BuyingTime Daily - January 28, 2026
LVMH shows watch resilience, Chanel bets on Kross, fake Rolex surge, standout new releases, sharp reviews, and a disciplined Vacheron auction to watch.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
January 28, 2026 lands with a market reality check and a reassuring reminder that watchmaking tends to bend before it breaks. LVMH reported a 5% sales decline for 2025 amid a tough global luxury backdrop, but Watches & Jewelry quietly did its job, posting flat performance with 3% organic growth. The takeaway isn’t drama—it’s resilience. Europe softened, the U.S. showed real demand, and the watch category once again proved it’s less fashion cycle and more long game.
Strategic patience also showed up elsewhere. Chanel made a meaningful move by taking a 30% stake in Kross Manufacture, signaling a deeper commitment to high-watchmaking capabilities beyond the familiar J12 universe. On the secondary side of the market, the data was less comforting: authentication platforms are seeing a surge in fake, modified, or outright Frankenstein Rolex watches, with rejection rates now pushing toward 40%. It’s a clear sign that the market is maturing, buyers are getting smarter, and verification matters more than hype ever did.
Editorially, today’s issue leaned heavily into craft and context. Painted dials were framed as true horological art rather than decorative afterthoughts, while a thoughtful interview with Longines CEO Patrick Aoun reinforced the brand’s focus on clarity, sport, and accessible elegance. There was nostalgia and relevance in equal measure, from a retrospective on the Bulova CURV and its newly updated chronograph to a reminder that the Omega Speedmaster remains quite literally out of this world. Olympic history, British Watchmakers’ Day specials, strapmaking innovation at Jean Rousseau, the philosophy of HYT, and a profile of Michel Parmigiani all reinforced a central theme: depth still matters.
New watches and fresh drops rounded things out nicely. Hanhart delivered a smaller, sharper 39mm take on its 417 ES Moby Dick, Oak & Oscar showed off serious in-house dial chops with the Humboldt ExP-02, Rado went fully anatomical with a skeletonized Anatom, and MONOCHROME teased its next Montre de Souscription ahead of tomorrow’s launch. On the review front, the Bühlmann Decompression 02 reminded us what a true tool watch looks like, while the Jack Mason Strat-o-timer Titanium GMT balanced function, value, and personality.
There’s also plenty to watch and listen to, including videos on yet another round of retail price hikes, a sleeper Swedish dive watch, and a candid look at why Hublot remains such a lightning rod, plus a thoughtful Superlative Podcast episode on education and the industry’s long game. At auction, attention turns to a quietly compelling 2020 Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar in petrol blue, currently well below market and ending tonight—an example of how discipline, not adrenaline, still wins in today’s buyer’s market.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
LVMH Sales Down 5% in 2025, Good Resilience of Watches & Jewelry
In 2025, LVMH experienced a 5% decline in sales, totaling EUR 80.8 billion, attributed to a challenging global luxury goods market influenced by geopolitical uncertainties and economic factors. While the overall luxury industry faced difficulties, LVMH reported that its Watches & Jewelry division showed resilience, with a flat sales performance despite external pressures. Organic growth in this sector was reported at 3%, indicating some stability amid the downturn. The company observed varied performance across regions, with Europe facing declining demand, while the United States showed growth driven by strong local demand.
Chanel invests in Kross Manufacture
Chanel is diversifying its watchmaking portfolio by investing in Kross Manufacture, acquiring a 30% stake in the brand. This move comes as luxury conglomerates face challenges, and Chanel seeks to enhance its high-end watch offerings beyond its existing J12 line. Kross Manufacture, known for its unique designs inspired by pop culture, has capabilities in precision manufacturing that align with Chanel’s objectives to advance its watchmaking expertise. The investment allows Kross to develop its manufacturing capabilities while providing Chanel with access to specialized production resources.
One-third of Rolex watches are false, fake or Frankenstein
A significant concern in the luxury watch market is the increasing rate of counterfeit Rolex watches, with over one-third of submissions rejected during authentication checks at Bezel, a prominent pre-owned luxury watch platform. This figure has risen sharply from 23% in 2023 to 38% in the latter half of 2025, highlighting the growing issue of sellers submitting watches with undisclosed modifications, incorrect papers, and false descriptions. As consumer demand shifts, the luxury watch market is moving away from hype-driven trends towards a more discerning and quality-focused approach. Bezel’s analysis indicates that buyers are becoming increasingly selective, valuing expert verification and the condition of watches over mere brand recognition.
Feature Time
Face Value: Why Painting on Watch Dials is Art
Fine watches have long served as decorative objects, intertwining the realms of art and horology. The miniature painting genre, particularly in enamel, has become a crucial form of decoration for watches, though it faces the risk of becoming a lost art due to the scarcity of practitioners. The contemporary landscape of painted dials can be categorized into three main types: miniature recreations of famous artworks, original designs inspired by artistic traditions, and functional dials that integrate art with horological purpose. As the appreciation for painted dials grows, so does the recognition of individual artists, which not only enhances the value of their work but also ensures the survival of this intricate art form for future generations.
Interview: Patrick Aoun, Longines’ New CEO, on His Vision For The Brand’s Future
Patrick Aoun, the new CEO of Longines, shares his vision for the brand while reflecting on his 19-year journey with the company. He emphasizes the importance of tradition, performance, and a redefined elegance that adapts to modern lifestyles, believing that elegance can be sporty and dynamic rather than limited to formality. Aoun outlines a strategic vision grounded in clarity and consistency, aiming to maintain Longines’ leadership in its price segment with reliable Swiss timepieces. He highlights the significance of Longines’ long-standing commitment to sports and precision timekeeping, emphasizing that the brand’s legacy is about capturing moments and emotions that resonate with consumers.
Retrospective Look At The Bulova Curv And A Fast Take On The New Curv
The Bulova Curv watch celebrates its 10th anniversary with the introduction of the new CURV 41mm Chronograph, marking a decade since the brand first showcased the world’s first curved chronograph movement. Initially unveiled at BaselWorld, the CURV was revolutionary for its ergonomic design, featuring a high-frequency quartz movement that vibrates at 262kHz, enabling exceptional accuracy. The new model retains the distinctive curved architecture while expanding its case size to 41mm and incorporates practical enhancements such as an interchangeable strap system. Retailing at $1,450, the CURV 41mm Chronograph serves as a testament to Bulova’s innovative spirit from a decade ago.
Expert Advice For Novice Watch Enthusiasts
For novice watch enthusiasts, diving into the world of horology can be both exciting and overwhelming. It is essential to approach the hobby with a mindset rooted in curiosity and wonder, avoiding the pitfalls of negativity often found in online discussions. A key piece of advice is to explore various niches within watch collecting, allowing personal interests to guide the journey rather than feeling pressured to conform to external opinions. As novices begin to acquire their first timepieces, practical considerations should guide their choices, starting with widely available and easily serviced watches to prevent common pitfalls associated with vintage pieces.
The Greatest Horological Masterpieces of All Time: the Omega Speedmaster is Still Out of This World
The Omega Speedmaster has solidified its status as one of the greatest horological masterpieces, renowned for its precision, innovation, and craftsmanship. Initially developed in the 1960s for NASA, it underwent rigorous testing to ensure reliability during space missions and was the only watch to pass NASA’s extreme endurance tests. Notably, Buzz Aldrin wore his Speedmaster during the historic Apollo 11 moon landing in 1969, further cementing its cultural significance. Over the years, the Speedmaster has evolved while maintaining its connection to space exploration, remaining a symbol of human ingenuity and exploration that transcends time and technology.
Stay Golden: A History of Omega’s Winter Olympics Watches
Omega has a long-standing relationship with the Olympics, having served as the official timekeeper since 1932, with a notable history of releasing special Olympic edition watches. The upcoming Milano Cortina 2026 Winter Olympics will see the brand launch models like the Speedmaster 38mm and Seamaster 37mm, continuing a tradition that began with their first Olympic edition in 1956. Throughout its history, Omega has produced a variety of unique timepieces for the Winter Olympics, including the Seamaster Chrono-Quartz from 1976 and the limited-edition Seamaster Polaris from 1988. The watches not only serve as functional timekeeping devices but also as collectibles that honor Olympic moments.
Every British Watchmakers’ Day Special Edition 2026
British Watchmakers’ Day on March 7, 2026, will showcase a range of special edition watches, each with unique designs and themes that celebrate British craftsmanship. Notable releases include the Apiar Gen 1.1 Underground, featuring a vibrant dial inspired by London’s underground; the Beaucroft Rebel Red, characterized by its tungsten carbide case and gradient red dial; and the Brooklands Triple-Four ‘Redline’ Chronograph, designed for motorsport enthusiasts. The event will also present limited editions from various brands, such as the Fears Brunswick 40 ‘1846’, inspired by the company’s 180th anniversary. With a diverse array of styles and inspirations, British Watchmakers’ Day promises to be an exciting celebration of horological artistry and innovation.
What to Consider When Investing in Watches in 2026
Investing in watches in 2026 requires careful consideration of several factors amid uncertain economic conditions. The primary market for watches has changed dramatically, with many brands experiencing decreased value retention, making the practice of flipping watches less profitable. The decision to invest in multiple lower-priced watches versus a single high-end piece is influenced by market trends indicating that higher-priced watches are more stable investments. Overall, while the watch market presents challenges, it also offers avenues for passionate collectors willing to do their research and invest wisely.
Michel Parmigiani – the horological artist
Michel Parmigiani is celebrated as a master watchmaker and timepiece restorer, distinguished not only by his technical skills but also by his artistic sensibility. His work is deeply influenced by his roots in the Val-de-Travers region of Switzerland, where architectural elements inspire the design of his watches, such as the incorporation of Doric columns and the Golden Ratio. After establishing his own workshop in 1976, he gained prominence through his meticulous restoration of priceless timepieces and eventually founded Parmigiani Fleurier in 1996. The company is known for its commitment to craftsmanship and quality, with a focus on producing nearly all components in-house, a rarity in the watch industry.
Extreme Strapmaking: Spotlight on Manufacture Jean Rousseau
Manufacture Jean Rousseau is revolutionizing the watch strap industry by combining traditional craftsmanship with innovative materials and techniques. The company, based in Besançon, France, has transformed the relatively conservative market for watch straps into a vibrant field of experimentation, featuring unique offerings such as chocolate-scented alligator leather straps and water-resistant designs. They emphasize sustainability by using alternative materials like marine leathers, cork, and recycled fabrics, showcasing a commitment to both quality and environmental responsibility. The brand also thrives on collaborations, creating customized straps for luxury watches that incorporate exquisite details such as pearls and precious stones.
HYT, fluids and philosophy
HYT, a relatively recent entrant in the watchmaking industry since its establishment in 2012, has gained attention for its innovative approach to displaying time through fluid mechanics. The brand, which faced challenges leading to its temporary disappearance in 2021, has since re-emerged with a refined focus on enhancing wearability and reliability while maintaining its unique fluidic technology. The latest collections showcase a strategic pivot towards a more classic aesthetic, appealing to a broader clientele without abandoning the fluid element that defines its identity. As HYT looks to the future, it aims to blend ancestral watchmaking techniques with modern technologies, striving for a balance between heritage and radical innovation that resonates with collectors.
Editorial Time
Perspective: The Oyster Case Turns 100—Reading the Signals on What Rolex Will and Won’t Do for W&W
The Rolex Oyster will celebrate its 100th anniversary in 2026, a significant milestone that typically prompts brands to release special editions and marketing campaigns. However, Rolex’s recent price adjustments indicate a different approach, prioritizing calculated scarcity over traditional anniversary celebrations. The brand has a history of ignoring its own anniversaries, as seen with the GMT-Master and Datejust, and has instead focused on strategic pricing to manage demand and brand positioning. Looking ahead to Watches and Wonders 2026, it is anticipated that Rolex will introduce evolutionary updates rather than celebratory editions, maintaining its disciplined approach to product strategy.
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Opinion Time
Will Damiani save Baume & Mercier? Just ask Carl F. Bucherer
The recent acquisition of Baume & Mercier by the Damiani Group raises questions about the future viability of the brand, especially in a competitive market that has seen luxury watchmakers struggle. Despite Baume & Mercier’s rich history and significant distribution network, the brand faces challenges in desirability and market positioning, particularly at a price point that is squeezed between fashion watches and high-end collectibles. Optimistic scenarios envision a successful repositioning of Baume & Mercier as an Italian brand within Swiss watchmaking, potentially increasing its appeal through fashion and design. However, more realistic outcomes foresee a slowdown in growth, with the brand possibly entering a phase of conservative management or facing another sale or closure within five to seven years.
The Latest Time
Hanhart
Hanhart 417 ES Moby Dick 39mm
The Hanhart 417 ES Moby Dick 39mm is a new pilot chronograph that pays homage to the brand’s rich history with aviation timepieces. This model features a classic stainless steel case with a 39mm diameter, closely mirroring the original vintage design while offering a more compact and wearable size compared to the existing 42mm version. With a white dial that showcases period-correct typography and a bi-compax layout, it includes ivory-toned Arabic numerals and hands filled with Super-LumiNova, ensuring high legibility. The watch is powered by the Sellita SW510 M hand-wound movement and is priced at approximately $2,390 USD for the leather strap option and $2,600 USD for the bracelet version.
Monochrome
The MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription 5, Launching 29 January 2026
The MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription 5 is set to launch on January 29, 2026, at 3 PM Central European Time. This limited edition watch will be available in just 20 pieces for a period of 10 days, or until sold out, as part of a subscription campaign reminiscent of classic concepts popularized by Breguet. Designed to be a slim and compact chronograph, the Montre de Souscription 5 embodies sophisticated aesthetics with haute horlogerie finishes and is powered by a significant movement crafted by renowned independent watchmakers. A down payment will be required to reserve the watch, with the balance due upon shipment.
Oak & Oscar
Oak & Oscar Introduces the Humboldt ExP-02, Showing Off their In-House Dial Making Capabilities
Oak & Oscar has unveiled the Humboldt ExP-02, a limited edition watch that showcases their in-house dial-making capabilities. This model features a refined sandwich-style dial, crafted entirely in their workshop using precision machinery and advanced techniques, with a unique “ghost script” effect that changes visibility based on lighting. The Humboldt ExP-02 measures 39.5mm in diameter and is powered by a Sellita SW300 automatic movement, offering a 56-hour power reserve and water resistance up to 200 meters. With only 20 pieces available, this watch retails at $2,550 USD and represents Oak & Oscar’s commitment to craftsmanship and innovation in the microbrand watch industry.
Rado
Rado goes “fully anatomical” with the Anatom Skeleton
Rado has expanded its popular Anatom collection with the introduction of the Anatom Skeleton, featuring a skeleton dial for the first time. The watch boasts a PVD stainless steel case complemented by a matte plasma high-tech ceramic bezel and a matching rubber strap, powered by the automatic R808 movement with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. The design showcases a unique visual architecture, where the movement is an integral part of the design rather than hidden behind a dial, with a suspended white minute track above the movement and the signature cylindrical sapphire crystal. Priced at approximately $4,670 USD, the Anatom Skeleton is currently available from Rado’s e-boutique and retailers.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Bühlmann
The Bühlmann Decompression 02 Is A Tool’s Tool In A World Of Wannabes
The Bühlmann Decompression 02 is a robust dive watch designed for serious underwater enthusiasts, blending mechanical precision with a focus on dive planning and safety. With a substantial size of 48.5mm and a weight of 204 grams, it features a specialized design that emphasizes the ascent phase of diving, incorporating unique twin safety bezels and on-dial scales. Positioned as a tool rather than a traditional dive computer, the Decompression 02 serves as a tactile reference for divers, enabling them to monitor depth and ascent rates through its intuitive bezels and hands. Available for approximately $3,750 USD, a portion of each sale contributes to research on decompression algorithms.
Jack Mason
Jack Mason Strat-o-timer Titanium Diver GMT Watch Review: Lighter And Brighter, With More Things!
The Jack Mason Strat-o-timer Titanium Diver GMT Watch offers a lightweight and durable design, featuring a titanium case that is significantly lighter than its stainless steel counterpart while maintaining the same dimensions. This model includes a dive bezel with enhanced functionality, allowing for smooth, precise rotations with 120 clicks. Powered by a Japanese automatic Miyota 9075 movement, the watch boasts a reliable 42-hour power reserve and is regulated for accuracy. Priced at $1,399, it presents a solid option for those who appreciate a well-made timepiece that combines functionality with a unique aesthetic, though the busy dial layout may detract from its appeal for some.
Watching Time - Videos
Retail Prices Just Went Up... AGAIN
Retail prices have seen another increase, reflecting ongoing economic trends that impact consumers across various markets. The rise in prices is attributed to several factors, including inflation and supply chain disruptions that have persisted in recent years. As costs continue to climb, shoppers may find themselves adjusting their budgets and habits to accommodate these changes. The video explores the broader implications of these price hikes and how they affect purchasing decisions and consumer sentiment.
Sweden’s Best Kept Secret: Killer Dive Watch
Sweden’s best-kept secret is a remarkable dive watch that combines durability and style, making it an ideal choice for both professional divers and watch enthusiasts alike. The watch is engineered to withstand the rigorous demands of underwater adventures while maintaining an elegant aesthetic that appeals to various tastes. Its advanced features, including water resistance and precision mechanics, set it apart in the competitive dive watch market. Designed with high-quality materials, it promises longevity and reliability, embodying a unique charm that reflects Swedish craftsmanship.
Why Everyone Hates Hublot
Hublot, a luxury watch brand, has garnered a significant amount of criticism and disdain from various segments of the watch community and potential consumers. The brand’s pricing strategy, which is often seen as inflated, combined with its marketing approach that emphasizes exclusivity, has led to perceptions of pretentiousness. Many consider the designs to be overly flashy or lacking in the traditional craftsmanship that other luxury brands are known for, which contributes to the negative sentiment surrounding the brand. The association of Hublot with celebrity endorsements and high-profile collaborations can be polarizing, leaving many watch enthusiasts feeling alienated.
Talking Time - Podcasts
The SUPERLATIVE PODCAST: Inside The FHH — Pascal Ravessoud On Education, Culture, And The Watch Industry’s Long Game
In a recent episode of the Superlative Podcast, host Ariel Adams interviews Pascal Ravessoud, the Vice President of Fondation Haute Horlogerie, who emphasizes the importance of education and cultural understanding for the future of mechanical watchmaking. The discussion highlights the evolution of the FHH alongside the SIHH and its strategic shift towards fostering independent cultural education rather than focusing solely on commercial exhibitions. Ravessoud describes how the FHH Academy and its certification programs aim to enhance credible watchmaking knowledge among professionals and enthusiasts, stressing that passion for the craft should be taught in today’s digital age. The conversation further delves into the significance of debate, transparency, and long-term thinking within an industry characterized by tradition and rapid growth.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Tuesday’s auction watch, the 2022 Bovet 19Thirty Fleurier 42MM Blue Dial Leather Strap (NTS0015) - was bid to $8,100, well short of its market value of $17,000. - make an offer]
2020 Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix 40MM Blue Dial Leather Strap (4000E/000A-B548)
Auction Report: The “Quiet Complication” Play — 2020 Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar (Ref. 4000E/000A-B548) in Petrol Blue
This listing is for a 2020 Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar, reference 4000E/000A-B548, the 40mm stainless-steel model with the petrol-blue dial and matching blue alligator strap. The seller describes the watch as being in very good condition, and—crucially for value and buyer confidence—it’s offered as a full set with inner/outer boxes, additional items, and papers dated June 23, 2020. For a modern complicated Vacheron Constantin, that complete kit matters: it typically tightens the buyer pool’s skepticism and helps preserve resale optionality versus a watch-only example.
The Fiftysix line is Vacheron Constantin’s modern “heritage-adjacent” entry point, explicitly riffing on the brand’s 1956 reference 6073—less about cosplay, more about a fluent mid-century accent translated into a contemporary daily-wear case. The Complete Calendar variant is the sweet spot of the family: it looks like a restrained dress watch until you notice you’re getting a full calendar (day/date/month) plus a precision moonphase, presented in a way that reads calm rather than cluttered. Vacheron Constantin highlights the moonphase accuracy (correct to 122 years), and the open caseback shows the brand’s 22K gold rotor with Maltese-cross inspiration.
Mechanically, this reference is powered by Vacheron Constantin’s self-winding Caliber 2460 QCL/1, running at 28,800 vph with approximately 40 hours of power reserve, and finished to the standard that earns the Hallmark of Geneva on the movement. In plain English: this isn’t a “pretty dial, generic engine” proposition—it’s a legitimate high-watchmaking calendar module in a case you can actually wear without feeling like you borrowed it from a safe.
Now the part that decides whether this auction is fun or financially foolish: value. WatchCharts pegs this model’s retail price around $30,200 and a current market price around the mid–$15K range (their data is explicitly current into January 2026). Meanwhile, live asking prices on major secondary platforms commonly cluster from roughly the mid–$15Ks through the high–$18Ks, with higher asks into the low $20Ks for newer/unworn or “certified” dealer listings (and the occasional outlier that appears more aspirational than realistic). The practical takeaway is that your bid ceiling should be anchored to real liquidity, not retail nostalgia: for a 2020 full set in very good condition, a rational “I can live with this” range is often around the mid–$15Ks to high–$17Ks before taxes/fees/shipping; once you’re effectively paying into the high–$18Ks to ~$20K all-in, you’re bumping into the territory where buyers start asking why they didn’t just buy from a trusted dealer with an easier return path and clearer recourse.
The auction ends tonight at 7:00 pm (Wednesday, January 28, 2026).”
If you’re buying this to wear, the Fiftysix Complete Calendar in petrol blue is one of the more civilized ways into complicated Vacheron Constantin—useful complication stack, elegant dial, and the kind of movement finishing you don’t get “by accident.” If you’re buying this as a value play, be disciplined: the market has been telling us for years that this reference is more “buyer’s market” than “hot commodity,” which is precisely why it can be a smart acquisition—so long as you don’t bid like it’s an Overseas.
Auction ends Wednesday, January 28, 2026 at 7:00 pm.
Current bid: $12,200