BuyingTime Daily - January 14, 2026
Zenith sale rumors swirl, Vacheron doubles down on heritage, Omega drops a bold Speedmaster, and solar, bronze, and tourbillons shape a busy start to 2026.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Today’s edition of Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe opens with a reminder that denials can sometimes be as revealing as confirmations, as ZENITH finds itself at the center of speculation inside the LVMH portfolio. While the group publicly insists the brand is not for sale, questions around profitability, positioning, and whether Zenith’s future lies more in movement supply than brand-building continue to swirl, mirroring broader pressures facing legacy maisons navigating a more jewelry-driven luxury market. Elsewhere on the heritage front, VACHERON CONSTANTIN leaned fully into its 270th anniversary celebrations by announcing a first-of-its-kind Concours d’Élégance Horlogère with PHILLIPS, inviting collectors to submit historic watches for scholarly recognition rather than commercial spectacle.
Education and access were also front and center, with the HOROLOGICAL SOCIETY OF NEW YORK dramatically expanding its 2026 financial aid program and opening applications globally, a meaningful signal for aspiring watchmakers outside traditional Swiss pipelines. On the retail side, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS made a statement with a new, brand-operated boutique at Short Hills, while pre-owned specialist BOB’S WATCHES took resale into high-traffic territory by opening a walk-up shop inside JFK’s Terminal 8, underscoring how airports are becoming serious luxury retail venues. Across the Atlantic, CHRONOSWISS marked its return to the UK with a Bond Street partnership, and in a more unexpected revival, historic Dutch bell maker VAN BERGEN reemerged as a chiming wristwatch brand, promising the largest gong ever installed in a wristwatch.
Feature coverage stayed heavy on VACHERON CONSTANTIN, with a deep dive into the brand’s strongest releases of 2025 and a closer look at the structure and intent behind its upcoming Concours, while independent newcomer ONTIC made a compelling case for solar-powered pragmatism with its Utility 40, a watch designed to be used rather than fussed over. The editorial spotlight shifted to TUDOR, which turns 100 this year and faces the challenge of sustaining its hard-earned credibility without leaning too hard on anniversary theatrics.
New and notable watches rounded out the issue, from OMEGA’s striking black-and-white Speedmaster Moonwatch variants to ORIS reviving its Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye,” YEMA flexing technical muscle with a bronze Skin Diver powered by its micro-rotor CMM.20, and LEBOND offering a Gaudí-inspired design homage that blends architecture and horology. Reviews went upmarket with GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL’s PanoMaticCalendar “Blue of Dawn” in platinum and TITAN making a statement with its Nebula Jalsa Tourbillon, a hand-painted, Jaipur-inspired halo piece.
On the video front, the Tuesday delivered plenty to watch, from JACOB & CO.’s ultra-fast Chronos tourbillon and multiple hands-on looks at the new OMEGA Speedmaster Reverse Panda, to broader market Q&A sessions, launch interviews, and community-driven commentary that keeps the conversation lively. The auction report zeroed in on a two-tone HERMÈS H08 that continues to defy easy categorization, blending genuine design credibility with under-the-radar luxury appeal as it heads toward tonight’s close.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
LVMH Denies Zenith Sale—But the Real Story Runs Deeper
LVMH has publicly denied rumors that it plans to sell Zenith, the historic watch brand best known for its El Primero chronograph. Behind the denial, however, are concerns about Zenith’s reported financial losses, softening sales, and strategic missteps under changing leadership. Observers note that LVMH’s recent investment in another Swiss movement maker could signal a shift toward using Zenith more as a movement supplier than a standalone powerhouse brand. The situation raises broader questions about how traditional watch maisons like Zenith and TAG Heuer can adapt within conglomerate portfolios as the luxury market increasingly favors hybrid jewelry-watch concepts.
Vacheron Constantin Launches First-Ever Concours d’Élégance Horlogère in Partnership with Phillips
Vacheron Constantin is launching the first Concours d’Élégance Horlogère, a global competition dedicated to historic pocket and wristwatches produced between 1755 and 1999. Collectors worldwide are invited to submit pieces that will be judged across nine criteria including authenticity, elegance, and technical achievement, with registration open from January 19 to April 30, 2026. Prizes will be awarded on November 10, 2026, in Geneva, emphasizing recognition and heritage rather than commercial gain. The initiative deepens Vacheron Constantin’s engagement with collectors while celebrating 270 years of watchmaking history.
The Horological Society of New York Announces 2026 Global Financial Aid Opportunities for Watchmaking Students
The Horological Society of New York is dramatically expanding its financial aid program for 2026, tripling its scholarship budget with support from the Vogt Foundation. For the first time, applications are open globally, giving aspiring watchmakers around the world access to ten distinct scholarships, including a new Independent Watchmaker Grant designed to help fund tools and startup costs. HSNY’s expanded portfolio also targets veterans and underrepresented communities, building on last year’s record $160,000 in awards to students and schools. Applications are open from January 1 to March 1, with winners announced in March and full details available on HSNY’s website.
Van Cleef & Arpels opens boutique in The Mall at Short Hills
Van Cleef & Arpels has opened a new 3,000-square-foot boutique at The Mall at Short Hills in New Jersey, replacing its prior representation through London Jewelers with a directly operated store. Located in an affluent suburb just outside Manhattan, the space joins other top luxury names and is designed to immerse visitors in the brand’s jewelry and watchmaking artistry. The interior features black hardwood floors, a gold-leaf ceiling, and a dramatic two-tier Veronese chandelier, anchored by a private Poetic Salon with a hidden library motif. Van Cleef & Arpels positions the boutique as a destination for in-depth client consultations and an elevated, highly curated brand experience.
Pre-owned Rolex trader Bob’s Watches opens in JFK airport
Bob’s Watches has opened its first walk-up airport boutique in Terminal 8 at New York’s JFK International Airport, serving travelers on American Airlines and British Airways. The store offers authenticated, investment-grade pre-owned watches—primarily Rolex—in a duty-free environment that caters to time-pressed international travelers. CEO Paul Altieri frames the move as an evolution in luxury resale, bringing transparency and expert-vetted inventory into a high-traffic, on-the-go retail setting. The boutique underscores how airports are becoming key venues for luxury and pre-owned shopping, blending convenience with high-value purchasing.
Chronoswiss seals return to UK market
Chronoswiss has re-entered the UK market through a new partnership with Swiss Gallery on Bond Street, restoring direct access for British collectors. The collaboration places the brand in a flagship-level environment that reflects both its mechanical heritage and its contemporary design language. Monica Porracin of The Blue Company highlights the UK as a critical market and underscores Chronoswiss’s mission to champion traditional mechanical watchmaking. The move signals renewed investment in one of Europe’s most important luxury hubs and gives collectors a dedicated venue to experience the brand’s collections.
Church bell business revived as a modern chiming watchmaker
Van Bergen, a historic Dutch maker of church bells and carillon towers founded in 1795, is being reborn as a chiming wristwatch manufacturer. Under entrepreneur Erik Miejer, the revived brand will debut the Heero collection at Top Marques Monaco in May 2026, with 230 watches honoring each year of its history plus 50 special pieces for the show. The watches will house the largest gong ever installed in a wristwatch, housed in 41mm titanium cases and priced at €29,000. Miejer plans to distribute Van Bergen globally, targeting key markets such as the United States, the Middle East, and Asia through a network of specialist partners.
Feature Time
Best Vacheron Constantin watches of 2025
In its 270th anniversary year, Vacheron Constantin highlighted a spectrum of creations that balanced deep heritage with high innovation. Pieces like the steel Historiques 222 and ultra-thin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar underscored the maison’s refinement in classic and elegant watchmaking. At the other extreme, super-complicated works such as the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication and Cosmica Duo pushed technical limits with dozens of complications and celestial indications. The Overseas Grand Complication Openface and Temporis Duo further showed how complex mechanics can be integrated into contemporary, design-forward cases.
“It’s a watch that just gets on with the job” – Ontic founder on debut collection
Ontic’s debut Utility 40 is a solar-powered titanium tool watch built around reliability rather than luxury theater. Created by former Mountain Rescue volunteer John Hickling, it is designed to be light, durable, and low-maintenance so owners do not have to worry about delicate mechanics or frequent servicing. The Swiss-made Ronda Solartech 215 movement can run up to eight months in the dark after charging from natural or artificial light, while the dial, indices, and crystal are optimized for legibility in real-world conditions. Multiple sub-series target everyday wear, diving, and a Mountain Rescue tribute edition, with part of the proceeds supporting rescue organizations.
Inside Vacheron Constantin’s Concours d’Élégance Horlogère Competition
Vacheron Constantin is launching a global Concours d’Élégance Horlogère that invites collectors to enter pocket and wristwatches made between 1755 and 1999. Run in partnership with Phillips and Bacs & Russo, the competition focuses on mechanical watches that have not been heavily modified, judged across seven categories such as chiming mechanisms, chronographs, and highly complicated pieces. Entries will be evaluated on nine criteria, including authenticity, elegance, rarity, and technical achievement, by a panel of specialists in horological history and design. Submissions open January 19 and close April 30, with winners to be revealed during the November auction season in Geneva.
Editorial Time
Editorial: Tudor at 100
Tudor is marking its 100th anniversary, a milestone that comes after a decade-long transformation from “Rolex’s junior brand” into a serious force in the sports watch market. Rather than leaning into loud commemorative releases, the brand appears poised to acknowledge the centennial more subtly while continuing to build on the success of lines like the Black Bay and Pelagos. Its rise has made Tudor a realistic aspirational choice, resonating with both hardcore enthusiasts and newer collectors who want robust, design-forward tool watches. At the same time, recent price increases and market positioning present challenges the brand must manage carefully if it wants to sustain its momentum into its second century.
The Latest Time
Lebond
Lebond Attraction - hommage to Antoni Gaudi
Lebond’s Attraction watch pays tribute to Antoni Gaudí’s unbuilt Hotel Attraction project for New York, translating his architectural sketches into a central disc motif and sculptural case design. Crafted from sandblasted Grade 5 titanium, it wears light on the wrist and comes in brushed silver or brushed anthracite dial versions, presented in a wooden exhibition case modeled on the proportions of Gaudí’s imagined skyscraper. The watch is powered by the ETA 2892-A2 automatic movement, visible through a sapphire case back printed with a plan of the hotel. Retailing at about EUR 2,400 (approximately US$2,800), it ties Gaudí’s centenary to a piece of contemporary horological design.
Omega
The new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch in Black and White
Omega has introduced new Speedmaster Moonwatch models with black-and-white reverse panda dials in stainless steel and 18k Moonshine Gold, retaining the classic 42mm asymmetrical case and tachymeter bezel. The polished black dial with white sub-dials and white enamel scale on a black ceramic bezel delivers a sharp, high-contrast look that balances vintage cues with modern execution. Inside is the calibre 3861, a Master Chronometer-certified, anti-magnetic movement with around 50 hours of power reserve. Pricing is set at EUR 10,200 (about US$11,800) for steel and EUR 48,600 (about US$56,700) for the Moonshine Gold edition, firmly positioning these pieces in the upper tier of contemporary Speedmasters.
Oris
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Bullseye
The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye” revives a historic pilot’s design from 1938 in a 38mm stainless-steel case with an oversized fluted crown for easy handling. Its distinctive sector “bullseye” dial uses concentric rings and a red-tipped pointer date hand to enhance legibility, paired with cathedral hands filled with Super-LumiNova under a domed sapphire crystal. The watch runs on the automatic Oris calibre 754, a modified Sellita SW200, with 38 hours of power reserve and comes on a sustainable deer leather strap. Retailing at CHF 1,950 (approximately US$2,440), it targets enthusiasts who want a compact, characterful daily-wear pilot’s watch.
Oris Introduces The Stylish Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye” - Read More >
Yema
Yema Skin Diver Slim Bronze CMM.20 Limited Edition
The Yema Skin Diver Slim Bronze CMM.20 Limited Edition channels the brand’s mid-century dive heritage with a 39mm bronze case, “faded ghost” sapphire bezel, and a dark grey enamel-like dial that recalls well-aged tool watches. Inside is the in-house micro-rotor calibre Manufacture Morteau 20, delivering a 70-hour power reserve and 300 meters of water resistance, signaling serious technical ambition. Limited to 200 pieces, the watch comes on an FKM Viton rubber strap with a bronze pin buckle that will patinate along with the case. Priced at EUR 2,249 (approximately US$2,624), it aims squarely at enthusiasts who value both distinctive aesthetics and independent French watchmaking.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Glashütte Original
Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar “Blue of Dawn”
The Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar “Blue of Dawn” is a limited edition that showcases the brand’s signature craftsmanship and asymmetrical design language. Its 42mm platinum case frames a skeletonized blue dial that reveals the Calibre 92-11 movement, complete with annual calendar, Panorama Date, and retrograde month display that needs adjusting only once a year on March 1. Inspired by the early-morning light seen by Glashütte’s watchmakers, the dial ties the mechanical complexity to a strong narrative about the craft. With an added moonphase, 50 meters of water resistance, and a choice of blue alligator leather or fabric strap with platinum clasp, it is limited to 150 pieces and positioned as a high-end collector’s piece.
Titan Watches
Titan Nebula Jalsa Tourbillon: High-End Indian Watch With A Hand-Painted Dial Honoring Jaipur
The Titan Nebula Jalsa Tourbillon is a statement piece that blends fine watchmaking with Indian artistic heritage, honoring Jaipur with a hand-painted dial by artist Shakir Ali depicting Maharaja Sawai Singh on an elephant. Its 43.5mm case in 18k red gold is paired with a distinctive red agate ring, while inside, Titan’s in-house calibre 7TH2 features a flying tourbillon—a first for the brand and a clear signal of technical ambition. Though Titan does not intend to fully pivot into the ultra-high-end segment, this watch serves as a halo project to inspire its teams and attract serious collectors. Priced at roughly ₹4,050,000 INR (about $45,200 USD), it aims to offer a more accessible alternative to comparable Swiss tourbillons while elevating the Nebula sub-brand’s profile.
Watching Time - Videos
Jacob & Co Chronos: World’s Fastest Tourbillon | Dubai Watch Week 2025
This video spotlights Jacob & Co’s Chronos, billed as the world’s fastest tourbillon, and filmed around its star turn at Dubai Watch Week 2025. The piece dives into the watch’s radical engineering and theatrical aesthetics, explaining how the ultra-high-speed tourbillon pushes the boundaries of what is technically possible. Visual close-ups emphasize the sense of motion and mechanical drama, underscoring the brand’s flair for spectacle. It’s positioned as both a horological milestone and a statement object for collectors who want something truly extreme.
Answering Your Watch Market Questions - New Year Q&A
In this New Year Q&A, the host tackles viewer questions about the state of the watch market, from pricing trends and “cooling off” segments to which brands look poised for a strong year. The discussion connects macroeconomic sentiment with collector behavior, touching on topics like shrinking waitlists, grey-market dynamics, and where value may still be hiding. Rather than hype, the tone focuses on realistic expectations and practical advice for enthusiasts considering their next moves. The result is a digestible snapshot of how the market is shaping up at the start of 2026.
Hands-On With The New Omega Speedmaster Professional Reverse Panda
This hands-on video takes a close look at the new Speedmaster Professional Reverse Panda, highlighting its black dial with crisp white sub-dials and how that twist changes the familiar “Moonwatch” personality. The presenter walks through the case, bezel, and bracelet details, showing how the reverse-panda layout affects legibility and wrist presence. Movement specs and everyday wear impressions are covered, framing the watch as both a faithful Speedmaster and a fresh, more graphic alternative to the classic. By the end, viewers get a clear sense of how it looks, feels, and fits into the broader Speedmaster family.
These 6 Hottest New Watches Just Dropped!
This video rounds up six newly released watches that the host believes will drive conversation among enthusiasts. Each segment breaks down why a given model stands out, whether for its design, complication, price positioning, or brand strategy. The presentation balances quick visual tours with commentary on how these releases fit into current trends such as bolder colors, more compact sizing, or value-focused specs. It functions as a fast-moving briefing for viewers who want to stay on top of what’s just landed without combing through press releases themselves.
Jola Chudy with La Vallée’s CEO Massimiliano Quintavalle on the Brand’s Dubai Watch Week Launch
In this interview, Jola Chudy speaks with La Vallée CEO Massimiliano Quintavalle about the brand’s official launch at Dubai Watch Week and what sets its approach to watchmaking apart. Quintavalle outlines the creative vision behind La Vallée, stressing design, craftsmanship, and the importance of storytelling in today’s luxury landscape. The conversation also touches on how Dubai Watch Week serves as a global stage for newcomers to connect with collectors, media, and industry peers. Viewers come away with a clearer sense of La Vallée’s identity and ambitions in a crowded high-end segment.
Where Have I Been? Is Federico Quitting Watches? LOL
This video addresses Federico’s recent disappearance from the watch scene and the speculation it has sparked among his followers. The creator leans into the drama of a possible “exit,” while reassuring viewers through humor that the situation is not as dire as rumors might suggest. Along the way, the video reflects on how personalities like Federico shape the tone and culture of the watch community. Viewers are left with a clearer picture of what has been going on behind the scenes and what to expect going forward.
Talking Time - Podcasts
Fratello On Air: What We’re Shopping For, Or Not, In 2026
In this New Year episode, the hosts talk through their collecting plans for 2026 and how they want to approach buying more deliberately. Mike is aiming for a smaller number of higher-end pieces, with the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF 36 in Stone Blue at the top of his list, and a Cartier Tank Normale also on his radar. Balazs hints at a microbrand purchase from Japan and discusses getting close to completing his Angelus collection, while also dreaming about a vintage minute repeater. Along the way they touch on recent collaborations, new releases like the Synchron Sealab Ti300M, and invite listeners to share their own watch shopping lists for the year.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2019 Breguet Classique 39MM Silver Dial Leather Strap (7337BA/1E/9V6)- was bid to $16,700 but did not meet its reserve or its market value of $25,000. - make an offer]
2024 Hermès H08 42MM Grey Dial Rubber Strap (W060124WW00)
Auction Report: The Two-Tone Hermès H08 That Doesn’t Try to Be a “Watch Guy” Watch (And That’s the Point)
If you’re shopping in the sweet spot between stealth-luxury and genuine design credibility, the Hermès H08 is one of the more interesting “modern sports watch” answers of the last few years—especially in this higher-spec, two-tone configuration. The watch in tonight’s auction is the 2024 Hermès H08 ref. W060124WW00, represented by the seller as being in very good condition, offered with inner and outer boxes, additional items, and papers dated April 2024.
The H08 matters because it was Hermès making a deliberate, collector-facing men’s sports watch—less “fashion watch cameo,” more “we belong in the conversation.” The model debuted in 2021 after a multi-year development cycle and quickly became a pillar product for the brand’s modern horology push. That credibility is helped along by Hermès’ broader strategy over the past decade: investing in watchmaking capability and taking mechanical watches seriously as products, not just accessories.
Now, about this reference. W060124WW00 is the elevated H08: a rose-gold case paired with a titanium back, finished with black DLC, and framed by a satin-brushed ceramic bezel with polished chamfers. Inside is the Hermès Manufacture H1837 automatic movement with an approximate 50-hour power reserve, with the date placed at 4:30 and 10 bar (100m) water resistance. The brand’s own sizing language can be confusing here: it’s listed with a 39mm case width and 42mm lug-to-lug height, which is why you’ll see it described as “42mm” in some listings.
Dial color is another area where listings vary. Hermès describes it as “black gold treated” with blackening, while many resellers call it grey/anthracite because it reads lighter in certain lighting and photos. Either way, the aesthetic is the same: matte-modern, legible Arabic numerals with lume, and a case shape that splits the difference between round and cushion without looking like it was focus-grouped into oblivion.
Value-wise, this is not the same market as the standard titanium H08s you’ll see around the mid-$4,000s. This two-tone, DLC/ceramic/rose-gold reference sits meaningfully higher: current secondary listings and price-guide estimates commonly cluster in the low-to-mid five figures, roughly the $12,500–$14,500 neighborhood depending on condition, completeness, and seller channel, with some asks above that. Against a current U.S. retail of $16,400, you’re essentially deciding how much of the “full retail experience” you want to pay for versus buying the same design and movement at a more rational number—assuming the condition checks out as advertised and the set is complete.
My take: the H08 is at its best when you want a modern daily wearer that signals taste more than tribe. It’s sporty but not loud, luxurious without screaming precious metal, and just different enough from the usual stainless-steel suspects to feel intentional. If you’re bidding tonight, I’d treat “very good” as your cue to scrutinize the usual friction points: DLC for edge wear, the ceramic bezel for hairlines, and the rubber strap for stretch and cracking around the holes. Papers dated April 2024 are a meaningful plus for future resale and for your own peace of mind.
The auction ends Wednesday, January 14, 2026 at 8:04 PM (ET). If you can land this one at a meaningful discount to retail—while keeping the full set and clean condition—you’ll have one of the more design-forward, under-the-radar luxury sports watches on the market, with a lot less “same watch, different wrist” energy than the usual shortlist.
Current bid: $6,000