BuyingTime Daily - January 5, 2026
Rolex prices cool as 2026 hikes land, new releases shine from independents to icons, and reviews spotlight value, innovation, and serious watchmaking momentum.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
January 5, 2026
Happy New Year’s Watchheads! The year opens with a familiar but slightly cooler tone across the watch market. Pre-owned Rolex prices have lost some momentum after a strong 2025, easing off their autumn highs while still finishing the year solidly in the black. Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet show more uneven footing, reinforcing the idea that 2026 begins not with a crash, but with normalization. That said, the retail side remains firm: Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Tudor have all pushed through new price increases for 2026, with precious-metal models doing most of the heavy lifting. Independents are feeling currency pressure as well, with Sweden’s GoS raising prices sharply after shifting from dollar to euro pricing, a reminder that exchange rates now matter almost as much as movements.
Product news remains the real bright spot. December closed with a wave of genuinely interesting new watches, from Breguet’s high-frequency technical experiments and Urwerk’s continued material exploration to refined calendar and ultra-thin work from Vacheron Constantin, A. Lange & Söhne, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. At the accessible end, Bernhardt, Citizen, and Christopher Ward kicked off 2026 with practical, well-specified releases that emphasize value and clarity of purpose rather than hype. At the opposite extreme, Voutilainen’s new 216TMZ Worldtime quietly reset expectations for what a classical world-timer can be when executed without compromise.
Reviews this week reinforced that breadth. Bell & Ross finally married its iconic square case to a movement worthy of the design, Blancpain reminded everyone what uncompromising haute horlogerie looks like with its Grande Double Sonnerie, and Maen and Christopher Ward showed that thoughtful design and strong mechanics do not require luxury-brand pricing. A closer look at Parmigiani Fleurier’s one-off La Ravenale pocket watch added a welcome reminder that watchmaking is still, at its core, an artistic discipline.
Looking ahead, 2026 is shaping up as a year of reflection and refinement rather than excess. Major anniversaries for Patek Philippe, Tudor, Rolex, and others point toward heritage-driven releases, while broader discussions around e-commerce, collecting philosophies, and what actually constitutes value suggest a more deliberate, considered market. The watches keep getting better—even if the price charts are taking a breather—and that is a trade most collectors will gladly accept. -Michael Wolf
News Time
Rolex price rally runs out of steam
After a strong run earlier in 2025, pre-owned Rolex prices on the secondary market softened toward year-end. Median prices peaked around £17,000 in mid-September before easing back to roughly £16,310 by December, still leaving Rolex up 8.7% for the year. Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet showed more mixed performance, with Patek ending 2025 down about 6% and Audemars Piguet posting only modest gains. The data suggests a cooling but still elevated market, with volatility varying significantly across brands and models.
Rolex, Audemars Piguet and Tudor increase prices
Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Tudor have all raised prices for 2026, continuing a broader upward trend in luxury watch pricing. In the UK, Rolex prices are up around 5%, while in the US the average increase is closer to 7%, with gold models climbing more than steel. Tudor’s adjustments average about 5.6% in both the US and UK, with certain gold-heavy references rising even more. Audemars Piguet has also pushed prices higher, especially for Royal Oak models, as all three brands respond to strong demand, rising material costs, and currency pressures.
Currency swing pushes Sweden’s GoS to hike prices by 17%
Swedish independent brand GoS is shifting from US dollar pricing to euros after a sharp weakening of the dollar in 2025. The move results in an average price increase of about 17%, aligning new euro prices with early-2025 levels when the two currencies were nearly equal. Founder Patrik Sjögren frames the change as necessary for long-term stability, since the company’s costs are largely European. GoS continues to position its Damascus-steel watches as artisanal pieces inspired by Scandinavian nature and history.
Click to buy: how will we buy watches in 2026?
A new report shows that nearly 29% of watch sales now happen online, but only 10–15% of premium and ultra-luxury pieces are sold through digital channels. Traditional watch brands have long favored in-person retail experiences, yet younger buyers increasingly expect to transact online and question why prestigious marques remain hesitant. Auction houses have already embraced online platforms, and more brands are slowly following through their own e-commerce sites or authorized partners. The industry appears to be in a transitional phase where digital sales will grow, but coexist with boutique-based, high-touch experiences.
The 2026 Rolex Price List Shows 2 to 6% Price Rise Depending on Metals and Models
Rolex’s 2026 price list confirms increases ranging from 2% to 6%, with the steepest jumps reserved for gold and platinum models. Gold watches see average rises of about 5–6%, while platinum models climb around 3.5%, and many steel references face comparatively modest changes. Collections such as the Submariner and Cosmograph Daytona have moved upward in line with these averages, but some lines like the Explorer and Explorer II are less affected. Overall, the adjustments reflect continued pressure from raw material costs and a strategy to maintain positioning across the brand’s steel, two-tone, and precious metal ranges.
bell & ross announces Defender Rally partnership
Bell & Ross has partnered with Defender Rally as its Official Timing Partner for the World Rally-Raid Championship. The collaboration debuted at the Dakar Rally 2026 in Saudi Arabia, where the brand spotlighted its BR-X3 Black Titanium watch. Designed for rugged conditions, the BR-X3 features a robust titanium case and a COSC-certified movement tailored to extreme environments. Through this partnership, Bell & Ross deepens its connection with motorsport and adventure, reinforcing a brand identity built on performance and durability.
Kari Voutilainen steps down as Urban Jürgensen CEO
Independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen is stepping down as co-CEO of Urban Jürgensen to become a Board Member and Senior Strategic Advisor. In his new role, he will focus on long-term strategy, product guidance, and preserving the brand’s quality standards, while freeing more time for his own creative work. Co-CEO Alex Rosenfield will take over as CEO, tasked with expanding the brand’s presence in the high-end segment. Voutilainen’s daughter Venla is also leaving her COO position, as the family shifts toward new projects while remaining closely connected to Urban Jürgensen’s future direction.
Editorial Time
Is a new golden age of dress watches upon us?
A new wave of dress watches is redefining the category, blending classical elegance with modern practicality. Many current designs are slim and refined enough for formal wear, yet robust enough for daily use thanks to improved water resistance and durable finishes. Pieces like the Serica Ref. 1174 Parade and echo/neutra Rivanera Piccolo show how microbrands are pushing thoughtful case shapes, mixed finishing, and solid movements. Other models such as the Anoma A1 Optical and Furlan Marri Disco Volante Onyx Diamonds add design-forward details and luxury touches, making this a fertile moment for collectors interested in versatile, characterful dress watches.
Anniversaries and Milestones, What to Expect from the Watch Industry in 2026?
The watch world is heading into a landmark year, with 2026 bringing major anniversaries across several influential brands. Patek Philippe’s Nautilus and the Heuer Monza both turn 50, setting the stage for potential special editions and historically inspired releases. Tudor marks its 100th anniversary, while Gallet’s 200th under Breitling’s umbrella could see the revival of accessible yet functional sports watches. Rolex, Vacheron Constantin, and Parmigiani Fleurier also reach key milestones for icons such as the Oyster, Milgauss, Day-Date, Overseas, and early Parmigiani collections, making 2026 a likely showcase of commemorative designs and refined updates rooted in brand heritage.
Feature Time
The 9 Coolest New Watches That Dropped in December
December brought a wave of standout releases that blended technical bravado with refined design. Breguet unveiled a radical high-frequency tourbillon beating at 10 Hz, while Urwerk introduced a new model in composite ceramic, expanding the frontier of futuristic case materials. Vacheron Constantin broadened the appeal of its Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin with diamond-free, gender-neutral executions. A. Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Roger Dubuis, and Jacob & Co. rounded out the month with pieces that paired bold aesthetics with serious mechanical watchmaking, underscoring just how dynamic the high end of the market has become.
Taschen’s New Book Spotlights the 100 Best Collector Watches
Taschen’s two-volume Ultimate Collector Watches project assembles 100 of the most important wristwatches into a sweeping visual and historical survey of haute horlogerie. Spanning from the 1890s through 2023, it pairs icons from Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Audemars Piguet with landmark creations from independents, each supported by rich photography and narrative context. Interviews, archival materials, and a foreword by Aurel Bacs give the set real authority and depth. Offered in a standard edition and a numbered collector’s edition, it is positioned as both reference work and coffee-table centerpiece for serious enthusiasts.
THE BIG INTERVIEW: Lunn’s on 70 Years of Luxury in Belfast
Lunn’s story traces a 70-year arc from a small counter in Belfast’s Queen’s Arcade to a multi-brand destination crowned by a flagship Rolex boutique. Through political unrest, economic swings, and shifts in luxury retail, the family has leaned into heritage, service, and a strong sense of place. Their recent investments in restoring the arcade and curating top-tier brands show how architecture, community, and hospitality can be woven into the luxury experience. Looking ahead, they plan to deepen storytelling around brands like Patek Philippe while refining the flagship environment to keep pace with a more demanding global clientele.
Meet Hiroshi Fujiwara as he talks TAG Heuer Carrera x Fragment
Hiroshi Fujiwara’s TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Fragment is a study in restrained, street-informed luxury, limited to 500 pieces at around $10,000. The 39mm watch pairs a black-on-black dial, polished silver markers, and carefully placed white accents to create a graphic yet understated look. Subtle cues, like the Fragment logo appearing only on certain date-wheel positions, speak to Fujiwara’s preference for hidden details rather than loud co-branding. With a robust steel bracelet, black PVD links, and TAG Heuer’s TH20-00 automatic chronograph movement under a sapphire caseback, the piece is aimed squarely at collectors who sit at the intersection of fashion, design, and horology.
A Historical, Technical, and Practical Look At Breguet’s Expérimentale 1 — Plus, How The Magnetic Escapement Actually Works
Breguet’s Expérimentale 1, launched for the brand’s 250th anniversary, uses a magnetic escapement to push mechanical timekeeping into genuinely new territory. Developed over a decade, the system relies on magnetic forces and antimagnetic materials to boost efficiency and stability, opening the door to broader industrial use across the Swatch Group. The watch itself is unapologetically technical, with a complex architecture that foregrounds the escapement while updating the Marine language for a younger, tech-aware audience. Limited to 75 pieces at CHF 320,000, it serves as both halo product and proof of concept for where Breguet wants to take its next generation of movements.
Retrospective: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst
The Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst is one of A. Lange & Söhne’s most coveted limited editions, marrying the Zeitwerk’s digital time display with artisanal finishing typically reserved for the brand’s most exclusive pieces. Limited to 30 examples, it features a hand-worked tremblage dial that adds grain, depth, and drama around the oversized jumping numerals. Inside, a special Glashütte lever escapement sets it apart from other Zeitwerk references, highlighting how Lange uses this series as a testbed for both design and mechanics. With its thick case, strong wrist presence, and carefully tuned 36-hour power reserve, the watch balances conceptual boldness with everyday legibility and practicality.
Which 1,000m-Rated Dive Watch Is Right For You?
A 1,000m depth rating is overkill for virtually any wearer, but it has become a shorthand for toughness, over-engineering, and professional-grade intent. This feature contrasts options like the Certina DS Super PH1000M, which manages to feel wearable and stylish while still being a brute underwater, and the Ollech & Wajs C-1000 A, which leans into a stripped-back, tool-first aesthetic. Icons such as the Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M remind readers how purpose-built design can become cultishly desirable, while IWC’s Aquatimer and Tudor’s Pelagos Ultra demonstrate how advanced materials and movements can keep extreme divers comfortable and accurate. Choosing among them becomes less about depth usage and more about which philosophy of robustness and design language best fits the wearer.
Watch Spotting At Oliver Smith Jeweler’s Annual Cars & Cigars
Oliver Smith Jeweler’s Cars & Cigars event in Scottsdale has grown over 20 years from a local get-together into a 750-person holiday anchor that fuses car culture, cigars, and watches. This year’s edition leaned heavily into pre-1975 automotive legends, turning the parking area into an impromptu museum with Ferraris, Lamborghinis, and other rarities. On wrists, an equally eclectic mix of modern and vintage horology gave enthusiasts plenty to talk about between laps around the lot. The easy, neighborhood feel of the evening underscores how shared passions—cars, watches, and good company—can build genuine community around a retail brand.
Five watch trends to look out for in 2026
Watch design in 2026 is coalescing around a few clear themes that respond to both macroeconomics and evolving taste. Stone dials and richly textured surfaces are proliferating, with brands from Rolex to independents like Dennison pushing beyond plain lacquer. Experimental independents such as Vanguart and Apiar are using avant-garde forms and 3D-printed structures to blur the line between sculpture and watch. At the same time, integrated bracelets, new case alloys, and sustainable materials are refreshing familiar silhouettes from houses like Christopher Ward, Louis Erard, Cartier, and Tissot, making the year feel deliberately “designed” rather than trend-chasing.
eBay Finds: Vintage Watches from Omega, Bulova, Waltham, and More!
This roundup surfaces a curated list of vintage watches currently on eBay, spotlighting pieces from Omega, Bulova, Lucien Piccard, Waltham, Gruen, and Lord Elgin. Each listing is unpacked for design, originality, and condition—for instance, a Seamaster DeVille with gold-capped case and textured dial, or a Bulova that still has its original box and papers. Quirky highlights like a mint-bezel Waltham diver and the sharply cased Lord Elgin Black Knight showcase how much character can still be found at accessible prices. Despite the usual caveats about movement photos, the selection emphasizes sellers’ notes that these watches are running well, making them attractive entry points into vintage collecting.
Five Watch Collecting Philosophies: Finding Your Path in 2026
Rather than chasing every hyped release, this piece argues for building a collection around one of five guiding philosophies. The Purist looks for a single near-perfect watch, while the Complications Connoisseur seeks out mechanical fireworks and high-end engineering. The Sports-Elegant collector likes integrated, do-it-all pieces; the Independent Advocate gravitates toward smaller makers with distinctive ideas; and the Heritage Revivalist emphasizes modern watches that consciously reference historical models. Collectors are encouraged to mix and match these frameworks, but the real message is that clarity of intent—knowing why each piece belongs—makes for a more satisfying and coherent watch box.
Best Mechanical Watches for Beginners: Our Picks After Years Of Testing
Aimed at newcomers to mechanical watches, this guide highlights models that combine approachable pricing with solid specs and distinctive character. The Invicta Pro Diver and Orient Mako II cover the affordable dive category with familiar styling and reliable movements, while the Orient Bambino offers an elegant, dressier alternative. Seiko’s SRPD and SRPE lines, plus the Turtle, extend the range into different sizes and aesthetics without sacrificing robustness. Field-adjacent pieces like the Vaer Field Black Automatic, Dryden Heartlander, and Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical round out the list, each offering a different way to learn what it means to live with—and care for—a mechanical watch day to day.
Reading Time at HSNY: Staging Time for the Masses — Horological Society of New York
This piece follows an intern at the Horological Society of New York as they impose order on a trove of archival ephemera from Fortunat Mueller-Maerki. In sorting catalogs, brochures, and exhibition materials into artificial subcollections, the project surfaces how institutions have “staged” time for public audiences over decades. Many of the documents explore time not just as a measurement problem but as a cultural and experiential one, linking horology to astronomy, performance, and education. Planetariums, automata, and exhibition design all become tools to turn abstract celestial cycles into something visceral and shareable, reinforcing the idea that watchmaking is as much about storytelling as it is about precision.
Event Time
Watch industry experts discuss “Myths and Misconceptions in Watchmaking” in FHH panel
This panel explored how the explosion of watch media and online commentary has fueled both enthusiasm and confusion around traditional watchmaking. Speakers dug into loaded terms like “in-house,” and how brand messaging and enthusiast press can unintentionally distort what those claims really mean. They shared anecdotes, including mix‑ups among brands in Glashütte, to show how quickly myths take root. The group ultimately argued for clearer, more balanced storytelling that educates as much as it entertains, so newer collectors can navigate the noise with more confidence.
Suzanne Dirks To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
Artist and educator Suzanne Dirks will give a lecture at the Horological Society of New York on January 5, 2026, focused on how public clocks structure life in the city. She asks whether these clocks still guide our movements or have faded into the background of the urban landscape. Drawing on her project documenting public clocks across New York’s five boroughs, she will explore how restoration efforts, local history, and shared viewing moments turn timekeeping into a civic experience. The talk, held at the General Society Library and free with a ticket, aims to reconnect audiences with the social and emotional role of public time.
Recapping Time (2025)
The Best High-End Horology Timepieces of 2025
2025 delivered a slate of top-tier pieces that pushed high-end watchmaking in both engineering and aesthetics. Highlights include the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Chronograph RD#5 with its ultra-thin flyback chronograph and flying tourbillon, and Blancpain’s Grande Double Sonnerie 15GSQ with its intricate dual chiming mechanism. Breguet’s Expérimentale 1 advanced high-frequency precision, while Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon reset expectations at just 1.85mm thick. Ferdinand Berthoud’s Naissance d’une Montre 3 underscored the enduring value of patient, artisanal craft through its fusée-and-chain chronometer built over six years.
Watchonista Staff Picks: Our Favorite Watches of 2025
Watchonista’s team looked back on 2025 with a list that ranges from playful to ultra-refined. Picks include the Dennison Dual Time Capsule Collection in turquoise lacquer for its smart dual-time layout and strong design language, along with a stone-dial Louis Vuitton Escale and a classic Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. NOMOS’s Club Sport Worldtimer brought color and travel-ready functionality, while Ulysse Nardin’s Diver [AIR] and the Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage showed how materials and vintage cues can be reimagined. Together, the selections sketch a year where personality, texture, and storytelling mattered as much as specs.
Fratello’s Top 5 Surprising Watches Of 2025 — Featuring Richard Mille, Louis Vuitton, And More
Fratello’s roundup spotlights five watches that surprised even seasoned observers in 2025. Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Convergence “window watch” stood out with its architectural dial in rose gold, while the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface paired pink gold with an unexpectedly charismatic mesh bracelet. Richard Mille’s RM 16-02 Extraflat in terracotta quartz TPT leaned into bold color and cutting-edge materials, and the Rolex Submariner Date desk clock proved that even a static object could capture brand DNA. Hermès’s Arceau Rocabar de Rire, with its playful horse motif, reminded collectors that high horology can still have a sense of humor.
A Year In Review — 2025 Saw A Slow Market But Surprisingly Good Watches
Despite a sluggish market, 2025 turned out to be rich in creativity and events, with brands spreading their launches across LVMH Watch Week, Watches and Wonders, Dubai Watch Week, and more. Smaller makers stepped into the spotlight with distinctive designs, while the secondary market gave collectors new paths to interesting references. Many enthusiasts responded by consolidating collections, keeping what truly resonated instead of chasing every release. Fratello itself had a prolific year of coverage, underscoring how much energy and experimentation still flowed through the hobby even amid macro headwinds.
The Best Watches From Independent Watchmakers in 2025
Independent watchmaking flourished in 2025, with creators using freedom from big-group constraints to push design and mechanics. David Candaux’s DC12 MaveriK showcased a double-balance wheel inside a sculpted titanium case, while Fam Al Hut’s Mark I Bi-Axis Tourbillon signaled the rise of high-end Chinese independents. Minimalist but exquisitely finished pieces like Luca Soprana’s Time Only and Petermann Bedat’s Reference 1825 showed how restraint can still feel special. Collaborations such as Urwerk and Ulysse Nardin’s UR-FREAK further proved that independents are setting the pace for daring ideas in modern horology.
The best microbrand watches of 2025
Microbrands came into their own in 2025, offering concept-driven designs that felt every bit as thoughtful as those from larger houses. Standouts ranged from the tri-sided Anoma A1 Optical and Studio Underd0g’s tongue-in-cheek 01 Homage Series to the elegant echo/neutra Rivanera Piccolo and lume-forward Kollokium Projekt 02. Artistic and material experiments flourished too, with Selten’s Grand Feu enamel, Paulin’s Crystal Zapata collaboration, and Arcanaut’s coffee-grounds dial. Earthen Co.’s accessible ceramics and Dennison’s dual-quartz Dual Time underlined how microbrands are willing to take risks in both form and function at humane prices.
From the Editor: 2025—A Year of Horological Audacity and Pleasant Surprises
Seen from the editor’s chair, 2025 was a year where blue-chip maisons and independents alike chose boldness over caution. Vacheron Constantin celebrated its 270th anniversary with high-concept pieces like the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface and a refined Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. Patek Philippe’s Quadruple Complication ref. 5308G-001, Rolex’s new Land-Dweller line, and Cartier’s Privé Tank à Guichets showed how brands can extend heritage without losing coherence. Independents such as Grönefeld, Armin Strom, and Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Hybris Artistica projects confirmed that technical and aesthetic audacity remains alive at every level of the market.
Fratello Instagram Favorites 2025: Which Watches Received The Most Likes, Comments, And Views?
Fratello’s review of its most-liked 2025 Instagram posts highlights how varied the audience’s tastes have become. Surprises like the Serica Expedition bracelet and the Singer Caballero shared space with stalwarts such as vintage Rolex GMT-Master 1675s and the divisive new Land-Dweller. The Cartier Santos in titanium emerged as the year’s breakout hit, overturning early skepticism to become a community favorite. Collabs with pop culture, like Hamilton’s Call of Duty tie-in, and niche pieces like WRK Timepieces’ ACF-2 also drew strong engagement, illustrating how both icons and oddities can capture attention online.
Our Favorite Microbrand Watches Under $1,000 from 2025
At sub‑$1,000, 2025’s microbrand landscape was packed with well-resolved, no-nonsense designs. Brew’s Metric Manual Wind upgraded to a Swiss mechanical movement without losing its playful, retro charm, while the Typsim 100M offered a historically faithful diver with modern build quality. Lorier’s Merlin and Baltic’s Aquascaphe MK2 revisited compact tool-watch proportions with thoughtful tweaks, and Anders & Co.’s stone-dial AC2 Volcán brought tactile luxury into an attainable bracket. Kiwame Tokyo’s Iwao and other field-inspired pieces rounded out a group that prioritized honest specs, clean design, and minimal hype.
The Latest Time
Bernhardt Watch Company
The Bernhardt Cipher Diver Brings a Hidden Cipher to an Affordable Tool Watch
The Cipher Diver is a 41mm, 300-meter-rated diver created with Monticello to mark the 250th anniversary of the United States. Its party trick is a rotating cipher mechanism under the sapphire bezel, paired with UV-reactive ink, a UV torch, and an initial cipher card so wearers can encode and decode messages. Powered by the Miyota 9039 automatic movement, it includes a 120-click bezel, BGW9 Super-Luminova, and a micro-adjust clasp. Limited to 100 pieces and assembled and hand-regulated in the U.S., it is priced at $795.
Citizen
Citizen’s New $600 Chronograph Is Solar and Sporty
The Endeavor Chrono is a solar-powered sports chronograph that combines Citizen’s Eco-Drive technology with a 43mm stainless steel case and 100 meters of water resistance. Its nautical-inspired wave-textured dial, 60-minute bezel, and three-register layout keep it versatile for timing duties and everyday wear. Luminous markers and straightforward design cues favor legibility and durability over flash. Pricing starts at $595 on a rubber strap, with the stainless steel bracelet version coming in at $650.
Voutilainen
The new Voutilainen 216TMZ Worldtime
The Voutilainen 216TMZ Worldtime is a 39mm stainless steel world-timer that pairs a hand-guilloché blue dial with Kari Voutilainen’s direct-impulse double escapement movement. It offers an intuitive 24-time-zone display via a rotating city ring and central hands, backed by a 65-hour power reserve and a finely tuned balance spring system. Hand-decorated German silver plates and bridges, along with a grey crocodile strap, underscore its haute horlogerie credentials. Priced at CHF 183,500 before tax, it converts to roughly $230,500 based on the latest exchange rate and can be customized with options like a personalized city disc and dial.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Bell & Ross
Bell & Ross BR-X3 Watch Review: The Brand’s Signature Case Finally Gets Its Signature Movement
The BR-X3 brings Bell & Ross’s square case together with the BR-CAL.323 manufacture movement, previously seen in the BR-05 line, in a more wearable 41mm package. Offered in steel, titanium, and Night Vision carbon fiber, the case integrates functional drainage details and cleaner dial symmetry for better legibility. A blue dial with Super-LumiNova X1 and a COSC-certified, 70-hour movement underline its technical credibility. Priced at $7,200 USD, it feels like one of the brand’s most complete expressions of its tool-watch design language.
Blancpain
Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie
The Grande Double Sonnerie is a tour de force chiming watch that can play two selectable melodies via a four-note striking mechanism. Its movement took eight years to develop and combines grande and petite sonnerie functions, a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar with retrograde date, and a flying tourbillon in a 1,053-part caliber protected by 21 patents. A 47mm gold case and a specialized gold membrane are engineered specifically for resonance and sound projection. Although not formally limited, production is capped at about two pieces per year, with prices starting at CHF 1.7 million.
Christopher Ward
Hands-On With The Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Extreme GMT
The C63 Sealander Extreme GMT is a 41mm adventure watch that mixes everyday wearability with genuine tool capability. Its stainless steel case, black sandblasted ceramic bezel, and bright Super-LumiNova details give it a modern, legible look, while the Sellita SW330-2 automatic GMT movement offers reliable dual-time functionality. Comfort and versatility are emphasized through options for both a steel Bader bracelet and a Cordura V-Strap. At €1,895 on the bracelet and €1,695 on the strap, it undercuts many big-name GMT competitors while delivering strong design and build quality.
Maen
Maen Manhattan 39 Ultra Thin Watch Review: Slim And Elegant Doesn’t Need To Be Expensive
The Manhattan 39 Ultra Thin delivers a sleek, integrated-bracelet look without chasing the price tier of icons like the Nautilus or Royal Oak. At 39mm wide and only 6.9mm thick, it wears flat and dressy, powered by a hand-wound ETA Peseux 7001 with roughly a two-day power reserve. Its “airplane window” oval dial, vertical striping, and applied markers create a distinctive face, especially in colors like the ice-blue variant, though contrast can make some dial text harder to read. With a well-finished three-link bracelet and butterfly clasp, it comes in at $1,354 USD, positioning itself as a thoughtful, original take on the slim steel sports watch.
Parmigiani Fleurier
A Closer Look At A 2025 Masterpiece: Parmigiani Fleurier La Ravenale
La Ravenale is a one-of-a-kind pocket watch that channels Michel Parmigiani’s fascination with proportion and nature, drawing inspiration from Madagascar’s Traveller’s Palm. At its heart is a restored 1920s Ed. Koehn minute repeater movement, whose bridges are engraved with palm motifs and framed by a back marquetry of opal and jade that explores themes of ephemerality and permanence. The piece is completed by a hand-forged white gold chain and finely engraved components, emphasizing the role of human touch in high watchmaking. Sold with a dedicated display stand, La Ravenale reads as both a horological object and a sculptural tribute to Parmigiani’s lifelong pursuit of beauty.
Comparing Time
Best pocket watches
This overview revisits the often-overlooked world of pocket watches, from budget-friendly options like the Bulova Sutton to avant-garde pieces such as the Hublot Arsham Droplet. It compares modern designs with enhanced features—like automatic movements, creative drainage solutions, and contemporary materials—to more traditional, heritage-inspired pieces like the Tissot Savonnette Mechanical. At the high end, watches such as the Richard Mille RM 020, Breguet’s Marie-Antoinette N°1160, and Parmigiani Fleurier’s L’Armoriale Unique show how complications and artistry converge. The piece closes by arguing that vintage pocket watches, especially minute repeaters, remain undervalued opportunities for collectors.
4 Best Affordable Racing Chronographs Worth Adding to Your Collection
This comparison looks at four budget-conscious racing chronographs: the Dan Henry 1964 Gran Turismo, Vaer R1, Nezumi Voiture, and Gavox Roads Chronograph. Each brings its own mix of case size, water resistance, and movement type, with the Dan Henry leaning into vintage cues and the Vaer R1 emphasizing rugged build and retro charm. The Nezumi Voiture stands out for classic motorsport styling and distinctive color palettes, while the Gavox Roads adds extra practicality through features like an alarm and extended totalizer. Together they show how enthusiasts can get satisfying design and functionality without stepping into luxury price brackets.
Best pink dial watches
This guide gathers 16 pink dial watches to show how the color has moved from niche to mainstream across sport, casual, and dress designs. It covers everything from accessible pieces like the Casio G-Shock “CasiOak” GMAS2100BA4A and Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRP839 to higher-end options like Grand Seiko’s cherry-blossom-toned Heritage SBGA413. At the very top, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante ‘Arctic Rose’ illustrates how a shifting pink dial can feel both subtle and extravagant. The comparison underscores that pink now reads less as a stereotype and more as a versatile, expressive choice in modern collections.
Six tourbillons to start the new year!
Here, six tourbillon wristwatches are set side by side to illustrate different philosophies of high-end watchmaking. More approachable entries like the Ba111od Chapter 4 Infinity Flying Tourbillon with Moonphase contrast with rarified pieces such as Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Tourbillon, which puts its ultra-thin movement fully on display. Czapek’s Antarctique Tourbillon and Vacheron Constantin’s Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface bring brand heritage into the mix with architectural dials and complex layouts. The article reflects on why tourbillons continue to fascinate collectors, even as their practical necessity in wristwatches remains debatable.
Best Digital Watches We’ve Worn and Tested Over the Last Decade
This piece compares a range of digital watches that have been thoroughly worn and tested, highlighting models like the Casio F‑91W, Timex Expedition T5K463, and G‑Shock DW9052. The focus is on how they perform day to day, from gym sessions and outdoor use to casual city wear, emphasizing durability, water resistance, and ease of use. It also spotlights more specialized choices like the Citizen Ana‑Digi Temp and Promaster Aqualand, which add features such as temperature readouts and dive-computer capabilities. Collectively, the lineup demonstrates that digital watches can be practical, tough, and visually appealing, not just nostalgic gadgets.
Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko 5 “Gene Kranz” Vs. Seiko “Rotocall” Re-Editions
This showdown pits two Seiko re‑editions against each other: the analog Seiko 5 “Gene Kranz” and the digitally oriented Seiko “Rotocall.” The Gene Kranz models honor the Apollo 13 flight director with vintage-styled dials, robust automatic movements, and everyday-wearable specs. The Rotocall, with its digital display and distinctive rotating bezel, leans into 1970s–1980s space-age charm and recalls its historic use in actual missions. With similar pricing but very different vibes and histories, the comparison invites readers to decide whether they favor classic analog romance or quirky digital nostalgia.
Repairing Time
How To Change Your MoonSwatch Battery
This guide explains how MoonSwatch owners can easily replace their watch’s battery once it runs out. The simplest option is to visit a Swatch boutique, where staff will replace the battery free of charge and let you browse current models while you wait. For a DIY approach, you can use a 394 silver oxide battery and a small screwdriver to open the battery compartment, swap the cell, and reseal the watch. The article emphasizes that straightforward serviceability has helped the MoonSwatch outlast its “hype” phase and settle into long-term daily wear for many enthusiasts.
Watching Time
Fratello Talks: The Best Entry-Level Watches To Start A Collection In 2026
Is Now the Time to Buy a Rolex… Or Wait? —] Pull The Crown
Asking what watches people are wearing in NYC - Street Interview Ep.112
This Rolex Price Hike Makes NO SENSE!
The definitive guide: Buying your first luxury watch
This is NOT What I Expected at all
Watch Shopping with Subscribers (Over 10 Customers Featured)
The Best Value Watch From Every Brand
Talking Time
SJX Podcast: Best of 2025 – Surprises
This episode of the SJX Podcast looks back at 2025’s most unexpected developments in watchmaking, from Rolex’s Land-Dweller with its new Dynapulse escapement to Breguet’s experimental magnetic constant-force mechanism. The discussion also covers TAG Heuer’s progress in industrializing carbon hairsprings, signaling how materials science is reshaping mainstream calibers. Vacheron Constantin’s monumental 150 kg astronomical clock, created for its 270th anniversary and exhibited at the Louvre alongside a companion wristwatch, rounds out the year’s highlights. The episode closes as a thank-you to listeners and a reflection on how bold 2025 turned out to be for horology.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[The New Year’s Day auction watch, the 2024 Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier 42MM Skeleton Dial Leather Strap (RDDBEX0953)- was bid to $15,600 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
Hautlence Jump Hour Retrograde L.E. 41MM Mother Of Pearl Dial Leather Strap (HLC3)
Auction Report Title: “The 88-Piece Curveball: Hautlence’s Jump Hour in Mother-of-Pearl”
If you like your independent watchmaking a little off-axis—literally—this HAUTLENCE Jump Hour Retrograde (HLC3) is the kind of piece that reminds you why the category exists. The HLC line is built around a signature display: a jumping hour paired with a retrograde minute arc, a combination that is equal parts mechanical theater and practical daily readability. The format traces back to the brand’s early identity—architectural dials, unusual time indications, and a willingness to make “telling time” feel like a design decision rather than a default setting.
This specific HLC3 variant leans dressy and slightly mischievous. The case is 41mm in white gold, and at least some HLC 03 executions are diamond-set (and commonly described that way in auction and market listings), with a mother-of-pearl dial that softens the whole composition into something closer to “avant-garde formal” than “tool watch cosplay.” The movement architecture for the model family is typically manual-wind, built to drive the jumping hour and the retrograde minute sweep, and the watch is part of a limited edition run of 88 pieces, which is the sort of number independents love because it sounds exclusive without sounding like a joke.
On “value and history,” the market tells a fairly consistent story: this is a legitimately interesting independent complication, but it trades in a band where condition, completeness, and exact configuration matter a lot. Public auction results show an HLC 03 example selling at Christie’s Online in Geneva for CHF 11,250 (with an estimate of CHF 8,000–14,000), which is a useful anchor because it reflects a real-world bid/fee environment rather than an optimistic retail ask. On the resale side, current listings for “HLC3” commonly sit in the mid-to-high teens up into the low $20Ks, depending on set, condition, and how aggressively the seller believes in the “88 pieces” speech. In practical terms, a fair expectation for a clean, correctly described example tends to cluster around the “strong teens,” with upside if it presents as especially sharp (and especially complete), and downside if condition is merely “good,” if diamonds are present but tired, or if the watch feels like it’s missing the full brand story in the box/papers department.
That brings us to the listing details. The seller calls it good condition and notes additional items and papers, but the papers are undated. That’s not fatal—plenty of independents trade on “open papers”—but it does change the negotiation dynamic because buyers can’t use the paperwork to lock in provenance, production year, or service history with confidence. In this tier, that uncertainty often expresses itself as either a softer hammer price or more aggressive pre-close bidding discipline. If the auction photos show crisp case lines, clean stones (if present), and a dial that reads as luminous rather than cloudy (mother-of-pearl can be stunning, but it can also punish bad photography), then this becomes a compelling “independent complication for mainstream money” opportunity. If the photos show wear that’s more than polite, the safe play is to bid as if you’ll be the one paying for the watch’s next chapter—because you probably will be.
The auction ends tonight, Monday, January 5, 2026 at 10:34 pm (Eastern).
My buy-side view is simple: if you want a watch that signals “I got bored of the obvious stuff years ago,” the HLC3 is legitimately satisfying. You’re buying the display and the design language—jump hour plus retrograde minutes in an architectural dial—wrapped in a limited run that is genuinely small. Just be ruthless about price discipline given the “good condition” grade and undated papers. If bidding stays in the range suggested by real auction history, it’s a smart, character-heavy pickup. If it climbs toward the top of the current ask-market, it stops being a value story and turns into a purity test.
Current bid: $5,000