BuyingTime Daily - February 23, 2026
Tariff turmoil shakes the market as Moser, Citizen, and Panerai launch fresh heat, and heritage takes center stage. Feb 23’s watch universe, decoded.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
BuyingTime for February 23, 2026 feels a bit like checking your portfolio during a market swing: a mix of confidence, caution, and more than a little geopolitical whiplash. The U.S. Supreme Court knocked down President Trump’s emergency tariffs, only for a fresh 10% levy to appear almost immediately—then climb to 15%. For the global watch industry, especially brands importing from Switzerland, Japan, and Germany, it’s less “victory lap” and more “brace for impact.” Refunds for prior duties are theoretically on the table, but timing and logistics remain murky, leaving retailers juggling pricing strategies while consumers wonder whether now is the time to buy before the next absurd policy pivot.
At retail, though, momentum continues. Material Good opened its third U.S. boutique in Boston’s Back Bay, blending independent darlings with vintage heavyweights from Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe in a hospitality-driven 2,500-square-foot space. A Dallas expansion is next, suggesting that even in turbulent trade conditions, the appetite for curated luxury experiences remains strong.
The feature slate today is a tour across the spectrum of watchmaking culture. ROBOT Watches—formerly Bohematic—demonstrates how a Czech microbrand can weave aviation and national heritage into tightly limited production. At the Dallas Open, Rado reinforced its “Master of Materials” identity courtside, leaning into high-tech ceramics and teasing 2026 novelties. Meanwhile, the quieter corner of high horology spotlighted makers like Laurent Ferrier, Garrick, Lederer, and Naoya Hida & Co., arguing that thoughtful finishing and architectural integrity still resonate in an age of hype.
Heritage played a starring role elsewhere. Vacheron Constantin announced its first Concours d’Élégance Horlogère, inviting owners of pieces made between 1755 and 1999 to treat their watches as cultural artifacts rather than financial instruments. In New York, Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled a capsule of rare early Reversos under its Collectibles banner, reinforcing how difficult—and rewarding—it is to curate true museum-grade examples. And in Geneva, the Andersen Genève Rattrapante Mondial quietly stole the week, marrying a split-seconds chronograph with a world-time display in a case under 39mm wide—proof that restraint and complication can coexist beautifully.
On the industrial side, a deep dive into Tudor and Kenissi traced the brand’s evolution from outsourced movements to a vertically integrated ecosystem, highlighting the Le Locle manufacture and the brand’s increasingly autonomous technical identity. A broader macro column tied rising gold prices, tariff uncertainty, and scarcity dynamics—particularly at Rolex—to sustained strength in precious-metal segments, even as volatility simmers underneath.
New releases kept the product pipeline humming. Citizen doubled down on value with the Tsuyosa Shore, adding a rotating bezel and summer-ready colorways, and collaborated with seconde/seconde/ for a playful sword-handed twist. G-SHOCK partnered with Anti Social Social Club for a floral “GET WEIRD” capsule built on the DW6900. H. Moser & Cie debuted its first ceramic Streamliner Tourbillon Concept with a red fumé enamel dial, while Hermès shrank the Cape Cod into a sharply proportioned Mini. MeisterSinger celebrated 25 years with a Panthero Jumping Hour, Paneraipaired bronze and Platinumtech Radiomirs in an experience-driven set, and Roger Dubuis brought black DLC to the Excalibur Monobalancier.
Hands-on coverage ranged from the 250th anniversary minute repeater by Breguet, limited to 25 pieces, to the sculptural God of Time by Jacob & Co., and more accessible fare from Citizen and Camp. Comparison pieces weighed everything from affordable divers—Citizen Promaster versus Orient Mako II—to quiet luxury tool watches in a Rolex Explorer versus Omega Railmaster showdown.
Video content offered plenty to chew on, including predictions of potential Rolex discontinuations, a candid look at selling the Crown from a former boutique manager, a meditation on the enduring cultural weight of Seiko, and a stark take arguing the watch market is “failing”—or at least evolving under pressure.
At auction, our focus remains on the 2023 A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone (136.029) in white gold with black dial. With a current bid of $26,500 and the hammer falling at 12:06 PM ET today, it sits materially below the roughly $40K market neighborhood tracked elsewhere. If it stays there, it could represent a compelling entry into modern Lange travel-watch territory—provided condition and completeness check out.
In short, today’s watch universe is defined by duality: political turbulence paired with retail expansion, loud launches alongside quiet mastery, and macroeconomic uncertainty offset by enduring collector enthusiasm. The hands keep moving—even if policy and pricing don’t always move in sync.
-Michael Wolf
News Time
Tariffs, Timepieces, and Turbulence: Trump’s Latest Trade War Puts the Global Watch Industry on Edge
The watch industry is facing renewed volatility after the Supreme Court invalidated Trump’s emergency tariffs, only for new tariffs to arrive quickly afterward, including an immediate 10% rate that was raised to 15%. The rapid changes are pressuring brands and retailers as costs rise and margins tighten, while companies remain uncertain about whether refunds from prior tariffs will materialize. Beyond the balance sheet, the story argues that luxury watches are being pulled into political narratives, creating reputational risk on top of operational headaches. With unclear policy direction and shifting consumer sentiment, companies are left trying to plan production and pricing in a fast-moving environment.
Watch Industry Cheers Supreme Court Tariff Ruling But Faces More Uncertainty As Trump Vows Workaround
The Supreme Court struck down Trump’s emergency tariffs, a decision that could relieve watch importers who were hit with duties on imports from Switzerland, Japan, and Germany. The ruling also raises the possibility of refunds for those who paid tariffs on Swiss-made watches, though the logistics and timing remain unclear. At the same time, Trump has indicated a push to impose a new 10% global tariff (now 15%) under a different trade authority, keeping uncertainty high. The article frames the moment as a short-term win paired with ongoing instability for pricing and supply decisions across the industry.
Material Good opens its third USA boutique in Boston
Material Good has opened its third boutique in Boston’s Back Bay, adding another destination for watch enthusiasts. The new showroom mixes rare independent watch brands with vintage and pre-owned luxury pieces from names like Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. The 2,500-square-foot space is designed to feel hospitality-forward, with multiple rooms for browsing and consultation, plus jewelry and collectibles. Material Good also signals continued expansion with a Dallas location planned for Highland Park Village this spring.
Feature Time
A History and Guide to ROBOT Watches
ROBOT Watches, founded as Bohematic in 2018, has evolved into a distinctive Czech microbrand that blends national heritage with modern watchmaking. Its designs pull heavily from Czech history, aviation, and automotive engineering, with each model built to reflect that legacy. Production is intentionally limited to roughly 250 to 500 watches per year, reinforcing exclusivity and close attention to build quality. The brand largely relies on Swiss movements while also emphasizing sustainability in how it manufactures.
Courtside With Rado At The Dallas Open
At the Dallas Open, Rado highlighted its long-running ties to professional tennis as the event’s official timekeeper. While there was no tournament-specific release, the brand used the moment to preview several upcoming 2026 models and reinforce its “Master of Materials” identity. Much of that reputation is rooted in Rado’s use of high-tech ceramics across core collections, including the durable, scratch-resistant DiaStar. The event framed Rado’s material innovation as a natural match for a sport defined by toughness and endurance.
Cutting Through The Noise With The Quiet Side Of High Horology
Amid the loud launches and attention-driven designs that often dominate high horology, this piece focuses on independent brands that pursue excellence without hype. It highlights makers such as Laurent Ferrier, Garrick, Lederer, and Naoya Hida & Co., which prioritize craftsmanship, movement architecture, and thoughtful mechanical innovation over trend-chasing. These watches are positioned as deeply considered objects for collectors who value finishing and substance more than social visibility. The argument is that as tastes mature, many collectors gravitate toward what resonates personally rather than what is most talked about.
Guardians of Time: Inside Vacheron Constantin’s First Concours d’Élégance Horlogère
Vacheron Constantin is launching its first Concours d’Élégance Horlogère, modeled after automotive concours events but focused on watchmaking heritage. The competition is open to owners of Vacheron timepieces produced between 1755 and 1999, with an emphasis on cultural and historical significance rather than financial value. Entrants are encouraged to present documentation and personal narratives that frame each watch as a historical artifact. Scheduled for Geneva in November 2026, the event will award seven prizes judged by an international jury co-chaired by Aurel Bacs and Christian Selmoni.
I Spent Last Week In Geneva, And The Andersen Geneve Rattrapante Mondial Was The Best Thing I Saw
The Andersen Genève Rattrapante Mondial is presented as a standout modern complication, combining a world-time function with a split-seconds chronograph in a compact case under 39mm wide and under 12mm thick. Released in fall 2025 and limited to just eight pieces, it drew strong reactions even without winning at the GPHG awards. The watch uses an in-house world-time module to keep the profile thin, paired with a vintage Venus 179 base movement elevated through extensive craftsmanship. With a white gold dial, grand feu enamel markers, and a platinum case, it aims to merge innovation, heritage, and artisanal finishing at the highest level.
In-Depth: Inside Tudor, Kenissi and the Whole Industrial Ecosystem Behind the Brand
This deep dive explains how Tudor has transformed over the past 15 years from relying on outsourced movements to building robust in-house capabilities. It highlights the opening of the Le Locle manufacture in 2023 and describes an industrial model built around automation, strict component management, and rigorous reliability testing. Kenissi, created to develop precise and dependable movements, is positioned as central to Tudor’s modern movement strategy and also supplies other brands. The piece emphasizes Tudor’s distinct identity and quality standards, including meeting demanding certifications, while maintaining separation from Rolex despite shared heritage.
Introducing Jaeger-LeCoultre’s The Collectibles Capsule of Rare Reversos
Jaeger-LeCoultre is presenting an exhibition of eight rare Reverso watches from 1931 to 1937 at its New York City boutique as part of The Collectibles series. Curated over two years, the selection includes authenticated and restored, museum-level pieces and marks the first installment dedicated entirely to the Reverso line. The article frames the process as painstaking and treasure-hunt-like, reflecting how difficult it is to assemble and validate examples of this caliber. By showing the diversity of early Reversos in different metals and executions, the exhibit aims to deepen appreciation for the design and inspire future work.
The ABCs of Time: The Top Five Countries Where Watchmaking Reigns Supreme
This overview breaks down the five countries most associated with watchmaking today and what each contributes to the industry. Switzerland leads in high-value production and global prestige, while also supplying critical components beyond its own brands. China dominates volume, exporting hundreds of millions of watches and expanding its reputation for capable, accessible timepieces. Japan’s legacy centers on innovation and vertical integration, Germany’s on high-end precision craftsmanship, and France’s on a deep heritage anchored by major maisons even if fewer are known for in-house movements.
The Audible Joy of Alarm Watches
Mechanical alarm watches are framed here as an underrated engineering achievement that adds a rare sensory dimension to horology. The story traces the complication’s evolution, from Eterna’s early work to Vulcain’s Cricket, which set the standard by delivering an alarm that could ring for about 25 seconds. It notes how other brands later contributed their own interpretations, expanding the category while keeping it relatively niche. Despite their historical significance, the piece argues that alarm watches remain undervalued and offer collectors an unusually fun and affordable way to experience a complex mechanical feature.
The Collector Column: Watch Pricing Trends And Market Insights
This column argues that the Swiss watch market’s price momentum is being driven by macro forces, geopolitics, and changing buyer psychology. It cites rising precious metal prices, including gold at an all-time high, alongside tariffs that add urgency for buyers trying to get ahead of future increases. The piece suggests watches are increasingly viewed not only as luxury objects but also as perceived safe-haven stores of value in uncertain conditions. With scarcity dynamics from tightly controlled production, especially at Rolex, it anticipates continued strength in higher-end precious-metal segments.
The definitive watch hand style guide
This guide explains the major watch-hand styles and why the terminology matters for understanding watch design. It walks through common types like alpha, arrow, baton, and Breguet hands, describing the defining shapes and typical use cases. It also covers styles such as cathedral, dauphine, and snowflake, showing how variations evolved across eras and brands. The goal is to make the visual “language” of hands easier to recognize, while inviting deeper appreciation for how functional design choices shape a watch’s personality.
Opinion Time
Swiss Diplomacy, Presidential Optics, and a Rolex Desk Clock: When Tariffs Meet Timepieces
This piece examines how Swiss luxury watch executives engaged in high-level “watch diplomacy” with President Trump during a period of tariff pressure, and how tariff reductions that followed fueled questions about influence and optics. It highlights the symbolism of luxury gifting, including a Rolex desk clock, and argues that while such gestures are not automatically improper, they blur lines between branding, access, and policy. With tariffs now returning and uncertainty rising again after the Supreme Court’s ruling, the story asks what those gifts and meetings ultimately represented. The takeaway is that retailers and consumers bear real cost impacts, even as the political theater around luxury objects continues.
Event Time
Seiko To Host The “Power Design Project Presents: Passionately And Obsessively Crafted Watches” Exhibition
Seiko will host the “Power Design Project Presents: Passionately and Obsessively Crafted Watches” exhibition in Tokyo from March 14 to 29, 2026. This is the fourth edition of the Power Design Project, which challenges Seiko’s designers to create unconventional, avant-garde watches that break from traditional norms. The show will feature seven one-of-a-kind timepieces intended to surprise enthusiasts and rekindle excitement around craft and design. The initiative traces back to an earlier run from 2001 to 2009 and was revived in 2022 to push bold new creative directions.
WatchPro Announces Headline Panelists For Exclusive Women In Watches Event
WatchPro is hosting an exclusive Women in Watches event on March 2, 2026 in London to spotlight the accomplishments of women across the watch industry. The program includes two panels, one focused on leadership, representation, career pathways, and structural challenges, and another on how women as collectors and buyers are influencing product development and marketing. The event will take place at Art’otel Battersea and is designed as a brunch plus networking experience with city views. Attendance is free with RSVP, but space is limited and guests are encouraged to reserve a place via the organizers.
The Latest Time
Citizen
The Summer-Ready Citizen Tsuyosa Shore, now with Rotating Bezel
Citizen expands the Tsuyosa lineup with the Shore collection, adding a unidirectional rotating bezel, improved water resistance to 100 meters, and a slightly thicker case geared toward active wear. The watches keep the familiar 40mm size and stainless steel finishing, plus a sapphire crystal with a date magnifier, and they arrive in several summer-forward colorways. Inside is Citizen’s Calibre 8210 automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve. Pricing starts at about $388 (converted from EUR 329) and goes up to about $423 (converted from EUR 359), depending on the version.
The Razor-Sharp Citizen Tsuyosa x seconde/seconde/
This limited edition collaboration with artist Romaric André takes the Tsuyosa’s sporty-chic base and adds a provocative twist: a sword-shaped minute hand that visually “cuts” through the hour markers. The watch keeps the 40mm steel case and sapphire crystal, and it runs on Citizen’s in-house Calibre 8210 with roughly a 42-hour power reserve, plus an openworked rotor for extra visual punch. Limited to 3,600 pieces, it leans into playful design while staying firmly wearable. The price is about $529 (converted from EUR 449), though the story also notes a USD retail of $475.
G-Shock
G-SHOCK and Anti Social Social Club Launch a New Collaborative Capsule Collection
G-SHOCK teams up with Anti Social Social Club on a capsule collection headlined by a DW6900 with a clear resin case and strap, covered in a pastel floral and butterfly motif and stamped with “GET WEIRD.” Alongside the watch, the drop includes coordinated apparel and accessories that carry the same graphic direction. True to the DW6900’s reputation, the watch is built for durability and includes a stopwatch, countdown timer, multiple alarms, a backlight, and 200 meters of water resistance. The DW6900 in the collaboration is priced at $170.
H. Moser & Cie
H. Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic
H. Moser & Cie introduces its first ceramic-cased watch, bringing anthracite grey ceramic to the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept in a cushion-shaped design that emphasizes the collection’s flowing lines. The minimalist concept approach continues with a red fumé Grand Feu enamel dial featuring a hammered texture and no indices or logo, while a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock adds constant motion. Power comes from the HMC 805 automatic movement, noted for its precision-focused engineering including a double hairspring. The retail price is about $115,428 (converted from CHF 89,000).
Hermès
Introducing: Hermès Cape Cod Mini—Smaller Case, Sharper Identity
Hermès scales down the Cape Cod into a 20 x 27 mm “Mini,” using proportion to sharpen the design’s graphic impact and tighten the relationship between case and strap. The collection spans seven variations in steel and yellow gold, with dial colors including sunburst silver, Étoupe, and Rouge H. Each model uses a Swiss quartz movement, includes an anti-glare sapphire crystal, and is rated to 30 meters of water resistance, positioning it as elegant and practical. Pricing is not confirmed in the database entry.
MeisterSinger
MeisterSinger Panthero Jumping Hour Collection
MeisterSinger marks its 25th anniversary with the Panthero Jumping Hour, introducing a new 40.5mm case and a dial layout built around a jumping-hour aperture at 12 o’clock and an off-centered minutes display. A rotating “sun wheel” adds a distinctive visual flourish, emphasizing the collection’s design-forward intent even if it is not functional. The watch is powered by the MS-JH-01 (Sellita SW300-based) with a proprietary jumping-hour module developed with Dubois-Depraz, visible through a sapphire caseback. Prices start at about $8,237 (converted from EUR 6,990) and rise to about $9,415 (converted from EUR 7,990) for the limited edition.
Panerai
A Set Of Two Panerai Radiomir Viaggio Nel Tempo Experience Editions
Panerai releases a highly limited set of two Radiomir “Viaggio nel Tempo” Experience Editions, pairing a Bronzo model with a Platinumtech variant, with only 30 sets available. Each watch leans into a different side of Panerai’s identity, with the bronze piece emphasizing maritime character and patina, and the Platinumtech option delivering a more overtly luxurious finish, both driven by manual-wind movements. The purchase also includes a curated Florence-based experience tied to Panerai’s heritage and a coastal cruise, positioning the set as both product and event for collectors. The set is priced at about $170,861 (converted from EUR 145,000).
Roger Dubuis
Roger Dubuis Introduce Excalibur Monobalancier in Black DLC
This Excalibur Monobalancier iteration pairs a 42mm titanium case with a black DLC coating and a skeletonized presentation that puts the RD720SQ automatic movement front and center. The movement runs at 28,800 vph and offers a 72-hour power reserve, with finishing that includes details certified by the Poinçon de Genève. A black rubber strap with a quick-release system and 100 meters of water resistance underline the “wear it” intent despite the high-horology look. The listed price is about $85,945 (converted from £63,000).
Wearing Time - Reviews
Breguet
Hands On: Breguet Classique Répétition Minutes 7365 Blue Enamel
Breguet’s Classique Répétition Minutes 7365 Blue Enamel is a minute repeater created to mark the brand’s 250th anniversary, pairing a refined, smaller case with a vivid Bleu de France enamel dial and classic Breguet hands. Inside is a heavily reworked movement derived from a long-established Lemania base, now modernized with upgrades like a titanium balance and silicon escapement. Those changes help deliver a substantial 75-hour power reserve, while the finishing and hand-engraving keep the watch rooted in traditional high craft. Limited to 25 pieces, it is priced at $369,000.
Camp
The Camp Fieldtimer Is Secretly A Car-Inspired Watch
The Camp Fieldtimer looks like a straightforward field watch at first glance, but it weaves in subtle automotive cues inspired by the BMW 02 series. Its lacquer dial is built from fifteen layers of enamel, creating depth while also enhancing durability, and it comes in three limited colorways: Atlantic Blue, Florida Green, and Málaga Red. Power comes from the Swiss Sellita SW210-1b movement, and the watch is rated to 100 meters of water resistance for everyday versatility. It includes three quick-release strap options and is priced at $900.
Citizen
Citizen series 8 nb6080-51w mechanical watch
The Citizen Series 8 NB6080-51W is positioned as a sleek, modern mechanical watch with a slimmer profile, measuring 39.3mm wide and 10.4mm thick, making it especially wearable on smaller wrists. The pistachio-green dial takes inspiration from Tokyo’s night skyline and is designed to stay both stylish and legible. It runs on Citizen’s Cal. 9051 automatic movement, offering strong anti-magnetic performance, a 42-hour power reserve, and a 28,800 bph beat rate. A three-link bracelet and bi-folding clasp round it out as a daily-wear competitor in its segment.
Jacob & Co.
Jacob & Co. God Of Time Hands-On: A 60th Birthday Watch For Jacob Arabo
Made to celebrate Jacob Arabo’s 60th birthday, the Jacob & Co. God of Time centers on a tourbillon that spins every four seconds, paired with a constant force system to keep energy delivery steady. The dial features a hand-carved 18k rose gold depiction of Chronos against a starry blue aventurine background, reinforcing the theme in a highly sculptural way. The large 18k rose gold case takes architectural cues from Ionic columns and is water resistant to 30 meters, with a manually wound movement offering a 60-hour power reserve. Limited to 60 pieces, the watch is priced at $360,000.
Comparing Time
Best time-only watches
This roundup highlights ten standout time-only watches that prove simplicity can still feel special, spanning entry-level picks to serious high-end icons. It includes approachable options like the Timex Marlin alongside highly respected classics such as the Rolex Submariner and Cartier Tank Louis, showing how broad the category really is. The selections emphasize clean design, everyday versatility, and real-world availability rather than complicated specs. Overall, it’s a celebration of watches that focus on core timekeeping with strong aesthetics and lasting appeal.
Bring a Loupe: A Vintage Diver From Zenith, An Over-Jeweled Waltham, Offerings From ‘The Crown,’ And A Buyer Beware
This edition of “What’s Selling Where” spotlights several notable listings, including a rare Zenith S58 Mk4 diver, a 100-jewel Waltham, an appealing Tudor ref. 4453, and a 1989 Rolex Datejust with a striking burl wood dial. The piece contrasts what makes each watch interesting, from the Zenith’s clean, collectible look to the Waltham’s reminder of the marketing excesses of the “jewel wars.” It also flags concerns around a questionable Omega Constellation that may have been refinished, underscoring how easy it is to get misled in vintage buying. The overall takeaway is to enjoy the hunt, but scrutinize condition and originality before committing.
Buying Guide: Honouring The Tourbillon, With Six True Showstoppers
This guide frames the tourbillon as one of watchmaking’s most mesmerizing inventions and compares six modern executions that push the complication into wildly different design languages. It highlights pieces that range from visually “floating” multi-axis constructions to sci-fi inspired displays with rotating discs, showing how brands use the tourbillon as both technical flex and artistic centerpiece. Alongside the spectacle, the watches are positioned as limited-production objects that represent top-tier finishing and engineering. The result is a survey of how far the tourbillon has evolved from historical roots into contemporary high horology.
Citizen Promaster BN0151 vs Orient Mako II: Best Affordable Dive Watch After Reviewing
This comparison weighs two affordable dive-watch favorites that share 200-meter water resistance but deliver very different ownership experiences. The Orient Mako II leans into mechanical charm with its automatic F6922 movement, appealing to anyone who enjoys the tactile connection of a traditional diver. The Citizen Promaster BN0151 prioritizes practicality with its solar Eco-Drive movement, offering consistent performance with minimal maintenance. After extended testing, the piece ultimately favors the Promaster as the better long-term “grab-and-go” option.
Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex GMT-Master II Alternatives In 2026
This list compares five travel-watch alternatives for anyone who wants the GMT-Master II vibe without the price or flash. The picks range from high-end options like Grand Seiko’s SBGJ277 “Sekkei” with its distinctive bezel and dial, to more accessible choices like the Nodus Contrail GMT at $825. Other selections emphasize different strengths, such as vintage-inspired styling, modern movements, and more comfortable case sizing. The overall message is that there are multiple credible paths to a great GMT experience beyond Rolex.
Rolex Explorer vs Omega Railmaster: Which Quiet Luxury Tool Watch Wins?
This head-to-head looks at two “quiet luxury” tool watches that aim to be discreet, capable, and refined without trying to impress loudly. The Rolex Explorer is positioned as a compact, emotionally resonant classic with proven long-term dependability and a strong link to Rolex heritage. The Omega Railmaster counters with modern performance, including Master Chronometer credentials and a practical brushed case suited for everyday wear. The comparison ultimately picks the Railmaster as the stronger stealth tool-watch choice for 2026.
Sunday Morning Showdown: Audemars Piguet Neo Frame Jumping Hour Vs. Cartier Tank À Guichets
This showdown compares Cartier’s revived Tank à Guichets with Audemars Piguet’s Neo Frame Jumping Hour through the lens of design, wearability, and the balance between tradition and experimentation. Cartier’s approach is praised for preserving classic proportions and understated elegance across precious-metal options. Audemars Piguet’s Neo Frame is portrayed as larger and sportier, using modern finishes and bolder design choices while still nodding to vintage inspiration. The piece frames the debate as a question of whether lasting appeal comes from faithful heritage or from pushing forward with more daring evolution.
The Flyback: Horsie Watches, A Compelling MeisterSinger, And A Shrunken Bulova
This column surveys several watches tied to Year of the Horse themes, comparing how different brands interpret the idea at wildly different price points. Highlights include an ornate Vacheron Constantin with an engraved gold horse on an enamel dial, plus a complex Louis Moinet tourbillon piece with an intricate hand-painted puzzle-dial execution. It also contrasts more accessible and playful takes like Swatch’s “Riding the Clouds,” alongside a smaller Bulova Super Seville aimed at demand for more compact sizing. Overall, it’s a broad look at how a single theme can produce everything from novelty to true high craft.
Watching Time - Videos
BIG Rolex discontinuations ahead? 2026 Predictions - YouTube - Britt Pearce
This video looks ahead to 2026 and discusses which Rolex models could be on the chopping block based on recent brand behavior, market signals, and past discontinuation patterns. It frames discontinuations as more than just product churn, since they can reshape collector demand and shift attention to specific references. The discussion also touches on how rumored changes can ripple through pricing and desirability for both current and recently discontinued models. Overall, it is positioned as a watch-collector focused forecast rather than a recap of confirmed announcements.
Blancpain Villeret: Tradition in Its Purest Form - YouTube - Revolution Watch
This video spotlights the Blancpain Villeret collection as a distillation of traditional watchmaking, with an emphasis on classic design language and meticulous finishing. It highlights the craftsmanship and attention to detail that define the line, treating the watches as heritage objects as much as functional timekeepers. The narrative reinforces how Blancpain preserves old-world techniques while still integrating modern refinements where they make sense. The result is a portrait of the Villeret as an intentionally timeless expression of the brand.
ON TIME: Roman Sharf Exposes Independent Watchmakers
Roman Sharf explores independent watchmaking through the lens of individual artisans, focusing on the techniques, creativity, and personal stories that make their work distinct. The video emphasizes the challenges independents face in an industry dominated by larger, better-resourced brands. It also argues that what sets independent makers apart is authenticity, originality, and hands-on craft rather than scale. Viewers are invited to come away with a deeper appreciation for the artistry and complexity behind small-run, maker-driven watches.
Seiko: Flawed. But still the G.O.A.T.
This video makes the case for Seiko as one of the most important watch brands of all time, even while acknowledging imperfections. It frames Seiko’s reputation around a long history of innovation and craftsmanship that has consistently kept the brand relevant to enthusiasts. Rather than presenting Seiko as untouchable, it leans into the idea that the brand’s quirks are part of what makes it compelling. The overall arc positions Seiko as a cultural and technical pillar in modern horology.
The Military Watches Tudor Doesn’t Want Us to Know About
This video digs into Tudor’s lesser-known military-issued and military-adjacent watches, positioning them as historically significant but often overlooked pieces of the brand’s story. It highlights how these watches were built around durability and purpose-driven design, reflecting Tudor’s tool-watch strengths. The discussion calls out specific models and details that have kept them under the radar compared with the brand’s more widely marketed lines. It is a history-and-specs exploration meant to reframe Tudor’s military output as a meaningful collecting lane.
The Watch Market Is FAILING - YouTube - Andrew Morgan Watches | The Talking Hands
This video argues that the watch market is under strain, pointing to factors like shifting consumer preferences, smartwatch pressure, product oversaturation, and messaging that is not landing with newer buyers. It suggests that brands and retailers may need to rethink how they connect with customers, including stronger storytelling and more relevant marketing. The broader theme is adaptation, with the idea that relying on the old playbook is not enough in a changing landscape. The video frames the situation as serious, but not unsolvable if the industry responds strategically.
This TOTALLY Unexpected Collaboration Just Gave an Affordable Icon Just Got a Playful Twist
This video centers on a surprising collaboration that reimagines an affordable, well-known watch “icon” with a more playful design direction. It emphasizes the novelty of the partnership and the way a familiar product can feel fresh when the creative approach shifts. The story positions the release as both a design update and a broader signal of how brands are using collaborations to generate excitement. The tone is built around anticipation and curiosity about how the twist will land with fans once it is in-market.
Tim Mosso Picks the Best of the Worst Watches - YouTube - The 1916 Company
Tim Mosso approaches so-called “bad” watches with a more open-minded lens, highlighting pieces that are flawed by conventional standards but still have charm, personality, or interesting design intent. The video encourages collectors to think beyond prestige rankings and to recognize that desirability is often subjective. By reframing the “worst” category as something that can still be entertaining and collectible, it pushes a more personal, taste-driven approach to watch enthusiasm. The result is a discussion that treats watch culture as broader and weirder than the usual luxury hierarchy.
What It’s REALLY Like to Sell Rolex – Former Boutique Manager Tells All
A former Rolex boutique manager shares what the job is actually like, focusing on the mix of luxury retail, brand stewardship, and relationship-building that defines the role. The video emphasizes that for many clients, buying a Rolex is emotional and milestone-driven, so sales interactions often involve empathy and storytelling as much as product knowledge. It also touches on the pressures of a competitive market where authenticity and reputation matter and where expectations are high on both sides of the counter. The overall portrait is of a high-touch environment where training, client management, and brand narrative shape the selling experience.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com
[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2025 Rolex Land-Dweller 36 Everose Gold / Fluted / White Honeycomb Motif / Arabic / Flat Jubilee (127235-0001) - was bid to $46,500 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2023 A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Timezone White Gold / Black (136.029)
Auction Report: The Black-Dial Glashütte Passport — 2023 A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone (136.029)
If you want a “travel watch” that doesn’t look like it came from an airport boutique, the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone is basically the German answer: understated, asymmetrical, mechanically serious, and quietly expensive. Reference 136.029 pairs a 41.9mm white-gold case with a black dial (solid silver base) and Lange’s signature big date, plus a city ring and a second-time display that’s actually readable at a glance.
A quick bit of context: the Lange 1 is one of the four watches that relaunched the modern brand in 1994, and the Lange 1 Time Zone concept arrived in 2005 as the “Lange 1, but for people who cross oceans.” The current-generation Time Zone was refreshed with the calibre L141.1 (manual wind, about 72 hours of power reserve) and a cleaner, more intuitive day/night presentation, while keeping the familiar 41.9mm architecture.
What makes this model work is the interface. Your home time lives in the main off-center dial, while the second time zone is tied to the city ring and shown in the smaller sub-dial; you can jump cities using the corrector, and the indications move in a way that feels engineered rather than “feature-stacked.” Day/night indicators sit inside both time displays, and the city system is built around 24 time zones—very “board a flight, land, press, done.”
On this specific lot: it’s a 2023 example with box and papers, described as pre-owned with excellent dial/hands/crystal and only minor signs of wear on the case/bezel and strap. That’s about what you want for a modern Lange that’s been enjoyed but not abused—especially because over-polishing can soften case geometry on any high-end piece, and Lange finishing deserves to be kept crisp.
Value-wise, Lange doesn’t post a public MSRP here (“price upon request”), but third-party tracking and live-market listings give a sensible bracket. WatchCharts has the retail price pegged at $63,000 (as of March 2023) and a market price around $40,522 (as of Feb. 21, 2026). That lines up with what you see in the wild: multiple Chrono24 listings for 136.029 cluster broadly in the low-to-mid $40Ks, with some higher asks depending on year, provenance, and whether it’s truly mint/full-set. In other words, if this auction closes materially below that ~$40K neighborhood (fees included), it’s likely “interesting”; if it runs well above it, you’re paying for immediacy, condition confidence, and the black-dial/white-gold desirability.
Timing note: the auction ends today, Monday, February 23, 2026 at 12:06 PM ET. Into the close, the practical checklist is simple: confirm the set is complete (box, papers, correct accessories), scrutinize case edges and lug definition for polishing, and make sure the time-zone functions (city jumps, corrector action, day/night indicators) are behaving cleanly—because complicated dials are only charming when everything snaps precisely the way it should.
If you win it at the right number, this is one of the rare “serious collector” travel watches that still feels like a watchmaker’s watch: unmistakably Lange 1, but with real utility that doesn’t turn the dial into a cockpit.
Current bid: $ $26,500