BuyingTime Daily - June 8, 2026
Rolex raises gold watch prices again, TAG Heuer goes full V12, Tudor collectors gather in Geneva, and a rare Roger Dubuis tourbillon heads to auction tonight.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Today’s watch world feels like it is balancing two very different realities. On one side, luxury brands continue to push prices higher, with Rolex adding another 5% increase to many of its gold models, while industry observers increasingly question whether some of the Swiss watch industry’s traditional pricing strategies are eroding consumer trust. A thoughtful analysis of the market suggests that today’s buyers are more informed than ever, using secondary-market pricing as a reality check and forcing brands and retailers to become more transparent about value and long-term collectibility. At the same time, the mid-market appears far healthier than the ultra-luxury segment, suggesting that collectors remain active—they are simply becoming more selective.
On the technical front, movement specialist Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier introduced its new VMF 5500 micro-rotor caliber, extending power reserve to an impressive 65 hours while maintaining compatibility with existing VMF 5400 designs. It is the kind of movement upgrade that may not grab headlines outside enthusiast circles, but it reflects the growing emphasis on reliability, longevity, and serviceability that collectors increasingly demand.
New releases were plentiful. Farer expanded its GMT Bezel collection with two handsome Nevada-inspired models featuring upgraded Sellita GMT movements and colorful guilloché dials. Independent brand Pragma continued its sustainability-focused approach with the remarkably limited P1 Perseverance Silver Obsidian Dial, a six-piece release combining recycled materials with haute horlogerie ambitions. Rado added some much-needed fun to the skeleton-watch category with three brightly colored DiaStar Original Skeleton editions, while TAG Heuer delivered perhaps the most outrageous release with the Monaco Speed 12, a V12-inspired mechanical sculpture featuring rotating titanium pistons and a price tag to match its ambition.
The review bench was equally busy. Albishorn impressed with its colorful Marinagraph Paraíba Racing regatta chronograph, while Awake showcased traditional Vietnamese lacquer artistry in its striking Sơn Mài Union Jack. Bell & Ross explored architectural watchmaking through the BR-X3 Micro-Rotor, Doxa dove into Texas watch culture with the updated SUB 200 II, and Pequignet continued its quiet resurgence with the Royale Paris Chronograph. Meanwhile, Sinn, Timex Atelier, Ollech & Wajs, and Tsar Bomba all received hands-on evaluations that highlighted the remarkable diversity currently available across nearly every price segment.
Collectors looking for perspective rather than purchases had plenty to enjoy as well. A remarkable photo report from Geneva documented an extraordinary gathering of vintage Tudor collectors, while comedian and serious enthusiast Kevin Hart discussed why the legendary Patek Philippe Reference 5004 remains one of the cornerstones of his collection. Comparative features examined the ongoing battle between the Breitling Chronomat B01 and Zenith Chronomaster Original, explored collaboration watches, surveyed Rolex Datejust alternatives, and revisited several iconic watches from the 1990s.
In the auction world, Friday’s featured 2023 Czapek Quai des Bergues reached $16,750 but failed to meet reserve, leaving interested collectors with an opportunity to negotiate directly. Tonight’s featured auction shifts attention to something considerably more extreme: the 2025 Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pirelli PitStop Tourbillon. Limited to just 28 examples worldwide, the skeletonized tourbillon machine currently sits at $30,500 ahead of bidding’s close and represents one of the boldest intersections of supercar culture and haute horlogerie currently available.
For those preferring video content, today’s watchlist includes an emotional farewell from Swiss Watch Gang after a nine-year journey, a look at hype watches that may actually deserve their reputation, Britt Pearce’s struggle to part with beloved pieces from Rolex, Seiko, and Tudor, a discussion of the latest Rolex release, and an entertaining deep dive into the most expensive watches currently being sold on AliExpress. The podcast recommendation comes from aBlogtoWatch, where the conversation ranges from the possible comeback of fashion-watch brands to Formex’s move upmarket and the increasingly diverse directions the watch industry continues to explore.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
Silent Killers Of Swiss Watch Prestige
The Swiss watch industry is facing a growing trust problem as major groups have undermined price integrity, prompting buyers to lean heavily on secondary-market signals and reassess value. Export values are falling—especially at the high end—while the mid-tier shows relative strength, pointing to a reshaped market rather than a simple slowdown. A younger, highly informed buyer base is increasingly treating watches like assets and using market data to challenge traditional luxury positioning. The piece argues that retailers who embrace transparency, education, and stronger ties to independents and certified pre-owned will be best positioned as the market recalibrates.
Rolex hikes prices by 5% on gold watches
Rolex has implemented an additional 5% price increase specifically on its gold models, compounding earlier hikes and pushing several references further above their 2024 pricing. Examples include the 18ct white-gold Daytona rising to $59,100, while gold Day‑Date and Yacht‑Master pricing also climbs, reflecting a broader two‑year increase of roughly 26–28% for precious‑metal Rolex pieces. The story attributes much of the increase to sharply higher gold prices, while also noting the impact of currency dynamics like a stronger Swiss franc. Steel Rolex models are reported as unchanged for June, with at least one gold-on-gold Submariner Date holding steady as well.
Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier Unveils The VMF 5500, Its Upgraded Micro-Rotor Movement
Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier has introduced the VM 5500, an upgraded ultra-thin micro-rotor caliber that keeps the same footprint as the VM 5400, allowing straightforward interchangeability for existing watch designs. The key technical headline is a power-reserve jump from 45 to 65 hours, driven by optimization of the kinetic chain, a revised gear train, and materials improvements, while retaining a 3 Hz regulating organ. Vaucher is also positioning the movement around long-term durability, aiming for extended homologation targets and service guarantees that emphasize reliability over short-cycle novelty. The update also expands customization possibilities for partner brands by moving away from certain stamped components and leveraging more modern manufacturing capabilities.
Feature Time
Photo Report: A Truly Wild Tudor Collector Meet Up In Geneva
A Tudor collector meet-up in Geneva brought together a remarkable range of vintage Tudor watches, spanning rare Oyster models, historic Submariners, prototypes, and military-issued pieces. Attendees—including prominent collectors and Tudor insiders—handled dozens of watches across decades, with the gathering spotlighting unusual dials, scarce references, and archival examples like early Rangers and prototype chronographs. The write-up is structured as a visual tour, with photos and detailed captions that explain what makes each piece notable. Overall, it reads as both a celebration of Tudor’s heritage and a snapshot of how deep and serious the collector community has become.
Kevin Hart’s Favorite Watch Is Also Small but Mighty
Kevin Hart highlights the Patek Philippe reference 5004 as a cornerstone of their collection, praising its technical significance—especially the perpetual calendar and split-seconds chronograph—and its compact 36.5mm presence. The story notes Hart owns multiple versions (including white gold, stainless steel, and rose gold) and values both the horological achievement and long-term desirability of the model. It also traces how Hart’s collecting evolved from modest beginnings into an enthusiasm for rare, technically ambitious watches across top brands. A key theme is legacy: Hart frames the collection as something to pass down, emphasizing sentimental value and explicitly rejecting the idea of selling the watches.
The Latest Time
Farer
Farer GMT Bezel Collection
Farer has expanded its GMT Bezel collection with two new models—the Nevada Pine (40mm) and Nevada Mocha (38mm)—each featuring a barley-corn guilloché dial in green or taupe gradient tones. Both retain a 200m water-resistance rating and use the upgraded Sellita SW330-2 automatic movement with a 56-hour power reserve, independent GMT hand adjustment, and quick-set date. Strap-and-bracelet options include color-matched leather/alcantara as well as a three-link steel bracelet with micro-adjustment. Pricing starts at $1,834 (converted from £1,375) on a strap and $2,088 (converted from £1,565) on a bracelet.
Pragma
The First Of The Pragma P1 Perseverance Stone Dial Editions 2026
Pragma’s P1 Perseverance Silver Obsidian Dial launches a tiny limited run first shown at London Watch Week 2026, with only six pieces planned (five in recycled “solar” stainless steel and one in 3N gold). The 39mm watch pairs a stone dial—indexes carved directly into the obsidian—with the in-house Pragma 1031-1 automatic chronometer, built from 100% recycled Grade 5 titanium and offering a 60-hour power reserve. The story emphasizes the brand’s sustainability approach and unusual transparency around materials and sourcing, positioning this as eco-conscious haute horology rather than a typical small-batch indie release. Price is $44,084 (converted from CHF 34,500, ex. VAT).
Rado
Rado Just Dropped Three Skeleton Automatic Watches With Seriously Great Colors
Rado’s DiaStar Original Skeleton collection introduces three color-accented limited editions—blue, green, and red—each capped at 555 pieces. All share a 38mm case with a ceramic-steel composite bezel, sapphire crystals front and back, 100m water resistance, and the automatic R808 caliber with an 80-hour power reserve. The openworked dials lean into playful contrast with matching lume and color-matched rubber straps using Rado’s EasyClip system. Pricing is listed from $2,550 to $2,800 depending on version.
TAG Heuer
The TAG Heuer Monaco Speed 12, a Spin Time-Powered Racing Machine for the Wrist
The Monaco Speed 12 reworks TAG Heuer’s square chronograph into a high-concept “engine” display, featuring twelve rotating titanium pistons that indicate the hours like a V12 firing sequence. It comes in a 40mm Grade 5 titanium case with a sapphire bezel and an open architecture built around Calibre TH84-00, developed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, and incorporating Spin Time display tech with a 45-hour power reserve. Limited to 50 numbered pieces, it’s positioned as a high-end mechanical statement rather than a conventional Monaco update. Price is $87,000 (already listed in USD).
Wearing Time - Reviews
Albishorn
Hands-On With The Albishorn Marinagraph Paraíba Racing
The Albishorn Marinagraph Paraíba Racing is a limited-edition 99-piece chronograph that combines vintage-inspired styling with modern complications. Its 42.7mm steel case frames a vivid Paraíba-green dial, and it runs on Albishorn’s proprietary ALB01 A automatic chronograph movement with a 64-hour power reserve. Functionally, it stands out with a 10-minute retrograde regatta countdown and a tide indicator—features that tie directly to its yachting narrative. Price is $5,048 USD (converted from CHF 3,950).
Awake
Awake Sơn Mài Union Jack
Awake’s Sơn Mài Frosted Leaf Union Jack blends traditional Vietnamese lacquer craft with a subtle UK motif, built up through layered lacquer, silver leaf, and hand-chiselled detailing. The 39mm recycled-steel case houses the La Joux-Perret G101 automatic movement with a 68-hour power reserve, and the caseback marks the limited edition numbering out of 50 pieces. The watch is finished with a deep-blue nubuck strap with red stitching and offers 50m water resistance. Price is $3,202 USD (converted from £2,400, tax-inclusive; before any additional local taxes).
Bell & Ross
Bell & Ross BR-X3 Micro-Rotor Watch Hands-On: Haute Cubism
The BR-X3 Micro-Rotor is positioned as a more accessible entry to Bell & Ross’s BR-X3 line, keeping the bold square architecture while swapping the tourbillon-level pricing for a micro-rotor automatic. In a 40mm steel case with sapphire elements, the watch emphasizes open-worked mechanics and a contemporary, minimalist dial approach that relies on lume-filled hands rather than traditional markers. The review highlights its limited run of 99 pieces and a design that balances wrist comfort with a strong, avant-garde presence. Price is $22,500 USD.
Doxa
Diving Into Texas Watch Culture With The Doxa SUB 200 II
The Doxa SUB 200 II updates the brand’s classic dive-watch formula with a larger 44mm case, a slimmer profile for the size, and a 200m water-resistance rating. It comes in several fumé dial colors paired with matching bezel inserts and is powered by a Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement. The story also uses the watch as a lens on Fort Worth’s growing enthusiast scene, describing how the model was presented at a large local gathering and how collectors reacted to the new sizing and palette. Price is $1,690–$1,890 USD (already in USD, depending on strap/bracelet configuration).
Ollech & Wajs
The Ollech & Wajs Astrochron — A Dive Chronograph That Earns Its Saltwater Stripes
The Astrochron is presented as a purpose-built, modern tool chronograph with serious dive specs, including 500m water resistance and a robust 39.5mm case. It pairs a Valjoux 7753-based movement with practical usability features like oversized pushers and strong underwater legibility, leaning into function-over-luxury design. Real-world ocean testing off Sydney is a key part of the piece, with attention to how the watch handles wet operation and maintains clarity without fogging. No watch price is listed in the database entry.
Pequignet
Hands-On: The Pequignet Royale Paris Chronograph
This review frames the Royale Paris Chronograph as a statement of Pequignet’s modern evolution, pairing a 39.5mm steel case with a modular automatic chronograph built on the Calibre Initial and a Dubois-Depraz module. The dial mixes classic and contemporary cues (including optional deep-blue or burgundy sub-dials), while the movement and finishing are emphasized through the display caseback. With a 65-hour power reserve and 50m water resistance, it’s positioned as an everyday-wearable independent chronograph offering. Price is $7,489 USD (converted from €6,450).
Sinn
Hands-On With My Latest Purchase — The Sinn 103 St Ty Hd
The Sinn 103 St Ty Hd is described as a limited-edition, hand-wound chronograph that channels vintage styling—panda dial, acrylic crystal, and tri-compax layout—while incorporating modern upgrades. It runs on a Sellita SW510 M movement with a 58-hour power reserve, plus practical touches like hacking seconds and antimagnetic protection. The entry emphasizes collectibility through its 1,000-piece run and details like the engraved caseback, while also arguing it remains strong value for the build quality. Price is $3,008 USD (converted from €2,590).
Timex Atelier
Timex Atelier Chronograph Automatic M1a Titanium Watch Review: Neo-Vintage Italian Charm
This review covers the titanium-cased Timex Atelier Chronograph Automatic M1a Ti, designed by Giorgio Galli, positioned as a more premium, design-forward chronograph within Timex’s lineup. It uses a Swiss-made Landeron automatic movement and features a skeletonized middle-case architecture with a display caseback. The piece contrasts the automatic model with its quartz sibling, noting differences in weight, water resistance, and overall wear experience. Price is $2,100–$2,250 USD (already listed in USD, depending on strap vs. bracelet).
Tsar Bomba
Tsar Bomba Light Matter Review: A Surprisingly Beautiful, Affordable Tonneau-Shaped Sapphire Watch
The Tsar Bomba Light Matter is framed as a value play in the sapphire-tonneau aesthetic, pairing a sapphire crystal top with the brand’s “Chronite” case material to keep costs down while maintaining scratch resistance. Its large tonneau form is powered by a Seiko NH35A automatic movement with roughly two days of power reserve, leaning heavily into the look of far more expensive watches. The review notes strong build quality for the price, with practical touches like a quick-release strap system and readable lume markers. The database entry describes it as priced “just over” $2,000 USD (no exact figure provided).
Comparing Time
Sunday Morning Showdown: Breitling Chronomat B01 Chronograph 42 Vs. Zenith Chronomaster Original
This head-to-head compares Breitling’s updated Chronomat B01 Chronograph 42 with Zenith’s Chronomaster Original as two modern takes on classic chronograph design. The piece notes Breitling’s refinements aimed at wearability—especially a slimmer profile—while Zenith stays closer to its 1969-inspired proportions and the El Primero 3600 movement. It contrasts bracelet ergonomics and overall design priorities, framing the choice as heritage purity versus modernized comfort. Pricing is also part of the calculus, with Breitling positioned slightly below Zenith in the comparison.
Buying Guide: When Worlds Collide, Six of the Best Collaboration Watches
This buying guide highlights six collaboration watches that merge different brands’ aesthetics and technical strengths into limited-run collector pieces. It spans a wide range—from high-end, precious-metal or technically experimental models to more approachable pre-order collaborations—showing how partnerships can drive novelty and buzz. The article emphasizes the distinctive hooks that make each collab feel like more than a logo swap, including unusual mechanisms, cross-category design cues, and tightly controlled production. Overall, it presents collaboration watches as a key lane for creative risk-taking and exclusivity in today’s market.
Best Rolex Datejust Alternatives: 13 Picks We Reviewed Hands-on
This roundup surveys a wide range of watches positioned as practical alternatives to the Rolex Datejust, organized across multiple budget tiers. It starts with entry-level options that prioritize clean, versatile design, then moves into mid-range picks that balance styling with stronger movements and everyday utility. Higher-end selections aim to replicate the Datejust’s “do-it-all” role with better materials, refined finishing, and more advanced mechanical or solar tech—while still offering distinct character. The overall takeaway is that Datejust-like versatility can be found at many price points, depending on what traits matter most to the buyer.
Fratello’s Top 5 Iconic Watches From The 1990s
This list spotlights five 1990s watches that have evolved into modern classics, blending design signatures with enduring collector appeal. It moves across categories—from sports icons with major cultural visibility to serious enthusiast pieces with technical interest—while grounding each pick in key specs, historical context, and current market positioning. The article frames the 1990s as a formative era that helped define today’s luxury-watch landscape, particularly through recognizable design codes and reliable movement platforms. It ultimately argues these models remain relevant because they combine strong identity with proven long-term desirability.
Deal Time
eBay Finds: A Waltham in Great Condition, a Few Affordable Seikos, and the Most 80s Watch You’ve Ever Seen
This roundup curates a grab-bag of vintage watches currently listed on eBay, spotlighting pieces for their design character, condition, and period charm. Highlights include a 1974 Seiko with a bold blue dial and original beads-of-rice bracelet, a clean Waltham with a standout red-tipped seconds hand, and a Caravelle “Devil Diver” with an appealing ghost bezel. The selection mixes mechanical and digital nostalgia—right down to an unapologetically 1980s Jordache digital watch—while encouraging collectors to chase variety rather than one “correct” style lane. Each pick is presented as a live opportunity, linking directly to auctions so readers can act quickly if something speaks to them.
Independent Highlights at Marteau & Co.’s Summer Sale | SJX Watches
Marteau & Co.’s online-only “Heat Wave” auction (June 10–17) focuses on independent watchmaking, with lots ranging from relatively accessible pieces to extremely high-end complications. The article calls out standout offerings like a Voutilainen Decimal Repeater Regulator in gold, an F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain with mother-of-pearl details, and a prototype by Chinese watchmaker Qian Guo Biao, emphasizing the depth and rarity of the catalog. It also notes Marteau’s “Maker’s Fee” concept, designed to give watchmakers a percentage of the hammer price and better align creators with the secondary market. The result is positioned as both a shopping guide and a snapshot of how independents are reshaping collector demand and auction dynamics.
Marteau & Co.’s “Heat Wave” Sale Features Unique Independents And An Education On Lesser-Known Makers
This overview frames Marteau & Co.’s “Heat Wave” sale (June 10–17) as a wide-ranging look at independent watchmaking, mixing recognizable collector names with lesser-known creators and prototypes. It highlights the breadth of estimates—from low-thousands CHF collaboration pieces to six-figure-plus statement watches—underscoring how the auction is designed to appeal across budgets. A major theme is the auction house’s fee structure that shares a portion with the watchmakers, positioning the sale as more creator-supportive than traditional secondary-market models. The catalog is presented as both an opportunity to bid and a learning tool for collectors who want to go deeper than the usual headline brands.
Watching Time - Videos
After 9 Years, It’s Time To Say Goodbye - YouTube - Swiss Watch Gang
The video reflects on the emotional weight of bringing a nine-year journey to a close, emphasizing how revisiting past achievements can create a sense of closure. It highlights the value of reflection as a way to honor what was accomplished over nearly a decade. The message frames endings as meaningful milestones rather than failures. Ultimately, it positions the conclusion of one chapter as motivation for whatever comes next.
11 INSANE Hype Watches That Actually Deserve It - YouTube - Chisholm Hunter
This video spotlights a lineup of luxury watches currently driving major hype, breaking down what makes each one especially desirable in today’s market. It focuses on the design cues, innovations, and cultural “why now” factors that shape collector enthusiasm. The presentation aims to help viewers understand why certain models stand out beyond branding alone. It functions as a trend-and-taste guide for anyone tracking the high-end watch conversation.
I Tried To Sell My Watches. I Couldn’t Do It. | Rolex, Seiko, Tudor - YouTube - Britt Pearce
The video explores the challenges of reselling luxury watches, using brands like Rolex, Seiko, and Tudor to illustrate how quickly demand can shift. It emphasizes how timing can make or break a sale, even when the watches are desirable on paper. Authenticity and provenance are presented as essential for credibility and for reaching the right buyer. The overall takeaway is that understanding market dynamics is just as important as the watch itself when trying to sell.
The NEW ROLEX Release is FINALLY HERE! | Selling Time S4:EP37 - YouTube - WatchGuys
This episode discusses a new Rolex release and frames it as a notable moment in luxury watch culture, focusing on what’s new and why it matters to enthusiasts. It connects the launch to broader collector trends, including how design details and brand momentum can shape demand. The video also examines potential ripple effects in the resale market, suggesting how hype can influence values. Overall, it positions major Rolex drops as events that can steer tastes and attention across the wider watch world.
Shopping The Most EXPENSIVE Watches On AliExpress - YouTube
The video looks at the surprising rise of high-priced “luxury-style” watches sold on mass-market platforms like AliExpress and what that says about shifting buyer behavior. It explores how online marketplaces are changing perceptions of accessibility, value, and what consumers expect for the money. By walking through examples of the most expensive listings, it highlights how digital commerce can blur traditional boundaries between mainstream retail and luxury signaling. The broader theme is how platform-driven shopping is reshaping competition and brand perception in watches.
Talking Time - Podcasts
aBlogtoWatch Weekly Podcast #224: Fashion Watches Fight Back, Formex Levels Up, And Watches For Life Beyond Earth
This episode revisits the comeback potential of fashion-watch brands like Fossil, Timex, and Movado, and how shifting retail strategies and enthusiast tastes may be giving these players new momentum. The hosts discuss whether the “mall watch” stigma is fading as brands try to speak more directly to enthusiasts and value-driven buyers. The conversation then pivots to Formex—specifically the Aria moving upmarket—debating whether the higher pricing is justified and what the micro-rotor brings to the table. Other detours include meteorite dials, space-themed watches, celebrity partnerships, and a Ferrari tangent that underscores how wide-ranging the modern watch conversation has become.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com
[Friday’s auction watch, the 2023 Czapek Quai des Bergues 42.5 Steel / Blue / Roman / Strap (1031) - was bid to $16,750 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2025 Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pirelli PitStop Tourbillon 45 DLC-Coated Titanium / Skeletonized / Strap - Limited to 28 Pieces (RDDBEX0669)
Auction Report: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pirelli PitStop Tourbillon RDDBEX0669 – Hypercar Horology in a 28-Piece Edition
Some watches are designed to tell time. Others are designed to make a statement. The 2025 Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pirelli PitStop Tourbillon belongs firmly in the second category.
Limited to just 28 pieces worldwide, the Excalibur Spider Pirelli PitStop Tourbillon represents one of the most extreme expressions of modern Swiss watchmaking. Born from Roger Dubuis’ ongoing partnership with Pirelli, the watch blends high-performance motorsport influences with the brand’s signature skeletonized architecture. The result is a 45mm machine crafted from lightweight DLC-coated titanium that looks as though it was lifted directly from the cockpit of a Le Mans prototype rather than a traditional watchmaker’s bench. The Pirelli collaboration traces its roots back to 2017 and has become one of the defining themes of the Excalibur Spider collection, incorporating racing-inspired design language and materials throughout the series.
The star of the show is the skeletonized RD505SQ flying tourbillon movement. Roger Dubuis has built its reputation on highly technical, visually dramatic calibers, and the RD505SQ delivers exactly that. Nearly every component is visible through the openworked dial, creating a three-dimensional landscape of bridges, gears, and rotating mechanical theater. The flying tourbillon, prominently displayed within the skeletonized structure, serves as both a precision device and a visual centerpiece. Like many Roger Dubuis calibers, the movement reflects the manufacture’s commitment to high-end finishing and Geneva Seal-level standards.
What makes this particular example especially attractive is its condition. Offered as unworn and complete with box, papers, hangtags, and product literature, it presents as close to a boutique-fresh example as a collector could hope to find. For a limited-production Roger Dubuis, originality and completeness matter, and collectors increasingly seek full-set examples as these highly specialized references become more difficult to source.
From a value perspective, the market for the RDDBEX0669 remains remarkably strong. Recent dealer offerings and secondary-market listings have generally clustered around the $49,000 to $51,000 range, suggesting that the model has maintained solid collector interest despite the broader luxury-watch market’s recent cooling. The combination of a tourbillon movement, a 28-piece production run, and the recognizable Pirelli partnership creates a compelling formula that continues to resonate with collectors seeking something outside the mainstream offerings from traditional Swiss maisons.
This is not a watch for someone looking for understatement. The angular case, skeletonized movement, racing-inspired aesthetics, and aggressive use of modern materials make it one of the boldest watches on the market. Yet that is precisely its appeal. Roger Dubuis has spent the past decade carving out a niche at the intersection of haute horlogerie and supercar culture, and the Excalibur Spider Pirelli PitStop Tourbillon may be one of the purest expressions of that philosophy.
As bidding closes at 6:50 p.m. EDT tonight (Monday, June 8, 2026), collectors will have the opportunity to acquire one of only 28 examples ever produced. For enthusiasts of modern independent-minded watchmaking, few watches capture the spirit of contemporary mechanical excess quite like this one. It is loud, technical, unapologetic, and unmistakably Roger Dubuis.
Current bid: $30,500