BuyingTime Daily - January 15, 2026
UK watch sales slump late in 2025, plus wild new drops from Jacob & Co., Seiko and Gérald Charles—Speedmaster video binge and a Czapek “Blue Aurora” auction watch.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
The post-holiday hangover was not just a feeling in 2025—it showed up in the numbers. The UK watch market slid 10.2% in Q4, effectively erasing the early-year momentum and leaving full-year sales almost flat at -0.4%. The takeaway is less about watches and more about psychology: jittery macro messaging and a poorly timed government budget (landing awkwardly close to Black Friday) can chill luxury demand faster than any “waitlist” ever could. Even Watches of Switzerland Group, despite continuing to expand, only managed marginal growth—an unflattering reminder that store count is not the same thing as confidence.
At the other end of the spectrum, Jacob & Co. reminded everyone that the ultra-high-end doesn’t do subtle. The new God of Time leans fully into theatrical horology with a four-second tourbillon (the “world’s fastest,” per the pitch), a 44.5mm column-inspired case, and a rose-gold Chronos figure anchoring the show. It’s the kind of watch that treats legibility as optional, then sends you the invoice anyway: $360,000, limited to 60 pieces, backed by a movement engineered to keep that tourbillon spinning on a still-serious 60-hour reserve.
Sport and culture also kept their grip on the narrative. Tudor is returning to the America’s Cup conversation as title sponsor of TUDOR Team Alinghi for the 38th edition in Napoli in summer 2027, doubling down on its “Born to Dare” positioning and the engineering-meets-adrenaline vibe that sailing does so well. Meanwhile, the week’s deep dive into the Full Metal G-Shock story tracked Casio’s evolution from the 1983 DW-5000C toughness mythos to today’s metal-cased, Bluetooth-enabled classics, proving that “indestructible” can, apparently, also be premium.
On the education-and-collector-bait front, the perpetual calendar explainer landed the core point: it’s a memory machine made of gears and cams, designed to keep month lengths and leap years straight for decades—provided you don’t get clever with the setting. That dovetailed nicely with the looming anniversary question of 2026: what does Patek Philippe do with the Patek Philippe Nautilus turning 50 without reigniting maximum speculation? The smartest angle in that piece was the suggestion that the brand may try to reset the narrative rather than simply feed the hype machine with an “easy” steel anniversary reference.
New watches and reviewed watches did the heavy lifting across the middle of the issue. Gérald Charles dropped the Maestro 2.0 Meteorite Editions—two 39mm × 41mm versions with Muonionalusta meteorite dials, sporty straps, and a Vaucher-made automatic caliber—limited to 100 pieces per colorway. Independent Atelier made a culturally rich statement with Project Tai Yu, a faithful tribute to Kiu Tai Yu’s Millennium design in 18k yellow gold, limited to 25 pieces, and priced around $37,800 after conversion. RGM teamed with Teddy Baldassarre for the RGM 501: a 39mm steel watch with a micro-rotor movement, an 86-hour reserve, and hand-cut guilloché that signals “serious finishing” without shouting about it. Seiko went broad and celebratory with four limited editions for the brand’s 145th anniversary, spanning King Seiko, Prospex, Presage, and Astron, all slated for February 2026 release. On the review side, Hazemann & Monnin impressed with the Montre École Souscription—regulator layout, jumping hour, hour-strike, and a genuinely ambitious “made in-house” storyline for a young duo—while Vaer delivered pragmatic ruggedness with the C4 Tactical: solar quartz, 200m water resistance, and a restrained military tool-watch aesthetic that avoids cosplay.
The broader style conversation continued to blur the line between “watch” and “jewelry,” with Chanel, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Dior, Bvlgari, Louis Vuitton, Piaget, and others treating cases and bracelets as wearable sculpture first and timekeepers second. And in industry-culture news, longtime journalist Roberta Naas marked 40 years in the trade at an event hosted by Wempe, a milestone that quietly underlines how much the category’s media ecosystem—and who gets to be in it—has changed.
The “videos to watch” section is basically an Omega Speedmaster mini-festival: multiple hands-ons and hot takes on new panda and reverse-panda Moonwatch variants, plus a “hidden detail” breakdown and a value-skeptical critique for anyone trying to decide between the new release and the standard model. Add a review of the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Glacier for a heritage-tool-watch palate cleanser, and a behind-the-scenes “I designed a watch” collaboration video that’s catnip for anyone who likes process as much as product. On the audio side, the Business of Watches podcast featuring Montblanc timepieces head Laurent Lecamp kept the business/heritage mix front and center, with Minerva, hairsprings, and brand strategy all getting airtime.
Finally, the auction report put a clean spotlight on scarcity with the Czapek & Cie Quai des Bergues “Blue Aurora,” one of just 10 pieces, offered as unworn with box and papers dated January 27, 2023. With bidding at $10,400 and a close on Thursday, January 15, 2026 at 11:04 p.m. ET, the logic is straightforward: decide what you’ll pay for the combination of dial craft, movement architecture, and near-impossible replacement risk, then bid late with conviction—because “rare” is only fun until you realize you can’t just go buy another one next week.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
Christmas slump reverses early gains for watch sales in 2025
The UK watch market saw a sharp 10.2% decline in sales during the fourth quarter of 2025, wiping out gains that had been built in the first nine months of the year. Uncertainty and poor communication around the government’s autumn budget, especially its timing near Black Friday, undermined consumer confidence at a crucial point in the retail calendar. Although the year began with promising 6.6% growth in Q1, full-year sales ultimately ended nearly flat at -0.4%, reflecting a fragile environment. Major players such as Watches of Switzerland Group reported only marginal growth despite aggressive expansion, illustrating how macroeconomic messaging can quickly reshape luxury demand.
Jacob & Co.’s God of Time is the World’s Fastest Tourbillon
Jacob & Co.’s God of Time is a statement piece built around the world’s fastest tourbillon, which completes a full rotation every four seconds. Housed in a 44.5 mm case modeled after an Ionic column, the watch features an 18k rose gold figure of Chronos and a highly architectural display that prioritizes spectacle over legibility. The JCAM60 movement uses four mainsprings to feed the tourbillon’s immense energy needs while still delivering a 60-hour power reserve and employing a conventional Swiss lever escapement. Priced at $360,000 and limited to 60 pieces, it positions itself as a technical and aesthetic showpiece in the ultra-high-end segment.
Tudor Returns as TUDOR Team Alinghi for the 38th America’s Cup
Tudor has renewed its alliance with Alinghi as title sponsor for the 38th America’s Cup, to be held in Napoli in summer 2027. The partnership pairs Tudor’s “Born to Dare” ethos with Alinghi’s history of innovation and risk-taking in high-performance sailing, building on earlier Cup victories in 2003 and 2007. As TUDOR Team Alinghi prepares to compete against nations with deep maritime traditions, the focus is on cutting-edge engineering, materials, and racecraft underpinned by rigorous preparation. The collaboration reinforces Tudor’s positioning in elite sport while extending Switzerland’s legacy in one of sailing’s most technologically demanding arenas.
Feature Time
Close-Up with the G-Shock Full Metal Collection
The G-Shock Full Metal Collection traces the brand’s path from Kikuo Ibe’s unbreakable DW-5000C in 1983 to today’s fully metal, feature-rich models. Early adoption by surfers and skaters pushed Casio to expand beyond resin into metal cases, opening up new textures, finishes, and a more premium feel while preserving signature toughness. Modern references like the GMW-B5000 retain the classic silhouette but add Bluetooth connectivity and advanced digital functionality. Limited editions in gold and titanium celebrate G-Shock’s 40-year legacy and signal an ongoing commitment to technical innovation and bold design.
What Is a Watch with a Perpetual Calendar?
A perpetual calendar watch is a highly complex mechanical timepiece that automatically accounts for different month lengths, leap years, and often moon phases, requiring no manual correction for decades. The idea dates back to Thomas Mudge’s 18th-century pocket watch and evolved into landmark wristwatches like Patek Philippe’s Reference 97975. Inside, a network of gears and cams “remembers” the calendar, making careful setting and handling critical to avoid damaging the mechanism. Collectors prize these watches for their rarity, engineering ingenuity, and the almost philosophical appeal of a machine capable of accurately tracking time long beyond its owner’s lifetime.
The Patek Philippe Nautilus Turns 50 This Year — What Can We Expect?
As the Patek Philippe Nautilus approaches its 50th anniversary in 2026, the brand faces a delicate balancing act between honoring an icon and avoiding another wave of speculative hype. The discontinuation of the steel ref. 5711 left a vacuum in the lineup and fueled dramatic price spikes on the secondary market. Patek could mark the milestone with a new steel reference or movement, yet any accessible “basic” Nautilus risks triggering overwhelming demand and distorted pricing. There is also the possibility that the brand sidesteps expectations entirely, using the anniversary to reset the narrative around the Nautilus and its place in Patek’s long-term strategy.
Roberta Naas Celebrates 40 Years As Woman Watch Editor In A Man’s World
Roberta Naas marked 40 years as a watch journalist at an event hosted by Wempe New York, surrounded by longtime colleagues and industry friends. She reflected on entering the field as America’s first woman watch editor and the barriers she encountered in a male-dominated environment, emphasizing how perseverance and honest reporting shaped her career. The celebration underscored both how much the watch world has evolved and how central storytelling remains to its culture. Rather than a conclusion, Naas framed the milestone as a source of fresh motivation, hinting at new projects while reaffirming her commitment to clarity, integrity, and championing diverse voices in horology.
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9 fine jewellery watches blurring craft boundaries
The world of high-end watches is increasingly converging with fine jewelry, producing timepieces that function as both horological instruments and sculptural adornments. Designs like Chanel’s Première Ribbon and Cartier’s Tressage emphasize rich materials, tactile straps, and sculpted cases that elevate the watch from accessory to art object. Fashion houses including Ferragamo, Van Cleef & Arpels, Dior, Bvlgari, Louis Vuitton, and Piaget are pushing this crossover further, blending vintage inspiration, precious metals, and gemstones with modern movements. Together, these pieces redefine what a luxury watch can be, appealing equally to jewelry collectors and watch enthusiasts.
Opinion
It’s time for Blancpain to bring back the water-resistant minute repeater
This opinion piece argues that Blancpain should revive its water‑resistant minute repeater watches, a line that was groundbreaking in the late 1990s and early 2000s. Models like the Léman Répétition Minutes ref. 2135 (30m) and the Léman Aqua Lung Minute Repeater ref. 2835 (100m) proved that serious chiming complications could be worn in real‑world, even aquatic, conditions. The author notes how these pieces cleverly preserved delicate mechanisms while adding genuine practicality, aligning with today’s trend of putting high complications into sportier, more versatile designs. A modern iteration could fuse Blancpain’s dive‑watch heritage with haute horlogerie, potentially drawing a new generation of collectors to the brand.
The Latest Time
Gerald Charles
Gérald Charles Maestro 2.0 Meteorite Editions
Gérald Charles’ Maestro 2.0 Meteorite Editions pair the brand’s sculptural 39mm × 41mm case with dials cut from 4.5-billion-year-old Muonionalusta meteorite. A Darkblast steel “Black” version and a polished steel “Silver” version each feature applied Roman numerals and a star-shaped small seconds at 6 o’clock, powered by the Vaucher-made GCA2011 automatic calibre with a 50-hour power reserve. Both models are delivered on color-matched rubber and Velcro straps to underline their sporty-elegant character. Limited to 100 pieces per version, the silver model is priced at about $24,500 and the black model at about $25,700 after conversion to USD.
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Independent Atelier
Independent Atelier debuts Project Tai Yu
This edition of Project Tai Yu recreates Kiu Tai Yu’s original Millennium watch as a faithful tribute to the pioneering Chinese independent watchmaker. The 35mm 18k yellow gold case features engraved, red-lacquer-filled lugs and a knurled crown, framing a dial that blends black porcelain enamel with cutouts for the balance and an off-center time display. Chinese characters and symbolic inscriptions underscore the cultural storytelling behind the piece, while the automatic IATY-01 calibre refines Tai Yu’s architecture with modern upgrades to the escapement and shock protection. Limited to 25 pieces, the watch is priced at about $37,800 after converting the CHF 30,500 list price to USD.
Project Tai Yu By Independent Atelier - Read More >
RGM
The RGM 501 Teddy Baldassarre Edition
The RGM 501 Teddy Baldassarre Edition is a 39mm steel watch that combines a stepped bezel, oversized crown, and box-style sapphire crystal with a sapphire exhibition back to highlight its micro-rotor movement. Inside is the Swiss RGM–Schwarz Etienne ASE 200 calibre, offering an 86-hour power reserve and contemporary finishing. The blue dial is decorated with two different hand-cut guilloché patterns, framed by black Breguet numerals and silver hands for a refined but modern look. Delivered on a 20mm Jean Rousseau leather strap and water resistant to 50 meters, it is priced at $13,900.
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Seiko
Four New Seiko Limited Editions To Celebrate The Brand’s 145th Anniversary
Seiko’s 145th anniversary is marked by four limited editions that spotlight key parts of the brand’s history and technical range. The King Seiko KS1969, with its slim case, gradient dial, and gold accents, houses the Caliber 6L35 and is priced at $3,100, while the Prospex Speedtimer chronograph, with vintage-inspired styling, retails for $2,500. A Presage model nods to Seiko’s earliest watchmaking with a classic dress design at $1,900, and the Astron Chronograph tops the range at $3,300, adding solar charging and radio-controlled precision in the largest case of the quartet. All four are limited and scheduled for release in February 2026, offering collectors anniversary pieces that blend heritage cues with contemporary engineering.
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Wearing Time - Reviews
Hazemann & Monnin
The Montre École Souscription by Young Indie Duo Hazemann & Monnin
The Montre École Souscription from Hazemann & Monnin highlights the inventive spirit emerging from the Lycée Edgar Faure, blending a regulator-style layout with an instantaneous jumping hour and hour-strike mechanism. Almost entirely crafted in-house, the watch combines traditional hand-finishing with modern methods, resulting in an openworked design that proudly exposes its complications. Two versions, each limited to ten pieces, split the focus between the Hazemann variant’s technical emphasis and the Monnin variant’s artistic malachite and opal sub-dials. Both sit in a 39.5mm × 10.9mm steel case, signaling a highly accomplished debut for the young duo and suggesting an ambitious roadmap of future complications and designs.
Vaer
The Vaer C4 Tactical Is The Brand’s Most Rugged Tool Watch
The Vaer C4 Tactical is a purpose-built tool watch inspired by military field pieces like the Benrus Type I and II, with a distinctive C-shaped case, matte black DLC coating, and a multi-purpose bezel for timing. Built from 316L stainless steel with a flat sapphire crystal and 200 meters of water resistance, it is designed to handle both field use and underwater duty. The highly legible dial relies on large Arabic numerals and generous C3 Super‑LumiNova for low-light performance, while a solar-powered Seiko/Epson VS42 quartz movement delivers long-running accuracy with up to six months of power reserve in the dark. Offered on both FKM rubber and NATO-style straps, the C4 maintains a low-key tactical aesthetic and avoids the exaggerated “mall ninja” look often associated with military-styled watches.
Comparing Time
Vibe Shift: Are These Four Limited Editions From 2025 a Peek into Our Future?
This comparison looks at four limited editions from Beda’a, Simon Brette, Richard Mille, and Girard‑Perregaux to explore how color, materials, and form might shape the next phase of watch design. Beda’a’s Eclipse Qatar Edition uses minimalist styling and maroon accents to echo the Qatari flag, while Richard Mille’s RM 17‑02 leans into ultra‑light, technical construction in titanium and ceramic. Simon Brette’s Chronomètre Artisans stands out with an iridescent ALD-coated case that shifts color, blurring the line between engineering and art. Girard‑Perregaux’s Neo Constant Escapement ties things together with a high-tech movement and composite casework, illustrating how traditional haute horlogerie is embracing future-facing aesthetics and materials.
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Nostalgic Retro Digital Watches We Reviewed and Loved
This roundup revisits a group of retro digital watches that have earned enduring affection for their reliability and everyday practicality. Classics like the Casio F‑91W and A168WA are praised for being lightweight, accurate, and easy to read, pairing long battery life with unmistakable ’80s styling. More feature-rich pieces such as the Timex Expedition Atlantis and Casio Wave Ceptor add robust water resistance and atomic timekeeping, while higher-end options like the Bulova Computron and Citizen Ana‑Digi Temp bring bolder designs and extra functions like temperature and dual time. Together, they show how these nostalgic digitals remain relevant as charming, functional “grab‑and‑go” watches for modern wearers.
Recapping 2025
The three watches Russell wore most in 2025 are
Russell’s 2025 watch rotation shifted after becoming a first-time homeowner, leading him to part with his Tudor Submariner and lean more on modern, versatile pieces. The Christopher Ward The Twelve 660, in a black-on-black configuration, emerged as a go-to for its blend of sleek design, everyday practicality, and its subtle nod to his British roots. The Baltic x Time+Tide Hermètique Night Mode became his rugged daily companion, prized for its high-contrast dial, legibility, and durability in more demanding situations. For dressier occasions, the vintage Universal Genève Gilt Shadow remained a staple, with its 1970s integrated-bracelet design and elegant oval case carrying him through industry events and festive gatherings alike.
Watching Time - Videos
The NEW Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch REVERSE PANDA! Full Hands-On Review!
This video takes a close look at the new Reverse Panda iteration of the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch, emphasizing how the high-contrast dial refreshes a classic design. It walks through the case, dial, and bracelet details, explaining how the inverted color scheme changes legibility and wrist presence compared to standard versions. The review also touches on the movement and overall build quality, framing the watch as both a modern daily wearer and a continuation of the Moonwatch’s space heritage. Viewers get a practical sense of how the Reverse Panda feels and functions in real-world use.
2026 NEW Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Panda Dial
This video introduces the 2026 Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with a new panda dial that blends vintage chronograph cues with contemporary finishing. The presentation explains how the crisp black‑on‑white layout respects the original Moonwatch aesthetic while lending a bolder, more graphic look on the wrist. It covers the core specifications and design choices, placing the watch within Omega’s broader Speedmaster timeline. The piece sets expectations for the official release and positions the new panda dial as a must‑see for Speedmaster fans in 2026.
New Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional: A hot reverse panda lacquer dial to kick off 2026
Here the focus is on a lacquered reverse panda dial variant of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional that headlines Omega’s 2026 offerings. The video details the gloss, depth, and contrast of the dial, showing how the lacquer finish and color blocking elevate an already iconic design. It also revisits the Speedmaster’s history, connecting this new reference back to the line’s space‑age roots and longstanding collector appeal. The result is a portrait of a watch that is meant to excite both established Speedy owners and newcomers at the start of the new year.
The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Glacier - Review
This review examines the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Glacier, focusing on how it modernizes a vintage‑inspired tool‑watch template. The video explores case size, dial texture, and lume performance, showing how the “Glacier” theme is expressed through color and finishing. It also discusses the movement and everyday wearability, positioning the watch as a capable daily piece with strong enthusiast credentials. Overall, the Antarctic Glacier is presented as a compelling option for those who enjoy heritage design with contemporary reliability.
NEW Omega Speedmaster Panda Dial - HIDDEN DETAIL!
This video dives into the Omega Speedmaster Panda Dial with an emphasis on subtle design choices that might be missed at first glance. It calls out small dial and case touches—like printing, finishing, and layout decisions—that set this reference apart within the broader Speedmaster family. The presenter explains why these nuances matter in terms of legibility, visual balance, and long‑term appeal. By the end, viewers come away with a deeper appreciation of the “hidden details” that make this panda dial more than just a color variation.
I Designed a Watch with One of America’s Greatest Watchmakers
In this video, the host documents a collaborative project to design a watch alongside a highly respected American watchmaker. The story follows the process from initial concept sketches through decisions on case shape, dial layout, and movement choice, shedding light on what it takes to bring a bespoke watch to life. Viewers see how personal taste, technical constraints, and the watchmaker’s vision interact in real time. The final result illustrates both the craft involved and the emotional payoff of creating a truly personal timepiece.
New OMEGA Speedmaster, it’s over priced and very shiny
This video offers a critical take on a new Omega Speedmaster release, arguing that its high price and flashy finishing will not appeal to everyone. The presenter walks through the design and specifications, acknowledging the watch’s visual impact while questioning whether the cost is justified within the current market. Comparisons with other Speedmasters and competing models highlight where the value proposition feels stretched. The overall tone invites viewers to think carefully about balancing brand prestige, aesthetics, and budget before committing.
Should you get the NEW Omega Speedmaster or the standard one?
This video frames the buying decision between the latest Omega Speedmaster release and the longstanding standard model. It compares design details, movement choices, and on‑wrist feel, outlining what you gain—and what you might lose—with the newer reference. Pricing, availability, and long‑term desirability are all weighed to help potential buyers clarify their priorities. In the end, the video positions the choice as a matter of whether you value cutting‑edge updates more than the timeless simplicity of the classic Speedmaster.
6 Next-Level Watches Just Hit — They’re Wild!
This video spotlights six freshly released watches that push boundaries in design and technology. Each model is presented with a quick overview of its standout traits, from unconventional case shapes and materials to advanced movements or smart features. The host emphasizes how these pieces break from traditional watchmaking while still offering real-world usability. Together, the six watches sketch out where the cutting edge of the hobby is headed, appealing to collectors who want something bold and unconventional on the wrist.
Talking Time - Podcasts
The Business of Watches Podcast: The Head Of Montblanc’s Timepieces Division Laurent Lecamp On Minerva, Hairsprings, And What’s Next For The Brand
This episode features Laurent Lecamp, head of Montblanc’s timepieces division, reflecting on Minerva’s heritage and why the manufacture still makes its own hairsprings in-house. He explains how Minerva is rethinking its relationship with its most dedicated customers, treating them less as traditional clients and more as “fans,” and why the brand chose a different path from Watches and Wonders this year within the Richemont ecosystem. The conversation explores how historical craftsmanship, technical independence, and modern brand strategy intersect for Montblanc and Minerva. Senior Editor Mark Kauzlarich also joins to unpack broader industry storylines, including potential leadership changes at TAG Heuer and the thinking behind Omega’s latest Speedmaster moves.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Wednesday’s auction watch, the 2024 Hermès H08 42MM Grey Dial Rubber Strap (W060124WW00)- was bid to $8,400 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2023 Czapek & Cie Quai Des Bergues “Blue Aurora” L.E. 42.5MM Blue Dial Leather Strap (Blue Aurora)
Auction Report: “Blue Aurora, Small Edition, Big Presence”
If you like your independents with real provenance and almost no supply, the Czapek & Cie Quai des Bergues “Blue Aurora” is one of those watches that feels less like a product and more like a sighting. This is the stainless-steel 42.5mm Quai des Bergues with the deep blue “eaux vives” guilloché dial—part of a micro-run limited to just 10 pieces worldwide, which is about as close as modern watchmaking gets to “you’re either in the room or you’re not.”
Per the seller, the watch is in like-new condition and has never been worn, with box and papers dated January 27, 2023. That date matters with a Czapek: the brand has built credibility quickly in the independent space, but collectors still pay a premium for clean, well-documented sets—especially when the production number is this small. For context, the “Blue Aurora” concept traces back to the 2020 release that paired the 42.5mm case with the hand-executed guilloché dial treatment and the signature day-of-week/power-reserve display around 4:30.
What you are really buying here is the combination of dial craft and movement architecture. The Quai des Bergues line was conceived as a contemporary nod to François Czapek’s Geneva-era work, and the in-house caliber strategy was a big part of the modern relaunch story. The SXH1 is a manually wound, twin-barrel movement developed with Chronode, built to deliver roughly a seven-day power reserve (and to make the day-of-week “fuel gauge” complication genuinely useful rather than decorative). Brand-side history also matters with Czapek: the modern company resurrected the name in the early 2010s and built momentum through an unusually community-driven funding and collector base, which is a meaningful part of why the secondary market watches this brand closely.
Value is the harder—and more interesting—part. The original retail price for the Blue Aurora/Aurora Borealis pair was widely cited around CHF 16,000 at launch. In today’s market, available-for-sale asking prices for “Blue Aurora” examples tend to sit materially higher (one current listing shows roughly the mid-$24,000 range). Meanwhile, broader Quai des Bergues auction results (not necessarily the Blue Aurora specifically) show realized prices often in the mid-to-high teens in USD, a useful reality check if you are trying to separate “rare” from “liquid.” My practical takeaway: if bidding stays in the high-teens to low-$20Ks (depending on buyer’s premium and taxes), you are in a zone where the watch looks defensible on scarcity, condition, and the quality of the guilloché/movement story. If it runs decisively past the mid-$20Ks, you are paying an “LE-10 trophy” premium—sometimes justified, but more sensitive to shifts in independent-watch sentiment.
The auction closes Thursday, January 15, 2026 at 11:04 p.m. ET. If you want to win it without overpaying, the right strategy is to decide what you are willing to pay for certainty—certainty of condition (unworn), certainty of completeness (box/papers), and certainty of rarity (10 pieces)—and then bid like you mean it late, rather than inching it up early and inviting a duel. With a watch like this, the price is rarely “wrong” on the day; the only real mistake is paying a number that assumes you’ll easily replace it later, because you probably won’t.
Current bid: $10,400
Phenomenal roundup! The point about UK watch sales psychology is dead-on, how jittery messaging can chill luxury demand faster than any waitlist ever could really captures what happened in Q4. I've noticed the same dynamic with a few collecter friends who went from ready-to-buy to wait-and-see mode literally overnight once uncertainity kicked in. That Czapek Blue Aurora auction analysis is also sharp, especially the bit about seperating "rare" from "liquid" in the independent space.