BuyingTime Daily - January 30, 2026
Zenith prices rise Feb 1, Rolex joins LIV, Swiss exports wobble, and new drops from Hermès, G-SHOCK, and Timex—plus a wild Chaykin Joker auction.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Today’s edition of Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe has a little bit of everything—pricing pressure, market reality checks, and a healthy dose of new watch energy to keep things interesting. Zenith led the day’s hard news with confirmation that prices across the collection will rise on February 1, a reminder that the window for “old pricing” is closing fast and that cost pressures in Swiss watchmaking aren’t easing up. Rolex grabbed headlines for a very different reason, officially aligning itself with LIV Golf in a move that underscores just how aggressively the tour is courting blue-chip partners as it continues to challenge golf’s traditional power structure.
On the auction front, attention turned to an ultra-rare Richard Mille RM 59-01 Yohan Blake Tourbillon offered with no reserve at Wilsons Auctions, a fascinating and slightly surreal example of how high horology can surface in unexpected venues. Zooming out, the macro picture remained mixed. China’s luxury market showed signs of stabilizing in 2025, but watches were still under notable pressure as consumers redirected capital elsewhere, while Swiss export data confirmed that a tariff-driven surge to the U.S. in December couldn’t quite rescue what was ultimately a down year overall. High-end names continue to hold their ground, but the middle of the market is feeling squeezed.
Feature and editorial pieces added some texture to the day. A look back at the Timex Q Red Nebula reminded us that cinematic watch moments aren’t always the obvious ones, while Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75th anniversary collaborations highlighted how regional culture and thoughtful partnerships can still produce genuinely compelling limited editions. New watch launches kept things lively, from Christopher Ward’s Pan Am-inspired C60 Clipper GMT to G-SHOCK’s art-driven MRG collaboration, Hermès’ beautifully engineered Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune, and fresh releases from Split Watches, Swatch, and Timex that reinforced just how much creativity is still flowing across all price points.
Reviews and forward looks rounded things out, with Zenith’s Defy Revival A3643 sparking a broader conversation about the state of reissues, and Tudor’s approaching 100th anniversary setting expectations for Watches and Wonders 2026 without leaning too hard on nostalgia. The video lineup leaned philosophical and practical in equal measure, touching on why analog still matters, collector reset moments, and a few collaborations worth your time. Finally, the Auction Report zeroed in on the 2020 Konstantin Chaykin Joker Titanium, a genuinely theatrical 1-of-88 piece that sits right at the intersection of whimsy, scarcity, and real auction intrigue as it heads into tonight’s close.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
Zenith Prices to Climb February 1st.
Zenith has announced a price increase for its collection, effective February 1. This adjustment is anticipated to affect the positioning of certain models within the brand’s lineup, which may influence the purchasing decisions of collectors and buyers looking to make acquisitions in the near term. Those considering adding a Zenith watch to their collection have a limited time to review current prices before the increase takes effect. While specific details regarding the scope or percentage of the price adjustment have not been disclosed, such changes are often indicative of broader cost pressures within the Swiss watch industry.
Rolex Signs With Controversial LIV Golf Tour
Rolex has partnered with the controversial LIV Golf tour, which has attracted significant attention for its lavish financial incentives, including substantial sign-on fees and tournament prizes. The collaboration aims to enhance the hospitality experience for Rolex guests, emphasizing the brand’s commitment to excellence in golf, a sport in which it already plays a prominent role as a sponsor of major tournaments like the Ryder Cup and the four golf majors. The partnership comes at a pivotal time, as LIV Golf attempts to distinguish itself from established tours like the PGA and DP World, which have traditionally dominated the landscape. LIV Golf CEO Scott O’Neil highlights the brand’s association with precision and performance, aiming to create a unique hospitality program that aligns with Rolex’s prestigious image.
Ultra-rare Richard Mille Offered With No Reserve at Wilsons Auctions
An ultra-rare Richard Mille RM 59-01 Yohan Blake Tourbillon is currently being auctioned without a reserve price by Wilsons Auctions, marking a significant opportunity for collectors. This model, launched in 2013 and limited to just 50 pieces, showcases a design inspired by Jamaican colors and features a high-complication tourbillon movement, making it one of the brand’s most ambitious sports watches. The current bidding stands at approximately £12,010 (around $16,500), with expectations for the price to rise before the auction closes. Wilsons Auctions, established nearly 90 years ago, has curated the auction catalog exclusively from assets recovered under the UK’s Proceeds of Crime Act, ensuring that proceeds benefit the public.
China’s luxury market stabilises as watches remain under pressure
China’s personal luxury goods market experienced a contraction of 3% to 5% in 2025, marking a notable slowdown compared to the sharp decline in 2024. Despite cautious consumer confidence, early signs of recovery emerged in the latter half of the year, supported by a stronger stock market and improved sentiment. While beauty products saw growth of 4% to 7%, categories like fashion and leather goods faced declines, and watches suffered a significant drop of 14% to 17% as consumers shifted towards alternative investments. The secondhand luxury market is expanding rapidly, growing by 15% to 20% year on year, though it still represents less than 10% of the primary market.
Swiss Watch Exports To U.S. Surge In December Capping Volatile And Down Year For Industry
In December, Swiss watch exports to the U.S. experienced a significant surge due to the rollback of tariffs, increasing nearly 20% in value compared to the previous year. However, this spike was insufficient to offset an overall decline in total annual exports, which fell by 1.7% in value and 4.8% in volume during 2025. Looking ahead, analysts anticipate that 2026 may present further challenges for the Swiss watch industry amid concerns regarding trade policy and rising material costs. The market is increasingly bifurcated, with high-end luxury brands like Rolex and Cartier sustaining growth, while many mainstream brands face pressure.
Swiss Watch Exports Down 1.7% to CHF 25.5 billion in 2025, Uncertain Outlook for 2026 - Read More >
Feature Time
A Look at the Timex Q Nebula, the Forgotten Pulp Fiction Watch
The Timex Q Red Nebula, often overshadowed by the Lancet trench watch featured in Pulp Fiction, deserves recognition as a notable timepiece in the film. While the Lancet watch gains significant attention due to its memorable scene, the Red Nebula can be spotted on John Travolta’s wrist throughout the movie, showcasing its unique design and historical significance. Released in 1977, the Red Nebula features a striking dial and superior drainage capabilities, making it both an aesthetic and functional choice for watch enthusiasts. Finding a Timex Q Red Nebula in good condition can be challenging, with prices typically ranging from $200 to $400.
Editorial Time
New Chapters in Seddiqi’s Legacy
Ahmed Seddiqi is celebrating 75 years in the watch industry not with a retrospective but through a series of collaborative limited-edition releases that reflect the brand’s deep-rooted relationships and commitment to horological excellence. Each piece showcases the brand’s understanding of Middle Eastern culture and its long history with luxury watchmaking. Collaborations with various watchmakers such as Atelier Wen, Chronoswiss, and Gerald Charles highlight unique craftsmanship and cultural symbolism, including the use of materials like tantalum and designs that represent the rich heritage of the region. The limited editions range from the Inflection 沙焰 by Atelier Wen, a grand feu enamel timepiece, to the Diver [AIR] by Ulysse Nardin, celebrated for its lightweight design and innovative materials.
The Latest Time
Christopher Ward
Christopher Ward Announces C60 Clipper GMT IN Collaboration With Pan Am
Christopher Ward has unveiled the C60 Clipper GMT, a limited edition watch created in collaboration with Pan Am Airlines, celebrating the legacy of aviation during its golden age. This 707-piece collection features a 42mm Light-catcher case and a bi-directional blue aluminum bezel that displays airport codes for 24 significant destinations linked to Pan Am’s history. The watch incorporates the Sellita SW330-2 GMT movement, which offers a 56-hour power reserve and maintains a water resistance of 300 meters, while its unique design includes a seconds hand shaped like a Pan Am Clipper plane. Priced at $1,995, the C60 Clipper GMT is now available directly from Christopher Ward.
G-Shock
G-SHOCK MRGB2000KT3A “Kobayashi Masao”
The G-SHOCK MRGB2000KT3A “Kobayashi Masao” is a limited edition watch that showcases the craftsmanship of master metalsmith Kobayashi Masao, featuring a striking phoenix engraving on the bezel. This model, part of the MRG-B2000 series, is distinguished by its deep-layer hardened titanium bezel with a unique blue-green hue, enhanced by a green DLC coating and brown Arc Ion Plating. Equipped with a multitude of features including Bluetooth connectivity, solar power, and 27 time zones, the MRGB2000KT3A combines functionality with durability, boasting a water resistance of up to 200 meters. Limited to just 800 pieces worldwide, each watch carries a unique serial number and retails for $8,000.
Hermès
Hermès Announces a Skeletonized Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune Timepiece
Hermès has unveiled the Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune, a sophisticated skeletonized watch crafted from titanium and platinum. This timepiece features the ultra-thin H1953 caliber, which includes a double moonphase complication and offers a 48-hour power reserve. The watch is presented in a 39.5mm case with options for a bead-blasted titanium or platinum finish, revealing an openworked dial that beautifully interacts with light. The self-winding H1953 caliber is a marvel of Swiss craftsmanship, measuring just 3.57 mm thick and containing 178 components.
Hermès shows off its watchmaking chops with the Squelette Lune - Read More >
New Titanium and Platinum Editions of the Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune - Read More >
Split Watches
Split Watches Unveils “In The Skies” – A World-First Full-Glow...
Split Watches has introduced In The Skies, a groundbreaking chronograph that marks the culmination of their MC series. Developed over eighteen months, this watch is notable for being the brand’s first fully luminescent model, setting it apart as the first of its kind in full production. The standout feature of In The Skies lies in its exceptional luminosity, achieved through a unique manufacturing process that infuses Japanese luminous powder into the watch’s materials. Measuring 42mm in diameter and limited to only 250 pieces, this chronograph is priced at $2,250.
Swatch
Masterpieces of Modernism: Swatch Debuts Guggenheim Collaboration
Swatch has launched a new collaboration with the Guggenheim, featuring four exquisite watches inspired by notable 20th-century art masterpieces from the museum’s collections in New York and Venice. This collection includes works by Monet, Degas, Klee, and Pollock, all designed to provide accessible pricing and mass production, making art wearable for everyone. The watches come in two sizes—41 mm and 34 mm—and are made from plastic with a water resistance of 30 meters. Priced between $105 and $115, they cater to impulse buyers while offering a compelling value proposition.
Timex
This New Timex Automatic Might Make You Forget About Your Vintage Omega
Timex has introduced the Marlin Draper Automatic, a watch that reimagines its classic Marlin line with a distinct mid-century design. The 37mm stainless steel case features a barrel-shaped cushion profile and is available in three variations: a straightforward black dial with an all-stainless case, a gold-on-silver option with a white dial, and a white dial paired with a brown leather strap. Each version maintains key features like an automatic movement, an exhibition caseback, and luminous hands, while the clean dial layout emphasizes practicality. With pricing ranging from $269 to $309, the Marlin Draper Automatic aligns well with the brand’s goal of offering thoughtfully styled, accessible timepieces.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Zenith
The Zenith Defy Revival A3643 And The Current State Of Reissues
The Zenith Defy Revival A3643 is a faithful reissue of a 1969 design, showcasing Zenith’s commitment to accurately reviving its heritage. The watch features a carefully designed case with a 14-sided bezel that captures the angular aesthetics of the late 1960s, complemented by a vintage-inspired dial crafted from a 3D scan of the original. With a depth rating of 300 meters and powered by the reliable Elite 670 automatic movement, the A3643 is positioned as a diving watch that seamlessly transitions into an everyday accessory. Priced at $7,800, the A3643 competes within a crowded market yet stands out due to its strong lineage and design integrity.
Watches and Wonders 2026
Tudor Turns 100—What the Brand Will and Won’t Do for Watches and Wonders 2026
Tudor is approaching its centennial in 2026, and the brand is poised to unveil significant innovations during Watches and Wonders 2026. The introduction of the Kenissi movement, exemplified by the new 18K solid yellow gold ‘Big Block’ chronograph, demonstrates Tudor’s commitment to technical independence and long-term planning. As Tudor prepares to celebrate its 100th anniversary, it is expected to debut a modern Big Block chronograph and an expanded 1926 Collection that introduces precious metals and complications. However, the brand will avoid vintage reissues that may draw unfavorable comparisons with Rolex, opting instead for products that maintain a distinct identity.
Watching Time - Videos
Fratello Talks: Why We Chose Analog Watches In A Digital World
In a world increasingly dominated by digital technology, the discussion centers on the enduring appeal of analog watches. The choice to embrace these timepieces is rooted in a desire for authenticity and a deeper connection to craftsmanship, which many find lacking in their digital counterparts. Analog watches evoke a sense of nostalgia and appreciation for the art of horology, providing not just a means to tell time but also a personal statement and an experience that transcends mere functionality. By choosing analog, individuals express their values and preferences, prioritizing quality and tradition over the fleeting convenience of digital devices.
Revealed: The MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription 5 Chronographe Tachymètre, made with Angelus.
The MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription 5 Chronographe Tachymètre, created in collaboration with Angelus, showcases a sophisticated design that appeals to watch enthusiasts. The chronograph features an elegant yet functional tachymetric scale, which allows for precise measurement of speed and distance. This timepiece is not only a statement of luxury but also represents a blend of craftsmanship and innovation in horology. The collaboration with Angelus adds a layer of prestige, ensuring that the watch not only meets but exceeds the expectations of collectors and aficionados alike.
From Daytona to Royal Oak: A Hard Reset as a Collector — Pull The Crown
The video explores the journey of a watch collector navigating the highs and lows of their passion. It reflects on the emotional and financial challenges faced when transitioning from one iconic timepiece, the Daytona, to another, the Royal Oak. The narrative emphasizes the significance of personal choices in collecting and the necessity of reevaluating one’s collection strategy. The overarching message speaks to the resilience required to adapt and reset one’s collecting focus, ultimately aiming for a more fulfilling and meaningful collection.
This New Christopher Ward is the Collaboration We Needed
The new collaboration from Christopher Ward is a highly anticipated release that promises to make a significant impact in the watch community. It showcases a unique blend of craftsmanship and innovative design, appealing to both enthusiasts and casual wearers alike. This partnership is seen as a much-needed refreshing addition to the brand’s lineup, emphasizing quality and style. With the collaboration, expectations are high for a product that not only meets aesthetic standards but also delivers on performance and reliability.
When GOOGLE developers design a LUXURY WATCH | Watch Drop #262
The video explores the creative process and innovative techniques employed by Google developers in designing a luxury timepiece. It delves into the intersection of technology and craftsmanship, showcasing how modern advancements can influence traditional watchmaking. The narrative highlights the unique features and functionalities that set this luxury watch apart from conventional timepieces, emphasizing both aesthetic appeal and technological sophistication. In addition to the design aspects, the video provides insights into the challenges faced during the development phase, including balancing high-end materials with cutting-edge technology.
ON TIME | TUDOR IS BETTER THAN ROLEX! (HERE’S WHY)
The video explores the reasons why Tudor watches may be considered superior to Rolex. It delves into aspects such as design, functionality, and value for money, highlighting the unique features of Tudor that set it apart from its more famous counterpart. In addition to comparing the two brands, the video provides insights into the craftsmanship and heritage of Tudor, emphasizing the brand’s commitment to quality and innovation. Viewers are encouraged to appreciate the distinct characteristics of Tudor watches and see them as a formidable alternative to Rolex, which has long dominated the luxury watch market.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Thursday’s auction watch, the Patek Philippe Complications Chronograph 39MM Silver Dial Leather Strap (5170G-0 - was bid to $40,000 but did not meet the reserve of $73,500. - make an offer]
2020 Konstantin Chaykin Joker Classic L.E. 42MM Silver Dial Leather Strap (K07-O.Ti01.03)
Auction Report: Konstantin Chaykin Joker Titanium (K07-O.Ti01.03): The 1-of-88 “Wristmon” That Turned Timekeeping Into Theater
This Grailzee lot is a 2020 Konstantin Chaykin Joker Classic/Joker Titanium, reference K07-O.Ti01.03, presented by the seller in very good condition with box, additional items, and papers dated July 20, 2020. It’s a limited edition of 88 pieces, and the listing specifies a 42mm titanium case, sapphire crystal, silver dial, leather strap, and automatic movement.
If you’re new to Chaykin, the “Joker” is the watch that effectively launched the brand’s modern cult status. Chaykin introduced the original Joker at BaselWorld in 2017 as the first piece in his “Wristmons” collection—an anthropomorphic dial concept where the “eyes” tell the hours and minutes and the “mouth” is a moonphase. The brand frames it as the genesis of a now-large Wristmons family, and that origin story matters because collectors tend to buy the joke and the provenance.
On the wrist, the appeal is that it’s whimsical without being disposable: the Joker layout changes how you read time, but it’s still intuitive after about five minutes. The titanium execution, in particular, leans into the watch’s “technical” side—lighter, darker, and more utilitarian than steel—while keeping the character front-and-center. The titanium Joker configuration is commonly described with details like a guilloché-style white/silver dial, “suit” motifs on the bezel, 30 meters of water resistance, and an automatic movement with roughly a ~38-hour power reserve, which is consistent with how specialist retailers have presented the reference.
Value is where you have to separate asking from getting paid. Public listings for this exact reference have recently floated in the high-$20Ks to mid-$30Ks (for example, one dealer asking $28,900 and another at $36,500). That’s the retail gravity. Auction gravity is often lower, and a useful data point is an auction result aggregation that shows a Joker Titanium (K07/-0 TI01.03) selling for about $25,919 in mid-2025—close enough in reference structure to be directionally helpful even if condition/set and venue differ. Put differently, if bidding stays stuck in the low-to-mid $20Ks, you’re in the zone where auctions can start to look like a value play versus dealer asks; if it pushes deep into the $30Ks, you’re paying retail-ish money and you’ll want the “full set + clean condition + you really want this exact piece” box checked.
One more practical note: Grailzee’s page calls this “Joker Classic,” but the reference and case material read as titanium (K07-O.Ti01.03), and the broader market often labels this configuration “Joker Titanium.” Either way, the collector thesis is the same—an early, highly legible expression of Chaykin’s Wristmons idea, in a genuinely scarce run of 88.
The auction is scheduled to end Friday, January 30, 2026 at 9:22pm (tonight). Going into the close, I’d be focused on two things: whether the watch presents as crisp in the photos around the dial furniture/printing (because the face is the whole point), and whether the included set (box, extras, dated papers) is complete and consistent with the listing—because that’s what keeps you liquid if you ever decide the joke has run its course.
Current bid: $8,000