BuyingTime Daily - February 5, 2026
Rolex rumors swirl, Greubel Forsey hits turbulence, Moser expands in Asia, and fresh releases reset the tone as watch-market reality replaces hype.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Today’s watch news opens with a familiar crown-shaped mystery, as Rolex finds itself at the center of speculation after the GMT-Master II “Pepsi” quietly vanished from U.S. authorized dealer websites. The watch is still alive and well on Rolex’s own site and abroad, which only adds fuel to the rumor mill. Whether this is a temporary supply hiccup, a production issue tied to the famously tricky bezel, or something more deliberate, collectors are once again reminded that when Rolex goes silent, the market tends to talk louder—and usually faster.
Expansion and confidence were the themes elsewhere. H. Moser & Cie. marked its first boutique opening in Singapore, deepening its partnership with Cortina Watch and reinforcing the brand’s steady global footprint built on understatement rather than scale. At retail, Watches of Switzerland Group upgraded its 2026 growth outlook, pointing to resilient demand in the U.S. and UK even as margins tighten, a reminder that volume and profitability remain uneasy bedfellows in the current luxury cycle. Meanwhile, an inside look at Greubel Forsey revealed a maison in transition, balancing architectural beauty and technical ambition against a reset in production goals following the very public departure of co-founder Stephen Forsey.
Market perspective rounded out the day, with new data showing Rolex giving back a bit of secondary-market share as investor fever continues to cool and collectors gravitate toward dressier, more expressive designs. That shift was echoed in broader trend coverage highlighting the resurgence of rectangular cases, moon phases, and richer dial colors, while British Watchmakers’ Day previewed a slate of tightly limited editions that lean heavily into heritage and individuality. Vintage lovers also got a reminder that value still exists off the hype path, with the Longines Grand Prize standing out as an accessible entry into mid-century elegance.
On the new-watch front, there was no shortage of variety. Releases ranged from AVI-8’s Tuskegee Airmen tribute and Orient Star’s meteorite-dial anniversary piece to a strong showing from Audemars Piguet, including fresh Code 11.59 executions, Royal Oak stone dials, and a flying tourbillon that leaned hard into craft and materials. High horology made its presence felt as well, with Urwerk’s LightSpeed Ceramic pushing cosmic storytelling and Vacheron Constantin delivering a ruby-red Overseas Tourbillon that blends sport and spectacle.
Reviews today leaned tactile and wearable, with hands-on impressions of RGM’s railroad-inspired Model 222-RR, the compact and capable RZE Resolute 36, and Seiko’s budget-friendly mechaquartz chronographs reminding readers that enthusiasm doesn’t have to scale with price. On the screen, the video lineup offered everything from fresh hands-ons and media roundtables to factory visits and more than a little Rolex-related provocation, while the podcast circuit tackled the business end of watchmaking with a timely conversation around Baume & Mercier’s future.
At auction, attention turned to color and restraint with today’s featured report on the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds “Spiced Aqua,” a near-new example that pairs summer energy with in-house seriousness. It’s a fitting capstone to a day that underscored where the market seems to be heading: less frenzy, more personality, and a renewed appreciation for watches that say something beyond their resale charts.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
Rolex loses market share as investor hysteria fades
In 2025, Rolex experienced a decline in market share, dropping by 3.3% in secondary market sales, as reported by Chrono24. This shift indicates a normalization in the market after years of investor hysteria. While Rolex remains a leader, the demand has shifted towards more dressy aesthetics, with rectangular case watches and unique color palettes gaining popularity. The focus has turned from mere functionality to elegant design, as collectors increasingly appreciate mechanical details and sustainability in their purchases.
Rolex and the curious case of the missing GMT Pepsi
Rolex’s GMT Master II, known for its iconic blue and red bezel, has unexpectedly disappeared from the websites of authorized dealers in the United States, sparking speculation about its future. While the watch remains listed on Rolex’s official website and on dealer sites in other countries, the absence from U.S. retailers’ websites has raised questions about a potential discontinuation, especially given past rumors of high manufacturing failure rates for the bezel. Despite the lack of definitive information, the situation suggests that Rolex, known for its meticulous attention to detail, would not allow such an omission to occur without a reason. The GMT Master II remains a highly sought-after timepiece, often commanding significant resale values in the secondary market, leading to increased curiosity and concern among enthusiasts and collectors regarding its availability.
H. Moser opens new boutique in Singapore
H. Moser & Cie has opened its seventh global boutique, marking its first location in Singapore in partnership with Cortina Watch. The new boutique is strategically located in Raffles City, surrounded by other mono-brand boutiques operated by Cortina. Celebrating the event, co-owners Edward and Bertrand Meylan were present to highlight the boutique’s design, which reflects the brand’s ethos through raw textures and clean architectural lines. Jeremy Lim, CEO of Cortina Watch, emphasized the significance of this opening as a continuation of a longstanding partnership between the Meylan and Lim families, showcasing shared values and deep personal connections.
Watches of Switzerland upgrades growth forecasts for 2026
Watches of Switzerland Group has significantly upgraded its growth forecast for the 2026 financial year, increasing it from an initial estimate of 6% to between 9% and 11%. This adjustment comes alongside a third quarter trading statement, which indicates a strong demand for key luxury brands, particularly in the UK and US markets. Despite the positive outlook, the company anticipates a slight decline in profitability, with the EBIT margin now projected to be between -0.7% and -0.9%. The group has expanded its operations significantly since 2017, now encompassing eight businesses across the UK and US, including prominent names like Mappin & Webb and Goldsmiths.
WatchPro’s eyewitness account from inside Greubel Forsey
Greubel Forsey’s atelier in La Chaux du Fonds presents a striking blend of historical and modern architecture, featuring a 17th-century farmhouse alongside a contemporary glass structure equipped with advanced manufacturing technologies. The company, which employs around 130 specialists, is currently facing significant strategic challenges, including a decision to halve its production targets and average price point. The recent firing of co-founder Stephen Forsey has added to the turmoil, prompting an urgent need for clarity on the brand’s direction. CEO Michel Nydegger acknowledged the need for a substantial shift in strategy, moving away from plans to increase production significantly.
Feature Time
Dress Watches, Moon Phases, Rectangular Dials: Here’s What Dominated the Watch Market Last Year
The watch market experienced a significant shift in preferences, with collectors increasingly favoring dress watches over sports models, as evidenced by the 2025 Market Recap from Chrono24. The demand for rectangular dials rose by 9.3 percent, while vibrant dial colors such as green, champagne, and gold gained popularity. Notably, moon phase watches saw a remarkable 15.3 percent increase, reflecting a broader trend towards aesthetics in timepieces rather than mere mechanical function. In contrast, Rolex experienced a slight decline in market share by 3.3 percent, suggesting a cooling of the previous frenzy around its models.
Every Special Edition Watch At British Watchmakers’ Day 2026
British Watchmakers’ Day 2026 promises an exciting showcase of limited-edition timepieces from 48 participating brands, with 26 exclusive models available only on the event day. This year’s event emphasizes the uniqueness of each watch, with a strict limit of 50 pieces per special edition. Notable highlights include the Apiar Gen 1.1 Underground, crafted from 3D-printed Grade 23 titanium, and the Fears Brunswick 40, celebrating the brand’s 180th anniversary with a sterling silver case. The event not only showcases innovative designs and materials but also pays homage to British heritage, with brands like Timor and Nomadic introducing models that reflect traditional influences.
Affordable Vintage: the Longines Grand Prize
Longines, a prestigious Swiss watch manufacturer established in 1832, has a rich history of innovation and craftsmanship, producing iconic timepieces from the first wrist chronometer to groundbreaking flyback chronographs. The Grand Prize line, produced between 1958 and 1964, exemplifies the brand’s commitment to quality and elegant design, offering sleek dress watches that cater to a wide audience. An example from 1963 showcases a stunning stainless-steel case, a refined sunburst dial, and minimalist design elements, making it a standout piece for collectors and enthusiasts alike. Vintage Longines Grand Prize watches are available in various price ranges, typically found between $500 and $1,000 on platforms like eBay.
Editorial Time
Audemars Piguet’s 22-Watch Overload—Quantity Over Vision, One Stands Apart
Audemars Piguet recently unveiled 22 new watches, prompting an evaluation of their significance rather than mere celebration. Among these, the 150 Heritage Pocket Watch stands out, showcasing remarkable technical capabilities and horological substance. In contrast, other releases, such as the Neo Frame Jumping Hour and openworked perpetual calendars, appear to reflect a maintenance mode focused on market segmentation rather than genuine innovation. The ongoing paradox at Audemars Piguet is highlighted by the juxtaposition of their innovative capabilities with a series of products that prioritize visibility and production over exclusivity and technical excellence.
Event Time
Van Cleef & Arpels is showcasing its unique approach to watchmaking through the “Poetry of Time” exhibition in Hong Kong, which runs until February 8, 2026. Known for its exquisite high jewellery and the iconic Alhambra design, the brand emphasizes storytelling in its creations, drawing inspiration from its rich heritage and poetic visions of everyday moments. The exhibition offers a comprehensive exploration of both archival and contemporary pieces, including intricate timepieces and remarkable objects like the Planetarium. The exhibition is divided into five thematic chapters—Love Stories, Poetic Astronomy, Enchanting Nature, Ballerinas & Fairies, and Jewels that Tell Time—each presenting a different narrative and aesthetic.
The Latest Time
AVI-8
Avi-8 Release P-51 Mustang Patriot Automatic Tuskegee Airmen 85th Anniversary Limited Edition
Avi-8 has announced the release of the P-51 Mustang Patriot Automatic Tuskegee Airmen 85th Anniversary Limited Edition watch, commemorating the 85th anniversary of the legendary Tuskegee Airmen, the first all-Black aviation unit activated by the US Department of War on March 22, 1941. The watch features a robust 43mm stainless steel case with a pronounced crown guard, designed for legibility crucial for pilots, and notable design elements include oversized Arabic numerals with the numeral for 08 replaced by 85 in red. Powered by a Miyota 8215 automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve, the watch also showcases an exhibition caseback featuring a commemorative rotor adorned with Tuskegee Airmen markings. Limited to just 400 pieces, the watch is priced at $350.
Arion
The Arion Delphinus — A Debut Watch With A Chronode Movement And A Case By Voutilainen & Cattin
The Arion Delphinus is a debut luxury watch featuring a seven-day manual Chronode movement housed in a lightweight Grade 5 titanium case crafted by Voutilainen & Cattin. With a case diameter of 37mm and a thickness of 8.5mm, this watch is categorized as a dress watch, embodying a blend of mid-20th century inspiration and contemporary design elements. It is available in three limited variants: Melian Pearl, Ichthyian Silver, and Aeolian Blue, each designed to provide a unique aesthetic while incorporating advanced features like a water resistance of 5atm. Each variant is priced accordingly, with the Melian Pearl retailing at $28,000 and the other two at $24,000, with production for the limited run of 30 pieces taking eight months.
Audemars Piguet
The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding 38mm In Pink Gold
The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding watch, introduced in 2023, features a 38mm case crafted from 18k pink gold, showcasing a sophisticated design with a slim profile of just 9.6 mm thick. This timepiece offers two dial options: a deep black paired with a black alligator strap for a formal appearance, and a warm silver-toned dial with a brown calfskin strap for a lighter aesthetic. Powered by the Audemars Piguet calibre 5900, this automatic movement provides a 60-hour power reserve and is visible through a sapphire caseback that reveals exquisite finishing details. Priced at approximately $33,500, the Code 11.59 Selfwinding is part of a permanent collection.
The Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon
The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon is a refined addition to the brand’s collection, showcasing an ivory-toned signature dial paired with a sophisticated blend of white gold and black ceramic. The watch maintains its 41mm x 11.8mm dimensions while featuring a case crafted from 18k white gold for the bezel, lugs, and caseback, contrasted by a multi-faceted black ceramic middle. Powered by the in-house Audemars Piguet calibre 2950, the watch operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour and offers a 65-hour power reserve. The dial’s distinctive pattern, developed with guilloché artisan Yann von Kaenel, adds a warm richness, complemented by a pink gold rim around the flying tourbillon.
Audemars Piguet Expands The Royal Oak Mini Collection With Two New Stone Dial Quartz Models
Audemars Piguet has expanded its Royal Oak Mini collection by introducing two new quartz models featuring stone dials. These 23mm timepieces, designed with high-end quartz movements, forgo the previously used frosted finish for polished and satin-brushed surfaces, allowing the stunning black onyx and white mother-of-pearl dials to take center stage. Both new models maintain a sleek profile with a thickness of just 6.6mm and offer a battery life of over seven years, with a water resistance of 50 meters. The retail prices are set at $38,400 for the mother-of-pearl model and $46,000 for the diamond-set black onyx version.
Malachite Dials For The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm And 41mm
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding models in 37mm and 41mm showcase vibrant green malachite dials, replacing the iconic Tapisserie design. These timepieces feature 18k yellow gold cases and unique, banded patterns on the malachite that enhance their regal aesthetic. The 37mm model runs on the automatic calibre 5909 and has a slightly increased case height of 9.3mm, while the 41mm version maintains a height of 10.5mm and is powered by the calibre 4309. With a retail price of approximately $67,200 for the 37mm and approximately $72,700 for the 41mm, these watches reflect Audemars Piguet’s commitment to luxury and craftsmanship.
Orient Star
Orient Star Launch M34 F8 Date Meteorite Dial for 75th Anniversary
Orient Star is celebrating its 75th anniversary with the launch of the limited edition M34 F8 Date Meteorite Dial, which is inspired by the Perseid Meteor Shower associated with the Perseus constellation. The watch features a unique meteorite dial made from iron-based meteorite with a Widmanstätten pattern, ensuring that no two dials are alike, and includes a practical 40mm stainless steel case with a water resistance of 100m. The in-house calibre F8N64 movement boasts a 60-hour power reserve and improved accuracy compared to previous models. With only 255 pieces available globally, the M34 F8 Date Meteorite Dial is set to retail at approximately $3,550.
Urwerk
The Urwerk UR-100V LightSpeed Ceramic
The Urwerk UR-100V LightSpeed Ceramic is a remarkable timepiece that embodies the fusion of mechanical ingenuity and cosmic inspiration. It features a proprietary white ceramic case that is unbreakable, thanks to its composite material enriched with glass and carbon fibers, and showcases not only the time but also the speed of light and the time it takes for sunlight to reach each of the eight planets in our solar system. Powered by the UR 12.02 automatic movement, this watch offers a power reserve of 48 hours and operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The UR-100V LightSpeed Ceramic is presented with two rubber straps and is priced at approximately $75,300.
Vacheron Constantin
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Titanium In Ruby Red
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Titanium showcases a stunning ruby-red dial paired with a lightweight Grade 5 titanium case, offering a perfect blend of luxury and sportiness. This model is part of the esteemed Overseas collection, known for its versatility and high-end craftsmanship, and features a delicate tourbillon regulator housed in a robust case capable of withstanding daily wear. Equipped with Vacheron Constantin’s in-house calibre 2160 movement, the watch offers an impressive 80-hour power reserve while maintaining a slim profile, with a water resistance of 50 meters. Priced at approximately $185,300, this luxury watch exemplifies the brand’s commitment to both aesthetics and functionality.
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Wearing Time - Reviews
RGM
Hands-On With The Charming RGM Model 222-RR
The RGM Model 222-RR is a distinctive timepiece that draws inspiration from American railroad history, featuring a Ferguson-style enamel dial and a vintage Hamilton pocket watch caliber. With a 41mm stainless steel case and a unique tilted layout, this watch balances style and functionality while embodying the classic railroad aesthetic. Wearing the Model 222-RR evokes a sense of nostalgia and connection to the early 20th century, with its large, easily readable dial and comfortable fit on the wrist. The watch is powered by either the 921 or the rarer 923 caliber, both of which are beautifully finished and offer a 45-hour power reserve.
RZE
Hands-On with the RZE Resolute 36 Halcyon
The RZE Resolute 36 Halcyon is a compact yet robust tool watch that appeals to both style and functionality. With a case size of 36mm, it combines elegance with adventure-ready features, including a titanium construction with an UltraHex coating for scratch resistance and a 10 ATM water resistance. Equipped with a Miyota 9039 automatic movement, the Resolute 36 is designed for reliability, making it an excellent choice for a tool watch at an accessible price point of $680. Weighing only 36 grams without the bracelet, it offers a lightweight option that does not compromise on presence.
Seiko
Seiko SSB477, SSB479 & SSB481 Mechaquartz
The Seiko SSB477, SSB479, and SSB481 models showcase a vintage chronograph style while remaining budget-friendly at under $500. Featuring the in-house 8T63 mechaquartz movement, these watches offer a blend of reliability and aesthetics, making them an attractive choice for both newcomers and seasoned collectors. The stainless steel cases are well-proportioned at 38mm in diameter, with a classic satin finish and color-matched bezels that enhance their sporty appearance. With water resistance up to 50 meters and a battery life of approximately three years, they ensure practicality without sacrificing style.
Watching Time - Videos
Hands on: Zelos Comet 39 Vulcan
The Zelos Comet 39 Vulcan is an intriguing watch that combines innovative design with practical functionality. It showcases a blend of aesthetic appeal and robust features, making it a strong contender in the luxury watch market. The watch is constructed with high-quality materials that ensure durability while maintaining a stylish look, appealing to enthusiasts and collectors alike. In a detailed hands-on review, the watch’s performance is evaluated, highlighting its accuracy and reliability.
SUBDIAL: Inside Modern Watch Media & Collecting | AFTER HOURS – Episode Eight
The video explores the vibrant landscape of contemporary watch media and collecting. It delves into how modern platforms have transformed the way enthusiasts engage with horology, highlighting various media channels that have emerged to cater to the sophisticated tastes of collectors. Throughout the episode, viewers are invited to discover the nuances of watch collecting, including trends, challenges, and the community that surrounds this passionate hobby. The conversation provides insights into the evolution of watch media, illustrating how it has adapted to the digital age while fostering connections among collectors.
Four Married Men (For Now) Episode 6: £100k Budget
In the sixth episode, the focus shifts to managing a budget of £100k. The episode explores the dynamics and challenges the four men face as they navigate their financial decisions, shedding light on their individual priorities and how these impact their collective experience. As the story unfolds, viewers can expect a mix of humor and insightful moments that highlight the complexity of marriage and budgeting. The episode promises to engage audiences with relatable scenarios and the comedic interactions between the characters as they attempt to balance their financial goals with their personal lives.
6 Next-Level Watches Just Dropped!
The latest release features six innovative watches that are set to elevate the standards in horology. These timepieces showcase cutting-edge technology and unique designs, appealing to both watch enthusiasts and casual consumers alike. Each model introduces new functionalities that enhance user experience while maintaining an aesthetic appeal. In addition to their technical advancements, these watches reflect a commitment to craftsmanship and quality, with the combination of materials used promising durability and style.
This One Release Just Ruined 2026 for Rolex
The release of a particular product has significantly impacted Rolex’s reputation and future prospects for 2026. This event has generated considerable discussion and concern among watch enthusiasts and industry analysts, who believe it may overshadow the brand’s longstanding prestige and innovation. As the news circulates, the implications of this release are being closely monitored. Many are questioning how Rolex will adapt to the evolving market landscape and whether the brand can recover from this setback.
Roman Sharf Visits Blancpain’s Swiss Workshop!
Roman Sharf takes viewers on an engaging journey as he visits Blancpain’s workshop in Switzerland. The video captures the intricate craftsmanship involved in creating luxury timepieces, showcasing the dedication and precision that define the brand. Audiences can witness firsthand the meticulous processes and innovative techniques employed by skilled artisans, offering a rare glimpse into the world of high-end watchmaking. Throughout the visit, Sharf highlights the unique features of Blancpain watches, emphasizing their heritage and commitment to traditional craftsmanship.
Talking Time - Podcasts
The Business of Watches Podcast: Baume & Mercier CEO Michael Guenoun Talks Strategy On The Eve Of The Brand’s Sale By Richemont
The podcast features an insightful conversation with Michael Guenoun, CEO of Baume & Mercier, as he discusses the brand’s strategic direction on the eve of its sale by Richemont to Italy’s Damiani Group. Guenoun addresses the pressures faced by the brand, including the strong Swiss franc and rising costs, while emphasizing its commitment to remain in the approachable-priced segment of the watch market. He reflects on the brand’s rich history and outlines its strategies for retail, distribution, and pricing in a rapidly changing industry landscape. Additionally, the episode includes a guest appearance by Adrian Barker of Bark & Jack, who shares insights on his upcoming watch collaboration with Christopher Ward.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Wednesday’s auction watch, the 2025 Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 42MM Blue Dial Leather Strap (5905R-010) - was bid to $33,800 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2025 H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds “Spiced Aqua” 42.8MM Turquoise Dial Rubber Strap (3201-1202)
Auction Report: Chromatic Cool, No Compromise: The 2025 H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds “Spiced Aqua” (3201-1202)
If you like your summer-watch energy delivered with Swiss seriousness and a deliberate lack of branding, this 2025 H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds “Spiced Aqua” (ref. 3201-1202) is basically the thesis statement. The seller is calling it new condition, and the set is exactly what you want to see for a modern Moser buy: inner/outer boxes, additional items, and papers dated December 16, 2025. The timing matters here because this is a very recent release in the “Spiced Aqua” colorway—so you’re essentially bidding on a near-fresh example rather than a watch with a decade of unknown adventures.
The “Spiced Aqua” package is the point: a turquoise fumé dial, a vivid orange luminous flange that’s designed to glow after dark, and a white rubber strap that makes the whole thing read like “poolside, but expensive.” H. Moser & Cie.leans into its minimalist DNA—no logo, no indices—so the color and the finishing do all the talking. The Pioneer case keeps it legitimately wearable as an everyday sports watch: 42.8mm steel, screw-down crown, exhibition back, and 12 ATM / 120m water resistance. Under the hood is the in-house automatic HMC 201 with a 72-hour power reserve—simple three-hander architecture, executed the Moser way (clean, robust, and not trying to cosplay as a “tool watch” while still being one).
On value: current retail is commonly listed around $18,300 in the U.S. at authorized/retail channels. In the secondary market, asking prices I’m seeing right now cluster in the high-$17Ks (for example, a listing around $17,995). With this being a full set in near-immediate post-purchase condition, a rational bidding target is typically “a clean discount to retail, but not a fire sale”—especially because the Spiced Aqua look is distinctive and still “current.” As always, the real variable is how many bidders want this exact colorway tonight versus “a Pioneer, generally.”
What you’re really buying is a modern Moser sports watch that doesn’t beg for attention with a logo—yet still announces itself from across the room through color alone. The Pioneer line has become one of the brand’s best answers to collectors who want daily-wear practicality without giving up the brand’s design contrarianism, and “Spiced Aqua” is that idea turned up a notch: playful palette, serious execution, and a movement that doesn’t need an apology tour.
This auction ends tonight, February 5, 2026 at 10:04pm. If you’ve been circling the Pioneer as a “one-watch summer rotation” candidate—or you just want a H. Moser & Cie. that feels like a mood—this is one of the cleaner ways to do it, assuming the bidding stays in a range that still respects the retail math.
Current bid: $7,500