BuyingTime Daily - February 3, 2026
Patek Philippe cuts U.S. prices, Grammys go heavy on wrist heat, bold new releases land, and a quietly tempting Vacheron Constantin auction closes tonight.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Yesterday’s watch news delivered one of those rare moments where the macro and the micro collided. Patek Philippe grabbed the market’s attention by cutting U.S. prices by 8.6% while simultaneously raising prices in the UK by 4%, a clear signal that tariff aftershocks, currency swings, and gold prices are still reshaping how the most powerful brands think about global pricing. It’s a reminder that even at the very top of the pyramid, pricing strategy remains fluid—and collectors paying attention may find unexpected opportunities depending on geography.
Awards season also gave watches their annual moment in the cultural spotlight, with the 2026 Grammy Awards doubling as a very public watch exhibition. From Kendrick Lamar’s diamond-set Cartier Tank Américaine to Jamie Foxx’s over-the-top Jacob & Co. complications, the red carpet reinforced how watches have evolved from borrowed accessories into personal statements. The deeper feature roundup expanded that view, layering in heavyweight appearances from Hublot, Audemars Piguet, and more gem-heavy spectacle than subtlety, underscoring how high jewelry watches continue to thrive in celebrity culture.
On the heritage front, the deep dive into Minerva’s history was a welcome reminder of why Montblanc’s quiet ownership of one of the great chronograph manufactures still matters, while an interview with Greubel Forsey CEO Michel Nydegger offered a thoughtful look at how ultra-high-end independents are balancing creativity, sustainability, and continuity in a post-founder era. That conversation pairs well with today’s broader exploration of the “golden age” of grand complications, where brands like Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and Blancpain continue to push mechanical ambition well beyond anything resembling practicality.
New watches covered a wide spectrum today, from the playful hand-painted Bulova Super Seville Risky Riches by IFL Watches, to the ultra-rare and eye-wateringly expensive Louis Vuitton × De Bethune LVDB-03 project, which blurs the line between watchmaking, clockmaking, and art. At the more grounded end of the scale, Oak & Oscar kept its experimental streak alive with the Humboldt ExP-02, Seiko refreshed its fan-favorite Speedtimer chronographs with new colors, and Sero introduced a classically proportioned Signature Collection aimed squarely at traditionalists who still want modern reliability.
Reviews and comparisons leaned practical, with hands-on coverage of Papar’s lightweight Cenote diver and thoughtful rundowns of reliable tool watches under $500, plus a fresh batch of microbrand recommendations for February that reinforce just how crowded—and creative—the affordable end of the market has become. Video-wise, today’s lineup ranged from polished deep dives into the Louis Vuitton × De Bethune collaboration to intentionally provocative opinion pieces questioning everything from Rolex’s appeal to the value of buying new watches at all.
Finally, today’s auction spotlight belongs to the Vacheron Constantin Harmony Dual Time 260th Anniversary, a cushion-cased anniversary piece that feels increasingly underappreciated as bidding sits at $15,200 ahead of tonight’s close. It’s a fitting closer for a day that balanced big-brand economics, cultural flash, serious horology, and the quiet appeal of buying something because you actually want to wear it.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
Patek Philippe cuts prices in USA and hikes them in UK
Patek Philippe has announced an 8.6% price reduction in the United States while simultaneously increasing prices by 4% in the UK. This adjustment comes after the Geneva watchmaker previously raised prices in response to a 39% tariff imposed on Swiss watches entering the U.S., which was enacted in August. The shifts in pricing reflect ongoing challenges in the luxury watch market, influenced by external factors such as fluctuating tariffs, the declining value of the U.S. dollar, and rising gold prices. Patek Philippe’s decision to harmonize prices across markets aims to address significant disparities, which were previously over $10,000 for certain models.
9 Of The Best Watches At The 2026 Grammy Awards
At the 2026 Grammy Awards, the focus shifted from music to style, with standout wristwatches making a significant impact on the red carpet. Celebrities showcased their personalities through their timepieces, with notable examples including Shaboozey in a stunning Piaget Polo 79 Two Tone and Kendrick Lamar wearing a luxurious Cartier Tank Américaine adorned with diamonds. Several celebrities displayed a strong connection to their chosen watches, indicating a departure from treating them as mere accessories for a single event. The evening underscored the evolution of wristwatches from simple fashion statements to personal expressions of style and identity among the stars.
Feature Time
The 15 Best Watches at the Grammys, From Kendrick’s Cartier to Jamie Foxx’s Jacob & Co.
The 68th annual Grammy Awards showcased a dazzling array of extravagant watches on the red carpet, with celebrities flaunting impressive timepieces. Kendrick Lamar, the evening’s standout winner, sported a diamond-encrusted Cartier Tank Américaine while accepting his five awards. Other notable appearances included John Legend and Wyclef Jean, both wearing Hublot Big Bang watches adorned with diamonds, while Jamie Foxx showcased a Jacob & Co. Bugatti-inspired tourbillon. Among the standout timepieces were Rauw Alejandro’s million-dollar Jacob & Co. Caviar Tourbillon and J Balvin’s Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin, embellished with 1,528 yellow sapphires.
Minerva, the History of the Montblanc Gem
Minerva, a brand renowned among collectors, has a rich history that dates back nearly 170 years, now under the ownership of Montblanc. Originally founded by brothers Charles-Yvan and Hippolyte Robert in 1858 in Villeret, Minerva began by sourcing movements but took a pioneering step in 1902 by manufacturing its own calibres and specializing in chronographs. After remaining family-owned for decades, Minerva was acquired by an investment fund in 2000, and later by Richemont, becoming Montblanc’s Centre of Excellence for Movements and Innovations. Recent collections, such as the Unveiled Secret and Unveiled Timekeeper, exemplify Minerva’s commitment to combining tradition with modern advancements, maintaining its status as a prestigious name in high-end horology.
Interview: Grebuel Frosey CEO Michel Nydegger On What Lies Ahead For The Brand
Michel Nydegger, the CEO of Greubel Forsey, emphasizes a management philosophy that fosters creativity among the brand’s talented team rather than traditional oversight. With a focus on sustainability and meaningful contributions to watchmaking, Nydegger encourages collective discussion to inform brand priorities. Despite Stephen Forsey stepping back from daily operations, the brand’s strategy remains unchanged, continuing to produce about 200 meticulously handcrafted watches each year. Looking ahead, Nydegger hints at an exciting new project in collaboration with the Time Aeon Foundation, aimed at preserving watchmaking knowledge and promoting dialogue among craftsmen, signaling a commitment to innovation and community within the industry.
The Golden Age of very Grand Complications
The article explores the current golden age of highly complicated wristwatches, which are equipped with features like grandes sonneries, split-seconds mechanisms, and astronomical displays. These watches, comprising over 1,000 components and multiple functions, cater to a niche market of wealthy collectors who appreciate the artistry and technical mastery involved in their creation. Recent years have seen brands such as Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, and Blancpain introduce remarkable models that showcase a variety of complications, including Vacheron Constantin’s Solaria Ultra Grand Complication with its 17 astronomical indications. This surge in innovation reflects a period of unprecedented growth and desirability in the watchmaking industry, driven by technological advancements, an increase in wealth among the top earners, and a competitive spirit among luxury brands.
Editorial Time
Rolex and Audemars Piguet will be tested this year
The demand for luxury watch brands Rolex and Audemars Piguet is anticipated to face significant challenges in 2026, following a market correction that began in 2022. The aggressive trading behavior of certain buyers, likened to speculative investments in Bitcoin, has diminished, leading to a quieter market. Current data indicates that while some models still retain value, many others have seen substantial declines in resale potential, with the average profit margin for Rolex watches dropping significantly. It is believed that 2026 will be a critical year for these brands, necessitating innovative product offerings and strategic marketing to stimulate sales and maintain profitability across all price ranges.
The Latest Time
IFL Watches
IFL Watches Introduces The Bulova Super Seville Risky Riches
IFL Watches has launched the Bulova Super Seville Risky Riches, a limited edition watch that captures the spirit of bold moves and the potential for great rewards. Inspired by the saying “fortune favors the bold,” the hand-painted dial features a whimsical Monopoly-esque character transforming letters into gold, surrounded by symbols of wealth like flying bills and tumbling coins. With only 300 pieces available, this watch combines vibrant artwork with a retro-styled stainless steel case and is powered by the Bulova NM10 Precisionist movement, priced at $1,190.
Louis Vuitton
The Louis Vuitton X De Bethune LVDB-03 Louis Varius Project Is A Star Studded Collaboration For A Wild Watch And Clock
The Louis Vuitton X De Bethune LVDB-03 Louis Varius Project showcases a remarkable collaboration resulting in a limited edition travel watch and two exquisite Sympathique clocks. Unveiled in Tokyo, the LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius is available in just 12 pieces and features a unique titanium design that integrates advanced mechanisms for optimal functionality, with a manually wound De Bethune movement offering a five-day power reserve. The LVDB-03 Sympathique Louis Varius clocks, limited to just two units, elevate the experience further with their artistic design and functionality, made from titanium with meteorite marquetry. The entire project reflects a blend of Louis Vuitton’s luxury heritage and De Bethune’s innovative watchmaking, with prices starting at approximately $395,000 for the watch and reaching approximately $4,220,000 for the complete set.
Oak & Oscar
Introducing: Oak & Oscar’s Humboldt ExP-02 Keeps Their Experimental Series Going Strong
Oak & Oscar is launching the Humboldt ExP-02, a limited edition watch with only 20 pieces available through a lottery system. This experimental watch, designed by the Chicago-based team, features a 39.5mm stainless steel case and is powered by a Sellita SW300 movement, with a unique sandwich dial made from aluminum, meticulously crafted in-house, offering water resistance of up to 200 meters. The watch is priced at $2,550, with ten pieces reserved for current brand owners and ten available to the general public. The lottery for purchasing will close at 11:59 PM Central Time on February 3, 2026.
Patek Philippe
Off-Catalogue No More: Patek Philippe Reveals Gem-Set Nautilus Collection
Patek Philippe has expanded its offerings to include a range of previously off-catalogue haute joaillerie models, reinforcing its commitment to the luxury gem-set watch segment. Notable among these is the gem-set Nautilus collection, which features variations of the discontinued ref. 5711, each adorned with a gem-set bezel and baguette-cut hour markers, with notable differences in carat weight depending on the type of stones used, ranging from white diamonds to emeralds. The collection includes the ref. 5723 presented in rose gold, and the most complex model, ref. 5990, showcases a lavish design with a significant number of diamonds and additional colored stones, commanding prices that reach over $2 million.
Seiko
Seiko’s Most Popular Affordable Chronograph Just Got a Colorful Upgrade
Seiko is introducing three new solar chronographs in the Speedtimer lineup for 2026, namely the SSC961, SSC963, and SSC965, which are not limited editions and are designed for long-term production. Each watch features a 39mm stainless steel case and matching bracelets, with the key distinguishing feature being their dials: the SSC961 has a silver dial, the SSC963 offers a warm salmon tone, and the SSC965 presents a contemporary surf green. All models are powered by Seiko’s V192 solar quartz movement, ensuring convenience with no need for battery changes, and feature durability with a curved sapphire crystal and 10 bar water resistance. Pricing is anticipated to be in the $700-$800 range.
Sero
The Sero Watch Company Signature Collection
The Sero Watch Company has introduced its Signature Collection, which aims to combine classic design with modern mechanics. Inspired by dress watches from the 1930s to 1950s, the Signature features a compact stainless steel case measuring 37.5mm in diameter and 9.5mm in height, with water resistance of 100m and a choice of four dial colors—Silver, Champagne, Blue, and Red. The watch is powered by the Sellita SW-210-1B movement, known for its reliability and ease of servicing, boasting a power reserve of 45 hours. Sales will begin at the end of Q1 2026, with introductory pricing starting at approximately $950 for the first 150 orders.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Hands-On With The Angular Papar Cenote Titanium + Blue And Rose Gold Titanium
Papar Watch Co. has introduced its latest dive watch, the Angular Papar Cenote Titanium + Blue and Rose Gold Titanium, showcasing a unique design that builds on the brand’s previous model, the Anillo GMT. This limited-edition watch features a 40mm titanium case with a ceramic bezel and offers a water resistance of up to 200 meters, weighing only 60 grams. The watch is powered by a Miyota movement and includes a color-changing date disc, available in two distinct colorways: the Titanium + Blue version with a dynamic gradient dial and striking blue sailcloth strap, and the Rose Gold Titanium variant with polished accents and sunset-colored dial. Priced at $995, the Cenote offers an intriguing blend of modern design and traditional watchmaking.
Comparing Time
Five Affordable Tool Watches You Can Rely On — Under $500
The piece highlights five affordable tool watches, each priced under $500, that combine functionality, durability, and style. The selections include the Spinnaker Fleuss Automatic “Nessie Pearl” Diver with a striking mother-of-pearl dial, the Caravelle by Bulova Sea Hunter Diver with vintage design, and the Timex × Worn & Wound WW75 V4 Limited Edition inspired by military field watches. The Citizen Promaster Navihawk stands out for its aviation-inspired design with an Eco-Drive movement, while the Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz represents classic field watches with clean aesthetics and quartz reliability. Each watch is presented as a viable choice for those seeking quality timepieces without exceeding their budget.
Oracle Recommends: Microbrand Watches for February 2026
The summary highlights several unique microbrand watches recommended for February 2026, including the Avi-8 P-51 Mustang Tuskegee Airman 85th Anniversary watch honoring legendary African American pilots of WWII, limited to 400 pieces at $350. Notable selections include the Ixdao Warrior with its intricate mother-of-pearl dial at $369, the OLTO-8 Chrono Gate offering an inventive twist on the jump hour format at $589, and the Enchant Canadian Nord capturing Canada’s landscapes with a striking green sunburst dial, priced at approximately $2,800 and limited to 25 pieces. The Vario Versa 2 presents a playful reimagining of the classic reversible watch, offering a choice between two vibrant colors for approximately $420, limited to 100 pieces each.
Watching Time - Videos
Louis Vuitton × De Bethune LVDB-03 — Louis Varius Project
The Louis Vuitton × De Bethune collaboration, specifically the LVDB-03 model, represents a unique fusion of luxury fashion and high-end watchmaking as part of the Louis Varius Project. Scheduled for release on February 3, 2026, this project showcases the innovative spirit of both brands, blending meticulous craftsmanship with avant-garde design. This partnership not only highlights the artistic synergy between Louis Vuitton and De Bethune but also sets a new benchmark in the world of luxury timepieces, with the accompanying video providing a visual exploration of the intricate details and inspirations behind the creation of the LVDB-03.
DONT BUY WATCHES NEW / Co-Axial is Dumb / Rolex is BORING / German Watches = BETTER Q&A
The video challenges conventional views on watch purchasing and preferences, critiquing the Co-Axial movement and expressing a strong opinion against Rolex watches, deeming them unexciting. The discussion promotes German watches as superior alternatives, likely highlighting their craftsmanship, reliability, and unique appeal. Set to be published on February 3, 2026, the video aims to engage viewers by offering a fresh perspective on the watch industry, providing a platform for questions and answers while encouraging audience interaction and addressing common misconceptions about popular watch brands and movements.
Denis Flageollet and Jean Arnault on The Louis Vuitton x De Bethune LVDB-03 Louis Various Project
Denis Flageollet and Jean Arnault discuss the innovative collaboration between Louis Vuitton and De Bethune, focusing on the LVDB-03 Louis Various Project. This project highlights the fusion of high fashion and fine watchmaking, showcasing the craftsmanship and artistic vision of both brands, aiming to redefine luxury by combining traditional watchmaking techniques with contemporary design aesthetics. The conversation delves into the creative process behind the project, emphasizing the meticulous attention to detail that characterizes both Louis Vuitton and De Bethune, revealing insights into how the collaboration pushes the boundaries of timepiece design.
These Are the Only Watches Worth Buying Under $500 in 2026
In 2026, there is a focus on affordable watches that deliver quality and style without breaking the bank. The selection includes various timepieces under $500 that cater to different tastes and preferences, ensuring there is something for everyone looking to enhance their collection without overspending. The featured watches are noted for their durability, design, and functionality, making them ideal choices for both casual wear and formal occasions, with an emphasis on smart investments in timepieces that combine affordability with reliability.
Affordable Swiss Watch Alternatives Worth Your Money in 2026
In 2026, consumers seeking affordable alternatives to Swiss watches are presented with a variety of options that offer exceptional quality without the hefty price tag. These timepieces capture the essence of Swiss craftsmanship while providing features and designs that appeal to a broad audience, prioritizing durability, precision, and style. As the market evolves, several brands have emerged showcasing innovative designs and reliable performance, incorporating high-quality materials and advanced technology, making them worthy contenders against traditional Swiss watches.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Monday’s auction watch, the 2025 Patek Philippe Calatrava 40MM Silver Dial Leather Strap (5212A-001) - was bid to $32,400 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
Vacheron Constantin Harmony 260th Anniversary 40MM Silver Dial Leather Strap (7810S/000R-B051)
Auction Report: The Anniversary Cushion With a Travel Bug: Vacheron Constantin Harmony Dual Time (7810S/000R-B051)
If you like your modern dress watches with a little 1920s attitude—and an anniversary backstory—this Vacheron Constantin Harmony Dual Time is exactly that. Launched for the brand’s 260th anniversary in 2015 as part of the Harmony collection revival, the 7810S/000R-B051 leans hard into the cushion-case silhouette and vintage-inspired typography, but backs it up with a thoroughly contemporary, in-house dual-time movement. The case is 40mm (with the signature Harmony “cushion” proportions), in pink/rose gold, paired to a silvered dial with blue Arabic numerals—an intentionally old-world look that still reads crisp on the wrist.
Under the hood is Vacheron’s automatic Calibre 2460 DT family, built around practical travel functionality (second time zone plus day/night indication), and the Harmony line is notably Geneva Seal/Hallmark of Geneva certified—important because it signals finishing and provenance standards that collectors actually care about when they’re paying “Vacheron money” for something that isn’t a perpetual calendar. One of the more collector-friendly details from the model’s launch coverage: the movement was engineered so settings can be handled via the crown without the usual “don’t do that or you’ll break it” anxiety that sometimes accompanies complicated travel watches.
Now, the listing details matter: the seller calls it “very good,” and it includes papers dated 2015, but no boxes. In the real world, papers do most of the heavy lifting for confidence and future resale, while missing boxes are usually a nuisance discount rather than a deal-killer—unless the buyer is building a “full set only” collection. Still, on a limited anniversary piece, completeness can influence bidder psychology, so expect some buyers to price in the hassle of sourcing the correct packaging later (or simply accepting it will never be a perfect kit). For what it’s worth, major public auction records show these have traded credibly when they are complete: Christie’s sold an example (noted with box and papers) for $25,000 in December 2020, against a $12,000–$18,000 estimate—an instructive reminder that Harmony remains a “quietly serious” line that can outperform expectations when two bidders decide they want this shape, this anniversary story, and this brand on the dial.
As for current value, the market is telling a fairly consistent story: WatchCharts pegs the model’s market price around the high-$19K range (with the model listed as discontinued), while Chrono24 listings commonly cluster in the low-to-mid $20Ks, with some asking higher depending on set completeness and seller posture. In plain English: “market” and “retail-ish asking” still aren’t the same thing, and missing box typically pushes you toward the market side of the conversation—unless the watch is exceptionally clean, freshly serviced, or the auction dynamics get emotional.
My bid logic here is simple. This reference is attractive because it offers real Vacheron design DNA (that cushion case does not look like everyone else’s round dress watch), a legitimate anniversary context, and a useful complication without becoming precious or fragile. The risk isn’t authenticity (papers help), it’s liquidity and taste: Harmony is a connoisseur’s line, not an “easy flip” sports watch, so you want to buy it because you actually want to wear it. If you do, a strong result can still be rational—just don’t pay a “full set” price for a “watch + papers” package, and remember that a 2015-dated piece may eventually invite a service conversation if there’s no recent documentation.
The auction ends tonight, Tuesday, February 3, 2026 at 11:00pm ET. If the current bid is already pressing into the low-to-mid $20Ks without the boxes, I’d be cautious. If it’s sitting closer to the “market” number and the condition really is as strong as described, this is the kind of Vacheron that can feel like you outsmarted the room—quietly, and with excellent taste.
Current bid: $15,200