BuyingTime Daily - January 16, 2026
Younger collectors reshape buying habits, Richemont posts strong sales, classic watches regain favor, bold 2026 releases land, and a standout Ressence auction closes the day.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
The January 16 edition of BuyingTime Daily opens with a clear signal about where the market is heading in 2026: younger collectors are buying fewer watches, but buying better ones. Watches are increasingly being treated as markers of life events and long-term value rather than impulse accessories, a shift that plays directly into heritage, trust, and storytelling. Cartier emerges as a prime example of a brand benefiting from this mindset, reinforcing the idea that emotional resonance and perceived permanence matter more than novelty alone.
That long-view approach also shows up in the numbers. Richemont posted an 11 percent sales increase in the third quarter of 2025, with the Americas once again doing the heavy lifting. Jewelry maisons led the charge, but the watch division’s solid growth underscores how resilient luxury demand has been, even amid tariffs, currency noise, and geopolitical uncertainty. It is not exuberance so much as steady conviction, and that tone feels very much in sync with how collectors are behaving right now.
On the dealer side, Steven Rostovsky offers a grounded, on-the-street perspective shaped by tariffs, a weak dollar, and shifting price parity. His takeaway is refreshingly simple: interest is swinging back toward classic, legible, uncomplicated watches, and enthusiasm for independents remains strong. That theme dovetails neatly with Fratello’s take on the first releases of 2026, which range from anniversary pieces at Seiko to new offerings from Oris and fresh Speedmaster variations from Omega, all pointing to a year where heritage, accessibility, and bolder dial work coexist rather than compete.
New watches were plentiful today, led by the Armin Strom Tribute Aurum Edition with its richly textured dial and long power reserve, and followed by a diverse run of independents and creatives including Grandeur, Jaquet Droz, Maurice de Mauriac, Oliver Gallaugher, Venezianico, and VPC. From kinetic jump-hour displays and metiers d’art one-offs to ultra-slim dive watches and Italian guilloché, the breadth on display reinforces just how wide the enthusiast spectrum has become. On the review side, Hamilton’s Intra-Matic Chronograph H delivers approachable vintage racing appeal, while Roger Dubuis goes full haute horlogerie with a bi-retrograde perpetual calendar that leans unapologetically into 1990s bravado. A head-to-head comparison of the Omega Speedmaster and Rolex Daytona rounds things out, reminding readers that at this level, preference and wearability matter as much as specs.
There is also plenty to watch, literally. Videos span everything from top-tier watchmaking deep dives featuring F.P. Journe, A. Lange & Söhne, Cartier, and Laurent Ferrier, to sharper takes on gold tool watches, dealer trade-in tactics, and the emotional fallout of selling a grail like a Rolex Daytona. Add in multiple Fratello discussions, collection shake-ups, and a £15,000 budget challenge, and there is no shortage of background viewing.
The day closes at auction with a detailed look at the Ressence Type 7 XV “Aquamarine,” a floating-dial anniversary piece that blends real engineering substance with visual theater. With bidding still low relative to retail benchmarks, it serves as a reminder that patience and discipline remain a collector’s best tools, even when the watch itself looks like it is defying gravity.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
Behavioural trends shaping the watch industry in 2026
Younger consumers in 2026 are reshaping the watch industry by making more intentional, value-driven purchases and favoring quality pieces over impulse buys. Many people in their 20s and 30s are choosing to commemorate key milestones with meaningful timepieces instead of short-lived experiences, treating watches as symbolic investments. Brands like Cartier are increasingly seen as long-term, value-retaining choices rather than just fashion statements. As a result, storytelling, brand trust, and a sense of heritage are becoming central to how watches are marketed and collected.
Richemont Reports Sales Up 11% For the Third Quarter of 2025
Richemont posted an 11% sales increase in Q3 2025 despite geopolitical and economic headwinds, including tariffs affecting exports to the US. The Americas led regional performance with a 14% sales rise, helping lift nine‑month sales to EUR 17.0 billion, up 10% at constant exchange rates. The group’s four jewellery maisons—Buccellati, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Vhernier—were the main growth engines, posting a 14% quarterly increase. Its watchmaking division also advanced 7%, buoyed by strong demand in the Americas and the Middle East & Africa, underscoring the resilience of luxury demand amid a complex macroeconomic backdrop.
Feature Time
Dealer Steven Rostovsky on Why Classic, Simple Watches Are Trending and the New Brand He Took on
Steven Rostovsky, a Los Angeles-based dealer in rare watches, describes how tariffs and currency swings reshaped his business in 2025, pushing him to focus more on local buyers and domestic inventory. Despite initial fears about rising tariffs on Swiss imports, demand stayed strong in the final quarter, even as a weak dollar pushed prices higher. He sees traditional global pricing parity fading, with U.S. prices now often higher than in other markets, but remains optimistic thanks to increasing enthusiasm for independent watch brands. Looking ahead, he expects a shift away from quirky, hyper-complicated designs toward classic, simpler pieces that emphasize timeless elegance over novelty.
Event Time
Vacheron Constantin and Phillips to Stage Horological Concours
Vacheron Constantin is launching its first-ever Concours d’Élégance Horlogère in partnership with Phillips, creating a dedicated competition for collectors of VC timepieces. Scheduled for 2026, the event spans seven categories, from chiming watches to astronomical complications, and is open to owners of Vacheron Constantin watches produced between 1755 and 1999. Collectors can register until April 30, 2026, with winners to be announced on November 10, 2026, by a jury led by VC heritage director Christian Selmoni and Phillips’ Aurel Bacs. By borrowing the concours format from the world of classic cars, the event deepens the brand’s ties to its collector community and highlights the breadth of its historical creations.
The Latest Time
Armin Strom
Armin Strom Tribute Aurum Edition
The Armin Strom Tribute Aurum Edition is a 10‑piece limited series that evolves the Tribute 1 design with an openworked, hand‑finished in‑house calibre AMW21 and an impressive 100‑hour power reserve. Its 38 mm stainless steel case combines polished and brushed surfaces, while the gold‑plated brass dial uses a tremblage technique to create rich texture. The movement architecture is on full display, emphasizing the brand’s blend of technical ingenuity and aesthetic detail. Priced at CHF 27,000, this translates to approximately $33,550 USD at current exchange rates, positioning it firmly in high‑end collector territory.
Grandeur
Grandeur Introduce the Monocle with Patented Jump Flap Hour Display
The Grandeur Monocle debuts a patented Jump Flap Hour display that combines a rotating disc for the hour with a monocle‑shaped hand, creating a novel, kinetic way of reading the time. Its meteorite micro‑rotor and meteorite dial options add a distinctly cosmic character, while a 42 mm titanium case keeps the watch light on the wrist. Powered by the Grandeur calibre 5000A with a 42‑hour power reserve, it is engineered to match its avant‑garde visuals. Limited to as few as 35 pieces in some variants and priced at £2,418, it comes to roughly $3,160 USD, making it a relatively accessible entry into highly original independent design.
Jaquet Droz
Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Red Gold Japanese Garden Unique Piece with Hand-Carved Mother-of-Pearl
This unique Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Red Gold Japanese Garden transforms the dial into a three‑dimensional landscape of koi, water lilies, and cherry blossoms, meticulously sculpted from mother‑of‑pearl and 18K red gold. Over twenty separate appliqués are hand‑carved and painted, turning the watch into a miniature work of art rather than a conventional limited edition. Inside, the automatic Caliber 2653 offers a 68‑hour power reserve and refined finishing that mirrors the artistry on the dial. Created in close collaboration with a collector, it stands as a one‑off expression of the brand’s metiers d’art capabilities.
Maurice de Mauriac
Maurice de Meuriac x Racquet Rallymaster IV
The Maurice de Mauriac x Racquet Rallymaster IV channels the energy of nighttime tennis through a black PVD case and vivid neon dial details designed by Carlton DeWoody. Its 39 mm brushed stainless steel case, 100‑meter water resistance, and Landeron 24 automatic movement with a 40‑hour power reserve make it as capable as it is eye‑catching. Limited to just 100 pieces and sold exclusively during the Australian Open in Zurich and Melbourne, it leans into a tightly curated distribution strategy. Priced at $2,400 USD (excluding VAT), it offers a playful, sport‑centric twist on a modern mechanical chronograph.
Oliver Gallaugher
Stellar Sequel: Oliver Gallaugher Deep Space Blue
The Oliver Gallaugher Deep Space Blue is a 35‑piece limited edition that refines the original Deep Space concept with a smaller, more advanced movement inside a 38 mm case. Its blue dial, patterned with distinctive star motifs, leans into the celestial theme while maintaining a clean, contemporary design language. The customized Le Temps Manufactures SA movement delivers a 60‑hour power reserve and sharp finishing, including broad striping and diamond‑cut bevels. Priced at $12,800 USD, the watch combines transparent sourcing with high‑end independent finishing to appeal to serious collectors.
Venezianico
Venezianico Redentore Utopia II, Italian Watchmaking and Artisanal Guilloche
The Venezianico Redentore Utopia II is a limited edition that showcases Italian craft through a hand‑guilloché “Marea” dial inspired by the tidal patterns of the Venetian lagoon. Housed in a 38 mm stainless steel case, it uses the new V5001 movement with a 60‑hour power reserve and is offered in two dial variants, Alpha (gold‑galvanic) and Beta (graphite‑galvanic). Matching handmade Italian leather straps and polished metal indices complete its refined, Renaissance‑influenced aesthetic. Priced at EUR 4,500, this corresponds to approximately $5,195 USD, positioning it as a premium yet comparatively accessible artisanal piece.
VPC
Introducing: The Impressive VPC Type 39VM
The VPC Type 39VM is a 200‑meter dive watch that stands out for its ultra‑slim 9.34 mm profile, likely making it the thinnest automatic diver in its class. Built in a 39 mm stainless steel case with a matte ceramic bezel insert, it comes in Graphite or Frost dial executions and is powered by a COSC‑certified Sellita SW300‑1b movement. Limited to 500 pieces, it emphasizes comfort and everyday wearability while maintaining serious dive‑watch credentials. Pricing runs from EUR 2,768 on rubber (about $3,194 USD) up to around EUR 3,267 with both strap options (about $3,770 USD), offering a high‑spec independent alternative in the mid‑luxury dive segment.
The VPC Type 39VM, Claimed to be the Thinnest 200m Automatic Dive Watch - Read More >
Wearing Time - Reviews
Hamilton
The New Models Of The Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph H
The Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph H line draws heavily from the brand’s 1960s–1970s motorsport heritage, with a polished 40 mm stainless steel case and a distinctly retro stance on the wrist. Dial options such as Matte Blue, Warm Brown, and Hunter Green are paired with contrasting silver subdials and tachymeter scales to reinforce the vintage racing vibe. Inside is the hand‑wound Calibre H‑51, offering a 60‑hour power reserve and a 28,800 vph beat rate for robust, modern performance. Delivered on perforated leather straps and a mesh bracelet, and priced at EUR 2,295, the collection is positioned as a permanent, enthusiast‑friendly staple in Hamilton’s lineup.
Read More >
Roger Dubuis
Roger Dubuis Hommage Placide Perpetual Calendar Biretrograde Watch
The Roger Dubuis Hommage Placide Perpetual Calendar Biretrograde blends bold 1990s design language with a sophisticated bi‑retrograde perpetual calendar that automatically accounts for varying month lengths and leap years. Its layered dial combines a deep blue lacquer base, gold accents, and an 18k yellow gold moon phase, creating rich visual depth and drama. A compact 38 mm case houses the Geneva Seal‑approved RD1472 manufacture movement, underscoring the brand’s focus on haute horlogerie finishing standards. Limited to 28 pieces and priced at €115,000, it targets collectors who appreciate both technical complexity and expressive, era‑defining aesthetics.
Comparing Time
Comparing The New Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Black & White Ref. 310.30.42.50.01.004 With The Rolex Daytona Ref. 126500LN
This comparison sets the new Omega Speedmaster Professional “Black & White” against the Rolex Daytona as two of the most compelling sporty chronographs in the $10,000–$20,000 range. Omega’s latest Moonwatch adds a ceramic bezel and lacquer dial while becoming the first non‑limited steel Speedmaster to cross the $10,000 mark at a retail price of $10,400, versus the Daytona’s $16,900. Under the hood, Omega’s Co‑Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 3861 and Rolex’s Caliber 4131 both deliver strong performance, with the Speedmaster offering a more visually open movement and the Daytona emphasizing efficiency and robustness. Differences in thickness, wearability, and overall aesthetic make the choice highly dependent on the buyer’s priorities rather than a clear technical winner.
Recapping 2025
The sleeper hit watch releases of 2025
This recap highlights under‑the‑radar watches from 2025 that delivered strong design and innovation but were overshadowed by louder launches. Pieces like Ember’s Rocket, Jaeger‑LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute Geographic, and Bulgari’s Bronzo Chronograph stand out for thoughtful execution, from inventive complications to distinctive case and dial work. Other mentions include the Tudor Pelagos Ultra and Atelier Wen’s Inflection, which each bring their own mix of technical interest and refined aesthetics. The article also spotlights the Grand Seiko U.F.A., Czapek’s Time Jumper, Greubel Forsey’s Hand Made 2, and more, arguing that these “sleeper” releases collectively showcase how creative and diverse watchmaking remained in 2025.
Watching Time - Videos
Drop #260 - Top Tier Watchmaking. F.P. Journe, A. Lange & Söhne, Cartier, Laurent Ferrier & more
This video focuses on the very top end of watchmaking, featuring brands such as F.P. Journe, A. Lange & Söhne, Cartier, and Laurent Ferrier. It highlights what sets these makers apart, from movement architecture and finishing to design language and rarity. The host walks through standout references, pointing out small details that justify their status and pricing. For viewers, it doubles as both eye candy and a mini masterclass in what “top tier” really looks like in horology.
Gold Tool Watches Are A Scam. Here’s Why
This video examines the marketing behind gold tool watches and argues that many of them are effectively scams. It explains how glossy branding and status-driven messaging can disguise mediocre craftsmanship and inflated pricing. The host breaks down common red flags, from vague material claims to exaggerated “investment” language. Viewers are encouraged to question the narrative and do their own research before buying into the hype.
💔 He Did the Unthinkable: Chris Sold His Rolex Daytona —] Pull The Crown
This episode follows Chris as he decides to sell his Rolex Daytona, unpacking the emotional and financial stakes behind letting go of a grail watch. The story looks at how personal milestones, changing priorities, and market realities can push collectors to make tough choices. It also touches on how the pre-owned luxury market frames these decisions, from potential gains to missed opportunities. Through Chris’s experience, the video explores what we really value in watches beyond price and prestige.
The Man Behind Hublot’s Craziest Watches | Wei Koh with Mathias Buttet
Wei Koh sits down with Mathias Buttet to explore the thinking behind Hublot’s boldest and most experimental creations. The conversation dives into how unconventional materials, daring case designs, and complex mechanisms come together at the brand. Buttet explains the technical and creative challenges of pushing past traditional boundaries in Swiss watchmaking. The result is a deeper look at how Hublot balances spectacle, innovation, and functional horology.
Ready To Race? The New Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph H Models are full of Vintage Racing Spirit.
This video showcases the new Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph H models and how they channel classic racing watches from the 1960s and 1970s. It walks through the key design cues, from dial colors and tachymeter scales to case proportions and strap choices that evoke motorsport heritage. The host also explains the appeal of the hand-wound chronograph movement for enthusiasts who enjoy a more tactile connection with their watch. Together, the details paint a picture of pieces that feel authentically vintage while remaining modern and wearable.
Fratello Talks: What The First Watch Releases Of 2026 Reveal About The Year Ahead
In this episode, the Fratello team discusses the first wave of 2026 watch releases and what they signal for the rest of the year. They highlight early themes in design, materials, and pricing, and how different brands are positioning themselves. The conversation also touches on how collectors are responding to these launches and where demand seems to be shifting. Overall, the video serves as an early barometer of trends that could define the 2026 watch landscape.
Changing my Watch Collection in 2026
This video documents a planned overhaul of a personal watch collection in 2026, reflecting a shift in tastes and priorities. The presenter looks back at pieces that no longer fit their style or collecting goals and explains why they are on the chopping block. New targets are introduced, showing how trends, lifestyle changes, and deeper knowledge of the hobby shape fresh directions. It invites viewers to think critically about their own collections and how they evolve over time.
ON TIME | Don’t Trade Your Watches! | Roman Sharf Explains the Dealer Trick Watch Collectors Miss
Roman Sharf breaks down common dealer strategies that can leave collectors worse off when they trade rather than sell watches outright. He explains how trade-in values, margins, and framing can obscure the true economics of a deal. The video urges viewers to understand market prices and to be wary of seemingly convenient “upgrade” offers. By demystifying these tactics, it aims to help collectors protect both their watches and their wallets.
Four Married Men (For Now) Episode 5: £15k Watch Budget Challenge
In this episode, four friends tackle a £15,000 budget challenge to choose a dream watch, revealing very different tastes and priorities. The format mixes watch talk with relationship dynamics and humor, making the horology discussion more accessible and entertaining. Viewers see how each participant justifies their pick, weighing factors like brand cachet, design, and long-term value. The challenge becomes a window into how personality and lifestyle drive luxury buying decisions.
Talking Time - Podcasts
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2023 Czapek & Cie Quai Des Bergues “Blue Aurora” L.E. 42.5MM Blue Dial Leather Strap (Blue Aurora) - was bid to $14,400 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2025 Ressence Type 7 “Aquamarine” 41MM Green Dial Titanium Bracelet (Type 7 XV)
Auction Report: “Floating Time, Fifteen Years On: The Ressence Type 7 XV ‘Aquamarine’”
If you like your independent watchmaking with equal parts engineering bravado and “how is that even possible?” theater, the Ressence Type 7 XV “Aquamarine” is one of the cleaner answers. This is the brand’s modern sport-chic expression of its signature oil-filled display, where the indications appear to float right up against the crystal for an almost screen-like legibility. The Type 7 platform also brings a true daily-wear brief—41mm Grade 5 titanium, 50 meters of water resistance, and an integrated titanium bracelet with a micro-adjustable clasp—importantly, the first time Ressence paired its concept with an integrated metal bracelet.
The specific watch in this auction is the XV Aquamarine edition, created to mark Ressence’s 15th anniversary and produced as a limited run (80 pieces are widely reported for the Aquamarine). Under the hood, the Type 7 uses a customized base movement with Ressence’s ROCS 7 display module, and the “no crown” philosophy remains intact: winding and setting are performed via the caseback, with magnetic transmission between the movement chamber and the oil-filled display chamber. The brand also builds in a compensating bellows system to manage oil expansion and contraction—an unglamorous detail that is, in practice, a major part of why the whole floating-dial illusion can be worn like a normal watch.
Your seller’s condition notes are exactly what you want to hear for a modern limited independent: “new,” protective stickers still on the bracelet, and a full presentation set (inner/outer boxes, extras, papers—albeit undated). That last detail is not uncommon, but it does matter at resale: dated papers can help in the inevitable “when was it originally sold?” conversation, particularly if you ever move it along. Still, a new, stickered, full-set Type 7 XV is the market’s preferred configuration.
On value, you have a rare gift in today’s watch market: an easily anchored MSRP. Ressence lists the Type 7 XV Aquamarine at €47,700. In the U.S., authorized retail pricing appears around the mid-$40Ks—for example, Tourneau/Bucherer lists it at $45,200. Published guide pricing has also been shown around $44,300. On the secondary market, pricing can swing sharply based on completeness and condition; for context, a Chrono24 listing around the mid-$30Ks exists for an example described as used and lacking original box/papers—exactly the kind of discount you would expect when the set is incomplete.
So where does that put a fair bid? With your watch described as new, stickered, and full set, a “clean” outcome typically clusters near U.S. retail/guide levels rather than the discounted incomplete used comps. In practical terms, if the auction is tracking toward the low-to-mid $40Ks before buyer’s fees, it is broadly consistent with observable retail/guide anchoring. If it pushes meaningfully above U.S. retail equivalents, you are paying a scarcity premium for the 15th-anniversary limited run—sometimes rational if you want this colorway and this reference, but it should be a conscious choice rather than momentum.
Your closing time is Friday, January 16, 2026 at 11:00 pm (local time as stated). With a watch like this, the only real “mistake” is confusing novelty with liquidity: Ressence has real collector credibility, but it is still an independent niche with a thinner buyer pool than the usual steel sports suspects. If you win it at a sensible discount to MSRP, you’re buying the engineering and the experience with downside protection; if you win it at a premium, you’re buying emotional certainty—and you should assume you may need time and the right buyer to get that premium back.
If you want the simplest bidding discipline: treat U.S. retail/guide as your gravity, let “new/full set” justify being near the top of that band, and let “limited XV Aquamarine” justify only a small premium—unless this is a personal keep-forever piece, in which case you are allowed to stop pretending this is a spreadsheet and enjoy your floating green dial.
Current bid: $15,000
Exceptional market round-up today, especially the Ressence analysis. The Aquamarine's floating dial tech is geniunely impressive engineering but your point about liquidity versus novelty is spot-on. I've followed independant watchmakers for years and Ressence walks that line better than most—real substance behind the spectacle. That discipline around treating US retail as gravity for bidding makes total sense given how thin the secondary market is for this type of piece.