BuyingTime Daily - March 10, 2026
Middle East tensions, new releases from Glashütte Original, Kurono Tokyo and Vulcain, plus Royal Oak and Lebond reviews—today’s pulse of the global watch universe.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
The global watch conversation this morning begins with geopolitics, because even the world of mechanical timekeeping cannot fully escape the realities of international conflict. The ongoing tensions between Israel and Iran have raised concerns about potential disruptions to luxury watch retail across the Gulf region, which has become one of the most important export markets for Swiss watchmakers. So far, however, the situation has not materially slowed business. Shopping malls across Dubai, Doha, and Bahrain remain open and active, and retailers report that watch sales have continued largely uninterrupted. With the UAE now ranking among the most significant destinations for Swiss watch exports, the industry is watching developments carefully, but for the moment the mood among retailers appears calm and cautiously optimistic.
Meanwhile in Europe, the watch world is paying closer attention to Germany’s Inhorgenta Munich jewelry fair, which continues its evolution into a more meaningful platform for watch brands. Traditionally known for jewelry and accessible timepieces, the event is now attracting a growing number of independent and high-end watchmakers. With support from organizations like the Fondation Haute Horlogerie, the fair is positioning itself as a place where retailers and collectors can meet brands directly, explore craftsmanship through workshops, and deepen their understanding of mechanical watchmaking. In a market where brands are increasingly searching for new ways to reach customers, Inhorgenta is quietly becoming a strategic business hub.
Another positive sign for the industry comes in the form of recognition and leadership. The newly released Women in Watches List 2026 highlights twelve influential figures helping reshape the American watch landscape across marketing, retail, journalism, education, and independent watchmaking. The initiative reflects a broader shift within the industry as new voices and perspectives expand the collector community and help guide brand storytelling, retail strategy, and community engagement in a field historically dominated by men.
On the feature front, Australian tennis star Alex de Minaur offers a glimpse into the increasingly visible overlap between professional sport and watch collecting. Currently ranked sixth in the world, de Minaur traces his interest in watches back to an appreciation for mechanical craftsmanship sparked by classic cars. His on-court companion has been the Gerald Charles Maestro GC Sport Tennis, a watch he says combines the comfort, durability, and versatility he values when competing at events like the Australian Open. Elsewhere in the collector storytelling department, a thoughtful piece about rediscovering a vintage Seiko 6138 “UFO” chronograph serves as a reminder that vintage watch collecting is often as much about patience and humility as it is about finding the right reference.
New watch releases today span everything from elegant moonphases to experimental dive designs. Glashütte Original introduces the Serenade Luna Skyline Blue, a refined 32.5mm watch featuring a light-blue mother-of-pearl dial and a distinctive moonphase display paired with the brand’s in-house automatic caliber 35. As tipped last week, Kurono Tokyo takes a more unconventional approach with its new “Diver’s,” a clever two-part design that allows a smaller watch to nest inside a larger dive case, delivering both dress-watch aesthetics and 300-meter dive capability in a single concept. Meanwhile Vulcain leans into cosmic materials with its Skindiver Nautique Meteorite, a 100-piece limited edition that combines a classic 38mm skin-diver format with a dial cut from Muonionalusta meteorite, ensuring every piece carries a unique natural pattern.
There are also several noteworthy watches getting hands-on treatment in the review world. Audemars Piguet continues to flex its technical muscle with a Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked in titanium paired with polished palladium bulk metallic glass accents, creating one of the most visually striking skeletonized Royal Oaks in recent memory. Meanwhile the young brand Lebond pushes design boundaries with its Attraction series, translating Antoni Gaudí’s unrealized Hotel Attraction architecture into an unusual rotating-disc time display housed in a lightweight titanium case.
Beyond the product launches, the industry continues wrestling with rising prices. An editorial circulating today examines how the combined pressures of higher gold costs, a strong Swiss franc, and tariffs are pushing brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet toward further price increases. While these companies remain among the strongest names in watchmaking, higher retail prices are nudging some collectors toward the secondary market, potentially accelerating a broader shakeout where only the most desirable brands maintain momentum.
In the event calendar, the Horological Society of New York is preparing for its 160th Anniversary Gala on March 21 at the Plaza Hotel, where Sotheby’s will present a charity auction supporting watchmaking education programs. And across the Atlantic, British Watchmakers’ Day continues to show how vibrant the collector community remains, with enthusiasts showing off everything from vintage Breitling chronographs to colorful modern Tudor pieces.
For those looking to spend some time on watch videos today, there’s plenty to choose from. Britt Pearce explores why vintage watches continue to captivate collectors, Andrew Morgan examines why more watch brands may soon be up for sale, and another video takes a tour through Singapore’s billion-dollar luxury watch ecosystem hunting for elusive Rolex and Patek Philippe pieces. There’s also a lively ranking of Formula 1 watch sponsors and a deep dive into whether Omega may be losing some of its momentum in today’s competitive market.
Finally, in the auction corner of the watch world, yesterday’s white-gold Rolex Submariner “Smurf” failed to meet its reserve after bidding reached $34,755, leaving the door open for interested buyers to make an offer. Today’s featured lot is the 2023 Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5205R-011 with its rose-gold case and olive-green dial, currently sitting at $32,000 (the reserve in the neighborhood of $49k) as it approaches its closing time this afternoon. It’s a modern complication with classic pedigree and a splash of color—exactly the sort of watch that reminds collectors why mechanical timekeeping remains endlessly fascinating.
—Michael Wolf
News Time
Could Middle East War Wound Swiss Watch Industry?
Despite the ongoing Israel–Iran conflict, luxury watch retail across Gulf markets has largely continued without major disruption, with malls in places like Dubai, Bahrain, and Doha still active. Major retailers report no store closures, and the UAE in particular is projecting stability through visible leadership and strong security responses. With the UAE now a top export market for Swiss watches and the broader GCC representing a massive combined market, the industry is watching closely, but local confidence remains high.
A Push For More High Horology At Germany’s Top Jewelry Fair
Inhorgenta Munich is becoming a more important business hub for watch brands looking to reach new clients in a challenging market. While mass-market names still dominate the show floor, more independent and high-end brands are showing up, supported by groups like the Fondation Haute Horlogerie. The fair is positioning itself as a place where retailers can meet brands directly, discover new offerings, and deepen appreciation for craftsmanship through workshops and hands-on experiences.
Women in Watches List 2026
The Women in Watches List 2026 highlights twelve influential women reshaping the U.S. watch industry across leadership, marketing, retail, education, journalism, and independent watchmaking. The initiative focuses on recognizing changemakers in a field long dominated by men, emphasizing the range of roles driving the category forward. Honorees include senior executives and community builders whose work is expanding visibility, strengthening collector culture, and guiding major brand initiatives.
Feature Time
Alex de Minaur | INTERVIEW
Australian tennis star Alex de Minaur (ranked No. 6) discusses how he got into watches over the last few years, tracing the interest back to an appreciation for craftsmanship sparked by classic cars. He shares what it’s been like wearing the Gerald Charles Maestro GC Sport Tennis in competition, including the emotional boost of playing at the Australian Open. De Minaur also explains how his relationship with the brand began after meeting the CEO and learning the story behind Gérald Genta’s legacy, and what he values most in an ideal watch—versatility, comfort, and durability.
Finding My Seiko UFO 6138: A Collector’s Lesson In Humility, Patience, And Rediscovery
This story follows the author’s discovery of a vintage Seiko 6138-001X “UFO” in Seoul and the immediate thrill of bringing it home—followed by the reality of hidden issues. After an unsuccessful attempt to fix it, the watch sits untouched for years until the author finally sends it to a specialist for restoration. The experience becomes a broader lesson about knowing your limits with vintage pieces, embracing imperfections, and remembering that watches are meant to be worn, not stored away.
Four new Bremont watches, from the stealthy to the fun
Bremont debuts four releases that reflect a more adventurous design direction under CEO Davide Cerrato, spanning playful to purpose-built tool watch territory. Highlights include the Altitude MB Meteor “Felix The Cat,” which pairs a tough titanium build with an unexpected cartoon-forward dial, and the Terra Nova 38 Jumping Hour in Stealth Black, which modernizes trench-watch cues with a jumping-hour display. The lineup also includes a full-ceramic Supermarine in Polar White for extreme durability and a Terra Nova Jumping Hour Aventurine that elevates the tool-watch idea with a deep, dressier blue dial.
Interview Greubel Forsey CEO Michel Nydegger
Greubel Forsey CEO Michel Nydegger outlines the brand’s core belief that every watch must serve a purpose, backed by extensive innovation, patents, and in-house calibres. After the company returned to full private ownership, he shifted priorities away from scaling production and toward improving efficiency while preserving artisanal quality. Nydegger describes plans to introduce new movements annually and a move toward smaller, more wearable watches that better fit today’s collector preferences. Throughout, the brand’s independence remains central, with a sustainable growth model focused on craftsmanship over volume.
Time Machines: Meeting Your Horological Heroes With The 1972 Heuer Autavia 1163T ‘Siffert’ Watch
This piece explores the author’s long-running “grail watch” pursuit of the Heuer Autavia 1163T “Siffert,” a rare model tied to Swiss racing legend Jo Siffert and motorsport culture, including an appearance in the film “Le Mans.” Beyond the romance of the backstory, the article digs into the watch’s defining details, from the Calibre 12 movement to the late-production “Mark 6” dial and the tachymeter bezel’s quirks. The author also recounts the process of getting the watch restored and back into reliable working order. In the end, it becomes less a finish line than a rekindling of passion for collecting and the stories watches carry.
The Latest Time
Glashütte Original
The new Glashütte Original Serenade Luna Skyline Blue
Glashütte Original adds a refined new women’s model with the Serenade Luna Skyline Blue, pairing a 32.5mm polished stainless-steel case with a light-blue mother-of-pearl dial and a distinctive moonphase display at 6 o’clock. Diamond accents and a crescent-shaped moonphase frame emphasize the jewelry-like approach, while the in-house automatic calibre 35 brings serious watchmaking substance, including a 60-hour power reserve. Price is about $18,831 on bracelet (EUR 16,200) or about $17,436 on blue alligator strap (EUR 15,000), converted to USD at current rates.
Kurono Tokyo
The Kurono Tokyo ‘Diver’s’— A Two-in-One Reimagining Of Dive Watch Case Construction
Kurono Tokyo’s “Diver’s” proposes a clever two-in-one build: a smaller standalone watch sits inside a robust outer dive case, giving you dress-watch vibes when removed and serious diving capability when installed. The concept is designed to reduce the usual water-ingress risk associated with crown interfaces, while still delivering up to 300 meters of water resistance in dive configuration. Inside is a Miyota 90S5, with a clean white dial, blued cathedral hands, and a luminous dive bezel. The watch is priced at $2,700 and offered via an application process with priority for certified divers.
Vulcain
Vulcain Skindiver Nautique Meteorite
Vulcain’s Skindiver Nautique Meteorite is a 100-piece limited edition that pairs a classic 38mm skin-diver format with a Muonionalusta meteorite dial, so every watch has its own natural Widmanstätten pattern. The familiar dive-tool ingredients are here—200m water resistance, strong lume, and an ETA 2824 automatic movement with about a 38-hour power reserve—while the dial material provides the headline visual hook. Pricing starts at about $2,321 on rubber (CHF 1,790) or about $2,658 on steel bracelet (CHF 2,050), converted to USD at current rates.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Audemars Piguet
Hands-On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked | SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet introduces a new Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked that pairs a 39mm case in lightweight titanium with gleaming palladium bulk metallic glass (BMG) elements for an unusually mirror-like finish. Although not a limited edition, it’s expected to be extremely hard to get due to demand and the model’s standout presence. The design keeps the Jumbo’s famously slim proportions while maximizing movement visibility through an openworked, pared-back aesthetic. Inside is the Cal. 7124 with a 57-hour power reserve and high-end finishing details, including numerous polished inward angles.
Lebond
Hands-On With The Stylish Lebond Attraction
Lebond continues its architect-collaboration concept with the Attraction models, inspired by Antoni Gaudí’s unrealized Hotel Attraction project for New York. The watches translate the building’s overhead geometry into an unconventional time display that uses rotating hour discs paired with a minute hand for a fresh, design-led read of time. Built in lightweight Grade 5 titanium, they’re meant to feel modern and comfortable while staying closely tied to the architectural story. Two editions (Original and Dark) refine the color palette, and both are powered by the ETA 2892-A2 to keep the profile slim.
Editorial Time
Will price hikes harm Rolex, AP and the rest of the Swiss watch industry?
The Swiss watch industry is being squeezed by rising gold prices, a stronger Swiss franc, and tariffs that increase costs not only for watches but also for retail expansion and store build-outs. In response, major brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet have raised prices, with Rolex reportedly up sharply in the U.S. over the past year, while Patek Philippe has even adjusted pricing downward in the U.S. to reduce regional imbalances. At the same time, higher retail pricing is colliding with softer unit volumes, pushing more buyers to consider the secondary market when authorized dealer prices feel less competitive. The piece argues this could accelerate a shakeout where the strongest brands endure while weaker makers struggle to sustain demand at ever-higher price points.
Event Time
HSNY Announces Auction Lots for 160th Anniversary Gala, Presented by Sotheby’s & After-Party Presented by The Armoury — Horological Society of New York
HSNY has revealed the charity auction lots for its 160th Anniversary Gala on March 21, 2026 at The Plaza Hotel in New York City, with Sotheby’s presenting the auction and proceeds supporting HSNY education and financial-aid programs. While the gala dinner is sold out, after-party tickets are still available, featuring DJ Rich Medina and a chance to mingle with industry figures and fellow enthusiasts. The ten lots mix rare horological items and experiences, including items like a signed wall clock by F.P. Journe and a high-end omakase experience, underscoring HSNY’s mission and recent impact in funding students and watchmaking schools.
Watch Spotting at British Watchmakers’ Day 2026
British Watchmakers’ Day 2026 brought together collectors and enthusiasts showing off an eclectic range of watches, from playful modern independents to celebrated vintage pieces. Highlights included attention-grabbing combinations like a Tudor Black Bay Chrono Pink worn alongside a pink arm cast, plus a vintage Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and a classic Breitling Chronomat 808. The event also surfaced popular creative brands and collaborations—along with standout personal style moments—capturing the community energy and the wide range of tastes on display.
Watching Time - Videos
4 Reasons Vintage Watches Are Better Than New Ones - YouTube - Britt Pearce
Vintage watches often stand out for their distinct craftsmanship and character, reflecting design choices and finishing that can feel more personal than modern mass production. The video argues that each vintage piece tends to be more individual, with history and wear that add to its appeal rather than detract from it. It also highlights the investment angle, noting that certain vintage models can appreciate over time, especially when they’re scarce. Mechanical movements and aging materials like patina are framed as part of what makes vintage collecting uniquely satisfying.
Absolute Disaster - Why Watch Brands Are Up For Sale - YouTube - Andrew Morgan Watches | The Talking Hands
This video looks at why a growing number of watch brands are being put up for sale, tying it to shifting consumer preferences, economic pressure, and the ongoing impact of digital change on traditional players. It uses broader market patterns and examples to show how legacy brands can struggle when they don’t adapt quickly enough. The discussion also considers what new ownership could mean—either a turnaround through reinvestment and repositioning, or further decline if the underlying issues remain. The main takeaway is that agility and innovation are becoming essential for survival in today’s watch market.
BEST Affordable Watches That Look SUPER Expensive - YouTube - Chisholm Hunter
This video rounds up watches that aim to deliver a premium, high-end look while staying in a more affordable price range. It focuses on design cues—case finishing, dial styling, bracelet/strap choices, and overall proportions—that help a watch read “expensive” on the wrist. The goal is to help viewers spot strong value picks that can work across casual and dressier settings without sacrificing style. It’s positioned as a practical buying guide for anyone upgrading their wardrobe with a watch that punches above its price point.
F1’s Watch Sponsors Ranked. Brace Yourself. - YouTube - Doug’s Watches
The video ranks Formula 1’s watch sponsors and breaks down why some partnerships feel stronger than others based on brand fit, visibility, and perceived prestige. It explores how luxury watchmakers use F1’s global audience to reinforce performance and status-driven messaging. Along the way, it highlights how sponsorship is more than logo placement—brands leverage the sport to shape narrative, credibility, and desirability with fans. The broader theme is the tight alignment between F1’s glamour and the marketing goals of high-end watch companies.
Inside Singapore’s Billion Dollar Luxury Watch Market (Unexpected Rolex & Patek Finds) - YouTube
This video tours Singapore’s high-powered luxury watch scene, focusing on why the market has grown into a billion-dollar ecosystem for collectors and investors. It spotlights unexpected Rolex and Patek Philippe finds while illustrating what makes certain pieces so desirable in real-world shopping and trading environments. The story also touches on the economic and cultural factors that support demand, from affluent consumer behavior to the city’s strong retail landscape. Collector interviews and retailer perspectives help explain how rarity, condition, and credibility drive the thrill of the hunt.
Omega Slipping Fast | Here’s Why... - YouTube - Oisín O Malley
This video examines why Omega may be losing momentum, pointing to competitive pressures, shifting buyer tastes, and broader market dynamics that can quickly change brand perception. It frames the issue as a mix of strategy and timing—how product decisions, positioning, and consumer sentiment can either reinforce or erode desirability. The piece is presented as a focused breakdown meant to help viewers understand what’s driving the slide and what might reverse it. It’s also positioned as a premiere-ready, story-linked video designed to spark discussion around Omega’s current trajectory.
What Does More Money Actually Buy You in a Watch? - YouTube
This video tackles the core question of what higher prices actually get you in watchmaking, separating tangible upgrades from brand-driven perception. It discusses how materials, finishing quality, movement complexity, and manufacturing detail typically improve as you move upmarket. At the same time, it challenges viewers to consider how much of the premium is tied to prestige and status rather than daily-wear performance. The aim is to help buyers make smarter decisions by understanding what they’re truly paying for when they “invest” in a more expensive watch.
Talking Time - Podcasts
Scottish Watches Podcast #759 : International Women In Watches Day And Much More - Scottish Watches
Episode #759 features a conversation with Barbara, who shares highlights from recent travels to major watch events and what’s catching her attention across the industry. She recaps VicenzaOro in Italy, noting the increasing prominence of vintage watches and a new exhibition hall that’s set to expand the show’s importance in Europe. The discussion also looks ahead to Inhorgenta Munich as an increasingly meaningful platform for mid-tier and independent makers, alongside mentions of brands like Rado, Maurice Lacroix, Oris, and Citizen. A key theme is celebrating women in watchmaking and culture, including a ten-year milestone for Barbara’s What’s On Her Wrist project.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com
[Monday’s auction watch, the 2019 Rolex Submariner Date White Gold “Smurf” (116619LB-0001) - was bid to $34,755 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2023 Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Rose Gold / Olive Green (5205R-011)
Auction Report: Green With Complications: The Patek Philippe 5205R-011 Annual Calendar Heads to Auction
When Patek Philippe introduced the reference 5205 in 2010, it was meant to be a modern expression of one of the brand’s most useful complications—the Annual Calendar. Over time the reference has evolved into one of the manufacture’s most recognizable contemporary dress complications, and the 5205R-011 variant, released in the early 2020s, may be its most visually striking iteration. With its olive-green dial and warm rose-gold case, the watch heading to auction this week is a perfect snapshot of the brand’s ability to blend classic complications with contemporary color trends.
The 5205R-011 features a 40mm case crafted from 18-karat rose gold, a size that sits comfortably in the sweet spot for modern collectors who want elegance without excess bulk. The dial is the star of the show: a sunburst olive-green surface with a subtle black gradient around the outer edge, giving it depth and drama depending on the light. Three apertures arc across the top of the dial displaying the day, date, and month, one of the signature design features of this reference. At 6 o’clock, a subdial integrates the moonphase display along with a day-night indicator, keeping the layout balanced while delivering a healthy dose of mechanical romance.
Inside beats the self-winding caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/206, a movement designed to handle the annual calendar complication—one of Patek Philippe’s most practical inventions. The annual calendar automatically accounts for the different lengths of months throughout the year and requires adjustment only once annually at the end of February. The movement also incorporates a 24-hour indicator and moonphase display, all powered by a mechanical architecture visible through the sapphire caseback.
In terms of market context, the 5205R-011 sits in an interesting place in the modern Patek Philippe lineup. The official retail price is around $73,500, but current secondary-market estimates hover in the mid-$50,000 range depending on condition and completeness of the set. Listings across the market frequently cluster between roughly $55,000 and $65,000 for examples with box and papers, placing this reference squarely in the sweet spot for collectors seeking a precious-metal Patek complication without entering perpetual-calendar territory.
The example in this auction appears to be in very good overall condition. The dial, hands, and crystal are described as excellent, while the rose-gold case shows only minor hairline scratches—exactly the kind of light wear you would expect from a watch that has actually been enjoyed rather than hidden in a safe. The buckle shows similar light signs of use. Importantly for collectors, the watch comes complete with its box, papers, and product literature, details that help maintain value and collector confidence.
From a design perspective, the olive-green dial gives this particular reference a slightly more contemporary personality than earlier versions of the 5205. It feels less like a boardroom watch from the 1990s and more like a modern luxury complication—something that can transition from formal settings to casual wear with surprising ease. In many ways, it captures the current direction of the luxury watch market, where traditional Swiss craftsmanship meets a willingness to experiment with color and visual texture.
With the auction scheduled to close today at 5:09 p.m. EDT (Tuesday, March 10, 2026), the 5205R-011 represents a compelling opportunity for collectors who appreciate the elegance of Patek Philippe’s complication watches but want something with a little more personality than the usual silver or black dial. If bidding lands anywhere near the current secondary-market averages, this could turn out to be one of those quietly smart acquisitions—a rose-gold Patek complication with modern styling and timeless mechanics.
For collectors who like their calendar complications served with a splash of green, this one checks a lot of boxes.
Current bid: $32,000