BuyingTime Daily - January 23, 2026
Richemont exits Baume & Mercier, Rolex CPO tops $600M, LVMH Watch Week shapes 2026, and auctions reveal where the market is really heading.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
The January 23, 2026 edition of Buying Time opens with a reminder that even the biggest groups make hard calls. Richemont is exiting Baume & Mercier, handing the brand to Italy’s Damiani Group in a move that prioritizes regional strength over global sprawl. It is a pragmatic reset for an entry-level marque that never quite found consistent profitability inside a high-luxury portfolio, and it leaves open questions about the future of Baumatic movements as the brand refocuses closer to home.
Security concerns remain front and center as well, with no arrests yet following the violent daylight raid on a Rolex boutique in London. The incident underscores how organized, high-speed theft has become a structural issue for the luxury watch business, not an occasional headline, and why stolen-watch registries and specialized police units are now part of the industry’s daily vocabulary rather than emergency responses.
On the feature side, airports are increasingly where watch culture meets commerce. Bob’s Watches is betting that authenticated pre-owned Rolex models belong alongside duty-free fragrances and business-class lounges, while Audemars Piguet quietly confirmed collector fantasies by putting the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked in white ceramic into production—an Only Watch unicorn that now exists, albeit for just 50 very lucky clients. Fashion also reasserted its influence, with Louis Vuitton, Dolce & Gabbana, and Ralph Lauren treating watches as expressive runway statements rather than background props, reinforcing how firmly timepieces sit at the intersection of style and identity. A candid conversation with Bob’s Watches CEO Paul Altieri ties it all together, touching on Rolex CPO, the rise of convincing superfakes, and why trust has become the most valuable currency in the secondary market.
Events and exhibitions add texture to the week. Independent master Kari Voutilainen heads to New York to talk guilloché at the Horological Society, while Grand Seiko brings the feel of Shibuya, Toyosu, and Kagurazaka to Singapore through an immersive Tokyo Time exhibition that pairs place, photography, and watch design in a quietly thoughtful way.
New releases deliver range and restraint rather than excess. Citizen goes compact and practical with a 39.5mm Promaster Land GMT powered by Eco-Drive, Czapek & Cie turns heads with a deep green, 18-piece Faubourg de Cracovie chronograph, L’Epée 1839 leans into artisanal enamel with a reimagined La Regatta clock, and Oris continues its conservation-driven storytelling with the Aquis Date Yangtze Jiangtun Limited Edition.
Reviews and comparisons round out the issue, from Bremont’s refined Altitude Date pilot’s watch to a hard look at Swiss dive watches under $2,000, plus a survey of black-case standouts that prove “stealth” no longer means compromise. The video lineup has been particularly strong this week, with LVMH Watch Week recaps, smart vintage buying advice, a contrarian take on buying Rolex in 2026, and thoughtful discussions of collaborations that actually add value.
At auction, reality met optimism once again. The Audemars Piguet Quantième Perpetual Calendar stalled well below reserve, and the spotlight now sits on H. Moser & Cie.’s Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton—a $69K question that perfectly illustrates the tension between retail aspiration and auction-room gravity.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
Richemont Unloads Baume & Mercier
Richemont has agreed to sell its entry-level brand Baume et Mercier to Italy’s Damiani Group, a key distributor through its Rocca retail chain. The brand has struggled with profitability, but the move is expected to give it a stronger foothold in Italy, where it already has representation in 325 stores—far more than in France, the United States, or Mainland China. As part of the deal, Richemont will continue to provide operational services for at least 12 months to support the transition. Questions remain over the future of Baume et Mercier’s Baumatic movements, produced by Richemont’s ValFleurier, as the brand refocuses more tightly on its most important market.
Still no arrests following violent daylight raid on Rolex
A violent raid struck a major Rolex showroom in London, owned by Bucherer, on January 20, 2026, when six armed individuals forced their way into the store on mopeds. The attackers threatened staff and customers with weapons, smashing display cases and escaping with high‑value watches before police arrived on the scene. Thankfully, no injuries were reported, but the incident has heightened concerns in a city already facing a surge in luxury watch thefts, with over 5,180 high-end pieces reported stolen between 2022 and 2025. The Metropolitan Police are still seeking witnesses, while The Watch Register works to log the stolen watches as a dedicated Flying Squad unit targets organized, violent robberies.
Feature Time
Airports where you can fly and buy Rolex second-hand watches
Bob’s Watches has expanded into airport retail by opening a new concession at JFK International Airport, partnering with travel retail giant Avolta. The space focuses on authenticated pre-owned Rolex watches, tapping into growing demand for second-hand luxury in high-traffic travel hubs. Airports are increasingly becoming shopping destinations, and duty-free pricing plus no sales tax make them especially attractive for luxury buyers. This move positions Bob’s Watches to capture international travelers looking for trusted access to coveted Rolex models.
Audemars Piguet Actually Made The Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked in White Ceramic, And A Few Lucky People Already Have One
Audemars Piguet has put into production the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked in white ceramic, originally created as a one-off for the OnlyWatch charity auction. Strong collector interest after the auction’s cancellation led AP to release a limited run of just 50 pieces for clients. The 41mm watch pairs a fully openworked Caliber 2972 movement, operating at 3 Hz with a 65-hour power reserve, with bright blue accents and finely hand-finished V-angles. Its combination of technical complexity, ceramic casework, and exclusivity makes it one of the most coveted recent Royal Oak variants.
Watches Are Back On The Runway At Paris Fashion Week
Watches returned in force to Paris Fashion Week, where major fashion houses used them as key styling elements rather than just functional accessories. Louis Vuitton leaned into high-craft horology with advanced Tambour pieces, while Dolce & Gabbana went maximalist by working elaborate pocket watches into their looks. Ralph Lauren embraced the trend of wearing watches over clothing, pairing vintage-inspired designs with sporty outfits on the runway. The shows highlighted how contemporary fashion is increasingly treating watches as expressive statement pieces that complete and elevate an ensemble.
Bob’s Watches CEO talks about Rolex CPO and super-fakes
Paul Altieri, CEO of Bob’s Watches, describes a luxury watch market that has become far more complex since 2010, with global competition, instant online pricing, and highly informed buyers. He notes that over half of the production from top brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe now ends up in the U.S., reinforced by tariffs and shifting demand. Altieri also warns about increasingly convincing “superfakes” in the secondary market and stresses the importance of buying from reputable dealers, especially as Rolex’s Certified Pre-Owned program lends new legitimacy to pre-owned sales. Despite volatility, Bob’s Watches continues to grow through customer focus, e-commerce strength, and expansion into airport retail, and Altieri expects demand to remain resilient absent a major recession.
Event Time
Kari Voutilainen To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
Kari Voutilainen will give a lecture at the Horological Society of New York on February 2, 2026, focusing on his workshop and the art of hand‑guilloché. He will trace the evolution of his craft, highlighting how his Finnish roots and Swiss experience shape his approach to creating exclusive, in‑house timepieces. The talk will also explore the history and techniques of guilloché, with insights from the Brodbeck Guillochage center, emphasizing the precision and artistry behind these decorative patterns. The free event will be held at the General Society Library in Midtown Manhattan, with staggered ticket access and a recording available to members afterward.
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Grand Seiko Brings Shibuya to Singapore
Grand Seiko’s Tokyo Time exhibition at its Marina Bay Sands flagship in Singapore, running from January 16 to 29, 2026, immerses visitors in the spirit of Tokyo through eight specially chosen watches. Each piece is paired with a specific district in the city, with photographer Gregory Harris capturing both the watch and its corresponding neighborhood to illustrate how each area “feels” time. Highlights include the SLGC001 Tentagraph linked to Toyosu, home to the world’s largest fish market, and the SLGH0055 White Birch in Kagurazaka, a district rich in French cultural influence. The free, no‑registration exhibition invites visitors to explore Grand Seiko’s design language while experiencing Tokyo’s character from Singapore.
The Latest Time
Citizen
Citizen Introduces an Affordable 39.5mm Promaster Land GMT Watch for 2026
Citizen’s new 39.5mm Promaster Land GMT brings a more compact case size to its rugged tool‑watch line without sacrificing capability. The stainless steel watch offers 200 meters of water resistance, a curved sapphire crystal, and a highly legible textured red dial with bright white markers, an orange GMT hand, and a fixed 24‑hour bezel. It is powered by the light‑driven Eco‑Drive GMT caliber B878, removing the need for battery changes and emphasizing everyday practicality. The watch comes on a solid stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp and is priced at about $595 USD.
Czapek & Cie
Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads Victory Green Chronograph
The Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads Victory Green Chronograph is a limited edition of just 18 pieces that blends refined finishing with a motorsport‑inspired design. Its 41.5mm stainless steel case houses the COSC‑certified automatic calibre SXH3, offering a 65‑hour power reserve, a tachymeter scale, and luminous subdials for clear chronograph reading. The striking green dial, crafted from a proprietary alloy and textured like tire treads, underlines the watch’s performance‑driven character while remaining elegant enough for formal wear. The watch is priced at CHF 32,000 (roughly $37,000 USD) or EUR 34,600 (also approximately $37,000 USD) before taxes.
L’Epée
L’Epée 1839 Reimagines its La Regatta Clock Through Enamel
L’Epée 1839’s La Regatta Clock is a vertical table clock inspired by the sleek profile of a racing skiff, pairing sculptural design with a high‑grade in‑house eight‑day movement. Its vertical gear train emphasizes symmetry, aligning the escapement and barrel in a visually balanced architectural layout. Each piece features a unique enamelled “hull” hand‑decorated by the David Kakabadze atelier, using techniques like cloisonné, flinqué, and plique‑à‑jour to create one‑of‑a‑kind works of art. Three main artistic interpretations—La Regatta Umi, Blue Horizon, and Prism—are offered, with price on request due to customization and materials such as palladium‑plated brass and stainless steel.
Oris
The Oris Aquis Date Yangtze Jiangtun Limited Edition
The Oris Aquis Date Yangtze Jiangtun Limited Edition is a 43.5mm dive watch created in partnership with the Changjiang Conservation Foundation to support the endangered Yangtze finless porpoise. Its 300‑meter water‑resistant stainless steel case, tungsten‑insert bezel, and automatic Oris calibre 733 deliver serious tool‑watch credentials, while the mother‑of‑pearl dial with wave motif echoes the river habitat and the porpoise’s sound‑wave communication. Limited to 1,249 pieces, the watch is engraved with the Yangtze porpoise on the caseback, tying the design directly to the conservation mission. It is priced at CHF 2,250, approximately $2,500–$2,600 USD.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Bremont
The Sleek, Flight-Ready Bremont Altitude Date
Bremont’s Altitude Date is a modern 39mm pilot’s watch that updates the brand’s aviation roots with a cleaner, more contemporary design. The polished 904L stainless steel Trip-Tick case delivers improved robustness and water resistance, while the matte black dial—drawing from the Martin-Baker partnership—prioritizes legibility with strong Super-LumiNova and a discreet date window. Inside, the BB14-AH automatic movement offers a substantial 68-hour power reserve and shock protection, reinforcing the Altitude Date’s tool‑watch credentials. The model marks a strategic step in Bremont’s streamlined Altitude/Terra Nova/Supermarine lineup and debuts new branding via the Wayfinder logo.
Mido
Mido Multifort 8 One Crown
This review focuses on Bulgari’s “Art of Gold” pieces for LVMH Watch Week 2026, spotlighting the Maglia Milanese Monete secret watch and the Tubogas Manchette cuff. The Maglia Milanese Monete centers on tactility and history, integrating an authentic ancient coin beneath a refined Milanese mesh bracelet and powering it with the upgraded Piccolissimo BVP100 movement, now featuring crown winding and a transparent back. The Tubogas Manchette revisits a 1974 design with a vivid gemstone palette on a diamond‑set cuff, built around a titanium blade that preserves both structure and the signature softness of Tubogas. Driven by the Lady Solotempo Automatic BVS100, these watches frame Bulgari’s vision of Italian jewelry artistry fused with modern Swiss mechanics.
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Comparing Time
Best Swiss Dive Watch Under $2k? Longines HydroConquest vs Mido Ocean Star Tribute
This comparison pits the Longines HydroConquest against the Mido Ocean Star Tribute in the sub‑$2,000 Swiss dive watch category. The HydroConquest stands out for its robust 300m water resistance, dependable L888 movement, and modern tool‑watch design that still wears comfortably day to day. By contrast, the Ocean Star Tribute leans heavily into vintage styling and charm but falls short on pure performance, particularly in areas like water resistance and lume strength. For buyers prioritizing functionality and reliability as much as looks, the HydroConquest is presented as the more capable, versatile choice.
Welcome to the Dark Side: 5 Black Watches to Know
This piece surveys five noteworthy black watches that show how dark designs can enhance both style and legibility. It highlights models such as the Zenith Pilot Automatic in black ceramic and TAG Heuer’s Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph, which uses a solar‑charging dial for continuous running. Other standouts include the Girard‑Perregaux Free Bridge Infinity Edition with onyx accents, an Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M that balances color and function, and a Seiko Prospex SRPK43 with a night‑vision‑inspired aesthetic. Together they demonstrate how modern materials, strong lume, and thoughtful dial design have turned black watches into a serious, highly functional category rather than just a fashion statement.
Watching Time - Videos
Fratello Talks: LVMH Watch Week Highlights
This video recaps the biggest releases and themes from LVMH Watch Week, giving an overview of how the group’s brands are setting the tone for 2026. It walks through key new models, design directions, and technical innovations that stood out during the show. Commentary from enthusiasts and industry voices adds context about where the market may be heading. It’s a compact way to catch up on an important tent‑pole event if you couldn’t follow it live.
I Would Buy These Vintage Watches RIGHT NOW!
Here the focus is on a curated group of vintage watches that the host believes are especially compelling buys at the moment. The video highlights what makes each piece desirable, from design language and period character to build quality and wrist presence. It also touches on how shifting tastes and market attention can influence the collectability and value trajectory of these models. Viewers get both buying ideas and a feel for why vintage continues to resonate so strongly with collectors.
Why 2026 is the WORST Year to Buy a Rolex (And What to Buy Instead)
This video lays out the case for why 2026 may be a poor time to buy a new Rolex, pointing to factors like production levels, pricing, and softer demand. It argues that these dynamics could limit upside and make the usual “safe bet” logic less convincing than in past years. The host then turns to alternative brands and models that may offer stronger value, better access, or more interesting propositions right now. It’s aimed at viewers who are Rolex‑curious but open to rethinking where they put their money.
Luxury Watch Collabs That Actually Got It Right
This video explores collaborations in the luxury watch space that genuinely add something new rather than just slapping two logos together. Each featured collab is broken down in terms of design, technical content, and how the partner brand’s DNA shows up in the final product. The discussion emphasizes where these projects move the needle—through unusual materials, novel complications, or bold aesthetics—rather than simple color swaps. It’s a survey of how cross‑brand projects can elevate both art and engineering when they’re done thoughtfully.
Watch News In 20 Minutes (January 2026) with Emily Marsden
Emily Marsden delivers a 20‑minute roundup of the most important watch news stories for January 2026. The format is designed to be fast but substantive, giving viewers enough background to understand why each headline matters. Topics span new releases, market developments, major industry moves, and notable events. It’s positioned as a monthly one‑stop catch‑up for enthusiasts who want to stay current without spending hours online.
Drop #261 - Platinum Dress Watches, A Vibrant Stone Dial Rolex & much more
This “drop” episode showcases a curated set of high‑end pieces, with particular focus on elegant platinum dress watches and a striking Rolex with a colorful stone dial. The video walks through the design details, finishing, and on‑wrist impression of each featured watch, highlighting what makes them special in a crowded luxury segment. It also touches on rarity, collectability, and how these pieces might fit into a broader collection. The overall tone is part showcase, part guided tour for viewers who enjoy seeing standout references up close.
This Small Italian Micro-Independent Watch Brand Make Actually Affordable Luxury Watches
Here the spotlight is on a small Italian micro‑independent that aims to offer “affordable luxury” through limited runs and thoughtful design. The video examines casework, dials, and movements to show how the brand delivers a high‑end feel without entering traditional big‑luxury price territory. It also explains the philosophy behind restrained production volumes and more direct relationships with customers. Viewers get a sense of how micro‑indies can provide individuality and craftsmanship that stand apart from mainstream offerings.
Making of the Windup Watch Fair: 10 Years Turning Chaos into Community
This video looks back at a decade of the Windup Watch Fair, charting its evolution from a scrappy, slightly chaotic gathering into a cornerstone community event. Organizers, brands, and attendees share stories about how the fair fostered connections and helped smaller makers reach passionate audiences. The piece emphasizes the fair’s role in making watch collecting more accessible, friendly, and hands‑on. It serves both as an oral history and an invitation to experience the fair’s energy, whether in person or through the screen.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee or Bezel
[Thursday’s auction watch, the Audemars Piguet Quantieme Perpetual Calendar L.E. 36MM Skeleton Dial Leather Strap (25558BA) - was bid to $22,500 but did not meet its reserve of $83,350. - make an offer]
2024 H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Cylindrical 42.8MM Skeleton Dial Steel Bracelet (3811-1200)
Auction Report: The $69K Question: H. Moser’s Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton on Bracelet
The lot on the block is a 2024 H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton, ref. 3811-1200, in stainless steel with the brand’s signature “Funky Blue” fumé time display at 12 o’clock and a fully openworked architecture built to show off what this watch really is: a high-complication kinetic sculpture you can swim with. The official specs matter here because they explain why collectors pay attention—42.8mm steel case, 72-hour power reserve, 12 ATM water resistance, and the fully skeletonised in-house automatic calibre HMC 811 pairing a one-minute flying tourbillon with Moser’s cylindrical hairspring.
Condition and completeness are correctly framed as the value drivers. The seller calls it “very good,” it has been resized, and the removed links are included—important because bracelet-fit friction is real at this price point, and missing links are an instant haircut. The set is also properly supported with inner/outer boxes, extras, and papers dated December 18, 2024. That’s the kind of “clean” package that keeps bidders from mentally discounting the watch before the first bid lands. Loupe This’ prior cataloging of this reference explicitly flags the same bracelet-sizing situation (sized bracelet with links included) and positions the model as launched in 2022, which helps contextualize it as a modern, current-generation Moser statement piece rather than a one-off oddity.
Now the market reality—and why the reserve matters. Retail anchoring is straightforward: H. Moser & Cie. lists the reference at CHF 79,000 excluding VAT, and authorized U.S. retail listings commonly show $99,600. Against that, secondary-market pricing is choppier. Chrono24 listings for ref. 3811-1200 have recently appeared in the mid-$60Ks up through higher ask territory depending on seller, set, and whether you’re looking at an ask or an executed deal. Auction context is even more sobering: Loupe This previously published an estimated value range of $40,000–$60,000 for the same reference, which is not a guarantee of where your specific auction will land, but it does reflect how a specialist auction platform thinks about bid-to-win levels versus retail optics.
So how does a $69,000 reserve read? It’s defensible if (and only if) the room is made up of buyers who specifically want the bracelet configuration, want a late-2024 dated paper set, and are comfortable paying closer to “strong private sale” money than “auction bargain” money. It is also meaningfully above at least one specialist platform’s published estimate band for the reference, which increases the odds of a no-sale unless competition shows up early and visibly. Put differently: the reserve is not crazy relative to some current marketplace asks, but it is optimistic relative to what auctions often require to clear a watch that is still, by design, a niche piece of independent high watchmaking.
Historically, this model sits at a very specific intersection in Moser’s story: the brand’s modern-era playbook of minimal dial branding, maximal mechanical theater, and serious chronometric ambition. The cylindrical hairspring is not decoration—it’s a technically legitimate approach that can offer more consistent oscillation characteristics, and pairing it with a flying tourbillon is Moser being both earnest and slightly provocative at the same time: “Yes, it’s a tourbillon, but we also care about the oscillator.” Add the three-dimensional skeleton construction, the dark anthracite-treated architecture, and the gold skeletonized rotor called out in the brand’s own technical description, and you have a watch that photographs like a concept car but is built as a robust daily-wear sports piece (12 ATM) rather than a velvet-box complication.
If you’re bidding, the practical guidance is simple. Verify that the bracelet links truly restore a wearable fit (and that nothing is “aftermarket” in the link set), scrutinize case and bezel edges for polishing telltales consistent with “very good,” and treat the reserve as the real opponent—not the other bidders. With the auction ending at 5:38pm on Friday, January 23, 2026, the winning strategy is to decide whether you’re buying a rare Moser experience (and paying up for it), or buying a price inefficiency. This watch can be either, but it usually can’t be both on the same day.
Current bid: $31,000
Reserve: $69,000