BuyingTime Daily - January 6, 2026
Tariffs, Freaks, flagships, and fresh releases—Ulysse Nardin surges, Cartier goes big, independents shine, and a blue-gold Vacheron anchors the auction spotlight.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
January 5th delivered a busy, nicely unhinged cross-section of the modern watch world, with momentum at the top, creativity in the middle, and plenty of thoughtful context framing where things may be headed next. ULYSSE NARDIN set the tone early, posting double-digit U.S. sales growth in what it candidly described as a “hectic” year, helped by tariff whiplash, aggressive pre-positioning of inventory, and sustained collector demand for the Freak family and the ultra-light Diver Air, now reportedly backordered into 2026. At the opposite end of the luxury spectrum, CARTIER confirmed plans for a massive Beverly Hills “Temple” boutique on Rodeo Drive, reinforcing that brick-and-mortar flagships still matter when the brand equity is strong enough to justify them.
Brand storytelling and athlete alignment continued to blur the line between sport and spectacle, with RICHARD MILLE signing freestyle mogul skier Arthur de Villaucourt, extending its long-running strategy of strapping ultra-light mechanical statements to bodies moving at Olympic-level speeds. On the independent side, founder-led creativity was front and center as Ed Tourtellotte unpacked the mythology-driven philosophy behind STOLLENWURM, while broader features explored everything from extreme-condition tool watches—where ROLEX, OMEGA, BREMONT, and VICTORINOX flex their engineering muscles—to the quiet resurgence of ring watches, now reimagined by brands like TIMEX and G-SHOCK for modern wrists. Historical perspective also made an appearance through the legacy of Seth Atwood and the Time Museum, a reminder that serious collecting has always been about documentation as much as acquisition.
New watches arrived in volume and with confidence. ALBISHORN delivered a restrained, instrument-forward Type 10 “Officer,” ANTTI RÖNKKÖ leaned hard into Finnish mythology with the Son of Tuoni, and AUDEMARS PIGUET once again made complexity look intimidating with a Royal Oak Concept split-seconds GMT priced firmly for committed believers. KURONO TOKYO doubled down on accessible artistry with a meteorite-dial Inseki, while MAURICE LACROIX, TAG HEUER, and VARIO each found different ways to celebrate the Year of the Horse, ranging from skeletonized sport watches to playful, reversible Art Deco designs.
On the review side, practicality and wearability cut through the noise. The AQUASTAR Benthos Professional emerged as a genuinely daily-wearable diver, FLEURY MANUFACTURE showcased serious chronograph credentials in microscopic quantities, HAUTLENCE made its gyroscopic jumping hour surprisingly livable, and newer voices like MEZEI proved that restraint still resonates. Comparisons and video reviews filled in the edges, from Tudor’s ongoing Black Bay identity debate to deep dives into IWC, A. LANGE & SÖHNE, GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL, and the deliberately polarizing universe of MING.
The day closed, fittingly, with the auction lens turned on a heavyweight: a 2022 VACHERON CONSTANTIN Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in pink gold, quietly asserting that modern complication doesn’t have to shout to command respect. With bidding still well below perceived market value and the hammer imminent, it served as a useful reminder that patience—and timing—remain undervalued tools in a collector’s kit.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
Ulysse Nardin notches double-digit sales growth in “hectic” year
Ulysse Nardin achieved strong double-digit sales growth in the U.S. despite a volatile year shaped by shifting tariff rates on Swiss watches. Anticipation of price increases pushed brands to move stock into the country more quickly, enabling customers to buy before higher tariffs hit and helping the brand surpass its sales targets. The Freak collection remained a centerpiece for collectors, while the Freak One, Freak X, and Diver Air all performed well, with the latter reportedly backordered into 2026. A high-profile collaboration with Urwerk on the UR-Freak further boosted excitement and visibility, supported by engaged retail partners and motivated sales teams.
Cartier to open Beverley Hills boutique second-only in scale to its New York flagship
Cartier is moving ahead with a major new three-story boutique on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, positioning it as a fourth “Temple” alongside its flagship locations in Paris, London, and New York. Initially approved in 2018, the project has been delayed multiple times, with the latest application finally cleared in March 2025. The boutique will feature a 45-foot-high showroom, VIP rooms, and an outdoor terrace, and is targeting a grand opening in 2027. Once open, it will become Cartier’s second-largest U.S. flagship, reinforcing the brand’s presence among other top luxury names clustered on Rodeo Drive.
Richard Mille partners with mogul skiier Arthur de Villaucourt
Richard Mille has signed French freestyle mogul skier Arthur de Villaucourt as a new brand partner, strengthening its ties to elite winter sports. The 22-year-old aims to crack the world top 30 and qualify for the 2026 Winter Olympics, competing while wearing the ultra-light RM 67-02 Automatic Extra Flat, engineered to handle severe shocks yet remain comfortable. The partnership emerged from a chance encounter with a Richard Mille executive, and de Villaucourt has expressed enthusiasm about representing the brand. This move builds on Richard Mille’s history of supporting winter athletes like Alexis Pinturault and Ester Ledecká, aligning the brand with technically skilled, high-performance competitors.
Feature Time
Stollenwurm’s Founder Ed Tourtellotte Discusses the Inspirations of the Young Swiss Brand
Ed Tourtellotte left the tech world to found Stollenwurm, a young Swiss watch brand that debuted at Geneva Watch Days with a distinctively mythical identity inspired by a serpent-like creature from local lore. Its first collections, Series 1 and Series 2, focus on symbolic, artistic watchmaking, with astronomical calendar displays and tarot-inspired enamel dials. Using rare materials like tantalum and platinum, Stollenwurm emphasizes low production numbers and hand-crafted details to heighten exclusivity. The brand’s “Rarely Seen” positioning underscores both the scarcity of its pieces and their fantastical narrative appeal.
The ABCs of Time: Watches Designed to Withstand the Most Extreme Conditions
Some modern tool watches are engineered to endure environments far beyond everyday wear, from the violent forces of ejection seats to the crushing pressures of the ocean’s deepest trenches. Bremont’s Martin Baker series, for example, is built around survival in extreme aviation scenarios, while Rolex and Omega have created Mariana Trench–capable dive watches that survive depths beyond 10,000 meters. Victorinox’s I.N.O.X. has been tested against impacts, temperature extremes, and even the weight of a tank to prove its resilience. Collectively, these watches serve as showcases of human ingenuity in materials, engineering, and design for extreme conditions.
Ringing in the New Year: A Handy Guide to Ring Watches
Ring watches trace their history back to the 16th century, when they were miniature luxury timepieces worn by elites as both jewelry and functional instruments. Over time they evolved from whimsical curiosities into more practical accessories, and modern versions from brands like Timex and G-SHOCK blend playful aesthetics with everyday usability. Recent enthusiasm for retro and unconventional formats has sparked a renewed interest in ring watches among collectors. Lightweight construction and better ergonomics now make these pieces more comfortable, positioning them as a growing niche at the intersection of fashion and horology.
Complicated Collectors: Seth Atwood
Seth Atwood, a collector from Rockford, Illinois, built one of the most important private horological collections of the 20th century. After acquiring a rare watch at auction in 1968, he committed himself to documenting the full history of timekeeping, ultimately founding the Time Museum in 1971. The museum’s collection spanned everything from ancient sundials to modern atomic clocks, and Atwood even commissioned reconstructions of lost historical mechanisms while supporting contemporary watchmakers. Though the museum closed in 1999 and the collection was dispersed, its rigorous documentation and scholarly standards continue to influence how horological collections are organized and studied today.
Watch Trends to Look Out For in 2026
Following a year of surprises—including the popularity of jump hours and vintage-inspired designs—the watch world in 2026 is expected to tilt toward greater accessibility and bolder aesthetics. More brands are bringing haute horology complications to wider audiences, with makers like Christopher Ward and Frederique Constant offering complications at relatively attainable prices. Colorful dials are increasingly displacing conservative black and white, while case sizes are trending back up toward 40mm and beyond, echoing the 2000s. Sustainability remains central, with recycled materials and responsible production moving from novelty to baseline expectation in the industry.
The Seiko 5T52-7A19: An Ode to the Age of Discovery
The Seiko 5T52-7A19 hails from the early 1990s Age of Discovery line, created to mark the 500th anniversary of Christopher Columbus’ voyage. Its gold-tone case, nautical motifs, and world-time functionality evoke classic travel watches, while features like alarms and a 24-city indication add real utility. Despite some period-specific design flourishes, its proportions feel modern enough to wear easily today. Well-preserved examples command around $250 or more, and because the quartz movement is complex to service, collectors are advised to seek out fully functional pieces to appreciate the watch’s capabilities and historical charm.
Editorial Time
Daan’s Watch Resolutions For 2026 — More Concrete Options For Contemporary Watches
This editorial lays out a set of 2026 resolutions centered on carefully evolving a personal watch collection toward more contemporary pieces. After adding a vintage Seiko 6105-8000 and frequently wearing staples like a Cartier Santos Galbée XL and Rolex Explorer, the author is now considering selling a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso to free up budget and mental space. Brands such as Otsuka Lotec and Ming are on the radar as compelling yet relatively attainable options. The tone is exploratory and reflective, inviting ideas and feedback from fellow collectors as the collection pivots toward modern watches.
An Exciting 2025 And A Push For More In 2026
Here, the Editor-in-Chief reflects on a busy 2025 in the watch world and at the publication, highlighting milestones like two major issues of Hodinkee Magazine and the growth of their podcast offerings. The piece emphasizes how storytelling, original reporting, and team expansion have deepened engagement with enthusiasts. Looking into 2026, the focus turns to authenticity, value, and stronger community connections amid shifting price dynamics and collector expectations. The goal is to deliver richer content, more events, and deeper dialogue that make the watch space feel more meaningful and connected.
The Latest Time
Albishorn
Albishorn Lightens Things Up With The Type 10 “Officer”
Albishorn’s Type 10 “Officer” is a 39mm manual chronograph limited to just 99 pieces, featuring a new beige dial with a textured cream surface and black Super-LumiNova accents. Its steel case with rotating bezel extends to 41.7mm, while a prominent red pusher at 9:30 and crown at 10 o’clock give the watch a distinctive, instrument-like look. The proprietary ALB02 M movement, based on Valjoux 7750 architecture, delivers chronometer-certified performance, 65 hours of power reserve, and 100 meters of water resistance. The Type 10 “Officer” is priced at CHF 3,950, approximately $4,800 USD.
Antti Rönkkö
The Antti Rönkkö Son of Tuoni, The Watchman of the Underworld
The Son of Tuoni draws deeply on Finnish mythology, depicting the guardian of the underworld who weaves nets to keep the dead from returning. Its 41.9mm IP-black-coated steel case has sharp facets that emphasize both strength and drama, while a rotating disc on the dial evokes those mythical nets and incorporates a moonphase display. Inside, a modified Soprod A10 calibre with a hand-finished rotor inspired by the god of thunder delivers a 42-hour power reserve. Limited to 20 pieces, pricing starts at EUR 12,700, approximately $15,000 USD, for the 1-Moon version, with a 40% deposit required to secure a pre-order.
Audemars Piguet
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date
This Royal Oak Concept model showcases a split-seconds chronograph whose mechanism is integrated into the oscillating weight, allowing for a technically complex but relatively sleek architecture. The 43mm titanium case is 17.4mm thick yet lightweight, paired with an openworked dial that reveals the chronograph, GMT day-night indicator, and large date display, though at some cost to legibility. Its calibre 4407 movement is composed of 638 components, offers a 70-hour power reserve, and is finished to the high standards expected of Audemars Piguet. Priced at $200,000 USD, this limited, highly technical piece is aimed squarely at serious collectors.
Kurono Tokyo
Introducing: Kurono Tokyo Launches the 2026 Special Projects 37mm Inseki with Meteorite Dial
Kurono Tokyo’s 37mm Inseki for the 2026 Special Projects line features a Muonionalusta meteorite dial, with each piece hand-selected by Hajime Asaoka for its sharp Widmanstätten patterns. The polished steel case and Miyota automatic movement keep the watch slim and wearable, while a black calf leather strap and polished buckle complete the refined presentation. As part of the “special projects” series, the Inseki is intended to showcase more personal and expressive design language within Kurono’s universe. The watch is priced at USD 1,850, and pairs its exotic dial material with accessible sizing and everyday practicality.
Kurono Tokyo Introduces Meteorite to the Collection with the New Inseki - Read More >
Maurice Lacroix
Maurice Lacroix And Label Noir Launch Third Limited Edition
The AIKON Manufacture Skeleton Label Noir is the third collaboration between Maurice Lacroix and Geneva customizer Label Noir, limited to just 100 pieces. Its 45mm stainless steel case is fully DLC-coated in black, contrasted by turquoise highlights across the skeletonized ML234 automatic movement, visible from both the dial side and the exhibition caseback. The watch delivers 48 hours of power reserve and 100 meters of water resistance, maintaining AIKON’s sporty credentials while leaning into a bold, contemporary aesthetic. Priced at CHF 6,500, approximately $7,900 USD, it ships with both a dark gray nubuck strap and a turquoise FKM rubber strap, easily swapped via the brand’s Easy Strap Exchange system.
TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Year of the Horse
This limited Carrera celebrates the Year of the Fire Horse with a warm ember-gradient dial, red accents, and a unique detail: the numeral 7 is replaced by the Chinese character for “horse.” Inside the familiar 39mm steel Carrera case, TAG Heuer’s TH20-07 movement delivers robust automatic chronograph performance, an 80-hour power reserve, and 100 meters of water resistance. The caseback bears a galloping horse motif, while a Beads-of-Rice bracelet adds a vintage-inspired elegance to the overall look. Limited to 250 numbered pieces, the watch is priced at CHF 7,450, approximately $9,000 USD.
Vario
Vario Versa Year of the Horse & Eastern Arabic
To mark its 10th anniversary, Vario has released two limited Versa models—the “Year of the Horse” and “Eastern Arabic”—each limited to 100 pieces. Both share a reversible, Art Deco–inspired rectangular case that can be flipped to reveal a second dial: one side in red enamel with golden Year of the Horse accents, the other in green enamel with eastern Arabic numerals. Dual Ronda Slimtech 1062 quartz movements power the two-sided design, enabling dual timekeeping without the expense of mechanical complexity. Priced at A$654, approximately $435 USD, each watch arrives on an Italian leather strap matched to its dials, with an optional steel bracelet available for added versatility.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Aquastar
Aquastar Benthos Professional Review: The Version I’d Wear Every Day
The Aquastar Benthos Professional is a 42mm dive watch designed to be slim and comfortable enough for daily wear, while still delivering serious underwater capability. A black DLC-coated case adds visual heft without excess bulk, and the ceramic bezel turns smoothly with positive, secure clicks. The dial is highly legible, with bright lume and a checkered rehaut that makes timing intuitive, and the choice to omit a date keeps things clean. Powered by the reliable ETA 2824-2 and paired with a robust ISOfrane strap, it offers solid value and versatility for both tool-watch fans and everyday use.
Fleury Manufacture
Fleury Manufacture FXR-4 Chronograph
The Fleury Manufacture FXR-4 Chronograph revives the spirit of the Lemania 2310 in the hand-wound calibre FM04, housed in a 40mm case made from recycled stainless steel. Its satin-brushed dial, elegant chronograph layout, and subtle day/night indicator showcase both traditional design language and functional sophistication. Limited to just 22 pieces, each watch reflects extensive hand-finishing and significant technical refinement over the original movement architecture. Positioned at the high end of independent watchmaking, it serves as a showcase for Fleury’s blend of modern machining and old-world craft.
Hautlence
Hautlence Sphere Series 3 Hands-On: The Gyroscopic Jumping Hour Watch Gets More Wearable
The Hautlence Sphere Series 3 reinterprets the brand’s signature jumping-hour sphere in a more compact, wearable format using a lightweight grade 5 titanium case. Its 45mm case and 17.4mm thickness are balanced by smart ergonomics and a purple suede strap that help it sit comfortably on the wrist. The in-house calibre A82 drives a rotating titanium orb that displays the hours, paired with a conventional minute hand and a 72-hour power reserve, turning time-telling into kinetic theater. Limited to 28 pieces and finished in a vivid purple colorway, it offers a surprisingly wearable take on avant-garde horology.
Mezei
Mezei Arctic Blue Watch Review
The Mezei Arctic Blue is a refined debut from a young microbrand, centered on a 40mm stainless steel case with a polished bezel and an engraved arctic blue dial that plays with light. It ships on a grey leather strap with an additional Milanese bracelet, striking a balance between dressy elegance and everyday practicality. Inside, the Miyota 8215 automatic movement delivers dependable performance and a date display at 6 o’clock, while 50 meters of water resistance and roughly 40 hours of power reserve keep it user-friendly. Overall, it’s a mature, understated first effort that favors thoughtful design and finishing over loud branding.
Union Glashütte
Hands-On: The Handsome Union Glashutte 1893 Johannes Durrstein Anniversary Editions
Union Glashütte’s 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Anniversary Editions pay tribute to the brand’s founder with designs inspired by historic pocket watches, translated into 41mm Large Second and 34mm Small Second wristwatch formats. Both models use taupe-grained dials, polished indices, and blued hands to blend classic Glashütte styling with a contemporary neutral palette that wears well on many wrists. Swiss ETA automatic movements, reworked in-house, keep the watches reliable and refined, while water resistance of 100 meters for the Large Second and 50 meters for the Small Second adds real-world usability. Limited to 99 pieces each and delivered on black calfskin straps, they offer a compelling mix of heritage, finishing, and restrained pricing for collectors seeking a German-flavored dress watch.
Comparing Time
Battle Of The Black Bays: Tudor Black Bay 54 Vs. Black Bay 58
This comparison sets the 37mm Black Bay 54 against the 39mm Black Bay 58 to see which better captures Tudor’s vintage dive watch DNA. The Black Bay 54 leans hardest into the 1954 Submariner ref. 7922 aesthetic, with a simpler aluminum bezel, warm gilt accents, and a thinner case that improves comfort without sacrificing water resistance or modern features like a sapphire crystal and T-fit clasp. The Black Bay 58 remains a favorite for its broader versatility and slightly larger, still-classic proportions that suit a wide range of wrists. In the end, the piece argues that the choice comes down to size and how “vintage-correct” you want your modern Tudor to feel, since both deliver strong build quality and everyday practicality.
Watching Time
IWC’s Overlooked Dress Watch: Boring or Simplicity Done Right? - YouTube - Teddy Baldassarre Reviews
The review examines whether IWC’s understated dress watch succeeds as a refined minimalist design or comes across as dull. It looks closely at the clean dial, proportions, and overall craftsmanship to see how well they deliver quiet elegance. The discussion also considers how the watch wears in daily life and how it fits into a contemporary wardrobe. Viewers are encouraged to rethink what makes a dress watch compelling beyond obvious flash and complication.
A. Lange & Sohne Zeitwerk Date 148.038 A. Lange & Sohne Watch Review
The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date 148.038 is presented as a fusion of avant‑garde digital time display and traditional high horology. The review highlights the signature jumping hours and minutes, the ingenious date display, and the depth of finishing across the movement and dial. It also covers how the watch balances visual drama with everyday usability and accuracy. Collectors are invited to see it as both a technical showcase and a modern design statement within Lange’s lineup.
Glashutte PanoReserve: BETTER Than Lange 1?
This video positions the Glashütte Original PanoReserve as a serious alternative to the iconic Lange 1. It explores the asymmetric dial layout, power reserve indicator, and overall build quality to show how the PanoReserve creates its own identity. The comparison looks at technical specifications, finishing, and wearing experience to argue where the PanoReserve might even have an edge. Viewers are encouraged to think about value, personality, and brand perception when choosing between the two.
MING Watches: The industry villain making uncompromising design
The video profiles MING Watches and founder Ming Thein’s refusal to compromise on design, even at the risk of polarizing collectors. It traces the brand’s evolution from a small, scrappy operation to a disruptive force with distinctive models like the 37.11 Odyssey and 57.04 Iris. The conversation at Dubai Watch Week underscores Thein’s comfort with taking risks and ignoring industry conventions. Overall, the piece frames MING as a brand redefining what modern, independent watchmaking can look like.
The Watches I’m Eyeing for 2026 — Don’t Miss These - YouTube - Doug’s Watches
This video is a curated guide to the watches most worth watching in 2026, spanning different brands and styles. Each pick is discussed in terms of design, movement, and why it stands out in a crowded market. The host also ties these choices to broader trends in horology, from sizing and color to complications and materials. It serves as both a wishlist and a roadmap for enthusiasts planning their next acquisitions in the coming year.
Rob’s SOTC State of the Collection 2025.Tudor, Casio, Swatch, Orient, Grand Seiko. Rolex & IWC SOLD!
Rob’s State of the Collection 2025 video walks through an expansive lineup that ranges from accessible Casio and Swatch pieces to higher‑end Tudor, Grand Seiko, Rolex, and IWC. He explains the stories behind key watches, how his tastes have shifted, and why certain pieces have left the collection. The recent sale of Rolex and IWC models becomes a focal point for discussing priorities, wear time, and collecting philosophy. Together, the narrative captures an evolving journey rather than a static snapshot of ownership.
Stranger Things Actors & Their Most Expensive Watches
This video explores the luxury watches worn by the actors from Stranger Things, connecting specific pieces to each star’s personal style. It showcases high‑end brands and models, using them to illustrate how watches function as both status symbols and expressions of character. The discussion touches on how these choices fit into Hollywood’s broader fashion culture and red‑carpet aesthetics. Fans get a behind‑the‑scenes look at how their favorite actors signal taste and personality through what is on their wrists.
These 7 Watches Took Over 2025! (I Didn’t Expect This)
This video looks back at seven watches that unexpectedly dominated attention in 2025. It explains what made each piece resonate, from bold design and smart pricing to clever technology or strong storytelling. The host unpacks how social media, influencer coverage, and shifting tastes helped propel these models into the spotlight. The discussion suggests these watches are more than fleeting hype, reflecting deeper changes in what today’s buyers value in a timepiece.
Talking Time
Scottish Watches Podcast #741 : We’re Back in Business for 2026! Featuring Ken Kessler
The Scottish Watches Podcast kicks off 2026 with Episode 741, welcoming back writer and long-time collector Ken Kessler. The conversation covers the relentless pace of new watch releases, standout pieces from the previous year, and how collecting tastes evolve with experience. Kessler contrasts vintage and modern collecting, reflecting on why some brands endure even when they seem under the radar. The episode also branches into high-end audio and home cinema, showing how adjacent passions inform the way enthusiasts experience watches.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Monday’s auction watch, the Hautlence Jump Hour Retrograde L.E. 41MM Mother Of Pearl Dial Leather Strap (HLC3)- was bid to $8,000 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2022 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin 41.5MM Blue Dial Rose Gold Bracelet (4300V/120R-B509)
Auction Report: “Blue-Gold Gravitas: The Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin That Doesn’t Try Too Hard”
The 2022 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin (ref. 4300V/120R-B509) is the rare kind of modern “statement watch” that makes its point quietly. It is a full precious-metal sports watch on an 18K pink gold bracelet, but the real flex is the engineering: an ultra-thin perpetual calendar packaged in a case that still reads as casual, daily-wear Overseas. The seller is calling this example “very good,” and—critically for a complicated Vacheron—notes a full set with inner/outer boxes, accessories, and papers dated 2022.
What you are paying for is the intersection of three things: the third-generation Overseas design language (the notched bezel that echoes the Maltese cross, the ergonomics of the bracelet, and the brand’s quick-change versatility), a flagship complication, and a profile that stays genuinely slim. Vacheron lists the watch at 8.10mm thick, an impressive number when you consider you are getting a complete perpetual calendar with moonphase, in solid gold, with real water resistance for the category.
On the technical side, the 4300V Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar is built around Vacheron’s ultra-thin perpetual calendar architecture (commonly referenced as caliber 1120 QP/1 in market listings), and it delivers the classic perpetual calendar promise: day, date, month, leap-year cycle, and moonphase, with the calendar programmed to remain correct through 2100 assuming it’s kept running and not incorrectly set. The blue dial is doing a lot of work here, because it makes the complication feel less like a boardroom trophy and more like an actual sport-luxury object. Collectors have also tended to reward the “right” Overseas combinations, and this specific blue-dial-on-gold-bracelet pairing became a notable point of discussion when Vacheron began offering the blue dial with the matching precious-metal bracelet configuration.
Now the part that matters if you are bidding: value. “Market value” for this reference depends heavily on which dataset you trust and how current it is. WatchCharts, which aggregates pricing signals, shows an estimated market price in the high five figures (roughly $87K as of early January 2026 on its model page), reflecting the broader post-2022 normalization in high-end sports-luxury pricing. By contrast, dealer/marketplace asks often still cluster higher: Chrono24 listings for the reference frequently appear around the low-to-mid $100Ks depending on location, completeness, and condition, and you will see “like new/full set” examples offered above $110K. Some dealer commentary from late 2024 pegged MSRP around $115K with grey-market pricing around $105K at that time—useful context, but already a bit dated compared with what pricing models are implying today. The practical takeaway is that a clean, full-set 2022 example in “very good” condition can land anywhere from the high-$80Ks to low-$110Ks depending on buyer intensity, auction dynamics, and whether the watch presents closer to “lightly worn” or “honestly used.”
Because this is a perpetual calendar, condition diligence is more than cosmetic. “Very good” can mean anything from superficial hairlines on polished surfaces (totally normal on pink gold) to more meaningful wear on the bezel facets and bracelet edges. If the listing photos show softened edges, overzealous polishing, or any hint of moisture intrusion (unlikely, but always worth checking), that should change your ceiling. The “full set” matters here because it supports liquidity later, and Vacheron buyers do tend to pay a premium for completeness—especially on complicated Overseas references. If there is any service history included, it is worth weighing: a recent manufacturer service can be a plus, but an unnecessary service on an ultra-thin movement can also raise questions. The sweet spot is a watch that runs correctly, sets correctly, and hasn’t been “improved” by anyone with a buffing wheel and confidence.
Your auction timing is also favorable: the sale closes tonight, Tuesday, January 6, 2026 at 8:18pm. That is close enough that late bidders will be operating on emotion and recency—exactly when a blue-dial, gold-bracelet Overseas tends to look its best on screen. My rational bid plan would be to decide whether you are buying this as (1) a long-term flagship Vacheron keeper or (2) a value-driven entry into high-complication sport-luxury. If it’s the former, you pay for the watch you want and accept some volatility. If it’s the latter, you anchor to the lower end of current market estimates and let someone else overpay for the privilege of “winning.”
If you want a single-line verdict: this reference is the kind of modern Vacheron that feels like it was designed by adults—thin, complicated, undeniably expensive, and still somehow plausible with a sweater and sneakers.
Current bid: $55,000