BuyingTime Daily - June 3, 2026
Leadership changes at HSNY, Gallet’s comeback, new releases from Blancpain, Oris and Seiko, plus a wild Hublot Golf auction watch. Time marches on.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Today’s watch universe feels a bit like the watch industry itself: one foot planted firmly in tradition and the other stepping boldly into the future. Leadership changes grabbed headlines as the venerable Horological Society of New York announced the departure of Nicholas Manousos after a transformative 12-year tenure that saw scholarship funding, fundraising efforts, and public engagement reach new heights. While a search begins for a permanent successor, the organization’s educational mission remains firmly on course under interim leadership, ensuring that future watchmakers and collectors continue to benefit from one of the industry’s most important institutions.
The industry’s fascination with heritage was also on full display. Rado CEO Adrian Bossard offered a thoughtful look at how the brand continues to leverage its reputation as the “Master of Materials,” blending decades of ceramic innovation with contemporary design language. Meanwhile, Gallet officially returned to life under the stewardship of Breitling’s parent organization, immediately positioning itself as an adventurous, travel-focused alternative for enthusiasts seeking a slice of vintage-inspired romance without the six-figure price tags often attached to true collector pieces. On the independent side, Naoya Hida & Co. continues to demonstrate that small-scale production and obsessive attention to detail remain powerful differentiators in modern horology, building a reputation that grows stronger with each carefully considered annual release.
Las Vegas Jewelry Week offered a fascinating glimpse into where collector tastes may be heading next. The prevailing trend appears to be a retreat from oversized statement watches toward smaller proportions, jewelry-inspired designs, precious metals, and understated luxury. If recent years were about making sure everyone noticed your watch, 2026 increasingly feels like the year collectors want only fellow enthusiasts to notice it.
New releases delivered plenty of variety. Blancpain celebrated Marilyn Monroe’s centennial with an extravagant seven-piece Ladybird Tribute featuring an unusually sophisticated hand-wound movement hidden beneath a sea of diamonds. Delma reminded enthusiasts that practical pilot’s watches remain alive and well with its versatile 40mm Commander. Frederique Constant entered the solar-powered arena with the elegant Classics Moneta Solarmetre, proving that dress watches and solar technology are no longer mutually exclusive concepts. Oris paid tribute to baseball legend Lou Gehrig with a thoughtful limited-edition Big Crown Pointer Date, while Seiko added some summer fun with colorful new Astron GPS Solar chronographs in Crystal Green and Crystal Pink.
The review bench was equally diverse. Armin Strom demonstrated that mechanical wizardry still has the power to astonish with its $134,000 Dual Time GMT Resonance Aventurine. B.R.M. continued its motorsport obsession with the featherweight MK-44 chronograph, while Citizen showcased the remarkable technological depth hidden within its Attesa Platinum Shine. Jacob & Co. once again redefined excess with a sapphire-clad Bugatti Tourbillon housing a miniature animated V16 engine. Orient Star celebrated its 75th anniversary with a handsome meteorite-dial limited edition, and Rolex found itself under the microscope with a closer examination of the Yacht-Master II, one of the most specialized and polarizing models in the Crown’s lineup.
For collectors contemplating a minimalist collection, the comparison piece arguing for the combination of an Omega Speedmaster and a Doxa Sub 300 made a compelling case that two watches may be all anyone really needs—although history suggests most collectors will continue conducting research on that theory while buying their tenth watch.
Video watchers should make time for Ben Clymer’s conversation with A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmid, who offers valuable insight into the growing trend toward smaller case sizes and the challenges of scaling complications down without compromising legibility. Podcast listeners can enjoy the latest Fratello On Air episode, where watches, travel, family milestones, and a healthy dose of enthusiasm blend into the kind of relaxed conversation that reminds us why this hobby remains so enjoyable.
Meanwhile, the auction market provided its own entertainment. Tuesday’s Rolex Daytona Yellow Gold Oysterflex failed to meet reserve despite reaching $28,500, proving once again that sellers remain optimistic and buyers remain disciplined. Tonight’s featured auction is considerably more eccentric: the Hublot Big Bang Unico Golf Orange Carbon Limited Edition. With only 100 examples produced, a fully mechanical golf scorekeeping complication, and enough bright orange carbon fiber to make a driving range jealous, it may be one of the most delightfully unnecessary watches ever created. The current bid sits at just $750 as the auction approaches its 10:10 p.m. EDT close, a reminder that in the watch world, the most interesting stories are often found far from the mainstream.
—Michael Wolf
News Time
New leadership at Horological Society of New York
Nicholas Manousos has stepped down after a 12-year run leading the Horological Society of New York, a period marked by major fundraising growth, expanded scholarship awards, and a higher public profile for the organization. During his tenure, HSNY raised significant funds at its final gala and awarded substantial scholarship and grant support to the watchmaking community. Carolina Navarro will serve as interim executive director while the board conducts a search for a permanent replacement, and new trustees have also joined as outgoing members complete their terms. HSNY’s core programs—lectures, watchmaking courses, and library initiatives—will continue without interruption.
Feature Time
Rado CEO Adrian Bossard discusses the brand’s design evolution
Rado CEO Adrian Bossard explains how the brand’s “Master of Materials” identity has been built through decades of experimentation with scratch-resistant and high-tech materials, especially ceramics and newer alloys like Ceramos. He traces key milestones—from the early DiaStar to later icons—and notes how recent re-editions aim to balance heritage cues with modern finishing and color work. Bossard also outlines how Rado positions itself between accessibility and luxury, leveraging Swatch Group scale to deliver strong finishing and premium materials at mid-range prices. He emphasizes long-term value, sustainability, and selective designer collaborations as key to keeping the collection relevant—especially for younger buyers.
Gallet Returns And Immediately Wants To Leave Again
Gallet is being revived under the House of Brands (alongside Breitling and Universal Genève), with its first new collection set for September 3, 2026 and a new creative identity built around adventure and travel. The relaunch includes a storytelling platform featuring weekly dispatches from photographers and explorers starting July 22, positioning Gallet as a brand with an outward-looking, wanderlust-driven ethos. Manufacturing will be handled by Breitling, giving Gallet immediate access to proven production capabilities and a global retail footprint. With entry pricing starting around €3,200, the comeback frames Gallet as a more accessible sibling within a larger luxury group while leaning heavily into its historic pilot/racing/exploration DNA.
Naoya Hida 101
Naoya Hida & Co., founded in 2019, has built a reputation for “modern vintage” watches that combine traditional handcraft with contemporary engineering and tightly controlled production. The overview highlights how the brand iterates annually—experimenting with case shapes, finishes, and complications—while keeping a consistent design signature through typography, engraved details, and refined dial work. It also points to standout projects like collaborative pieces featuring hand-engraved precious-metal dials and heavily reworked movements, reflecting a craft-first approach rather than mass-market scalability. The result is a compact but evolving lineup that positions Naoya Hida as a leading name in slow-luxury independent horology.
The Hottest Watch Trends at Las Vegas’s Jewelry Week
Las Vegas jewelry week is portrayed as a dense mix of trade-show business and satellite events where watch trends skew strongly toward smaller, vintage-leaning pieces and jewelry-first designs. The report spotlights growing enthusiasm for micro-sized watches and secret-watch bracelets, reflecting a broader shift toward discreet luxury and stackable wear rather than oversized statement pieces. Dealers note that demand is being fueled by precious-metal construction, gemstone settings, and the appeal of mid-century styling—especially for collectors looking for value and versatility. Even modern offerings are framed through heritage cues, such as Patek-inspired collaborations and vintage references that feel current because of their restrained proportions.
The Latest Time
Blancpain
A Petite, Powerful Movement Inside Blancpain’s Marilyn Monroe Watch
Blancpain’s Ladybird Tribute Marilyn is a diamond-set, rectangular 18k white-gold tribute piece created for Marilyn Monroe’s centennial, pairing vintage cocktail-watch styling with a rare, high-spec hand-wound Cal. 510. The skeletonized movement (with a 52-hour power reserve) is positioned as a standout in a segment often dominated by quartz, while the case is set with 85 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 1.36 carats. Production is limited to just seven watches, individually lettered to spell “M-A-R-I-L-Y-N,” making it as much a collectible statement as a wearable timepiece. The listed price is CHF 41,000 (about $52,390).
Delma
The New Delma Commander 40mm, A More Compact and Versatile Pilot’s Watch
Delma updates the classic pilot format with a more wearable 40mm stainless-steel case, contemporary dial layout, and everyday-ready 100m water resistance. The watch keeps utility front-and-center with large luminous Arabic numerals, a 24-hour scale, and a date at 3 o’clock, powered by the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement (about a 41-hour power reserve). Multiple dial colors and Italian leather straps position it as an accessible daily-wear pilot, offered as a permanent collection rather than a limited run. Pricing is listed as CHF 890 / EUR 1,050 / USD 1,175 (about $1,136 / $1,224 / $1,175).
Frederique Constant
Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Solarmetre
Frederique Constant introduces its first solar-powered models with the Classics Moneta Solarmetre line, pairing a traditional, restrained dress-watch look with modern “always-on” practicality. The 39mm watches use the FC-120 solar quartz caliber (developed by La Joux-Perret) and are designed for long autonomy—up to ten months in total darkness—while recharging rapidly with brief light exposure. Design details like grained-effect dials and the collection’s coin-edge styling are meant to keep the solar tech visually discreet beneath the dial. No price is included in the database entry.
Oris
Oris Honors Lou Gehrig With A Limited-Edition Big Crown Pointer Date
Oris ties Lou Gehrig’s legacy to a limited Big Crown Pointer Date with layered baseball references—most notably the “4” on the pointer-date track, plus dial finishing and strap details meant to echo the sport’s textures. The package leans into commemorative storytelling with an engraved case back referencing Gehrig’s farewell speech, and a run of 2,130 pieces that nods to his consecutive-games streak. Underneath, it remains a straightforward, wearable 40mm steel pointer-date powered by a modified Sellita SW200-1 (about a 41-hour reserve) with 50m water resistance. Price is listed as €2,400 / CHF 2,400 (about $2,798 / $3,067).
Seiko
The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph In Crystal Green And Crystal Pink Summer “Flavors”
Seiko adds two summer-themed Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs in Crystal Green and Crystal Pink, combining playful color with the line’s travel-and-tech focus. The titanium case and refreshed octagonal bezel frame crystal-pattern dials, while the in-house solar quartz movement brings GPS time syncing, a perpetual calendar, dual-time functionality, and chronograph features in a cleaner 3-6-9 sub-dial arrangement. Each colorway is limited to 1,200 pieces and ships with both a titanium bracelet and an additional black silicone strap. Price is listed at €3,000 (about $3,498).
Wearing Time - Reviews
Armin Strom
A Closer Look At The $134,000 Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Aventurine
The Dual Time GMT Resonance Aventurine is a 15-piece limited edition that pairs Armin Strom’s signature resonance concept with a deep, star-like aventurine dial. Inside, the manually wound Caliber ARF22 uses a patented resonance clutch to synchronize two independent regulating systems, aiming for enhanced stability while putting the “in motion” mechanics on display. Beyond the technical showpiece element, it’s also built as a true travel watch, with dual-time indications and day/night displays for each time zone. Price is listed at approximately $134,000 USD.
B.R.M.
B.R.M. MK-44 Polished White Dial Light Blue Hands-On: Lightweight Watch With Titanium & Makrolon
The BRM MK-44 is a 44mm automatic chronograph built around an unusually lightweight, impact-resistant construction that combines a transparent Makrolon case with titanium components, keeping total weight to about 48.8 grams. Its racing-inspired design leans into bold, sporty legibility with a skeletonized look, distinctive marker layout, and light-blue accents matched to a perforated strap. Power comes from a Swiss ETA Valjoux 7753-based movement that’s been skeletonized and mounted with shock-absorbing elements, reinforcing the performance theme. Price is listed at $12,501 USD.
Citizen
Taking The Citizen Attesa Platinum Shine Back To The Country And Culture That Created It
The Citizen Attesa Platinum Shine is presented as a high-tech travel watch centered on Eco-Drive convenience with radio or satellite-controlled timekeeping and a feature-rich dial for multi-zone use. Its Super Titanium build with Platinum DLC coating focuses on lightweight durability and scratch resistance, paired with a bracelet designed to move between outdoor and formal settings. The design blends analog readability with digital-like functionality, but it also expects the wearer to engage with the system (and manual) to get the most from the 26 time-zone bezel and indicators. No price is included in the database entry.
Jacob & Co.
Jacob & Co. Bugatti Tourbillon Sapphire Crystal: The Transparent Hypercar
This Bugatti Tourbillon Sapphire Crystal is engineered as an extreme material-and-animation showcase, with a case and major exterior components machined from solid sapphire—a process described as taking over 800 hours of work. Inside, a V16-engine-inspired automaton animates 16 titanium pistons on command, turning the watch into a kinetic “hypercar on the wrist” concept as much as a timekeeper. The movement architecture supports multiple display elements, including an off-center time indication, a tourbillon, and a power-reserve display, all framed by the fully transparent build. Price is listed at $1,200,000 USD.
Orient Star
The Orient Star M34 F8 Date Meteorite, a Celestial Dial for the 75th Anniversary
Orient Star marks its 75th anniversary with a 255-piece limited edition built around a meteorite dial that highlights the Widmanstätten pattern and is treated for corrosion resistance. The watch comes in a 40mm steel case with 100m water resistance, a dual-curved sapphire crystal, and a layout that mixes modern detailing with practical features like a date at 3 and a power-reserve indicator at 12. Power is from the in-house F8N64 automatic caliber, featuring a silicon escape wheel and a 60-hour power reserve, positioning it as both collectible and genuinely wearable. Price is listed at EUR 3,250 (about $3,789 USD).
Rolex
A Closer Look: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II
The Yacht-Master II is framed here as Rolex’s specialized regatta countdown chronograph, updated to make its timing functions more intuitive and usable than the earlier Ring Command approach. The new reference is described as moving to push-button programming, adding a bidirectional bezel for elapsed time, and refining the dial layout by relocating the countdown scale to the inner flange for improved clarity. Mechanically, it’s powered by the Calibre 4162 with a 72-hour reserve, plus upgraded finishing details and a more complex programming system to manage countdown-minute jumps. Prices are listed starting at $20,300 USD (steel) and $57,800 USD (yellow gold).
Comparing Time
Why the Omega Speedmaster and Doxa Sub 300 Make the Best Two Watch Collection
The piece argues that an Omega Speedmaster chronograph and a Doxa Sub 300 diver form an ideal two-watch setup because they cover distinct, complementary roles. The Speedmaster is positioned as the precise, structured option for timing tasks and more polished settings, bringing mechanical heritage and a refined versatility. The Doxa Sub 300 is framed as the rugged, worry-free counterpart—built for water, travel, and everyday durability—so the wearer can rotate based on activity rather than preference alone. Together, they minimize redundancy while still delivering both practical coverage and emotional satisfaction.
Watching Time - Videos
Watch It: Wilhelm Schmid And Ben Clymer Discuss A. Lange & Söhne’s Watches & Wonders Novelties
Ben Clymer speaks with A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmid about the brand’s latest Watches & Wonders releases, including two new 36mm Saxonia Annual Calendars and the Lange 1 Perpetual Tourbillon Lumen. The discussion frames these launches as part of a deliberate move toward smaller, more wearable case sizes while keeping the watches legible and technically robust. Schmid also explains how years of experience refining proportions informed the 36mm decision, and touches on the dial-design challenges that come with resizing and updating cornerstone models.
Talking Time - Podcasts
Fratello On Air: Catching Up, Accutrons, And Family Additions
After a two-month break, the hosts return with a wide-ranging catch-up that mixes travel stories, personal milestones, and plenty of watch talk. Mike recaps recent trips—including Watches and Wonders—while Balazs shares the arrival of a new baby, alongside the watches that were on their wrists for those moments. They also dig into recent releases and pickups, spanning everything from an Audemars Piguet × Swatch collaboration to vintage and pre-owned finds, plus a few sneaker mentions along the way. The episode rounds out with what they’ve been watching on TV and their usual wrist-check segment.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com
[Tuesday’s auction watch, the 2025 Rolex Daytona Yellow Gold / Ceramic / Black / Oysterflex (126518LN-0008) - was bid to $28,500 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
Hublot Big Bang Unico Golf Orange 45 Carbon / Skeletonized / Strap - Limited to 100 Pieces (416.YO.1120.VR)
Auction Report: Hublot’s Wildest Mulligan: The Big Bang Unico Golf Orange Carbon Limited Edition
If there is one thing Hublot has never been accused of, it is playing it safe. The Hublot Big Bang Unico Golf Orange Carbon Limited Edition (Ref. 416.YO.1120.VR) is proof that the brand was willing to take one of the oldest sports on earth and build an entirely new mechanical complication around it. Limited to just 100 pieces worldwide, this 45mm carbon-fiber beast is less a watch and more a conversation starter for the golfer who already owns everything else.
Originally introduced as part of Hublot’s golf-focused Big Bang collection, the watch features the in-house HUB1580 automatic movement, a highly specialized caliber designed specifically for golfers. Unlike traditional complications that track elapsed time, moon phases, or chronographs, the HUB1580 allows the wearer to count strokes and track holes played during a round. A pair of putter-shaped pushers advances the stroke count and hole indicator, making this one of the few genuinely sport-specific mechanical complications produced by any Swiss watchmaker. The movement contains 358 components, operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, and delivers approximately 72 hours of power reserve. The original Big Bang Golf debuted in 2018 with a retail price of approximately $31,500, while subsequent Orange Carbon editions maintained similar positioning in Hublot’s catalog.
The Orange Carbon version may be the most striking of the bunch. The carbon fiber case incorporates orange Texalium layers that give the watch an unmistakable visual identity. The skeletonized dial reveals the golf complication in action, while bright orange accents ensure nobody mistakes this for a conservative country-club timepiece. At under 100 grams, the watch was intentionally engineered to be lightweight enough for wear during a round without interfering with a golf swing. Hublot’s One-Click strap-change system and sporty orange strap further emphasize its purpose-built nature.
From a market perspective, the Big Bang Unico Golf occupies an unusual niche. While many Hublot models have experienced significant depreciation from retail, the Golf models have retained a loyal following due to their low production numbers and genuinely unique complication. Recent market listings for the Orange Carbon edition generally range from the high teens to nearly $30,000 depending on condition, completeness, and seller. Examples with boxes, papers, literature, and extra straps—as found in this auction—typically command the strongest premiums.
This particular example presents especially well. Described as unworn, complete with box, papers, product literature, and additional straps, it offers collectors an opportunity to acquire one of Hublot’s most unusual modern creations in near-new condition. The carbon case and skeletonized architecture show virtually no signs of wear, while the complete accessory package enhances long-term collectability.
For traditionalists, a mechanical golf scorekeeper may seem unnecessary in an age of smartphone apps and GPS rangefinders. But practicality was never the point. The Big Bang Unico Golf represents the sort of wonderfully over-engineered idea that makes watch collecting fun. Nobody needed a mechanical watch that tracks your scorecard. Hublot built one anyway.
As the auction closes at 10:10 p.m. EDT tonight (June 3, 2026), bidders will have a chance to acquire one of the most creative and niche complications of the modern era. Whether you view it as horological genius or Swiss insanity likely depends on your handicap. Either way, there are only 100 of them in the world, and that alone guarantees this orange carbon curiosity will never be mistaken for just another luxury sports watch.
Current bid: $750