BuyingTime Daily - February 26, 2026
Rolex’s CEO speaks, U.S. sales jump 20%, Morgan Stanley crowns Rolex & Cartier, bold new releases drop, and tech reshapes horology. February 26 is stacked.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
BuyingTime for Thursday February 26, 2026 feels like a study in contrasts: confidence at the top, pressure in the middle, and plenty of experimentation everywhere else. If there was a single thread tying the day together, it was the idea that the watch industry is simultaneously doubling down on tradition and quietly rewriting the rules behind the curtain.
The headline conversation belongs to Rolex, where CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour offered a carefully measured worldview that blends collaboration, competition, and just enough humility to sound reassuring. He framed smartwatches as a gateway drug rather than an existential threat and leaned heavily into trust, service, and the Rolex Certified Pre-Owned program as pillars for the future. Meanwhile, fresh data suggests American watch retail sales rose 20% in 2025, even as tariffs, gold prices, and currency fluctuations tried to rain on the parade. On the ground, luxury and “Prestige” tiers are humming, even if Swiss export numbers tell a flatter story. Add in Morgan Stanley’s Swiss Watcher report, which shows Rolex and Cartier widening the gap at the top, and it’s clear the industry’s premiumization strategy is no longer a theory—it’s a scoreboard.
Across the Atlantic, Inhorgenta Munich wrapped up a record-breaking 2026 edition with 900 exhibitors and more than 25,000 trade visitors, underscoring that trade shows still matter when craftsmanship takes center stage. From gemstone setting to watch assembly demos, the vibe was clear: old-school skills remain marketable, even as production becomes more technologically sophisticated.
Feature coverage this week reinforced that tension between heritage and innovation. Chronometers were celebrated as cultural artifacts of precision, a reminder that accuracy still carries emotional weight even in a world of atomic clocks in our pockets. At the same time, the rise of robotics, AI, and advanced manufacturing was framed not as the death of craft, but as its next evolution. We also toured the atelier of De Rijke & Co. for the new Capri, explored why wristwatches are becoming scarcer as brands cut production, revisited the enduring status of the Rolex Day-Date, and dove deep into design-forward names like Ressence and component innovation at Orient Star. Military watches, British releases, and the ongoing jump-hour resurgence rounded out a day that felt equal parts nostalgic and forward-looking.
On the new release front, the diversity was almost dizzying. Chronoswiss went full regulator with the Space Timer Gravity, Czapek & Cie leaned hard into mother-of-pearl artistry, and Kudoke darkened the mood with the Nocturne. TAG Heuer pushed its Connected Calibre E5 further into motorsport territory with a Formula 1 edition that blurs luxury and tech, while Zodiac paired a 300M dive watch with a purpose-built blade because, apparently, desk diving now requires backup. If you prefer subtle dial drama, Atelier Wen’s pietersite-powered Millésime impressed in review, while H. Moser & Cie. continued to prove that minimalist design and a thousand-year moonphase can coexist. We also went hands-on with pieces from Louis Vuitton, Oceaneva, Rado, Roger Dubuis, Tudor, and Orient Star, covering everything from minute repeaters to 6,000-meter titanium monsters.
Comparisons this week pitted Seiko against Timex in a decade-long battle of emotion versus practicality, surveyed Britain’s growing horological scene, and tracked the renewed love for jump-hour displays. The subtext in all of it? Collectors want both meaning and novelty, preferably in the same box.
Video coverage delivered the usual mix of insight and entertainment, from pizza-themed collabs to inside-the-retail-floor expansion stories and more existential debates about whether brands really need to keep reinventing the wheel. Multiple creators tackled the current state of Rolex, questioning pricing, grey market dynamics, and what staff and enthusiasts really think about influencers, flippers, and clones. Podcasts carried the data torch further, with Oliver Müller unpacking the Morgan Stanley numbers and a lively February Q&A mixing industry talk with hot dog philosophy.
On the auction front, Wednesday’s 2008 Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph “Tiffany & Co.” reached $110,277 but failed to meet reserve, which means someone now has a chance to make an offer and test just how motivated the seller really is. Meanwhile, our featured auction watch, the 2023 Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date “Ocean Breeze,” is sitting at $8,200 with the hammer scheduled for 12:15 pm ET today. German muscle, integrated flyback chronograph, full set, and a dial color that suggests you might actually enjoy wearing it—there are worse ways to spend a Thursday.
If yesterday proved anything, it’s that scarcity, technology, and storytelling are now the three pillars of modern watchmaking. The top brands are consolidating power, independents are sharpening their identities, and collectors are being asked to choose between patience, passion, and price. As usual, the answer is probably yes.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
Behind The Crown: Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour’s watch world view
Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour reflects on the importance of collaboration and healthy competition in sustaining the Swiss watch industry, especially through education and support for emerging talent. He argues that new brands push established players to stay creative, and that maintaining a balance of tradition and innovation is essential. Dufour also addresses smartwatches, positioning them as a gateway that can build interest in mechanical watches for younger buyers. He highlights trust and service as core priorities, including the Rolex Certified Pre-Owned program to bring more assurance to the secondary market.
American watch sales rose 20% in 2025
U.S. watch retail sales reportedly climbed 20% in 2025, even with headwinds like tariffs, high gold prices, and a weaker dollar. Data cited in the story shows sales per retail door rising sharply, with the luxury and “Prestige” tiers leading the gains. The piece notes a disconnect between flat Swiss export figures to the U.S. and strong retail performance on the ground. Early 2026 momentum is described as continuing, with January showing another jump in luxury sales per door.
Rolex And Cartier Are In Another League – A Deep Dive On The Pains And Gains In Morgan Stanley’s “Swiss Watcher” Report
Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult’s “Swiss Watcher” report says the biggest Swiss brands widened the gap in 2025, with Rolex and Cartier posting notable sales and market share gains. Rolex is reported to have grown sales about 4% to above CHF 11 billion, even as production fell for a second straight year. The report also points to strength from other top-tier players and independents, while mid-tier brands face pressure as the market continues to premiumize.
Inhorgenta 2026 closes with record-breaking edition
Inhorgenta Munich’s 2026 show wrapped after a record-setting run, drawing about 900 exhibitors representing 1,200 brands and more than 25,000 trade visitors from 94 countries. Organizers framed the event around “Craftsmanship,” with live demonstrations spotlighting artisanal skills like gemstone setting, engraving, and watch assembly. While German attendance dipped slightly, international participation increased, and overall satisfaction remained strong. The show also highlighted positive industry signals in jewelry retail and exports, with the next edition scheduled for February 19–22, 2027.
Feature Time
Chronometer Watches Matter — Why The World Of Luxury Needs Accuracy
Chronometer watches highlight accuracy as a core value in luxury watchmaking, even in a world where GPS and phones can keep perfect time. The piece traces chronometers back to their roots in navigation, where precision was essential, and explains how certification became a marker of rigorous standards. Today, the appeal is as much about honoring craftsmanship and history as it is about performance. Owning a chronometer is framed as a commitment to the legacy of precision in mechanical horology.
Rise of the machines: How technology is transforming watchmaking
Watchmaking is increasingly shaped by robotics, AI, and automation, with major brands investing heavily to improve consistency, efficiency, and quality. Rather than replacing tradition, the article argues that advanced machinery is becoming part of the modern definition of “craftsmanship.” Human expertise remains central for assembly, regulation, and inspection, where feel and judgment still matter. The result is a new narrative where technology strengthens the artistry and reliability of mechanical watches instead of diminishing it.
A Visit To The De Rijke & Co. Atelier, Where The New Capri Was Crafted
De Rijke & Co. introduces the Capri as its first dress watch, created in the brand’s Dordrecht atelier and shaped by founder Laurens de Rijke’s hands-on design approach. The story focuses on the watch’s rectangular steel case and clean, minimalist aesthetic, with multiple dial options including black onyx and a Capri Blue variant. Inside is the hand-wound La Joux-Perret D100, helping keep the profile slim while delivering a 50-hour power reserve. The Capri is positioned as a versatile dress piece, available for pre-order with delivery expected in April or May 2026.
Why are Wristwatches Getting Scarcer?
The article argues that Swiss watches are becoming scarcer as brands cut production and lean into “premiumisation,” making fewer watches at higher prices. It cites declines in output and exports, alongside examples of brands reducing volume while raising average selling prices. This shift is said to be polarizing the market, with high-end models capturing more value even as overall supply shrinks. For consumers and collectors, the implication is higher prices, more focus on core hits, and less room for niche or slower-moving models.
The Watches We Love: Ressence
Ressence is profiled as a modern, design-driven brand that has challenged traditional watchmaking conventions since its 2010 founding in Antwerp. Marking its 15th anniversary, the story highlights the brand’s ROCS display system, which tells time through rotating discs and creates a distinctive, highly legible look. The emphasis is on minimalist forms and a more organic connection between the watch and the wearer, backed by serious engineering. Ressence is positioned as a niche but influential name with strong appeal among collectors who value innovation and thoughtful design.
In-Depth: Orient Star’s Clever Silicon Escape Wheel
Orient Star is spotlighted for developing a silicon escape wheel designed to improve efficiency and extend power reserve without sacrificing accuracy. The article explains why silicon adoption has been slower in Japan, then details how Orient Star, via Seiko Epson’s capabilities, is producing components using advanced methods like photolithography and deep reactive ion etching. Because the wheel is much lighter than traditional materials, more energy reaches the balance, leading to meaningful gains in performance. The design also avoids adhesives by using flexible arms to secure the wheel, aiming for robustness and better wear resistance.
New Timepieces at Inhorgenta Munich 2026 | WatchTime
The Inhorgenta Munich 2026 roundup surveys a wide mix of releases from major brands and newer names, framed by the show’s craftsmanship theme. Highlights include divers and sports models, but also more unusual complications like a jumping-hour single-hand watch and a central tourbillon concept piece. The article underlines how brands are combining fresh materials, bolder case designs, and distinctive dial treatments to stand out. Overall, the show is presented as a snapshot of both innovation and steady refinement across price tiers.
Born to Serve: A Spotlight on Military Watches
Military watches are traced from their origins as essential battlefield tools to their modern popularity among civilians who value their clarity and toughness. The piece points to World War I as a turning point that accelerated the shift to wristwatches and drove practical innovations for durability and accuracy. It emphasizes that the design code remains consistent: strong legibility, resilience, and purpose-built layouts. Manufacturers are shown continuing to refine these watches using feedback from active service members, keeping them reliable and relatively affordable.
Everything You Need to Know About the Rolex Day-Date
This guide breaks down the Rolex Day-Date as a flagship status watch, notable for being made exclusively in precious metals and for pioneering the day-and-date display as an automatic chronometer. It explains how the model’s association with influential public figures helped cement its reputation as a symbol of power and success. The article then walks through key references and the major aesthetic and technical shifts across generations, from early models to modern production. Collectability is framed around rarity, configuration, and condition, with prices varying widely depending on the specific reference and details.
Event Time
Happenings: Celebrate 50 Years Of Eco-Drive At Citizen’s New York City Flagship Store
Citizen is marking 50 years of Eco-Drive, its light-powered technology that can run on virtually any light source. The celebration is set for March 18, 2025 at Citizen’s New York City flagship store, running from 6:30 to 8:30 PM. The event includes a panel discussion with industry figures such as Neall Brick and Shoichiro Morita focused on Eco-Drive’s legacy and what is coming next. Space is limited, and attendees are asked to RSVP by email with their name and any guest information.
The Latest Time
Chronoswiss
Introducing: Chronoswiss Goes Bold with the new Space Timer Gravity
Chronoswiss has unveiled the Space Timer Gravity, a 44mm stainless steel regulator-style watch limited to 50 pieces, built around a highly technical, multi-part dial. The dial combines hand-guilloché work, laser engraving, and a color-shifting coating that moves between deep green and blue, with a transparent ring that reveals the openworked gear train below. Inside is the automatic Calibre C.308 with a 42-hour power reserve, and the watch is rated to 100 meters of water resistance. Price is approximately $27,612 USD (converted from EUR 23,400).
Czapek & Cie
Mother-of-Pearl Dials for the Czapek Antarctique S and the Promenade
Czapek & Cie introduces two limited editions centered on elaborate mother-of-pearl dials: the Antarctique S Ice Cloud and the Promenade Midnight Pearl. The Antarctique uses a “nacre brouillé” technique to create cloud-like patterning under a blue-tinted varnish, while the Promenade pairs aventurine glass with a Tahitian mother-of-pearl base to evoke a starlit sky. Both watches use Czapek’s in-house SXH5 automatic movement and lean heavily into dial artistry as the headline feature. Prices are approximately $32,121 USD (CHF 24,900) for the Antarctique and $24,252 USD (CHF 18,800) for the Promenade.
Kudoke
The Kudoke 3 Nocturne, Alongside a New Dial and Decor Option for the Kaliber 1
Kudoke expands the HANDwerk collection with the Kudoke 3 Nocturne, a limited run that keeps the signature two-level time display but shifts the watch into a darker, more monochrome aesthetic. A sandblasted steel case and black upper dial set a subdued tone, while polished steel hands replace the more traditional blued set for a cleaner look. The hand-wound Kaliber 1 delivers a 46-hour power reserve and features distinctive engraving details, including a hand-engraved balance cock. Price is approximately $14,837 USD (converted from EUR 12,574, excluding VAT).
TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5 45mm X Formula 1 Smartwatch
TAG Heuer’s Connected Calibre E5 Formula 1 edition aims to bring race-weekend telemetry and scheduling to the wrist with a motorsport-focused interface and dedicated F1 app features. The 45mm Grade 2 titanium case and racing-session bezel design pair with an AMOLED display that highlights upcoming Grand Prix events and includes race-specific watch faces. The watch runs on a Qualcomm Snapdragon 5100+ platform with an estimated three-day battery life, plus a full suite of health and activity sensors. MSRP is approximately $3,096 USD (converted from CHF 2,400), with a launch date of March 3, 2026.
Zodiac
Zodiac’s New Release Pairs a 300M Dive Watch With a Purpose-Built Blade
Zodiac teams up with GiantMouse on a set that pairs a Super Sea Wolf Pro Diver with a custom dive knife, inspired by a real enthusiast connection sparked at the Windup Watch Fair. The 42mm steel dive watch offers 300 meters of water resistance and uses a COSC-certified STP 1-21 movement, with bold accents and a colorful bezel aligned with Zodiac’s design DNA. The matching knife adds practical diver-friendly features like a line cutter, partial serrations, and a rinse-through design for real-world use. The set retails for $2,295 USD.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Atelier Wen
Atelier Wen Nails Another Gorgeous Dial with the New Millésime 2025 Perception Limited Edition
Atelier Wen’s Millésime 2025 Perception Limited Edition is centered on a rare pietersite dial, chosen for its storm-like patterns and shifting light play. The watch pairs that dial with a 904L stainless steel case and bracelet, and uses a layered construction inspired by traditional Chinese woodworking techniques. While the design and finishing are praised, the review notes that the 40mm case and longer lug-to-lug can wear larger than expected on smaller wrists. Pre-orders for the first batch of 225 pieces have closed, with additional runs planned later at different serial numbers.
H. Moser & Cie
A Closer Look: H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Moon Concept Meteorite
This Streamliner pairs H. Moser & Cie.’s minimalist “Concept” approach with a technically ambitious moonphase designed to drift just one day in more than a millennium. The lunar display is driven continuously rather than jumping in a daily step, which helps explain both its smooth behavior and long-term precision. A meteorite dial adds texture and historical heft, softened by a warm tone and fumé gradient, all housed in a 40mm case integrated with a fluid steel bracelet. The piece is positioned as quietly high-end rather than showy, and it is offered as a regular-production model through select retailers.
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton Escale Minute Repeater Hands-On: A Jumping Hour Watch With Gerald Genta Sound
Louis Vuitton’s Escale Minute Repeater is presented as a high-complication watch that aims for refinement over flash, pairing an 18k rose-gold case with a deeply engraved guilloché dial. The movement is based on a modified Gerald Genta–developed architecture and combines a retrograde minute display with a jumping hour, while still delivering a strong 80-hour power reserve. A key focus of the piece is the minute repeater’s sound quality, positioning it as a “musical” watch built for serious listening as much as collecting. Although not formally limited, it is expected to be produced in small quantities, leaving room for future variations.
Oceaneva
Oceaneva 6000m Deep Marine Explorer VI Titanium GMT True Dive Full Lume Watch Review
Oceaneva’s Deep Marine Explorer VI is built around extreme specifications, led by a Grade 5 titanium 44mm case rated to 6,000 meters and a full-lume dial for low-light legibility. The update adds more modern visual cues like arrow hands and triangular hour markers, while keeping a traditional dive-timer bezel alongside a GMT function. Powering the watch is the Miyota 9075 “true GMT,” which allows independent setting of local time without disturbing the other hands, making it practical for travel. The review frames it as a bold value proposition for deep-diver styling and capability, released in a very small run.
Orient Star
Orient Star M34 F8 Date with Meteorite Dial
Orient Star’s M34 F8 Date Meteorite Dial is a 75th-anniversary limited edition that leans heavily on its distinctive Widmanstätten meteorite pattern, which gives each dial a one-of-a-kind look. The watch uses a 40mm tonneau-style steel case with a bracelet, plus a dual-curved sapphire crystal and a power reserve indicator for everyday usability. Inside is the F8 B64 automatic movement with 60 hours of power reserve and an accuracy range positioned as practical rather than chronometer-tight. The review highlights the movement finishing as a standout at the price point, helping it compete as a strong-value enthusiast option.
Rado
Hands-On With The Rado Anatom Automatic Skeleton
The Rado Anatom Automatic Skeleton combines a compact ceramic case with an openworked dial that puts the movement and architecture on display. Its styling is elevated by a plasma-toned ceramic bezel and gold accents, aiming for a modern look that feels refined rather than overly loud. Comfort is a key theme, with the lightweight build and ergonomic shaping designed for daily wear, paired with an 80-hour power reserve from the R808 automatic movement. The review notes that skeleton aesthetics are subjective, but argues the execution adds character to the Anatom line.
Roger Dubuis
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monobalancier Black DLC Titanium
This Excalibur Monobalancier is framed as an example of Roger Dubuis “Hyper Horology,” combining a black DLC titanium case with a fully skeletonized presentation. The movement carries the Poinçon de Genève hallmark and is described as meticulously finished, using a wide range of decorative techniques that remain visible from nearly every angle. Beyond aesthetics, the watch is positioned as genuinely wearable, pairing a lightweight 42mm case with practical specs like a 72-hour power reserve and 100 meters of water resistance. Modern convenience features, including quick strap changes, are highlighted as part of the overall package.
Tudor
Hands-On With The Tudor Ranger 39mm And 36mm In Beige And Black
The Tudor Ranger is reviewed in both 36mm and 39mm sizes, with the smaller model leaning into classic field-watch proportions while the larger version reads more like a modern sports watch. Both are presented as durable, dependable steel watches with strong water resistance and in-house movements aimed at reliable daily accuracy. The critique focuses on finishing expectations and dial typography, which the review feels can look slightly unbalanced or less refined than hoped. Even with those notes, the Ranger is still positioned as a solid, easy-wearing option across a range of wrist sizes.
Comparing Time
Seiko vs Timex: Which Affordable Watch Brand Wins After 10 Years of Reviews?
This comparison frames Seiko and Timex as two brands with very different strengths in the affordable space. Seiko is positioned as the choice for people who want a deeper ownership experience, driven by mechanical variety, sport and dive-watch credibility, and the satisfaction of living with an automatic watch over time. Timex is presented as the practical option, built around convenience, reliability, and low-maintenance everyday usability. The conclusion is that “better” depends on whether someone values emotional engagement and mechanics (Seiko) or simple, dependable function (Timex).
Jump Around: Five Timepieces Driving the Jump-Hour Resurgence
This roundup highlights a renewed interest in jump-hour watches through five examples from Niton, Louis Vuitton, Audemars Piguet, Cartier, and F.P. Journe. Each is used to show how the complication can be reinterpreted, from historically rooted approaches and intricate craftsmanship to modernized designs that make time display more intuitive and visually engaging. The selection emphasizes the blend of artistry and engineering that collectors respond to, especially when heritage brands update a classic idea for current tastes. Overall, the piece argues that the momentum behind these releases signals a strong future for jump-hour displays in modern high horology.
Best British Watches of 2026 So Far
This list-style comparison surveys a wide spread of British watch releases in 2026, spanning playful design, eco-minded concepts, and more rugged tool-watch options. It calls out how varied the scene has become, with watches that range from minimalist and restrained to bright, quirky, and strongly personality-driven. The roundup also includes more premium pieces that lean into artisanal craft, distinctive dial work, and cultural references, showing depth beyond entry-level offerings. The overall takeaway is that British horology is in a growth phase, with enough diversity in style and price to appeal to both newcomers and serious collectors.
Watching Time - Videos
New Studio Underd0g x Time+Tide Pizza Watches: Classic Cheese & Burnt Pepper0ni - YouTube - Time+Tide Watches
This video spotlights a collaboration between Studio Underd0g and Time+Tide that turns two pizza themes into playful watch designs. It focuses on the visual details and the fun concepting behind “Classic Cheese” and “Burnt Pepper0ni,” aiming squarely at collectors who like watches that do not take themselves too seriously. The presentation emphasizes the creativity and craftsmanship that go into making novelty-inspired designs feel intentional and wearable. Overall, it is a quick, enthusiastic look at a collab built to spark conversation as much as it tells time.
The Most Insane Rolex Story Ever - YouTube - Adrian Barker
This video tells a highly narrative Rolex story built around an unusual, twist-filled experience tied to the brand’s mystique. It leans into the cultural gravity of Rolex ownership, using personal anecdote to show how the brand can create moments that feel bigger than the watch itself. Along the way, it plays on themes that collectors recognize, including scarcity, status, and the emotional highs that come with a standout Rolex encounter. The result is more storytime than product review, designed to entertain while still tapping into watch-world reality.
I Expanded My Luxury Watch Store (4x the Size & New Brands) - YouTube - Teddy Baldassarre
This video documents a major retail expansion, covering how a luxury watch store scaled up to roughly four times its previous size while adding new brands. It highlights the practical challenges of growth, including planning, build-out logistics, and brand partnerships required to broaden the product mix. The tone is optimistic and forward-looking, framing the expansion as a way to improve the customer experience and create a more premium environment for enthusiasts. It also serves as a behind-the-scenes look at what it takes to grow a watch business in a competitive market.
Do Watch Brands Need to Keep Reinventing the Wheel? (Tony Traina) - YouTube
This video digs into a core question in modern watchmaking: whether brands need constant innovation or can thrive by refining established designs. It explores the tension between staying relevant to new buyers and honoring the heritage that existing fans value. The discussion suggests that reinvention can attract attention and keep a brand competitive, but it also risks weakening identity if changes feel forced. The overall takeaway is a nuanced look at how brands might balance tradition and progress without losing the plot.
Clavicular Goes Watch Shopping at TPT! - YouTube - TimePieceTrading
This video follows Clavicular through a watch-shopping session at TimePieceTrading, showcasing a range of luxury pieces and the details that make each one stand out. It emphasizes the in-person experience of handling watches, comparing styles, and reacting to finishing and design choices in real time. The format is designed to be both entertaining and useful, offering a feel for how enthusiasts think through selection beyond just specs. It ends up as a celebration of variety in modern collecting, with plenty of eye candy along the way.
These New Watches Are Absolute Bangers! - YouTube - ONE Watches
This video is an energetic roundup of new releases, presented as a collection of standout watches worth paying attention to right now. It focuses on what makes each pick exciting, especially design cues, features, and the broader trends they represent. The commentary leans enthusiastic, aiming to capture the feeling of discovery that comes with strong new drops. Overall, it works as a fast-moving highlight reel for viewers who want quick inspiration on what is new and noteworthy.
What Rolex Staff Really Think About, Influencers, Clones, Flippers and Grey Market Prices - YouTube - Casual Watch Reviews
This video examines how people inside the Rolex retail ecosystem view hot-button issues shaping the market today. It touches on the role influencers play in demand, the frustration around clones and counterfeits, and the impact of flippers who push prices higher through resale. It also looks at the grey market’s effect on accessibility and pricing, especially for buyers who want watches at retail. The focus is on how these forces change consumer behavior and how the brand’s presence is experienced by everyday enthusiasts.
Rolex Got Too Expensive. Now They’re Paying The Price - YouTube - Opulent Oasis
This video argues that Rolex price increases may be creating real consequences for demand and brand perception. It discusses how pushing further upmarket can strain the balance between prestige and value, especially for long-time enthusiasts who remember lower entry points. The narrative frames this as a risk to accessibility, suggesting that the brand could alienate a portion of the audience even if it strengthens exclusivity for others. It ultimately questions whether the strategy remains sustainable as the luxury market continues to shift.
Inside the Accutron Spaceview 314 with Eddie Huang - YouTube - Hodinkee
This video takes a closer look at the Accutron Spaceview 314, using the watch as a lens to talk about design, technology, and why certain pieces become culturally meaningful. Eddie Huang adds storytelling and personal context, helping connect the technical elements to broader taste and identity. The discussion highlights how the Spaceview’s visual language and innovation set it apart from more traditional mechanical watch norms. It is both an explainer and a narrative piece, aimed at making the watch’s significance feel tangible even if you have never handled one.
Talking Time - Podcasts
The Business of Watches Podcast: Oliver Müller, The Man Behind The Numbers For The Morgan Stanley Swiss Watcher Report
This episode features a detailed conversation with Oliver Müller, a key figure behind the annual Morgan Stanley Swiss Watcher report and its widely discussed brand revenue and volume estimates. He explains how he builds the numbers, what data signals he relies on, and why the report’s conclusions often spark debate across the industry. The discussion also addresses pushback from major groups, including criticism around methodology and interpretation. Ben Clymer joins to add perspective from recent conversations in Geneva with top executives, tying the numbers back to current market sentiment and strategy.
February Q&A: Worn & Wound in Ten Years, Preventing Watch Burnout, and What We Put on Our Hotdogs
This February Q&A episode brings together Zach Kazan with Zach Weiss and Blake Malin to answer a broad mix of listener questions with a mix of industry talk and lighter banter. They touch on how AI is showing up in their work, how they react when a watch review falls flat, and what they think Worn & Wound could look like a decade from now. The conversation also gets personal and playful, including a debate over hot dog toppings, keeping the episode casual and approachable. The hosts encourage listeners to subscribe on major podcast platforms, leave reviews, and send in questions for future episodes.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com
[Wednesday’s auction watch, the 2008 Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph “Tiffany & Co.” Steel / Blue (5980/1A-001) - was bid to $110,277 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2023 Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date Ocean Breeze/ Rubber (1-37-02-13-02-63)
Auction Report: Ocean Breeze, German Muscle: 2023 Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date (Ref. 1-37-02-13-02-63)
The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date is the brand’s proof that the 1970s didn’t only give us questionable carpet decisions—it also gave us shapes worth stealing forever. The Seventies line started as a design-forward, TV-screen/cushion-case riff, and the Chronograph Panorama Date version arrived in 2014 as the “serious one,” pairing the retro case with a genuinely high-end, in-house integrated flyback chronograph. This particular configuration, the “Ocean Breeze” dial on rubber (ref. 1-37-02-13-02-63), is part of the brighter, more playful color push Glashütte Original has been doing in the Seventies family, but it still reads like a grown-up watch once you see how much engineering is hiding behind that breezy name.
On the wrist, the appeal is the geometry: 40mm by 40mm in stainless steel, with that soft-square silhouette that wears flatter and more compact than the numbers suggest. It’s sporty without being loud, and it’s distinctive in a market where “another round steel chronograph” is basically a daily recurring event. The dial layout is also very Glashütte Original: the Panorama Date is there because of course it is, and the chronograph display is unconventional in a way that actually becomes the signature. You get the central chronograph seconds, a 30-minute register, and that quirky 12-hour display tucked up near 12 o’clock, plus a small seconds with an integrated power reserve indication. In other words, it’s busy, but it’s busy with intent.
Mechanically, you’re buying the Calibre 37-02, an automatic, column-wheel, flyback chronograph with a 4 Hz beat rate and about a 70-hour power reserve. That spec sheet matters because integrated flyback chronographs from true manufacture movements don’t usually show up at remotely sane pricing, and Glashütte Original has always punched above its weight here. Add the sapphire caseback and the typical Glashütte-level finishing—three-quarter plate architecture, rotor with a heavy metal mass, and lots of clean Germanic detailing—and you’ve got a watch that can win an argument even if someone doesn’t “get” the TV case.
This example is described as pre-owned with excellent dial/hands/crystal, and minor signs of wear on the case/bezel and strap. The good news is you’ve got a full set: box and papers, plus product literature and the setting pin. That matters for liquidity with Glashütte Original in a way it doesn’t always with the usual hype suspects—buyers in this lane tend to want completeness and clean condition because they’re shopping the watch, not the logo.
On value, the retail positioning for these Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date variants has typically lived in the mid-teens (USD), depending on strap/bracelet. In the secondary market, the Seventies Chronograph tends to trade at a meaningful discount to retail—often roughly in the high four figures to low teens for well-kept full-set examples, with colorway desirability and condition doing most of the pushing and pulling. The Ocean Breeze dial helps, because the “fun” dials are what keep this model feeling current, but the overall market for non-hype German sport-chronographs still rewards patient buyers more than impatient sellers.
The auction is scheduled to end today at 12:15 pm ET on Thursday, February 26, 2026. If you’re bidding, the play is simple: pay for the movement, condition, and completeness, and treat the Ocean Breeze dial as the bonus that makes it feel less like “responsible watch collecting” and more like you’re actually having fun again.
Current bid: $8,200