BuyingTime Daily - January 19, 2026
CEO shakeups, rare Patek price cuts, NBA tie-ins, standout indie watches, and a flood of new releases show a watch market resetting—and getting interesting again.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
The watch world opens the week with a jolt as TAG Heuer entered LVMH Watch Week without a CEO, following Antoine Pin’s sudden departure amid what the group diplomatically framed as “strategic differences.” The timing could hardly be louder, and it reinforces the sense that LVMH’s watch division is still searching for narrative control years after Jean-Claude Biver’s exit. On the pricing front, Patek Philippe did something almost unthinkable by announcing an 8% price reduction effective February 1, 2026, a meaningful rollback tied to the recent U.S. tariff reset rather than an act of generosity. The move improves retailer margins, corrects a prior tariff-driven distortion, and subtly resets expectations at the top of the market, while Vacheron Constantin reminded collectors that elegance still matters by unveiling its upcoming Concours d’Élégance Horlogère with Phillips, celebrating mechanical watchmaking from 1755 to 1999.
Elsewhere, Tissot doubled down on mainstream relevance by extending its NBA partnership for another decade, rolling out a redesigned shot clock and new ambassadors, and backing it all with a Supersport NBA Special Edition that leans fully into sports culture. On the enthusiast side, new and newly examined watches spanned the entire spectrum, from Blancpain’s highly symbolic Villeret Calendrier Chinois Traditionnel Horse to ultra-accessible new automatics from Citizen, fresh chronograph colorways from Hamilton, and playful limited editions from Maurice de Mauriac. At the sharper end, Richard Mille delivered another technical spectacle with the RM 33-03, while Rado, Pequignet, Maurice Lacroix, and MKII each contributed design-driven or purpose-built releases that underline how crowded—and interesting—the middle of the market has become.
Reviews this week ranged from high horology to honest tool watches, with A. Lange & Söhne’s LANGE 1 Daymatic Honeygold showing why the brand still sets finishing benchmarks, while pieces from Cimier, Tudor, and Vostra reinforced the appeal of well-sized, wearable watches once the launch hype fades. Commentary and opinion dug into bigger themes, including the cooling of FOMO, the shifting power balance between brands and retailers, the evolving watch-media ecosystem, and why designs like Hublot’s Big Bang deserve to be judged in the context of their cultural moment rather than current taste alone.
There is plenty to watch and listen to as well, with videos covering common collector mistakes, rugged GMT field watches, affordable entries into storied maisons, and deep dives into brand strategy from voices like Breguet, Bovet, and BVLGARI. Finally, today’s Auction Report zeroes in on a particularly compelling outlier: Parmigiani Fleurier’s skeletonized Kalpa Kalpagraphe, a shaped, high-frequency chronograph whose current bidding level highlights just how disconnected true mechanical substance can be from broader market attention.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
TAG Heuer CEO departs on eve of LVMH Watch Week
Antoine Pin has left TAG Heuer just before LVMH Watch Week, where his absence draws attention amid rumors of “strategic differences” with leadership. LVMH confirmed that Pin chose to pursue a new chapter, leaving the brand without a CEO at a key industry moment. His departure follows years of instability in the group’s watch division since Jean-Claude Biver’s 2018 retirement. Pin’s final remarks highlighted frustration that TAG Heuer was losing control of its narrative and needed to lead rather than follow market trends.
Patek Philippe bucks the trend, decreases prices in 2026 + Vacheron Constantin announces Concours d’Élégance Horlogère
Patek Philippe is cutting prices by 8% from February 1, 2026, reversing years of steady increases and responding to tariff-related distortions in its price structure. Though 8% seems modest, it is meaningful at an average retail price near $50,000 and will be felt most on higher-end pieces. The move may also be a tactical reset ahead of future hikes or repositioning, especially for certain gold references. In parallel, Vacheron Constantin is launching the Concours d’Élégance Horlogère with Phillips, a Geneva event in November 2026 celebrating elegant mechanical watches made between 1755 and 1999 across categories like chronographs and métiers d’art.
Patek Philippe Expected To Roll Back Some U.S. Prices Following Tariff Reduction - Read More >
Tissot Expands Global NBA Partnership In Multiyear Deal
Tissot has extended its global partnerships with the NBA, WNBA, and NBA G League for another decade, reinforcing its position as Official Watch and Official Timekeeper for professional basketball. The new agreement includes a redesigned round shot clock with RGB LED lighting and enhanced controls, debuting in the 2025–26 NBA season to improve both operations and fan experience. Tissot is also adding German NBA players Moritz and Franz Wagner as brand ambassadors, aligning the brand with rising on-court talent. To mark the renewal, the brand is releasing the Supersport NBA 2025 Special Edition watch, featuring a basketball-textured dial and NBA-logo seconds hand that tie the product directly to the partnership.
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Feature Time
Just A Minute With The Elliot Brown Holton Auto GMT
The Elliot Brown Holton Auto GMT is a tough, travel-ready tool watch built around a 43mm case and 200 meters of water resistance for real-world durability. Its automatic GMT movement lets the wearer track a second time zone easily via an independently adjustable 24-hour hand. The design favors clarity and robustness over complication, giving it strong wrist presence without unnecessary frills. It is clearly aimed at people who want a watch they can wear hard in both everyday life and demanding conditions.
Looking Back At Some Of Last Year’s Finest Indie Discoveries
This feature surveys a set of standout independent watches that showcase extreme handcraft, creativity, and limited production. Highlights include Manteio’s Zeus inspired by Greek mythology, Aubert & Ramel’s Ouréa with intensive hand-finishing, and Annelinde Dunselman’s Black Tulip with intricate floral details, all produced in very small series at high-art price points. Other pieces, like Alan Birchall’s Pièce d’Essai N.00 and Nicolas Delaloye’s Renaissance Tantalum 39mm, blend traditional watchmaking craft with modern materials and ultra-low production volumes. Fam Al-Hut’s Möbius, featuring a dual-axis tourbillon and split retrograde displays, underlines how independents are pushing both mechanical complexity and design language in fresh directions.
Real Watch Collectors: James Schaaf
James Schaaf traces his collecting back to a childhood Timex Wizzard Quartz and the influence of a grandfather who opened up the world of watchmaking to him. Over time he has assembled a collection that includes pieces like a yellow-gold Rolex Day-Date and a lapis-dial Submariner, both acquired long before such styles were widely coveted. For Schaaf, each watch is a personal memoir fragment rather than a speculative asset, and he gravitates toward independents that prioritize originality and craft over prestige. While he admires icons such as John Lennon’s Patek Philippe 2499, it is the emotional and narrative connection, not the market hype, that defines what matters in his collection.
The ABCs of Time: How Watch Dials Are Illuminated?
This article traces the history of luminous watch dials from early radium paint, which was bright but dangerously radioactive, through safer tritium and on to modern Super-LumiNova. Radium’s widespread use in the early 20th century led to severe health consequences for dial painters, the “Radium Girls,” whose legal fights became a catalyst for better workplace safety standards. Later developments such as tritium tubes and photoluminescent compounds like Super-LumiNova provide strong, long-lasting glow without the same health risks. Contemporary solutions like Rolex’s Chromalight and Seiko’s LumiBrite show how brands continue to refine lume performance, balancing visibility, safety, and manufacturing efficiency.
Tired of your watches? Try swapping straps
Here, a collector reflects on how the excitement of a new watch often fades within a few years, feeding a constant urge to move on to the next purchase. Rather than repeating the buy–sell cycle, they experiment with changing the strap on a Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Frosted Carbon, swapping a Velcro fabric strap for rubber. The change dramatically alters both the fit and visual character of the watch, making it feel more stable, cohesive, and exciting on the wrist. The experience underscores how something as simple as a strap swap can rekindle enjoyment and reveal new dimensions in a familiar piece.
The Brand That Turns Millionaires Into Sycophants
F.P. Journe has cultivated an intensely exclusive ecosystem in which access to its watches, especially coveted pieces like the Chronomètre à Résonance, requires visible dedication and patience from would-be buyers. By tightly controlling distribution and favoring those who participate in brand events and community, the company encourages a culture where even highly successful clients adopt deferential attitudes. The scarcity of production and strong premiums on the secondary market amplify this effect, making ownership feel like a privilege to be earned rather than a straightforward transaction. In turn, this dynamic reinforces a hierarchy among collectors and transforms the brand’s waiting lists and boutiques into stages where status, loyalty, and desire all play out.
Editorial Time
Watches are in their finest hour
The mechanical watch market is enjoying a renaissance, with younger buyers flocking to brands like Rolex, Cartier, and new independents. Lockdown-era demand pushed secondhand prices to unsustainable highs, but even after a correction since the 2022 peak, the pre-owned market remains strong at $27 billion and is projected to grow 12% annually. Many 18–24-year-olds increasingly see watches as investments, even as most models still depreciate and are harder to liquidate than traditional assets. Established brands are responding by engaging more directly with the secondary market to protect their image and combat counterfeits.
CORDER’S COLUMN: FOMO has been turned on its head in the watch industry
This column explains how the FOMO-driven scarcity model in luxury watches has broken down as demand has cooled and previously “impossible” pieces now sit in cases. Retailers that once rushed to open branded boutiques and chase allocations are rethinking those strategies as inventory becomes plentiful. The old power imbalance, where brands dictated terms and customers scrambled, is giving way to a landscape where service, staff quality, and true customer relationships matter more than square footage. With urgency fading, both brands and retailers need new ways to create desire that do not rely solely on artificial scarcity.
The Challenge Of Truth: Facing The Reality Of A Changing Watch Media Landscape
Watch media is being squeezed between shifting audience habits and brand expectations, as long-form written coverage competes with short-form video and social content. Independent outlets that prioritize honest critiques find it hard to survive when brands mainly back channels that deliver reach and positive messaging rather than nuance. To endure, these publishers must lean into video, sharpen their writing, and offer distinctive perspectives that cannot be replicated by paid influencer content. The piece argues that their survival ultimately depends on their own ability to adapt, not on financial rescue from the brands they cover.
We Shouldn’t Diminish The Impact Of Hublot’s Big Bang
This article places the Hublot Big Bang in its early-2000s context, where oversized, aggressively styled luxury watches mirrored a culture obsessed with visibility and excess. Its 44mm case, mixed materials, and bold design helped redefine what a status watch could look like and moved the conversation beyond traditional, conservative aesthetics. Hublot then doubled down by embedding the Big Bang in contemporary culture through sponsorships, celebrity partnerships, and sports tie-ins, keeping it culturally relevant even as tastes shifted. With nostalgia for that era now returning, the Big Bang stands out as a design that captured its moment and continues to influence how brands think about identity and impact.
Opinion Time
Christopher Ward Just Made the Affordable GMT I Wanted All Along
Christopher Ward’s 40mm C60 Trident GMT 300 stands out for pairing a versatile size with serious specs, including 300 meters of water resistance and a Sellita SW330-2 automatic GMT movement. Earlier colorways felt a bit off, but the new black dial with ceramic bezel, echoing the Rolex GMT-Master II aesthetic, unlocks the watch’s full appeal. A polished black lacquer dial, strong lume, and quick-release system add to its usability for travel and daily wear. Priced from $1,370 on rubber to $1,625 on the Consort bracelet, it positions itself as a compelling “do-it-all” GMT for enthusiasts who want value without sacrificing presence.
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Why watch lovers go wild for “patina”
This piece explores why collectors increasingly prize the patina that develops on vintage watches, from faded dials to softened case lines, as a visible record of a watch’s life. Instead of factory-perfect uniformity, these changes in color and texture turn each piece into a unique object that tells its own story. At the same time, the article warns of the growing prevalence of artificially aged watches that attempt to mimic genuine wear, raising ethical and authenticity concerns. Embracing true patina ultimately means valuing the honest passage of time, seeing a watch less as a flawless product and more as an artifact of lived experience.
Event Time
JCK 2026 registration is now open
JCK 2026 will take place at The Venetian Expo in Las Vegas from May 29 to June 1, 2026, bringing together retailers, designers, manufacturers, and brands from across the jewelry and watch industry. Under the theme “In Your Element,” the show emphasizes discovery, networking, and an inclusive atmosphere, with new additions such as the “Timepieces at Luxury and JCK” showcase and a dedicated “Lifestyle Pavilion.” Attendees will also have access to “JCK Talks,” a program of expert-led sessions covering business management, AI, and trend analysis. The event wraps with the “JCK Rocks” closing night, while tiered pricing is available via early bird, advance, and standard registration windows leading up to the show.
The Latest Time
Blancpain
Blancpain Villeret Calendrier Chinois Traditionnel Horse
Blancpain’s Villeret Calendrier Chinois Traditionnel Horse is a platinum, 50-piece limited edition that celebrates the Year of the Fire Horse with a salmon-rose Grand Feu enamel dial and a finely engraved galloping horse on the rotor. Its Caliber 3638 movement simultaneously displays Chinese and Gregorian calendar indications, plus moon phases, with a 168-hour power reserve and under-lug correctors for easier adjustments. The watch is priced at CHF 81,000, approximately $89,000 USD at current exchange rates, positioning it firmly in haute horlogerie territory. It’s a showcase of Blancpain’s technical calendar expertise and its commitment to integrating cultural symbolism into high-end mechanical watchmaking.
Citizen
New, Ultra-Accessible Citizen Automatic NJ0210 Dress and NJ022 Diver Style Series
Citizen’s NJ0210 dress models offer 40mm stainless steel cases, 50m water resistance, and the proven Calibre 8210 automatic movement in black, blue, or silvery-white dials on either leather straps or bracelets. The NJ022 diver-style series shrinks things to a compact 38.5mm with 100m water resistance and sportier colorways, including a light pink urethane strap option on the muted grey/silver version. Both lines are designed as everyday automatics that balance value, reliability, and versatility without compromising on basic specs. Each model in these ranges is priced well below €250, meaning under roughly $275 USD, making them very accessible entry points into mechanical watches.
Hamilton
The Hamilton American Classic Intramatic Chronograph H In Green, Brown, Or Blue
Hamilton expands the American Classic Intra‑Matic Chronograph H line with three reverse‑panda dials in hunter green, warm brown, and flat blue, each paired with silver sub-dials and a vintage racing vibe. The 40mm polished stainless steel case houses the hand‑wound H‑51 chronograph movement (based on ETA 7753) with 10 bar water resistance and matte gradient dials with applied markers. Each watch comes on a perforated nubuck leather strap that matches or complements the dial, plus an additional stainless steel mesh bracelet in the box. Prices are €2,295 / $2,445 / £1,980, with the effective street value anchored by the U.S. price at about $2,445 USD.
Maurice de Mauriac
Just In Time For The Australian Open, The Maurice De Mauriac X Racquet Rallymaster IV
The Maurice de Mauriac x Racquet Rallymaster IV is a 39mm, 100m‑water‑resistant limited edition created around the Australian Open, featuring a PVD‑black brushed steel case with vivid pink, aqua, and navy accents. Powered by the automatic Landeron 24 with a 40‑hour power reserve, it includes a cyclops over the date for easier reading and is intended as a playful yet capable sports watch. The package includes two straps—a black calf leather strap and a colorful stretch fabric strap—plus a black tennis ball to underline the tennis theme. It is limited to 100 pieces and priced at $2,750 USD or CHF 2,300 (around $2,530 USD).
Maurice Lacroix
Maurice Lacroix 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde
The Maurice Lacroix 1975 Master Grand Date Retrograde marks the brand’s 50th anniversary with a 42mm stainless steel case, box-shaped sapphire crystal, and an openworked dial that showcases a large date and retrograde weekday display. Inside is the calibre ML302, based on the Sellita SW200‑1, with a proprietary module that drives the distinctive calendar layout visible beneath the dial. A black alligator‑embossed leather strap and 50m water resistance keep the look dressy but practical for daily wear. Pricing is CHF 6,950 (about $7,600 USD) or €7,950 (about $8,700 USD), positioning it as an upper‑mid luxury piece emphasizing display mechanics and anniversary storytelling.
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MKII
This New MKII Fulcrum Reminds Me Why Military Watch Design Endures
The MKII Fulcrum 39 AMPHIBIOUS Special Edition is a 35‑piece limited run that channels classic military tool‑watch design in a 39.5mm stainless steel case with a unidirectional bezel and double‑domed sapphire crystal. Its dial is deliberately restrained, with BGW9 Super‑LumiNova, sword hands, and a low‑key logo to prioritize legibility and function. Built on the second‑generation Fulcrum platform, it offers robust construction, a solid bracelet, and reliable Miyota automatic movement options. Priced at $1,195 USD, it aims squarely at enthusiasts who want a purpose‑driven field/diver aesthetic tied to a real‑world military connection.
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Pequignet
Pequignet Royale Paris Manual 39.5mm
Pequignet’s Royale Paris Manual 39.5mm distills the collection into a time‑only hand‑wound watch with a steel case measuring 39.5mm by 11.5mm, combining polished and satin surfaces, a domed AR‑coated sapphire crystal, and an exhibition back. The opaline white dial is clean and balanced, with a snailed small‑seconds subdial, polished hands filled with Super‑LumiNova, and a blue seconds hand providing the only splash of color. Inside, the in‑house Calibre Royal Manuel delivers a 21,600 vph rate and an impressive 100‑hour power reserve, underscoring the movement‑focused concept. The watch is priced at €3,900, approximately $4,300 USD, and will join the permanent collection starting February 2026.
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Rado
The new Rado Anatom Skeleton
The new Rado Anatom Skeleton celebrates 40 years of the Anatom with a matte grey high‑tech plasma ceramic bezel and crown, a brushed steel middle case, and an ergonomically curved 32.5mm profile topped by a cylindrical sapphire crystal. Its skeletonized dial exposes the R808 automatic movement, highlighting grey bridges, yellow‑gold‑colored wheels, and a contemporary architectural feel. The movement offers an 80‑hour power reserve and improved anti‑magnetism thanks to a Nivachron hairspring, balancing everyday robustness with visual drama. Priced at €4,500, or about $4,950 USD, it sits as a modern design‑forward halo piece within Rado’s catalog.
Richard Mille
Richard Mille RM 33-03 Carbon TPT 5N Red Gold—New Skeletonized Automatic with Micro-Rotor
The RM 33‑03 Carbon TPT 5N Red Gold blends Richard Mille’s signature high-tech materials with a rare round case format, pairing Carbon TPT, Grade 5 titanium, and 18K 5N red gold elements into a sleek, ultra‑light 73.4‑gram package. Its skeletonized dial reveals the new RMXP3 ultra‑slim automatic calibre with a micro‑rotor, semi‑instantaneous date, and small seconds, delivering about 40 hours of power reserve and high winding efficiency. Floating red-gold numerals on titanium rails create strong depth and a distinctive three‑dimensional look. At CHF 145,000, roughly $159,500 USD, it targets collectors who want Richard Mille’s technical spectacle in a more classically shaped but still aggressively modern watch.
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Wearing Time - Reviews
A. Lange & Söhne
A. Lange & Söhne LANGE 1 DAYMATIC HONEYGOLD
The LANGE 1 DAYMATIC HONEYGOLD is a limited edition that showcases Lange’s proprietary Honeygold alloy, sitting tonally between pink and white gold while offering enhanced hardness. Its 39.5mm case contains the asymmetrical Lange 1 layout with an off‑centre time display, outsize date, and a retrograde day‑of‑week indicator, all set against a rich brown dial with matching date discs. Inside, the automatic L021.1 calibre delivers a 50‑hour power reserve and the brand’s signature high‑end finishing, visible through the display back. Limited to 250 pieces, it targets collectors who prize both metallurgy innovation and Lange’s meticulous dial and movement architecture.
Cimier
Cimier 47° North Review: An Unimpeachably Solid Field Watch
The Cimier 47° North is a 38mm, 11.25mm‑thick field watch designed to hit the modern sweet spot for size while remaining robust with 100m water resistance. Its dial is clean and versatile, offered in blue and other colors with ample lume for legibility, and the case finishing mixes brushing and polished accents to keep things visually refined. While the stock strap is on the thicker side, it can be easily swapped, and the watch’s proportions suit both casual and slightly dressier contexts. Powered by the ETA 2824‑2 with a 38‑hour power reserve, it comes in around CHF 850, making it an appealing option for someone wanting a colorful, go‑anywhere field watch with solid specs.
Tudor
Examining The Tudor Ranger 36mm Dune White After The Hype Has Passed
The Tudor Ranger 36mm Dune White refines the field‑watch formula with a compact 36mm steel case whose slab‑sided profile emphasizes sturdiness over flash. Its Dune White dial gives a softly vintage feel, though the pale background slightly compromises low‑light legibility compared to black‑dial siblings. The watch is driven by Tudor’s in‑house MT5400 movement, offering a 70‑hour power reserve, COSC certification, and the reliability expected from the brand. Paired with an oyster‑style bracelet, it positions itself as a durable, everyday tool watch that should remain attractive long after launch buzz fades.
Vostra
Hands-On With The Vostra Vector: A Retro-Futuristic Chronograph That’s Built To Be Worn
The Vostra Vector is a 40mm retro‑futuristic chronograph that mixes 70s Americana and mid‑century industrial cues into a practical everyday package with 100m water resistance and a sapphire crystal. Its matte dial, applied indices, and clean layout (notably without a tachymeter) keep the design readable and approachable rather than over‑styled. Inside, the VK63 mecha‑quartz movement delivers the tactile feel of a mechanical chronograph with quartz convenience and low‑stress ownership. Priced at $279, it’s positioned as an affordable, fun chronograph you can wear hard without worrying about fragility or servicing costs.
Comparing Time
Seiko 5KX vs. Orient Mako II: Affordable Dive Watch Showdown
This comparison pits two wallet‑friendly “dive” icons against each other to see which one truly earns long‑term wrist time. The Seiko 5KX leans into everyday versatility with its casual styling, sunburst dial, and easy wearability, though some cost‑cutting is evident in the bracelet. The Orient Mako II, by contrast, stays closer to a pure dive‑watch brief, with higher water resistance, a more cohesive tool‑watch design, and a stronger mechanical feel. Over time, the Mako II is the one that tends to win out, offering a more satisfying, purpose‑built experience straight out of the box.
The most fun watch brands
This piece highlights a group of brands that bring playfulness and creativity to watch collecting, cutting through the hobby’s often overly serious tone. Studio Underd0g and Mr Jones Watches use color, storytelling, and unconventional time displays to make pieces that feel like wearable art. Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker, Swatch’s pop‑culture collaborations, and H. Moser & Cie.’s tongue‑in‑cheek designs show how humor and commentary can coexist with real horology. Bamford Watch Department rounds out the list with bold customizations and character‑driven graphics, proving that joy and personality can be central to a collection.
Best Dive Watches That Are Actually Tools: Picks After Years Of Reviews
Here the focus is on dive watches that still behave like proper tools, not just shiny lifestyle objects. The selections—ranging from pieces like the Citizen Promaster Diver to the CWC Royal Navy Diver—are chosen for real‑world performance: water resistance, durability, legibility, and solid movements. Each watch’s strengths and compromises are discussed in practical terms, such as crown feel, lume quality, and case robustness. The conclusion encourages buyers to prioritize function and long‑term wearability over polish and hype when choosing a dive watch.
Best field watches
This roundup surveys nine field watches that blend military‑inspired ruggedness with everyday style. Classic cues—matte dials, Arabic numerals, and strong lume in tough cases—anchor pieces like the Boldr Venture Sandstorm and Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical, while designs such as the Unimatic Modello Due U2 and Zodiac Olympos push the look in more modern or idiosyncratic directions. Higher‑end options like the Tudor Ranger and IWC Mark XX demonstrate how refined finishing and advanced movements can coexist with the field‑watch template. Across the price spectrum, the list shows how these watches can move from trail to office without sacrificing their practical roots.
21 New Watches You Missed from Omega, Oris, G-Shock, Christopher Ward and More
This article rounds up a wide spread of recent releases, from the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch in a reverse‑panda configuration to Oris’s Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye” with vintage‑inspired charm. It also spotlights pieces like a “Bruce Wayne”‑leaning Christopher Ward Trident GMT, a high‑spec G‑Shock MRG‑B2100D‑2A, and Hamilton racing chronographs, plus a bronze‑clad Yema skin diver. On the more extreme end, Norqain and Jacob & Co. appear with limited editions and mechanically ambitious creations, including a blisteringly fast tourbillon. Together they sketch a snapshot of how varied the modern watch landscape has become, from accessible daily wearers to wild high‑complication art pieces.
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Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch “Reverse Panda” Vs. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona “Le Mans”
This showdown compares two high‑end gold chronographs that share reverse‑panda dials and near‑identical pricing, with the Daytona at $50,400 and the Speedmaster at $49,300. One side argues for the Omega, praising its refined design and quieter storytelling as the purist’s choice; the other defends the Daytona’s rarity, historical weight, and cutting‑edge movement in a thinner case. The debate digs into how narrative, marketing, and emotional pull matter as much as specs when enthusiasts choose between icons. Readers are ultimately invited to weigh which blend of heritage, design, and exclusivity resonates more.
Recapping 2025
Fratello’s Top 5 Releases From LVMH Brands In 2025
Fratello spotlights five standout 2025 releases from LVMH brands that blend bold design with serious watchmaking. Zenith’s Defy Chronograph USM pairs a high‑beat El Primero movement with vivid colors and a retro‑leaning case, while the Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater and the ultra‑slim Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription showcase haute horlogerie finishing and elegant profiles. Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Convergence pushes into unconventional territory with a striking digital‑style display, and TAG Heuer’s Formula 1 Solargraph refreshes the brand’s motorsport image with solar power and bright, youthful aesthetics. Together, they capture the diversity and momentum of LVMH’s watch portfolio heading into LVMH Watch Week in Milan.
Watching Time - Videos
The 5 Mistakes Watch Collectors Make — And How to Avoid Them
This video breaks down five common missteps that can undermine both enjoyment and value in a watch collection. It emphasizes how buying without proper research leads to regrets on brand reputation, specs, and resale. Neglecting regular maintenance is another key issue, as it can damage movements and erode long-term value. By encouraging a clear strategy and more rational decision‑making, it aims to help collectors avoid impulse buys and build more coherent, satisfying collections.
Elliot Brown Holton GMT — A Rugged Field Watch with True GMT Function
Here the focus is on the Holton GMT as a travel‑ready field watch that can handle rough conditions while tracking multiple time zones. The video highlights its robust build, clear dial, and true GMT functionality that makes it useful for frequent travelers and those working across borders. Attention is given to materials and design choices that favor durability without sacrificing looks. It positions the Holton GMT as an everyday companion that fits both outdoor use and casual wear.
The Cheapest Breguet Watch You Can Buy Today (Less Than a Tudor)
This video uncovers an unexpectedly attainable entry point into the Breguet universe, comparing its price and positioning to that of Tudor. It walks through the watch’s design, movement, and finishing to show where the value lies despite the lower price. The presenter stresses Breguet’s heritage and distinctive aesthetic as differentiators in the crowded luxury segment. Overall, it makes the case that this reference delivers genuine Breguet DNA without the usual sticker shock.
Exclusive Interview with Mr. Pascal Raffy Owner of Bovet 1822
In this interview, Pascal Raffy explains how Bovet 1822 balances deep tradition with modern creativity in high horology. He talks about the brand’s devotion to hand‑craftsmanship, artistic decoration, and unusual case architectures that set Bovet apart. The conversation also touches on the challenges of remaining independent and ultra‑high‑end in a competitive landscape. Viewers get a sense of Raffy’s personal passion and how it shapes Bovet’s identity as a maker of wearable works of art.
I Found The PERFECT Watch Collection
This video presents a curated watch collection intended to cover a wide range of styles, from classic dress pieces to contemporary sports models. Each watch is discussed in terms of aesthetics, function, and how it fills a specific “slot” in a rounded collection. The host explains the logic behind the choices, offering a framework for thinking about balance rather than simple accumulation. It is aimed at helping viewers imagine or refine their own ideal small collection.
The Man Shaping BVLGARI’s Future Watches | Wei Koh with Jonathan Brinbaum
Wei Koh talks with Jonathan Brinbaum about how BVLGARI is evolving its watchmaking identity under his leadership. Brinbaum explains how the brand is weaving together its jewelry heritage, Italian design flair, and serious Swiss watchmaking. The discussion highlights strategic priorities like technical innovation, distinctive case and bracelet architecture, and coherent storytelling. It offers a look at how BVLGARI aims to stay ahead in a crowded luxury field by leaning into both tradition and modernity.
Internet’s Favourite Dive Watches, Ranked
This video ranks dive watches that have become darlings of online watch communities, from entry‑level pieces to more serious tools. Each watch is evaluated on criteria like design, specs, comfort, and overall reputation among enthusiasts. The host explains why certain models punch above their price, while others may be overhyped. By the end, viewers get a clearer picture of which popular divers might actually fit their own needs and tastes.
Omega Is Getting WORSE (Plus More Hot New Watches)
The host argues that recent Omega releases show worrying trends, whether in design decisions, pricing, or perceived quality, and contrasts them with earlier eras. At the same time, the video surveys “hot” new watches from other brands that may be more compelling right now. It uses these examples to illustrate shifting market expectations and where Omega may be losing ground. The overall tone mixes critique with practical guidance for buyers trying to navigate current offerings.
SJX Podcast: Indie Investments and Odysseus Face-Off
This episode uses the myth of Odysseus as a framing device to discuss independent watch investing and broader financial decision‑making. It explores how narrative, patience, and risk can mirror the hero’s journey in both collecting and markets. The conversation touches on specific indie brands and how their trajectories might play out over time. Listeners are invited to think more critically about the stories that drive both their investments and their horological passions.
How One Go-Anywhere Watch Challenges Luxury Watches
This video examines a highly versatile “go‑anywhere, do‑anything” watch that undercuts traditional notions of luxury. It shows how one well‑designed piece can handle office, travel, and casual use, making it a realistic alternative to owning multiple niche watches. The host contrasts this practicality with the exclusivity and fragility often associated with high luxury pieces. In doing so, it highlights a broader consumer shift toward functionality and value over pure status signaling.
The Top integrated watches at all price points
Here the focus is on integrated‑bracelet watches spanning a wide spectrum of budgets, from accessible steel sports models to top‑tier luxury pieces. The video compares design language, case and bracelet integration, and movement quality across the lineup. It also comments on comfort, versatility, and how each option fits into daily life rather than existing as a safe‑queen. Viewers come away with a structured overview of the integrated‑watch category and where to look based on their budget and priorities.
Talking Time - Podcasts
Hairspring
This episode dives into hot takes within the watch community, questioning everything from the look of regulator dials to whether Lange truly rivals Patek in the minute‑repeater space. Erik and Max invite and dissect controversial listener opinions, creating a lively back‑and‑forth about design, reputation, and taste. They close by talking through resolutions for enthusiasts in the new year, encouraging more intentional collecting and self‑awareness. Along the way, they reference specific historical pieces and articles, giving listeners plenty of avenues for deeper exploration.
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Scottish Watches Podcast #745 : Sarah The Duchess of Watches Returns for 2026
In this episode, Sarah “The Duchess of Watches” returns to unpack how the auction world really works and what has changed since the post‑COVID boom. The discussion covers the mechanics of auctions, the rise of certified pre‑owned programs, and why auctions remain essential for surfacing important vintage pieces. They also highlight charity lots like the Fears Brunswick Experimental 01 and notable Voutilainen sales, using them to show how education, not hype, should guide buying decisions. Side trips into Glasgow events and microbrands keep the conversation lively and grounded in the broader watch community.
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Watching Deals
eBay Finds: A Pair of Vintage Omegas, an Accutron with a Tuning Fork Movement, and More
This edition of eBay Finds curates a small group of vintage watches that combine character, period design, and collector appeal. Highlights include a C‑case Omega Constellation with a clean silver dial, a bold Wittnauer diver with a vivid blue dial, and a 1960s Waltham dress watch that still has its original box. The list also features a striking 1960s Accutron with a tuning fork movement and two‑tone metallic blue dial, plus a 1950s Omega Seamaster whose aged patina adds to its charm. Together, these pieces illustrate how well‑chosen vintage watches can deliver both history and distinctive aesthetics at a range of price points.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee or Bezel
[Friday’s auction watch, the 2025 Ressence Type 7 “Aquamarine” 41MM Green Dial Titanium Bracelet (Type 7 XV) - was bid to $18,888 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2025 Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpa Kalpagraphe 48.2MM Skeleton Dial Rubber Strap (PFC193-3042500-X01442)
Auction Report: The Tonneau That Thinks It’s a Race Car: Parmigiani’s Skeleton Kalpagraphe
If you like your chronographs round, safe, and politely anonymous, the Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpa Kalpagraphe is not here to help. This is the brand’s tonneau-shaped chronograph statement piece—big, architectural, and unapologetically technical—built around the modern-era Kalpa design language that traces back to the collection’s 2001 debut and the 2018 refresh that emphasized shaped, in-house movements and COSC-certified chronographs.
The watch you’re bidding on is the 2025 Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpa Kalpagraphe reference PFC193-3042500-X01442 with a skeletonized dial and rubber strap, presented by the seller as like-new and coming as a full set (inner/outer boxes, additional items) with papers dated February 28, 2025. Case material is titanium, the profile is the Kalpa’s signature tonneau, and the size is in the “wrist presence required” category—commonly listed around 48mm long by about 40mm wide for this reference.
Under the openworked display is the PF362 family of movement—an integrated automatic chronograph architecture that’s notable for being high-frequency (5 Hz / 36,000 vph) and built with the enthusiast-grade checklist: column wheel and vertical clutch, plus a healthy power reserve (often cited at about 65 hours) and COSC chronometer certification. The practical upshot is that, for all the visual drama, this isn’t “just” a skeletonized fashion flex; it’s a serious chronograph engine, and one from a maison best known for quiet refinement rather than shouting.
On value, the secondary market is where this reference gets especially interesting. Retail figures reported online vary by source and configuration—some listings cite a “last known retail” around $39,500, while other retail-oriented pages show higher numbers—so treat MSRP as a rough context point rather than a pricing anchor. In contrast, current pre-owned asking prices for this exact reference cluster much lower, with visible listings around the low-to-mid teens (for example, $12,950 on a major pre-owned retailer page, and similar ranges appearing across aggregator marketplaces, with occasional higher outliers). The Watch Outlet is auctioning this watch and it is on their website for $17,450 - and listed as new. That spread usually reflects condition grading, completeness of set, seller reputation, and whether a particular piece is marketed as a limited edition variant.
For bidding strategy ahead of the auction close (7:57 pm on Monday, January 19, 2026), the sober approach is to anchor yourself to today’s real-world comps, not yesterday’s MSRP, or even the $17,450 the seller is trying to sell this watch for. If this truly presents as “like new” with a clean skeleton dial, crisp case lines, correct clasp/deployant, and an honest full set with 2025 papers, it deserves to trade toward the stronger end of the current pre-owned range—but it still needs to clear the basic question every Kalpagraphe buyer faces: do you want a bold tonneau chronograph from an underappreciated high-horology brand enough to live with the size? If yes, this is precisely the kind of watch where buying pre-owned can be the entire point.
Before you place your final bid, I would specifically scrutinize (1) movement photos for cleanliness and any tool marks, (2) the rubber strap condition at the holes and around the clasp, (3) sapphire crystal edge chips (easy to miss in angled shots), and (4) whether the skeletonized hands and indexes remain highly legible in real lighting. And if the auction premium is material, bake it into your maximum so you don’t “win” your way into overpaying.
If you land it right, this is a legitimately compelling value proposition: a COSC-certified, high-frequency, integrated chronograph in titanium with an openworked presentation—distinctive in shape, under-the-radar in brand perception, and meaningfully more expensive to replicate than the market currently prices it.
Current bid: $5,300