BuyingTime Daily - January 7, 2026
From Dubai dealmakers to Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms future, red-carpet watches, fresh 2026 releases, and a bold Louis Moinet auction—your global watch snapshot.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
The watch world opened 2026 with a distinctly global feel, blending boardroom moves, anniversary reflections, red-carpet theatrics, and a steady drumbeat of genuinely interesting new watches. The day’s biggest industry headline came from WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND, where longtime buying chief Eric Macaire announced his move from the UK to Dubai, underscoring how the Gulf continues to attract luxury talent as both wealth and ambition accelerate across the region. It was a reminder that while Switzerland still sets the tempo, the geography of influence in watches keeps expanding east and south.
On the brand side, BLANCPAIN took center stage through an unusually candid interview with CEO Marc A. Hayek, who used the Fifty Fathoms’ 70th anniversary as a springboard to talk about what comes next. New case sizes, a more civilian-friendly evolution of the Fifty Fathoms Tech, and continued emphasis on the Villeret line all point to a brand intent on broadening its reach without diluting its core identity. Hayek also leaned into environmental responsibility, positioning Blancpain’s Ocean Commitment not as marketing garnish but as something future buyers will increasingly expect from serious luxury brands.
Awards season provided its own kind of watch commentary, with the Critics Choice red carpet serving as a quiet-luxury mood board. Vintage CARTIER, modern ROLEX, discreet BLANCPAIN, and high-independent statements from AKRIVIA and F.P. JOURNE showed how watches continue to function as subtle character notes rather than blunt flexes. Elsewhere, reflective pieces explored why AUDEMARS PIGUET felt omnipresent in 2025 despite a lighter trade-show footprint, why titanium remains criminally underrated as a high-complication case material, and how even intentionally “bad” predictions can reveal real fault lines in where the industry might go next.
New and noteworthy watches were plentiful. TAG HEUER doubled down on enthusiast goodwill with a 75-piece Australia-only Carrera that blends deep archival cues with modern mechanics. MIH reminded everyone why museum-driven projects can matter with the Gaïa Series III, while ORIS, SOPWITH, and VENEZIANICO each delivered limited editions tied to culture, geography, or history rather than pure trend chasing. On the review front, anniversaries dominated, from the 20-year milestone of the F.P. JOURNE Chronomètre Souverain to multiple 145th-anniversary releases from SEIKO, alongside thoughtful takes on pieces from KING SEIKO, MIDO, ROGER SMITH, TRASER, and a quietly provocative ultra-thin perpetual calendar from VACHERON CONSTANTIN.
The day wrapped with a dose of auction intrigue, highlighted by the City of Time: New York edition of the LOUIS MOINET Mecanograph. Loud, unapologetic, and meteorite-laden, it is a reminder that independent horology still leaves room for spectacle, narrative, and opportunistic buying, especially when current bids sit far below original retail. Taken together, today’s stories made for a light but telling snapshot of an industry entering the year reflective, experimental, and very much in motion.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
Watches of Switzerland’s buying director emigrates to Dubai
Eric Macaire, the executive director of global buying and merchandising at Watches of Switzerland Group, is relocating from the UK to Dubai to pursue new opportunities in the rapidly growing Gulf region. In his farewell message, he highlights the surge of high-net-worth individuals and the rise of an ambitious middle class across the GCC, pointing to strong government support for innovation and tourism. Macaire brings extensive experience from Hong Kong and Belgium, as well as his recent role guiding buying operations at Watches of Switzerland. His move reflects a broader trend of British expats and businesses gravitating toward Dubai’s dynamic luxury and retail environment.
Feature Time
An Interview with Blancpain CEO Marc A. Hayek
Marc A. Hayek reflects on Blancpain’s recent milestones and outlines how the brand will build on the 70th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms. He discusses upcoming variations of the iconic dive watch, including new case sizes and a civilian evolution of the Fifty Fathoms Tech, as well as the impact of the Blancpain x Swatch collaboration in reaching younger audiences. Hayek also emphasizes Blancpain’s Ocean Commitment initiatives with partners like PADI, arguing that environmental responsibility is becoming central to how future customers evaluate luxury brands. Looking ahead to the 190th anniversary in 2025, he previews new high-complication movements and a renewed focus on both the Fifty Fathoms and Villeret lines.
Could VAER’s A5 Tactical Be the Best Sub-$1,000 Field Watch?
The VAER A5 Tactical Field Auto is presented as a sub-$1,000 field watch that punches above its weight in construction and finishing. With a 40mm matte black PVD stainless steel case, a Japanese Miyota 9015 automatic movement, sapphire crystal, and 10 ATM water resistance, it is built for varied environments and daily wear. After extensive wear-testing, the reviewer praises its comfort, accurate timing, and “premium” feel that rivals more expensive competitors. Thoughtful details such as green-tinted lume and crisp dial printing reinforce the impression of a well-executed, value-forward field watch.
These celebrity watches got the first standing ovations of awards season
The Critics Choice Awards opened the 2026 awards season with a red carpet full of notable watches that doubled as character studies for their wearers. Paul Mescal’s vintage Cartier Tortue, Leonardo DiCaprio’s Rolex Land-Dweller, and Jeff Goldblum’s Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate all conveyed different flavors of quiet luxury. Timothée Chalamet’s Akrivia AK-06, Dua Lipa’s Bvlgari Serpenti Tubogas, and Dwayne Johnson’s IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar added independent flair, fashion-forward drama, and technical prestige. The lineup underscored how watches remain subtle but powerful storytelling tools in Hollywood’s awards circuit.
In My First Year In Watches, One Brand Stood Above The Rest
Reflecting on a first year immersed in the watch industry, the author singles out Audemars Piguet as the brand that most successfully blended history, engineering, and cultural relevance. AP’s 150th anniversary became a narrative anchor, with coherent messaging and product that made the brand feel omnipresent even without a big trade-show stand. Experiences at events and with other luxury names reinforced how much “world-building” depends on real substance rather than just hype. The year closes with AP carrying strong momentum into 2026, setting expectations for how it will re-engage more visibly with the wider industry.
Why Titanium Is the Most Underrated Case Material in Haute Horlogerie
This piece argues that titanium is still undervalued in high-end watchmaking despite offering a far better strength-to-weight ratio than steel, gold, or platinum. By making complex watches lighter and more wearable, titanium allows perpetual calendars, tourbillons, and other heavy-hitting complications to be genuine daily-wear pieces. Examples like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Perpetual Calendar Chronograph and Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Tourbillon show how titanium can transform wrist feel without sacrificing presence. As collectors pivot from pure status signaling to comfort and function, the author predicts titanium will increasingly be seen as an optimal, not compromise, choice.
Bad Watch Predictions for 2026
Framed as deliberately chaotic, these “bad” predictions for 2026 poke fun at the industry while hinting at plausible shifts. The piece imagines military-style straps losing favor as global tensions make martial aesthetics less comforting, and jokes about Kevin O’Leary flooding the podcast space with a persona lifted from Marty Supreme. It speculates that Apple might stun the market with a mechanical watch that fuses high tech and traditional horology, blurring categories further. Tudor is forecast to finally release a new Heritage Chronograph that initially thrills enthusiasts but struggles with younger buyers, forcing the brand toward more contemporary design language.
Jay Leno On Passion for Collecting Cars and Wristwatches
Jay Leno describes how a childhood fascination with abandoned cars in rural New England evolved into a collection of nearly 200 vehicles, each chosen for the story it carries. He emphasizes restoring cars not just as mechanical projects but as a way of preserving and retelling the lives of past owners. Leno applies the same mindset to his more than 100 watches, admiring brands like A. Lange & Söhne for their meticulous craftsmanship and clarity of design. For him, collecting is driven by personal enjoyment and narrative value rather than investment, a philosophy he hopes will guide future generations of enthusiasts.
Editorial Time
TAG Heuer Hearts Australia
TAG Heuer has launched a limited edition Carrera created specifically for the Australian market, born out of 2023 conversations between TAG Heuer Heritage Director Nicholas Biebuyck and passionate local collectors. The design draws on historic references like the Heuer Autavia 1163 and the Heuer 1158CHN “Success Watch,” blending a silver dial, black azurage counters, and a modern chronograph movement. Limited to just 75 pieces, the 39mm stainless steel watch is powered by the self-winding Caliber TH20-00 with an 80-hour power reserve and is water-resistant to 100 meters. Priced at AUD 11,800 and sold exclusively through Australian TAG Heuer boutiques, it underscores the brand’s deepening connection with the country’s enthusiast community.
CORDER’S COLUMN: Hits and misses from my predictions for 2025
Rob Corder looks back at his 2025 forecasts for the watch industry, weighing what he got right and wrong in a year shaped by geopolitical shocks and Donald Trump’s tariffs on Swiss exports. He notes that top luxury brands such as Rolex, Cartier, and Audemars Piguet managed to grow market share even as mid-tier players struggled in a tougher economic climate. A key trend he highlights is the move toward smaller men’s watches, where brands like Cartier successfully capitalized on changing tastes, though the segment remains niche overall. Corder also scrutinizes TAG Heuer’s performance versus expectations, arguing that while its visibility improved through Formula 1 partnerships, there is still work to do in reclaiming ground from rivals like Breitling.
Here’s How I See the Watch World Entering 2026
The article surveys how the watch industry changed in 2025, from Rolex’s bold Land-Dweller launch to a wider shift toward monobrand boutiques and direct sales. Economic headwinds, including inflation and volatile tariffs, dampened primary-market sales and pushed brands to lean more on experiential retail and milestone anniversaries like the Patek Philippe Nautilus turning 50. Looking into 2026, dubbed the Year of the Horse, the author anticipates “muted newness” in product, more emphasis on controlled brand experiences, and growing competition among digital platforms in the $30 billion pre-owned space. Independent brands such as F.P. Journe and MB&F are expected to play an outsized role in shaping the year’s narrative, even as the overall outlook remains a complex mix of opportunity and uncertainty.
The Latest Time
MIH
Hands-On: The MIH Gaïa Series III, And Why This Watch Matters
The MIH Gaïa Series III is a 39mm limited edition of 100 pieces that channels the architecture and spirit of La Chaux-de-Fonds’ Musée International d’Horlogerie. Its blue dial, created via Atomic Layer Deposition, uses a central rotating disc for the minutes and an arched aperture for the hours, echoing the museum’s concrete formwork lines. Powered by the Sellita SW400-1 with a 38-hour power reserve, it runs at 28,800 vph and is paired with a strap made from recycled apple waste to underscore its ethical, local focus. Priced at CHF 3,400 (about $4,220), proceeds support the museum’s renovation and exhibition program.
Oris
Oris Year of the Fire Horse Limited Edition
The Oris Year of the Fire Horse Limited Edition is a 43mm stainless steel watch built around the in-house calibre 113, which offers a 10-day power reserve and a full business calendar showing day, date, week, and month. Its deep red dial with gold accents and dual recessed sub-dials evokes Chinese New Year symbolism while incorporating two pink horse-shaped power-reserve indicators. Limited to just 88 pieces, the watch is designed so that all indications are adjusted via the crown, avoiding fiddly case correctors. It is delivered on a dark brown Shell Cordovan strap, in a wooden presentation box, and priced at CHF 6,650 (about $8,250).
Sopwith
Introducing the Sopwith Aero Marquis Tunisian Desert Limited Edition GMT
The Sopwith Aero Marquis Tunisian Desert Limited Edition GMT is built from the cockpit armor of a World War II Focke-Wulf fighter, with just 53 pieces produced. Designed for extreme environments like the Sahara, it features a 41mm case, 200 meters of water resistance, magnetic protection, and a Hemlock Green dial framed by a bronze bezel. Inside is a 2893-A2 Élaboré automatic GMT movement, giving travelers a robust dual-time tool engineered to resist sand, shock, and harsh conditions. The watch ships on a handcrafted Horween leather strap in a vintage-style cedar box and is priced at $5,700.
Venezianico
Venezianico Introduce Nereide GMT Xi’an Celebrating the Silk Road
The Venezianico Nereide GMT Xi’an is a 500-piece limited edition that celebrates the Silk Road and its link between Europe and East Asia. Its red mother-of-pearl dial, accented with a cloud motif and gold hands, symbolizes good fortune, while the rotating bezel with Chinese numerals and day–night indication allows tracking of multiple time zones. Powered by the Miyota 9075 automatic GMT movement with a 42-hour power reserve, it blends Italian design with Chinese cultural references, including a Terracotta Army engraving on the caseback. Water-resistant to 100 meters on a stainless steel bracelet, it is priced at $1,095.
Wearing Time - Reviews
F.P. Journe
F.P.Journe Chronomètre Souverain 20th anniversary
The F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain marks its 20th anniversary as a benchmark for mechanical purity and restrained elegance. Launched in 2005, it was conceived as a simple, highly precise chronometer with a power reserve indicator and a dial layout inspired by historic marine chronometers. Its hand-wound Calibre 1304 uses just 161 components yet delivers remarkable accuracy, with gold bridges and meticulous finishing underscoring Journe’s commitment to haute horlogerie. To celebrate the anniversary, F.P. Journe has introduced two special Boutique Collection pieces with blue guilloché dials that reinforce the model’s status as a modern classic.
King Seiko
King Seiko 45KS Two-Tone Redux 145th Anniversary Watch Review
The King Seiko 45KS Two-Tone Redux 145th Anniversary watch honors Seiko’s founders with a 39.4mm stainless steel case and a distinctive grey nanako-patterned dial. Gold-tone hands and indices echo period details while keeping the watch slim and wearable at just 9.9mm thick. Inside, the 6L35 automatic movement offers a 72-hour power reserve and is protected by a solid caseback engraved to mark the limited run of 800 pieces. Positioned at £2,700, it balances elevated finishing with relative accessibility and serves as a bridge between Seiko’s heritage and its modern higher-end offerings.
Mido
Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer PVD
The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 Limited Edition in black PVD revisits a historically important decompression-dial diver with a bolder, modern execution. Its 40.5mm case and colorful pastel dial preserve the original’s ability to help divers calculate safe ascent times, while delivering 200 meters of water resistance for contemporary use. Powered by the Mido Caliber 80, the watch offers an 80-hour power reserve and ships with multiple easily swappable straps, including a Milanese bracelet and rubber option. Limited to 1,961 pieces and priced at A$2,350, it combines functional tool-watch credentials with distinctive vintage charm.
Roger Smith
Roger Smith Series Six Hands-On: Handmade British Watchmaking Perfection With A Floating Date
The Roger Smith Series Six is a highly limited handmade watch that showcases the pinnacle of British independent watchmaking. Built in tiny numbers on the Isle of Man, it introduces a “traveling date” indication that circles the dial, avoiding the visual disruption of a conventional date window. The 40mm 18k gold case, guilloché-engraved dial, and fully hand-finished movement highlight traditional techniques and the co-axial escapement that improves accuracy and service intervals. With extensive customization available and a retail price of £320,000 before taxes, it is positioned as a true collector’s piece rather than a mainstream luxury watch.
Seiko
Seiko 145th Anniversary Presage Classic Series Enamel ‘Timekeeper’ Limited Edition Watch Review
The Seiko 145th Anniversary Presage Classic Series Enamel ‘Timekeeper’ Limited Edition pays tribute to the brand’s first Timekeeper pocket watch from 1895. Its petite 35mm gold-colored steel case, onion crown, and double-knurled detailing translate pocket-watch DNA into a refined wrist format. A white enamel dial with bold Roman numerals and a pared-back layout emphasizes legibility and classical charm, while the 6R51 automatic movement delivers a 72-hour power reserve and 50m of water resistance. Limited to 1,450 pieces and priced at £1,700, it showcases Seiko’s enamel artistry and heritage-minded design in a compact dress piece.
Seiko 145th Anniversary Prospex Speedtimer Two-Tone Mechanical Chronograph Limited Edition Watch Review - Read More >
Traser
Actually Affordable: Traser P96 OdP Color Watch With Spectralight
The Traser P96 OdP Color pairs a rugged 44mm glass fiber–reinforced case with Spectralight tritium technology that glows in multiple colors in both daylight and darkness. Designed as a practical field watch, it offers 200 meters of water resistance, a timing bezel, and a lightweight 70-gram footprint that wears comfortably despite its size. Large Arabic numerals, a date window, and a Swiss quartz movement (likely Ronda 715) deliver straightforward functionality and a five-year battery life. Priced between $465 and $485, it targets buyers who want tritium illumination and real-world toughness without paying premium dive-watch prices.
Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin – The Vintage-Inspired Release That No One Expected
The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin revives a vintage-inspired format in a compact 36.5mm case that is just 8.43mm thick. It uses the classic 1120 QP movement, emphasizing thinness and traditional layout, with a moonphase and a distinctive 12-month subdial that bring depth to the dial. Design tweaks improve balance and legibility while keeping the watch firmly rooted in the brand’s dressier, old-school aesthetic. With pricing around $100,000, it positions itself against similarly sized perpetual calendars from Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre, offering a blend of heritage movement and contemporary refinement.
Comparing Time
Best Watches We Tested That Nailed The Vintage Reissue Design
This piece looks at vintage reissue watches that successfully balance nostalgic design with true modern wearability. Many reissues chase aesthetics but fail on comfort or proportions; the highlighted models avoid that trap by refining case sizes, ergonomics, and dial layouts for daily use. Standouts include the Q Timex with its versatile 38mm case, the trapezoidal Bulova Computron that fully embraces its 1970s identity, and the Seiko Turtle, which wears smaller than its dimensions suggest. Together with the Bulova Lunar Pilot and CWC Royal Navy Diver, they show how thoughtful reissues can deliver both vintage charm and contemporary practicality.
Watching Time
The Ceramic Speedmaster That Rules Them All: The Grey Side Of The Moon
This video explores the design, materials, and performance of the Ceramic Speedmaster “Grey Side Of The Moon.” It explains how the ceramic case contributes to the watch’s durability, scratch resistance, and distinctive look among modern Speedmasters. The presentation also highlights where this model sits in the broader universe of luxury chronographs and why it has become a reference point for many collectors. Viewers come away with a stronger sense of how form, material science, and brand heritage converge in this watch.
The Patek Philippe Nautilus Scam Nobody’s Talking About
This video examines how the immense popularity and status of the Patek Philippe Nautilus has created fertile ground for scams and convincing counterfeits. It walks through the ways that replica pieces undercut the value of the genuine watch and how unsuspecting buyers can be misled by near-perfect aesthetics that mask inferior build quality. The discussion stresses the importance of understanding authentication markers, documentation, and trusted seller networks before committing to a Nautilus purchase. Ultimately, it aims to sharpen viewers’ skepticism so they can participate more safely in the high-end secondary market.
Patek Phillipe Waitlist Times for EVERY Model in 2026
This video breaks down the expected 2026 waitlist times across the Patek Philippe lineup, showing how demand and allocation differ from model to model. It explains how production constraints, hype cycles, and retailer practices shape the real-world experience of trying to buy a Patek today. By comparing categories and reference families, the piece helps viewers understand which watches may be relatively attainable and which ones require multi-year patience or strategic relationship-building. Collectors can use this overview to set realistic expectations and plan their acquisition strategies.
10 Best Watches I Have Ever Reviewed
In this video, the reviewer revisits ten standout watches from all the pieces they have covered over time. Each selection is used to illustrate what makes a watch truly memorable, whether that is movement innovation, case and dial execution, comfort, or emotional connection. The narrative balances technical appreciation with wearability and long-term appeal, giving viewers a feel for why these models rose above the rest. It serves as both a curated highlight reel and a guide for anyone considering where to start or upgrade their own collection.
Talking Time
The SUPERLATIVE PODCAST: When Nature Sets The Clock — Surfing, Survival, And Timepieces With Kai Lenny
In this episode of the Superlative Podcast, Ariel Adams speaks with big-wave surfer and TAG Heuer ambassador Kai Lenny about the realities of surfing some of the world’s most dangerous waves. Lenny explains how growing up in Hawaii taught him to read the ocean from land, turning wave selection into a blend of mental calculation, experience, and physical courage. The conversation dives into the physics of big-wave surfing, from underwater pressure to the role of safety equipment, and underscores how time becomes a critical dimension in survival. Lenny also shares how real-world testing in extreme conditions informs his collaboration with TAG Heuer and how confronting nature’s power has shaped his views on performance, parenthood, and legacy.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Tuesday’s auction watch, the 2022 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin 41.5MM Blue Dial Rose Gold Bracelet (4300V/120R-B509)- was bid to $71,500 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
Louis Moinet Mecanograph New York L.E. 45MM Artwork Dial Leather Strap (LM-31.20.NY)
Auction Report: City of Time: The Louis Moinet Mecanograph New York, Where Horology Meets Manhattan
The Louis Moinet Mecanograph New York L.E. is one of those watches that immediately signals it was never meant to be subtle. Produced in a strictly limited edition of just 60 pieces worldwide, the Mecanograph New York (reference LM-31.20.NY) is a statement watch in the purest Louis Moinet sense—mechanically expressive, artistically ambitious, and unapologetically large. With a 45mm titanium case, this is a watch designed to wear its inspiration on its sleeve, or more accurately, across its dial.
Louis Moinet has built its modern reputation around the fusion of high horology and narrative-driven design, often incorporating meteorite material, celestial references, and sculptural movements. The Mecanograph collection is central to that identity, showcasing partially openworked movements that allow the mechanics to play a visual role rather than remain hidden. In the New York edition, that philosophy is paired with a tribute to one of the world’s most iconic cities. The dial features an engraved New York skyline rendered in relief, set against a blue background and layered over a genuine meteorite plaque—a signature Louis Moinet touch that subtly ties the city’s earthly ambition to something far more cosmic.
At the center of the composition is an open-heart configuration that exposes part of the manually wound mechanical movement, reinforcing the idea that this watch is as much about spectacle as it is about timekeeping. Despite its artistic emphasis, the layout remains time-only, keeping the focus on balance, depth, and craftsmanship rather than complication overload. The titanium case helps manage wearability at this scale, offering strength without excessive weight, while the leather strap completes the package with a suitably refined counterpoint to the watch’s bold architecture.
From a historical perspective, Louis Moinet the man was a contemporary of Breguet and is often credited with inventing the chronograph in the early 19th century. The modern brand leverages that legacy less through vintage reissues and more through avant-garde expression, positioning pieces like the Mecanograph as wearable art objects that appeal to collectors looking beyond mainstream Swiss luxury. The New York edition fits squarely into that niche, appealing to buyers drawn to limited production, unconventional materials, and strong geographic storytelling.
In terms of market value, Mecanograph models have historically traded below their original retail pricing on the secondary market, in part due to their size, bold styling, and relatively narrow collector base. However, city-themed limited editions with meteorite dials tend to hold interest better than standard production references, particularly when numbers are capped as tightly as this run of 60 pieces. Expect market values to generally fall in the mid–five-figure range depending on condition, with some discount typically applied when box and papers are absent, as is the case here. That said, for collectors who value uniqueness and visual impact over brand ubiquity, this can represent an opportunity rather than a drawback.
The seller represents this example as being in very good condition, and the auction includes the watch only, without box or papers. The auction concludes tonight, Wednesday, January 7, 2026, at 10:58 pm, making this a last-minute opportunity for collectors who appreciate expressive independent watchmaking with a strong narrative hook. For the right buyer, the Louis Moinet Mecanograph New York is less about quiet luxury and more about wearing a city, a story, and a piece of mechanical art on the wrist.
Current bid: $2,500