BuyingTime Daily - March 11, 2026
Rolex resale debate heats up, watch stocks rally on Middle East optimism, and new releases from Junghans, Mido, Otsuka Lotec, and Shinola keep the watch world ticking.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe for March 11, 2026, arrives with a reminder that the luxury watch market—like the movements inside the watches themselves—rarely stops ticking, even when geopolitics and market anxiety threaten to slow things down. The latest data suggests that the world’s most famous crown continues to dominate both new and pre-owned sales channels. Roughly one in five Rolex purchases in 2025 occurred on the secondary market, pushing combined new and pre-owned sales to an estimated $26.4 billion. While some analysts worry that the booming resale market could siphon demand from authorized dealers, the reality on the ground appears far less dramatic. Waiting lists remain stubbornly long, collectors still crave the AD relationship, and the secondary market seems to function less like a cannibal and more like a pressure-release valve for the brand’s relentless demand.
The financial markets also offered a small sigh of relief for the industry after President Trump declared the Iran conflict “very complete,” a phrase that investors apparently interpreted as good news. Good luck on believing that. Luxury watch stocks rallied on the announcement, with Swatch Group, Richemont, and LVMH all seeing gains as traders bet that stability in the Middle East—particularly in the UAE and broader Gulf region—will keep the luxury pipeline flowing. Given the region’s importance as a retail powerhouse for Swiss watches, any sign that shopping malls in Dubai and Doha will remain open and busy is treated as a positive signal for the entire sector.
On the editorial side of the watch world, the latest feature dives into the enduring gravitational pull of Audemars Piguet and the Royal Oak. A new round of first-semester novelties prompted renewed debate over whether the Royal Oak is simply a luxury status object or something closer to a cultural artifact. After a visit to AP House in New York, the author makes the case that Gérald Genta’s iconic design still carries emotional and historical weight far beyond its price tag. The brand’s latest releases push in multiple directions at once—from oversized Offshore pieces to smaller jewelry-leaning executions—while continuing to experiment with materials such as BMG cases and decorative dials like malachite.
Meanwhile, the affordable end of the market continues to experiment with sustainability and accessible design. Timex is drawing attention with the Expedition Freedive Solar, a $159 diver-style watch built using recycled ocean-bound plastic for both case and strap. Solar power and outdoors-ready styling reinforce the Expedition identity, though reviewers note that more serious water resistance and a screw-down crown would make the watch an even stronger tool for actual aquatic adventures.
New releases today cover a wide range of price points and personalities. Junghans makes a serious entry into the dive watch arena with its new Aquaris line, including the 500-meter Aquaris Diver and the more casual Aquaris Sport models arriving in May. Mido updates its dependable Commander line with the new Commander Datoday, a clean 40 mm automatic powered by the Calibre 80 with its now-familiar 80-hour power reserve. In Japan, independent-leaning Otsuka Lotec continues its instrument-inspired design language with the No.8 jumping-hour watch, pairing a retrograde minute display with a Miyota-based movement enhanced by an in-house module. Over in Detroit, Shinola is experimenting with color and contemporary styling in its new Detrola Art Series, a $450 quartz piece that leans into a playful, retro-futuristic aesthetic.
For those interested in hands-on impressions, the review spotlight today falls on the Lorca Model No. 2 Chronograph. The vintage-proportioned 37 mm chronograph uses a manually wound Sellita SW510 M movement and offers practical features such as 100 meters of water resistance and a comfortable beads-of-rice bracelet. The watch channels mid-century chronograph aesthetics while remaining thoroughly modern in construction, positioning it as an appealing option for collectors who prefer smaller case sizes and mechanical purity.
Comparison features continue to explore the practical side of collecting. One roundup looks at watches suitable for corporate office environments, highlighting models from brands like Orient, Seiko, Casio, Tissot, Grand Seiko, and Nomos that balance professionalism with daily wearability. Another article focuses on value picks that outperform their price tags, ranging from the Lorier Neptune and Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto to the Longines Spirit, a vintage Rolex Datejust, and the budget-friendly Citizen Tsuyosa. Finally, a deep dive into sub-€5,000 Omega Speedmaster references shows how collectors can still enter the Speedmaster universe without crossing the five-figure threshold, with models like the Broad Arrow, the Mk40, the Reduced, and the classic Professional 3570.50 leading the list.
Video content today includes a technical showcase of the Grand Planetarium Eccentric Si14 created by Christiaan van der Klaauw in collaboration with Revolution, offering a closer look at one of the more ambitious astronomical wristwatches currently being discussed in enthusiast circles. Another video from The Time Teller delivers a more opinionated take on what the host considers the weakest segment of the watch market, adding a little controversy and debate to the day’s viewing list.
Podcast listeners can also check out the latest episode of Fratello On Air, which examines the complicated moment when a beloved cult watch brand suddenly becomes mainstream. The hosts explore the double-edged sword of popularity—greater visibility and higher values on one hand, but also rising prices, tighter supply, and the occasional wave of inexperienced sellers on the other.
Finally, over in the auction corner, Tuesday’s Patek Philippe Annual Calendar ref. 5205R-011 in rose gold with an olive dial drew bids up to $43,500 but failed to meet its reserve, leaving the door open for a post-auction negotiation. Today’s featured auction piece, however, is the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Chronograph in white gold with its dramatic smoked blue dial. Powered by the in-house Calibre 4401 flyback chronograph movement, the 41 mm watch represents one of the technically strongest entries in the Code 11.59 lineup. With the current bid sitting at $15,250 and the hammer scheduled for 1:18 p.m. EDT, the market is about to decide whether this once-controversial collection has quietly become one of the more interesting modern values in high horology.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
Are second hand Rolex sales cannibalising new business?
In 2025, one-fifth of all Rolex purchases happened on the secondary market, helping drive combined new-and-used Rolex sales to an estimated $26.4 billion. Despite concerns that this could cannibalize new-watch demand, Rolex continues to see strong interest and persistent waiting lists for many models. While some references like the Sea-Dweller and Explorer are reportedly available at discounts pre-owned, many collectors still prioritize buying new through authorized dealers because of the long-term value of those relationships. In contrast, other brands’ secondary markets can have a more direct effect on new sales, but Rolex’s demand and loyalty suggest meaningful cannibalization is unlikely.
Luxury watch stocks rebound on hopes of Iran war ending
Luxury watch stocks rebounded after President Trump said the Iran war is “very complete,” lifting market sentiment across the sector. Shares of Swatch Group, Richemont, and LVMH rose notably, reflecting renewed confidence among investors. The piece highlights the Middle East—especially the UAE—as a critical market for Swiss watchmakers, with large import volumes and strong recent sales that make regional stability especially important. Even after a conflict-driven dip, the luxury watch sector showed resilience, with broader recovery across global markets and gains among several Japanese watch companies as well.
Feature Time
A Case for the Royal Oak and Other Hot Takes on Audemars Piguet’s First Semester Novelties
The author reflects on a personal, long-running admiration for Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak, framed by their career in watch journalism and an appreciation for Gérald Genta’s design legacy. After a visit to AP House in New York City, they assess the brand’s latest releases and push back on the idea that the Royal Oak is only a status symbol, arguing instead for its emotional and cultural resonance. The roundup touches on the breadth of the new lineup, from oversized Offshore models to smaller sizes intended to broaden appeal. It also calls out notable material and design choices, including BMG cases and more jewelry-leaning executions like malachite dials and mini gold models.
This Affordable Timex Is Made From Recycled Ocean Waste | Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Timex Expedition Freedive Solar is positioned as a budget-friendly, eco-conscious option at $159, with a 46mm case and strap made from recycled ocean-bound plastic. It blends dive-watch cues with everyday practicality, including a unidirectional rotating bezel, 50 meters of water resistance, and solar power for low-maintenance operation. The lightweight, sustainable materials and green-toned design are part of the appeal, reinforcing the outdoorsy Expedition identity. The review notes potential durability upgrades—especially a screw-down crown and higher water resistance—to better match more demanding use.
The Latest Time
Junghans
Junghans Gets Serious About Diving with the new Aquaris Series
Junghans makes a major dive-watch push with its new Aquaris line, introducing Aquaris Diver and Aquaris Sport models in multiple colorways. The Aquaris Diver pairs a rugged 46.9mm steel case with a matte dark grey dial, a unidirectional bezel, and a serious 500m water resistance rating. The Aquaris Sport keeps the same core specs but shifts to a more casual look with sunray-brushed dials in red or blue. Pricing is about $3,243 (Aquaris Diver, €2,790) and $3,127 (Aquaris Sport, €2,690), and the collection is slated to arrive in May 2026.
Mido
The Sensible New Mido Commander Datoday
Mido updates its long-running Commander line with the new Commander Datoday, a versatile 40mm stainless steel watch designed to work equally well in office or casual settings. The dial gets a clean, sunray-brushed finish with applied markers and a practical day-date display, offered across four color options including a rose-gold PVD version with a dark green dial. Inside is the Mido Calibre 80 automatic movement, delivering an 80-hour power reserve along with 50m water resistance on a three-link bracelet. Prices are about $1,151 for the steel versions (€990) and $1,337 for the PVD gold edition (€1,150).
Otsuka Lotec
Otsuka Lotec No.8 Jumping Hour and Retrograde Minute
Otsuka Lotec’s No.8 is a limited-edition, industrial-leaning design featuring a jumping hour display paired with a retrograde minute indication for a more mechanical, “instrument-like” readout. Designed by Jiro Katayama, it uses a Miyota 90S5 automatic base movement enhanced by an in-house module to deliver the unusual time display. The watch is housed in a rectangular, straight-grained steel case and comes on a black rubber strap, reinforcing its modern utilitarian vibe. Retail price is about $6,247 (JPY 990,000), and availability is handled via a raffle opening March 23, 2026.
Shinola
At $450, The New Shinola Detrola Art Series Is Worth a Closer Look
Shinola’s Detrola Art Series puts a fresh spin on the Detrola line with minimalist, colorful indices set against a matte center, creating a retro-futuristic look that stands apart from the brand’s more traditional styles. The 41mm case combines stainless steel with TR90 resin, and the watch runs on a Swiss-made Argonite 705 quartz movement under a flat sapphire crystal. The piece argues that, regardless of Shinola’s mixed reputation among collectors, this design direction feels more confident and contemporary. The watch is priced at $450 and is available now.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Lorca Model No. 2 Chronograph
The Lorca Model No. 2 Chronograph is a vintage-inspired chronograph that pairs classic proportions with modern build quality, featuring a 37mm 316L stainless steel case and a double-domed sapphire crystal. It’s offered with two dial choices: a “Golden Gray” that shifts warmly in the light, and a bright sunburst silver option for a cleaner look. Power comes from the manually wound Sellita SW510 M, delivering a 63-hour power reserve along with strong claimed accuracy. Priced at $2,750, it also brings real everyday usability with 100 meters of water resistance plus a supple beads-of-rice bracelet with micro-adjustment and drilled lugs for easy strap changes.
Comparing Time
12 Best Watches For Corporate Office Work: Hands-on Reviewed Picks
This roundup focuses on watches that fit a corporate office environment while still being practical for daily wear, balancing professional styling with comfort and durability. It highlights approachable staples like the Orient Bambino for dressier polish and the Seiko SRPE51 for a versatile office-to-weekend look. More feature-forward options like the Casio Oceanus T200 stand out for solar power and Bluetooth connectivity, while mainstream picks such as the Tissot PRX are positioned as adaptable “all-rounders.” The list also moves upmarket to pieces like Grand Seiko and Nomos, emphasizing legibility, refinement, and day-long wearability.
Better Than They Should Be: Five Top-Value Watches That Punch Above Their Weight
This article spotlights five watches that deliver outsized quality and appeal relative to their price, mixing modern value picks with one notable vintage option. The Lorier Neptune is framed as a strong entry point for vintage-inspired design at a reasonable cost, while Christopher Ward’s C1 Bel Canto is highlighted for bringing high-impact horological interest without traditional luxury pricing. Longines’ Spirit is praised for finishing and overall execution that feels more expensive than it is, and a vintage Rolex Datejust ref. 1601 is included for its enduring reliability and historical pull under a set budget. The Citizen Tsuyosa rounds things out as a sub-€300 option that still offers solid construction and an automatic movement, reinforcing the theme that “value” can mean different things across collecting.
The Best Affordable Omega Speedmasters Under €5,000
This comparison looks at Speedmaster options available under €5,000, framed as alternatives as new retail pricing climbs for the most in-demand references. It calls out the Speedmaster Broad Arrow 3594.50 for its nod to early Speedmaster styling, and the Speedmaster “Mk40” 3820.53 for its more colorful approach and added calendar complications. Other picks include the Speedmaster Reduced 3510.50 as a smaller, automatic-winding gateway into the line, alongside the classic Speedmaster Professional 3570.50 as a cornerstone model many collectors still target. The Speedmaster X-33 3290.50 is included as the more technical, astronaut-oriented choice, offering a very different take on what a Speedmaster can be.
Watching Time - Videos
Introducing The Grand Planetarium Eccentric Si14 (Silicium) | Christiaan van der Klaauw x Revolution - YouTube - Revolution Watch
This video spotlights the Grand Planetarium Eccentric Si14 (Silicium), a collaboration between Christiaan van der Klaauw and Revolution. It’s positioned as a showcase of the watch’s technical ambition and high-end craftsmanship, focusing on what makes the piece distinctive in the contemporary horology landscape. The production credits note the video was created by Michael Wolf and edited by Peter Wolf, aiming to give viewers a closer look at the design and functionality ahead of broader attention within the watch community.
This Is The Worst Segment of Watches... - YouTube - The Time Teller
This Time Teller video takes a critical look at a particular “segment” of watches the host argues is the weakest part of the market. It’s framed as commentary-driven analysis meant to challenge assumptions about which categories deserve attention and which are routinely overlooked or dismissed. The entry notes the video was created and edited by Michael Wolf and is published on Ghost, emphasizing its editorial stance and intent to spark debate among watch enthusiasts.
Talking Time - Podcasts
Fratello On Air: When A Cult Brand You Enjoy Goes Mainstream
This podcast episode examines what happens when a once-niche “cult” watch brand breaks into the mainstream and how that shift can change the collector experience. The hosts discuss the mix of excitement and frustration longtime fans can feel as attention grows—often bringing higher prices and more questions around originality and authenticity. They also touch on the practical downsides of hype cycles, including shrinking availability, serviceability concerns, and an influx of less-experienced sellers. Overall, the conversation balances the upside of broader recognition with the risks it can create for collectors trying to buy and maintain great vintage pieces.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com
[Tuesday’s auction watch, the 2023 Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Rose Gold / Olive Green (5205R-011) - was bid to $43,500 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Chronograph White Gold / Smoked Blue / Rubber (26393BC.OO.A002KB.01)
Auction Report: Blue Smoke and White Gold: The AP Code 11.59 Chronograph Faces the Gavel
There was a time not so long ago when Audemars Piguet only needed to utter two words—Royal Oak—and collectors would start hyperventilating. Then in 2019 the brand decided it needed something new, something round, something that didn’t rely on Gérald Genta’s legendary sketch from the 1970s. The result was the Code 11.59 collection, a watch family that debuted to a chorus of raised eyebrows and skeptical watch-forum commentary. But as often happens in the luxury watch world, time—and a few excellent movements—has a way of changing opinions.
Today’s auction piece, the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Chronograph ref. 26393BC.OO.A002KB.01, is one of the models that helped stabilize the line after that rocky introduction. Introduced with a smoked blue lacquer dial and an 18-carat white gold case, the watch delivers the kind of visual drama collectors expect from a modern Audemars Piguet piece. The dial fades from a bright electric blue at the center into a darker perimeter, a gradient effect that plays beautifully with the polished white-gold case and applied markers. Inside the 41 mm case beats the in-house Calibre 4401, a modern automatic chronograph movement featuring a column wheel and flyback function with a roughly 70-hour power reserve.
The movement matters here because it represents a major step forward for the brand. The 4401 is part of Audemars Piguet’s new generation of integrated chronograph calibers, designed and built in-house rather than relying on external architecture. For collectors who initially dismissed Code 11.59 as “the watch that wasn’t a Royal Oak,” the technical content underneath the dial has gradually forced a reconsideration.
Design-wise, the watch is more complicated than it first appears. What looks like a traditional round case is actually a three-dimensional structure with a distinctive octagonal mid-case hidden between the lugs, a subtle nod to the brand’s Royal Oak DNA. The domed sapphire crystal—famously difficult to manufacture—adds further visual depth, distorting the dial slightly at certain angles and giving the smoked blue surface a floating effect.
From a market perspective, Code 11.59 chronographs have lived an interesting life. Retail prices have hovered around the $50,000 range in precious metals, but the secondary market has been far less enthusiastic. Recent listings for the white-gold chronograph variant often fall roughly in the mid-$20,000 to low-$30,000 range depending on condition and completeness. In other words, this is one of those rare opportunities in modern watch collecting where you can buy an in-house chronograph from one of the “holy trinity” brands for roughly the price of a steel sports watch from certain competitors.
The example heading to auction today is described as pre-owned with excellent dial, hands, and crystal, along with minor wear on the case and scratches on the buckle. It comes with papers but no box, which is unlikely to trouble most buyers given that the watch itself remains the main attraction. The smoked blue dial, white gold construction, and rubber strap combination give the watch a surprisingly modern and sporty character compared with the dressier Code 11.59 pieces that debuted in 2019.
Collectors still debate whether the Code 11.59 will eventually become a sleeper hit or remain the slightly misunderstood cousin in the Audemars Piguet family tree. Either way, the chronograph models equipped with the Calibre 4401 are arguably the most compelling expressions of the concept: technically impressive, visually distinctive, and—at current market prices—relatively approachable for a brand operating at the very top of the luxury watch hierarchy.
With the auction ending today at 1:18 p.m. EDT on Wednesday, March 11, 2026, the real question is whether bidders see it as an overlooked gem or simply another Code 11.59 trying to escape the long shadow of the Royal Oak.
Either way, that smoked blue dial should make the final minutes interesting.
Current bid: $15,250