BuyingTime Daily - February 24, 2026
Breitling’s valuation drops, Fossil revives Y2K, BAFTA wrist heat, new drops from Habring2 to Ulysse Nardin—and a roaring Hourstriker at auction.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe for February 24, 2026 feels a bit like watching the tide roll out for some brands while others are busy polishing their halos. The most sobering headline belongs to Breitling, where billions have reportedly been wiped off its valuation as private equity owners reassess performance amid softer sales and rising operating costs. Revenues sliding from CHF 870 million in 2023 to CHF 820 million in 2025 tell a clear story: aggressive boutique expansion and marketing muscle don’t automatically translate into durable growth. With a Moody’s downgrade adding financing pressure, the question now is whether this is a cyclical pause or a strategic reset in a tightening luxury environment.
Meanwhile, nostalgia is back on the wrist as Fossil revisits its late-1990s Big Tic Y2K with animated digital displays and unapologetic flame graphics. It’s playful, self-aware, and very on-brand for a generation rediscovering mall-era cool. On the red carpet at the BAFTAs, serious watch flexing was in full effect, with Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, Urban Jürgensen, and TAG Heuer stealing camera time, proving once again that award season doubles as a horological runway.
The deeper reads today range from practical to philosophical. One piece makes the humble flashlight a hero tool for checking lume, scrutinizing polish, and rescuing lost spring bars, while another critiques the industry’s growing marketing monotony, arguing that even as watches improve, the storytelling around them has become oddly flat. At the very top of the craft pyramid, George Daniels’ Space Traveller is celebrated as the kind of hand-built masterpiece that redefines what a single watchmaker can achieve, a timely reminder of what independent genius looks like. Porsche Design continues to lean into personalization, expanding its Custom-Built Timepieces program as configurability becomes its own form of modern luxury. Morgan Stanley’s latest Swiss watch report underscores the structural tilt of the industry toward the ultra-high end, with names like Rolex, Cartier, Audemars Piguet, and Omega capturing a disproportionate share of value. And Tiffany & Co. appears determined to define its watchmaking pace on its own terms, grounding new releases in its jewelry DNA while refining a clearer horological identity. Perrelet rounds out the feature set by doubling down on kinetic design and its double-rotor signature, blending heritage with modern theatrics.
On the new release front, Habring2 collaborates with SJX on the Chrono-Felix Medicus, a monopusher chronograph tailored for medical professionals and limited to just 50 pieces, with charitable contributions built into the pricing. Krayon elevates its Anyday in rose gold, combining weekday practicality with haute horlogerie complexity in a six-figure statement piece. Mido adds two-tone appeal to the Multifort 8 One Crown, keeping the accessible integrated sports category competitive. Sinn celebrates 65 years with a titanium 903 Ti II Anniversary that leans into navigational chronograph heritage, while Ulysse Nardin injects rally-fueled bravado into the Freak X Gumball 3000 Edition 2, complete with a Carbonium hour disc and flying carousel theatrics.
Reviews today span the spectrum. Breguet marks its 250th anniversary with the Classique Répétition Minutes 7365, its first water-resistant minute repeater and a bold technical step wrapped in enamel and proprietary gold. Christopher Ward positions the C63 Valour Chronograph as a sub-$1,000 contender with COSC-certified quartz precision and thoughtful case finishing. Traska earns praise for an enthusiast-driven chronograph built around the Seiko NE86, pushing technical ambition while staying price-conscious.
The comparison and roundup pieces explore how to assemble a three-watch collection under $5,000 without repeating brands, and how Year of the Horse releases range from accessible celebratory dials to full-blown métiers d’art showpieces. It’s a useful reminder that budget and artistry can coexist, even if they rarely share the same wrist.
Video highlights include smart alternatives to iconic luxury watches that don’t feel like knockoffs, a rapid-fire look at six newly released affordable models, a behind-the-scenes tour of how Tudor watches are made, a dive into Marcus Stroman’s refreshingly non-obvious collecting habits, and a curated selection of handpicked pieces from Yasha. On the podcast front, Scottish Watches previews British Watchmakers Day 2026 with 26 exclusives, while the SJX Podcast dissects the resurgence of jump-hour watches and the broader reliability conversation in today’s market.
At auction, Monday’s 2023 A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Timezone in white gold was bid to $30,000 but failed to meet reserve, suggesting that even high pedigree pieces require properly aligned expectations. Today’s featured lot, the 2018 Ulysse Nardin Hourstriker Tiger in rose gold with black onyx dial, sits at $20,500 ahead of its 4:40 PM ET close. With its animated jacquemarts and chiming UN-610 caliber, it remains one of the more theatrical complications on the secondary market. Whether it roars past estimate or remains a disciplined buy will depend entirely on who wants to hear that tiger strike on their own wrist.
All told, today’s watch universe swings between recalibration and exuberance. Valuations may wobble, marketing may need fresh oxygen, but the mechanical imagination powering this industry remains very much alive.
-Michael Wolf
News Time
Billions wiped off the value of Breitling
Breitling’s valuation has fallen sharply as private equity owners adjusted their assessments following weaker sales and profit performance since 2023. Sales estimates show a decline from CHF 870 million in 2023 to CHF 820 million in 2025, underscoring the downturn. Despite initiatives under CEO Georges Kern, including retail expansion and major marketing pushes, growth has not materialized since 2022. Rising operating costs tied to boutique growth also contributed to a Moody’s credit rating downgrade, increasing pressure around future financing or a potential sale.
Fossil revisits iconic Big Tic Y2K watch
Fossil is reviving the Big Tic Y2K Limited Edition watch first released in 1999, bringing back its mix of analogue time and an animated digital display. The new versions lean into late-1990s nostalgia with bold visuals like flame animations and scrolling seconds. The relaunch is positioned to appeal to longtime fans while also introducing the playful design to a new audience.
10 Watches That Stole Best In Show At The BAFTAs 2026
The 2026 BAFTA Awards red carpet featured a standout range of watches, with celebrities choosing pieces that emphasized both craftsmanship and personal style. Highlights included Paul Mescal in a Cartier Tank Basculante and Michael B. Jordan in a rare Vacheron Constantin Vintage Prestige de la France. Timothée Chalamet continued a pattern of notable watch choices with an Urban Jürgensen UJ-2, while Patrick Dempsey appeared in a limited edition TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon.
Feature Time
Why The Flashlight Is the Underrated Watch Tool
A flashlight is an easy-to-forget tool that becomes surprisingly useful for watch enthusiasts, from checking lume to inspecting polished surfaces and spotting micro-scratches. It also helps with practical tasks like strap changes and finding small parts such as spring bars. The piece highlights the Maratac Nano Zoom+ Flashlight Kit as a strong fit for these needs thanks to its tiny size, zoomable beam, and magnetic tail cap for hands-free use. Rechargeable USB-C power and an IP65 rating round out the “daily carry plus emergency” appeal.
Grinding Gears: Watch Brands In Their Echo Chambers
This story argues that watch marketing has grown less energetic and imaginative compared with the early 2010s, even as the watches themselves keep improving. Instead of bold launches and compelling visuals, many brands rely on flat imagery and dull press releases that do not match the excitement of the products. The article compares the situation to more dynamic enthusiast-facing industries and suggests watch brands need to communicate with more flair. The overall message is a call for brands to rethink how they engage both enthusiasts and casual buyers.
The Greatest Horological Masterpieces of All Time: the George Daniels Space Traveller is a Masterpiece of Horological Genius
The George Daniels Space Traveller is presented as a landmark achievement in independent watchmaking, built to honor astronauts and to display both mean solar time and sidereal time. Made almost entirely by hand, it showcases Daniels’ technical ingenuity, including his double-wheel escapement, in a pocket-watch format. Only two were produced, and both have commanded multi-million-pound prices at auction, underscoring their rarity and status. The piece frames the Space Traveller as proof that a single craftsperson can rival major manufacturers in complexity and impact.
A Look at Porsche Design Custom-Built Timepieces
Porsche Design’s Custom-Built Timepieces program lets buyers configure a watch to reflect personal style, positioning customization as a form of luxury in a crowded market. The article notes that the program has gained momentum over five years, particularly with collectors who prioritize exclusivity. Expanded options, coverage across more Porsche models, and a more advanced online configurator are presented as key reasons the program continues to grow. Pricing is described as competitive for the luxury segment, pairing brand identity with personalized design.
What we can learn from Morgan Stanley’s Ninth Annual Swiss Watch Report
Morgan Stanley’s report highlights a shrinking Swiss watch market in unit terms, with 2025 shipments falling to 14.6 million, a multi-decade low. It also emphasizes increasing concentration, with Rolex, Cartier, Audemars Piguet, and Omega capturing 55% of total industry sales. A major theme is that ultra-high-end watches above CHF 50,000 drive disproportionate growth, contributing most of the gains despite representing a tiny slice of units. The takeaway is that the sector is tilting further toward luxury collectibles, raising the stakes for smaller and mid-tier brands to differentiate culturally and strategically.
Tiffany & Co.: finding the right pace in watchmaking
Tiffany & Co. has spent the last several years reshaping its watch division around a clearer identity grounded in its long jewelry heritage and watchmaking history. The article points to newer models like the Tiffany Timer as examples of blending classic watch cues with jewelry-forward aesthetics. Tiffany positions itself first as a jeweler that makes watches, with collections meant to echo the creativity and craftsmanship found across its jewelry lines. It also stresses end-to-end oversight and gem-setting expertise, with Tiffany Blue treated as a signature design element in the brand’s watch direction.
Dynamic Design: A Spotlight on Perrelet
Perrelet’s modern identity centers on kinetic design that ties directly to its legacy of automatic winding, using motion as both function and visual signature. The brand’s double-rotor approach is described as a defining element across collections such as Dipteros and Turbine, where mechanics become part of the dial’s spectacle. The Turbine line leans into bold, engine-like styling, while other models translate the concept into more refined, comfort-focused designs. Recent developments, including the LAB Peripheral and an in-house caliber, are positioned as steps that give Perrelet more freedom to push artistry and innovation.
The Latest Time
Harbring2
Habring2 x SJX Watches Chrono-Felix Medicus
This limited-edition monopusher chronograph was designed with input from physicians and includes pulsation and respiration scales aimed at medical use. Two versions are offered, one with a brushed steel case and blue strap, and one with a sandblasted case, grey dial, and rose gold-toned accents, both powered by the hand-wound in-house calibre A11C-H0 with a 48-hour reserve. Only 50 pieces will be made, split evenly between the two variants, with deliveries planned for May through July 2026. The listed price is €7,750, which is approximately $9,130 USD, and €700 per watch is earmarked for children’s medical charities.
Krayon
The new Rose Gold Edition of the Krayon Anyday
Krayon’s Anyday Rose Gold pairs an 18k rose-gold case with a two-tone anthracite dial designed to make the workweek instantly readable, including a clear weekend versus weekday distinction. Inside is a complex 378-part in-house movement that manages intuitive date changes while still keeping the watch slim at 39mm by 9.5mm, with a 72-hour power reserve. It is presented on an anthracite lizard strap with a rose-gold pin buckle, reinforcing the dressy, functional intent. The expected retail price is about CHF 88,000, which is approximately $113,640 USD.
Mido
Mido’s Accessible Integrated Sports Watch, The Multifort 8 One Crown, Gets a Two-Tone Look
Mido’s new two-tone Multifort 8 One Crown keeps the core design but adds a rose-gold PVD octagonal bezel for a more versatile, dress-sport feel. The matte black dial uses rose-gold-toned markers and faceted hands with Super-LumiNova, while the Calibre 80 provides an 80-hour power reserve and 100 meters of water resistance. An integrated bracelet mixes satin-finished steel outer links with rose-gold-toned center links, plus quick-change capability for easy strap swaps. Price is listed as €1,150 (approximately $1,355 USD) or CHF 960 (approximately $1,240 USD).
Sinn
Sinn 903 Ti II Anniversary
This 65th-anniversary edition modernizes Sinn’s navigation-chronograph heritage with a 41mm Grade 5 titanium case and a dark blue dial designed for clarity and tool-like readability. The rotating bezel is engineered with Sinn’s DSP Technology for functional operation, and the watch is rated to 20 bar for strong everyday robustness. A self-winding column-wheel chronograph movement powers the watch with a 60-hour reserve, and the set includes both a leather strap and a titanium bracelet. The listed price is €3,980, which is approximately $4,690 USD.
Ulysse Nardin
Ulysse Nardin Freak X Gumball 3000 Edition 2. A Carbonium Hour Disc and a Miami-to-Mexico City Rally.
Limited to 150 pieces, this Freak X collaboration leans hard into the Gumball 3000 spirit with a 43mm titanium case in black DLC and a distinctive Carbonium hour disc made from aerospace-grade carbon fibers. Time is displayed in an unconventional way, with the flying carousel mechanism indicating minutes while the Carbonium disc indicates hours, supported by bright orange lume for legibility. The self-winding Calibre UN-230 delivers a 72-hour power reserve, pairing bold engineering with an equally bold look. The listed price is $46,400 USD.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Breguet
The New Breguet Classique Répétition Minutes 7365 :
Breguet’s Classique Répétition Minutes 7365 is a 250th-anniversary limited edition that pairs a newly downsized 39mm case in 18K “Breguet gold” with a ‘Bleu de France’ enamel dial and applied Breguet numerals. It is notable as Breguet’s first water-resistant minute repeater, powered by the new Calibre 1896 with a 75-hour power reserve and a mechanism engineered for refined, balanced sound. Limited to 25 pieces, it also signals a modernized direction for the brand while still leaning heavily on traditional high watchmaking craft. The review notes that some collectors may still prefer the older model’s more overtly historical feel, even as this new release represents a clear evolution.
Christopher Ward
Christopher Ward C63 Valour Review: The Best Chronograph Under $1,000?
The C63 Valour Chronograph sits within Christopher Ward’s Military collection and blends heritage cues with a modern 39mm case that feels compact but substantial. A reverse panda dial with applied Arabic numerals keeps it highly legible, while the “Light-catcher” case finishing adds visual depth through alternating brushed and polished surfaces. It runs on a COSC-certified ETA quartz chronograph movement rated at roughly ±10 seconds per year, emphasizing precision and low-maintenance practicality over mechanical romance. At $945, the review frames it as a thoughtfully positioned value pick, with minor wear quirks like occasional bracelet noise not outweighing the overall build and design.
Traska
A Hands-On Introduction To The Excellent Traska Chronograph
Traska’s chronograph adds a more technically ambitious option to the lineup, using the Seiko NE86 while still keeping the case profile relatively slim. Its display leans modern, with rotating discs handling elapsed minutes and running seconds for a fresh take on chronograph readability. The review also emphasizes the watch’s construction details, including a tungsten bezel and strong overall finishing that elevate the feel beyond what the price suggests. Priced at $1,695, it is positioned as an enthusiast-friendly choice that balances design experimentation, solid specs, and strong value.
Comparing Time
The Time+Tide Team assembles their ideal affordable three watch collections
Time+Tide set a challenge for the team to build three-watch collections totaling $5,000 or less, with no brand repeats. The picks span a wide mix of styles, from sport and travel watches to dressier options, showing different approaches to building a balanced rotation on a budget. Several contributors leaned into versatility by mixing a daily-wear piece with something more distinctive or technically interesting. The result is a snapshot of how different collectors prioritize value, variety, and personal taste under the same spending cap.
12 Top Year Of The Horse Watches For Chinese New Year
This roundup compares a wide range of Year of the Horse-themed releases, from ultra-high-end artistic pieces to more accessible celebratory models. It highlights how top Swiss brands interpret the theme through engraving, enamel work, gem-setting, and complicated movements, while also noting simpler dial-driven designs at lower price points. The selection underscores the range of approaches, from formal métiers d’art showpieces to sportier watches that still carry festive color and symbolism. Overall, it functions as a cross-market look at how the same cultural moment can produce dramatically different watches and pricing tiers.
Watching Time - Videos
Actual Luxury Bargain Watches - Alternatives to Iconic watches that DONT Suck - YouTube
This video rounds up affordable watches that deliver a luxury look and feel without the typical price tag of the icons they resemble. It focuses on options that keep the design appeal and day-to-day usability intact rather than feeling like cheap stand-ins. Along the way, it highlights what makes each alternative worth considering, including the specific features and styling choices that help them punch above their cost. The overall goal is to help viewers shop smarter for “luxury-adjacent” aesthetics on a realistic budget.
6 New Affordable Watches Just Dropped!
This video spotlights six newly released watches positioned as budget-friendly additions for people who want fresh designs without overspending. It frames the lineup as a mix of styles meant to cover different tastes, from more classic looks to trend-forward options. The emphasis is on quick, practical coverage of what each model offers visually and functionally. It is presented as a rapid way to see what is new and worth a closer look in the affordable segment.
How Are Tudor Watches Made? A Behind-the-Scenes Look - YouTube
This behind-the-scenes video walks through how Tudor watches are produced, focusing on the craftsmanship, processes, and tools involved at different stages. It highlights the attention to precision and quality control that goes into building each piece. It also ties the making process back to Tudor’s heritage, showing how traditional watchmaking values are combined with modern production methods. The result is a clear look at what distinguishes the brand beyond the finished watch on the wrist.
No Rolex. No AP. Inside Marcus Stroman’s Watch Obsession - YouTube
This video explores Marcus Stroman’s approach to collecting watches, emphasizing personal taste and design appreciation rather than defaulting to the most common status brands. It highlights the variety in the collection and the reasons certain pieces resonate, including craftsmanship and individual style. By focusing on less expected choices, it challenges the idea that serious collecting must revolve around a narrow set of luxury names. The story is framed as a look at how watches can reflect personality and meaning as much as prestige.
WATCHES HAND PICKED BY YASHA - YouTube
This video is presented as a curated selection of watches chosen by Yasha, positioned as a guided tour through notable models and styles. While the database entry does not include detailed notes on the content itself, the framing suggests a handpicked lineup with commentary on what makes each watch stand out. The emphasis is on curation and taste, with the viewer invited to experience the picks visually. It functions as a quick way to discover watches through a single curator’s point of view.
Talking Time - Podcasts
Scottish Watches Podcast #755 : All The Watches for British Watch Makers Day 2026 - With Alistair - Scottish Watches
This episode previews British Watchmakers Day 2026 with a walkthrough of 26 event-exclusive limited edition watches that will debut there. Alistair Audsley, CEO of the Alliance of British Watch and Clockmakers, joins to discuss how British watchmaking has moved from historic prominence into a modern resurgence. The conversation also highlights the sector’s recent momentum, including reported growth over the last few years and expanding employment in the industry.
SJX Podcast: Jumping on Trends | SJX Watches
Episode 30 focuses on the renewed wave of jump hour watches, noting that several notable releases arrived early in 2026. The hosts discuss new developments from major and niche players, including fresh releases and brand revivals, and how certain designs fit into the broader jump-hour conversation. The episode also widens out to address reliability in today’s watch market and what collectors should make of fast-moving trends.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com
[Monday’s auction watch, the 2023 A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Timezone White Gold / Black (136.029) - was bid to $30,000 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2018 Ulysse Nardin Hourstriker Tiger 43 Rose Gold / Black Onyx / Strap (6106-130/E2-TIGER)
Auction Report: The Tiger That Strikes Back — 2018 Ulysse Nardin Hourstriker Tiger (6106-130/E2-TIGER)
If you prefer your high complications with a dose of theatrical excess, the Ulysse Nardin Hourstriker Tiger delivers exactly that. This is not a quiet dress watch that politely tells time. It is a sonnerie-style striking watch that chimes the hours and half-hours on a gong, complete with animated tiger figures on a black onyx dial that come to life as the watch strikes. It is mechanical art with sound effects.
The Hourstriker line has long been part of Ulysse Nardin’s identity, blending chiming complications with animated jacquemarts in a way few modern brands attempt. The Tiger variant was introduced as part of that tradition, pairing a richly polished 43mm rose gold case with a deep black onyx dial and sculpted tiger automata. Powering it is the automatic UN-610 caliber, built around a striking mechanism that can be activated via pusher and silenced when discretion is required. With roughly a 42-hour power reserve and a clearly visible mechanical personality, it’s engineered as much for spectacle as for horology.
This example, dated 2018, comes as a full set with box, papers, and folio. Condition appears strong: excellent dial, hands, and crystal, with only minor signs of wear to the case and strap. With chiming watches, functionality is everything. The integrity of the strike—its clarity, consistency, and responsiveness—matters more than superficial case wear. Servicing these mechanisms is specialized and not inexpensive, so any bidder should factor that reality into their valuation calculus.
Market positioning for the Hourstriker Tiger has always been niche but serious. Retail and secondary listings historically hovered in the upper five-figure range, with asking prices sometimes approaching six figures depending on condition and completeness. Auction expectations in prior years often centered around the mid–$40,000 to mid–$50,000 range, though today’s market for complicated independent-leaning pieces can fluctuate based on collector appetite. Realistically, a fair current value window for a full-set U.S.-based example in strong condition likely falls somewhere between $55,000 and $85,000. The upper end assumes pristine operation and two motivated bidders who understand exactly what they are competing for.
The question for bidders is simple: are you buying a chiming complication with legitimate mechanical pedigree, or are you buying one of the most unapologetically dramatic wrist performances in modern watchmaking? If it’s the former, discipline matters. If it’s the latter, emotion will likely set the hammer price.
The auction closes at 4:40 PM ET on Tuesday, February 24, 2026. Decide your ceiling in advance. When the tiger starts striking, hesitation tends to get drowned out by the gong.
Current bid: $20,500