BuyingTime Daily - January 22, 2026
Rolex prices reset, the secondary market firms up, bold new releases land, and a rare Audemars Piguet perpetual closes at auction. A pragmatic moment for collectors.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
The watch market felt a little more grown up today, and that is not a bad thing. ROLEX continues to normalize on the secondary market as rising retail prices compress the spread that once fueled easy flipping. Average resale prices edged higher late last year, but value retention has slipped, underscoring that profits now live almost exclusively in the most desirable references. Certified Pre-Owned continues to gain traction, quietly reshaping buyer psychology and pulling some oxygen out of the speculative end of the pool. That more pragmatic tone was reinforced by a new look at used watch prices overall, which posted their first broad-based gains in years. According to fresh data, most of the upside remains concentrated at the top, led by PATEK PHILIPPE, ROLEX, and AUDEMARS PIGUET, while rising retail prices tied to currency strength and precious metals are pushing the market toward patience rather than hype.
Brand partnerships and regional demand offered a more optimistic counterweight. Tennis star Alex de Minaur’s decision to align with GERALD CHARLES highlights the growing appeal of independent watchmakers with genuine performance credentials, while strong late-year results from Chinese jewelry giant Chow Tai Fook suggest that improving consumer confidence and higher gold prices could spill over into renewed demand for luxury watches more broadly. On the feature side, HUBLOT set an assertive tone during LVMH Watch Week, using the Big Bang’s 20th anniversary to reinforce its disruptive identity with new materials, collaborations, and colorways designed to stay bold without becoming inaccessible. A thoughtful piece on watch packaging rounded out the editorial mix, arguing that while elaborate boxes from brands like PATEK PHILIPPE and OMEGA can enhance the experience and resale appeal, the watch itself still matters far more than the container it arrives in.
New releases were plentiful and wide-ranging, from AWAKE’s lacquer-dial Son Mai Frosted Leaf Royal Red and BLANCPAIN’s exquisitely complex Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar “Year of the Fire Horse,” to smaller, enthusiast-friendly offerings like the HÉRON Mirabel GMT “Cigar Club,” MARATHON’s Arctic-ready OSAR-D, and NODUS’s green-dial Sector Deep Pioneer. HUBLOT expanded its Coal Blue palette across both Big Bang families, SWATCH leaned back into art with a colorful Guggenheim collaboration, and ZENITH delivered full mechanical theater with the Defy Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton in rose gold. On the review front, TAG HEUER’s Carrera Chronograph Seafarer earned praise for translating vintage Solunar charm into a modern, wearable package without turning it into a museum piece.
Video and audio content added depth to the day, including a first look at OMEGA’s latest Seamaster Diver 300, a provocative exploration of whether the Powermatic 80 has become a disposable movement, and hands-on coverage of practical GMTs from Vaer. A deep dive into CHOPARD’s L.U.C Grand Strike 2025 reminded viewers what true high complication looks like, while the latest Scottish Watches and Business of Watches podcasts unpacked LVMH Watch Week highlights, brand-building strategy, and shifting market dynamics. Rounding things out, today’s auction spotlight centers on a rare AUDEMARS PIGUET Quantième Perpetual Calendar reference 25558BA, a skeletonized 36mm yellow gold perpetual from a 154-piece limited run that closes tonight, offering collectors a quiet but compelling reminder that substance tends to outlast noise.
-Michael Wolf
News Time
Rolex returns drop on secondary market as retail prices rise
Rolex is seeing a notable shift in the secondary market as average resale prices approach recommended retail pricing amid rising retail costs. Although secondary market prices for Rolex climbed 4.6% in Q4 2025, value retention has fallen 3.4% since October 2025, now at just 6.7%. That means most Rolex watches still sell modestly above retail, but the profit margin for flippers is shrinking, especially outside of the most coveted references. At the same time, Certified Pre-Owned Rolex sales continue to grow, reshaping how buyers and sellers approach the brand.
Used Watch Prices Post Broad Gains For First Time In Years As Secondary Market Strengthens
Used watch prices rose broadly in the fourth quarter of 2025, marking the first significant across-the-board increase in years. A Morgan Stanley report shows pre-owned prices up 1.9% quarter-over-quarter, with 21 of 35 tracked brands posting gains. Premium names like Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Audemars Piguet continue to lead, even as value retention for many other brands remains weak. Retail prices also jumped an average of 7% in January, driven by a strong Swiss franc and higher gold prices, suggesting a more pragmatic, less speculative market environment.
Alex De Minaur Partners With Gerald Charles
Australian tennis star Alex De Minaur, currently ranked No. 6 in the world, has entered into a new partnership with independent watchmaker Gerald Charles ahead of the 2026 Australian Open. De Minaur chose the brand for its emphasis on performance, precision, and independence, positioning himself away from large luxury group-owned manufacturers. On court, he will wear the Maestro GC Sport Tennis in Yellow, a super-light model inspired by tennis balls and designed for professional athletes. Both De Minaur and Gerald Charles’ CEO Federico Ziviani highlight the player’s genuine passion for fine watchmaking as central to the collaboration.
Sharp rise in sales for Chinese jeweler gives hope for luxury watch revival
Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group posted an 18% sales jump in the final quarter of 2025, hinting at a broader recovery for luxury watches after the pandemic. With nearly 7,000 sales points across Mainland China, Hong Kong, and Macau, the group saw a 17% revenue increase in Mainland China and a 23% rise in Hong Kong and Macau. Although sales volumes declined, surging prices—especially in gold—more than offset the drop, with the average ticket for fixed-price gold jewelry in China nearly doubling year-on-year. This rebound in jewelry spending and improving consumer confidence bodes well for renewed strength in the luxury watch segment.
Feature Time
Hublot CEO Sets The Tone For the Future
Hublot CEO Julien Tornare is doubling down on the brand’s disruptive identity as it heads into LVMH Watch Week, using the 20th anniversary of the Big Bang as a launchpad. Under his leadership, Hublot is reconnecting with its roots while pushing new designs and technical innovations, including pieces like the Big Bang Original Unico and the Big Bang Tourbillon Novak Djokovic GOAT Edition. Tornare also wants collaborations and fresh colorways to be more accessible, broadening the brand’s appeal without diluting its edge. His long-term goal is to keep Hublot relevant, energetic, and unmistakably innovative in a crowded luxury landscape.
Do Watch Packaging And Watch Boxes Really Matter?
Watch packaging and boxes, often overlooked, are shown to be an important part of the luxury watch experience. Brands like Patek Philippe and Omega invest heavily in meticulously designed boxes that amplify the unboxing moment and reinforce their image, which in turn can influence collector perception and even resale value. At the other end of the spectrum, Rolex takes a more restrained approach with simple green boxes that keep attention on the watch itself. The piece ultimately argues that while great packaging can enhance the experience, most enthusiasts still value the quality and character of the watch far more than the extravagance of its box.
The Latest Time
Awake
Awake Son Mai Frosted Leaf Royal Red
Awake expands its Son Mai collection with the Frosted Leaf Royal Red, a 39mm recycled stainless steel watch that blends polished and satin finishes with a handcrafted Vietnamese lacquer dial. The “Frosted Leaf” technique uses pure silver leaf tinted with copper pigments to create a richly textured surface that stands out in different lighting. Inside is the La Joux-Perret G101 automatic movement with a 68-hour power reserve, paired with 50 meters of water resistance for everyday versatility. Priced at EUR 2,200 (around $1,880 USD), it is limited to 100 pieces delivered in two batches and comes on a handmade red suede calfskin strap lined with rubberized leather.
Blancpain
Blancpain Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar “Year of the Fire Horse”
Blancpain’s Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar “Year of the Fire Horse” is a 45.2mm platinum limited edition of just 50 pieces, featuring a salmon Grand Feu enamel dial. The watch combines the traditional Chinese lunisolar calendar with the Gregorian system, displaying indications like lunar months, double hours, and the five elements in a balanced and classical layout. Powered by the automatic calibre 3638 with 464 components and a 7-day power reserve, it showcases refined finishing, including a frosted rotor engraved with a galloping horse and swallow. Priced at CHF 81,000 (approximately $64,500 USD), it is delivered on a brown leather strap with a white gold pin buckle.
Heron
Héron Introduce Mirabel GMT “Cigar Club” Edition with Full Lume Dial
The Héron Mirabel GMT “Cigar Club” Edition channels early 20th-century style with a 37.5mm stainless steel case and a salmon-tone dial that transforms into a full-lume display in the dark. Its design is tailored to refined environments, evoking smoky lounges and classic cigar rooms while remaining compact and versatile on the wrist. Inside, the Miyota 9075 true GMT movement allows local time to be adjusted independently, making it highly practical for frequent travelers. Priced at $690 USD, the watch includes a tobacco-brown Baranil leather strap and offers a 42-hour power reserve along with standout nighttime legibility.
Hublot
Hublot Big Bang and Spirit of Big Bang Coal Blue Collection
Hublot’s Coal Blue Collection reimagines both the Big Bang and Spirit of Big Bang lines with a palette of grey, black, and a new Coal Blue tone. The four models include titanium chronographs—the Big Bang Original Unico 43mm and Spirit of Big Bang 42mm—as well as smaller, diamond-set steel versions in 33mm and 32mm, all featuring carbon-effect or sunray dials. The larger pieces lean into Hublot’s technical, contemporary identity with flyback chronograph movements and bold case architecture, while the smaller models emphasize elegance and everyday wear. Together, they extend Hublot’s disruptive aesthetic into a coherent color-driven capsule across multiple sizes and styles.
Marathon Watch Company
Marathon 41mm OSAR-D Arctic Edition - Bright White Adds Personality To A Durable Tool Watch
The Marathon 41mm OSAR-D Arctic Edition is a rugged tool watch built around a high-visibility white dial that excels in bright, snowy, or desert environments. Its steel case offers 300 meters of water resistance and houses the Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, pairing military-focused durability with dependable performance. Applied hour markers, a date magnifier, and strong lume emphasize legibility, while multiple strap options allow the watch to be tailored to different uses and styles. Priced at $1,800 USD, it reflects Marathon’s blend of professional-grade specs and enthusiast appeal.
Nodus
The Nodus Sector Deep Pioneer Goes Green
The Nodus Sector Deep Pioneer “Ranger” variant introduces a gradient green dial to the brand’s compact 38mm dive watch platform, paired with a bezel overhang to 42mm for added presence. Rated to 500 meters of water resistance and driven by a Seiko NH34 GMT movement regulated to around +/- 10 seconds per day, it is built for serious use as well as travel. A matte black DLC-coated bezel with dive markings and compass directions, plus generous Super-LumiNova and a sandblasted steel case and bracelet, underline its utility-first design. Priced at $625 USD, it continues Nodus’s focus on delivering robust, thoughtfully engineered microbrand value.
Swatch
Swatch Expands their Art Watch Lineup with a New Guggenheim Collaboration
Swatch’s latest Art Watch collaboration with the Guggenheim introduces four new models inspired by works from Edgar Degas, Paul Klee, Claude Monet, and Jackson Pollock. Each watch uses biosourced materials and transparent, multi-colored straps to translate the artists’ visual language—such as Degas’s dancers or Monet’s Venetian cityscapes—into wearable art. With 30 meters of water resistance and playful, graphic dials, the pieces are designed to be accessible to a wide audience rather than purely collectible objects. The collection underscores Swatch’s long-standing link to the art world, turning famous canvases into everyday design statements on the wrist.
Zenith
The new Zenith Defy Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton
Zenith’s Defy Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton is a 41mm, full 18k rose gold statement piece that combines architectural design with a highly openworked El Primero 3630 SK movement. Operating at 36,000 vibrations per hour and featuring a one-minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock, the watch balances technical spectacle with legible timekeeping and a 50-hour power reserve. The skeletonized structure, rhodium-plated chamfers, and gold-plated hour markers highlight depth and finishing, while an integrated quick-change system lets the wearer swap between a gold bracelet and blue rubber strap. Limited to 50 pieces and priced at CHF 91,900 / EUR 102,800 / $103,700 USD (with CHF 91,900 equating to roughly $73,000 USD on its own), it targets collectors seeking both rarity and mechanical theater.
Wearing Time - Reviews
TAG Heuer
The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer Pays Homage To The Past With A Solunar-Inspired Dial
The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer is a modern tribute to the vintage Solunar, combining a 42mm steel case with a dial that echoes the 1949 original’s tide-indicator layout. Its champagne-colored base is accented with light teal blue and yellow, giving the watch a distinctive nautical character while preserving everyday usability with a date window and automatic movement. Powered by the Calibre TH20-04 with an 80-hour power reserve, it offers robust performance and a brushed finish that suits both casual and dress settings. As the first non-limited Seafarer, priced at $8,800, it is aimed squarely at enthusiasts and collectors who appreciate historically inspired designs with modern reliability.
Watching Time - Videos
OMEGA Can’t Help Themselves: New Seamaster Diver 300
OMEGA’s new Seamaster Diver 300 builds on the brand’s legacy of professional dive watches with a design aimed squarely at underwater performance. The watch combines robust construction and serious water resistance with a sleek aesthetic that fits easily into daily wear. Advanced materials and refined finishing underline OMEGA’s focus on both durability and luxury. Anticipation is high among divers and collectors who see this as the next evolution of one of OMEGA’s most important lines.
POWERMATIC 80 IS DISPOSABLE
This video project examines the idea that the Powermatic 80 movement is effectively “disposable,” exploring what that means for serviceability, longevity, and value. Created by Michael Wolf, it is slated for a January 22, 2026 run date but remains unpublished and in draft form. The concept suggests a critical look at whether long power reserves and factory regulation come at the cost of traditional repair culture. As it develops, the piece aims to spark discussion around how modern movements are designed and supported over time.
These New Watch Releases Are Absolute Bangers!
This video highlights a slate of recent watch releases that stand out for both design and technical execution. It focuses on how these models balance aesthetics, functionality, and build quality in ways that appeal to enthusiasts and casual buyers alike. By surveying a mix of styles and complications, the video underscores how competitive and creative the current watch landscape has become. Collectors are encouraged to see these pieces as signposts for where contemporary watchmaking is headed.
Hands on: Vaer A5 Atlas & G5 Pacific GMT
In this hands-on video, the presenter takes a close look at Vaer’s A5 Atlas and G5 Pacific GMT, digging into their design details, specs, and real-world wear. The review covers case finishing, dial legibility, bezel action, and strap options, giving viewers a clear sense of how each watch feels on the wrist. Special attention is paid to the GMT functionality and how it serves travelers and everyday users. Overall, the video positions these models as practical, well-built options for those seeking robust field and travel watches.
Inside Chopard’s Most Complex Watch Ever: The L.U.C Grand Strike 2025 with Sapphire Crystal Gongs
This video dives into Chopard’s L.U.C Grand Strike 2025, a highly complex chiming watch that uses sapphire crystal gongs to enhance both acoustics and visual drama. Viewers are shown how the movement’s intricate architecture turns mechanical energy into precise, musical chimes, highlighting why this piece sits at the pinnacle of the brand’s craftsmanship. The presentation explains how sapphire gongs improve sound clarity and durability compared to traditional materials. Positioned as a milestone in high horology, the Grand Strike 2025 is framed as both a technical marvel and a collectible artwork.
Talking Time - Podcasts
Scottish Watches Podcast #746 : LVMH Watch Week Winners Plus The Latest Watch News - Scottish Watches
This episode of the Scottish Watches Podcast breaks down the standout releases from LVMH Watch Week, including TAG Heuer’s latest Carrera split-seconds chronograph and Zenith’s Defy Skyline Skeleton in black ceramic and gold. The hosts discuss the technical merits, aesthetics, and value of these pieces, along with Hublot’s Spirit of Big Bang for the Chinese New Year and Gerald Genta’s new Geneva time-only model. They also touch on industry news such as leadership changes at TAG Heuer and Patek Philippe’s price moves in the US. Independent creativity, Casio mod culture, and a Nevada Grenchen x Wallace Allan collaboration round out a broad look at what’s new in watches.
Listen Now >
The Business of Watches Podcast: Manuel Emch, The Head Of Louis Erard And ‘The Numbers Guy’ At Kollokium, On How To Build A Successful Swiss Watch Brand
This episode features Manuel Emch sharing how he built and repositioned brands like Louis Erard and helped shape the micro-brand Kollokium, focusing on unconventional thinking in a crowded Swiss market. Emch explains what it really takes to create and sustain a compelling brand story, from product to pricing to community. The conversation also explores recent innovations at Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps, offering a glimpse into the craftsmanship behind high-end pieces. Joined by Malaika Crawford, the discussion expands to current Rolex trends and testimonees, giving listeners a wide-angle view of both creative and commercial forces in watchmaking.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee or Bezel
[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2024 Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite 44MM Silver Dial Textile Strap (1-89-02-01-05-61) - was bid to $12,277 and has a market value of over $19k, did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
Audemars Piguet Quantieme Perpetual Calendar L.E. 36MM Skeleton Dial Leather Strap (25558BA)
Auction Report: Audemars Piguet’s Skeletonized Perpetual—A Rare 36mm Yellow Gold Statement
The Audemars Piguet Quantième Perpetual Calendar reference 25558BA represents a fascinating moment in the brand’s modern history, when classical complications, precious metals, and avant-garde skeletonization converged in extremely limited numbers. Produced as a limited edition of just 154 pieces worldwide, this 36mm yellow gold perpetual calendar occupies a narrow but important niche: high complication watchmaking presented in a compact, traditionally proportioned case at a time when larger sports models were beginning to dominate collector attention.
The seller describes this example as being in vintage condition, an important qualifier for a watch of this age and complexity. The 36mm yellow gold case retains the elegant proportions that defined Audemars Piguet’s dress complications of the late 20th century, with a smooth bezel that frames the skeletonized dial without distraction. The openworked dial is the defining feature here, revealing the architecture of the perpetual calendar mechanism beneath and allowing the owner to observe the interaction of gears, levers, and calendar cams that drive the day, date, month, leap year, and moonphase displays. Unlike modern skeletonized watches that can verge on theatrical, this execution remains restrained and highly legible, a testament to Audemars Piguet’s long experience with both skeletonization and perpetual calendars.
At the heart of the watch is Audemars Piguet’s ultra-thin perpetual calendar movement, descended from the legendary caliber 2120/2800 family. This movement lineage traces directly back to the pioneering perpetual calendars Audemars Piguet introduced in the late 1970s, which helped reassert mechanical watchmaking’s relevance during the quartz era. The perpetual calendar automatically accounts for varying month lengths and leap years, requiring no manual correction until the year 2100, assuming uninterrupted operation. The skeletonized finishing elevates the movement from a technical achievement to a visual one, showcasing hand-finished bridges, polished bevels, and the delicate balance of components that define haute horlogerie.
Originally, watches like the 25558BA were produced in very small numbers and targeted at a clientele that valued complication and craftsmanship over brand signaling. As a result, many remained under the radar for years, overshadowed by Royal Oak perpetual calendars and later oversized complications. In today’s market, however, collectors are increasingly rediscovering these classical references, particularly those in precious metals and limited editions. Current market values for the Quantième Perpetual 25558BA generally fall in the mid-five-figure range, with pricing heavily influenced by condition, completeness, and originality. Examples with box and accompanying accessories, as noted here, tend to command a premium, especially as supply remains fixed and demand for historically significant perpetual calendars continues to strengthen.
The leather strap keeps the watch firmly in dress-watch territory, emphasizing its elegance rather than attempting to modernize its aesthetic. At 36mm, it wears comfortably and proportionally on the wrist, particularly for collectors who appreciate traditional sizing and the understated confidence that comes with it. For those accustomed to larger modern perpetual calendars, the restraint of this piece can feel refreshing, even radical, in its own way.
With the auction ending tonight at 9:14 pm on Thursday, January 22, 2026, this Audemars Piguet Quantième Perpetual Calendar offers collectors a rare opportunity to acquire a limited-production skeletonized perpetual from one of the most important maisons in Swiss watchmaking. It is not a watch designed to chase trends, but rather one that rewards patience, knowledge, and an appreciation for the quieter chapters of horological history—chapters that, increasingly, are being rewritten by a new generation of informed collectors.
Current bid: $14,000 (Market Reserve $83,350)