BuyingTime Daily - January 29, 2026
Rolex joins LIV Golf, Frederique Constant courts padel, standout new releases, sharp hands-on reviews, and videos tackling where the watch market heads next.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Here’s today’s snapshot of the watch world, where brand strategy, product launches, and community-building all share the stage. Frederique Constant makes a notable first move into sports sponsorship by becoming the official timekeeper of the Professional Padel League, a fast-growing North American circuit that gives the brand fresh U.S. exposure and a clear lifestyle adjacency, with hints of a co-branded watch still to come. Rolex, meanwhile, continues to widen its orbit by striking a partnership with LIV Golf, signaling a willingness to engage newer audiences and formats while still leveraging its deep roots in the game.
On the editorial side, a deeply personal owner’s review of the vintage Rolex Day-Date ref. 1803 reminds us why certain watches transcend specs and price charts. This piece leans into memory, symbolism, and life stages, framing the Day-Date not just as a statement of status, but as a watch that carries emotional and generational weight, pie-pan dial and President bracelet included. Elsewhere, WatchPro announced the launch of its inaugural Women in Watches event, set for March in New York, pairing meaningful industry recognition with networking and conversation just ahead of International Women’s Day.
New releases were plentiful and diverse. Astor+Banks unveiled the Terra Scout, a thoughtfully sized modern field watch powered by the La Joux-Perret G100 and offered in both standard and limited Cerakote finishes. Atelier Wen followed with the Millésime 2025 Perception, elevating natural pietersite stone into a richly layered dial that blends Chinese design influence with contemporary watchmaking. At the higher end, H. Moser & Cie. showcased the Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton in red gold, a study in restraint and openworked elegance, while Piaget leaned into heritage luxury with the Polo 79 Two-Tone, intertwining white and yellow gold in a boldly nostalgic yet modern expression. Rounding out the spectrum, Héron refreshed its Marinor dive watch with practical upgrades at a sharp price point, Mermont debuted one of the most accessible platinum mechanical watches on the market with La Parfaite, and the microbrand dive-watch conversation continued to gain momentum.
Hands-on reviews added texture, with A. Lange & Söhne proving once again that digital displays can be beautiful through the Zeitwerk Date in pink gold, Bianchet pushing material science to extremes with its featherweight UltraFino Carbon tourbillon, and Maen refining its Hudson 38 into a slimmer, more compelling everyday diver. Comparative coverage also took a practical turn, spotlighting standout microbrand dive watches that earn their reputation through real-world use rather than hype.
On the video front, there’s plenty to queue up, from a philosophical detour into decision-making and time, to a wide-ranging discussion on a potential 2026 watch market downturn, brand strategy at Swatch Group, and Tudor versus Omega. Add in rundowns of unexpectedly good affordable watches, a full sweep of British Watchmakers Day releases, and a stylish Omega collaboration with The Rake, and your watch list is set.
Finally, on the auction side, the spotlight is firmly on tonight’s Patek Philippe Complications Chronograph 5170G-001. With the earlier Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix selling for $16,800, attention now turns to this full-set, hand-wound modern classic, currently bid at $40,000 and closing at 10:36pm. It’s a fitting capstone to a day that once again shows how wide—and interconnected—the modern watch universe has become.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
Frederique Constant Strikes First Sports Sponsorship With Pro Padel League Deal
Frederique Constant has entered into its first sports sponsorship by becoming the official timekeeper and watch of the Professional Padel League (PPL), a burgeoning competitive league featuring ten North American teams. This partnership marks a strategic move for the Swiss watchmaker as it seeks to expand its presence in the U.S. market. The PPL, which began in 2023, showcases both male and female players and will host five major events across North America in the upcoming season. Frederique Constant aims to capitalize on this partnership by including branded match clocks during events and plans to release a PPL-branded watch in the future.
Rolex Strikes Partnership Deal With LIV Golf
Rolex has entered into a partnership with LIV Golf, a professional golf league supported by Saudi Arabia’s Public Investment Fund. This collaboration aims to enhance Rolex’s exposure in new markets while offering exclusive hospitality programs for its guests. Despite facing some criticism regarding LIV Golf’s ties to Saudi Arabia, Rolex has maintained a long-standing presence in the golf world, sponsoring numerous prestigious tournaments. The partnership reflects Rolex’s strategy to expand its brand presence beyond its traditional associations and create unique experiences for its customers.
Feature Time
An owner’s review of the vintage Rolex Day-Date ref. 1803
The review explores the personal journey of acquiring a vintage Rolex Day-Date ref. 1803, detailing the emotional connections tied to the watch, particularly memories of the owner’s grandfather, who wore a similar model. The piece emphasizes how the Day-Date symbolizes authority and adulthood, contrasting with the owner’s earlier hesitations about wearing such a prominent timepiece. The review highlights the characteristics that make the ref. 1803 special, such as its unique pie-pan dial and the luxurious President bracelet, which together create a timeless aesthetic distinct from modern counterparts. Despite some practical drawbacks, the Day-Date is portrayed as an underrated piece that encapsulates history and personal significance, marking a meaningful stage in life rather than merely serving as a luxury item.
Event Time
WatchPro brings industry together with launch of exclusive Women in Watches event
In 2026, WatchPro will launch its inaugural Women in Watches event, designed to celebrate the contributions of women in the American watch industry, a space traditionally dominated by men. Set to take place in New York on March 6th, just before International Women’s Day, this breakfast gathering will provide a platform for successful women in the industry to connect and share their experiences. The event will feature over 80 attendees, including retail leaders, brand executives, and media professionals, beginning with a networking breakfast followed by two insightful panel discussions. Additionally, it will coincide with the launch of WatchPro’s annual ‘Women in Watches’ list, which will highlight influential women in the industry each year.
The Latest Time
Astor+Banks
Astor+Banks Launches the New Terra Scout, a Contemporary Take on the Classic Field Watch
Astor+Banks has introduced the Terra Scout, a modern interpretation of the classic field watch, designed to reflect both durability and contemporary style. The watch showcases a visually intricate multi-tiered dial, featuring an innovative date indicator that enhances usability while maintaining an instrument-like aesthetic. The watch is available in several case options, including a limited edition desert sand Cerakote, and runs on the LJP G100 automatic caliber with a 68-hour power reserve. Pre-orders for the Terra Scout are open until March 1, with an introductory price of $875 for standard models and $975 for the limited edition, before prices increase post-launch.
Introducing: The Astor + Banks Terra Scout - Read More >
Atelier Wen
Atelier Wen Millesime 2025 Perception with Pietersite Dial
Atelier Wen has introduced the limited edition Millésime 2025 Perception watch, featuring a unique Pietersite dial that embodies the beauty of nature. The design draws inspiration from traditional Chinese mountain-water landscape gardens, incorporating a four-layer dial crafted from natural pietersite stone, which showcases swirling patterns in deep blue-black tones accented with gold and brown. Powered by a customized Dandong Peacock SL1588A automatic movement, the watch provides a power reserve of approximately 41 hours and is regulated to within ±10 seconds per day. Pre-orders will be open from January 28 to February 6, 2026, with the first 225 pieces expected to ship in the second quarter of 2026 at a retail price of $3,600, excluding taxes and duties.
Read More >
H. Moser & Cie
H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton
The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton showcases a harmonious blend of elegance and technical prowess. Featuring a classic 40mm 5N red gold case, this watch includes an openworked flying tourbillon movement, the HMC 814, which is notable for its innovative design and functionality. With a power reserve of 72 hours and a bi-directional winding system, the movement emphasizes craftsmanship and reliability. This timepiece is complemented by a dark brown alligator nubuck leather strap and is priced at approximately $96,700 (CHF 85,400), reflecting H. Moser & Cie’s commitment to quality and sophistication in luxury watchmaking.
Heron
The Héron Marinor — An Updated Dive Watch From Canada
The Héron Marinor is an updated dive watch from the Montreal-based brand Héron, which first launched in 2023 via crowdfunding. This new version features enhancements in both design and functionality, including a stainless steel case hardened for scratch resistance and a reduced thickness that makes it more comfortable to wear. Equipped with a Miyota 9039 automatic movement, the Héron Marinor offers a 42-hour power reserve and comes with a unidirectional bezel, screw-down crown, and water resistance of up to 250 meters. With a price point of just $640, the Héron Marinor presents excellent value for those seeking a durable and stylish dive watch that combines retro design elements with modern specifications.
Mermont
Mermont’s La Parfaite Goes Platinum
Mermont has introduced its first watch, La Parfaite, a limited edition platinum timepiece that blends elegance and affordability. Priced at approximately $12,450 (CHF 10,998), this watch stands out in the market for being one of the most accessible mechanical platinum watches available. Designed by renowned watchmaker Nicolas Delaloye, La Parfaite features a 38 mm case, a unique dial with Breguet numerals, and a distinct hour hand that is hand-polished and heat-treated. With only 28 pieces in this limited edition, the watch is powered by the La Joux-Perret D101 movement and maintains a sleek profile at 9.3 mm in height with a power reserve of 50 hours.
Piaget
Introducing: Piaget Polo 79 Two-Tone—White and Yellow Gold Intertwined
The Piaget Polo 79 Two-Tone watch represents a sophisticated blend of white and yellow gold, continuing the legacy of the Polo collection that began in 1979. This limited edition features a 38 mm case and an integrated bracelet crafted from brushed white gold, complemented by polished yellow gold gadroons that enhance its visual depth. Powered by the ultra-thin calibre 1200P1 automatic movement, the watch boasts a remarkable power reserve and intricate finishing details, including blued screws and sunburst motifs. With a price tag of $90,000, it embodies Piaget’s commitment to luxury, making it an ideal choice for those who appreciate the fusion of tradition and contemporary design.
Read More >
Wearing Time - Reviews
A. Lange & Söhne
A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date 18k Pink-Gold Watch Hands-On: How Digital Remains Beautiful
The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date 18k Pink Gold watch combines the warmth of pink gold with a sophisticated digital display, offering a unique blend of analog aesthetics and digital legibility. It features a complex movement with 516 parts, providing a 72-hour power reserve and utilizing a constant force mechanism to ensure precise timekeeping. The watch’s innovative date display highlights the date against a red background tile, maintaining the visual harmony of the overall design. While not the most expensive in the lineup, priced at $132,000, it showcases the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship and detail, making it a rare and desirable piece for collectors and enthusiasts alike.
Bianchet
Hands-On: The Featherweight Bianchet B 1.618 UltraFino Carbon
The Bianchet B 1.618 UltraFino Carbon is an innovative watch that combines advanced materials with architectural design. Founded in 2021, Bianchet has created a lightweight timepiece featuring a 40mm carbon composite case that is only 8.9mm thick and weighs a mere 32 grams. Its openworked dial reveals the brand’s proprietary UT01 automatic flying tourbillon movement, which is ultra-thin and made entirely from titanium, contributing to the overall lightweight feel. Priced at CHF 65,500 and backed by a five-year warranty, the Bianchet B 1.618 UltraFino Carbon represents a remarkable achievement in the realm of haute horlogerie, appealing to collectors and enthusiasts alike.
Maen
Hands-On With The Redesigned Maen Hudson 38 MK5
The redesigned Maen Hudson 38 MK5 reintroduces a classic dive watch concept with a modern twist. This fifth iteration features a completely updated case design, measuring 38mm in diameter and 47mm lug-to-lug, which is slimmer than its predecessors. The automatic movement has been upgraded to the La Joux-Perret G100, offering a 68-hour power reserve and excellent accuracy. The watch can be purchased for €899 with a rubber strap or €1,088 with the stainless steel bracelet, making it an appealing choice for those in search of an affordable yet competent dive watch.
Read More >
Comparing Time
10 Best Dive Watches From Microbrands We’ve Ever Reviewed
Dive watches from microbrands have gained recognition for their reliability and functionality rather than their history or brand prestige. The selection showcases models that have been extensively tested in real-world scenarios, focusing on their durability and performance over initial impressions. Among the highlighted models, the Watchdives WD7922 stands out for its compact and balanced design, while other noteworthy models include the San Martin SN004, known for its strong lume and smooth bezel action, and the Scurfa Diver One, which combines lightweight titanium with practical readability. Each watch is evaluated not just on specifications, but also on how well they perform under regular conditions, making them compelling choices for those seeking functional dive watches that don’t compromise on style or usability.
Watching Time - Videos
I’m Just A Genie
Buying Time’s Rolex Reality Series returns. 15 seconds of pure entertainment.
2026 Watch Market Crash, Fixing Swatch Group, Tudor Vs Omega. 10k Subs Q & A
The video explores critical topics in the watch industry as it anticipates a market downturn in 2026. It delves into the challenges faced by the Swatch Group and discusses potential strategies for revitalizing the brand. Additionally, the video engages viewers by comparing Tudor and Omega, two prominent watchmakers, highlighting their unique features and market positions. The creator aims to inform and stimulate discussion among watch enthusiasts about the evolving dynamics within the watch market and the implications of upcoming trends.
These Affordable Watches Completely Caught Me Off Guard!
This video explores a selection of surprisingly affordable watches that may exceed expectations in terms of quality and design. The focus is on showcasing how budget-friendly options can still offer style and functionality, appealing to a wide range of viewers. The narrative emphasizes the value of these watches, highlighting various features that make them stand out in a crowded market. By presenting these affordable options, the video aims to inform and inspire viewers to consider alternatives that do not compromise on aesthetics or performance.
Every New Watch Release at the British Watchmakers Day!
The British Watchmakers Day is set to unveil every new watch release, showcasing the latest innovations and designs from various watchmakers. This event highlights the craftsmanship and creativity in the industry with a focus on sharing the excitement and advancements in watchmaking. The anticipation around new models and features promises to engage a wide audience, making it a significant date in the watch community’s calendar. Enthusiasts can expect to see a variety of styles and technologies that reflect current trends and timeless elegance in horology.
Omega - The Rake
This video project explores Omega watches in collaboration with The Rake. The content offers a unique perspective on the brand’s heritage and contemporary offerings. The engaging narrative and captivating visuals provide viewers with an in-depth look at what makes Omega a distinguished name in watchmaking. The video promises to deliver meaningful insights into the craftsmanship and innovation that define the brand.
Talking Time - Podcasts
The Business of Watches Podcast: Norqain CEO Ben Küffer On The NHL Partnership And The Challenge Of Standing Out In A Crowded Market
Ben Küffer, the CEO of Norqain, discusses the challenges faced by the brand in distinguishing itself within the competitive watch market. The conversation highlights Norqain’s unique strategy of collaborating with former and current professional athletes who serve as brand ambassadors, investors, and executives. A significant development for Norqain is its partnership with the National Hockey League, facilitated by co-founder Mark Streit and investor Sidney Crosby, which aims to elevate the brand’s visibility in the luxury watch sector. The episode also touches on the success of Norqain’s ‘Enjoy Life’ Freedom 60 chronograph and includes discussions on recent industry news.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Wednesday’s auction watch, the 2020 Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix 40MM Blue Dial Leather Strap (4000E/000A-B548)- was sold at auction for $16,800.
Patek Philippe Complications Chronograph 39MM Silver Dial Leather Strap (5170G-001)
Auction Report: Patek Philippe 5170G-001 — The “Modern Classic” Hand-Wound Chronograph (Full Set)
If you want the cleanest distillation of what Patek Philippe does best—classical design, obsessive finishing, and real mechanical substance—the ref. 5170 is a pretty direct line to the point. Tonight’s watch, the Patek Philippe Complications Chronograph 5170G-001, pairs a restrained 39mm white-gold Calatrava-style case with a silver/opaline dial and applied Arabic numerals, plus the brand’s in-house, hand-wound chronograph movement that helped define modern Patek Philippe collecting in the 2010s. (This reference is also a discontinued model.)
The seller describes the watch as being in very good condition, and importantly, it’s offered as a complete set with inner and outer boxes, additional items, and papers. In this tier of Patek Philippe, that “full set” detail is not window dressing—it’s a meaningful part of buyer confidence, resale liquidity, and long-term collectability, especially for references that have already left the catalog.
Under the dial is the story. The 5170 was introduced as the successor to the Lemania-based ref. 5070, and it marked Patek Philippe’s move to a fully in-house, manually wound chronograph caliber: the CH 29-535 PS. That movement is a traditional, column-wheel chronograph with an instantaneous 30-minute counter, small seconds, and a stated minimum 65-hour power reserve (with the chronograph disengaged). Patek Philippe lists it at 270 parts, 33 jewels, and finished to the Patek Philippe Seal standard.
For this specific variant, the 5170G-001 (white gold, silver dial) was introduced in 2013, with production commonly cited as running through about 2016, before the broader 5170 family eventually gave way to the ref. 5172G line. That places the 5170G-001 in a sweet spot: late enough to benefit from modern manufacturing and the in-house caliber, but early enough to feel like the “original statement” era of Patek’s contemporary, hand-wound chronograph renaissance.
Now, value. As of January 27, 2026, WatchCharts’ market price estimate for the 5170G-001 is $48,129. Real-world pricing still swings meaningfully based on condition, completeness, service history, and seller credibility; recent visible listings and prior sales examples tracked on WatchCharts span from the mid-$40Ks into the $50Ks+ (and higher asks exist, though not all translate into executed sales). Chrono24’s listing ecosystem also shows this reference across multiple production years and regions, which reinforces that it’s a globally traded, highly legible reference—again, assuming the set is correct and the watch is honestly represented.
What should bidders watch for tonight? First, confirm the papers match the watch (reference, case number where applicable, and dealer/dated details) and that the accessory set is consistent with the era. Second, scrutinize case condition—white gold is notorious for showing soft knocks and polishing history—so you want sharp definition on the lugs and bezel, plus clean pusher feel and reset behavior. Third, if there’s any service history, it matters: the CH 29-535 PS is robust, but this is not the place to “hope it’s fine.” And finally, remember that exotic straps (alligator/croc) can complicate cross-border shipment; some marketplaces flag that explicitly, and it can affect post-sale logistics.
Bottom line: the 5170G-001 is a high-signal Patek Philippe—elegant, historically important for the brand’s modern chronograph story, and wearable in a way many complicated pieces simply aren’t. If the condition truly aligns with “very good,” and the full set checks out cleanly, this is exactly the kind of watch that tends to hold its seat at the table even when the broader market gets moody.
The auction ends tonight at 10:36pm (Thursday, January 29, 2026).
Current bid: $40,000