BuyingTime Daily - June 11, 2026
MB&F steals the spotlight with the HM12 Guardian robot watch, while new releases from Sea-Gull, Autodromo, and Makina keep collectors talking. Plus: Rolex deals and a Parmigiani auction sleeper.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
The watch world spent much of yesterday balancing heritage and imagination, with everything from historic motorsport partnerships to robot-inspired horology competing for collectors’ attention. Baume & Mercier reinforced the enduring connection between watchmaking and racing after being named Official Timekeeper of the inaugural Gran Premio Storico d’Italia at Mugello. The partnership places the brand at the center of a celebration of Formula 1’s recent golden era and continues a long tradition of Swiss watchmakers finding common ground with speed, engineering, and precision timing.
The biggest conversation piece of the day belonged to MB&F, which continued to dominate headlines with the launch of the HM12 The Guardian. Equal parts wristwatch, robot, and mechanical sculpture, the Grade 5 titanium creation pushes the boundaries of what collectors expect from haute horology. A flying tourbillon, jumping hours, trailing minutes, and an elaborate face-shield mechanism make the watch a technical spectacle, while the accompanying robot transforms the concept into something that feels more science fiction than Swiss watchmaking. Adding further depth to the story was designer Max Maertens’ detailed discussion of the creative process behind the project, offering a fascinating look at how a playful concept evolved into one of the year’s most ambitious mechanical creations.
New watch releases covered a remarkably wide spectrum of the market. Autodromo unveiled the Group C Turbo Sport, the brand’s first ana-digi watch, bringing turbo-era racing nostalgia to a lightweight and affordable package. Christiaan Van Der Klaauw looked skyward with the Venus Zodiac, an intricate astronomical timepiece that tracks the movements of celestial bodies while incorporating a zodiac display. From the Philippines, Makina introduced the Cassiel II, a brutalist chronograph that combines avant-garde design with the proven reliability of the Valjoux 7750 movement. Meanwhile, Sea-Gull refreshed one of the most beloved affordable chronographs on the market with the new 1963 Premium collection, pairing upgraded finishing and sapphire crystals with a higher-grade ST-1901 movement.
On the review front, practical everyday watches remained firmly in focus. The Casio G-Shock DW5600MNC-1 demonstrated how a simple strap upgrade can completely transform a classic design, while UNIMATIC’s titanium Modello Quattro U4S-T-LB earned praise as a lightweight, highly legible tool watch built for daytime adventure. Both reviews highlighted a recurring theme in today’s market: thoughtful execution often matters more than extravagant complications.
Comparison pieces offered useful perspective for value-minded enthusiasts. The latest Seiko 5 Sports Field Series demonstrated just how much functionality can still be found at approachable price points, while a roundup of the best chronographs of 2026 so far showcased the remarkable diversity of the category. From TAG Heuer and Seiko to Bulova, Citizen, and Timex, the chronograph remains one of the industry’s most creative and competitive segments.
Collectors hunting for bargains also received some encouragement. A market analysis suggested that select Rolex references are now trading below retail on the secondary market, a situation that would have seemed nearly impossible just a few years ago. Rising retail prices and shifting market dynamics continue to create opportunities for patient buyers willing to do their homework.
For those looking to spend some time on YouTube, the video lineup was dominated by discussions surrounding MB&F’s latest creation. Multiple creators explored the HM12 The Guardian from different angles, ranging from technical analysis to pure mechanical spectacle. Meanwhile, a separate video predicting turmoil in the broader luxury watch market sparked debate about whether collector demand and pricing trends are heading toward a significant correction.
Podcast listeners were treated to an insightful conversation with Jacob & Co. CEO Benjamin Arabov, who discussed the brand’s growth trajectory, evolving market conditions, and how independent luxury brands are navigating a rapidly changing industry landscape.
In auction news, yesterday’s H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Purple Haze reached $19,050 but failed to meet reserve, leaving interested buyers an opportunity to negotiate directly. Today’s featured auction shifts attention to the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Chronograph Granata Annual Calendar, one of the most overlooked luxury sports chronographs on the market. With its burgundy dial, annual calendar complication, manufacture PF043 movement, and independent-watchmaking pedigree, the watch offers significant substance relative to its current $10,100 bid. As bidding closes this afternoon, it may ultimately prove to be one of the better values currently available in the luxury sports watch category.
-Michael Wolf
News Time
Baume & Mercier becomes Official Timekeeper of Gran Premio Storico d’Italia
Baume & Mercier has been appointed Official Timekeeper for the inaugural Gran Premio Storico d’Italia, a historic motorsport weekend set for October 2–4, 2026 at Italy’s Mugello Circuit. Organized by HVM Racing in partnership with Ferrari Corse Clienti, the event will feature historic Formula 1 cars and drivers from the 1996–2006 era, celebrating Italy’s racing heritage. In the role, Baume & Mercier will oversee all official timing for the weekend, underscoring the shared emphasis on precision, engineering, and performance that links watchmaking and motorsport.
Feature Time
Max Maertens Dishes on His Creative Process in Designing the New MB&F HM12
Max Maertens—an emerging designer with experience at Chopard, Vacheron Constantin, Cartier, and MB&F—walks through how the HM12 “Guardian” concept became a fully realized, transformable wristwatch-robot. The piece details the watch’s technical spectacle, including a flying tourbillon “brain,” jumping hours, a double-sided micro-rotor, and a complex face-shield mechanism made from more than 200 parts. It also highlights the collaborative engineering effort behind the project (including MB&F’s team and contributions tied to Kari Voutilainen’s workshop), plus the robot’s broader functional details like a magnetic base, thermometer, and UV torch. The HM12 Guardian is presented as a deliberately playful, emotionally driven work of haute horology—limited to 36 total pieces across three colors and priced at CHF 280,000.
The Military Watch Icon: Are CWC Watches Good? What These Picks Reveal
This feature evaluates CWC through the lens of utility-first design—prioritizing legibility, durability, and purpose-built function over luxury finishing. It breaks down how different models fit different needs, from the compact, hand-wound Mellor 72 field watch to the low-maintenance SBS Diver with its robust quartz setup. The article also looks at the Sea Falcon Chronograph as a practical timing tool with a slim profile and rotating bezel versatility, while noting compromises like fixed bars that limit strap flexibility. Across the lineup, the takeaway is that CWC’s appeal lies in straightforward, serviceable tool watches that stay faithful to military-spec roots.
The Latest Time
Autodromo
Introducing the Autodromo Group C Turbo Sport, the Brand’s First Ana-Digi Watch
Autodromo’s Group C Turbo Sport channels 1980s turbo-era motorsport with a tachometer-inspired dial layout and a hybrid analog-digital display. The 38.5mm anodized-aluminum case keeps it lightweight (about 58g) while delivering practical everyday functions like three time zones, an alarm, and a 1/100-second chronograph. It’s positioned as an enthusiast-friendly nostalgia piece that blends automotive design cues with real utility rather than pure retro styling. Price: $450.
Christiaan Van Der Klaauw
First Look: The New Christiaan Van Der Klaauw Venus Zodiac
The Venus Zodiac pairs a compact 38mm case with an elaborate astronomical display that tracks the real-time positions of Venus, Earth, and the Moon via layered rotating discs. A zodiac ring and a small indicator hand show the current zodiac sign, while the moon-phase is derived from the relative positions of the celestial bodies for a more conceptually “true” display. Power comes from the in-house CKM-01 (with a base by Andreas Strehler) and a dedicated Venus module, giving the watch both technical depth and a strong artistic signature. Price: about $48,635 (steel) or about $67,403 (rose gold).
Makina
The Makina Cassiel II — A Brutalist Chronograph From The Philippines
Makina’s Cassiel II takes a design-first, brutalist approach to the chronograph, using rotating discs and cut-out displays instead of conventional sub-dials to create a sculptural, layered look. The 42mm sandblasted steel case houses the proven Valjoux/ETA 7750 automatic chronograph with roughly 44–48 hours of power reserve and 100m water resistance. It’s intended for collectors who want something visually radical but still anchored by a workhorse movement and solid specs. Price: $1,850 (presale), rising to about $2,100 later.
MB&F
First Look The New MB&F HM12 The Guardian
The HM12 The Guardian is a futuristic Grade 5 titanium Horological Machine that doubles as the “head” of a robot collaboration with L’Epée, featuring a flying tourbillon, jumping hours, and trailing minutes displayed like robotic eyes. A standout element is the face-shield mechanism—over 200 dedicated parts—that can conceal or reveal the dial, reinforcing the watch’s character as a moving mechanical object rather than a conventional wristwatch. Beyond the watch itself, the companion robot incorporates additional functions like a thermometer, loupe, and detachable UV torch, pushing the concept into kinetic horological theater. Price: about $357,784 (converted from CHF 280,000, excl. VAT).
Sea-Gull
Sea-Gull 1963 Premium
Sea-Gull’s 1963 Premium collection modernizes the classic 1963 chronograph with a larger case, sapphire crystal, and upgraded finishing aimed at improving durability and everyday wear. The big headline is the new top-grade ST-1901 movement, positioning the line as a more refined take on a historically significant, enthusiast-favorite design. Multiple dial options are offered, including a limited meteorite-dial version capped at 500 pieces, giving buyers both standard and collector-leaning choices. Price: about $829 (from £620) to about $1,312 (from £980, meteorite).
Wearing Time - Reviews
Unimatic
UNIMATIC Modello Quattro U4S-T-LB Titanium Limited Watch Review: The Daytime Tool
This review highlights UNIMATIC’s Modello Quattro U4S‑T‑LB as a daylight-optimized tool watch built around a lightweight, sandblasted grade-2 titanium case and a bold gray-and-mint color scheme. At 40mm and roughly 65g, it’s positioned as an easy-wearing, high-legibility piece with serious capability, including 300m water resistance and a flat AR-coated sapphire crystal. The “California dial” layout and the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement reinforce the blend of distinctive style and proven practicality. Price: $1,660 USD (limited to 300 pieces).
Comparing Time
The Bang-For-Buck Seiko 5 Sports Field Series Will Guide You When Lost
This comparison covers four new Seiko 5 Sports Field Series references (HDB006, HDB007, HDB008, HDB009) built around a practical compass bezel concept at an accessible price point. It highlights the tool-forward layout—large lumed Arabic numerals, day-date, a 13–24-hour scale—and the dependable 4R36 automatic movement with about 41 hours of power reserve. The piece positions the lineup as a strong value option for anyone who wants field-watch legibility and everyday ruggedness in a 41mm, 100m water-resistant package, with choices on bracelet or nylon strap. It also calls out the price spread as part of the value proposition, with strap versions cheaper than bracelet variants.
The 5 Best Chronograph Watches of 2026 So Far
This comparison rounds up five very different chronographs that collectively show how wide the category is in 2026—from high-end Swiss icons to budget-friendly quartz. It contrasts standout draws like the TAG Heuer Monaco in titanium with the TH20-11 movement against tech-forward options like Seiko’s updated Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph, then pivots to value plays including Bulova’s high-frequency Lunar Pilot “Black Hole,” Citizen’s Tube Screamer-themed Tsuno Chrono, and a Daytona-look Timex. The summary emphasizes that each pick is driven by a distinct mix of heritage, technology, or collaboration rather than one “best” formula. The overall takeaway is that 2026’s strongest chronographs span multiple price tiers without sacrificing character or purpose.
Deal Time
Five Rolex watches to buy now for below retail prices
This piece looks at the current pre-owned Rolex market and argues that, in some cases, secondary-market pricing now undercuts retail—especially as rising gold prices have pushed MSRP higher than resale listings. It cautions buyers to research real-world auction hammer prices and to factor in condition, provenance, and reference-specific details that can materially change value. Several models are highlighted as potential “below retail” opportunities, including a white-gold Daytona, a diamond-set yellow-gold Day-Date 40, an Everose Yacht-Master 40, an Everose Sky-Dweller 42, and a two-tone Datejust 41. The overall takeaway is that careful market homework can surface better value outside the authorized-dealer channel right now.
Watching Time - Videos
The Watch Market Is On The BRINK Of Collapse - YouTube - Luxury Secret
The video argues the watch market is nearing a major downturn, driven by oversupply, shifting buyer behavior, and broader economic pressure. It frames falling demand and weakening prices as signals that the scarcity-and-hype model is losing effectiveness. The takeaway is that collectors and investors may need to rethink buying strategies, while brands and retailers adjust to a more volatile, less predictable market environment.
MB&F - HM12 The Guardian Movie - YouTube - MB&F
This video showcases MB&F’s HM12 “The Guardian” as a boundary-pushing mechanical object that blends futuristic design with complex horology. It focuses on the watch’s sculptural engineering and the way its mechanics are meant to be experienced visually, not just read for time. The presentation positions the HM12 as both a functional timepiece and an artistic statement intended to reshape expectations of what modern watchmaking can look like.
HM12 The Guardian: Meet MB&F’s Latest Machine - YouTube - Revolution Watch
The video presents the HM12 launch as a major moment in haute horology, emphasizing MB&F’s mix of avant-garde design and high-complexity mechanics. It frames the HM12 as a forward-looking benchmark piece—less about tradition and more about redefining what a mechanical watch can be. The segment highlights the brand’s technical ambition and the HM12’s role as a statement product within the modern luxury watch space.
This $350’000 Watch Turns Into a Robot - YouTube - Swiss Watch Gang
This video centers on a six-figure concept that merges high-end watchmaking with a transformable robot format, emphasizing the engineering spectacle behind the transformation. It portrays the piece as an example of luxury shifting toward interactive, kinetic experiences rather than purely static craftsmanship. The overall tone is that this is a glimpse at where ultra-high-end “wearable objects” might go when horology and mechanical showmanship fully collide.
Talking Time - Podcasts
The Business of Watches Podcast: Benjamin Arabov, CEO Of Jacob & Co.
This episode looks at Jacob & Co.’s recent momentum, including how the brand reportedly grew sales and volume in 2025 against broader industry headwinds. It also highlights the kind of visibility that has helped fuel that growth, such as notable public appearances of Jacob & Co. watches, while discussing operational perspective from CEO Benjamin Arabov on production scale and strategic direction. The conversation widens to current watch-industry challenges, including shifting market dynamics and pressure on major Swiss players. Listeners are also invited to submit business-focused questions for an upcoming Q&A.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com
[Wednesday’s auction watch, the 2026 H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Centre Seconds 40 Steel / Purple Haze Fumé / Bracelet (6201-1201) - was bid to $19,050 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2026 Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Chronograph / Granata / Rubber (PFC906-1020002-400181)
Parmigiani’s Hidden Gem: The Tonda GT Chronograph Granata Annual Calendar
Among modern luxury sports watches, few pieces fly under the radar quite like the 2026 Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Chronograph Granata. While collectors continue chasing the usual suspects from larger brands, Parmigiani Fleurier has quietly built one of the most sophisticated and technically impressive integrated sports watch collections on the market. The Tonda GT Chronograph reference PFC906-1020002-400181 is a perfect example of why the brand has developed such a devoted following among seasoned enthusiasts.
Originally introduced as part of Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tonda GT collection, the Granata version stands out with its distinctive burgundy-toned dial and matching rubber strap. The design combines the elegance of the brand’s dress-watch heritage with the practicality of a modern luxury sports watch. The 42mm stainless steel case features the signature knurled bezel and flowing integrated profile that have become hallmarks of the Tonda family. Unlike many competitors in the category, the watch manages to feel both sporty and refined, making it equally comfortable under a cuff or on a weekend getaway. The Granata colorway was one of the most attractive releases in the collection and remains one of the less common configurations available on the secondary market today.
What truly elevates this reference is its movement. Inside beats Parmigiani’s automatic PF043 caliber, a sophisticated manufacture movement that combines a chronograph with an annual calendar complication. The watch displays hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph functions, a large date, and month indication while maintaining a remarkably balanced dial layout. The annual calendar automatically adjusts for months with 30 and 31 days, requiring correction only once per year. This combination of complications is uncommon in the luxury sports watch segment and gives the Tonda GT Chronograph a level of functionality that exceeds many of its direct competitors. The movement is visible through a sapphire caseback and features a beautifully executed 22-karat gold rotor.
The example offered in this auction dates to 2026 and includes both the original box and papers. Condition is described as pre-owned with minor wear to the case and strap, while the dial, hands, crystal, and movement presentation remain excellent. Given the watch’s stainless steel construction and sport-oriented design, light wear is expected and should not materially affect collector interest.
From a market perspective, the Tonda GT Chronograph represents an intriguing value proposition. The reference originally retailed near the $20,000 mark when introduced, placing it firmly within the competitive luxury sports watch segment. Recent secondary-market offerings for the same reference have ranged from approximately $19,500 for full-set examples in excellent condition to lower asking prices around the $12,000–$13,000 range depending on condition, seller motivation, and market timing. Most well-preserved examples currently trade in the mid-to-high teens, making this one of the more affordable paths into a genuine haute horlogerie sports chronograph from an independent Swiss manufacturer.
For collectors seeking something different from the usual integrated-bracelet crowd, the Tonda GT Chronograph Granata offers a compelling alternative. It delivers genuine mechanical sophistication, distinctive styling, and the exclusivity that comes with wearing a watch many enthusiasts may recognize but few will actually own. Parmigiani Fleurier has spent decades building its reputation through craftsmanship and movement development rather than marketing hype, and this reference reflects that philosophy perfectly.
As bidding closes at 12:20 p.m. EDT today (Thursday, June 11, 2026), this Tonda GT Chronograph may prove to be one of the more overlooked opportunities on the auction calendar. For the collector who appreciates independent watchmaking and wants a luxury sports chronograph with real substance behind its beautiful exterior, this Granata-dial Parmigiani deserves a very close look.
Current bid: $10,100