BuyingTime Daily - January 20, 2026
LVMH Watch Week steals the spotlight as complications, precious metals, and big-brand confidence collide, with TAG Heuer, Louis Vuitton, and Zenith setting the tone.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
LVMH Watch Week has taken over the conversation in a way only LVMH can, turning Milan into the temporary center of the watch world and reminding everyone just how coordinated, confident, and capital-intensive modern watchmaking has become. With launches spanning TAG Heuer, Zenith, Bulgari, Louis Vuitton, Hublot, Daniel Roth, Gérald Genta, and more, this week feels less like a product rollout and more like a strategic flex. Complications are back, precious metals are everywhere, skeletonization remains fashionable, and stone dials continue their march from novelty to house signature. From TAG Heuer leaning hard into chronograph legitimacy and nautical heritage, to Louis Vuitton doubling down on serious travel complications, to Bulgari doing what Bulgari does best—turning jewelry into horology—the message is clear: LVMH is not experimenting, it is executing. Watch Week has become the group’s answer to Geneva’s shrinking gravitational pull, and in 2026 it feels fully grown, globally confident, and unapologetically ambitious.
Away from Milan’s spotlight, the broader market picture is more mixed. Seiko’s UK business posted a modest sales dip amid a difficult high-street environment, but the takeaway isn’t retreat—it’s repositioning. Higher-priced Prospex references and mechanically driven divers are quietly lifting average transaction values, underscoring how even volume-oriented brands are pushing premiumization to offset retail pressure. At the other end of the spectrum, Watchmakers United’s new Monaco showroom shows how independent brands continue to seek relevance through proximity, storytelling, and experience, placing small-batch watchmaking directly in front of one of the world’s most concentrated luxury audiences.
New watches dominate today’s issue, and the volume alone reflects just how dense this LVMH cycle is. Highlights include Bulgari’s Tubogas Manchette, a spectacularly unapologetic gold cuff that blurs the line between high jewelry and watchmaking, and Daniel Roth’s Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton, which manages to feel both archival and daringly modern. Gérald Genta’s new Geneva Time Only is deliberately restrained, Hublot continues to explore material science and storytelling with everything from Novak Djokovic tributes to Year of the Horse editions, and Zenith balances forward-looking ceramic chronographs with faithful heritage revivals. TAG Heuer’s expanded Carrera lineup, now including Seafarer and Glassbox updates, reinforces how central that nameplate has become to the brand’s identity going forward.
On the review front, today’s Wearing Time feature on the TAG Heuer Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph makes the case that high-end chronograph legitimacy is no longer just historical—it’s current, technical, and very real. Developed with Vaucher and priced accordingly, it’s a reminder that the Carrera story is being written in present tense.
There’s also plenty to watch. Today’s videos walk through every new TAG Heuer Carrera debut from Watch Week, unpack the return of serious complications to Louis Vuitton’s Escale collection, and offer a concise SJX Podcast roundup of what actually matters from LVMH Watch Week 2026. If you want context without drowning in press releases, those are your shortcuts.
Finally, at auction, the spotlight remains on the richly indulgent 2024 OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch in Sedna gold—the so-called “Chocolate & Diamonds” Moonwatch. With the auction ending tonight and the current bid still well below retail reality, it’s shaping up as one of those moments where patience, paperwork, and discipline will matter more than hype.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
All the new releases from LVMH Watch Week Milan 2026
LVMH Watch Week 2026 in Milan (January 19–21) brings a broad slate of launches from Zenith, TAG Heuer, Gérald Genta, Daniel Roth, Louis Vuitton, Bulgari, Hublot, and others. Standouts include Bulgari’s Maglia Milanese Monete with an antique Roman coin, Hublot’s Yohji Yamamoto–designed Classic Fusion All Black Camo, and Zenith’s DEFY Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton in precious metals. Louis Vuitton pushes further into stone dials with the Escale Tiger’s Eye, while Gérald Genta introduces a more approachable Geneva Time Only model and Daniel Roth marks its revival with a bold skeletonized piece. TAG Heuer returns to nautical heritage with the Carrera Chronograph Seafarer, and L’Epée 1839’s La Regatta clock underscores the event’s focus on artisanal craft and sculptural horology.
Seiko UK sales dip during challenging time on high streets
Seiko UK Limited reported a 2.5% decline in sales to £27 million ($34.3 million) for the fiscal year ending March 2025, along with a sharp drop in operating profit. A one-off gain from selling its former office helped the company still post a £3.5 million net profit, softening the impact of tough trading conditions. Management points to the 2019 territory reshuffle as a drag on turnover but considers holding revenue broadly in line with 2023 a relative success. The brand is leaning into premiumization, with higher‑priced Prospex models and mechanically powered GMMT divers lifting average transaction values despite the challenging UK retail landscape.
Watchmakers United opens first showroom outside Switzerland
Watchmakers United has opened a new boutique in Monaco, its first physical showroom beyond Switzerland, following the 2024 launch of its Geneva hub. The space is designed as an immersive environment where visitors can explore independent watchmaking, meet the creators, and connect with the stories behind each brand. Founder Maximilien Roussel-Galle emphasizes narrative, authenticity, and direct engagement as the key to elevating lesser‑known independents. By carefully curating a portfolio from the US, UK, Switzerland, and Europe to fit the Monegasque clientele, the boutique gives small makers coveted exposure in one of the world’s wealthiest enclaves.
Feature Time
Experience: Bern’s Zytglogge Clock Tower—Where Swiss Horology Truly Began
Bern’s Zytglogge Clock Tower, built in 1218 and converted into a civic timekeeper in 1530, is a cornerstone of Swiss horological history. Its astronomical dial and astrological calendar embody centuries of technical ingenuity and meticulous maintenance. Standing beneath the tower, visitors see how Swiss watchmaking grew from a civic need for reliable time into an art form tied to celestial order. The tower’s recent restorations underscore an ongoing commitment to preserving the roots of haute horlogerie.
L’Epée 1839 Sets Sail with La Regatta Métiers d’Art
L’Epée 1839’s La Regatta Métiers d’Art is a sculptural clock that pairs racing‑skiff inspiration with traditional Grand Feu enameling. Each piece is unique and customizable, with layered enamel work that suggests movement, depth, and the rhythm of the sea. Beneath the art is an in‑house movement with an eight‑day power reserve, reinforcing the brand’s focus on mechanical integrity. Variants like La Regatta Umi and La Regatta Blue Horizon translate maritime themes into functional horological artworks for the home.
The Latest Time
Bulgari (Bvlgari)
The Dazzling Bulgari Tubogas Manchette
The Bulgari Tubogas Manchette is a yellow‑gold cuff watch that wraps sinuously around the wrist, powered by the automatic Lady Solotempo BVS 100 movement with a 50‑hour power reserve. Its 16mm case is framed by a 135mm bracelet set with citrines, rubellites, amethysts, and pavé diamonds radiating from the dial. A transparent caseback reveals the finely finished movement, underscoring Bulgari’s roots as a Roman goldsmith. The watch is priced at EUR 194,000, approximately $213,000 USD.
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Daniel Roth
The new Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton
The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton revives the brand’s signature ellipsocurvex case in a remarkably slim 6.9mm profile. Its fully skeletonized calibre DR002SR, with mainplate and bridges in 18K rose gold, showcases traditional hand-finishing and delivers a 65‑hour power reserve. The minimalist dial omits markers so the blued hands float over an openworked movement that can be admired from both sides. Limited in production, it is priced at CHF 85,000, approximately $97,800 USD.
Gerald Genta
The Sleek Gerald Genta Geneva Time Only
The Gerald Genta Geneva Time Only distills the brand’s architectural design language into a 38mm cushion‑shaped, time‑only watch in rose or white gold. A two‑segment smoked brown or silver‑grey dial with grained texture and polished indices emphasizes balance and depth. Inside, the automatic calibre GG‑005P (based on Zenith’s Elite 670) runs at 4 Hz and offers a 50‑hour power reserve, visible through the sapphire caseback. The watch is priced at CHF 25,000 before taxes, approximately $28,800 USD.
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Hublot
Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Year of the Horse
The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Year of the Horse is a limited edition of 88 pieces that celebrates the Chinese New Year with a frosted carbon tonneau case. Its dial, formed from hand‑laid carbon fragments, depicts a dynamic Tang‑inspired horse outlined in gold‑plated brass, with no hour markers to preserve the artwork. The MHUB1710 automatic movement beats at 4 Hz, delivers 50 hours of power reserve, and is paired with a black calfskin‑and‑rubber strap. The watch is priced at $37,900 USD.
Hublot Honours Hardcourt GOAT Novak Djokovic with a Big Bang Tourbillon
The Big Bang Tourbillon Novak Djokovic GOAT Edition pays tribute to Djokovic with a 44mm case made from advanced composites that incorporate upcycled polo shirts and rackets. Each of the three colorways represents a different tennis surface, and the total production of 101 pieces is tied to his career achievements. The HUB6035 automatic movement integrates a flying tourbillon and a bridge structure that evokes tennis racquet strings, providing a 72‑hour power reserve. Pricing is CHF 100,000, approximately $115,000 USD.
Hublot Presents Three Classic Fusion Models in Sage Green
Hublot’s Classic Fusion Sage Green trio brings a calming sunray sage dial to 33mm, 42mm, and 45mm titanium‑cased models. The 33mm quartz version adds 36 diamonds on the bezel, while the 42mm automatic and 45mm chronograph use HUB1110 and HUB1143 calibres respectively for everyday practicality and timing capability. Rubber and fabric straps pick up the green tones, keeping the aesthetic sporty yet refined. Together, they broaden the Classic Fusion line with a cohesive new color story in multiple sizes and complications.
Hublot Big Bang Original Unico Collection
The Big Bang Original Unico Collection revisits Hublot’s icon with 43mm multi‑layered cases in materials like Titanium, Black Magic ceramic, and King Gold Ceramic. Updated dials feature a two‑tone chequered motif, openworked date, running seconds, and a 60‑minute chronograph register. Inside, the in‑house Unico flyback chronograph offers a 72‑hour power reserve and pairs with the One‑Click strap system for easy customization. Prices range from CHF 16,900 to CHF 32,900, approximately $19,400–$37,800 USD.
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton Revives The Escale Worldtime Alongside A New Dual Time Complication
Louis Vuitton has brought back the Escale Worldtime with a hand‑painted dial showing 24 time zones, alongside a flying tourbillon version that pushes the line into haute horlogerie. Both sit in platinum cases with new in‑house movements, priced at $94,500 USD for the Worldtime and $239,000 USD for the Flying Tourbillon. A new Escale Twin Zone introduces a dual‑time display that even handles half‑hour offsets, available in rose gold at $57,500 USD and as a high‑jewelry platinum piece at $229,000 USD. Collectively, the collection repositions Escale as a serious travel‑complication family with strong visual storytelling.
Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence Guilloche
The Tambour Convergence Guilloché is a 37mm rose‑gold montre à guichet that displays hours and minutes through two arched windows instead of conventional hands. Its dial is covered in hand‑turned guilloché, requiring around 16 hours of engraving per piece and framing a refined, minimalist layout. An in‑house automatic movement provides a 45‑hour power reserve, with the watch rated to 30 meters of water resistance. Priced at EUR 59,000, it comes in at approximately $64,900 USD.
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Mido
The Mido Multifort 8 One Crown, A Streamlined and Accessible Integrated-Style Watch
The Mido Multifort 8 One Crown refines the Multifort 8 concept into a cleaner 40mm integrated‑style sports watch with a single crown at 3 o’clock. Its stainless steel case and bracelet deliver 100‑meter water resistance, while the blue dial’s horizontal striping, lume‑filled indices, and date at 3 o’clock keep the design both legible and contemporary. Inside, the automatic Caliber 80 offers an 80‑hour power reserve, giving the watch strong everyday practicality. The price is CHF 840, approximately $970 USD, making it a compelling value in the integrated‑bracelet segment.
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TAG Heuer
The TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Chronograph, now in 41mm
The latest Carrera Glassbox Chronograph scales the design to 41mm, preserving the domed “glassbox” sapphire and clean, vintage‑inspired lines. Its stainless‑steel case is water‑resistant to 100 meters and comes with dial options in blue, teal green, or black, each featuring recessed chronograph subdials. The in‑house TH20‑01 calibre provides an 80‑hour power reserve and column‑wheel control for a crisp chronograph feel. Priced at CHF 7,500, the watch comes in at approximately $8,600 USD.
The new TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer Chronograph
The Carrera Seafarer Chronograph revives TAG Heuer’s historic sailing watch name with a 42mm Glassbox case and a tide indicator complication. A champagne opaline dial carries colored tide and chronograph scales, blending heritage cues with modern legibility. The in‑house TH20‑04 automatic movement supplies an 80‑hour power reserve and robust performance, while 100‑meter water resistance and a “beads of rice” bracelet keep it practical at sea or on land. The Seafarer is priced at CHF 8,300, approximately $9,500 USD.
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Tiffany & Co
The Tiffany Timer, A Vibrant Tiffany Blue Chronograph
The Tiffany Timer is a 40mm platinum chronograph limited to 60 pieces, commemorating 160 years since Tiffany’s first stopwatch. Its Tiffany Blue dial with baguette diamond indices is created through a layered process that enhances richness and depth, framed by white‑gold details and a crown inspired by the brand’s solitaire setting. A customized El Primero 400 movement powers the watch, visible through an exhibition back that features a sculpted yellow gold “bird on a rock” rotor. The Tiffany Timer is priced at $55,000 USD.
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Zenith
The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph In Black Ceramic
The Defy Skyline Chronograph in Black Ceramic pairs a 42mm scratch‑resistant case with Zenith’s angular Defy architecture and a dark grey gradient star‑pattern dial. Rhodium hands, red accents, and tri‑compax chronograph counters highlight the high‑beat El Primero 3600, which runs at 36,000 vph and offers a 60‑hour power reserve. A ceramic bracelet and patterned rubber strap with quick‑change system add versatility, while 100‑meter water resistance keeps it ready for daily wear. Pricing is CHF 20,900 (about $24,000 USD), EUR 23,400 (about $25,700 USD), or $23,600 USD depending on market.
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The New Zenith Defy Revival A3643
The Defy Revival A3643 reissues a 1969 design with a 37mm stainless‑steel octagonal case, silver sunray dial, and 300‑meter water resistance. Luminous markers, an orange‑tipped seconds hand, and a date between 4 and 5 o’clock keep the vintage character while improving usability. The in‑house Elite 670 automatic movement offers a 50‑hour power reserve and is displayed through a sapphire caseback. The watch is priced at CHF 6,900 (about $7,900 USD), EUR 7,900 (about $8,700 USD), or $7,800 USD.
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Wearing Time - Reviews
TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph
The TAG Heuer Carrera Split-Seconds Chronograph debuts at LVMH Watch Week 2026 as a showcase of the brand’s high-end chronograph expertise. Its 42mm grade‑5 titanium case is lightweight yet sharply finished, with angled pushers that make operating the split‑seconds function intuitive. A highly legible dial with rhodium‑plated, Super‑LumiNova‑filled hands sits over a movement developed with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, beating at 5 Hz and offering a 65‑hour power reserve. Combined with a black rubber strap and striking red split‑seconds hand, the watch underlines TAG Heuer’s long chronograph legacy at an estimated price of CHF 110,000.
Watching Time - Videos
Every new TAG Heuer Carrera debuting at LVMH Watch Week 2026
This video walks through all the new TAG Heuer Carrera models unveiled at LVMH Watch Week 2026, highlighting how the line continues to evolve. It focuses on the blend of heritage Carrera design cues with updated case sizes, dial executions, and movements. You’ll see how TAG Heuer balances sportiness, legibility, and luxury finishing across the new references. The presentation is aimed at both longtime Carrera fans and newcomers curious about the modern lineup.
Complications are Back in the Louis Vuitton Escale, with World Time, Twin Zone and Repeater Models!
This video covers the return of serious complications to the Louis Vuitton Escale collection, including World Time, Twin Zone, and Repeater models. It showcases the intricate dials and casework that distinguish each complication, and explains how they’re meant to serve frequent travelers and collectors. You’ll get an overview of how Louis Vuitton is positioning Escale as a more technically ambitious platform, not just a design statement. The result is a set of pieces that marry bold aesthetics with traditional high‑watchmaking mechanics.
SJX Podcast: Best of LVMH Watch Week 2026
In this episode, the SJX Podcast recaps the standout launches from LVMH Watch Week 2026, offering context and critique around the most notable releases. The discussion covers design directions, movement innovations, and where each brand seems to be heading strategically. Listeners get both technical detail and big‑picture takeaways on what matters from the show. It’s a concise way to catch up on the event if you couldn’t follow every announcement in real time.
Talking Time - Podcasts
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Monday’s auction watch, the 2025 Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpa Kalpagraphe 48.2MM Skeleton Dial Rubber Strap (PFC193-3042500-X01442) - was bid to $6,000 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2024 Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 42MM Brown Dial Rose Gold Bracelet (310.55.42.50.13.001)
Auction Report: The “Chocolate & Diamonds” Moonwatch — 2024 Omega Speedmaster Professional 42mm in Sedna Gold (310.55.42.50.13.001)
If the standard OMEGA Speedmaster Moonwatch is the utilitarian icon, reference 310.55.42.50.13.001 is its black-tie (or at least velvet-rope) counterpart: a 42mm Moonwatch executed in OMEGA’s 18K Sedna™ gold, topped with a diamond-paved bezel, and finished with a rich brown step dial that nods to the 4th-generation Speedmaster design language. It’s still unmistakably “Moonwatch” in silhouette—lyre lugs, asymmetrical case, tachymeter scale—just translated into precious metal with a lot more wrist presence (and a lot more billable confidence). The watch is typically described as featuring sapphire crystal on the front and an exhibition caseback, and it’s powered by the hand-wound Calibre 3861 Master Chronometer movement with approximately 50 hours of power reserve.
A quick historical reset is warranted, because it’s the reason these pieces stay liquid even when the market mood swings. The Speedmaster’s story is inseparable from NASA testing and its association with Apollo-era spaceflight, which is why “Moonwatch” is more than marketing. This specific execution is modern-era OMEGA: the updated 3861 generation (co-axial, Master Chronometer positioning) wrapped in Sedna gold and elevated with gem-setting, aimed squarely at the buyer who wants the mythology but doesn’t mind their Moonwatch arriving with a bit of jewelry-store sparkle. The reference itself is commonly cited as debuting in the early 2020s (introduced as a precious-metal Moonwatch variant with a diamond-set bezel).
Condition and completeness (box, papers, links, accessories) matter here. The seller represents the watch as very good condition, resized, and including the removed links, plus a box and an additional item (but no mention of warranty card/papers). On a modern precious-metal OMEGA, missing papers usually isn’t fatal, but it is a negotiating point: it tends to widen the bid/ask spread, complicate future resale, and increase the importance of third-party authentication and a careful inspection of the case, bezel setting, and bracelet. Resizing with all links retained is a plus—solid-gold bracelets get expensive and annoying to replace link-by-link—so having the removed links helps preserve value and fit flexibility.
On value, the most defensible way to frame it is “current replacement cost vs. real secondary market.” Authorized retail for this reference is commonly shown at about $54,200. In the live market, visible asking prices cluster broadly from the high-$40Ks into the low/mid-$50Ks depending on geography, completeness, and seller type—Chrono24 listings, for example, show asks around roughly $48.8K–$54K for the same reference. That’s “asking,” not necessarily “getting,” and your auction result will hinge on two levers: (1) whether bidders treat this as a jewelry-forward Moonwatch (more niche) or as a precious-metal Speedmaster (more broadly collectible), and (2) the set’s completeness (box-only vs. full set). Given “very good” condition with box and extra links but no stated papers, a reasonable fair-value target often lands below the clean full-set retail narrative—think in the mid-$40Ks to around $50K depending on how competitive the room is and how comfortable you are with the missing documentation. For a buyer who wants to win without overpaying, the disciplined play is to bid as if you’re buying the watch and buying optionality: set a ceiling that still leaves you room to absorb authentication, an insurance appraisal, and (if you want it) an OMEGA service visit without feeling like you accidentally paid “new at the boutique.”
Practically, before you treat the hammer price as “done,” you want crisp answers on a few risk items that materially affect gold chronographs. Confirm the movement reference (Cal. 3861) and that the watch times, resets, and runs as expected; inspect the sapphire for chips; scrutinize the diamond bezel for uniformity (no missing stones, no obvious repair work); and look closely at the bracelet/clasp for over-polishing, dents, or soft edges that suggest more wear than “very good” implies. With no stated papers, insist on a strong authentication pathway and match serial/reference details to the case and documentation provided by the platform or seller.
The auction ends tonight at 9:54 PM (Tuesday, January 20, 2026), which means you’re in the classic “late-day impulse zone” where precious-metal sports icons can either sneak through at a sensible number or get carried into boutique-adjacent money by two bidders who decide they “deserve” Sedna gold. If you’re the rational adult in the room, anchor on retail ($54,200), sanity-check against current market asks (high-$40Ks to low/mid-$50Ks), discount for missing papers, and bid to a ceiling that still makes you happy a week from now—when the adrenaline wears off and you’re left with a very handsome, very shiny Moonwatch and the truth about what you paid.
Current bid: $22,500
LVMH basically turned Watch Week into a power move showing they can coordinate brand rollouts better than Geneva ever could. The premiumization trend at Seiko UK is intresting since even volume brands are chasing higher transaction values now. That Sedna gold Moonwatch auction is wild, retail around 54k but probably settling mid-40s without full papers seems like the smart play. Watched this shift happening across the whole indusrty where proximity and storytelling matter way more than they used to.