BuyingTime Daily - February 4, 2026
Greubel Forsey drama, an AP avalanche for 2026, AI-powered Swatch creativity, titanium VC, and a blue-dial Patek auction worth watching tonight.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Today’s watch universe delivered its usual mix of high drama, technical flexing, and unapologetic fun, starting with Greubel Forsey, where the very public split with co-founder Stephen Forsey underscored how fragile even the most rarefied independent maisons can be once strategy and governance collide. Leadership insists there’s no for-sale sign hanging in the window, but the episode alone is enough to remind collectors that brand stewardship matters just as much as finishing quality at this level of the market.
On the new-watch front, Audemars Piguet did what Audemars Piguet does best: overwhelm the conversation. A new in-house calibre for the Royal Oak Chronograph 38mm addressed long-standing enthusiast complaints, while the 2026 Royal Oak rollout leaned hard into “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic, ultra-thin perpetual calendars, openworked Jumbos, a retro-futuristic jumping hour, and even a jaw-dropping ultra-complicated pocket watch marking the brand’s 150th anniversary. It was less a product launch than a reminder that AP intends to dominate every design and complication lane simultaneously. Elsewhere in high horology, Vacheron Constantin pivoted smartly toward Grade 5 titanium for the Overseas Tourbillon, pairing a deep red dial with lighter materials to sidestep soaring gold prices without diluting prestige.
Accessibility and reach were themes further down the price spectrum. Bremont planted its flag at JFK Terminal 8 alongside TAG Heuer and Breitling, reinforcing how important travel retail has become for brand storytelling, while Tudor leaned into precision-driven motorsport culture by signing on as official timekeeper for Hero-Era rallies. At the other end of the creativity scale, Swatch rolled out AI-DADA, an AI-powered customization platform that turns decades of Swatch design DNA into near-instant, one-of-one watches—arguably one of the more honest uses of AI in watchmaking so far.
Reviewed and newly launched watches rounded out the day with real range. Timex added a jolt of personality to its Deepwater Reef Titanium with a vivid orange dial that changes the watch’s entire attitude without changing its fundamentals, while Traska finally introduced its first chronograph, a restrained, tool-focused release that feels deliberately un-hyped. On the review bench, Casio shrank a G-Shock down to ring size and somehow kept it functional, and Omega revisited Speedmaster history with black-and-white Moonwatches that channel space-age nostalgia without leaning on gimmicks.
Video content was equally stacked, from the Speedy Tuesday event in Hong Kong to hands-on looks at the new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Deep Red, a roundup of six affordable watches gaining traction, and a deep dive into a purpose-built Omega tool watch developed with Dubois-Depraz for nautical racing. If you’re in a watching mood, there’s plenty to queue up tonight.
At auction, attention remains firmly on the blue-dial Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Flyback Chronograph Ref. 5905R-010, a modern “two-for-one” complication that balances everyday usability with blue-chip credibility. With the auction ending tonight at 8:50pm ET and the current bid sitting well below rational market value, it’s shaping up as a real-world pricing test for modern precious-metal complications in a calmer secondary market.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
Greubel Forsey fires Stephen Forsey over strategy row
Greubel Forsey has fired co-founder Stephen Forsey amid strategic disagreements, leading to significant upheaval within the company’s leadership. Forsey announced his immediate departure and resignation from various boards, citing the board’s decision to terminate his contract as a result of recent management changes. The firm’s transition to an independent business in 2022 under CEO Antonio Calce marked a shift in strategy that appeared to clash with Stephen Forsey’s vision. Currently led by Michel Nydegger, the company faces speculation about its future, including rumors of a potential sale, though Nydegger confirmed there are no ongoing discussions regarding selling the business.
A New Calibre For The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 38mm
Audemars Piguet has introduced a new in-house calibre for the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38mm, enhancing the watch with significant upgrades. The new AP Calibre 6401, developed over five years, replaces the previous movement, offering a longer power reserve of 55 hours and a contemporary frequency of 4Hz. The new model retains the classic visual identity of the Royal Oak while incorporating a sapphire crystal caseback to showcase the intricate 348-part movement. The design also addresses feedback on the previous model by repositioning the date window for a more symmetrical appearance and rearranging the chronograph counters for improved functionality.
Vacheron Constantin uses titanium for Overseas Tourbillon
Vacheron Constantin has introduced a new version of its Overseas Tourbillon watch, crafted from grade 5 titanium, as a response to the soaring gold prices which have made gold timepieces prohibitively expensive. This model features a striking deep red dial and offers options for a titanium bracelet or rubber straps in red or white. Retailing at £139,900 in the UK, it is significantly less expensive than its rose gold counterpart, which is priced at £169,900, highlighting a strategic move to maintain profit margins amidst the challenges faced by luxury watchmakers. The rising cost of gold, now around $5,000 per ounce, has prompted many brands to reconsider their materials for new releases.
Bremont joins TAG Heuer and Breitling in JFK airport
Bremont has opened a new boutique in the duty-free shopping area of JFK Airport’s Terminal 8, enhancing its presence in the luxury goods sector. This location is strategically positioned to cater to travelers, allowing them to explore Bremont’s collections in an engaging way. The store opens amidst a broader trend of luxury watch brands, including TAG Heuer and Breitling, establishing themselves in the same terminal, indicating a growing market for high-end goods in travel retail. The boutique’s launch aligns with Bremont’s expansion strategy, which sees the brand reaching over 75 countries and more than 5,100 points of sale worldwide.
Tudor joins Hero-Era as Official Timekeeper
Tudor has partnered with Hero-Era as the official timekeeper, aligning its “Born To Dare” philosophy with the precision-focused motorsport events that Hero-Era organizes. These rallies, such as the Peking to Paris Rally, emphasize timing and accuracy over speed, challenging competitors to maintain strict schedules across diverse and demanding terrains. The partnership highlights Tudor’s commitment to precision, particularly in the context of classic and vintage cars where reliability is essential. Hero-Era’s events span various locations and conditions, including the Classic Marathon series and the Badawï Trial in the Arabian Peninsula.
Feature Time
Swatch uses AI to power watch customization
Swatch has launched an AI-driven personalization platform named AI-DADA, allowing customers to design unique watches in under two minutes. The tool, inspired by the Dada art movement, utilizes over 40 years of Swatch’s creative history to generate designs that reflect the brand’s aesthetic while ensuring each creation is distinct. Users can create up to three custom designs daily, which are saved until midnight in their local time, and every watch features a unique ‘1/1’ symbol, indicating its individuality. Vivian Stauffer, CEO of Swatch, emphasizes that AI-DADA embodies the brand’s creative heritage and aims to empower individuals to express their uniqueness through personalized timepieces.
Opinion Time
Morgan Stanley’s latest data suggests a more stable secondary market. How is that beneficial to the watch community?
Morgan Stanley's recent report highlights a stabilization in the secondary watch market, which has shown a mix of performance across various brands. While luxury brands like Patek Philippe and Rolex continue to trade above retail prices, there was a noticeable increase in secondary market prices for brands like Blancpain, TAG Heuer, and Longines in 2025. This suggests a growing interest among enthusiasts, who are diversifying their collections beyond just blue-chip brands. The pandemic has shifted the watch collecting landscape, leading to a broader awareness and appreciation for different models. Despite some brands experiencing a decline in overall secondary market performance, the positive reception of new releases and a thriving enthusiast community indicates a promising future for the watch industry. Brands that successfully balance commercial appeal with the desires of collectors are likely to foster a more stable secondary market. As consumer confidence grows in understanding depreciation and value, buyers will feel more empowered to make informed decisions, ultimately contributing to a more diverse and engaged watch collector community.
Event Time
Patek Philippe Plans Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milan 2026
Patek Philippe is set to host its Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan from October 2 to 18, 2026, marking the brand’s seventh such event. This exhibition will take place at the Palazzo delle Scintille and will be the largest presentation of its kind, spanning nearly 10,000 square feet. Visitors can expect themed sections that explore the brand’s history, art, technical innovations, and contemporary watchmaking, with new creations unveiled in tribute to Milan alongside approximately 500 historical timepieces from Patek Philippe’s Antique Collection. The exhibition promises interactive experiences with master artisans and watchmakers demonstrating their craft.
The Latest Time
Audemars Piguet
The New Designs of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronographs
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronographs have been reimagined for 2026, introducing two new models that blend innovative materials and bold aesthetics. The first model features a full case crafted from “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic, complemented by titanium elements, a beige Méga Tapisserie dial, and a dark blue textured calfskin strap. The second model adopts a more aggressive design, combining a lightweight titanium case with black ceramic components and a new smoked green PVD dial, priced at approximately $42,688, while the “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic version is priced at approximately $59,044. Both models maintain the 43mm case size and are powered by the in-house calibre 4401, which offers a flyback chronograph function, a 70-hour power reserve, and water resistance of 100 meters.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar In Bleu Nuit Nuage 50 Ceramic
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic features a 41mm case crafted from a darker, more subtle blue ceramic that combines lightness and durability. This model incorporates the new-generation Calibre 7138 movement, which allows for user-friendly crown adjustments of all calendar functions without the need for tools. The watch showcases a blue Grande Tapisserie dial with white gold accents and a realistic moon-phase display, ensuring both elegance and functionality. Noteworthy is the watch’s impressive water resistance of 50 meters and its exceptionally slim profile at just 9.5mm thick, making it comfortable for daily wear.
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The Ultra-Complicated Audemars Piguet 150e Héritage Pocket Watch
The Audemars Piguet 150e Héritage Pocket Watch celebrates the brand’s 150th anniversary, showcasing a heritage that dates back to its historic ultra-complicated pocket watches. This limited edition piece features a 50mm platinum case housing the new Calibre 1150 movement, which includes a unique Universal Calendar that integrates solar, lunar, and lunisolar cycles into its function. Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, the main dial is made of 18-carat white gold and finished with blue enamel, while the Universal Calendar displays an array of astronomical and cultural indicators. With a total of 47 functions including 30 complications, this exclusive piece is available in just two unique platinum pieces, with additional white gold variations expected in the future.
Audemars Piguet Launches The Retro-Futuristic Neo Frame Jumping Hour
Audemars Piguet has unveiled the Neo Frame Jumping Hour, a timepiece that combines a vintage design from 1929 with modern technology and aesthetics. This watch features a unique jumping hour display that replaces traditional hands with numerals that leap every 60 minutes, enhancing readability. The design is influenced by the Streamline Moderne movement, showcasing a rectangular case made of 18k pink gold, measuring 47.1mm by 34mm and only 8.8mm thick, priced at approximately $70,741. The Neo Frame Jumping Hour is part of Audemars Piguet’s permanent collection and features a black calfskin strap that complements the watch’s sleek design while offering comfort and continuity.
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The New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin Openworked 16204XT
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked 16204XT introduces a fresh take on the classic watch, maintaining its iconic 39mm size while utilizing advanced materials such as titanium and Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG). This new combination enhances the watch’s aesthetics with a polished bezel and caseback that contrasts beautifully with the satin-brushed titanium mid-case. The openworked Calibre 7124 movement, known for its thin profile and intricate design, remains unchanged, showcasing Audemars Piguet’s expertise in skeletonization. While the Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin Openworked 16204XT is not a limited edition, its production will be carefully managed, and it will be available through Audemars Piguet boutiques.
Every New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak for 2026
Audemars Piguet has unveiled an extensive collection of new Royal Oak watches for 2026, featuring 11 new references that include exciting innovations and refreshed designs. Among the highlights is the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked, which introduces the new calibre 7139, allowing for easier adjustments with a single crown. The collection also encompasses the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38mm, showcasing a new calibre 6401 across three models, including a stainless steel version and two luxurious pink gold options. The lineup also introduces aesthetic enhancements with models featuring malachite and stone dials, as well as the Royal Oak Mini Quartz editions that focus on jewelry aesthetics rather than traditional timekeeping.
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Introduces First Perpetual Calendar Openworked
Audemars Piguet has unveiled the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked, marking its first openworked perpetual calendar within the Code 11.59 range. This model features a 41mm white gold case with enhanced drainage capabilities and a transparent sapphire dial that showcases the intricate movement, powered by the new calibre 7139. The watch includes an innovative single adjustment crown system for easier settings of multiple complications, offering a luxurious yet functional timepiece for enthusiasts. In addition to the openworked model, Audemars Piguet introduced updates to the Code 11.59 collection, including a Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon and two standard time and date editions in pink gold, with the 38mm models priced around $37,719.
Timex
An Affordable Titanium Dive Watch From Timex Just Took a Brighter Turn
The Timex Deepwater Reef Titanium 200 has evolved without losing its core identity, maintaining a 41mm Grade 2 titanium case, 200 meters of water resistance, and the reliable Miyota 8215 automatic movement. This new version introduces a vibrant orange dial that significantly alters its personality while retaining familiar design elements, such as large applied block markers filled with Super-LumiNova and a fully lumed unidirectional bezel. Priced at $579, this updated model reflects Timex’s commitment to refining its dive offerings while remaining competitive in the market. The changes enhance character through color rather than a complete redesign, showcasing Timex’s thoughtful approach to appealing to both casual users and collectors.
Traska
Traska Introduces their First Chronograph
Traska has unveiled its first chronograph, aptly named the Traska Chronograph, marking their return after nearly four years. This new watch embodies the brand’s ethos of creating purpose-built tools, drawing inspiration from the simplicity and utility associated with traditional watchmaking. The chronograph features an automatic Seiko NE86 movement, a muted color palette of grays and silvers, and a striking red chronograph seconds hand, with a stainless steel case maintaining a sleek silhouette at 39mm diameter and 13.75mm height. The watch is set to launch on March 1, 2026, with an initial release of 300 pieces in a “Tungsten Gray” colorway, priced at $1,650.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Casio G-Shock Nano DWN5600 Ring Watch Hands-On: A Functioning Miniature Of A Classic Digital Watch
The Casio G-Shock Nano DWN5600 ring watch offers a unique take on wearable technology, serving as a miniature version of the classic G-Shock wristwatch. Unlike traditional ring watches that typically feature analog displays, this model boasts a digital face and retains the robust functionality characteristic of G-Shock timepieces, including shock resistance and water resistance up to 200 meters. Made from bioresin polymer, it is not only lightweight but also designed to maintain functionality with buttons for time, dual time, and stopwatch features, all while being roughly one-tenth the size of a standard G-Shock. Priced at $110 USD, the DWN5600 combines novelty and practicality, making it an interesting addition to any watch enthusiast’s collection.
Comparing Time
Omega’s Latest Black-and-White Moonwatches Recapture the Spirit of the Speedmaster’s Space Age Story
Omega has unveiled its latest black-and-white Moonwatches, a nod to the iconic Speedmaster series that resonates with its storied history in space exploration. Available in both stainless steel and 18K Moonshine gold, these 42mm chronographs feature a step-dial construction with a polished black top plate and white sub-dials, ensuring a striking and functional design. Powered by the advanced Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 3861 movement, these timepieces represent a blend of elegance and cutting-edge technology. The stainless steel version is priced at $10,400, while the gold variant commands a premium at $49,300.
Watching Time - Videos
Video Report: Speedy Tuesday Event in Hong Kong 2026
The video report focuses on the Speedy Tuesday event held in Hong Kong on February 4, 2026. It captures the highlights and key moments of the event, showcasing the excitement and engagement of participants. The report serves to document the event for those who could not attend, providing insights into the activities and atmosphere. In addition to the event coverage, the video emphasizes the significance of the gathering in the local context, reflecting on its impact on the community and its relevance to the broader audience.
These 6 New Affordable Watches Are On Fire!
A new video showcases six affordable watches that are gaining popularity. This engaging content highlights their features, styles, and value, appealing to those looking for stylish timepieces without breaking the bank. The featured watches combine aesthetics with functionality, making them suitable for various occasions. Viewers can expect an in-depth look at each model, alongside practical insights on why these timepieces are trending.
NEW Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Deep Red
The “NEW Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Deep Red” video showcases a luxurious timepiece that embodies sophistication and craftsmanship. The release emphasizes the striking design elements, particularly the deep red hue, which adds a bold aesthetic to the classic watch style. This tourbillon model is not only a testament to Vacheron Constantin’s heritage but also highlights innovative watchmaking techniques that enhance performance and precision. Set to run on February 4, 2026, the video is part of a promotional strategy to engage watch enthusiasts and collectors.
The love child of Omega and Dubois-Depraz. The ultimate Omega tool watch, built for nautical racing.
The piece discusses the innovative collaboration between Omega and Dubois-Depraz, resulting in a highly specialized tool watch designed for nautical racing. This timepiece combines advanced technology with striking aesthetics, embodying the essence of precision and durability required for competitive sailing. Focused on functionality, the watch is engineered to withstand the rigors of nautical environments, ensuring optimal performance for sailors and racing enthusiasts alike.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Tuesday’s auction watch, the Vacheron Constantin Harmony 260th Anniversary 40MM Silver Dial Leather Strap (7810S/000R-B051) - was bid to $15,400 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2025 Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 42MM Blue Dial Leather Strap (5905R-010)
Auction Report: Blue-Chip Complication, Real-World Pricing: 2025 Patek Philippe 5905R-010 (Full Set, 7/24/25 Papers)
This listing is for the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Flyback Chronograph Ref. 5905R-010 in rose gold with the sunburst blue dial and leather strap. It’s a “two-for-one” complication that actually makes sense in daily wear: an annual calendar (day/date/month) that only needs one manual correction per year at the end of February, paired with a self-winding flyback chronograph.
On the wrist, the headline is the modern 42mm case—substantial, but intentionally so, because the 5905 line is meant to be a contemporary, sporty-complicated Patek rather than a shrinking-violet dress piece. Under the hood is Patek’s in-house self-winding chronograph/annual calendar caliber (CH 28-520 QA 24H), which is part of what makes this reference catnip for collectors who want “real” complication without jumping into perpetual-calendar money (or perpetual-calendar fragility). The blue-dial 5905R-010 configuration itself is a newer catalog expression of the model line—introduced in 2023—which matters because it keeps the reference feeling current (and easier to place with buyers who want the latest dial/case combo rather than a discontinued variant).
The seller’s notes are exactly what you want to see for a modern Patek: “very good condition,” and—more important—complete set (inner/outer boxes, additional items) with papers dated July 24, 2025. In this segment, the spread between “watch only” and “full set with recent papers” is not trivial, especially when a buyer is thinking about future liquidity. Assuming the photos confirm clean lugs, honest strap wear, and a dial free of marks in harsh light, this is the type of example that tends to trade faster than you’d expect for a 42mm precious-metal complicated piece.
Now the money. Watch-market pricing for the 5905R-010 has been notably pragmatic versus retail: WatchCharts lists an authorized-dealer retail price around $96,311 (as of Jan 2026), with an estimated market price around $67,481 (as of Feb 2, 2026)—a large gap that reflects how the secondary market has been treating modern precious-metal complications lately. On the asking-price side, current listings aggregated by Chrono24 commonly cluster roughly in the low/mid-$70Ks up through the $80Ks, depending on condition, completeness, and whether the seller is effectively pricing in “immediate availability.” And for a hard datapoint, Christie’s shows a 5905R-010 that realized $52,920 in an online sale that closed May 1, 2025 (not a guarantee of today’s result, but a useful reality check).
So what’s a sensible “value” range for this auction, given a 2025 papered full set? If the condition truly lands in “very good” and it presents as lightly worn, a rational fair zone is mid-$60Ks to mid-$70Ks—with upside into the upper-$70Ks if the listing is exceptionally clean, the market mood is constructive that week, and two bidders decide they want the blue-dial rose-gold combo more than they want to be disciplined. The big caution is psychological: retail anchoring is powerful, but the secondary market has been voting with its wallet. Treat retail as context, not gravity.
The auction ends tonight, February 4, 2026 at 8:50pm. If you’re bidding, that gives you very little breathing room to (1) confirm whether the watch has been polished, (2) check the chrono pushers/crown action, and (3) make sure the calendar functions advance correctly—because the only thing worse than overpaying is overpaying and then discovering a “small” calendar issue isn’t small at all.
Auction ends Wednesday, February 4, 2026 at 8:50pm (ET).
Current bid: $33,330