BuyingTime Daily - January 26, 2026
AP’s bold new manufacture, a steadier secondary market, fresh releases across price points, and a tourbillon auction reality check—today’s watch world, in focus.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
The January 26, 2026 edition of Buying Time spans the full spectrum of modern watchmaking, from industrial-scale investment to deeply personal collecting decisions, with a market backdrop that finally feels a bit more stable than it has in recent memory. The headline story belongs to Audemars Piguet, which marked its 150th anniversary by opening the Manufacture du Brassus, a sweeping new facility that consolidates production in the Vallée de Joux and signals long-term confidence in high-end mechanical watchmaking. At the same time, the January WatchCharts data offered a cautiously encouraging snapshot of the secondary market, with modest overall gains led by Patek Philippe, Rolex, and a particularly strong showing from Tudor, even as retail price increases and tariffs continue to weigh on value retention.
On the brand front, Patek Philippe reinforced its commitment to after-sales excellence with the reopening of its expanded Singapore Service Centre, while Watches of Switzerland Group made waves on the retail side by acquiring Texas-based Deutsch & Deutsch, adding scale, Rolex doors, and momentum to its U.S. footprint. Motorsport and watchmaking intersected once again as Rolex unveiled a special Cosmograph Daytona that will be awarded to the winner of the 24 Hours of Daytona, a restrained trophy watch that leans on heritage rather than overt exclusivity. Features today range from a cinematic look at watches made iconic by film to more philosophical explorations of why analog watches still resonate in an increasingly digital world, alongside a standout piece on a one-off Bugatti fitted with an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon dashboard clock.
LVMH Watch Week continued to echo through the coverage, not just via new watches but through the idea of watches as sculptural “horological objects,” with Louis Vuitton, L’Epée, and others pushing timekeeping into collectible art territory. Independent and accessible watchmaking also had its moment, from DUG’s sub-$2,000 Glashütte offerings to thoughtful commentary on TAG Heuer’s evolving Carrera strategy. Editorial and opinion pieces reflected on Richemont’s sale of Baume & Mercier, the personal logic behind a bright yellow Doxa dive watch, and why emotional connection, not specifications, ultimately determines what stays in a collection.
New watch coverage was particularly dense, with fresh releases from Citizen, Fears, Mermont, Ochs und Junior, Praesidus, Toledano & Chan, Urwerk, and more, while hands-on reviews examined value-driven and design-forward pieces from Citizen, Edox, Laurent Ferrier, and Nivada Grenchen. Comparisons, weekend roundups, and market context pieces helped frame where both heritage brands and independents are heading as 2026 takes shape. The video lineup complemented the written coverage with looks at value watches, collecting regrets, vintage insights, and the ongoing debate over whether modern perfection has dulled the soul of icons like the Rolex Submariner.
Rounding out the issue, the auction spotlight focused on IWC Schaffhausen’s Portugieser Tourbillon, a technically serious complication now trading at a fraction of its original retail ambition, underscoring how selective and sober today’s high-end market has become. Taken together, the day’s stories suggest an industry recalibrating rather than retreating—more disciplined, more reflective, and perhaps quietly optimistic beneath the surface.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
Audemars Piguet Opens New Le Brassus Manufacture
Audemars Piguet has inaugurated the Manufacture du Brassus, a 23,700-square-meter production facility known as the Arc, as part of its 150th anniversary celebrations. The new building consolidates previously scattered production teams in the Vallée de Joux and can accommodate up to 700 employees in open, light-filled workspaces, quiet zones, and traditional offices. Sustainability was a core priority, with Minergie-ECO® certification, renewable energy systems, and heat recovery and photovoltaic technologies built into the design. A robot-operated storage system delivers components directly to workshops, improving efficiency and allowing artisans to focus more fully on high-end watchmaking.
January 2026 Watch Market Update
The January 2026 WatchCharts update reports that the Overall Market Index rose 1.1% in December 2025, signaling continued stabilization in the secondary watch market. Brands like Patek Philippe, Rolex, and especially Tudor led the gains, with Tudor up 3.2% for the month and Patek Philippe appreciating 12.3% over the full year. At the same time, retail prices climbed again at the start of 2026, driven by higher production costs and U.S. tariffs, with Tudor and Rolex implementing some of the steepest increases. These hikes have pulled value-retention metrics down from their previous highs, illustrating a market where strong demand coexists with pressure from external economic forces and pricing strategies.
Patek Philippe Service Centre strengthens regional presence
Patek Philippe has reopened its Singapore Service Centre at Wheelock Place, reinforcing its long-term commitment to clients in Singapore and the wider region. The newly renovated 828-square-meter facility offers an elegant, comfortable environment that includes lounges for timepiece viewings, presentations, and private consultations. Inside, a 33-member Customer Service team, including 16 skilled watchmakers, focuses on maintenance and restoration work that preserves each watch’s story and heritage. The centre has already been recognized as one of Patek Philippe’s best-performing service locations worldwide, underlining the brand’s emphasis on quality and after-sales care.
Watches of Switzerland swoops on four-store family jeweler
Watches of Switzerland Group has acquired Deutsch & Deutsch, a four-store family jeweler in Texas, prompting a 6% rise in its share price. The deal expands the group’s Texas footprint to five stores and adds $67 million in 2024 sales, while keeping the Deutsch & Deutsch name and leadership team in place. The acquisition brings three additional Rolex doors into the network, taking the group’s total number of Rolex doors in the US to 25. Deutsch & Deutsch also carries key bridal and fine jewelry brands, and several of its locations have recently been refurbished, with more upgrades planned.
Rolex Reveals Daytona for Winner of 24 Hours of Daytona
Rolex has introduced a special Cosmograph Daytona ref. 126503 that will be awarded to the winner of the 24 Hours of Daytona on January 24, 2026. Unlike the highly distinctive Le Mans edition, this trophy watch is a standard two-tone model differentiated by a unique caseback engraving. The piece celebrates nearly a century of links between Rolex and Daytona Beach, dating back to Sir Malcolm Campbell’s land speed records with a Rolex Oyster in 1933. It also underscores the brand’s deep involvement in motorsport since 1963 and its role as title sponsor of the endurance race since 1992.
Feature Time
The ABCs of Time: Some of the Most Iconic Watches to Appear in Movies
Watches in film often work quietly in the background, but a few models have achieved true icon status thanks to their cinematic roles. Bulgari’s Serpenti became famous after appearing on Elizabeth Taylor during the filming of Cleopatra, while the TAG Heuer Monaco is forever tied to Steve McQueen in Le Mans. The Hamilton Ventura found renewed relevance as the watch of choice in Blue Hawaii and later Men in Black. The Rolex Submariner, worn by Sean Connery as James Bond, shows how a practical dive watch can evolve into a powerful luxury and cultural symbol through the lens of cinema.
Why Do You Wear An Analog Watch In A Digital World — The Psychology Behind It
In a world dominated by screens and instant notifications, an analog watch can act as a grounding object that restores a more tangible sense of time. Rather than presenting time as a constantly refreshing number, it visualizes the passage of hours and minutes in a way that invites reflection. The piece argues that mechanical and analog watches resist the disposability of most modern tech, often becoming long-term companions rather than short-lived gadgets. Wearing one becomes both an expression of personal style and a quiet assertion of values like continuity, memory, and mindfulness.
This is the one-off Bugatti worthy of having a Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon dash clock
The Bugatti F.K.P. Hommage is a one-off commission that pays tribute to the original Veyron and to Ferdinand Karl Piëch, the visionary who pushed that project forward. Built on the Mistral’s chassis with 1,600 horsepower, it dramatically surpasses the Veyron’s performance while refining the classic design language, especially at the front end. Its centerpiece is an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon dashboard clock with a vivid gradient red dial, powered by the car itself. This creation exemplifies modern coach building, merging extreme automotive engineering with haute horlogerie in a way that reflects the tastes of Bugatti’s most exclusive clientele.
LVMH Watch Week: The Rise of Horological Objects
LVMH Watch Week highlights how watches and clocks are increasingly treated as sculptural “horological objects” rather than just tools for telling time. Louis Vuitton’s Camionnette draws on the brand’s historic delivery trucks, translating their forms and colors into a whimsical, collectible timepiece. L’Epée’s La Regatta Métiers d’Art clocks push enameling and decorative techniques, using references like Hokusai’s waves and minimalist compositions to create one-of-a-kind artworks. A special Louis Vuitton time object for UNICEF, inspired by the Monogram LV Soccer Ball, underscores how these creations can also act as philanthropic showpieces, with auction proceeds supporting the charity’s work.
Just A Minute With DUG
DUG’s Purist Type 1 and Type 2 models deliver the coveted “Made in Glashütte” designation at a surprisingly accessible price point under $2,000. Meeting the requirement that more than half of the watch’s value is produced in Glashütte, they offer an authentic slice of German watchmaking typically reserved for far more expensive brands. The designs are restrained and functional, with simple dials and either line markers or Arabic numerals, powered by DUG’s caliber 400 movement noted for its reliability and ease of service. By focusing on honest construction and fair pricing rather than luxury theatrics, DUG appeals to collectors who want real horological substance without the usual Glashütte premium.
Reflecting On the sale of Baume & Mercier By Richemont To Damiani.
Richemont’s decision to sell Baume & Mercier to the Damiani Group marks a strategic realignment in the luxury watch and jewelry landscape. The private deal, expected to close in summer 2026, will see Baume & Mercier join Damiani’s portfolio of heritage-driven brands, with Richemont continuing to provide some operational support during the transition. The article traces Baume & Mercier’s evolution from a maker of elegant, attainable Swiss watches to a lifestyle-focused brand that has been relatively quiet in recent years. Under Damiani, there is hope that the company will refocus on its historical strengths and regain momentum within a group that has a vested interest in nurturing its long-term potential.
TAG Heuer Heritage Director Nicholas Biebuyck on the New Carreras, Formula One, and the Future of the Brand
TAG Heuer Heritage Director Nicholas Biebuyck explains how the brand’s latest Carrera releases aim to balance cutting-edge design with a deep respect for its racing heritage. The new models shown at LVMH Watch Week reference iconic shapes and details while incorporating modern materials and technical updates that keep the line relevant. Biebuyck underscores the importance of storytelling, especially as TAG Heuer taps into the growing U.S. Formula 1 audience and leverages social media to share its history and innovations with younger enthusiasts. Looking ahead to key launches at Watches & Wonders, he suggests the brand is positioning itself closer to the prestige sphere of high-end watchmaking while still maintaining breadth and accessibility in its catalog.
Editorial Time
Richemont Sells Baume & Mercier to Italy’s Damiani Group
Richemont’s sale of Baume & Mercier to the Damiani Group underscores how difficult it has become for heritage brands to thrive in today’s polarized luxury market. Despite nearly two centuries of history, Baume & Mercier’s entry-level positioning and multi-brand distribution no longer fit Richemont’s broader strategy, prompting the divestment at a moment of solid sales. Under Damiani, a family-run Italian luxury group with strong retail and jewelry networks, the brand may find a more natural home and clearer strategic focus. Still, the deal highlights the challenges facing “middle-ground” brands, which must sharpen their identity and execution if heritage is to translate into long-term success.
Going Yellow: Why I Bought A Doxa Sub 300T Divingstar
The decision to buy the Doxa Sub 300T Divingstar comes after years of experience with the brand and a careful comparison of past models, favoring authenticity and real-world usefulness over hype. Its bright yellow dial, originally conceived for underwater legibility, perfectly suits the needs of a diver and reinforces the watch’s tool-first identity. Worn and tested in the waters around Sydney, the watch proves its worth through excellent readability and robust construction, especially after swapping the factory bracelet for a more practical NATO strap. In the end, the Sub 300T Divingstar represents the culmination of a personal journey with Doxa, combining history, utility, and instinct into a go-to everyday dive watch.
Opinion Time
A personal connection is what keeps watches in your collection
This piece argues that what truly keeps a watch in a collection is the emotional and personal connection behind it, not just its specs or brand name. Watches acquired to mark life events or through direct relationships with makers often hold deeper meaning and longer-lasting appeal. The author draws parallels to music, noting that both fields reward attention to craft, story, and context. By engaging with communities, independent brands, and watch events, collectors can build relationships that turn watches into cherished, story-rich companions rather than interchangeable objects.
Would You Spend Over $3,000 on an Orient Star Moon Phase? I Would.
Here, the writer makes a case for the Orient Star M45 F8 Moon Phase as a compelling choice even at a price north of $3,000. The watch pairs a hand-wound in-house movement with a classically elegant design, including Roman numerals, blue leaf hands, a moon phase at six, and a power-reserve indicator at twelve. Offered in both a standard silvery white dial and a limited textured gradient dial inspired by the Pleiades, it competes directly with similarly priced Swiss dress watches. The conclusion is that while the cost demands careful consideration, the distinctive aesthetics, mechanics, and overall execution make it a worthy purchase for enthusiasts who value substance over status.
Event Time
Grand Seiko TOKYO TIME Pop Up in Singapore
Grand Seiko’s TOKYO TIME pop-up in Singapore is an immersive event that explores the dualities of Tokyo, from tradition to cutting-edge modernity. Through curated storytelling and photography by Gregory Harris, visitors experience the city’s shifting light, shadow, and energy that mirror Grand Seiko’s own philosophy of time. The space at Marina Bay Sands showcases eight Grand Seiko timepieces, each tied to a different Tokyo district and its particular relationship with time. Open daily until January 29, 2026, it invites walk-in guests to explore without prior registration.
Karishma Karer and Punit Mehta, Co-Founders of India Watch Weekend
India Watch Weekend’s second edition in Mumbai positions the event as a fast-growing hub for enthusiasts discovering watches, brands, and each other. Co-founders Karishma Karer and Punit Mehta intentionally focus on community, conversation, and education rather than pure sales, giving both international maisons and Indian makers a shared stage. Many visitors are attending a watch show for the first time, engaging with curated exhibits, talks, and brands like Titan and Nalla Neram that highlight the diversity of India’s watch scene. Their efforts underline India’s rising importance as a watch market and show how a thoughtfully built event can catalyze a new collecting culture.
The Latest Time
Citizen
Citizen Kicks Off 2026 With Three New Eco-Drive Powered Endeavor Chronos
Citizen’s new Endeavor Chronos are nautically themed Eco-Drive chronographs with 43mm stainless steel cases, unidirectional ceramic bezels, and wave-pattern dials. Powered by the Cal. B620 Eco-Drive movement, they offer up to 270 days of power on a full charge and 100 meters of water resistance. Colorways include a black-and-yellow model, a classic panda, and a rose-toned case with a blue-and-black dial, all available on steel bracelets or polyurethane straps. Pricing ranges from about $595 to $650 USD, positioning them as robust, everyday sport watches with strong value.
Fears
Fears celebrates 180 years with British Watchmaker’s Day exclusive
To mark its 180th anniversary, Fears is releasing the Brunswick 40 ‘1846 Edition,’ limited to just 25 pieces and debuting at British Watchmakers’ Day. The watch features a 40mm cushion-shaped case in hallmarked sterling silver, a diamond-set crown, and a dial design inspired by an 1846 pocket watch, complete with Roman numerals and a recessed small-seconds. Inside is the hand-wound La Joux‑Perret G121M movement with a 60-hour power reserve, paired with a historically inspired blue pig leather strap. Priced at £4,350 (about $5,940 USD), it’s aimed squarely at collectors who prioritize British heritage and low production numbers.
Read More >
Mermont
Mermont Makes Its Debut With The La Parfaite
Mermont enters the independent scene with La Parfaite, a 38mm platinum, single-hand watch designed to encourage a slower reading of time. The case is 9.2mm thick with a mix of brushed and polished finishes, cowhorn-style lugs, and a concave bezel framing a deep blue sunburst dial with Breguet numerals. Its steel, heart-shaped hand is driven by the La Joux‑Perret D101 movement, offering a 50-hour power reserve and regulation to around +/- 3 seconds per day. Limited to 28 pieces and priced at CHF 10,998 (about $14,160 USD) before VAT, it’s positioned as a highly exclusive debut for serious collectors.
Ochs und Junior
ochs und junior Introduce settimanas in PVD Series to Start 20th Anniversary Celebrations
For its 20th anniversary, Ochs und Junior has revived the settimanas with new PVD-coated dials that refresh the minimalist 36mm titanium design. The brushed dials in black or brown are enlivened by playful elements like colored hands and a distinctive day-of-the-week display, staying true to the brand’s quirky functional aesthetic. Inside, the proven ETA 2824‑2 automatic movement keeps things robust and serviceable. Priced at CHF 2,300 (about $2,960 USD), the new settimanas blend accessibility with the brand’s offbeat design language.
Praesidus
Praesidus Introduces Larger Versions Of Its Jungle Field Watch
Praesidus has upsized its Jungle Field watch to 38mm, answering calls for a more contemporary take on the 1967 GG‑W‑113 spec originally designed for US military pilots. The new models keep the no‑nonsense field-watch formula: black dial, bold Arabic numerals, 100m water resistance, and a reliable Miyota 9039 automatic movement. Two dial options are offered, one with creamy vintage-style numerals and one with crisp white printing, each available on brown leather or green canvas straps. At $550 USD, the Jungle Field Automatic 38 delivers a genuinely rugged, military-inspired piece at an approachable price.
Tertium Quid Watch
The Tertium Quid Watch Model R Rings The Alarm
The Tertium Quid Watch Model R is a highly limited alarm watch from a new Japanese brand founded by collectors Shun Horiuchi and Taku Yamashina. Its 38mm polished steel case houses a vintage A. Schild AS1475 manual movement that has been restored and modified to provide a 40-hour power reserve and an on/off alarm function. The black-and-silver sector dial, dual crowns, and deep blue French calfskin strap give it a refined yet purposeful vintage character. Limited to only eight pieces and priced at JPY 4,600,000 (about $29,700 USD) before VAT, it targets connoisseurs of rare, mechanically interesting complications.
Toledano & Chan
Toledano & Chan Introduce b/1.3r with Solid Gold Ripple Dial
The new Toledano & Chan b/1.3r shrinks the brand’s angular brutalist case down to 32mm and pairs it with a dramatic solid yellow gold ripple-textured dial. The organic, flowing surface catches the light in waves, a deliberate pivot away from the stone dials dominating the market while retaining the architectural titanium case. Underneath is a Sellita SW100 automatic movement, chosen for reliability and ease of service even if it plays a supporting role to the dial. With a price of $10,200 USD, the watch leans into its luxurious materials and sculptural presence as its primary appeal.
Urwerk
The Urwerk UR-10 SpaceMeter Combines A Conventional Display With Unconventional Information
The Urwerk UR‑10 SpaceMeter uses a relatively traditional three‑subdial layout to display decidedly unconventional data about Earth’s daily and orbital travel around the sun. Housed in a sandblasted titanium case measuring 45.4mm wide and just 7.13mm thick, it maintains a futuristic, technical presence on the wrist while remaining wearable. A patented turbine rotor controls winding speed, underscoring the brand’s focus on mechanical experimentation as much as visual drama. Limited to 25 pieces per dial color and priced at CHF 70,000 (about $90,080 USD), the SpaceMeter is aimed at collectors who enjoy both astronomy and avant‑garde independent watchmaking.
Read More >
Wearing Time - Reviews
Citizen
The Citizen Zenshin 60 Super Titanium, The Automatic Integrated Watch That Redefines Value
The Citizen Zenshin 60 Super Titanium is positioned as a standout value proposition in automatic watches, combining a full-titanium integrated case and bracelet with an in-house movement and sapphire crystal. Its 12-sided bezel and varied textured dials show off Citizen’s experience with titanium and give the watch a distinctive, contemporary character. Lightweight yet highly scratch-resistant, it is engineered for everyday wear while looking more upscale than its price suggests. A long power reserve and solid build quality reinforce Citizen’s aim of making advanced mechanical watchmaking broadly accessible.
Read More >
Edox
Edox Hydro-Sub Limited Edition Label Noir Hands-On: The Brand’s Classic Dive Watch Gets The Blackout Treatment
The Edox Hydro-Sub Label Noir Limited Edition reimagines the brand’s classic dive watch with a fully blacked-out aesthetic created in collaboration with design studio Label Noir. A matte PVD black coating covers the stainless steel case and bracelet, while a black ceramic bezel and hand-painted dial emphasize stealthy, minimalist styling. Despite its subdued look, the 42mm watch remains a capable tool with 300 meters of water resistance and a COSC-certified Edox Caliber 806 automatic movement. Limited to 140 pieces and priced at $2,450 USD, it targets enthusiasts who appreciate serious diving specs wrapped in a refined “all black” design language.
Laurent Ferrier
Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin 250 Hands-on: A Swiss Watch Celebrating The American Declaration Of Independence
The Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin 250 is a limited edition that quietly celebrates the 250th anniversary of the American Declaration of Independence by printing part of the text on its dial. Housed in a polished titanium case with the brand’s signature smooth, pebble-like shape, it features a hand-wound movement offering an 80-hour power reserve. A parchment-colored dial, 18k white gold hands, and restrained layout tie together the historical theme with classic Swiss elegance. Limited to 250 pieces and priced at $44,000 USD, it appeals to collectors drawn to the intersection of fine independent watchmaking and American historical symbolism.
Read More >
Comparing Time
Sunday Morning Showdown: Thomas’s Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601 Vs. Daan’s Cartier Santos Galbée XL
This showdown pits two beloved everyday watches against each other: a vintage Rolex Datejust 1601 from 1967 and a Cartier Santos Galbée XL. Thomas makes the case for the Datejust’s timeless proportions, white gold fluted bezel, Jubilee bracelet, and unique Japan dial, arguing it is the quintessential vintage all-rounder. Daan counters with the Santos Galbée XL, which he sees as the perfect mix of sport and dress, with a sleek case, integrated bracelet, and easy daily wear. Readers are invited to judge which personality and design better fits the “go anywhere, do anything elegantly” brief.
Weekend Reads: Five Days of Horological Excellence—Your WCL Guide to This Week’s Standout Releases
This roundup surveys a week of standout horological releases and stories, from TAG Heuer’s first Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph to Laurent Ferrier’s Declaration of Independence-themed Classic Origin 250. It also highlights Zenith’s DEFY Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton in rose gold and MB&F’s LM Sequential Flyback EVO, exploring how these pieces push modern complications and design. Alongside the watches, the article reflects on Richemont’s sale of Baume & Mercier to Damiani and what it signals about brand positioning and heritage in today’s market. Together, the features frame key questions about where high complications, independents, and legacy brands are heading in 2026.
Speedmaster vs El Primero: Hands-On Review of Two Iconic Chronographs
This comparison examines the Omega Speedmaster (in modern 3861 form) and the Zenith El Primero A384 Revival as two very different takes on the iconic chronograph. The Speedmaster is presented as the more versatile daily wearer, with subtle updates, comfort, and reliability that make it easy to live with in almost any setting. The El Primero A384 leans into its vintage case shape, dial, and historically important high-beat movement, offering more “character” and a stronger mechanical personality on the wrist. Both sit around the $9,000 mark, so the article argues the decision ultimately comes down to whether you value understated practicality or a more distinctive, conversation-starting experience.
Fratello’s Top 5 Video Game Watches — Featuring Hamilton, Seiko, TAG Heuer, And More
Here Fratello showcases five watches born from collaborations with major video game franchises, illustrating how gaming culture and watch design increasingly overlap. Picks include the Hamilton Khaki Field “Call of Duty: Black Ops 7” Limited Edition, character-driven Seiko 5 Sports Street Fighter models, and the Cyberpunk T-2077 with its futuristic titanium look. TAG Heuer’s Mario Kart Formula 1 and tourbillon pieces, along with G‑Shock’s League of Legends tie-ins, round out the list as collectible crossovers for fans. The article suggests this trend will keep growing, with rumors and teasers of even more game-linked watches already on the horizon.
The Finest New Watches Of LVMH Watch Week 2026
This recap of LVMH Watch Week 2026 walks through a curated selection of standout releases from Louis Vuitton, TAG Heuer, Bvlgari, Hublot, Zenith, Gérald Genta, and Daniel Roth. Highlights include the Gérald Genta Geneva Time-Only at CHF 25,000 and the Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime with its labor-intensive micro‑painted dial at EUR 95,000. Zenith’s Defy Skyline Chronograph in black ceramic, TAG Heuer’s tide-indicating Carrera Seafarer, and the Daniel Roth Extra Plat rose gold Skeleton each bring distinct technical and aesthetic twists. Hublot’s Sage Green Classic Fusion Chronograph and Bvlgari’s gem‑set Tubogas Manchette complete the picture, illustrating the range of design and pricing that defined the fair.
Watching Time - Videos
A Glashütte Watch Under $2,000 — What’s the Catch?
This video examines a surprisingly affordable Glashütte-branded watch priced under $2,000 and asks what compromises were necessary to reach that price point. It considers how materials, movement finishing, and production choices may differ from higher-end pieces associated with the town’s reputation. The host walks through where value is preserved and where corners might be cut, putting the watch in context with more traditional Glashütte offerings. Viewers are encouraged to think critically about what they really want from a “Glashütte” watch at this level.
ON TIME | FP Journe Designed This Cartier BEFORE He Was FP Journe!
This episode explores a little-known Cartier project designed by François‑Paul Journe before founding his own brand. The video traces how the watch’s construction, finishing, and technical solutions foreshadow the hallmarks that would later define F.P. Journe’s independent work. It places the piece in its historical context, showing how this collaboration fit into Cartier’s evolution as well. In the process, it connects a “hidden” chapter of Journe’s career to the celebrated horologist the watch world knows today.
Finally, LONGINES. Longines Conquest Heritage 38
This video takes a close look at the Longines Conquest Heritage 38, focusing on its blend of vintage-inspired styling and modern construction. Detailed shots highlight the dial, case, and proportions that aim to capture mid‑century charm in a wearable contemporary size. The presenter discusses how the watch fits into Longines’ broader heritage lineup, as well as its versatility as a daily or dress piece. It’s aimed at viewers who want a concise but thorough visual tour before deciding if the Conquest Heritage 38 belongs on their shortlist.
Watch Purchases Most Collectors Regret
This video digests common stories from collectors about watches they later regretted buying. It explores themes like chasing hype, ignoring fit or personal taste, underestimating servicing costs, and overpaying for poor value. Specific examples illustrate how trends and fear of missing out can push people into the wrong purchases. The goal is to help viewers recognize these patterns and avoid similar pitfalls in their own collecting.
The Absolute BEST Value For Money Watches Right Now
Here the focus is on watches that currently offer standout value relative to their price. The host compares build quality, movements, design, and brand support to explain why certain models punch above their weight. Different categories and styles are represented so that both beginners and experienced collectors can find options that suit their tastes. The video is designed as a practical buying guide for viewers looking to maximize what they get for their money.
The Hidden Cost of Perfection: Has the Rolex Submariner Lost its “Soul” over the Years?
This video questions whether the continual refinement of the Rolex Submariner has eroded some of the character that made earlier references so beloved. It contrasts vintage charm and idiosyncrasies with the almost industrial precision of current models. The discussion considers how modern manufacturing, quality control, and brand positioning affect perceived authenticity and emotional appeal. Viewers are invited to reflect on what they value more: perfect execution or the quirks of an earlier era.
5 WATCH BRANDS CRUSHING 2026 (and 4 That Are DYING)
This video surveys the state of the watch market in 2026, spotlighting brands that are thriving and those that are struggling. For the winners, it highlights successful design moves, smart pricing, and marketing that resonates with modern buyers. For the weaker brands, it points to missteps like stale collections, poor communication, or failure to adapt to shifting tastes. Together, these case studies offer a snapshot of how quickly fortunes can change in the industry.
Unboxing Accutron, Favre Leuba, Fears, ZRC, and Gaga Laboratorio. (Exquisite Timepieces)
In this unboxing video, the presenter opens and examines new pieces from Accutron, Favre Leuba, Fears, ZRC, and Gaga Laboratorio. Each watch is shown up close so viewers can appreciate details such as case finishing, dial textures, and bracelet or strap quality. Short brand and model overviews give context about design intent and historical roots. The result is a multi‑brand showcase that lets enthusiasts compare very different interpretations of contemporary watchmaking side by side.
Talking Time - Podcasts
SJX Podcast: Perfectly Impractical
This episode explores the strangely appealing world of impractical and barely legible watches that still manage to captivate collectors. SJX and Brandon discuss how certain designs intentionally prioritize aesthetics over usability, and why some of these pieces still succeed while others feel like fashion victims. The conversation turns to the fine line between art and function in watchmaking, and how truly memorable watches balance both. They also spotlight emerging independents from places like Japan and Finland, showing how fresh voices are reshaping what “good” design can mean.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee or Bezel
[Friday’s auction watch, the 2024 H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Cylindrical 42.8MM Skeleton Dial Steel Bracelet (3811-1200)- was bid to $31,000 but did not meet its reserve of $69,000. - make an offer]
IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Tourbillon L.E. 44MM Black Dial Leather Strap (IW504210)
Auction Report: IWC’s Portugieser Tourbillon—Complication, Prestige, and a Quiet Market Opportunity
The IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Tourbillon reference IW504210 occupies a very specific place in modern high horology: a large, classically styled complication from a mainstream Swiss manufacture that has long used the Portugieser line to showcase its most serious mechanical ambitions. This example, offered in a limited edition of 500 pieces worldwide, pairs a 44mm rose gold case with a black dial that highlights the brand’s restrained approach to complication design. The visual focus is unmistakably the tourbillon at 12 o’clock, balanced by a small seconds subdial at 9 and a power reserve indicator arcing between 3 and 6 o’clock, all rendered with warm gold hands and markers that play well against the dark dial.
Inside is IWC’s in-house caliber 98900, a manually wound movement developed during the era when the brand was aggressively reasserting itself as a true manufacture. The movement delivers a seven-day power reserve, thanks to twin barrels, and incorporates a flying minute tourbillon with a hacking mechanism—a technical flourish that allows the tourbillon to be stopped and reset for precise time setting. At the time of its introduction, this was an important statement piece for IWC, signaling that the Portugieser family was no longer just about oversized chronographs and simple dress watches, but also about serious haute horlogerie.
Historically, the Portugieser Tourbillon sits somewhat under the radar compared to tourbillon offerings from more overtly “collectible” maisons. That relative lack of hype has translated into softer secondary-market pricing over time, particularly for examples without box and papers. When new, this reference carried a retail price well north of $100,000, placing it squarely in the upper echelon of complicated watchmaking. In today’s market, however, comparable examples typically trade in a far lower band, often in the $30,000 to $40,000 range depending on condition, completeness, and timing. The current reserve price of $25,550 reflects both the absence of box and papers and the broader cooling of demand for large, precious-metal tourbillons outside the most aggressively collected brands.
Condition is described as good, and the listing is for the watch only, which will matter to collectors who prioritize completeness. That said, the watch itself remains the primary value driver here. For a buyer focused on mechanical substance rather than packaging, this represents a notable entry point into a tourbillon from a respected manufacture, with real historical and technical credibility. The 44mm case size is unapologetically bold, consistent with the Portugieser DNA, and while tastes have shifted slightly smaller in recent years, there remains a dedicated audience for watches of this presence, especially when paired with a classical dial layout and precious metal case.
As the auction closes tonight at 7:49 pm (Monday, January 26, 2026), this offering stands as a reminder of how dramatically values can diverge between retail ambition and secondary-market reality. For the right buyer, the IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Tourbillon IW504210 is less about speculation and more about acquiring a technically serious, visually elegant complication at a fraction of its original price—an increasingly rare proposition in the tourbillon segment.
Current bid: $8,000
Wow, the part about analog watches in a digital world really stood out. For an AI lover, it's like a beautiful bug in the sistem, no? So clever!