BuyingTime Daily - February 25, 2026
Is the Rolex Pepsi gone? CPO reshapes resale, new drops from Chronoswiss to Piaget, and a Tiffany 5980 tests the market.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
BuyingTime for February 25, 2026 feels a bit like watching the market hold its breath. The biggest question floating through the hobby is whether Rolex is quietly sunsetting the GMT-Master II “Pepsi.” Dealer listings have reportedly started vanishing and whispers suggest production may have stopped in January, yet the watch still appears on the brand’s configurator. That tension—scarcity signals on one side, official silence on the other—has predictably nudged secondary prices upward. Now all eyes turn to Watches and Wonders to see whether this is a true farewell, a refresh, or perhaps even the long-rumored “Coke” revival.
Meanwhile, Rolex is also marking 50 years of its Awards program by naming five global changemakers as 2026 Laureates, reinforcing the Perpetual Planet narrative and reminding everyone that the crown prefers long-term impact over short-term noise. And three years into its Certified Pre-Owned experiment, the program looks less like a side hustle and more like a structured resale machine, steadily reshaping how pre-owned Rolex changes hands and squeezing mid-tier grey dealers in the process.
On the awards circuit, the Inhorgenta Award 2026 gala spotlighted craftsmanship across categories, with winners including Tutima Glashütte for Mechanical Watch of the Year and Accutron by Bulova for Watch Design of the Year. It was a reminder that while speculation swirls around steel sports models, innovation continues well beyond Geneva’s gravitational pull.
Retail finance leaders, however, are less celebratory. Rising employment costs and regulatory pressures are forcing retailers to rethink hiring, hours, and automation investments. For the watch trade, that likely means tighter margins, more emphasis on productivity, and fewer luxuries in overhead—an undercurrent that could shape boutique strategy as much as any bezel color change.
The partnership news came from the slopes, where Rocky Mountain Watches has been named Official Timekeeper of the Natural Selection Tour. Expect athlete timing, special editions, and plenty of adventure-forward storytelling as brands continue to chase authenticity beyond the velvet-lined display case.
Feature-wise, MB&F’s M.A.D.Gallery marked its 15th anniversary with Frank Buchwald’s ML15 Helios mechanical lamp—a glowing, handcrafted “sun” that leans into horology-adjacent art collecting. It is not a watch, but it very much speaks the same mechanical language.
Editorial reflections were more personal. One piece explored how significant weight loss can completely recalibrate how watches wear—proportion, presence, and even emotional attachment shifting as wrists shrink. Another looked back at the evolution of Rolex CPO, weighing what was underestimated and what may come next as controlled resale becomes a structural pillar rather than a novelty.
Event season is heating up. WatchPro’s Women in Watches gathering lands in New York on March 6, and the Windup Watch Fair returns to Dallas March 13–15 with more than 40 brands, BBQ, whisky, and the usual enthusiast energy that proves this hobby is as social as it is mechanical.
As for new watches, there is plenty to digest. Chronoswiss refreshed an ’80s concept with the Lunar Chronograph Aurora, pairing a green CVD dial with a Valjoux-based moonphase chronograph. Citizen delivered retro-futuristic nostalgia with its Ana-Digi Temp “2026 New Prelude,” a love letter to automotive design. Hamilton brightened up the Jazzmaster Open Heart with smoky gradients and its reliable 80-hour H-10 movement. MeisterSinger evolved its single-hand DNA into a jumping-hour complication with the Panthero. Piaget unveiled two lavish Limelight Gala Precious editions in rose gold, heavy on engraving, enamel, and gemstones. And French microbrand BND offered vintage diver vibes with its Mk.3, powered by the Seiko NH35A and capped at 100 pieces per dial.
On the wrist review front, G-SHOCK shrank its iconic square into a ring-sized Nano DWN5600 that still manages 200 meters of water resistance and shock protection—novelty, yes, but unmistakably on-brand.
The videos worth your time include a pointed critique of Audemars Piguet’s current sales model, a look at Miami’s biggest watch club origin story, and a first-hand gold Rolex Land-Dweller experience that leans heavily into emotional payoff.
At auction, Tuesday’s 2018 Ulysse Nardin Hourstriker Tiger climbed to $42,500 but failed to meet reserve, proving once again that artistry does not always equal liquidity. Tonight’s heavyweight is a 2008 Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph “Tiffany & Co.” 5980/1A-001, currently bid to $110,277 with the hammer set for 5:00 pm ET. Signed steel from the golden era remains a serious capital conversation disguised as a sports watch.
Scarcity rumors, structured resale, creative risk, and macroeconomic pressure—all in a single day’s scroll. In other words, just another day in the modern watch universe.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
Has Rolex discontinued the GMT-Master II Pepsi?
Rumors are growing that the Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi” may be headed for discontinuation, as listings have reportedly started disappearing from several authorized dealer websites and production is said to have stopped in January. That apparent drop in visibility is also being linked to rising secondary-market prices, which typically spike when buyers sense scarcity. At the same time, the Pepsi variants still appear on Rolex’s own site configurator, which keeps the situation uncertain. The speculation now turns to whether Watches and Wonders 2026 brings a formal end to the current reference, or a replacement such as an updated Pepsi or a black-and-red “Coke” bezel option.
Inhorgenta Award 2026 winners announced
The Inhorgenta Award 2026 gala celebrated standout work across jewelry, watches, and gemstones, with more than 500 industry guests gathering at the Bavaria Filmstudios for the ceremony. Hosted by TV presenter Nazan Eckes and featuring a live performance by LOI, the event highlighted the sector’s emphasis on innovation and craft. Awards were presented across ten categories, with most decided by an expert jury and one determined by public vote. Winners ranged from Arnoldi International (Gemstone Design of the Year) and Capolavoro (Fine Jewelry of the Year) to Tutima Glashütte (Mechanical Watch of the Year) and Accutron by Bulova (Watch Design of the Year).
Retail Jobs At Risk From Rising Employment Costs
Retail finance leaders are signaling sharper concern about labor costs, with a growing share of CFOs reporting pessimism tied to rising employment expenses. The report points to the Employment Rights Act and a major jump in wage and payroll-related costs as key pressures, leading some retailers to consider reduced hours, hiring freezes, and headcount cuts. Against a backdrop of weak wage growth and lower consumer confidence, businesses are looking for ways to protect margins. Many are responding by pushing productivity improvements and investing in automation, while warning that overly complex reforms could also reduce entry-level job opportunities.
Rocky Mountain Watches named Official Timekeeper of Natural Selection Tour
Rocky Mountain Watches has signed a multiyear partnership with the Natural Selection Tour, taking on the role of Official Timekeeper for the freeride competition series. The collaboration is expected to include support for athlete timing, content and digital storytelling, and the creation of special-edition watches designed for the tour’s community. Both sides position the partnership around authenticity and an adventure-forward identity, with integration planned across events, broadcasts, and on-site activations. Starting in 2026, the brands will also work on future co-designed models intended to reflect real outdoor use rather than ceremonial positioning.
Rolex Marks 50 Years With Five Global Changemakers
Rolex is marking the 50th anniversary of its Awards programme by naming five women as the 2026 Laureates, representing Indonesia, Nigeria, Peru, China, and the United States. The initiative, which began in 1976, has supported 165 Laureates across more than 67 countries and is now part of the brand’s Perpetual Planet Initiative. The 2026 group includes projects focused on protecting wild pandas, safeguarding Indonesia’s Leuser Ecosystem, building portable diagnostics to fight viral outbreaks, strengthening community-led conservation, and studying links between deforestation and pollinator decline. Rolex will be sharing each Laureate’s story to expand awareness of the work and its impact.
Feature Time
Frank Buchwald ML15 Helios for MB&F M.A.D.Gallery—Celebrating 15 Years
Marking its 15th anniversary, MB&F’s M.A.D.Gallery has grown from a Geneva concept space showcasing the brand’s Horological Machines into an international network with locations including Dubai, Taipei, and Beverly Hills. To celebrate the milestone, the gallery invited select artists to create limited-edition works, including early collaborator Frank Buchwald. Buchwald’s contribution is the ML15 Helios, a handcrafted “mechanical sun” lamp limited to 15 pieces, built around a glowing central sphere and corona-like luminous ring. Each piece takes weeks of refinement and is constructed from stainless steel and brass, with pricing positioned as a collectible mechanical-art object.
Editorial Time
When Your Wrist Gets Smaller, Your Watches Change Too
After major weight loss, the writer finds that watches wear differently, both physically and psychologically, with pieces that once felt neutral now looking and feeling far more present on a smaller wrist. Resizing a previously neglected Tudor Black Bay becomes a turning point, making the watch feel more “commanding” and changing how proportion and practicality are judged. The article also explores the emotional friction of considering whether to keep beloved watches that may no longer fit the same way, since attachment is tied to memory as much as wearability. Ultimately, the shift opens the door to experimenting with new sizes and styles that previously might have been ignored.
From the Editor: Rolex CPO Three Years Later—What I Got Right, What I Underestimated, and What Comes Next
Three years after launch, Rolex’s Certified Pre-Owned program has grown into a major force, driving an estimated $590 million in sales by 2025 and taking a meaningful share of pre-owned Rolex transactions. While independent dealers and private sales still dominate, the piece argues that mid-tier grey dealers with physical storefronts are getting squeezed as larger CPO operators scale up with authentication credibility and distribution reach. With hundreds of points of sale and thousands of watches in circulation at any given time, the program is portrayed as shifting from a side project to a structured resale infrastructure. The article looks ahead to whether other luxury brands will build similar controlled resale systems, potentially pushing the grey market into a smaller, supporting role.
Event Time
WatchPro announces headline panelists for exclusive Women in Watches event
WatchPro will host its first Women in Watches event in New York on March 6, bringing together watch-industry leaders for candid conversations about women’s roles and achievements in the sector. The program includes two panels, one focused on leadership and representation, and another focused on women’s influence as consumers shaping design and brand strategy. The event also includes networking and brunch, and it is free to attend with limited capacity. Attendees need to RSVP by email to secure a place.
Windup Watch Fair Dallas: Everything You Need to Know
The Windup Watch Fair returns to Dallas March 13–15, 2026 at the Hickory Street Annex, offering a hands-on weekend for enthusiasts, collectors, and newcomers. More than 40 brands are expected, including sponsors like Christopher Ward, Junghans, and Oris, with opportunities to see both new releases and established favorites up close. Beyond the brand showcases, the fair adds community-driven activities like the first Bulova BBQ on March 14 with food and live music. Programming also includes extras such as whisky tasting and watchmaking demonstrations.
The Latest Time
French Brand BND Gives You All The Vintage Diver Vibes At An Affordable Price
BND’s Mk.3 is a vintage-inspired dive watch designed to balance classic looks with serious durability, including a 39.5mm steel case, a unidirectional bezel, and upgraded 300m water resistance. It also adds modern toughness with a double sapphire crystal and strong lume, and it comes in white, grey, or olive khaki dials. Power comes from the Seiko NH35A automatic movement with about a 41-hour reserve, positioned as an accessible, reliable daily diver. Pricing is listed at €495, which is about $584 USD, and production is limited to 100 pieces per dial color with shipping expected in April 2026.
Chronoswiss
A Classic Rejuvenated, Chronoswiss Releases the Lunar Chronograph Aurora
Chronoswiss updates an ’80s-era concept with the Lunar Chronograph Aurora, pairing a modern green CVD-coated dial (that shifts in different light) with classic chronograph functionality and a moonphase complication. The 41mm stainless-steel case is finished with polished and brushed surfaces, includes a screw-down crown, and is rated to 100m. Inside is the automatic calibre C.755 (Valjoux 7750-based) with a proprietary moonphase and date module, running at 4Hz with a 46-hour reserve. The price is €10,800, which is about $12,745 USD.
Citizen
This Retro Citizen Ana-Digi Temp Is A Love Letter To A Special Honda
Citizen’s Ana-Digi Temp “2026 New Prelude” Limited Edition revisits the brand’s 1980s design language while keeping modern utility, combining two analog displays with digital functions like a perpetual calendar, alarm, and thermometer. The design leans into automotive inspiration, including a honeycomb sensor pattern that nods to the new Honda Prelude’s grille. It is limited to 200 pieces and offered in two versions, including a blacked-out variant. The price is about ¥45,000, which is roughly $293 USD (with availability primarily in Japan and potential added costs for buyers importing it).
Hamilton
New, Vibrant Dial Colours for the Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart Series
Hamilton expands the Jazzmaster Open Heart line with new smoky gradient dial colors across 36mm, 40mm, and 42mm case sizes, keeping the signature aperture that reveals the movement. The watches are built for everyday wear with 50m water resistance and options for either a five-row steel bracelet or leather straps. They use Hamilton’s H-10 automatic movement with an 80-hour power reserve, aimed at combining practicality with a more expressive, colorful look. Pricing starts at CHF 920 for the 36mm model, which is about $1,190 USD, with higher prices for larger sizes.
MeisterSinger
The MeisterSinger Panthero Jumping Hour Watch Reimagines The Brand’s Single-Hand Layout
MeisterSinger’s Panthero Jumping Hour evolves the brand’s single-hand approach by adding a jumping-hour display while using an off-center minute track to improve readability. The lineup includes standard black or white dial versions, plus a limited edition of 25 pieces with a guilloché dial, all housed in a more contemporary steel case with a display back. Power comes from the automatic Caliber MS-JH-01 with about a 47-hour reserve, positioning the Panthero as a more premium, complication-forward step for the brand. Pricing is listed at $7,599 for standard models and $8,699 for the limited edition.
Piaget
Spectacular New Editions of the Piaget Limelight Gala Precious
Piaget introduces two new 32mm Limelight Gala Precious editions in 18k rose gold, each built around the brand’s focus on elegant design and ultra-thin mechanical watchmaking. One version highlights Piaget’s Décor Palace engraving, creating a richly textured gold surface accented with a gradient arrangement of cognac and white diamonds for an asymmetrical, light-catching profile. The other leans bold with an orange Grand Feu enamel dial inspired by snake scales, paired with spessartite garnets and diamonds for a sunset-toned palette. Both are powered by Piaget’s slim automatic calibre 501P1 with a 42-hour power reserve, with pricing listed as available upon request.
Wearing Time - Reviews
G-Shock
The G-SHOCK Nano DWN5600 Ring Watch
The G-SHOCK Nano DWN5600 reimagines the classic square as a ring-sized watch, shrinking the case to about 20mm while keeping the brand’s rugged intent. It uses bio-based resin with a glass fiber-reinforced inner core, and it still delivers shock resistance plus 200m water resistance. While it leans novelty, it includes practical basics like time, a second time zone, an alarm, and a stopwatch, all running on the 3592 module. The alarm is visual rather than audible, flashing the backlight at the set time, and the watch is priced at $110.
Watching Time - Videos
Audemars Piguet’s Sales Model Has a Problem - YouTube - Collective Horology
This video argues that Audemars Piguet’s current sales approach is running into meaningful headwinds in today’s luxury-watch market. It breaks down where the brand’s traditional strategies may be misaligned with shifting buyer expectations and newer consumer priorities. Using sales performance and customer sentiment as context, it suggests the status quo could limit growth if it does not evolve. The takeaway is that AP may need a more modern, engagement-driven approach to protect long-term competitiveness.
From Collector To The Biggest Watch Club In Miami - YouTube - Menta Watches
This video follows a collector’s path from personal enthusiasm to building one of Miami’s largest watch communities. It highlights how meetups, conversations, and events helped turn a hobby into a network that connects people around shared interest in horology. Along the way, it spotlights the experiences and learning that come from participating in a club environment. The story is positioned as both a behind-the-scenes look at community-building and a prompt for others to grow their own passion-driven circles.
I FINALLY WORE A ROLEX LAND-DWELLER IN GOLD!! - THESE ARE MY THOUGHTS! - YouTube - Watch Eric
This video captures the creator’s first-hand reaction to wearing a gold Rolex Land-Dweller, framing it as a milestone moment for a luxury-watch enthusiast. It leans heavily into personal impressions and what it feels like to experience a high-end piece in the metal. The content also points toward what makes the watch compelling, touching on the craftsmanship and the appeal that drives desire for Rolex at this level. Overall, it is a mix of emotional payoff and enthusiast commentary meant to resonate with viewers considering similar watches.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com
[Tuesday’s auction watch, the 2018 Ulysse Nardin Hourstriker Tiger 43 Rose Gold / Black Onyx / Strap (6106-130/E2-TIGER) - was bid to $42,500 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2008 Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph “Tiffany & Co.” Steel / Blue (5980/1A-001)
Auction Report: The Original Heavyweight - 2008 Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph “Tiffany & Co.” 5980/1A-001 Heads to the Block
When Patek Philippe unveiled the Nautilus Chronograph reference 5980/1A-001 in 2006, it wasn’t just adding a complication. It was marking 30 years of the Nautilus and, more importantly, signaling that its most recognizable sports watch was ready to lift heavier weights. Designed originally by Gérald Genta in 1976, the Nautilus had long been the elegant athlete in the room. With the 5980, it became the athlete with a stopwatch in hand.
This 2008 example represents the original configuration of the model: stainless steel, 40.5mm case, integrated bracelet, and that unmistakable blue dial that would later become shorthand for “modern Patek steel.” Black and white dial variants would follow, but purists know the first blue 5980 is the one that matters. Add the co-signature of Tiffany & Co. on the dial and you have a watch that checks nearly every collector box: anniversary-adjacent release, first-generation configuration, in-house chronograph, and retailer signature from Patek’s most storied U.S. partner.
The 5980 introduced the caliber CH 28-520 C, Patek’s first fully in-house automatic chronograph movement. It features a vertical clutch and column wheel architecture, offering smooth chronograph engagement and daily-wear durability—an important point because, unlike some of its more delicate siblings, the 5980 was built to be worn. The dial layout is equally distinctive, combining a monocounter at 6 o’clock that stacks both 60-minute and 12-hour totalizers, keeping the face remarkably clean for a chronograph. A date window at 3 o’clock and applied white gold hour markers round out the display, all set against that horizontally embossed blue dial that shifts from navy to electric depending on the light.
Condition here is exactly what you want in a watch like this. It is pre-owned, with minor signs of wear to the case and bracelet, but the dial, hands, and crystal are described as excellent. That matters enormously on a Tiffany-signed piece; dial integrity is everything. The watch comes complete with box, papers, folio, and product literature—full set, which continues to command a premium in the current market.
Speaking of the market, the 5980/1A-001 has had an interesting ride. At retail in the mid-2000s, it was expensive but attainable relative to what followed. Then came the steel sports mania of the late 2010s and early 2020s, when Nautilus references—particularly discontinued steel models—went vertical. The 5980/1A was discontinued in 2014 and replaced by precious metal variants, which only intensified demand for the original steel run. While the broader secondary market has cooled from its 2022 peak, first-generation steel Nautilus chronographs remain blue-chip assets within modern horology. Tiffany-signed examples sit in a different tier altogether, often trading meaningfully above standard dial versions due to rarity and the strength of the Patek-Tiffany partnership narrative.
Comparable non-Tiffany 5980/1A-001 examples in strong condition have generally settled into the low-to-mid six-figure range depending on completeness and condition. Tiffany-signed pieces can command a substantial premium beyond that, particularly when accompanied by original documentation. In short, this is not entry-level Nautilus territory; this is serious capital allocation disguised as a sports watch.
The case size at 40.5mm wears broader due to the integrated bracelet and lateral “ears,” yet remains balanced on the wrist. The steel construction is part of the appeal. In a world where precious metal Nautilus chronographs are plentiful, the original steel 5980 retains the purity of the original Gérald Genta concept: high horology in ostensibly utilitarian metal. The fact that it houses a sophisticated in-house chronograph only deepens the contradiction, which is exactly why collectors love it.
With the auction ending at 5:00 pm ET on Wednesday, February 25, 2026, this lot will test the current appetite for signed steel at the high end of the market. If the Tiffany signature is clean and the watch remains unpolished or sympathetically refinished, expect competitive bidding. These do not surface casually, and when they do, they tend to recalibrate expectations.
For the collector who wants a first-generation in-house Nautilus chronograph, full set, retailer-signed, and from the golden era before supply-demand hysteria distorted everything, this 2008 5980/1A-001 makes a compelling case. It is not subtle. It is not inexpensive. But in the hierarchy of modern steel sports watches, this is one of the foundational pieces.
Current bid: $110,277