BuyingTime Daily - February 20, 2026
Dua Lipa joins Bvlgari, Rolex dominance debated, Jacob & Co surges, Tudor history revisited, and fresh drops from Seiko to Yema. Plus AP, auctions & more.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe for February 20, 2026 feels like a snapshot of an industry balancing star power, structural dominance, and a surprising amount of creative churn. Bvlgari makes headlines by naming Dua Lipa as its new global brand ambassador, a move that reinforces how luxury houses increasingly lean on cultural relevance as much as craft. The messaging around empowerment and authenticity fits neatly into Bvlgari’s modern identity, and it’s a reminder that jewelry and watches now live just as much on global stages and social feeds as they do in boutiques.
Meanwhile, the ongoing conversation about Rolex and its market dominance refuses to fade. Reports suggesting that Rolex may account for close to two-thirds of luxury Swiss watch sales in 2025—despite lower production—underline just how tightly the brand controls supply, pricing, and perception. It’s not a legal monopoly, but it is undeniably a gravitational force. That dynamic shapes everything from retail standards to grey market premiums and leaves competitors navigating an ecosystem largely defined by one crown logo. On the growth side of the ledger, Jacob & Co. stands out as 2025’s fastest-growing Swiss watch brand, with revenue climbing to $180 million and unit sales up 24%. In a year marked by broader contraction, that combination of aggressive retail expansion, diversified pricing, and over 30 new releases shows there is still room for bold, expansion-minded players.
The feature coverage dives into heritage and mechanics. The untold military history of Tudor reminds us how real-world service, particularly with the French Navy, shaped the brand’s evolution from value-oriented sibling to respected tool-watch icon. Snowflake hands weren’t a styling gimmick; they were born from legibility demands. A separate explainer on in-house movements untangles one of watchmaking’s most abused marketing terms, clarifying how “in-house” can range from fully vertically integrated production to more nuanced in-group or proprietary arrangements. The takeaway is practical: prestige and identity may increase with in-house calibers, but servicing complexity and long-term maintenance should remain part of the ownership equation. In Editorial Time, Ressence gets its due as a modern design-first disruptor, with the Type 2 and its eCrown® system positioned as a bridge between mechanical romance and digital-era practicality. The real magic, as noted, happens when you finally see one in person.
The new-release slate is broad and energetic. Ba111od leans into heritage with its Chapter 8 “Family Legacy” editions, pairing 19th-century design cues with a Soprod automatic at approachable pricing. Christopher Ward takes a darker turn with the Twelve X Black Shadow Limited Edition, DLC-coating the integrated case and showcasing its in-house CW-001 movement with a 120-hour reserve. Mondaine keeps things practical with a larger 40mm Classic Day Date quartz model, while Nivada Grenchen celebrates its centenary with a refreshed F77 Mk2 lineup spanning steel and stone dials. Orient Star marks 75 years with a limited M42 Diver channeling 1960s DNA, Seiko injects street culture into the Seiko 5 Sports HUF collaboration, and Yema introduces the slim Wristmaster Small Seconds, including a laser-engraved snow camo edition limited to 100 pieces. From sub-$500 daily wearers to micro-rotor mechanical statements, the spread of price points and design philosophies feels intentionally wide.
In Wearing Time, Audemars Piguet earns praise for the 38mm Royal Oak Chronograph powered by the new cal. 6401, a welcome evolution for collectors with smaller wrists who still want full chronograph credentials. An owner’s review of the Elliot Brown Holton GMT highlights durability and lume-forward practicality, while Moritz Grossmann delivers haute horlogerie drama with a titanium tourbillon limited to just 12 pieces, reinforcing that traditional hand-finishing and modern materials can coexist beautifully.
Video coverage adds context and debate. One provocative segment argues that modern Swiss watchmaking relies heavily on Chinese manufacturing capacity, challenging romantic notions of purely domestic craft. Another dissects buying a Rolex on the grey market, emphasizing both the thrill and the risk. There’s also a breakdown of Rolex’s so-called “secret strategy” of supply discipline, a Tudor military deep dive with James Dowling, a fresh look at the new Yema Wristmaster, and a broader conversation about whether today’s collectors have become a bit too “basic.” If nothing else, the video lineup reinforces how collecting now lives across YouTube thumbnails as much as it does under loupe magnification.
On the auction front, Thursday’s Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5146G-010 reached $22,499 but failed to meet reserve, leaving the door open for a post-auction offer. The spotlight today, however, is squarely on the 2025 Rolex Land-Dweller 36 in Everose with the white honeycomb dial, currently bid to $46,500 and closing at 12:15 PM EST. As a first-year reference with the high-frequency calibre 7135 and Dynapulse escapement, it represents Rolex’s newest technical and aesthetic direction in one precious-metal package. Whether it settles near retail or pushes decisively beyond will tell us something about how quickly the market is absorbing Rolex’s latest platform.
All told, February 20 feels like a day where celebrity partnerships, industrial concentration, mechanical nuance, and fresh product launches all collide. The watch universe remains polarized at the top, inventive in the middle, and increasingly self-aware about its own narratives. And that tension, as always, is what keeps it interesting.
Michael Wolf
News Time
Bvlgari Names Dua Lipa As Global Brand Ambassador
Bvlgari has appointed Dua Lipa as its global brand ambassador, leaning into her influence as one of the most visible artists of her generation. The brand frames the partnership around shared themes of empowerment, freedom, and authenticity, positioning Lipa as a natural fit for its modern luxury identity. Lipa says she is excited to work with Bvlgari and highlights how the brand’s jewelry can elevate personal style into something more distinctive.
Is a Rolex monopoly dangerous to the Swiss watch industry?
Rolex’s growing dominance in luxury Swiss watches is raising concerns about whether its market power is becoming unhealthy for competition. Reports cited here suggest Rolex represented close to two-thirds of luxury watch sales in 2025, and even with lower production, revenue increased thanks to higher average prices. The story argues that while Rolex is not a legal monopoly, its control over distribution and pricing gives it outsized influence over retail standards and demand. The net effect is pressure on competitors, with Rolex continuing to shape the market by limiting supply and sustaining pricing power.
Jacob & Co Named Fastest Growing Swiss Watch Brand Of 2025
Jacob & Co. was named the fastest-growing Swiss watch brand of 2025 in the Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult Swiss Watcher report. The article notes revenue of $180 million, up 14%, alongside a 24% increase in unit sales to 3,975 watches, standing out in a broader year of industry decline. Growth is attributed to a strategy shift started in 2021, including a wider product mix, broader pricing, and reworked global distribution. The brand also expanded retail significantly, opening dozens of new stores and boutiques while launching more than 30 new watches in 2025.
Feature Time
An untold history of Tudor military watches
Tudor’s military-watch story is closely tied to its original role as a more affordable sibling to Rolex, including shared components and a strong value proposition. Early Tudor Submariners earned real military acceptance, notably with the French Navy, because they delivered durability and straightforward functionality. That practical service use pushed design evolution, including the adoption of the brand’s signature snowflake hands to improve legibility in demanding conditions. Over time, Tudor grew beyond the “working man’s Rolex” label into a distinct “everyman’s watch” identity that still draws on that tool-watch heritage.
Back To Basics: What Is An In-House Movement, And How Does It Affect Your Ownership Experience?
The article explains that “in-house” is a slippery term with no single industry-wide definition, even though it often implies a movement that is designed, developed, and produced by the brand on the dial. In practice, many brands outsource certain components, which has led to gray areas like “in-group” calibers made by affiliated manufacturers and proprietary movements that are exclusive but still externally sourced. From an ownership perspective, in-house movements can offer prestige and a sense of unique craft, while ébauche-based options tend to be easier to service and compare across brands. As more companies move toward proprietary solutions, buyers get more variety and brand identity, but may also face added complexity in long-term servicing.
Editorial Time
Editorial: the Ressence Renaissance
Ressence is framed as one of the most compelling modern watch brands, even if the combination of rarity and high prices keeps many people from experiencing the watches in person. The piece highlights how the brand’s design-first approach, plus collaborations with major names like Tony Fadell and Marc Newson, makes the watches feel closer to functional art than pure tools. It points to the Type 2 and its eCrown® concept as a clear example of blending mechanical romance with practical, modern convenience. The editorial closes on the idea that Ressence’s real power is emotional, and that the first in-person encounter is the moment where the “dream” either fully lands or falls short.
The Latest Time
Balllod
Introducing: The Ba111od Chapter 8 Family Legacy Special Editions
Ba111od marks its Neuchâtel watchmaking heritage with Chapter 8 “Family Legacy” Special Editions, taking design cues from a 19th-century pocket watch while using modern proportions. The watches use a 41mm x 48mm steel case, with either a bare finish or gold-plated treatment, plus a domed sapphire crystal and a clean, guilloché-and-sunray styled dial. Power comes from the automatic Soprod C110, with a 42-hour reserve visible through the caseback, and the design leans dressy with details like an onion crown and leather straps. Pricing is listed at CHF 1,110 (about $1,439.60 USD).
Christopher Ward
Christopher Ward Launch Twelve X Black Shadow Limited Edition
Christopher Ward updates the Twelve X with the “Black Shadow” Limited Edition, applying a DLC coating to the steel case for a tougher, stealthier look and limiting production to 150 pieces. The 41mm integrated design keeps the Twelve X silhouette, while the skeletonized dial puts the in-house CW-001 movement on display with a 120-hour power reserve. It is positioned as a restrained, modern sports watch with 100m water resistance, a screw-down crown, and luminous markers for daily usability. Pricing is listed at £4,325 on bracelet (about $5,889.60 USD) or £3,940 on rubber (about $5,369.40 USD).
Mondaine
Mondaine Add Classic Day Date 40mm Edition to Classic Collection
Mondaine expands its Classic Day Date line with a 40mm model, bringing a larger case size to the collection while keeping the clean, Swiss Railway Watch-inspired aesthetic. The update also addresses usability with a larger crown for easier setting, while retaining the brand’s signature hands and straightforward day-date display at 3 o’clock. It runs on a quartz Ronda calibre 517 RQ for low-maintenance reliability, paired here with a vegan grape leather strap. The price is listed at £239 (about $325.00 USD).
Nivada Grenchen
Nivada Grenchen Celebrates 100 Years With A Load of New F77 Mk2 Releases
Nivada Grenchen celebrates its centenary with the F77 Mk2, refreshing a vintage-inspired integrated-bracelet design with updates aimed at modern wearability. The release includes multiple 38mm steel variants, spanning textured dials and stone options like meteorite and lapis, while keeping legibility strong with applied indices and luminous details. Inside is the Soprod P024 automatic movement, and the design adds practical touches such as downturned lugs and easier strap swapping. Prices are listed from $1,160 to $1,360 USD depending on configuration.
Orient Star
Orient Star 75th Anniversary M42 Diver 1964 1st Edition F6 Date 200m
Orient Star’s 75th Anniversary M42 Diver is a limited tribute to the brand’s 1960s-era dive-watch history, with styling inspired by the 1964 Olympia Calendar Diver. It combines a gradient dark blue dial, a solid steel unidirectional bezel, and strong lume with modern dive specs, including 200m water resistance and ISO 6425 positioning. The watch uses the in-house automatic calibre F6N47 with a 50-hour power reserve, and comes on a five-link steel bracelet with a diver’s extension. It is limited to 700 pieces and priced at EUR 1,300 (about $1,542.20 USD).
Seiko
Seiko 5 Sports HUF Limited Edition SRPM09
The Seiko 5 Sports HUF SRPM09 is a street-culture collaboration that riffs on Seiko’s Time Sonar-inspired look, with a semi-transparent neon green dial that puts the day-date mechanism on display. Limited to 7,000 pieces, it uses a 39.4mm steel case and a bracelet, with visual hits like an orange seconds hand and applied markers. The watch runs on Seiko’s in-house automatic 4R36 with a 41-hour power reserve, and it offers 100m water resistance for everyday wear. Price is listed at EUR 410 (about $486.40 USD), with availability noted for March 2026.
Yema
New Yema Wristmaster Slim Small Seconds, Including a Surpising Camo Version
Yema adds the Wristmaster Slim Small Seconds as a modern, 1960s-inspired sports watch built around the in-house micro-rotor calibre CMM.29, helping keep the profile notably slim at 9mm. The core model comes in blue or green and pairs a 39mm case with practical specs like a screw-down crown and 100m water resistance, plus a scalloped bezel detail that nods to older Yema designs. A standout limited “snow camo” version uses laser engraving across the case, dial, and bracelet, and it is limited to 100 pieces. Pricing is listed at EUR 2,249 (about $2,667.50 USD) for the regular models, or EUR 2,399 (about $2,845.40 USD) for the snow camo edition.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Audemars Piguet
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph in 38mm Is The Option Smaller-Wristed Collectors Deserve
This review highlights the 38mm Royal Oak Chronograph as a strong choice for collectors who want the Royal Oak look on smaller wrists without sacrificing the full chronograph experience. A key update is the new in-house cal. 6401, positioned as a meaningful step up in reliability and performance versus the prior movement. The dial layout is described as more balanced, with better subdial placement, and the display caseback shows off the new caliber. At $43,000, it sits only slightly above the older version while delivering a more refined and wearable package.
Elliot Brown Watches
Owner’s Review: the Elliot Brown Holton Automatic GMT Black Whiteout
This owner’s review focuses on real-world use of the Holton Automatic GMT “Black Whiteout,” emphasizing toughness and day-to-day practicality. The fully lumed dial is a standout feature, making the watch easy to read in low light and reinforcing its tool-watch intent. The GMT function is framed as genuinely useful for tracking multiple time zones, and the watch is praised for staying unmarked despite heavy wear at events. The reviewer notes that the size and presence will not work for everyone, but for the owner it is a favorite because the design is both distinctive and functional.
Moritz Grossmann
The Superb Moritz Grossmann Tourbillon in Titanium
This review presents the Tourbillon in Titanium as a limited, craft-forward statement piece, with only 12 examples made and a design that blends classical finishing with a modern titanium case. The 44.5mm case houses a solid silver dial with fine guilloché, while a large flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock (rotating every three minutes) becomes the visual centerpiece. Inside is the hand-wound calibre 103.0 in untreated German silver with a 72-hour power reserve, reinforcing the watch’s haute horlogerie credentials. The price is listed at EUR 165,700, reflecting the level of mechanical artistry and rarity on offer.
Watching Time - Videos
“Swiss Watchmaking” Only Exists Because of China
This video argues that modern Swiss watchmaking depends heavily on Chinese manufacturing, from components to production capacity. It traces how China’s technical capability and scale have shaped the economics of the industry and enabled efficiency and innovation for Swiss brands. The discussion challenges the idea that “Swiss Made” is purely local craft, and instead frames it as a global supply chain reality. It also raises questions about authenticity, identity, and what luxury means when key inputs are international.
Fratello Talks: How To Get The Most Out Of Collecting Watches
This discussion focuses on making watch collecting more rewarding by approaching it as a long-term hobby rather than a short-term flip or pure investment. It touches on how to choose pieces with intention, how market trends can influence decisions, and how to avoid losing sight of why collecting is fun. A central theme is learning the craftsmanship and history behind watches so each purchase has context and meaning. It also highlights the community side of collecting, including the value of talking with other enthusiasts and sharing perspectives.
I Bought a Rolex on the Grey Market. Here’s What Happened
This video walks through the experience of buying a Rolex through the grey market, driven by how difficult it can be to obtain certain models through authorized dealers. It covers the process of finding a seller, negotiating, and the excitement of finally landing the watch outside the normal retail channel. At the same time, it emphasizes the risks, including authenticity concerns, warranty limitations, and the possibility of scams. The overall takeaway is a cautionary framework for anyone considering a similar route, with an emphasis on research and careful verification.
I Found Rolex’s SECRET Strategy
This video examines how Rolex maintains exclusivity and demand by tightly managing the relationship between supply, distribution, and brand storytelling. It frames craftsmanship and consistent quality as the foundation, but suggests that marketing discipline and limited availability amplify desirability. The analysis highlights how heritage and narrative reinforce Rolex’s status as a symbol of success, keeping the brand aspirational across generations. It ultimately presents Rolex as a case study in sustaining loyalty while continuously attracting new buyers.
NEW Yema Wristmaster Small Seconds Watch Review - 24Hours At A Time
This review spotlights the Yema Wristmaster Small Seconds, focusing on what the small seconds display adds to the overall character and feel of the watch. It emphasizes the combination of traditional design cues with modern execution, aiming to make the watch appealing to both collectors and everyday wearers. The video also discusses the craftsmanship behind the model, positioning it as more than a surface-level style exercise. Viewers can expect commentary on performance and durability to help decide whether it belongs on a shortlist.
ON TIME | Are Most Watch Collectors Basic?! - ᴢᴇʀᴏ ᴛᴏ ꜱɪxᴛʏ
This episode questions whether watch collecting has become overly centered on mainstream tastes and trend-following, potentially crowding out more unusual brands and designs. It presents the idea that “basic” collecting is real, but argues that the community also contains plenty of enthusiasts who dig deeper into horology and personal meaning. The discussion balances individual taste against popular appeal, encouraging viewers to reflect on why they collect what they collect. The goal is less to judge and more to broaden how collectors think about originality, motivation, and enthusiasm.
These 6 New Watches Just Dropped!
This video is a rapid roundup of six newly released watches, aiming to highlight what is fresh in design, features, and tech right now. Rather than going deep on a single model, it’s structured to give a quick sense of what makes each release notable and why it matters in the current market. It is geared toward viewers who want to stay current without reading multiple separate launch articles. The overall theme is scanning the landscape for what is new and worth a closer look.
Tudor military watches: An untold history — from French Navy to snowflake hand | ft. James Dowling
This video explores Tudor’s military connections, with a particular focus on adoption and use by the French Navy and the functional needs that shaped the watches. It traces how practical constraints influenced design evolution, including the development of the recognizable snowflake hands. The talk emphasizes the importance of durability and legibility in military contexts, and how those requirements became part of Tudor’s identity. It also positions these watches as historically significant tool watches that later became enthusiast icons.
Ugly Watches That JUST Work - with Matteo of ANOMA | Drop #265
This conversation makes the case that some watches succeed precisely because they prioritize function over conventional beauty. Matteo discusses models that may look odd or unrefined, but earn respect through reliability, clarity, and purpose-driven design choices. The video challenges the idea that “good design” always means traditionally attractive, and suggests usefulness can be its own form of appeal. It invites viewers to rethink what value means in a watch, especially when stripped of status signals and trend-chasing aesthetics.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on getbezel.com
[Thursday’s auction watch, the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar White Gold / Gray (5146G-010) - was bid to $22,499 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2025 Rolex Land-Dweller 36 Everose Gold / Fluted / White Honeycomb Motif / Arabic / Flat Jubilee (127235-0001)
Auction Report: The New Everose “Land-Dweller” Flex: Rolex’s 36mm Honeycomb With Arabic Numerals (Ref. 127235-0001)
Rolex didn’t simply roll out another dial variation in 2025—it launched an entirely new collection. The Land-Dweller is its contemporary integrated-bracelet statement, and in 18 kt Everose gold it lands squarely in the “quiet luxury with muscle” category: precious metal heft, a fluted bezel that catches every angle of light, and a Flat Jubilee bracelet that reads as one continuous architectural line. Rolex has framed the Land-Dweller as a forward-looking platform, pairing fresh aesthetics with meaningful mechanical evolution.
This example is the Land-Dweller 36, reference 127235-0001, featuring the intense white honeycomb-motif dial with applied Arabic numerals. The honeycomb texture gives the otherwise monochromatic dial a technical, almost industrial edge, contrasting beautifully against the warmth of Everose. At 36mm, it sits in that increasingly desirable sweet spot—classic proportions, but unmistakably modern in execution. The fluted bezel keeps it tethered to Rolex heritage, while the integrated case-and-bracelet design pushes it forward.
The real headline, however, is the calibre 7135 inside. Rolex moved this movement to a high-frequency 5 Hz (36,000 vph) architecture and introduced its Dynapulse escapement system, signaling one of the brand’s most significant technical updates in years. Add the Syloxi silicon hairspring and Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer regulation standard of -2/+2 seconds per day after casing, and this becomes more than just a new reference—it’s a statement of intent.
Condition-wise, this is exactly what serious buyers want in a first-year model: unworn, full set, complete with box, papers, product literature, and hangtags. The case, bezel, bracelet, dial, hands, and crystal are all listed as excellent, with only minimal handling signs possible. For a 2025 launch piece, completeness and freshness matter. Early-generation examples in pristine condition often become the benchmarks by which future resale is measured.
Retail for the Everose Land-Dweller 36 sits at approximately $47,000 before tax. On the secondary market, asking prices have typically exceeded MSRP, often landing in the high-$50,000 to low-$60,000 range for unworn full-set pieces, depending on platform and timing. As with most newly launched Rolex collections, early scarcity and precious metal positioning have supported a premium over retail.
This particular auction concludes on Friday, February 20, 2026 at 12:15 PM EST, which creates an interesting dynamic. Midday closings can sometimes temper last-second bidding frenzy compared to evening endings, but for a model this fresh—and in Everose with the honeycomb dial—the right bidders only need a few minutes to push things north.
Bottom line: this 127235-0001 represents Rolex’s newest design language in its warmest alloy, powered by its most technically ambitious modern movement. Whether it trades modestly above retail or pushes into a stronger premium will depend entirely on how badly someone wants to secure an unworn, first-year Everose Land-Dweller before the market fully settles.
Current bid: $46,500