BuyingTime Daily - June 4, 2026
AMT unveils next-gen movements, Tudor shrinks the Black Bay Chrono, Rolex doubles down on 36mm perfection, and a Zenith tourbillon steals the auction spotlight.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Yesterday, the watch industry offered a fascinating mix of industrial-scale innovation, independent watchmaking artistry, fresh product launches, and a healthy reminder that retail remains an important part of the luxury watch ecosystem. The biggest business story of the day came from Manufacture AMT, the higher-end movement specialist operating alongside Sellita. Its upcoming AMT 7000 and AMT 8000 movement families suggest that more brands may soon have access to genuinely differentiated calibers without needing to build an entire manufacture from scratch. With extended power reserves, ten-year service interval targets, and an emphasis on exclusivity, AMT appears determined to occupy the increasingly attractive middle ground between generic outsourced movements and fully proprietary in-house calibers. Meanwhile, REEDS Jewelers celebrated its 80th anniversary with the opening of another impressive Rolex-anchored showroom in North Carolina, further evidence that luxury watch retail continues to evolve into a hospitality-driven experience rather than a simple transactional environment.
On the feature side, few stories captured the romance of watchmaking quite like the return visit to the workshop of Philippe Dufour. Thirteen years after the publication’s last visit, Dufour remains a living symbol of traditional hand-finishing and artisanal watchmaking. The article serves as both a profile and a reminder that some of the industry’s most influential figures operate far from the spotlight of major corporate groups. Elsewhere, Ochs und Junior delivered one of the more intriguing releases of the week by adapting several of its signature mechanical concepts into customizable pendant and pocket-watch formats. The result feels less like nostalgia and more like a thoughtful exploration of alternative ways to wear mechanical timepieces.
Among today’s notable reviews, the spotlight fell on Rolex and its new green ombré Datejust dials. The consensus was clear: while both sizes look excellent, the classic 36mm version remains the purest expression of the Datejust formula. It is another reminder that bigger is not always better, particularly when proportion and balance are central to a design’s appeal.
New watch launches kept the news cycle busy. Bulova introduced a stealthy new Lunar Pilot “Black Hole” edition with a dramatically light-absorbing dial and a more wearable 41mm case. Casio continued proving that attractive design does not require a luxury budget with the Bauhaus-inspired MTP-VT06. Rado brightened summer with three colorful DiaStar Original Skeleton editions, while Seiko celebrated PADI’s 60th anniversary with a limited-edition Prospex King Turtle. Independent favorite Trilobe expanded its unconventional Trente-Deux collection with new steel and gold variants, and Tudor generated considerable buzz with a compact 39mm Black Bay Chrono “Bumblebee” featuring a bold yellow dial that somehow manages to be both outrageous and highly appealing.
In the review category, Arken impressed with its lightweight titanium Alterum Sage Grey GMT, offering a practical travel watch at an accessible price point. Atelier Wen demonstrated that weight can sometimes be a feature rather than a flaw with its tantalum-bodied Inflection, a watch that combines Chinese-inspired craftsmanship with serious horological credentials. Meanwhile, Borealis delivered an eye-catching orange dive watch in the Porto Covo Nazaré Edition, proving that enthusiast brands continue to find creative ways to stand out in a crowded segment.
Collectors searching for value may want to revisit Ebel, as today’s buying guide highlighted the often-overlooked Sport Classic Chronograph. Once a staple of 1980s luxury sports-watch culture, it remains one of the more interesting pre-owned chronograph opportunities for buyers willing to navigate the realities of vintage ownership and servicing.
Video watchers have plenty to keep them occupied this evening. The return of the Cartier Roadster generated substantial interest, Britt Pearce offered an enthusiastic look at the new Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39, and the ongoing parade of collection reviews, field-watch rankings, and YouTube personality feuds ensured there was no shortage of horological entertainment. Podcast listeners should make time for the latest Business of Watches episode featuring Studio Underd0g founder Richard Benc, whose rapid rise from startup founder to one of Britain’s most successful independent watch entrepreneurs remains one of the industry’s more remarkable stories.
Finally, over at BuyingTime at Auction, yesterday’s Hublot Big Bang Unico Golf Orange failed to meet reserve despite attracting bidding to $8,450, meaning interested buyers may still have an opportunity to negotiate. Today’s featured auction is a far more serious piece of mechanical machinery: the 2015 Zenith Grande Class Tourbillon in white gold. Currently sitting at $13,751 with the auction ending at 4:20 p.m. EDT today, it remains one of the more intriguing values in complicated watchmaking. White gold, a high-frequency El Primero chronograph movement, and a tourbillon complication for a fraction of its original retail price is the sort of equation that tends to look better the longer one studies it.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
The Rise of Manufacture AMT and an Exclusive Look at Its Two New Movement Families
Manufacture AMT, Sellita’s sister company, focuses on higher-grade mechanical movements for brands that want custom calibres rather than off-the-shelf options. By leveraging Sellita’s industrial scale and vertical integration, AMT can produce key components in-house while keeping a strong price-to-quality balance, and it operates with an exclusivity model that typically starts around 1,000-piece commitments. The company positions its work as premium and discreet, aimed at brands looking for differentiation and longer service intervals. Beginning in early 2027, AMT plans to launch two new movement families—AMT 7000 (automatic, 84-hour reserve) and AMT 8000 (manual, ten-day reserve)—both engineered around ten-year service intervals and durability-focused architecture.
REEDS Jewelers opens third Rolex-anchored showroom
REEDS Jewelers has opened a 7,800-square-foot Landmark showroom in Cary, North Carolina, anchored by Rolex and supported by a curated mix of Swiss watch brands plus bridal and fine jewelry. Located in the Fenton mixed-use development, the space is designed to feel immersive and home-like, with lounges, private consultation rooms, and hospitality-forward details meant to elevate the luxury shopping experience. The new location also marks REEDS’ 80th anniversary, underscoring its growth from a 1946 family business into one of the largest jewelry retailers in the U.S. Company leaders emphasize relationship-building, trust, and a welcoming environment as core to the concept.
Feature Time
Dispatch: A Visit to Philippe Dufour’s Workshop, Thirteen Years Since Our Last
This dispatch revisits Philippe Dufour’s workshop in Le Solliat, painting a close-up picture of his day-to-day environment and his continued commitment to handcrafting watches with traditional methods and extraordinary finishing. It traces his path from an early school watch project through defining works like the Simplicity and Duality, emphasizing how time, capacity, and perfectionism shape everything he produces. The story also connects Dufour to the wider Vallée de Joux watchmaking ecosystem and the broader independent scene, framing him as both a guardian of heritage and a living influence on modern watch culture. Anecdotes involving lost or stolen components, local institutions, and ongoing new work underscore both the fragility and resilience of high-end artisanal watchmaking.
Just Because: The Well-Timed Release of the Ochs und Junior Pendant Watches
Ochs und Junior expands several of its signature models into pendant and pocket-watch formats, offering extensive customization across size, materials, dial colors, and optional functions. The pieces keep the brand’s minimalist design language while incorporating practical complications such as perpetual and annual calendars, dual time, date, day/night, and moon-phase displays. The release is framed as a timely counterpoint to recent excitement around convertible watches, but with an emphasis on longevity and a coherent mechanical philosophy rather than trend-chasing. A dedicated online configurator and direct brand communication reinforce the bespoke, enthusiast-oriented nature of the project.
The Rolex Datejust With Green Ombré Lacquer Dials Proves Once More Why The 36mm Form Reigns Supreme
Rolex’s Watches and Wonders 2026 Datejust updates introduce green ombré lacquer dials in both 36mm and 41mm, with the gradient finish delivering notable depth and visual drama. The 36mm variants are highlighted as the sweet spot for proportions and classic Datejust balance, offered with smooth or fluted bezels and Oyster or Jubilee bracelets. Both sizes share the calibre 3235 with a 70-hour power reserve and modern Rolex technical features, but the review argues the 41mm’s added visual elements slightly disrupt the design equilibrium. Overall, the piece makes the case that the 36mm Datejust remains the most convincing platform for showcasing the new dial treatment.
The Latest Time
Bulova
Bulova trims Lunar Pilot to 41mm for “Black Hole” edition
Bulova’s Lunar Pilot gets a smaller 41mm case in this limited “Black Hole” edition, inspired by the lesser-known backup Bulova worn by astronaut David Scott on Apollo 15. The standout is a Musou black dial designed to absorb 99.4% of light, paired with a matte black PVD case and bracelet plus high-contrast lume details (including a blue-glowing night-time hand). It’s limited to 6,000 pieces and comes with themed extras like a “Black Hole” presentation box, travel pouch, and a travel clock styled after Apollo-era instruments. Price is $1,650.
Casio
The Casio MTP-VT06 Is an Affordable Watch Chasing Nomos Vibes
The Casio MTP-VT06 targets clean, Bauhaus-leaning dress-watch styling with a restrained dial layout that nods to far pricier minimalist brands. It uses a 37mm case and quartz movement, adding three sub-dials for day, date, and a 24-hour display to keep it practical without cluttering the look. Four variants launch across cream or black dials, each available on either a black leather strap or a three-link steel bracelet. Pricing isn’t official, but it’s expected to land around $50–$60.
Rado
Rado Drops a Trio of Summer-Toned DiaStar Original Skeleton
Rado releases three summer-colored DiaStar Original Skeleton limited editions, each built around the brand’s distinctive oval case shape and a skeletonized display. The trio shares the same 38mm × 45mm footprint, with a Ceramos bezel and sapphire front/back, but each version leans into a different color personality (blue, green, or red) with matching rubber straps. Inside is the automatic R808 with an 80-hour power reserve and Nivachron hairspring, visible through the sapphire caseback. Pricing is about $2,903 for the €2,500 versions and about $3,193 for the €2,750 green edition.
Seiko
The Limited Edition Seiko Prospex Divers Watch Padi 60th Anniversary HBB002
This Prospex “King Turtle” special edition celebrates PADI’s 60th anniversary and a decade of collaboration with Seiko, pairing a bold blue dial (with globe motif) and red accents with a tough 45mm dive-watch case. The watch is rated to dive-watch specs with a robust build, legible Lumibrite hands/markers, and a ceramic bezel, while the automatic 4R36 adds practical day-date functionality. It ships with both a steel bracelet and an additional black silicone strap branded with PADI’s full name. Limited to 8,000 pieces, it’s priced at about $871 (from €750).
Trilobe
The Trilobe Trente-Deux With New Colours & Gold Cases
Trilobe expands the Trente-Deux line with new dial/case combinations, spotlighting the brand’s in-house Calibre X-Nihilo and its distinctive rotating-disc time display for hours, minutes, and seconds. The updates include a steel version with a grey dial and a more luxurious 18k rose-gold model paired with a rich green dial and rubber strap, keeping the collection’s sporty-chic identity intact. Construction details (multi-part case, fluted bezel, sapphire crystal, 50m water resistance) position it as modern everyday high-end, with a visually unconventional readout. Prices start around $20,319 for the €17,500 steel model and $41,223 for the €35,500 rose-gold model (with “Secret” editions ranging roughly $24,967–$45,866 from €21,500–€39,500, before taxes).
Tudor
The New, More Compact Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 Bumblebee
Tudor’s Black Bay Chrono “Bumblebee” shifts the formula into a more wearable 39mm case while keeping the line’s core tool-chronograph character, including 200m water resistance and a tachymeter bezel. The defining move is the matte yellow dial with black sub-counters and blackened details, making it one of the bolder Black Bay Chronos while still clearly “Tudor” thanks to the snowflake hand. Power comes from the COSC-certified MT5813 (based on the Breitling B01 architecture) with column wheel and roughly 70 hours of reserve, paired to a steel bracelet with Tudor’s T-Fit micro-adjust. Price is about $7,198 (from €6,200) / about $7,028 (from CHF 5,500).
Wearing Time - Reviews
Arken
Going Hands-On With The New Arken Alterum Sage Grey GMT
The Arken Alterum Sage Grey GMT pairs a pine-green dial with a lightweight 40mm titanium case and a matching quick-release nylon strap, creating a bold but highly wearable travel-watch look. Inside is the ARK-9015DT automatic movement (a modified Miyota 9015) that supports a practical dual-time setup with clear home/local indications. Despite the robust spec, the watch stays comfortable thanks to its low weight (about 72g) and well-balanced proportions. Price is $850 USD.
Atelier Wen
The Atelier Wen Inflection - Heavy Metal on the Wrist
The Atelier Wen Inflection stands out for its full tantalum construction—case and integrated bracelet—giving it an unusually dense, substantial feel on-wrist while still aiming for ergonomic comfort. The deep navy 925 silver enamel dial and the detailing draw on traditional Chinese-inspired motifs, pairing ornate finishing with a modern integrated-bracelet silhouette. Power comes from the Girard-Perregaux GP03300, with a 48-hour reserve and elevated movement decoration to match the materials and positioning. Price is $29,800 USD.
Borealis
The Borealis Porto Covo Nazaré Edition Dive Watch
The Borealis Porto Covo Nazaré Edition is a limited-run 40mm automatic diver (50 pieces) that uses an attention-grabbing orange Cerakote finish balanced by a clean, purposeful dial layout. It runs the Miyota 9015 and backs up the looks with serious dive specs, including 300m water resistance and a 120-click unidirectional bezel. Design details like the rehaut-integrated markers and semi-hidden lugs help it feel cohesive and thoughtfully executed, though lume is relatively minimal. Price is $495 USD.
Deal Time
Is It Worth It: Pre-Owned Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph
This piece breaks down why the Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph has become an interesting pre-owned value, tracing its 1980s roots, its pop-culture visibility (including Miami Vice), and Ebel’s savvy marketing ties to tennis. It also gets into the watch’s technical story, including its connection to Zenith El Primero-based chronograph movements and how the line evolved across calibers and variants over time. On the buying side, it highlights what to look out for—especially bracelet attachment details, realistic water-resistance expectations, and the potential difficulty of sourcing correct accessories and parts. Typical pricing is framed around €2,000–€3,000 for good examples, with a reminder to budget for service and spares.
Watching Time - Videos
2026 Cartier Novelties: The Roadster Returns, New Tortue and Santos Watches, and Much More - YouTube
Ben’s Watches vs. Wrist Enthusiast: The most ridiculous 3 Watch Throw Down battle - YouTube
He Brought In His Entire Watch Collection... He Wasn’t Ready For What I Found - YouTube - Peter Piccolino
ROASTING watch YouTubers! May 2026 - YouTube - Cool_lectibles
The BEST Field Watches—$500 to $300,000 - YouTube - Unpolished
The Luxury Watches You Should Buy On ANY Budget! - YouTube - ProducerMichael
The New Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 Is Ridiculous (and good) - YouTube - Britt Pearce
Unboxing Vulcain, Seiko, Nomos, Fears, Doxa, and Tudor. (Exquisite Timepieces) - YouTube - Random Rob
Talking Time - Podcasts
The Business of Watches Podcast: Studio Underd0g Founder Richard Benc
This episode features a conversation with Richard Benc, the 33-year-old founder of Studio Underd0g, a fast-growing brand known for irreverent, design-driven mechanical watches at accessible prices. Since launching in 2020, the company has scaled to roughly 14,000 watches produced last year and has become the largest mechanical watch assembler in the United Kingdom. The discussion also covers how Studio Underd0g has invested in its supply chain—including acquiring an assembly and after-sales service operation—to keep tighter control over production and quality as it grows. Looking ahead, Benc shares plans for a public retail space called the “D0ghouse” in Maidenhead and previews the upcoming 04Series collection as the brand’s next step into more ambitious mechanics.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com
[Wednesday’s auction watch, the Hublot Big Bang Unico Golf Orange 45 Carbon / Skeletonized / Strap - Limited to 100 Pieces (416.YO.1120.VR) - was bid to $8,450 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2015 Zenith Grande Class Tourbillon 45 White Gold / Black / Strap (65.0520.4035/21.C492)
The White Gold Sleeper – Zenith’s Grande Class Tourbillon Deserves a Second Look
The luxury watch market has a funny way of overlooking genuinely impressive watches while obsessing over the usual suspects. The 2015 Zenith Grande Class Tourbillon in white gold is one of those watches. While collectors continue to chase the latest steel sports watch with a waiting list longer than a congressional hearing, Zenith quietly produced one of the most technically ambitious tourbillon chronographs of its era.
This particular example, reference 65.0520.4035/21.C492, combines a substantial 45mm 18-karat white gold case with a striking black dial and one of Zenith’s most respected movements, the automatic El Primero 4035. At first glance, the watch presents itself as a sophisticated dress chronograph. A closer inspection reveals the tourbillon aperture, reminding the wearer that this is far more than an ordinary chronograph.
The movement is where the story becomes interesting. Zenith’s El Primero has long been regarded as one of the most important automatic chronograph calibers ever created. Introduced in 1969, it survived the Quartz Crisis and later powered everything from Zenith’s own collections to certain generations of Rolex Daytona models. The Caliber 4035 found inside this Grande Class Tourbillon elevates that legacy by integrating a tourbillon into the high-frequency El Primero architecture. The result is a movement that combines chronograph functionality, automatic winding, and one of watchmaking’s most prestigious complications in a single package. The movement can be viewed through the sapphire caseback, showcasing Zenith’s traditional finishing and decorated rotor.
When new, watches in Zenith’s high-end tourbillon family carried retail prices well into the luxury stratosphere. Similar El Primero Tourbillon models from the period sold for roughly $45,000 to $50,000, placing them squarely against offerings from brands with significantly larger marketing budgets.
That pricing history is precisely why this auction is worth watching. Comparable examples of the Grande Class Tourbillon today are generally offered in the secondary market around the mid-$40,000 range, though actual transaction prices can vary substantially depending on condition, accessories, and market sentiment. A complete set with box and papers, such as the watch offered here, typically commands a premium over watch-only examples.
Condition appears solid. The watch is described as pre-owned with excellent dial, crystal, and handset condition. Minor wear on the case and strap is consistent with careful ownership and should not concern collectors seeking a wearable example rather than a museum piece. The inclusion of the original box, papers, and product literature further strengthens its appeal.
The larger question is whether collectors are finally beginning to appreciate Zenith’s complicated watches. For years, the market focused almost exclusively on the brand’s chronographs, leaving many of its tourbillon references trading at levels that seem surprisingly reasonable relative to their technical sophistication. A white gold case, an in-house high-frequency automatic chronograph movement, and a tourbillon from one of Switzerland’s most historically important manufactures is a combination that is difficult to replicate today without spending considerably more money.
As the auction approaches its close at 4:20 p.m. EDT on Thursday, June 4, 2026, bidders have an opportunity to acquire one of the more underappreciated complicated watches of the last decade. It may not have the hype of certain Geneva heavyweights, but in terms of mechanical content per dollar, the Zenith Grande Class Tourbillon remains one of the better-kept secrets in modern collecting.
Current bid: $13,751