BuyingTime Daily - February 6, 2026
Richemont weighs a JLC buyout, Breitling goes F1, pre-owned hits $17B, and rare independents surface as the secondary market tightens its grip.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Yesterday delivered a little bit of everything across the watch universe, starting at the top with Richemont reportedly exploring a management buyout of Jaeger-LeCoultre led by longtime CEO Jérôme Lambert. With JLC valued north of CHF 1 billion but showing clear margin pressure inside Richemont’s Specialist Watchmakers division, the story reads less like drama and more like strategic housekeeping—another sign that the big groups are reassessing what really belongs under their umbrellas.
On the darker side of the luxury world, newly unsealed Epstein records put Panerai, Franck Muller, and Cartier into an uncomfortable headline—not for anything they did, but for how casually Ghislaine Maxwell discussed buying counterfeit watches in bulk from China. It’s an ugly reminder that the fake-watch economy has always operated in plain sight, even among people who assumed they were untouchable. Meanwhile, the legitimate secondary market continues to surge, with pre-owned watch sales hitting $17 billion in 2025 and Rolex alone accounting for $5.7 billion of that total. The numbers confirm what collectors already know: the resale market is no longer a sideshow, and programs like Rolex Certified Pre-Owned are now shaping the industry’s economics rather than reacting to them.
Motorsport also dominated the news cycle as Breitling officially jumped into Formula 1 with a multi-year sponsorship of the Aston Martin Aramco F1 Team. That partnership wasted no time producing metal, with the new Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Aston Martin Formula One Team edition landing in titanium and racing green, limited to 1,959 pieces and priced just north of $11,000. Staying in launch mode, yesterday also brought fresh looks from Christopher Ward with its C60 Trident Lumière ‘Green Fifteen’ collaboration, Farer expanding its World Timer lineup, IWC teaming up with George Russell on two Top Gun Pilot’s Watches, Parmigiani Fleurier adding an Agave Blue stunner to the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor family, Unimatic refining its minimalist tool-watch playbook, and Niton officially re-entering the conversation with the Prima—a revival that blends jump-hour nostalgia with modern haute horlogerie execution.
On the review front, the DUG Purist Typ 1 and Typ 2 made a strong case for Glashütte-inspired design at accessible prices, while TAG Heuer revisited maritime history with the Carrera Seafarer Chronograph, a quirky but charming revival that actually makes sense in today’s Glassbox era. Comparative coverage also stirred the pot, with Orient Star increasingly stealing attention from Seiko thanks to confident anniversary releases and thoughtful in-house movements.
If you’re catching up on video content tonight, Formula 1 wristwear was a recurring theme, from debates about whether drivers wear the “wrong” watches to deep dives into pilot watches, water resistance, and the growing appeal of titanium tool divers. And before signing off, keep an eye on tonight’s auction report spotlighting the ultra-rare Czapek & Cie.Quai des Bergues “Blue Aurora,” a 10-piece guilloché unicorn currently sitting at a very approachable $5,555 with the hammer set to fall at 9:56pm—one of those moments where rarity and opportunity briefly overlap.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
Richemont reportedly considering sale of Jaeger-LeCoultre
Richemont is reportedly considering a management buyout of Jaeger-LeCoultre led by CEO Jérôme Lambert, with a valuation exceeding CHF 1 billion. This potential acquisition follows the recent sale of Baume & Mercier and reflects the broader trend of Richemont’s Specialist Watchmakers division facing declining sales and profits compared to its more lucrative Jewellery Maisons. In 2024, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s turnover was estimated at CHF 524 million, yet the company has struggled with a significant drop in operating profit, highlighting the disparities within Richemont’s portfolio. Jérôme Lambert, an experienced executive within Richemont, has a long history with Jaeger-LeCoultre and other prestigious brands.
Newly Released Epstein Records Detail Ghislaine Maxwell’s Role in Purchasing Counterfeit Luxury Watches
Recently unsealed records from the Jeffrey Epstein case reveal Ghislaine Maxwell’s direct involvement in procuring counterfeit luxury watches from China. An email exchange from September 2002 highlights her casual discussions about purchasing large quantities of fake watches from prominent brands like Panerai, Franck Muller, and Cartier. Maxwell negotiated a bulk price of approximately $20 per watch and deliberately chose heavier models that could deceive observers into believing they were genuine. The release of these materials adds to the ongoing narrative surrounding the culture of impunity linked to Epstein and Maxwell, illustrating that their criminal behavior extended beyond high-profile offenses to include regular, openly discussed illegal conduct.
Pre-owned watch sales hit $17bn in 2025 — $5.7bn from Rolex
The pre-owned watch market reached $17 billion in 2025, with Rolex contributing $5.7 billion, showcasing a significant growth of 36.4% compared to the previous year. The secondary market outperformed the primary market, which saw minimal growth, indicating a structural shift in how these markets interact. Luxury brands, especially Rolex, are now faced with the challenge and opportunity of engaging with the secondary market, as evidenced by the success of Rolex’s Certified Pre-Owned program, which alone generated $590 million in sales. Rolex maintained a dominant position in the secondary market, with its DateJust and Daytona collections leading in sales.
Breitling Jumps Into Formula 1 With Aston Martin Team Sponsorship Deal
Breitling has entered the world of Formula 1 by forming a multi-year sponsorship deal with the Aston Martin Aramco Formula One Team. This partnership will see the Breitling logo featured on the Aston Martin team’s car and apparel starting with the 2026 season. While the Swiss watchmaker is predominantly known for its aviation watches, the move into motorsports aims to enhance its brand presence in a competitive field alongside established names like TAG Heuer and Rolex. To commemorate the collaboration, Breitling plans to launch a limited-edition Navitimer chronograph with design elements reflecting Aston Martin’s racing heritage.
Feature Time
Historic Jump Hour Manufacturer Niton Relaunches With A Blend Of Vintage And Modern Style With The ‘Prima’
Niton, a historic jump hour watch manufacturer founded in Geneva in 1919, has relaunched with the ‘Prima’, blending vintage aesthetics with modern technology. The brand’s revival is led by Leopoldo Celi and Yvan Ketterer, who bring a rich background in watchmaking. The Niton Prima is a limited edition of 38 pieces, featuring a manual-wound caliber with chronometer certification and a unique sonnerie au passage, available in platinum and rose gold. The brand aims to expand beyond the initial jump hour collection, leveraging its historical significance and established collector base, with future collections anticipated to explore various forms and complications.
The Latest Time
Breitling
The Roaring Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Aston Martin Formula One Team In Titanium
Breitling has partnered with Aston Martin and the Aston Martin Aramco Formula One Team as their Official Watch Partner, unveiling the limited edition Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Aston Martin Formula One Team. This timepiece, limited to 1,959 pieces, commemorates Aston Martin’s first entry into Formula 1 and features a 43mm titanium case with a distinctive black and green carbon fiber dial. The watch incorporates design elements inspired by the Aston Martin Racing colors and offers advanced functionality, including a COSC-certified automatic movement, a water resistance rating of 30 meters, and a built-in slide rule for calculations. Priced at $11,130, it combines luxury with high-performance features, making it an attractive option for collectors and racing aficionados.
Christopher Ward
The Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière ‘Green Fifteen’ x Bark & Jack
The Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière ‘Green Fifteen’ x Bark & Jack is a purpose-driven dive watch that showcases a minimalist aesthetic while maintaining robust functionality. Constructed from grade 2 titanium, it features a 41 mm diameter case and a matte black dial with a unique granular texture. The watch is powered by the COSC-certified Sellita SW300-1 movement, providing a 56-hour power reserve and is water-resistant up to 300 meters. Available for a limited order window starting February 5, 2026, the C60 Trident Lumière is priced at $2,995 and comes with a titanium bracelet and an additional two-piece rubber strap designed by Bark & Jack.
Farer
Around The Dial In 24 Hours With The New Farer World Timers
The Farer World Timers, launched by the British indie brand Farer, combine stylish design with functional features, catering to modern watch enthusiasts. The World Timers feature a central 24-hour disc and a bidirectional internal bezel, allowing users to track time across 24 cities simultaneously. The latest models come in a dark green Foxe dial and a new burgundy Thorne dial, both meticulously crafted with intricate details. These watches are housed in a 39mm case, available in stainless steel or gold PVD, and offer a water resistance of up to 100 meters, with the Thorne model retailing for $1,935 and the gold PVD options for $2,000.
IWC
Mercedes-AMG F1 Pilot George Russell Teams Up with IWC for Two New Pilot’s Watches
British Formula One driver George Russell has collaborated with IWC to create two limited edition Pilot’s Watches that reflect his racing spirit and distinctive style. These watches, part of IWC’s Top Gun collection, feature a sleek black ceramic case and striking blue accents inspired by Russell’s helmet. Designed for functionality and aesthetics, the chronograph and time-and-date models are limited to 1,063 pieces each, showcasing IWC’s commitment to both innovation and luxury. The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 operates on an automatic calibre with a 46-hour power reserve, while the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 offers a 120-hour power reserve, both engineered to withstand water resistance up to 100 meters.
Niton
The New Niton Prima Brings Back A Historic Name
The Niton Prima, a revival of a historic watchmaking name, brings back the legacy of Manufacture des Montres Niton S.A., known for its jumping hour mechanisms since its founding in 1919. This elaborate timepiece, inspired by Art Deco design, features a unique rectangular shape and is powered by a meticulously crafted movement that adheres to Geneva Seal specifications. Limited to just 19 pieces in platinum and rose gold, the Niton Prima showcases exquisite craftsmanship and modern engineering, with its rectangular case measuring 27mm x 35.50mm. Priced at $51,260 for the rose gold version and $54,690 for the platinum edition, this watch represents a blend of tradition and contemporary design, appealing to enthusiasts of fine watchmaking.
Parmigiani Fleurier
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Agave Blue
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Agave Blue is a sophisticated watch that combines luxury with functional design. Launched as part of the Tonda PF collection, it emphasizes restraint and proportion, featuring a 40mm stainless steel case with a platinum bezel or an 18k rose gold case. The Agave Blue dial is hand-guilloché, offering a unique texture that enhances its aesthetic appeal while maintaining clarity with applied indices and skeletonized hands. The stainless steel version is priced at $27,160, while the rose gold variant retails for $66,470, making both models a significant investment in contemporary haute horlogerie.
Unimatic
Hands-On With New Unimatic Modello Cinque U5S-BL Limited Edition
The Unimatic Modello Cinque U5S-BL Limited Edition is a stunning new release from the Italian brand, known for its clever minimalist tool watches. With a limited run of only 300 pieces, this model features a 36mm stainless steel case and introduces innovative Unilight 3D luminous markers, enhancing its functionality and aesthetic. The watch maintains a sleek design with a matte black dial and oversized crown, making it an ideal choice for those looking for a modern field watch. It is powered by the reliable Sellita SW200-1b movement, ensuring accuracy and a 41-hour power reserve, with versatile styling options including an olive-drab NATO strap and an additional black leather strap.
Wearing Time - Reviews
DUG
DUG Purist Typ 1 Watch Review: Glashütte Prestige At A Value Price
The DUG Purist Typ 1 and Typ 2 watches represent a unique entry in the German watch market, blending traditional craftsmanship from Glashütte with Swiss-made movements. While the brand emphasizes its German roots, the movements are sourced from Sellita, allowing DUG to maintain a Glashütte identity through local assembly and decoration. The construction includes a 40mm stainless steel case with finishing that rivals higher-end timepieces, water-resistant to 100 meters and equipped with a display caseback showcasing a beautifully decorated Sellita SW400 movement. With a starting price of $1,499, these watches are designed for daily wear, appealing to those who appreciate understated elegance and the unique heritage of Glashütte watchmaking.
TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer’s Seafarer Navigates the Tides
The TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer Chronograph revives a quirky model from the 1940s, reimagined in the contemporary Carrera ‘Glassbox’ format. With its vibrant teal accents and warm hues, the watch retains the charm of the original while integrating modern technical upgrades, including a tide indicator that replaces the elapsed hours counter. Equipped with the TH20-04 movement, the Carrera Seafarer showcases a performance-oriented chronograph architecture that promises reliability and an 80-hour power reserve. Priced at CHF 8,300 and set to be available in March 2026, this model successfully merges historical significance with modern craftsmanship, appealing to both collectors and casual enthusiasts.
Comparing Time
I Never Thought I’d Say This, but Orient Star Is Winning My Attention Over Seiko
The recent announcements from Orient Star, particularly the 75th anniversary collection, have shifted perceptions about the brand, previously overshadowed by competitors like Seiko. The collection features five limited editions that convey a sense of confidence and direction, with standout models like the M34 F8 Date with a meteorite dial and the M45 F7 Small Seconds reflecting a blend of tradition and modernity. The collection’s overall theme emphasizes a coherent design language, in-house movements, and thoughtful limitations across models priced between €660 and over €3,200. This evolution positions Orient Star as a serious contender in the watch market, making it increasingly difficult to overlook as a viable choice for watch enthusiasts.
Watching Time - Videos
Are F1 Drivers Wearing The Wrong Watches?
The focus of the video centers around the watches worn by Formula 1 drivers, questioning whether they are the most suitable choices for their high-speed, high-pressure environment. It delves into the significance of timekeeping in racing, emphasizing the need for precision and reliability in such an intense sport. The video explores various watch brands and models favored by F1 drivers, analyzing their features and functionalities, contrasting the luxury aesthetic often associated with these timepieces against the practical requirements necessary for performance on the track. By examining these aspects, the discussion aims to provoke thought about the balance between style and practicality in the world of competitive racing.
GAGA Laboratorio Bauhaus (Exquisite Timepieces)
GAGA Laboratorio Bauhaus presents a captivating exploration into the world of exquisite timepieces. This video delves into the artistry and craftsmanship behind luxury watches, emphasizing the intricate design process and the unique features that set these timepieces apart. The production showcases various models, highlighting their distinctive aesthetics and technical prowess through engaging visuals and expert commentary. By providing insights into the meticulous work that goes into creating each piece, it reinforces the notion that these watches are not merely accessories but rather masterpieces that embody both functionality and elegance.
Amazing Watches That Look Twice The Price!
The video showcases a selection of high-quality timepieces that offer luxury aesthetics at an affordable price. Viewers can expect to see a variety of watch styles that mimic the appearance of more expensive brands, making them appealing for those who desire elegance without the hefty price tag. The presentation emphasizes the craftsmanship and attention to detail that goes into each watch, highlighting features that make them stand out in the market. Additionally, the video provides insights into the functionality and durability of these watches, ensuring that they not only look good but also stand the test of time.
When a YouTuber Designs A Watch…
The video explores the intriguing process of a YouTuber venturing into watch design, highlighting the unique challenges and creative decisions involved in transforming ideas into a tangible product. By documenting the journey, the YouTuber provides insights into their design philosophy, showcasing the blend of personal style and functionality that defines the watch. In addition to the design aspects, the video touches on the technicalities of watchmaking, including material selection and craftsmanship. The project serves as an engaging narrative that merges entertainment with education, inviting viewers to appreciate the intricacies of both design and functionality in the world of watches.
The Green Fifteen All Titanium Diver by Bark & Jack and Christopher Ward
The Green Fifteen All Titanium Diver is a collaborative watch created by Bark & Jack and Christopher Ward, crafted entirely from titanium and highlighting durability and lightweight properties, making it an ideal choice for divers. The design emphasizes both functionality and style, appealing to watch enthusiasts who appreciate high-quality craftsmanship. The video delves into the features and specifications of the Green Fifteen All Titanium Diver, exploring the unique elements that differentiate this timepiece in the competitive market of diving watches. The presentation is anticipated to attract viewers interested in horology and those looking for a reliable diving companion.
Pilot Watches Explained: What They Are & Top Picks
Pilot watches are specially designed timepieces that cater to the needs of aviators and adventurers, typically featuring large, easy-to-read dials, luminous hands, and robust construction to withstand the rigors of flight and outdoor activities. Many pilot watches include useful functions such as chronographs, altimeters, and compasses, making them not only stylish accessories but also practical tools for navigating the skies. Top picks for pilot watches often highlight renowned brands known for their craftsmanship and reliability, with models that combine functionality with aesthetic appeal. Whether for professional pilots or watch enthusiasts, these timepieces are celebrated for their heritage, precision, and the unique stories they tell about aviation history.
Fratello Talks: Understanding Water Resistance
This video explores the concept of water resistance, delving into its importance, variations, and how it applies to various products. The content aims to educate viewers on the practical aspects of water resistance, helping them make informed decisions about their timepieces. The video provides straightforward information that helps demystify the technical specifications often found on watch cases. Although not prominently featured, the video is accessible for viewers interested in understanding this crucial aspect of watch functionality.
Breitling has a NEW Navitimer, here’s what you need to know
Breitling has introduced a new version of its iconic Navitimer watch, which is set to capture the attention of watch enthusiasts and collectors alike. Known for its unique features and aviation heritage, the new Navitimer promises to maintain the brand’s signature craftsmanship while incorporating modern design elements. The watch is expected to offer advanced functionalities that cater to both pilots and everyday users who appreciate precision and style. The blend of tradition and modernity in the new design is anticipated to uphold Breitling’s reputation in the luxury watch market.
My Ultimate Tool Watch - The Green Fifteen
The video explores the features and functionalities of the Green Fifteen tool watch, highlighting its importance and appeal to enthusiasts. In addition to its captivating design, the watch showcases various practical applications, making it a must-have for those who appreciate both aesthetics and utility. The content is designed to engage viewers and provide insights into why the Green Fifteen stands out in the tool watch market. The video positions it as an essential piece for collectors and users alike.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee.com
[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2025 H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds “Spiced Aqua” 42.8MM Turquoise Dial Rubber Strap (3201-1202) - was bid to $12,500 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2025 H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds “Spiced Aqua” 42.8MM Turquoise Dial Rubber Strap (3201-1202)
Auction Report: Auction Report: The 10-Piece Czapek Quai des Bergues “Blue Aurora” Is a Guilloché Micro-Production Unicorn (Ends Feb. 6, 2026 at 9:56pm ET)
If your watch collecting brain still responds to the words “limited to 10 pieces,” the 2023 Czapek & Cie Quai des Bergues “Blue Aurora” is going to hit the right nerve. This listing is being presented as like new and never worn, and it’s coming with a box, additional items, and papers dated January 27, 2023—exactly the kind of completeness that matters when you’re dealing in ultra-low-production independents. With the auction ending at 9:56pm tonight (February 6, 2026), the real question isn’t whether it’s interesting. It’s whether the price lands in “rare-but-rational” territory, or drifts into “I just paid a scarcity tax because I could.”
The Quai des Bergues line is one of the cleanest expressions of what modern Czapek does well: classical architecture with deliberately artisanal details, but packaged in a watch that still wears like a contemporary daily piece. The “Blue Aurora” variant traces back to the brand’s small run of Aurora-themed Quai des Bergues models—limited to 10 pieces per colorway—with a distinctive hand-guilloché “Eaux-Vives” pattern dial and a 42.5mm steel case. This isn’t a mass-produced stamped texture; it’s the sort of dial treatment that looks alive under changing light, and that’s the whole point of chasing something like this instead of a more common production alternative.
Mechanically, you’re buying the SXH1 hand-wound movement—developed with Jean-François Mojon/Chronode—built around a long (seven-day) power reserve and high-end finishing cues like open ratchets and extensive hand work on the bridges. On the Quai des Bergues layout, you also get the signature asymmetry: off-center small seconds and a combined power reserve/day-of-week style indication that gives the dial some personality without turning it into a novelty.
So what’s it worth? Because only 10 exist, the market is thin by definition, and pricing tends to be “whatever two serious people decide it is that week.” Still, there are some helpful guideposts. A current secondary-market listing for a 1/10 Quai des Bergues variant shows an asking price around the mid-$20,000s. Sotheby’s also cataloged a “Blue Aurora” example with an estimate of HKD 100,000–200,000, which broadly frames the watch in the “mid-to-high five figures HKD” band before you even argue about condition, set completeness, or how badly someone wants this dial. And looking at broader Quai des Bergues auction results (not necessarily Blue Aurora), you’ll see realized prices commonly clustering in the mid-teens (USD) range—useful context, but not a perfect comp when you’re dealing with a 10-piece dial configuration.
In practical terms, the premium here is driven by three things: (1) the dial (because “Eaux-Vives” is the whole emotional hook), (2) the edition size (10 is genuinely microscopic), and (3) the condition + full set (unworn with papers dated 2023 is exactly what serious buyers prefer). If bidding stays disciplined, you can make a case that a strong number is justified versus standard-production Quai des Bergues variants, especially if the buyer is building a focused independent roster rather than shopping broadly for “a nice watch.” The risk is liquidity: if you ever decide to move it, you’ll need the same kind of buyer you are today—someone who cares about Czapek, cares about this dial, and cares about the idea of owning 1 of 10.
My take: this is the kind of piece that makes sense when you want something legitimately scarce, visually special, and still rooted in traditional watchmaking values—without drifting into gimmick territory. If the bidding climbs into “because it’s 10 pieces” rather than “because it’s a great watch,” be willing to walk. But if it finishes in a range that reflects rarity and reality, it’s a very compelling independent pickup ahead of the February 6 close.
Current bid: $5,555