BuyingTime Daily - February 27, 2026
Chrono24 eyes U.S. dominance, Swatch flexes $3.6B in gold, new drops from IWC to Ressence, and big debates on COSC & the 5712. The watch world isn’t slowing down.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Friday, February 27, 2026 finds the secondary market once again flexing its muscles as Chrono24 sets its sights squarely on the United States. With a new chief growth officer in place and ambitions to surpass eBay in the luxury watch segment by 2029, Chrono24 is doubling down on dealer relationships, buyer trust, and its “Certified” authentication program. In other words, liquidity, legitimacy, and a land grab for American wrists. For an industry increasingly driven by digital-first transactions, platform wars are no longer background noise—they are the business model.
Meanwhile, Swatch Group is reminding everyone that it doesn’t just make watches, it practically hoards bullion. The group reportedly holds 21.8 tons of gold—valued at roughly $3.66 billion—representing close to a third of its market capitalization. Activist pressure continues, but management is pointing to stronger second-half 2025 performance and a solid start to 2026, with volume brands like Tissot and Hamilton gaining traction in China. When you own that much gold, volatility starts to look like inventory management.
In industry culture news, eBay steps in as headline partner for WatchPro’s inaugural Women in Watches event in New York, signaling that marketplace platforms increasingly want to be seen not just as transaction hubs, but as ecosystem stakeholders. With panels, networking, and a formal recognition list launching ahead of International Women’s Day, it is another sign the industry is widening its lens beyond product launches.
Feature coverage dives deep into heritage and reinvention. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Made of Makers collaboration blends Middle Eastern photography and AI-generated reinterpretation in a thoughtful meditation on continuity, very much in the spirit of the Reverso. On the analytical side, the case is made that the Patek Philippe 5712 may actually be the Nautilus that matters more than the 5711, thanks to its asymmetric dial, moonphase, power reserve, and mechanical nuance. Complexity over hype is the thesis—and it is not entirely wrong.
Opinion this Friday questions whether the new COSC Excellence Chronometer Certification is innovation or catch-up. With brands like Rolex, Omega, and others already running proprietary standards, COSC’s new benchmark may matter most to smaller independents seeking third-party credibility in an online marketplace that runs on trust signals.
Event-wise, Audemars Piguet museum director Sébastian Vivas lectures at the Horological Society of New York tonight, offering archival perspective on heritage strategy, while Citizen prepares to celebrate 50 years of Eco-Drive at its New York flagship—proof that innovation stories can age well when powered by light.
As for new releases, it’s a packed slate. Dryden refreshes its Chrono Diver with vintage skin-diver cues and mecha-quartz pragmatism under $500. IWC delivers a stealth Portugieser Chronograph in Ceratanium, preserving classic proportions while darkening the mood. Raymond Weil adds tuxedo dials to the Millesime Small Seconds, sharpening vintage elegance around the $2,000 mark. Ressence goes poetic with the Type 9 IKE, a lacquered, celestial limited edition of just eight pieces. Sinn updates the 903 in grade five titanium for its 65th anniversary, Timex leans into ice-blue Daytona energy at approachable prices, and Tissot pushes motorsport theatrics with its MotoGP limited edition.
On the review bench, Breguet’s Expérimentale 1 makes a six-figure technical statement with a magnetic escapement and 10 Hz movement architecture that feels like a laboratory flex. At the other end of the spectrum, Hamilton’s Khaki Field Mechanical Lancaster Exclusive Edition honors hometown roots with brick-red nuance and 80 hours of hand-wound practicality.
Video coverage spans existential debates and buying guides. Doug questions the myth of the “go anywhere, do anything” watch, Fratello tackles whether heritage is becoming a marketing crutch, and Subdial argues for a particular Nautilus interpretation as the one that truly matters. There’s also candid collector therapy from The 1916 Company, a Ceratanium deep dive interview from Revolution with IWC, value-hunting around the $500 bracket, independent brand storytelling, and a curated “Top 3 Watches To Buy in 2026” shortlist for anyone needing decisional clarity.
At auction, Thursday’s Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date Ocean Breeze was bid to $16,250 but failed to meet reserve—proof that even strong modern German chronographs are not immune to buyer discipline. Attention now shifts to the 2022 Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 “Coral Red,” currently at $10,250 with bidding closing tomorrow afternoon, February 28 at 1:36 pm. Bright lacquer, full set, and that brief moment when the Crown decided subtlety was optional. Late bids would not surprise.
Another day in the watch universe: bullion balance sheets, certification debates, stealth chronographs, lacquered art pieces, and a coral dial that still refuses to whisper.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
Chrono24 sets sights on US market for growth
Chrono24 is making a major push to expand in the US, positioning it as the company’s key growth market after the departure of global CEO Carsten Keller. New chief growth officer José Gaztelu is focused on strengthening relationships with both buyers and sellers to deepen platform liquidity and trust. The company’s stated ambition is to become the leading luxury watch trading platform in the US and to surpass eBay in that segment by 2029. Recent senior hires are aimed at accelerating partnerships, dealer relationships, and the rollout of Chrono24’s “Certified” authentication program.
Swatch Group owns gold valued at $3.66 billion
Swatch Group is drawing renewed attention amid criticism from activist investor Steven Wood, as questions continue about whether the company is maximizing its potential under the Hayek family’s leadership. While annual sales dipped slightly, Swatch reported stronger performance in the second half of 2025 and a solid start to 2026, with management highlighting ongoing investment in manufacturing and workforce flexibility. A major headline figure is the group’s reported 21.8 tons of gold, valued at roughly $3.66 billion, representing close to a third of its market value. The story also notes momentum in volume brands, including growth in markets like China for names such as Tissot and Hamilton.
eBay supports WatchPro’s industry initiative as Women in Watches headline partner
eBay has signed on as headline sponsor for WatchPro’s inaugural Women in Watches event, set to take place in New York on March 6, 2026. The event is designed to spotlight women’s contributions across the watch industry and is timed for the week leading into International Women’s Day. Programming includes networking over breakfast and two panel discussions focused on career paths and experiences within the sector. The initiative also serves as the launch moment for WatchPro’s annual “Women in Watches” list, intended to recognize leading women in the industry.
Feature Time
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Made of Makers gets a Middle Eastern soul
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s “Made of Makers” program teamed up with Emirati photographer Hussain Al Moosawi and Saudi AI artist Mona Algwaiz for a project titled “Bridge in Time.” Al Moosawi’s photography captures traditional Middle Eastern design elements, which Algwaiz then reinterprets into speculative digital environments using AI. Together, the work explores how cultural heritage can be preserved while also being transformed through new technology. The collaboration mirrors the Reverso’s core idea of continuity and evolution, showing past and present existing side by side.
Perspective: The Patek Philippe Reference 5712—The Nautilus That Matters More
The Patek Philippe 5712 is presented as the more mechanically compelling counterpart to the better-known 5711, offering a deeper look at Patek’s craft. Introduced in 2006, it pairs an offbeat but elegant dial layout with complications including a power reserve indicator, moon phase, and date. The piece has tended to attract collectors who value movement complexity and design nuance over mainstream recognition. As the Nautilus approaches its 50th anniversary, the continued presence of the rose-gold 5712/1R underscores the model’s staying power and hints at how the line may evolve next.
Opinion Time
Is the COSC Excellence Chronometer Certification late to the party?
The new COSC Excellence Chronometer Certification is being positioned as a more demanding standard, emphasizing tighter accuracy expectations and stronger anti-magnetism requirements. But the piece argues that many major brands have already moved beyond COSC with their own in-house certifications, making this feel more like COSC catching up than setting the pace. Even so, the new benchmark could still matter a lot for smaller brands that do not have proprietary testing programs. For those brands, an independent stamp can help build buyer confidence, especially in a digital-first sales environment.
Event Time
Happenings: Sébastian Vivas To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
Sébastian Vivas, director of the Audemars Piguet Museum, is scheduled to speak at the Horological Society of New York in March 2026. The talk will explore Audemars Piguet’s history through the lens of the brand’s archives, including how research, restoration principles, and auction strategy shape heritage work. It will also cover how major anniversary exhibitions and publications are developed, and how the museum supports the brand’s long-term legacy. The event takes place February 27, 2026 at the General Society Library in Midtown Manhattan, with limited seating.
Happenings: Celebrate 50 Years Of Eco-Drive At Citizen’s New York City Flagship Store
Citizen is marking 50 years of Eco-Drive, the light-powered technology that has been central to the brand’s innovation story since its early development in the 1970s. The celebration is set for March 18, 2025 at the Citizen Flagship Store in New York, and it is framed as both a look back at the technology’s impact and a discussion of what comes next. The program includes a panel conversation with guests from across the company and industry, offering a deeper view into Eco-Drive’s evolution and future direction. Attendance is limited, and RSVP is required via email.
The Latest Time
Dryden
Dryden Introduces Updates to the Chrono Diver Collection
Dryden’s Chrono Diver Gen 2 leans into a vintage skin-diver look from the 1960s and 1970s, but updates the package with a cleaner 42mm case, solid end links, and recessed pushers. The new lineup focuses on more muted, “worn-in” colorways like Black Vintage, PVD Vintage with warm-toned markers, and a Blue Panda variant. Specs stay practical, with a screw-down crown, double-domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating, and 100m water resistance, powered by the Seiko VK63 mecha-quartz. Pricing is $450 for the Blue Panda and Black Vintage, and $475 for the PVD Vintage.
IWC
First Look: The new IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium
IWC gives the Portugieser Chronograph a stealthier, more technical personality with a matte Ceratanium case and an all-black palette, while keeping the familiar 41mm shape and classic proportions. Inside is the in-house calibre 69355, running at 4Hz with roughly a 46-hour power reserve, paired to a textured black rubber strap. The tradeoff for the monochrome styling is reduced contrast on the dial, which can impact legibility. The listed price is about $17,464 (EUR 14,800) or about $16,770 (CHF 13,000), depending on market.
Raymond Weil
Raymond Weil Adds a Trio of Tuxedo Dials to its Millesime Small Seconds 39mm
Raymond Weil expands the Millesime Small Seconds 39mm with three tuxedo-style dials that mix vintage cues with a crisp, modern finish, including cream, brushed midnight blue, and a deeper red option. The design keeps the collection’s retro-leaning case details like the flat bezel and box-shaped sapphire, while adding strong legibility via luminous Arabic numerals and hands. Power comes from the Sellita SW261-1 automatic movement, and the watches are offered on calf straps with an optional steel bracelet. Pricing is listed as $2,295 USD, or about $2,677 (CHF 2,075) or about $2,655 (EUR 2,250), depending on region.
Ressence
Embark Upon a Space Odyssey with the Ressence Type 9 IKE
The Ressence Type 9 IKE is a highly limited collaboration with Japanese artist Terumasa Ikeda, pairing Ressence’s distinctive rotating display with a convex dial finished in traditional Japanese lacquer and mother-of-pearl inlays. The watch comes in a compact 39mm black DLC-coated titanium case, and the orbital-style time display is designed to feel like a set of celestial bodies in motion. It runs on a customized automatic movement beating at 28,800 vph with a 36-hour power reserve. Only eight pieces are planned, priced at about $41,389 (CHF 32,000).
Sinn
The Sinn 903 Returns in Titanium, Updating an Iconic Design
Sinn marks its 65th anniversary by bringing back the 903, a pilot’s chronograph known for its internal slide-rule bezel and a more intricate, “luxury tool” personality than most of the brand’s lineup. The new 903 Ti II Anniversary leans into that legacy while staying grounded in Sinn’s engineering-first reputation and accessible positioning. Titanium returns in a meaningful way here, using grade five titanium to keep the feel bright and substantial while reducing weight versus steel. The piece emphasizes continuity with the late-1970s design rights history while updating materials for a more modern wear experience.
Timex
This Affordable Timex Chronograph Is Giving Serious Ice Blue Daytona Energy
Timex’s Waterbury Heritage Chronograph gets an “Ice Blue” treatment that leans into a popular collector color trend, using a sunburst dial to make the inexpensive quartz chrono feel more elevated. It keeps the familiar Waterbury formula with a stainless case, fixed tachymeter bezel, and a balanced bicompax layout intended for easy daily wear. Buyers can choose between an H-link steel bracelet or a perforated brown leather racing strap, depending on the look they want. Pricing is $349 on bracelet or $299 on leather.
Tissot
ITissot T-Race MotoGP Automatic Chronograph 2026 Limited Edition
This limited-edition Tissot T-Race MotoGP automatic chronograph leans hard into motorsport design, with a 45mm steel case, black PVD bezel, and detailing meant to echo motorcycle engineering like cooling-fin textures and oversized pushers. The openworked dial puts the movement front and center and includes a tachymeter scale plus luminous hands for sport-watch usability. The watch is powered by the Valjoux A05.951, and it is limited to 2,026 pieces, delivered on a red rubber strap in helmet-themed packaging. Price is about $2,535 (CHF 1,965).
Wearing Time - Reviews
Breguet
Hands On: Breguet Expérimentale 1
Breguet’s Expérimentale 1 is positioned as a major technical statement, built around a contactless magnetic escapement designed to stabilize amplitude and eliminate the need for lubrication. The watch pairs that innovation with a bold, modern execution in a 43.5mm 18k gold case, along with a regulator-style display and a prominent tourbillon. It also keeps a surprisingly practical 100m water resistance while running a high-frequency, manual-wind movement at 10 Hz. The piece is limited to 75 watches and is priced at CHF 320,000, with the long-term significance likely tied to whether the technology spreads into future Breguet collections.
Hamilton
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Lancaster Exclusive Edition Watch Review: Honoring The Brand’s Historic Hometown
Hamilton’s Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm Lancaster Exclusive Edition leans into the brand’s Pennsylvania roots, using a red brick-toned dial as a subtle nod to Lancaster’s local architecture. The watch stays true to the utilitarian Khaki Field spirit with a stainless steel case, 50m water resistance, and two NATO straps included. Inside is the H-50 hand-wound movement, delivering an 80-hour power reserve that makes it especially practical for a daily-wear field watch. It is priced at $745 and is only available through the Hamilton boutique in Lancaster, reinforcing the “destination purchase” nature of the release.
Watching Time - Videos
The Problem With “Go Anywhere, Do Anything” Watches - YouTube - Doug’s Watches
This video looks at the promise behind so-called “go anywhere, do anything” watches, and why that marketing pitch can break down in real life. It explores how trying to be universally capable often forces tradeoffs that show up in comfort, durability, readability, or overall user experience. The takeaway is that versatility is rarely unlimited, and it matters to match a watch to the actual situations it will be used in. It encourages viewers to think more critically about what “one watch for everything” really means.
Fratello Talks: Is Heritage Overused and Overrated? - YouTube - Fratello
This discussion takes on the industry’s constant reliance on “heritage” as a selling point and asks whether the concept is being stretched too far. It frames heritage as both a genuine source of identity and a convenient shortcut that can crowd out new ideas if overused. By weighing both sides, the conversation pushes viewers to consider what authenticity should look like today. The broader point is that heritage only has value when it is backed by substance, not just repeated in branding.
Building an Independent Watch Brand with Meaning | Ed Margulies (Split) - YouTube - The Micro Collector
Ed Margulies talks through what it takes to build an independent brand that stands for something beyond product specs. The video emphasizes that storytelling, purpose, and a real connection with customers can be the difference between being noticed and being forgotten in a crowded market. It also highlights the pressure independents face to stay authentic while still building a viable business. The core theme is that meaning and craftsmanship work best together when they are communicated clearly and consistently.
Now, THIS is a Nautilus | Drop #266 - YouTube - Subdial
This video is positioned as a focused take on what makes a Nautilus feel truly compelling, beyond the hype that surrounds the model line. It aims to spotlight specific details and choices that elevate certain Nautilus references or executions over others. The framing suggests a strong point of view, intended to spark discussion among enthusiasts who care about nuance, not just status. Overall, it is presented as a “this is the one” style of argument for a particular Nautilus interpretation.
Watches We Regret Selling and When is it OK to Wear an Oversized Watch? - YouTube - The 1916 Company
This episode digs into the emotional side of collecting, focusing on why certain watches become painful to part with after the fact. It connects regret to memories, milestones, and the way a watch can become tied to identity over time. It then shifts to the style and practicality of oversized watches, offering context for when larger cases make sense and when they can feel out of place. The result is a mix of personal reflection and practical guidance for collectors making decisions.
Unboxing Christopher Ward Pan Am - YouTube - Random Rob
This unboxing centers on the full “first experience” of a Christopher Ward watch, from packaging to the watch’s initial on-wrist impression. It highlights presentation details that shape perceived quality and can influence a buying decision before anyone even talks about specs. The video also serves as a visual reference for finishing, design choices, and how the watch looks in normal lighting. It is geared toward viewers who want a straightforward, real-world look at the piece before buying.
IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium — Interview with CDO Christian Knoop - YouTube - Revolution Watch
This interview features IWC design leadership explaining the thinking behind the Portugieser Chronograph in Ceratanium. It focuses on how the material choice is intended to blend lightweight wearability with a harder, more scratch-resistant surface, while keeping the watch’s look cohesive. The conversation also touches on the balance between function and aesthetics when updating a familiar design language. The goal is to give viewers a clearer sense of why Ceratanium matters beyond being an all-black styling choice.
Did Seiko Just Release Their Best $500 Watch? - YouTube - Six Inch Wrists Talks Watches
This video makes the case that Seiko may have hit a sweet spot in the market with a new release positioned around the $500 level. It walks through what the watch delivers in terms of design, specification, and build quality, and why that combination feels unusually strong for the price. The review also frames the release against what competitors offer in the same bracket. The overall tone is “value discovery,” aimed at buyers looking for maximum watch per dollar.
This Brand You Never Heard of Just Made an Affordable Watch Out of a Very Rare Material - YouTube - WatchChris
This video spotlights a lesser-known brand that is trying to stand out by using an uncommon material while keeping the final watch relatively affordable. It focuses on how material choice can shift the perceived “luxury” equation, even without a famous name on the dial. The content also emphasizes production details and craftsmanship as the differentiator, not just novelty. The pitch is that the brand is expanding what buyers can realistically access in terms of design and materials.
How Stories Build the Perfect Watch Collection - YouTube - ᴢᴇʀᴏ ᴛᴏ ꜱɪxᴛʏ
This video argues that the best collections are shaped less by checklists and more by personal stories and lived experiences. It frames each watch as a marker of taste, memory, and identity, which is why certain pieces matter more than their market value. It also encourages collectors to learn the backstories and craftsmanship behind watches as a way to deepen connection and enjoyment. The overall message is that meaning is what turns a group of watches into a real collection.
One Of A Kind - Venezianico Nereide Chimera Diver Watch Review - YouTube - 24Hours At A Time
This review focuses on the Venezianico Nereide Chimera as a diver that aims to stand out through distinctive design and finishing. It highlights practical dive-watch considerations like durability and underwater reliability, while also treating the watch as a style statement rather than purely a tool. The video is structured to help potential buyers understand how the watch performs and wears in real conditions. It positions the Nereide Chimera as an option for someone who wants a diver that is not visually generic.
The Top 3 Watches To Buy In 2026 —] Pull The Crown - YouTube - Pull The Crown
This video is a curated “top picks” guide aimed at helping viewers prioritize watch purchases in 2026. It focuses on what makes each selected model stand out, from design and specification to broader market context. The framing suggests an emphasis on current trends and what might feel most compelling or relevant in the year ahead. It is designed to be a practical shortlist for collectors who want direction rather than endless options.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com
[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2023 Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date Ocean Breeze/ Rubber (1-37-02-13-02-63) - was bid to $16,250 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2022 Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 Coral Red (124300-0007)
Auction Report: Fire on the Wrist: 2022 Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 “Coral Red” (124300-0007) Heads to Auction
The 2022 Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 is not just another steel Rolex. It is a reminder of that brief, slightly unhinged moment when Rolex decided to turn the volume all the way up. Introduced in 2020 as part of the bold lacquer dial refresh of the Oyster Perpetual line, the Coral Red variant quickly became one of the most talked-about pieces in modern Rolex history. It took the brand’s most stripped-down, time-only platform and injected it with unapologetic color.
The 41mm Oystersteel case houses Rolex’s in-house caliber 3230, a no-date movement with Chronergy escapement, 70-hour power reserve, Parachrom hairspring, and the sort of quiet mechanical overengineering that has made Rolex the benchmark in industrial watchmaking. There are no complications here. No ceramic bezel. No rotating anything. Just three hands, luminous markers, and a dial that looks like it escaped from a mid-century design studio.
And that dial is the point. The Coral Red finish is not a sunburst, not matte, not timid. It is a saturated lacquer that reads somewhere between Ferrari and fire alarm depending on the light. When Rolex launched the colorful OP lineup—Turquoise, Yellow, Green, Candy Pink, and Coral Red—it felt like a calculated disruption of its own conservatism. Secondary market demand responded accordingly. Within months, these watches were trading at multiples of retail, with Coral Red often sitting near the top of the desirability ladder.
Production of several bright dial variants was reportedly curtailed after only a short run, which only amplified scarcity psychology. While Rolex never confirms such things, the market has treated Coral Red as a limited-in-practice reference. As a result, clean examples from 2021 and 2022 have consistently commanded premiums over their original retail price, often landing in the high teens to low twenties depending on condition and completeness.
This particular example checks nearly every collector box. It is a 2022 piece, offered unworn, with box, papers, folio, and wallet. The dial, hands, crystal, case, bezel, and bracelet are described as excellent, and the overall condition reflects a watch that has not seen wrist time beyond handling. In today’s Rolex ecosystem, “unworn full set” is effectively a currency of its own.
The Oyster bracelet and Oysterclasp maintain the tool-watch DNA, while the smooth bezel keeps the silhouette understated—at least until the dial catches your eye from across the room. It is a watch that does not whisper, but it does not need to shout either. The color does the talking.
From a market standpoint, the Coral Red OP 41 occupies an interesting niche. It is neither sports model nor precious metal flex. It is pure Rolex minimalism with a design-forward twist. As steel Daytona and GMT prices fluctuate with macro headlines, the brightly colored Oyster Perpetuals have settled into a more stable but still elevated tier. They remain highly liquid and broadly recognizable without being predictable.
The auction concludes Saturday, February 28 at 1:36 pm, and this is the kind of lot that tends to draw late attention. Clean, modern Rolex. Discontinued-feeling dial. Full set. U.S. location. The formula is familiar.
If you believe Rolex’s long game is about incremental evolution, the Coral Red OP 41 stands out as one of the rare moments when the Crown let personality lead. For collectors who missed the initial retail window, this may be the next best opportunity to secure one of the boldest time-only Rolex references of the past decade.
Tick tock.
Current bid: $10,250