BuyingTime Daily - January 27, 2026
Power-reserve upgrades, retail shakeups, bold new materials, indie ambition, and thoughtful reviews—from future tech to vintage soul—today’s watch universe in one sweep.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
January 26th felt like one of those days where the industry quietly signals where it’s headed without making a lot of noise. On the technical side, Sellita made a meaningful statement with the launch of its upgraded SW200-2, stretching power reserve to a very modern 65 hours while keeping the familiar 4Hz cadence. It’s a reminder that the so-called “workhorse” movement space is no longer just about cloning old architectures, but about incremental engineering that matters to brands and buyers alike. At the retail level, Watches of Switzerland surprised some observers by adding Timex to its U.S. assortment, a clear nod toward volume, accessibility, and the reality that entry-price watches still play a vital role in how new collectors enter the hobby.
There was also plenty of thoughtful long-form reading today. A deep dive into future watch materials underscored how brands like Richard Mille have helped normalize advanced composites and exotic alloys, nudging the market toward a blend of tradition and engineered experimentation. Jean Todt’s Talking Watches feature bridged motorsport, philanthropy, and serious collecting, while a closer look at a 1966 Omega Seamaster 300 reminded us why vintage still thrives on storytelling and nuance. Meanwhile, speculation around the Nautilus at 50 suggested Patek Philippe is unlikely to chase nostalgia in steel, instead leaning harder into precious metals, scarcity, and brand discipline. Even the less glamorous but very real topic of inheritance tax got attention, with practical advice on how major collections might be preserved rather than liquidated.
New watches landed across a wide spectrum. Louis Erard delivered an art-driven provocation with its Monica Bonvicini collaboration, while Ochs und Junior marked 20 years of radical simplicity with a playful, PVD-coated Settimana. Independent ambition was on full display with Qian GuoBiao and his five-piece split-seconds chronograph, and at the more accessible end Tissot refreshed the PR516 with new colors that keep its retro-racing appeal intact.
Reviews leaned heavily into character and value. From the Scottish-themed Wallace Allan collaboration with Nivada Grenchen, to the under-$50 military-inspired field watch from Rdunae, there was no shortage of personality. Design-forward collectors got their fix with Toledano & Chan, while traditional chronograph fans were served by Vulcain and its heritage monopusher. Rounding things out, Yema continued its push upmarket with a slim bronze diver powered by an in-house micro-rotor movement.
On the video front, there was plenty to queue up, from slim-wrist watch recommendations and boots-on-the-ground buying at the Miami show, to a deeper Jean Todt conversation and a candid look at both the hits and misses of recent releases. Market retrospectives on 2025 and thoughtful takes on failed watches added some useful perspective beyond the hype cycle.
At auction, the spotlight remains on the quietly stubborn gap between ambition and reality. Monday’s IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Tourbillon stalled well below its reserve, while today’s featured piece, the 2022 Bovet 19Thirty Fleurier in blue, sits at a modest $7,000 with hours to go. It’s a fitting snapshot of the current market: lots of beauty, lots of quality, and buyers who are increasingly disciplined about what they’re willing to pay.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
Sellita Introduces the SW200-2 with 65 Hour Power Reserve
Sellita has launched the SW200-2, a revamped mechanical movement that delivers a 65-hour power reserve in response to demand for longer-lasting calibers. Building on the familiar ETA 2824 architecture, Sellita has upgraded key components including the escapement, gear train, and barrel to boost performance. Despite these changes, the movement retains a 28,800 bph frequency for stable and accurate timekeeping. This evolution signals Sellita’s move from simple clones to more innovative, competitive alternatives in the workhorse movement space.
Watches of Switzerland shifts into volume market with Timex
Watches of Switzerland has added Timex to its U.S. lineup, marking a notable pivot toward higher-volume, lower-priced watches. The move introduces an accessible American heritage brand into a portfolio that previously started around Citizen and Tissot price points. Timex’s long history—from 19th-century brass clocks to mass-market quartz watches—positions it as a value option with broad recognition. The rollout highlights classic, reliable designs like the Waterbury Heritage Chronograph and Q Timex 1975 Enigma Reissue, which are currently sold online only at prices between $129 and $349.
Feature Time
The watch materials of the future
The luxury watch market is increasingly split between traditional craftsmanship and cutting-edge material innovation, with brands like Richard Mille pushing into advanced composites once considered unconventional. Materials such as titanium, carbon fiber, and proprietary plastics reduce weight, increase durability, and create striking new aesthetics that appeal to younger, design-conscious buyers. As these engineered materials become more common, enthusiasts are learning to appreciate the technical and visual nuances they bring to a watch. This shift suggests that the future of watchmaking will blend respect for tradition with bold experimentation in materials and design.
Time Machines: The Thrill Of ‘What If’ Watch Collecting With The 1966 Omega Seamaster 300 Ref. 165.024
The 1966 Omega Seamaster 300 Ref. 165.024 shows how a vintage diver can feel both historically rooted and surprisingly contemporary. Its matte dial, lyre lugs, and warm tritium lume give it a character that resonates with modern collectors, while its British Royal Navy connection adds military credibility. Transitional details, like a mix of early and later production traits and an acrylic resin bezel, make this particular example especially compelling. Even with a non-original seconds hand, the watch’s presence—especially on a Milanese mesh bracelet—invites the kind of “what if” storytelling that defines thoughtful vintage collecting.
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The Nautilus 50th Anniversary—Reading the Signals on What Patek Philippe Will and Won’t Do Next
With the Patek Philippe Nautilus turning 50, the brand’s past moves hint at how it might handle the anniversary. The discontinuation of the 5711/1A and comments from Thierry Stern suggest a continued shift away from steel toward precious metals, using scarcity to heighten desirability. For the celebration, it is more plausible that Patek will focus on limited gold or platinum references, possibly with added complications, rather than reviving a simple steel model. The likely emphasis will be on exclusivity and high value, ensuring the Nautilus remains an aspirational flagship rather than a broadly accessible icon.
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How Watch Collectors Can Protect Collections From Inheritance Tax
In the UK, serious watch collectors can face inheritance tax rates up to 40% on estates above the nil-rate band, which may force families to sell important pieces to cover the bill. As collections become more thematic and historically meaningful, losing them to tax-driven liquidation risks erasing carefully curated stories. One avenue is Conditional Exemption, which can defer IHT on collections deemed of historical or cultural importance, provided conditions like preservation and some form of public access are met. Another is the Acceptance in Lieu scheme, which lets collectors settle tax by transferring key watches to public institutions, preserving both their value and their place in horological history.
The Latest Time
Louis Erard
The New Louis Erard x Monica Bonvicini NOT FOR YOU
This 39mm Louis Erard x Monica Bonvicini collaboration turns the artist’s provocative “NOT FOR YOU” installation into a wearable statement piece. A polished steel case, black Clous de Paris guilloché dial, and mirror-polished text highlight its conceptual roots and critique of elitism in art and luxury. Inside is the automatic Sellita SW 261-1 with a 38-hour power reserve, paired to a black Baranil calfskin strap for a clean, contemporary look. Priced at CHF 3,900 (about $5,000 USD), it functions as both a daily-wear watch and a conversation-starting art object.
Ochs und Junior
The Ochs und Junior Settimana PVD, For the Model’s 20th Anniversary
The Ochs und Junior Settimana PVD celebrates 20 years of Ludwig Oechslin’s minimalist weekday complication, which uses seven apertures and a rotating dot instead of traditional day text. The new 36mm titanium models for 2026 introduce PVD-coated brown and black dials, each accented with bold color contrasts (pink hands on black, gold accents on brown) that keep the design playful yet restrained. A simple, two-part grade 5 titanium case houses an automatic movement with a weekday module built from just four extra components, embodying Oechslin’s “radical simplicity” philosophy. Priced at CHF 2,486 including Swiss VAT—roughly $3,200 USD—they are made to order with about an eight-week delivery window.
Qian GuoBiao
Chinese Indie Watchmaker Qian GuoBiao Launches a Split-Seconds Chronograph
Independent Chinese watchmaker Qian GuoBiao’s Split-Seconds Chronograph is a five-piece limited edition that showcases serious mechanical ambition. The 40mm steel case, rated to 50 meters, frames a deep purple dial with pale yellow accents and an open view of the split-seconds clutch, emphasizing the watch’s technical core. Inside, the modified automatic calibre AB-04, derived from the ETA 7750, runs at 28,800 vph with a 42-hour power reserve, and each piece is hand-assembled and tested. The watch is priced at CHF 29,000 before tax—about $37,300 USD—with delivery estimated at around 12 months from order.
Tissot
Tissot Adds Two Fresh New Colours to its PR516 38mm Powermatic 80
Tissot’s latest PR516 38mm Powermatic 80 variants lean into the brand’s mid-century racing heritage with new matte white and gradient aqua blue dials. Both sit in the same compact 38mm steel case on a Jubilee-style bracelet, offering 100 meters of water resistance and a sporty fixed black bezel. The Powermatic 80 movement provides an 80-hour power reserve, visible through the display back, making the watch a strong everyday option that still nods to vintage pit-lane style. Officially priced at EUR 745, CHF 685, or USD 825—approximately $885, $880, and $825 USD respectively—the PR516 continues Tissot’s formula of approachable pricing with serious spec.
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Wearing Time - Reviews
Nivada Grenchen
Wallace Allan x Nivada Grenchen Chronoking Mecaquartz ‘Ayr’ 38mm Limited Edition Watch Review
The Wallace Allan x Nivada Grenchen Chronoking Mecaquartz ‘Ayr’ is a Scottish-themed limited edition that pays tribute to Robert Burns and the town of Ayr. Its black dial with blue chronograph hands and markers subtly references the Saltire, while five interchangeable bezels let the wearer tune the color balance and personality. A 38mm stainless steel case, tachymeter, and a GMT scale that swaps “London” for “Ayr” reinforce the special-edition concept. Powered by the Seiko VK63 mecaquartz, it mixes quartz accuracy with mechanical chronograph feel, is water resistant to 100 meters, and limited to just 50 pieces at £820, including a rubber strap and all five bezels.
Rdunae
Rdunae Field Watch RA02 Review: Military Watch DNA For Under $50
The Rdunae Field Watch RA02 is an ultra-budget homage to classic military references, especially the hard-to-find 6BB Navigator. Its compact 35mm case, matte black dial, and clear Arabic numerals deliver the right field-watch proportions and legibility, while the lumed triangle at 12 and railroad minute track keep the look faithful to its inspirations. With minimal branding and a lightweight build, it feels purpose-driven rather than fashion-oriented. A simple Miyota 2035 quartz movement and nylon strap keep costs low, making it a fun, conversation-starting way to enjoy military design without the risks or prices of true vintage.
Toledano & Chan
Hands-On With The Striking Titanium Toledano & Chan B/1.3r
The Toledano & Chan B/1.3r combines a lightweight titanium case with a dramatic 18K gold ripple dial, creating a piece that feels both sculptural and wearable. Its architectural inspiration shows up in the destro layout and asymmetrical bracelet, which add visual tension while remaining comfortable on the wrist. Compared with earlier models, the B/1.3r is smaller and lighter, giving it an easy-wearing character that matches its refined finishing. Powered by the Sellita SW100 with a 42-hour power reserve and beating at 28,800 vph, this limited edition of 300 pieces at around $10,200 USD is aimed squarely at collectors who prize design-led independents.
Vulcain
Hands-On With The New Vulcain Monopusher Heritage Panda
The Vulcain Monopusher Heritage Panda revisits the brand’s historical ties to Real Madrid and its mid-century chronographs in a compact 38.9mm package. Its “Real Madrid White” dial with black sub-dials and vintage-style case finishing clearly echo the 1950s Presidents’ Chronograph Heritage. Inside, a hand-wound Sellita SW510 offers a 58-hour power reserve, underscoring the watch’s traditional, enthusiast-friendly character. Priced at CHF 2,770 / US$3,360, it stands out as a relatively accessible mechanical monopusher that should appeal to both watch fans and football history buffs.
Yema
Yema Skin Diver Slim Bronze CMM.20
The Yema Skin Diver Slim Bronze CMM.20 reinterprets the brand’s 1960s skin divers with a 39mm bronze case that is just 10mm thick, balancing vintage charm and contemporary wearability. Rated to 300 meters with a sapphire bezel and clean, legible dial options in green or a limited faded grey, it is built as a real dive tool that will develop a unique patina over time. Inside, the in-house CMM.20 micro-rotor movement offers a 70-hour power reserve and aims at chronometer-level accuracy. Priced at €2,249, the grey version is capped at 200 pieces while the green becomes part of the core line, underscoring Yema’s push into higher-spec, in-house-driven offerings.
Comparing Time
7 Best Seiko Watches That Are Discontinued But Still Worth Finding
This piece highlights seven discontinued Seiko models that remain highly desirable for their quality, design, and character. From the understated Seiko 5 SNK793 to the iconic SKX007 diver, each watch is discussed in terms of how it wears, functions, and fits into a modern collection. Models like the SARB033 and SARB035 are praised for balancing refined aesthetics with everyday practicality, making them strong value-driven choices even on the secondary market. The article emphasizes that, despite being discontinued, these watches continue to offer honest craftsmanship and enduring appeal to enthusiasts.
Our Top 5 Oris Watches To Own In 2026
This comparison walks through five notable Oris models that stand out for 2026, underscoring the brand’s focus on practical, well-designed mechanical watches. The Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye” is positioned as a distinctive everyday piece, while the Aquis Date New York Harbor Limited Edition II is praised for pairing dive capability with an environmental mission. The ProPilot Date and Big Crown Calibre 473 showcase Oris’s strength in clear, robust pilot’s watches and in-house movements, and the Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy” brings a playful, colorful twist to a serious diver platform. Together, these watches illustrate the breadth of Oris’s lineup and invite readers to explore the brand further, including at an upcoming Brooklyn event.
Watching Time - Videos
PERFECT NEW Watches for Slim Wrists
This video showcases a curated selection of watches specifically suited for people with slim wrists. It focuses on how case size, lug-to-lug length, and strap design affect overall comfort and proportion on a smaller wrist. Viewers get practical suggestions that balance style and fit, rather than just chasing popular models. It is aimed at helping you find pieces that look intentional and refined rather than oversized or awkward.
BUYING & SELLING at the Miami Jewelry and Watch Show!
Filmed at the Miami Jewelry and Watch Show on January 27, 2026, this video drops you into the bustle of dealers, collectors, and enthusiasts trading jewelry and timepieces. You see real interactions around buying, selling, and negotiating, along with close-ups of notable pieces. The show is presented as both a marketplace and a social hub where you can spot rare watches and connect with like-minded collectors. It’s useful both as event coverage and as a look at how deals actually happen on the floor.
Talking Watches With Jean Todt: The Icon Of Motorsport
This video is an in-depth conversation with Jean Todt, exploring how watches have intertwined with a life spent at the top of motorsport. Todt discusses specific pieces that have accompanied him through Formula 1, rallying, and his leadership roles, framing them as both tools and talismans. The discussion weaves together stories from the paddock with the technical and emotional appeal of the watches he chooses. It gives viewers a sense of how horology fits into the culture and pace of racing at the highest level.
This Is One of the Craziest Watches I’ve Ever Seen!
Here the host dives into an especially wild and unconventional watch whose design throws out most traditional rules. The video breaks down the bold aesthetics, unusual layout, and any novel complications or displays that make it stand out. Rather than just a quick wrist shot, it looks closely at the components and how they interact to create such an offbeat presence. It’s aimed at viewers who enjoy watches as kinetic art as much as instruments.
New Watch Releases the Good and the BAD
This video surveys a wave of new watch releases and separates the hits from the misses. On the positive side, it highlights models that genuinely move design or technology forward, or offer strong value. On the negative side, it calls out pieces that feel lazy, overpriced, or troubled by obvious quality or spec issues. The goal is to give viewers an honest, balanced overview before they get swept up in launch hype.
2025 Watch Market: Winners, Losers, and One Big Surprise!
Looking back at 2025, this video analyzes which brands and segments gained ground and which lost momentum. It digs into why certain players resonated with buyers—whether through pricing, design, marketing, or innovation—while others struggled. A surprising brand or category emerges as an unexpected winner, challenging assumptions about what succeeds in today’s market. The overall picture is of a shifting landscape that sets the stage for what collectors might expect next.
These Watches Failed - But Should You Buy Them? - YouTube - The 1916 Company
This video profiles watches that flopped commercially and unpacks the reasons behind their failure, from design missteps to pricing and poor timing. Rather than writing them off, it asks whether those same flaws might now translate into value on the secondary market. Viewers are encouraged to think critically about whether an unpopular watch could still be a worthwhile, discounted addition to a collection. It’s both a postmortem on missed launches and a guide to spotting underappreciated opportunities.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Monday’s auction watch, the IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Tourbillon L.E. 44MM Black Dial Leather Strap (IW504210) - was bid to $13,000 but did not meet its reserve of $25,550. - make an offer]
2022 Bovet 19Thirty Fleurier 42MM Blue Dial Leather Strap (NTS0015)
Auction Report: The Pocket-Watch Throwback That’s Actually Serious: 2022 BOVET 19Thirty Fleurier (NTS0015) in Blue
The listing up for auction is a 2022 BOVET 19Thirty Fleurier, reference NTS0015, in a 42mm stainless-steel case with a blue dial and leather strap, described by the seller as being in good condition and accompanied by inner/outer boxes plus papers dated May 28, 2022. The 19Thirty line is BOVET’s modern love letter to 19th-century pocket watches, most obviously in the signature crown-and-bow at 12 o’clock and the “Fleurier” case architecture that gives the watch its distinctive profile and wrist presence.
Under the hood, the 19Thirty concept is more than styling. BOVET positions the collection around a high-watchmaking, manual-winding movement with a long (7-day) power reserve and a simple-but-useful functional set—hours, minutes, seconds, and power reserve indication—because the point here is visual drama and finishing rather than complication stacking. On BOVET’s own technical descriptions of the 19Thirty architecture, you’ll see the brand emphasize the 7-day reserve and the manual caliber platform (notably referenced as caliber 15BM04 on anniversary materials), along with the traditional beat rate and component count that put it firmly in “serious independent” territory rather than “cute heritage cosplay.”
On this specific configuration, the blue dial/steel case pairing is the more wearable, less precious-metal, “daily-able” version of the idea. Third-party listings for NTS0015 align on the basics—42mm steel, blue dial, manual wind, leather strap—so at least the bones of the listing match what the reference is supposed to be. That said, with independents like BOVET, condition and completeness can matter disproportionately at resale: sharp case geometry, clean crystal and dial, a healthy winding feel across the power reserve, and documented service history (if any) often move the needle more than they would on a mass luxury piece.
Now the money question: value. Retail pricing for 19Thirty variants appears in a wide band depending on execution and retailer; one widely read hands-on writeup pegged a 19Thirty Fleurier variant at about $21,500, while current boutique/retailer listings for “blue dial 42mm” presentations are often shown around the low-$30k range. On the secondary market, asking prices visible through aggregators can float into the low-$30k area for NTS0015 listings, but asking is not the same as transacting—especially in a thinner market where one or two optimistic listings can distort the “going rate.” With that in mind, the rational way to handicap this auction is to treat “fair” as a discount to whichever retail anchor you believe is most representative for this exact spec, then adjust for (a) confirmed condition, (b) completeness (you do have boxes and dated papers), and (c) liquidity risk—because you’re not buying a watch with infinite buyer depth if you ever need to exit.
As for auction tactics, remember the calendar: you noted the auction ends at 8:56 PM on Tuesday, January 27, 2026. With no stated reserve here, I’d decide in advance what you think is an acceptable “all-in” number and refuse to chase the romance of the bow-at-12. A conservative posture for a steel, manual-wind independent with niche liquidity is to want meaningful separation from current retail listings, even with full set—especially if you cannot verify recent service. If the bidding lands in “lightly used, rational discount” territory, this is the kind of watch that can feel like stealing artistry. If it runs up toward optimistic retail-adjacent numbers, you’re effectively paying for someone else’s taste and your future illiquidity at the same time.
Bottom line: the 19Thirty Fleurier is exactly what you want BOVET to be—idiosyncratic, technically legitimate, and visually unmistakable. But your edge as a buyer is discipline: verify what you can, price in service reality, and bid like you’re the one who may have to sell it later—because with a watch like this, you very well might be.
Current bid: $7,000