BuyingTime Daily - June 1, 2026
Gucci races into F1, new releases roar, and AP’s Starwheel glows at auction in today’s Time Graphing watch universe.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Today’s watch world feels a bit like Monaco during Grand Prix week: luxury brands are racing for attention, collectors are chasing the unusual, and everyone seems to be trying to figure out where the next big opportunity lies. The biggest headline comes from Gucci’s surprising move into Formula One, where the fashion giant has reportedly committed roughly $50 million annually to become title sponsor of Alpine’s F1 team. The creation of “Gucci Racing” signals that luxury brands increasingly see motorsport as a gateway to younger audiences and future collectors. Closer to home for watch enthusiasts, Weston Jewelers scored approval for what could become America’s largest watch and jewelry destination, a massive Rolex-anchored showroom planned for Fort Lauderdale that promises to turn Las Olas into an even more important stop on the luxury watch map.
Among the features worth reading today, the deep dive into Roventa-Henex offers a fascinating look behind the curtain at one of Switzerland’s most important white-label manufacturers. Producing more than 100,000 watches annually for dozens of brands, it serves as a reminder that many of the watches collectors admire owe their existence to companies that never appear on the dial. Elsewhere, the history of Indian watchmaking highlights the rise of HMT, Titan, and a growing ecosystem of ambitious independent brands, while an examination of the Peacock Divine Ultra-Thin Tourbillon demonstrates just how rapidly Chinese watchmaking continues to advance. There is also plenty of personality on display, from KISS drummer Eric Singer helping Blancpain compose a custom sonnerie melody to actor Russell Crowe enthusiastically discussing Parmigiani Fleurier.
New watch releases were plentiful. Favre Leuba delivered a bright orange revival of its Deep Raider diver, Frederique Constant finally entered the solar-powered arena with the surprisingly attractive Solarmetre, and Jaeger-LeCoultre expanded its Reverso Tribute line with the gem-set and Art Deco-inspired Or Deco collection. Kollokium continued its reputation for unconventional design with the Projekt 02 Variant C “Cooler Waters,” while Parmigiani Fleurier celebrated its 30th anniversary with the breathtaking Carillon Tourbillon Anniversaire, a highly complicated minute repeater and flying tourbillon combination that reminds collectors exactly why the brand has become one of the industry’s most respected independent voices.
On the review side, the affordable and charming Arcange Selenograph moonphase earned attention alongside the bold CIGA Design Skeleton Falcon. Vintage military enthusiasts will appreciate the return of the 36mm Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical, while luxury collectors can admire the artistry behind the Hermès Arceau Samarcande minute repeater and the latest Roger Dubuis Excalibur Lady of the Lake. NORQAIN combined meteorite and durability in the Wild ONE Maroon Meteorite, while Vacheron Constantin continued to demonstrate why the Overseas remains one of the strongest integrated-bracelet sports watches available today. Even Versace made a respectable showing with the thin and stylish Greca Logo Aero.
The comparison pieces were equally entertaining. Fratello’s look back at iconic 1980s watches serves as a reminder that many of today’s hottest trends are simply reruns of ideas from four decades ago. A separate examination of innovative chronographs showcased just how much creativity remains in the category, while the battle between the Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop and Omega × Swatch MoonSwatch highlighted the continuing debate between technical novelty and mass-market appeal. Meanwhile, an editorial questioning whether hype alone can sustain Swatch provides plenty of food for thought as the brand continues to lean heavily on blockbuster collaborations.
For video viewing, collectors should make time for the Miami Watch Club discussion exploring why serious enthusiasts often gravitate toward A. Lange & Söhne over Rolex, along with Harrison Elmore’s enthusiastic review of the Grand Seiko Moonlit Birch. Revolution’s presentation of the Chopard L.U.C Quattro Revolution Re-edition is also worth a watch, while The 1916 Company delivers an enjoyable tour through the world of independent watchmaking.
At auction, last week’s Zenith Defy Chronograph USM 37 Limited Edition reached $5,200 but failed to meet reserve, suggesting an interested market but perhaps not enough urgency. The current spotlight falls on the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel, one of the most intriguing modern interpretations of the wandering-hours complication. With a retail price north of $65,000 and secondary-market values generally residing well above the current $15,250 bid, it remains one of the more fascinating opportunities currently available. The Starwheel continues to prove that Audemars Piguet can still surprise collectors when it ventures beyond the familiar confines of the Royal Oak.
—Michael Wolf
News Time
Gucci muscles in on LVMH’s Formula 1 track position
Gucci has become the headline sponsor for Alpine’s Formula One team, creating a new “Gucci Racing” brand that links luxury fashion with motorsport. Reportedly worth about $50 million per year, the partnership makes Gucci the first luxury fashion house to serve as a title partner for an F1 team. Beyond on-car and trackside visibility, the deal is designed to extend into content, product collaborations, and high-end client experiences. The move also targets Formula One’s expanding global reach and its growing younger (and increasingly female) audience to build long-term brand desirability.
Weston Jewelers wins planning battle for Rolex mega-showroom
Weston Jewelers has won approval in Fort Lauderdale to develop a 40,707-square-foot, five-storey Rolex-anchored showroom on Las Olas, with an expected opening in late 2027. The project is planned to include more than 30,500 square feet of retail across three floors, a rooftop café, corporate offices, and a dedicated Rolex area on the ground floor. Public feedback at the planning meeting leaned strongly supportive, though some concerns were raised around height, traffic, and design. Once built, the development aims to draw more visitors to east Las Olas and position itself as the largest watch and jewellery emporium in the United States.
Feature Time
Inside the Watchmaker Behind the Brands, Roventa-Henex
Roventa‑Henex runs a quiet white‑label watchmaking operation in Tavannes, Switzerland, producing over 100,000 watches a year for roughly 50 brands. It supports clients end-to-end—design and prototyping, sourcing, logistics, quality control, assembly, and after‑sales—while keeping each watch at least 60% Swiss value through a mixed Swiss/Asian supplier network. The company’s roots stretch back to Tavannes’ 19th‑century boom, with Roventa and Henex merging in 1972 and later transitioning to majority ownership under Jérôme Biard and Philippe Merk. Its flexibility and deep technical testing capabilities (including extreme water‑resistance validation) make it a key partner for brands that want Swiss‑made output without building a full factory.
Russell Crowe gushes over Parmigiani, Czapek releases new documentary, TAG Heuer announces new INDYCAR brand partner
This roundup spotlights three headlines: Russell Crowe sharing enthusiasm for Parmigiani Fleurier (via a TikTok and a longer YouTube interview), Czapek releasing a feature-length documentary on its modern revival, and TAG Heuer naming INDYCAR champion Álex Palou as a new brand partner. The Czapek film, “An Unexpected Renaissance,” frames the brand’s first decade with candid behind‑the‑scenes access. The piece then widens into a broader weekend wind‑down of notable releases and observations, including the ultra‑light Formex Aria and additional updates from brands like Breitling and Seiko. Overall it’s designed as a video-and-links guide to what’s worth watching and reading right now.
The ABCs of Time: The History of Indian Watchmaking
Indian watchmaking gained real momentum after independence, especially once HMT partnered with Citizen and opened a Bengaluru factory in 1961, turning the brand into a national staple. After HMT’s decline and eventual closure in 2016, Titan—launched by the Tata Group in 1984—scaled rapidly with accessible quartz watches, strong retail strategy, and continued technical ambition. The modern landscape is now broadened by micro‑brands such as Ajwain, Jaipur, Coromandel, and Bangalore Watch Company, which lean into local heritage and novel engineering (including space‑qualified pieces). Today, Titan ranks among the world’s biggest producers, showing how India’s market spans mass production and an emerging high-end scene.
Exploring Chinese Watchmaking, with the Peacock Divine Ultra-Thin Tourbillon
This story uses the Peacock Divine Craft ultra‑thin tourbillon as a lens on how far Chinese watchmaking has progressed, from early industrial beginnings to increasingly refined modern output. The watch pairs a 39.5mm 904L steel case with a heavily micro‑engraved dial offered in multiple colors, presenting a level of detailing aimed at competing with entry‑level Swiss tourbillons. Inside is Peacock’s in‑house, hand‑wound Calibre PAX9610A—just 3.5mm tall—with a flying tourbillon and premium finishing techniques such as perlage and Côtes de Genève. Limited to 108 pieces and priced at $4,899, it positions itself as a serious value proposition in complicated watchmaking.
Kiss Drummer Eric Singer Talks About The Blancpain Melody He Composed
Blancpain enlisted KISS drummer Eric Singer to compose a new four‑note melody for its Grande Double Sonnerie, an ultra‑complicated watch combining sonnerie functions, a minute repeater, tourbillon, and perpetual calendar. Because the tune had to be built from the four notes associated with Westminster chimes, Singer and Derek Sherinian experimented extensively before selecting a final sequence that was both distinct and repeatable. Wearers can switch between the traditional chime pattern and Singer’s custom melody, underscoring how sound design becomes part of a watch’s identity at this level. The piece also highlights Singer’s first-hand exposure to the painstaking gong‑tuning process and the shared discipline between musical timing and mechanical precision.
Watch Strap Review 73 — The Amazing Ming Polymesh
The Ming Polymesh bracelet is a 3D‑printed Grade 5 titanium mesh made via Direct Metal Laser Sintering, producing a seamless structure that behaves almost like fabric on the wrist. Because it’s built layer-by-layer rather than machined like conventional links, it can achieve a distinctive blend of strength, flexibility, and extremely low weight—about 21 grams. The strap comes in curved and straight versions and is positioned as broadly wearable beyond Ming watches, emphasizing versatility. At CHF 1,500, the review argues the price is rooted in advanced manufacturing, premium material, comfort, and a look that’s hard to replicate with traditional methods.
WatchPro sits down with Hollywood star Patrick Dempsey
Patrick Dempsey discusses how professional motorsport has become a serious second track alongside acting, including competing at events like the 24 Hours of Le Mans. He describes his long-running relationship with TAG Heuer—beginning with sponsorship of his race team in 2014—as an authentic partnership shaped by shared values of heritage, innovation, and accessibility. Dempsey frames watches as memory objects, calling out pieces like the Monaco worn on the Le Mans podium as carrying personal history rather than just financial value. He also notes a growing preference for vintage and limited editions, and hopes TAG Heuer continues innovating while elevating design leadership under CEO Béatrice Goasglas.
The Unlikely Watch Collector: Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren’s watch collection is presented as an extension of a broader lifestyle vision, mixing classic icons with unexpected modern pieces. The assortment spans heritage staples like Cartier Tanks and serious tool or military-adjacent watches, alongside more futuristic, design-forward choices such as Urwerk and an early depth-gauge Citizen. Rather than collecting for hype, the narrative emphasizes how each watch aligns with personal style and a sense of generational continuity in design. The result is an eclectic but coherent portrait of a tastemaker using watches the way Lauren uses fashion—storytelling through objects.
Inside the Collecting World of Lex Borrero, Miami Watch Club President
Lex Borrero describes how early exposure to counterfeit watches on Canal Street planted the idea that watches communicate identity—eventually motivating a genuine collecting journey. He recounts buying a first Rolex while working and traveling, then struggling financially but refusing to give it up, turning the watch into a personal symbol of persistence. The profile highlights standout pieces that mark different phases of his taste, including a Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence and an Audemars Piguet skeleton perpetual calendar Royal Oak that came with significant trade-offs. Throughout, Borrero emphasizes how community—especially through the Miami Watch Club—has become as meaningful as the watches themselves.
What Makes A Truly Elegant Everyday Watch?
This article argues that Parmigiani Fleurier has carved out a distinct lane by delivering understated everyday elegance backed by serious finishing and movement quality. It points to designs like the Tonda PF and Toric, where proportion, comfort, and subtle detailing (knurled bezels, fine dial work, restrained branding) create versatility across formal and casual contexts. The brand’s technical depth is reinforced through its in-house movement capability via Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, aligning aesthetics with mechanical credibility. The takeaway is that true daily elegance comes from ergonomics and craft rather than loud signals of status.
The Latest Time
Favre Leuba
The Favre Leuba Deep Raider Revival Orange, a Colourful and Sporty Retro Diver
Favre Leuba revives its 1970s Deep Raider diver with a vivid orange-forward palette, pairing a 39mm steel case and unidirectional bezel with a grey dial punched up by orange accents and a crosshair layout. Legibility stays front and center thanks to bold hands, applied markers, and Super-LumiNova, plus the watch comes on an integrated five-link bracelet with an additional orange fabric strap for extra sport appeal. Inside is the automatic FLD01 caliber (based on La Joux-Perret’s G100) delivering a 68-hour power reserve, while water resistance is rated to 300 meters for true dive capability. Price: $3,200.
Frederique Constant
The Affordable Luxury Brand Frederique Constant Finally Made a Solar Watch
Frederique Constant enters solar territory for the first time with the Solarmetre, powered by the FC-120 solar quartz movement developed with La Joux-Perret. Photovoltaic cells sit beneath a translucent dial, where a minute of light can deliver a day of running, and a full charge can last up to ten months in darkness—aimed at solving the “dress watch not worn daily” problem. The 39mm case keeps things slim at 8.52mm and is offered in ice blue, burgundy, or cloud white, each supplied with both a leather strap and a Milanese bracelet. Price: $1,467.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface “Or Deco” Series
Jaeger-LeCoultre expands the Reverso Tribute Monoface with an “Or Deco” series that leans hard into Art Deco glamour via gold cases, Milanese mesh bracelets, and gemstone-set references. The lineup includes limited editions in white gold set with sapphires or emeralds and a pink-gold ruby version, alongside cleaner non-gem alternatives and a simplified Solo Tempo variant without small seconds. All models run the hand-wound caliber 822 with a 42-hour power reserve, preserving the Reverso’s signature flipping case architecture. Price examples called out include $52,500(white-gold gem-set) and $42,700 (pink-gold non-gem).
Kollokium
The Kollokium Projekt 02 Variant C “Cooler Waters” Edition
Kollokium’s Projekt 02 Variant C “Cooler Waters” is built around a dramatic topographical dial made from 67 hand-painted plates, stacked into layered turquoise waves with luminous accents for nighttime impact. The 39mm monobloc 316L steel case has a compact, industrial feel, matched with a bright elastic textile strap that echoes the dial’s palette, while water resistance is 50 meters. Power comes from the La Joux-Perret G101 automatic movement, beating at 4 Hz and offering a 68-hour reserve. Limited to 250 pieces, the price is about $4,683 (converted from CHF 3,666.66, excl. VAT).
Micromilspec x Black Badge
The Countdown is on to Get the Next Chapter in Micromilspec x Black Badger’s Time Wars: the Broken Hour
Micromilspec and Black Badger continue their Time Wars concept with the Broken Hour, a watch sold only in a limited 24-hour order window and paired with a comic book that extends its anime-inspired storyline. The 42mm steel case houses a dual-time GMT movement (Sellita SW330-2) and adds distinctive “broken” handset details—right down to the damaged GMT hand and blasted date window—backed by heavy Super-LumiNova for maximum visual drama in the dark. The project is as much about collectible narrative packaging as it is about hardware, turning the watch into a story artifact that won’t be produced again after the window closes. Price ranges from $1,950 (rubber strap) to $2,200(steel bracelet).
Parmigiani Fleurier
The Parmigiani Fleurier Carillon Tourbillon Anniversaire
Parmigiani Fleurier marks its 30th anniversary with the Carillon Tourbillon Anniversaire, a minute repeater with a flying tourbillon in a polished 18k white-gold case measuring 41.6mm. The watch is engineered around sound—using serpentine gongs and a case architecture tuned for resonance—while the PF950 movement packs 456 components and an unusually long 10-day power reserve. Visual drama comes through a hand-hammered Morning Blue dial and a sapphire-backed view of high-end finishing, including hand beveling and detailed decoration. Price is available upon request.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Arcange
Arcange Selenograph
The Arcange Selenograph CM02 Ice Blue revives the feel of classic 1950s calendar watches with a modern microbrand approach, pairing a triple-calendar display, moon phase, and pointer date with a compact 38.5mm steel case. Its vintage-leaning details—drop-shaped lugs, a narrow bezel, and a tall sapphire crystal—frame a dial that mixes guilloché-style textures with polished numerals for a dressy, mid-century look. Power comes from a Miyota 9015 base movement fitted with a custom module, aiming to keep the complication approachable while remaining practical for everyday wear. Price: about $666 USD (converted from €571).
CIGA Design
CIGA Design Bring Maximalist Energy to the Skeleton Falcon
The Skeleton Falcon leans into a bold, industrial style with a large 43.5mm case and an openworked layout that puts the in-house CD-02 automatic movement front and center. Its layered construction, mixed finishing, and gear-like detailing give it the visual impact of far more expensive skeleton watches, while still being designed as a wearable bracelet watch. The appeal here is the combination of complexity and affordability—an intentionally “maximalist” take that doesn’t try to be subtle. Price: $499 USD.
Hamilton
Hands-On: Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm – The Return Of A Vintage Military Legend
Hamilton brings back the 36mm Khaki Field Mechanical as a faithful nod to the brand’s Vietnam-era military lineage, keeping the classic proportions and straightforward tool-watch readability. The modern upgrade is the hand-wound H-50 movement (ETA-based) with an 80-hour power reserve, along with a toughened spec that includes 100m water resistance. It’s positioned as a clean, functional everyday field watch with strong heritage cues—especially the vintage-style logo and no-nonsense dial layout. Price: $725 USD.
Hermès
Hermès Arceau Samarcande
The Arceau Samarcande ties Hermès’ equestrian roots to serious haute horlogerie, using a distinctive horse-shaped dial opening and a refined 38mm case to frame a minute repeater built around three gongs and three hammers. Inside is the self-winding Manufacture H1297 with a micro-rotor and detailed finishing, designed to balance visual elegance with mechanical credibility. The watch is offered in precious-metal variations (including diamond-set options) and emphasizes clean design while still showcasing its repeater architecture through sapphire. Price: about $329,770 USD(converted from £245,000).
Nomos
NOMOS Twice Unique
NOMOS Twice Unique is built around the idea of paired watches—one in steel and one in 18k gold—echoing historical “Chinese watches” that were often acquired as matched sets. The concept becomes a platform for creative dial experimentation, with designs ranging from textile-like sketches to more graphic and artistic motifs, while still using NOMOS’ established in-house cases and movements. The overall message is democratic design with a playful edge: small-batch creativity without turning the watches into untouchable, one-off art pieces. Price: not listed.
NORQAIN
NORQAIN Wild ONE Maroon Meteorite Special-Edition Watch With Real Space Metal Hands-On
This Wild ONE special edition pairs NORQAIN’s rugged, shock-resistant case construction with a genuine meteorite dial, giving the watch a distinctive maroon-burgundy personality and a naturally patterned surface. The 42mm carbon-blend case and 200m water resistance keep it firmly in the “go anywhere” category, while the Kenissi-made NN20/1 automatic movement adds COSC certification and a 70-hour reserve. It’s positioned as a premium materials play that still prioritizes durability and daily usability rather than fragility. Price: $7,750 USD.
Roger Dubuis
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Lady Of The Lake Sylvan Green Watch With New 36mm Case Hands-On
Roger Dubuis introduces a new 36mm Excalibur case designed with women’s sizing in mind, presented here in an 18k rose-gold, diamond-set execution with a vivid green, lake-inspired dial. The dial work leans heavily into artistry—lacquer painting and mother-of-pearl marquetry—while the RD830 automatic movement provides a 48-hour reserve and a distinctive seconds display via a moving disc. It’s less about extreme complication and more about bold, high-jewelry impact paired with an in-house mechanical core. Price: $62,500 USD.
Squale
Squale Sub 37 Legend Review: Your One-and-Done Vintage-Inspired Dive Watch?
The Sub 37 Legend aims to be a compact, vintage-inspired diver that avoids overdoing faux-aged theatrics, instead focusing on balanced proportions and solid execution. At 37mm wide and only 11.2mm thick, it’s designed to wear easily while still delivering proper dive spec with 300m water resistance and a double-domed sapphire crystal. The Sellita SW200-1 keeps things straightforward and serviceable, and the overall package is framed as an everyday diver with thoughtful restraint. Price: $1,750 USD.
Vacheron Constantin
Review: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points new for 2026 :
The Overseas Dual Time “Cardinal Points” set brings a full-titanium travel watch platform in four dial colors tied to the compass directions, combining a second time zone display with a 24-hour indicator and date. It runs the Caliber 5110 DT/3 with Geneva Seal finishing, and includes a titanium bracelet plus two interchangeable rubber straps to emphasize versatility. The appeal is the mix of lightweight wear, refined finishing, and a practical dual-time layout inside a highly collectible Overseas framework. Price: about $43,045 USD (converted from CHF 33,700).
Versace
Versace Greca Logo Aero Hands-On: Trendy Thin Quartz Watch With Italian Styling
The Greca Logo Aero is a fashion-forward quartz watch built around a thin 39mm case, a vivid green patterned dial, and strong Versace identity through the Greca motif on the bezel. Practical specs are solid for the category—Swiss Ronda quartz movement, sapphire crystal, and 50m water resistance—aimed at everyday wear rather than collecting pedigree. Offered in two-tone or full-gold-tone looks, it targets buyers who want high-design presence without mechanical-watch pricing. Price: $1,595 USD (two-tone) or $1,695 USD (all gold-tone).
Comparing Time
Fratello’s Top 5 Iconic Watches From The 1980s
This piece rounds up five watches that helped define the bold, tech-forward style of the 1980s, spanning both quartz breakthroughs and resurgent mechanical icons. It highlights designs like the Omega Constellation Manhattan with its signature “claws,” the two-tone Rolex Datejust as a decade-defining status symbol, and the TAG Heuer S/el associated with Ayrton Senna. The list also includes the Breitling Chronomat’s aviation-rooted comeback and the Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph with its wave bracelet and pop-culture visibility. Along the way, it notes how values have climbed, with examples now commonly ranging from roughly €1,000 to €5,000 depending on model and condition.
Six Of The Most Innovative Chronograph Watches In Recent Times
This comparison showcases six modern chronographs that push beyond traditional layouts through engineering-first innovation. Examples range from A. Lange & Söhne’s Triple Split (expanding split timing complexity) to Audemars Piguet’s RD#5 concept that rethinks activation mechanics for a more immediate feel. It also calls out solutions like TAG Heuer’s Evergraph approach to reducing friction and part count, and Parmigiani Fleurier’s discreet monopusher concept that hides the chronograph until it’s needed. Ultra-thin integration (Bulgari) and multi-mode dual-chronograph architecture (MB&F) round out a snapshot of how varied—and ambitious—recent chronograph development has become.
Sunday Morning Showdown: Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop Vs. Omega × Swatch Speedmaster MoonSwatch
This showdown pits two Swatch mega-collaborations against each other: the Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop, which leans into mechanical ambition and playful desk-clock-style presentation, and the Omega × Swatch MoonSwatch, a wearable quartz chronograph that democratizes Speedmaster aesthetics. The article contrasts positioning and value—Royal Pop at roughly €385–€400 with extra technical flair, versus MoonSwatch around €275 with broader everyday simplicity. It also discusses the hype cycle both projects generated, from crowded store launches to debates about what collaborations do to brand perception. Readers are ultimately nudged to weigh “technical creativity” against “mass appeal” and vote accordingly.
Comparing The New Titanium Unimatic Modello Quattro UT4-U-TI-GMT To The Stainless Steel UT4-GMT
This comparison breaks down how Unimatic’s new titanium UT4-U-TI-GMT updates the steel UT4-GMT while keeping the same overall dimensions and quartz GMT platform. The titanium case reduces weight and shifts the look to a darker, sandblasted finish, while larger Arabic numerals and orange accents improve clarity and add energy without the prior “MIL-STD-810” text. Under the hood, it retains the Swiss Ronda quartz GMT movement and emphasizes practicality with an anti-shock system, long battery life, and a tough nylon strap. The titanium model is positioned as a more comfortable, more legible evolution of the same tool-watch concept.
Editorial Time
Pondering Swatch’s Relevance: Is Adrenaline-Fueled Hype Enough To Remain A Player In The Watch Game?
This editorial examines how Swatch has stayed culturally relevant by turning collaborations into hype-driven “events,” blending its accessible, colorful identity with the prestige of luxury partners. It points to collaborations like the Omega MoonSwatch, Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop as attention magnets that have fueled frenzied launches and resale speculation. At the same time, it argues that not every collab can replicate the MoonSwatch effect, and that hype alone is a fragile strategy if the product-market fit isn’t right. The takeaway is that Swatch’s future success may hinge on choosing partners that amplify its mass appeal without weakening the luxury brands’ equity—potentially through new alliances, even outside traditional watchmaking.
Event Time
Happenings: Roger W. Smith OBE To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
Roger W. Smith OBE will give a June 2026 lecture at the Horological Society of New York, focusing on the evolution of the co-axial escapement from George Daniels’ early experiments through its modern iterations. The talk will cover Smith’s own involvement, including the Millennium Watch project and the debut of Omega’s first co-axial wristwatch in 1999. It will also address later technical refinements—such as the move toward greater durability and stability, and longer service intervals—culminating in developments like the single-wheel co-axial. Ticket access rolls out by HSNY membership tier before opening to the public, and recordings will be available to members first, then publicly after a delay.
Deal Time
Bring a Loupe: A Polerouter Super, A Movado Bill Time, A Vintage Rolex Sub, And A Louis Vuitton Monterey II
This “Bring a Loupe” roundup pulls together several notable watches showing up in Hodinkee’s market coverage, mixing recent results with upcoming auction highlights. It calls out pieces like a Universal Genève Polerouter Super (noted for its robust 300m water resistance), a colorful Movado “Bill Time” tied to Max Bill’s design language, and a vintage Rolex Submariner ref. 16800, framing each with quick context on why it matters. The selection also includes more offbeat or value-leaning picks—like a Rotary Compressor Diver—and the polarizing-but-distinct Louis Vuitton Monterey II. Overall, it’s a concise snapshot of what’s attracting attention across different corners of the vintage and collector market right now.
Watching Time - Videos
Why REAL Collectors Buy A. Lange & Söhne Over Rolex - YouTube - ᴢᴇʀᴏ ᴛᴏ ꜱɪxᴛʏ
Lex Borrero and CJ (ON TIME / Miami Watch Club) sit down with collector Jonathan Alfonso to unpack why some collectors prioritize A. Lange & Söhne over more hype-driven brands like Rolex. Jonathan explains how emotionally meaningful watches—tied to family and personal milestones—shape a collection more than status signaling. The conversation also touches on lessons learned from past purchases, and how waitlists and market conditions pushed collectors to look beyond authorized dealers and explore the secondary market. Overall, the episode frames Lange as a deeply personal choice driven by finishing, quality, and long-term significance.
I Didn’t Expect to Love This This Much - YouTube - Harrison Elmore
This review centers on the Grand Seiko SLGW007 “Moonlit Birch,” which the reviewer bought after trading out of a different Grand Seiko to keep a one-watch-per-brand approach. The focus is less on the dial hype and more on the engineering: the thin, wearable case proportions and the hand-wound high-beat Caliber 9SA4 with a long power reserve. The reviewer praises the understated dark dial and the overall comfort and refinement, while flagging the low water resistance as the main drawback. Despite that critique, the tone is strongly enthusiastic—so much so that the reviewer is tempted to travel with it just to keep it on the wrist.
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Revolution Re-edition - YouTube - Revolution Watch
Wei Koh and Constant Kwong introduce the Chopard L.U.C Quattro Revolution Re-edition as a collaboration that’s been “25 years in the making.” The video spotlights the Quattro caliber and its four-barrel architecture, emphasizing the technical rationale behind the model’s long power reserve. Framed as a limited release tied to Revolution and Chopard, it’s presented as both a mechanical statement and a milestone piece within the L.U.C line. The overall takeaway is a concise enthusiast-focused overview of why the Quattro concept matters and why this edition is notable.
Beyond the Mainstream: Exploring Unique Watches from Independent Brands - YouTube - The 1916 Company
Tim and Armand make the case for independent brands by highlighting how they often take bigger aesthetic and technical risks than mainstream luxury players. They run through a wide price spectrum—calling out accessible standouts like NOMOS and Sinn, then moving into more experimental makers and higher-end independents with unconventional mechanics and design language. The discussion also includes instrument- and automotive-inspired brands, focusing on displays like jump hours and retrogrades that bring extra personality to the wrist. The theme throughout is that independent brands can offer strong value, originality, and a more distinctive collecting experience.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com
[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2025 Zenith Defy Chronograph USM 37 Steel / Green / Bracelet - Limited to 60 Pieces (03.A780.400-2/91.M3642) - was bid to $5,200 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel 41 Rose Gold / Black Aventurine / Arabic / Strap (15212NR.OO.A002KB.01-AB)
Auction Report: The Starwheel Strikes Back
For years, the Code 11.59 collection lived in the long shadow of the Royal Oak. Then Audemars Piguet did something unexpected: it reached into its archives, dusted off one of the most unusual complications in modern watchmaking, and gave it a starring role. The result is the Code 11.59 Starwheel Ref. 15212NR.OO.A002KB.01-AB, a watch that manages to be futuristic, historical and just a little bit weird all at the same time.
The Starwheel traces its roots back to Audemars Piguet’s wandering-hours watches of the early 1990s, themselves inspired by a centuries-old method of displaying time. Instead of traditional hands, three rotating sapphire discs carry the hour numerals across a 120-degree minute track before disappearing and beginning their journey again. In this latest interpretation, Audemars Piguet places the complication against a black aventurine backdrop that resembles a star-filled night sky, making the display look more like a miniature planetarium than a wristwatch.
This particular reference, introduced in 2025, combines an 18-karat rose gold case with a black ceramic mid-case, a pairing that has become one of the signature looks of the modern Code 11.59 family. The 41mm case wears surprisingly well thanks to the collection’s complex architecture, while the in-house selfwinding Caliber 4310 provides a healthy 70-hour power reserve and serves as the foundation for the wandering-hours module. The movement is visible through the sapphire caseback and offers the kind of finishing collectors expect from one of Switzerland’s most prestigious manufactures.
From a market perspective, the Starwheel occupies an interesting niche. The current retail price is approximately $65,700, while secondary market examples have generally traded from the high-$50,000 range into the low-$70,000 range depending on condition and availability. Recent dealer listings have frequently clustered between $64,000 and $76,000, suggesting that demand remains healthy for one of Audemars Piguet’s most distinctive non-Royal Oak offerings.
The example crossing the auction block is a full-set watch with box and papers and appears to be in strong overall condition, with only minor signs of wear noted on the case and strap. The dial, hands and crystal are reported to be excellent, which matters because the visual magic of the Starwheel lives almost entirely on that spectacular aventurine display. Assuming bidding remains within the prevailing secondary-market range, this feels like one of the more interesting modern Audemars Piguet purchases available today. It isn’t another Royal Oak. It isn’t trying to be. It is a mechanical conversation piece that reminds collectors that Audemars Piguet’s history extends well beyond octagonal bezels and integrated bracelets.
As the auction heads toward its Monday closing, the Starwheel remains exactly what it was designed to be: a watch for collectors who already own the obvious choices and want something that will cause fellow enthusiasts to stop, stare and ask, “What on earth is that?” In a hobby increasingly dominated by familiar designs, that may be the highest compliment a watch can receive.
Current bid: $15,250