BuyingTime Daily - January 9, 2025
Rolex price hikes, chronograph history, daring independents, sharp new releases, and a savvy Patek Philippe Travel Time auction to watch.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Today’s edition of Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe opens with a sober reminder that higher prices do not automatically translate into better investments. Rolex’s roughly 7 percent retail price increase for 2026, with gold models climbing closer to 9 percent, reinforces the brand’s luxury positioning but also highlights a familiar market reality: precious-metal references continue to lag stainless steel on the secondary market. As prices rise, collectors are again nudged toward steel models, which historically absorb inflation far more gracefully than their gold counterparts.
From there, the issue leans into context and craft. A deep dive into the history of the chronograph traces the complication from Louis Moinet’s 19th-century astronomical tool to today’s high-performance wristwatches, reminding readers that even the most familiar complications are the product of centuries of experimentation. That human thread continues with profiles of independent talents like Andreas Strehler and automata master François Junod, whose workshops underline how much of modern horology still depends on patience, mechanical imagination, and hands-on skill rather than scale.
Design-forward watchmaking also has a strong showing. The collaborative Ur-Freak from Ulysse Nardin and Urwerk earns Wallpaper’s Best Time Warp of 2026, sitting comfortably alongside unconventional time displays from brands like HYT, Ressence, and Trilobe. Meanwhile, Cartier’s best watches of 2025 recap demonstrates the maison’s ability to stretch from utilitarian titanium Santos models to high-art Tanks without losing coherence or desirability. Forward-looking conversations from Fratello and broader editorials set the stage for 2026, with collectors hoping for better movements, slimmer cases, stronger lume, and a renewed focus on human creativity over algorithmic sameness.
New and noteworthy launches round out the day’s coverage. Bell & Ross adds a reflective, architectural edge to its BR-05 line, Hublot continues its Yohji Yamamoto collaboration with an all-black camo Classic Fusion, and Perrelet delivers winter texture with the Weekend “Arctic Dunes.” Independent and regional creativity shines through with James Lamb’s deeply artisanal Linea Edition, Seiko’s Thong Sia Group exclusives, and the Emirati-Swiss fusion of Vyntage Horology’s Strata. On the review side, H. Moser & Cie. impresses with its Streamliner Perpetual Moonphase Concept Meteorite, pairing extreme lunar precision with bold, integrated-bracelet design.
The issue closes, fittingly, with the auction desk. Today’s featured report looks at Patek Philippe’s Calatrava Travel Time 5224R-001 in rose gold, a modern dual-time watch that blends pilot-style legibility with Calatrava restraint. With the current bid well below market estimates as the hammer approaches, it serves as a timely reminder that discipline—and timing—remain as important at auction as the watches themselves.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
Rolex price rises make gold watches a risky investment
Rolex is raising retail prices by about 7% in January 2026, with gold models seeing even sharper increases of 8–9% as production costs and gold prices climb. This move is part of a broader strategy to maintain brand exclusivity and reinforce Rolex’s position at the top of the luxury watch market. However, while demand remains strong, gold Rolex watches have shown weaker value retention on the secondary market compared with stainless steel models. Collectors and investors are increasingly advised to prioritize steel references, which historically hold their value better as prices continue to rise.
Feature Time
The history of the chronograph
The chronograph’s story begins with Louis Moinet’s 1816 invention for timing astronomical observations, long before it became associated with racing and aviation. Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec later coined the term “chronograph” in 1821 with a device that literally wrote time to record horse races. Over the 19th and 20th centuries, innovations such as split-seconds mechanisms and pushers refined the complication as it shifted from pocket watches to wristwatches. Despite the quartz crisis, mechanical chronographs survived and today span everything from high-end luxury to more accessible tool watches, often featuring advanced materials and cutting-edge engineering.
The Master of Mechanical Magic
Andreas Strehler’s path into independent watchmaking grew from early family influences and a fascination with mechanical problem-solving during the challenging quartz era. After formative years at Renaud & Papi, he struck out on his own, restoring vintage pieces and designing ambitious creations like the Tischkalendar that merges a pocket watch with a calendar. His firm UhrTeil A.G. develops movements for other brands while his own watches showcase idiosyncratic aesthetics, long power reserves, and highly original engineering. With projects like the more wearable Sirna, Strehler continues to push mechanical watchmaking forward while staying grounded in traditional craftsmanship.
Photo Report: Inside The Whimsical Workshop Of François Junod, Master Of Automata
In Sainte-Croix, François Junod’s workshop is a dense landscape of gears, figurines, and mechanical marvels that reveals the depth of his automata artistry at a glance. Collaborations with houses like Vacheron Constantin and Van Cleef & Arpels demonstrate how his work bridges fine watchmaking, sculpture, and kinetic art. Visitors encounter everything from playful characters to sophisticated mechanisms, each piece animated by Junod’s meticulous hand and imaginative vision. The studio functions as both a living museum of past creations and a laboratory where the next generation of automata and time-related art is quietly taking shape.
Wallpaper Design Awards: this freaky watch is the Best Time Warp of 2026
The Ur-Freak, born from a collaboration between Ulysse Nardin and Urwerk, reimagines the original Freak by fusing silicon-based movement technology with Urwerk’s satellite-style display. Time is indicated by one of three rotating elements that sweep around a minute track, turning the simple act of reading time into a kinetic performance. This design sits within a broader wave of unconventional time-telling, alongside Trilobe’s rotating rings, HYT’s liquid-filled capillaries, and Ressence’s fluid, dial-less approach. Together, these watches invite enthusiasts to view time not just as data to be read, but as an experience to be observed and enjoyed.
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Best Cartier watches of 2025
Cartier’s 2025 lineup demonstrated how the brand can satisfy both mainstream buyers and serious collectors through thoughtful evolutions of its icons. Pieces like the Santos De Cartier Titanium brought everyday practicality and durability, while the Tank Louis Cartier Automatic revitalized a classic case with a bolder, more contemporary dial. High-art executions such as the Tank Américaine Art Deco Platinum and the sculptural Tressage Two Tone blurred boundaries between jewelry, design object, and timekeeper. From the gemstone-like Panthère de Cartier Lacquer to more restrained references, the collection underscored Cartier’s strength in fusing heritage, form, and luxury pricing into cohesive, desirable watches.
Fratello Talks: Watch Wishes And Predictions For 2026
In this episode of Fratello Talks, RJ, Thomas, and Nacho share their personal wish lists and predictions for what the watch world might bring in 2026. They frame their conversation around major anniversaries such as 70 years of the Rolex Milgauss and Day-Date, 50 years of the Patek Philippe Nautilus, and 200 years of Gallet, speculating on commemorative releases. The hosts also call for design tweaks, like bringing back sword hands on the Omega Seamaster and rethinking the Rolex Explorer II. Along the way, they discuss broader challenges facing Rolex and encourage listeners to contribute their own hopes and forecasts for the coming year in horology.
Why the Most Famous Lost Sports Watch Is Due for a Comeback in 2026
The Patek Philippe Nautilus, especially the cult-favorite Reference 5711, became one of the most coveted luxury sports watches before its discontinuation in 2021 left a vacuum in the brand’s catalog. With 2026 marking the model’s 50th anniversary, speculation is growing that Patek may reintroduce a more straightforward steel Nautilus to honor the milestone. Any revival would likely bring technical and practical updates, such as an upgraded movement and a modern quick-change bracelet, even if the water resistance is slightly reduced. As Watches and Wonders 2026 approaches, collectors are closely watching Patek’s moves, hoping the Nautilus returns in a form that respects its legacy while pushing the design forward.
Le Freak (is still) C’est Chic: Ulysse Nardin Celebrates 25 Years of Getting Freaky
Ulysse Nardin’s Freak collection, first launched in 2001, has spent a quarter-century redefining what a high-end mechanical watch can look like and how it can function. By using the movement itself as the hand set and pioneering silicon components, the Freak became a symbol of technical experimentation and avant-garde design. Recent models like the Freak ONE and Freak OPS continue this trajectory, blending visual drama with sophisticated mechanics and referencing earlier generations in subtle design cues. Special collaborations and limited editions tied to events and partners keep the collection culturally relevant, ensuring that the Freak remains a fixture in conversations about the most daring watches on the market.
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Editorial Time
What We Want to See From the Watch Industry in 2026
Enthusiasts looking ahead to 2026 are calling for both technical and practical improvements across the watch industry, starting with better, more innovative off-the-shelf movements. Many hope brands like Tudor will revive models such as the North Flag with modern updates like titanium construction and robust micro-adjust clasps. There is also strong demand for better lume from Grand Seiko, slimmer cases and a new base caliber from Omega, and more bracelets with fine adjustment across all price points. Beyond specs, collectors want bolder aesthetics, new materials like tantalum and Timascus, more refined field and dress designs, and a broader offering of thoughtful, mid-range luxury quartz watches.
Essays: 2026 Is the Year We Fight AI Slop To Reclaim Human Craft
This editorial argues that watches are more than tools for telling time; they are cultural objects that connect personal memory, design history, and technical craft. Drawing on visits to major manufactures and first-hand industry experiences, it highlights how meticulous human work underpins the watches we admire. Looking to 2026, the author calls for watch journalism that pushes back against shallow, AI-generated “slop” and instead foregrounds human stories, context, and creativity. The goal is a richer, more inclusive conversation that celebrates both traditional craftsmanship and new ideas, making the culture around watches as meaningful as the pieces themselves.
The Latest Time
Bell & Ross
Bell & Ross: BR-05 Grey Mirror Steel
This entry does not yet have a long summary in the database, but it records the launch of the BR-05 Grey Mirror Steel, a new addition to Bell & Ross’s urban sports-luxury line. The BR-05 family is known for its squared case with rounded corners and an integrated bracelet, designed to bridge tool-watch toughness and city-ready style. This Grey Mirror Steel variant emphasizes reflective surfaces and a sleek monochrome palette, positioning it as a dressier, architectural take on the core BR-05 design. As additional details and pricing are added to your database, this summary can be expanded to reflect its full technical specifications and market positioning.
Hublot
Hublot Classic Fusion Yohji Yamamoto All Black Camo
The Hublot Classic Fusion Yohji Yamamoto All Black Camo is a 42mm matte microblasted ceramic limited edition, featuring an embossed black and dark grey camouflage dial that reflects the designer’s signature all-black aesthetic. Powered by the automatic HUB1110 movement with a 48-hour power reserve and visible through a smoked sapphire caseback, it blends technical watchmaking with fashion-forward design. The watch is limited to 300 pieces worldwide and is delivered on a matching rubber-and-fabric strap to complete the monochrome look. Priced at approximately $12,100 USD, it represents the fourth collaboration between Hublot and Yohji Yamamoto and targets collectors who appreciate both high-end horology and avant-garde fashion.
James Lamb
British Watchmaker James Lamb Introduces The Linea Edition — A Joint Effort Between Artisans
James Lamb’s Linea Edition is a highly artisanal extension of the Origin Series, created in collaboration with engraver Joanne Ryall and enameler Andy Roberts. Each watch uses a handmade silver case in 960 Argentium alloy with a hand-engraved titanium dial and 18K gold details, resulting in pieces such as the Mitsuba, Altair, and Regent that each carry distinct visual narratives. A high-grade Sellita SW210 hand-wound movement and frosted ceramic sub-dial underline Lamb’s focus on traditional, hand-finished watchmaking. Limited by the pace of the artisans rather than a fixed edition size, the Linea Edition is priced at €22,000 (about $25,700 USD), underscoring its exclusivity and the depth of craft involved.
Perrelet
Perrelet: Weekend “Arctic Dunes”
Perrelet’s Weekend “Arctic Dunes” is a winter-inspired limited edition with an ice-blue dial featuring an embossed pattern and Arabic-Indian numerals, framed by a refined 39mm stainless-steel case. A date window at 3 o’clock and a 5 ATM water resistance keep it practical, while a transparent caseback reveals the in-house automatic P-321 caliber with a 42-hour power reserve. The blue calf leather strap embossed to resemble alligator leather, along with a quick-release system, adds both comfort and flexibility. Priced at $1,705 USD, the Arctic Dunes offers a blend of seasonal design, in-house mechanics, and everyday wearability within Perrelet’s Weekend collection.
Seiko
Seiko 5 Sports Thong Sia Group Exclusive Limited Edition
The Seiko 5 Sports Thong Sia Group Exclusive Limited Edition introduces two winter-sport-inspired colorways—purple and brown—each limited to 1,000 pieces. Drawing on skiing and snowboarding aesthetics, the design uses angular indices, bold dials, and Lumibrite-treated hands for strong legibility that fits both alpine and urban environments. Inside, the reliable automatic Caliber 4R36 powers the watch within a 42.5mm case, offering day-date functionality and 10 bar water resistance. Priced at SGD 473.10 (about $367 USD), these limited editions deliver Seiko 5 toughness and style with a regional, fashion-forward twist.
Vyntage Horology
Vyntage Horology Launches Strata, a Sleek Emirati Integrated Watch with Swiss Micro-Rotor
The Vyntage Horology Strata is an integrated luxury sports watch that marries Swiss watchmaking with Emirati design, housed in a 40mm Grade 5 titanium cushion-shaped case just 8.92mm thick. Its burgundy “Diamond Tessellation” dial, engraved with geometric motifs, shifts character with the light and sets the watch apart from more conventional integrated designs. A Vaucher micro-rotor automatic movement, visible through the sapphire caseback, keeps the profile slim while signaling high-end mechanical pedigree. Delivered on an integrated bracelet with micro-extension and optional rubber strap, the Strata is priced at AED 69,000 (about $18,800 USD) and is available through Ahmed Seddiqi boutiques and the brand’s website.
Wearing Time - Reviews
H. Moser & Cie
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Moonphase Concept Meteorite Watch
The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Moonphase Concept Meteorite Watch integrates an ultra-precise moonphase into the Streamliner’s distinctive integrated-bracelet sports case. Its gold-tone meteorite dial reinforces the celestial theme, while the in-house automatic HMC 270 movement delivers a moonphase that needs correcting only once every 1,027 years. The 40mm steel case is 13.2mm thick, water resistant to 120 meters, and paired with a fluid, horizontally linked bracelet that tapers to a butterfly clasp for comfort and visual continuity. Priced at $43,700 USD, it stands out in a crowded field of moonphase watches by combining extreme mechanical refinement with a bold, unconventional aesthetic.
Comparing Time
The Best Tool Watches We’ve Ever Tested
This comparison surveys a range of serious tool watches built for durability, legibility, and real-world reliability. Standouts include the G-Shock DW9052 for its near-indestructible build and simplicity, the Citizen Promaster Diver for compact underwater versatility, and the Scurfa Diver One, which reflects the needs of a professional diver. Other highlights such as the Seiko Turtle, Nodus Sector Deep, CWC SBS Diver, AUDRIC Seaborne, and Sinn EZM 3F and T50 each bring their own mix of comfort, robustness, and long-term dependability. Together, they form a toolkit of options for enthusiasts who want purpose-built watches that can withstand demanding conditions without sacrificing wearability.
Watches and Wonders 2026
Watches and Wonders 2026 Preview: What to Expect from Audemars Piguet’s Return
Audemars Piguet’s return to Watches and Wonders 2026 after a six-year absence is set to be a major moment, signaling a renewed desire to engage directly with the broader watch community. Rather than unveiling wild new complications, the brand is expected to refine and extend existing strengths, such as ceramic perpetual calendars and expanded use of advanced materials like BMG and tantalum. With the fair running from April 14–20, 2026, AP’s releases are likely to shape both editorial coverage and buying decisions throughout the year. Their presence alongside peers like Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin will further elevate the show’s prestige and keep attention focused on how AP balances innovation with accessibility.
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Watching Time - Videos
I Ranked Every Microbrand Watch Brand
This video takes viewers through a broad survey of microbrand watch companies, ranking them based on design, build quality, value, and overall appeal. It highlights what makes certain brands stand out in a crowded niche, from originality and finishing to community engagement. The creator also points out common pitfalls and weaknesses, helping viewers understand which microbrands might be a better fit for their tastes and budgets. It is aimed at enthusiasts who want a concise, opinionated overview of the microbrand landscape.
Drop #259 - First drop of 2026! Neo-vintage gems, a powerhouse Lange, a vintage Daytona rival & more
This video showcases the first curated watch drop of 2026, featuring neo-vintage pieces and a standout A. Lange & Söhne that is framed as a serious rival to vintage Daytonas. The selection emphasizes characterful designs that blend period charm with wearable modernity. Viewers are guided through the key details of each watch, from case proportions to dial execution and overall wrist presence. The drop aims to appeal to collectors seeking distinctive, story-rich pieces rather than purely speculative buys.
Fratello Talks: What the First Watch Releases of 2026 Reveal About the Year Ahead
In this episode, the Fratello team unpacks the earliest watch releases of 2026 and what they suggest about emerging trends for the rest of the year. They discuss design directions, complications, and pricing strategies that appear in these initial launches, reading them as signals of where brands are heading. The conversation also touches on how consumer preferences and broader market conditions might shape what comes next. It is a thematic overview for viewers who want to understand the bigger picture behind new releases, not just individual models.
If I was starting watch collecting again, THESE are the ones I’d get first
This video presents a starter lineup of watches that the creator would choose if beginning a collection from scratch today. The selections are framed around balancing design, reliability, and value, offering concrete suggestions across different use cases and budgets. Along the way, the video explores why certain watches make better “firsts” than others, touching on versatility, serviceability, and long-term enjoyment. It serves as a practical roadmap for newcomers trying to avoid common mistakes while still buying what they love.
PERFECT NEW Omega Watches
Focused on Omega’s latest releases, this video walks through the design, technical features, and overall positioning of the new models in the brand’s lineup. It highlights key updates in materials, movements, and ergonomics that distinguish these watches from previous generations. The presentation also reflects on how the new pieces fit into Omega’s broader identity and how they compare to competitors at similar price points. It is intended for viewers considering a modern Omega and wanting a closer, enthusiast-level look before deciding.
Talking Time - Podcasts
Scottish Watches Podcast #742 : January Watch Releases and Chit Chat
This episode covers a slate of early-2026 watch releases, starting with Seiko’s Prospex LX Spring Drive GMT in titanium, whose Cygnus-inspired gradient dial sparks debate over its pricing. The hosts also dig into Hublot’s Big Bang Meca-10 Street Art editions with hand-painted concrete cases, plus Chinese New Year specials like Swatch’s Year of the Horse and Longines’ Master Collection Moonphase. They highlight the Venezianico Nereide GMT Xi’an, a red mother-of-pearl GMT celebrating the Silk Road and praised for strong value around $1,100. Rounding things out, the show touches on Raymond Weil’s collaboration with seconde/seconde/ and Mido’s Multifort Two Crowns in PVD rose gold, framing these releases within broader industry trends.
Listen Now >
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2023 A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk 41.9MM Black Dial Aftermarket Leather Strap (142.031)- was bid to $42,700 but has a market value in excess of $77,000. - make an offer]
2025 Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 42MM Blue Dial Leather Strap (5224R-001)
Auction Report: Auction Report Title: Patek’s 24-Hour Jet-Setter in Rose Gold: The Calatrava Travel Time 5224R-001
If the seller’s description reads a little like a mashup of “Calatrava” and “Pilot,” that’s because this reference sits right in the middle of those worlds. The Patek Philippe Ref. 5224R-001 is officially the Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time in rose gold, not the Pilot Travel Time line (that’s the 5524 family), but it’s clearly aimed at the same customer: someone who wants a second time zone, fast usability, and a dial that looks ready to board a plane even if it never leaves your desk. Patek Philippe positions it as an “everyday” travel watch, pairing a polished 42mm rose-gold case with a navy dial and a strap that leans casual-luxury rather than black-tie formal.
The headline feature is the 24-hour display concept: local time and home time are shown by central hands that travel around a 24-hour ring, making it nearly impossible to confuse day and night when you’re juggling time zones (or just living that “calls with Singapore” lifestyle). Patek Philippe also made a point of legibility and “clean case flanks” here—rather than using traditional side pushers for Travel Time adjustments, the system is designed around crown operation, with the local time jumping in one-hour steps via an intermediate crown position. Under the hood is the self-winding caliber 31-260 PS FUS 24H with a platinum mini-rotor, 4 Hz frequency, and an advertised 48-hour power reserve—thin enough to keep the case impressively svelte for a 42mm complicated watch (about 9.85mm case height in the brand’s technical data).
On “history,” this watch is best understood as Patek Philippe expanding its Travel Time language beyond sporty icons and into a modern Calatrava format. The maison’s press material frames the 24-hour display as a contemporary reinterpretation of historical 24-hour indications (including early-1900s pieces made for the Brazilian market), while the overall Travel Time concept is the same user-friendly dual-time system collectors already know from the Pilot Travel Time, Aquanaut Travel Time, Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph, and other references. In other words: the complications are serious, the presentation is calmer, and the vibe is “frequent flyer who wears rose gold without apologizing for it.”
Now to value, which is where the market gets candid. The current retail estimate tracked by WatchCharts for the 5224R platform is about $73,549 (as of January 2026), while their market-price estimate sits materially lower—about $42,017(early January 2026). That spread is the entire story for bidders: this is a complicated modern Patek Philippe in precious metal that can often be bought pre-owned at a meaningful discount to boutique pricing, so you do not want to “win” this auction by paying full-retail enthusiasm for a watch the secondary market treats more pragmatically.
A quick real-world cross-check supports that caution. Chrono24 listings for the 5224R-001 commonly cluster in the mid-$40Ks to low-$50Ks depending on condition, completeness, and seller posture, with some higher “ask” prices that may be aspirational. Your lot is described as very good with minor wear, and it includes inner/outer boxes, papers dated February 15, 2025, plus an additional brand-new leather strap—strong completeness for a bidder, though not necessarily a guarantee of a higher clearing price than the broader market range. In plain English: “full set + extra strap” is what you want to see, but the market still tends to anchor this reference around transaction reality rather than MSRP romance.
With the auction ending tonight at 10:38 pm on Friday, January 9, 2026, the sensible approach is to bid with discipline. If the watch presents well in photos and the wear truly is minor, a bidder’s “fair-win” range is typically around the prevailing market estimate and comparable listings—think low-$40Ks into the $40Ks, with room above that only if the platform, buyer protections, and tax/shipping math still keep your all-in cost competitive versus simply buying one outright from a reputable secondary dealer. Past that point, you are paying for the thrill of victory, which is a legitimate hobby, but not the same thing as a smart purchase.
If you’ve been waiting for a modern Patek Philippe travel watch that doesn’t scream “sports watch,” the 5224R-001 makes a compelling case. It’s technically thoughtful, wearable for its size, and unusually practical for a brand that sometimes treats practicality as a rumor. Just remember: the 24-hour dial may prevent day/night confusion—unfortunately, it cannot prevent auction-night confusion, so set your ceiling before the final minutes begin.
Current bid: $13,000