BuyingTime Daily - March 12, 2026
Trademark drama, a Vera Wang–Citizen collab, bold new releases, and a Ming moonphase at auction—today’s watch universe spans law, luxury, and fresh design.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
The watch world continues to prove that timekeeping is never just about telling the time. It is also about trademarks, billionaires, fashion collaborations, and the endless debate about what truly defines horological prestige. Today’s headlines begin with a small but notable legal skirmish as Astor+Banks has temporarily halted assembly and shipping of its Terra Scout field watch after Scout Motors raised concerns over the use of the word “Scout.” The Chicago-based watch brand argues that electric vehicles and wristwatches are hardly competing product categories, but the trademark dispute has still been enough to pause fulfillment. In the meantime, the company says it is focusing on keeping customers informed and offering refunds to anyone who prefers not to wait while the lawyers sort it out.
In more collaborative news, Citizen is taking a very different route by teaming up with fashion designer Vera Wang on a 24-watch collection slated for Spring 2027. The project arrives as Citizen celebrates the 50th anniversary of its Eco-Drive technology and signals a deeper push into the fashion and women’s watch categories. Rather than a simple branding exercise, Wang is expected to have meaningful design input, blending her minimalist aesthetic with the practicality of light-powered movements that never need a battery swap.
A pair of thoughtful features round out the industry conversation today. One takes readers back into the golden age of British chronometer making with a look at Charles Frodsham, the 19th-century horologist whose precision instruments helped guide ships across oceans when navigation depended on accuracy measured in seconds. Another piece looks squarely at the modern era, dissecting the increasingly serious watch collection of tech billionaire Mark Zuckerberg. Once known for the hoodie-and-T-shirt uniform, Zuckerberg has recently been spotted wearing increasingly complicated and expensive pieces, suggesting that watches have quietly become part of his evolving public image.
There’s also a healthy dose of mechanical philosophy in the mix. An editor’s column examines five tourbillon watches released over the past year that actually push the complication forward rather than simply using it as luxury decoration. Meanwhile, a lively opinion piece argues that Jaeger-LeCoultre occupies a strange middle ground between the status magnetism of Rolex and the prestige aura of Patek Philippe, raising the question of whether the brand should reposition itself as the intellectual watchmaker for collectors who care more about craft than hype. Speaking of Patek Philippe, another commentary suggests the Geneva giant should finally enter the certified pre-owned market, following the example set by Rolex, in order to maintain tighter control over how its watches circulate in the secondary ecosystem.
New watch releases today cover a wide spectrum of price and personality. The BND Dive Watch MK.3 refines Vincent Bonnaud’s tool-watch concept with 300 meters of water resistance and a rugged Seiko NH38A movement, arriving in three limited colorways. Eska introduces the Amphibian 250 Destro, a left-hand-friendly diver with the crown at nine o’clock and powered by a Sellita SW200. Kollokium pushes design boundaries again with its Projekt 02 Variant B, featuring a dramatic layered dial built from dozens of stacked plates that create a topographic gradient from grey to deep black. Luminox updates its Navy SEAL chronograph with a sand-colored desert palette while retaining its signature tritium tube illumination. And Nivada Grenchen brings a little cosmic flair to the integrated sports watch category with the F77 MKII, pairing a compact 38mm case with an aventurine dial that resembles a star-filled night sky.
On the review front, one of the more serious pieces of haute horlogerie to cross the desk recently gets the hands-on treatment. The Louis Vuitton Escale Minute Repeater demonstrates how the fashion house’s watch division has quietly evolved into a legitimate high-complication player, combining a minute repeater with jump hours, retrograde minutes, and elaborate guilloché finishing. With a price around $350,000, it is not exactly an impulse purchase—but it is a reminder that the brand’s La Fabrique du Temps manufacture has ambitions well beyond accessories.
Elsewhere in the watch universe, travel watches are getting their moment with a roundup highlighting everything from budget GMTs to elaborate worldtimers designed for collectors constantly crossing time zones. And with Watches and Wonders only weeks away, speculation is already heating up around what Tudor might unveil for its 100th anniversary year. Predictions include a possible revival of the Oysterdate Big Block chronograph, new colors for the Black Bay family, and perhaps an even more technical Pelagos variant.
Events are also beginning to stack up on the calendar. Oracle Time hosted a member evening with Studio Underd0g in London celebrating the brand’s “Assembled in Britain” campaign, while a new independent watch fair called Chronopolis has announced plans for its first edition in Geneva this April. The show promises a more open and design-focused format, partnering with Chrono24 and inviting collectors directly into the conversation.
For those who prefer to watch rather than read, today’s videos include a fascinating breakdown of Christopher Ward’s business model explaining how a roughly three-times markup can still produce strong value for customers, a detailed hands-on look at the Atelier Wen Inflection, a review of a surprisingly accurate neo-vintage bargain watch, and a speculative deep dive into what Rolex might do next year.
Finally, a quick look at the auction corner. Yesterday’s featured lot, the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Chronograph in white gold with a smoked blue dial, drew bidding up to $21,750 but ultimately failed to meet its reserve—leaving the door open for a post-auction offer. Today’s spotlight shifts to a very different piece: the 2023 Ming 37.05 Series 2 Moonphase. With its layered celestial dial and limited run of 500 pieces, the watch captures everything collectors enjoy about modern independents—distinctive design, thoughtful mechanics, and just enough scarcity to keep the secondary market interesting. With the auction closing today at 12:09 p.m. EDT and the current bid hovering just over $3,000, it will be worth watching whether the final hammer lands closer to the typical mid-$4,000 range seen for examples of this reference.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
Terra Scout watch orders halted amid Scout Motors trademark dispute
Astor+Banks has paused assembly and shipping of its Terra Scout field watch after Scout Motors raised a trademark dispute over the “Scout” name. The Terra Scout was conceived as a modern field watch influenced by the founder’s service experience and had already generated strong interest from collectors. Astor+Banks argues the two brands operate in different categories—electric vehicles versus watches—but the dispute has still disrupted fulfillment. The company says it is prioritizing customer care, providing updates to pre-order customers and offering full refunds for anyone who chooses to cancel while the situation unfolds.
Citizen Partners With Vera Wang for spring 2027 collection
Citizen has partnered with fashion designer Vera Wang to launch a 24-watch collection in Spring 2027, blending Wang’s aesthetic with Citizen’s watchmaking expertise. The collaboration also marks the 50th anniversary of Eco-Drive technology, emphasizing light-powered convenience without battery changes. Rather than a simple licensing deal, the partnership is positioned as a close creative collaboration, with Wang significantly shaping the designs. The lineup will include both ready-to-wear styles for men and women and jewelry-inspired designs aimed at women, aligning with Citizen’s growing women’s audience.
Feature Time
The Greatest Horologists Of Their Time: Charles Frodsham (1810-1871)
This feature profiles Charles Frodsham, one of the most respected names in 19th-century British horology, tracing his rise from a watchmaking family background to a leading chronometer maker. It highlights how his precision instruments proved themselves in rigorous observatory trials and became essential tools for navigation in an era when accuracy at sea mattered enormously. The piece also covers the official recognition he earned through high-profile appointments and his broader influence as a leader within Britain’s horological institutions.
Mark Zuckerberg’s Watch Collection: A Closer Look at The Tech Billionaire’s Timepieces
This article examines Mark Zuckerberg’s recent shift into high-end collecting and uses his growing lineup to explore what he’s choosing—and why it matters. It runs through notable pieces across major maisons and independents, emphasizing escalating complexity, rarity, and price as his collection expands. Along the way, it frames the watches as part of a broader image evolution, showing how he’s moved from minimalist uniform to a more overt “billionaire lifestyle,” with watches as a centerpiece.
From the Editor: Five Tourbillons That Defined the Past Twelve Months. Each One Answered a Different Question
This editorial argues that while the tourbillon is often overused as a luxury buzzword, a small number of recent examples stand out for real mechanical ambition rather than decoration. It curates five watches from the past year that the author believes push the complication forward in distinct ways, spanning radically different design philosophies and extremes of execution. The point isn’t commonality, but range—showing how the “best” tourbillons can represent engineering limits, aesthetic conviction, and independent creative intent all at once.
The Latest Time
BND
Meet The Third Iteration Of The BND Dive Watch
The BND Dive Watch MK. 3 is the latest refinement of Vincent Bonnaud’s dive-watch line, with practical upgrades aimed at everyday wear and real tool-watch use. It switches to the Seiko NH38A movement and boosts water resistance to 300 meters thanks to a redesigned crown. The watch also moves to an FKM rubber strap and comes in three color options (gray, white, and khaki green), with each version limited to 100 pieces. Price is about $693.
Eska
The new Eska Amphibian 250 Destro
The Eska Amphibian 250 Destro is a vintage-inspired diver built around a 40mm steel case, a unidirectional bezel, and 250 meters of water resistance. Its “destro” layout puts the crown at 9 o’clock for better comfort (especially for left-handed wearers) while giving the watch a distinctive profile. Inside is the Sellita SW200 automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve, and the watch ships with both a Tropic-style strap and an additional NATO-style strap. Price is about $983 (before taxes).
Kollokium
Kollokium Projekt 02 Variant B, Deeper and Darker Across 9 Layers
Kollokium’s Projekt 02 Variant B centers on a striking topographical dial built from 67 stacked plates, fading from grey to black across nine layers for a strong sense of depth. The 39.5mm die-cast 316L steel case is paired with 50m water resistance and a La Joux-Perret G101 movement with a 68-hour power reserve. It’s limited to 299 pieces and comes on an anthracite elastic textile strap. Price is about $4,700 (excluding VAT).
Luminox
Luminox Updates Its Navy SEAL Chronograph Watch With a Desert-Ready Colorway
This Navy SEAL Chronograph XS.3587 adds a desert-ready sand-and-black palette to Luminox’s rugged, tactical playbook. The CARBONOX case keeps weight low (around 80g) even with a large 45mm footprint, and the tritium tubes provide constant glow for up to 25 years without charging. It runs on a Swiss Ronda 5030.D quartz chronograph movement and is rated to 200 meters of water resistance. Price is $845.
Nivada Grenchen
Nivada Grenchen F77 MKII
The Nivada Grenchen F77 MKII updates the integrated-bracelet sports watch formula with a Dark Blue Aventurine dial meant to evoke a starry night sky. It keeps the familiar silhouette but adds meaningful refinements like a slimmer 38mm steel case, a redesigned bracelet for comfort, and a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. Power comes from the Soprod P024 automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve, and water resistance is rated to 100 meters. Price is $1,360.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Hands-On: The Louis Vuitton Escale Minute Repeater
The Louis Vuitton Escale Minute Repeater combines high-complication watchmaking with a design language that nods to the brand’s trunkmaking heritage. Released in January 2026, it features a grey flammé guilloché dial, a retrograde minutes track, and a prominent jump-hour display, all housed in a 40mm rose gold case with an impressive 50 meters of water resistance. Its minute repeater is activated by a discreet slider, keeping the case profile clean while delivering a feature traditionally associated with far more traditional designs. Powered by a movement from La Fabrique du Temps, it’s positioned as a serious horological statement at $350,000.
Comparing Time
20 of the Best Travel Watches to Buy Right Now for Every Budget
This roundup breaks travel watches into two main types—GMT/dual-time pieces for quickly tracking a second timezone, and worldtimers that display many (or all) timezones at once on the dial. It then surveys standout options across a wide range of styles and price points, from affordable microbrand GMTs to high-end luxury worldtimers. The guide emphasizes practical considerations like legibility, water resistance, and movement choice, while also acknowledging that “travel” can mean anything from scuba trips to business flights and even purely style-driven picks. The result is a broad, budget-spanning list meant to help readers find a travel-ready watch that matches how they actually move through time zones.
Watches and Wonders 2026
Tudor Predictions 2026 - The New Models Tudor Might Launch at Watches and Wonders 2026
This piece lays out predictions for what Tudor could unveil at Watches and Wonders 2026, a particularly important year as the brand marks its 100th anniversary. It suggests Tudor may revive the Oysterdate Big Block Chronograph for its 50th anniversary and potentially introduce a new integrated chronograph movement. Other likely updates include a Black Bay 58 with a blue dial, expanded Black Bay 54 color options (including bright pink and green), and a more technical Pelagos Ultra Dark in black DLC-coated titanium. The article also floats the idea of a steel-and-gold Black Bay 54 variant to add a more luxurious option while keeping the core design language intact.
Opinion Time
Jaeger-LeCoultre Is Trapped Between Status (Rolex) And Prestige (Patek Philippe)
This opinion argues that Jaeger-LeCoultre sits in an awkward middle ground: admired for technical mastery and craftsmanship, but not rewarded with the same status signaling as Rolex or the same prestige cachet as Patek Philippe. It suggests that even the iconic Reverso doesn’t naturally fit today’s hype-driven “it watch” mold, while sportier lines like the Polaris don’t fully capture the aspirational luxury-sports formula either. The proposed path forward is for JLC to sharpen its identity by streamlining the catalog and more clearly communicating its creative and technical strengths, positioning the brand as the “intellectual” choice in haute horlogerie. The piece also recommends leaning into culture-building—art collaborations and immersive exhibitions—to make JLC feel more like a creator of cultural objects than just products.
Patek Philippe should enter certified pre-owned market
This commentary makes the case that Patek Philippe is leaving money and brand control on the table by staying out of the fast-growing certified pre-owned market. It argues that an unregulated secondary market increases the risk of counterfeits and poorly maintained watches circulating under the Patek name, potentially harming the brand’s reputation. The article points to Rolex’s certified pre-owned program as proof that a major brand can create trust, enforce quality standards, and generate meaningful revenue in this channel. It concludes that investing in the servicing and dealer infrastructure needed for a certified program could both protect Patek’s legacy and help train more watchmakers for the long term.
Event Time
Oracle Time Member’s Evening with Studio Underd0g
This recap covers an Oracle Time members event hosted with Studio Underd0g on the eve of British Watchmakers’ Day, held at Shoreditch’s Curve Club. The night centered on Studio Underd0g’s “Assembled in Britain” campaign, with the campaign video featured prominently and a conversation about why bringing watch assembly back to Britain matters. Attendees also got hands-on time with the campaign’s headline piece, the D0ghouse limited edition “Guava,” alongside themed cocktails, canapés, and plenty of watch talk. The event doubled as an early chance for guests to sign up for Studio Underd0g’s British Watchmakers’ Day hand-setting experience.
Chronopolis reveals key plans ahead of inaugural 2026 edition in Geneva
Chronopolis is set to launch a new indie watch fair in Geneva from April 14–18, 2026, positioning itself as a more design-led, open, and community-focused alternative to traditional fair formats. Partnering with Chrono24, the event aims to emphasize accessibility in watch collecting while creating a distinctive atmosphere at Les Halles de l’Île for the 20 exhibiting brands. The program is structured with quieter morning hours for media and retailers, then more public-facing afternoons, plus daily happy hours designed to encourage networking and conversation. A major centerpiece is the Chronopolis Party on April 16, inviting the broader public to join brands, collectors, and industry figures for an evening celebration.
Watching Time - Videos
Christopher Ward’s 3X Markup Explained: The Business Model Behind the Growth - YouTube - Collective Horology
This video breaks down Christopher Ward’s pricing approach and why a roughly 3X markup can be more than simple profit-taking. It frames the markup as a deliberate strategy that supports growth while keeping quality and customer value central to the brand’s positioning. The discussion highlights how this model can fund product development and marketing, strengthening the brand’s market presence over time. Overall, it’s a look at how disciplined pricing and operations can help a watch brand scale without abandoning the “affordable luxury” lane.
Hands on: Atelier Wen Inflection - YouTube - This Watch, That Watch
This hands-on video gives a detailed look at the Atelier Wen Inflection, focusing on design, craftsmanship, and the specific elements that make the watch stand out visually. It walks through the watch’s construction and mechanics in a way that emphasizes the brand’s quality ambitions and attention to finishing. The broader takeaway is how Atelier Wen blends traditional watchmaking cues with modern design decisions to carve out a distinctive niche. It’s positioned to help both enthusiasts and casual viewers understand what’s compelling about the Inflection beyond photos.
This Neo-Vintage Bargain Offers Award Winning Design and Ultra High Accuracy - YouTube - WatchChris
This video spotlights a neo-vintage style watch positioned as a value pick that doesn’t sacrifice performance for looks. It emphasizes design elements that create the vintage-inspired appeal while also underscoring accuracy as a core selling point. The presentation focuses on the features and build choices that differentiate it from typical budget options, aiming at viewers who want style plus measurable capability. Overall, it’s a case for why some modern “bargain” watches can still deliver serious design and precision.
Rolex Predictions 2026 - NEW Pepsi GMT - YouTube - Adrian Barker
This video explores predictions for Rolex’s 2026 direction, with special focus on the possibility of a new Pepsi GMT. It discusses the design and specification expectations that collectors and enthusiasts are watching for, and why such a release would matter in the broader Rolex ecosystem. Beyond one model, it touches on how changing tastes and market dynamics shape what Rolex might choose to do next. The result is a forward-looking breakdown of what could drive demand and discussion in the coming year.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com
[Wednesday’s auction watch, the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Chronograph White Gold / Smoked Blue / Rubber (26393BC.OO.A002KB.01) - was bid to $21,750 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2023 Ming 37.05 Series 2 Moonphase 38 Steel / Sunray brushed Anthracite Metal / Strap - Limited to 500 Pieces (37.05 Series 2)
Auction Report: “Moonlight Limited: The Ming 37.05 Series 2 Moonphase”
Independent watchmaking continues to carve out its own corner of the market, and few brands have ridden that wave quite as effectively as Ming. Founded by photographer-turned-watch designer Ming Thein, the brand has built a cult following among collectors who appreciate distinctive design, limited production runs, and thoughtfully reworked movements. The 37-series has been central to that rise, and the Ming 37.05 Series 2 Moonphase, introduced in 2023, represents one of the most visually poetic pieces in the lineup.
This particular watch, limited to just 500 examples, features a 38mm stainless steel case with complex compound curves and alternating polished and brushed finishing. Despite its relatively compact diameter, the wide dial opening allows the watch to wear larger on the wrist, giving it a strong presence without sacrificing comfort. Domed sapphire crystals front and back add visual depth and help frame one of Ming’s signature design tricks: a multi-layered dial architecture that plays with transparency, lume, and reflection.
The dial itself is where this watch really earns its reputation. The anthracite sunray-brushed metal base is punctured with star-shaped openings that interact with the luminous moonphase display beneath, creating a shifting celestial effect as the moon progresses. Above this sits a sapphire layer etched with minute markers and filled with HyCeram lume, giving the watch a striking three-dimensional “night sky” appearance that changes dramatically depending on lighting conditions.
Powering the watch is the manual-winding Sellita for Ming SW288.M1, a heavily reworked version of the SW288-1 with skeletonized anthracite bridges and contrasting rhodium finishing visible through the display caseback. The movement runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour and delivers about 38–40 hours of power reserve. It provides central hours and minutes along with both a quick-set moonphase and a date display, combining a classical complication with a distinctly modern aesthetic.
When the Series 2 debuted in 2023, the retail price was about CHF 4,950 and the run of 500 pieces sold quickly, reinforcing Ming’s reputation for tightly controlled production and strong collector demand. In the secondary market today, examples of the broader 37.05 model family typically trade roughly between $3,300 and $5,700 depending on condition, with many examples clustering around the mid-$4,000 range.
The example in this auction appears to be in very strong condition. The dial, hands, and crystal are described as excellent, with only minor signs of wear on the case and bezel. Importantly, the strap is unworn and the watch includes its original box, papers, folio, and literature—details that matter to collectors of modern independents, where completeness often influences resale value as much as condition.
For collectors who enjoy the design language of independent watchmaking but still want something wearable and mechanically straightforward, the 37.05 Series 2 sits in a very appealing middle ground. It offers a recognizable Ming aesthetic, a practical size, and the romantic charm of a moonphase complication, all wrapped in a limited edition that is unlikely to appear in large numbers on the secondary market.
With the auction closing today at 12:09 p.m. EDT, this piece should draw attention from collectors who missed the original release or who want to add a distinctive independent watch to their rotation. If bidding remains near the typical secondary-market range, it could represent a fairly reasonable entry point into the world of Ming—especially for a watch that literally puts the stars on your wrist.
Current bid: $3,013