BuyingTime Daily - February 18, 2026
Rolex tightens its grip, the market ticks up 0.8%, Fire Horse fever spreads, and a neo-vintage VC “Iceberg” heads to auction.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Buying Time for February 18, 2026 feels like a market-in-motion kind of day—quietly constructive on the surface, but with tectonic plates still shifting underneath.
The latest WatchCharts data shows the secondary market inching up 0.8% in January, led once again by Rolex, with strength spreading across roughly two-thirds of tracked brands. Standout collections from Omega and Tudor helped carry the index, while softer lines like Audemars Piguet’s CODE 11.59 and Hublot’s Big Bang reminded us that not every halo glows equally bright. The broader message? Cautious optimism. More brands rising than falling suggests the post-peak hangover may finally be wearing off—though the gains remain selective.
That theme of concentration sharpened in the “Top 10 Largest Watch Brands” report, which argues that Rolex now commands roughly 32% of the retail market with sales north of CHF 10 billion. The top ten brands reportedly account for nearly 70% of premium exports, leaving the mid-tier squeezed. Privately held names like Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Richard Mille are portrayed as agile and thriving, while conglomerate portfolios under groups like LVMH and Swatch Group appear to be navigating choppier waters—though Cartier and Vacheron Constantin stand out as exceptions. If the center feels unstable, it’s because gravity keeps pulling toward the very top.
On the anti-counterfeiting front, Haelixa’s DNA-based authentication service could be one of the more practical innovations we’ve seen in a while. Invisible, permanent markers embedded into materials and verified with a simple swab and 30-minute qPCR test? That’s less sci-fi, more supply-chain sanity. If widely adopted, it could become a meaningful deterrent in a resale ecosystem that continues to expand.
In sports partnerships, Gerald Charles celebrated a double victory at the ABN AMRO Open, reinforcing the brand’s push to align with elite performance. And speaking of performance, the 2026 Formula 1 season once again doubles as a rolling watch showcase. Breitling on Aston Martin wrists, IWC with Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS, TAG Heuer at Red Bull, and ongoing Richard Mille visibility with McLaren and Ferrari prove that horology and horsepower remain tightly synced. Notably, Audi and Cadillac are still open slots in the paddock—brand opportunity alert.
The Year of the Fire Horse gallops through multiple features and editorials today, with interpretations ranging from high craft to modern boldness. Vacheron Constantin anchors the artisanal end with Métiers d’Art executions, while TAG Heuer, Hublot, Longines, Oris, Bvlgari, and Dior interpret the zodiac through sport-luxury, accessibility, and fashion-inflected lenses. On the haute side, Girard-Perregaux’s La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition leans deeply into engraved pink gold and Grand Feu enamel drama, reinforcing the maison’s historical Three Gold Bridges narrative.
New releases round out the spectrum. Horage introduced the Molokini GMT Diver, a compact 38mm 904L steel traveler with an in-house micro-rotor and serious spec sheet credibility. Orient Star marked its 75th anniversary with the M34 F8 Skeleton, pairing meteorite-style texture and a 70-hour reserve at a relatively approachable price point. Meanwhile, Orient’s refreshed Bambino lineup tightens the affordable dress-watch formula with a cleaner 38mm no-date option and Eastern Arabic numerals entering the mix for the first time.
In reviews, the revived Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton in rose gold showcases meticulous finishing in a slim, double-ellipse case, while Leica’s ZM 1 and ZM 2 continue to position camera minimalism as wrist-bound engineering philosophy. Panerai’s Luminor Venticinque PAM02025 celebrates 25 years of Paneristi loyalty with Brunito steel and tool-watch swagger, and De Rijke & Co.’s Capri proves rectangular watches don’t have to look like afterthoughts.
For comparisons, dive watches remain the democratic category of the moment, from Citizen and Seiko up through Tudor, Omega, and Rolex, with Ulysse Nardin pushing lighter and more technical territory. Utility still sells—heritage just sweetens the deal.
Video content leaned technical and opinionated. A watchmaker’s-eye view of Grand Seiko craftsmanship offered trade-level insight, while coverage of the new COSC “Excellence Chronometer” explained why certification standards are tightening. Debate swirled around Omega’s trajectory, and speculation about a potential Jaeger-LeCoultre leadership-led buyout added intrigue to corporate strategy conversations.
Events remain vibrant. The Horological Society of New York is bringing hands-on classes to Washington, D.C., Atlanta, and Chicago, reinforcing grassroots mechanical literacy. Across the Atlantic, London Watch Week returns June 2–6, aiming to build on last year’s proof-of-concept with citywide exhibitions and collector programming.
At auction, Tuesday’s Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 43mm stalled at $30,000 without meeting its $47,850 reserve. Meanwhile, today’s neo-vintage conversation piece—the 1994 Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Skeleton Chronograph “Iceberg” (ref. 47100/236J-3)—sits at $6,200 heading into a 4:50pm EST close. Fewer than 100 examples across configurations, Lemania-based caliber 1140SQ, integrated gold bracelet (albeit missing links): it’s one of those watches where scarcity and architecture could collide in the final minutes.
All told, today feels like a snapshot of consolidation, cautious recovery, and creativity running in parallel. The giants grow larger, the independents sharpen their identity, and collectors—perhaps a bit warier, but still passionate—keep scanning for the next compelling story on the dial.
-Michael Wolf
News Time
February 2026 Watch Market Update | WatchCharts
In January 2026, the WatchCharts Overall Market Index rose 0.8%, led by gains in Rolex and strength across roughly two-thirds of tracked luxury brands. The update highlights standout collection performance, including Omega’s Constellation and Tudor’s Black Bay, alongside weaker results for lines like Audemars Piguet’s CODE 11.59 and Hublot’s Big Bang. The broader takeaway is cautious optimism that the secondary market may be nearing a turning point, with more brands rising than falling.
Gerald Charles celebrates double victory at ABN AMRO Open
Gerald Charles marked a high-profile moment in Rotterdam as brand ambassadors Alex de Minaur and the team of Simone Bolelli and Andrea Vavassori captured the tournament’s singles and doubles titles. The piece frames the wins as a reflection of the competitive focus and excellence the brand associates with its watchmaking. It also reinforces the company’s strategy of aligning with elite sport through visible ambassador partnerships. Gerald Charles publicly congratulated the players and signaled enthusiasm for continuing the relationship.
Haelixa’s DNA Technology Is Fighting Luxury Watch Fakes
Haelixa launched a DNA-based authenticity service designed to help luxury brands fight counterfeiting by embedding an invisible, permanent, unique DNA marker into materials during production. The marker is intended to survive the full product lifecycle, including resale and repairs, while remaining non-removable and non-copyable. Authentication is performed with a simple swab and a qPCR test that returns results in about 30 minutes, without specialized training. The service is positioned as a practical way to strengthen brand protection without disrupting manufacturing workflows or product quality.
The Top 10 Largest Watch Brands in 2025—Rolex Reigns Supreme as the Industry Consolidates Around the Few
The report argues that Rolex continues to dominate the watch industry, with estimated sales above CHF 10 billion and about a 32% retail market share in 2025. It describes accelerating consolidation, where the top ten brands account for nearly 70% of premium export volumes, and suggests Rolex has used controlled production to reinforce scarcity and pricing power. At the same time, the mid-to-high segment (roughly CHF 3,000 to CHF 20,000) is portrayed as shrinking, pressuring traditional brands. The piece concludes that the market is increasingly shaped by investment-driven collecting and widening gaps between the biggest players and everyone else.
Feature Time
F1 2026: Every Drivers’ Watch & Team Partnership
The 2026 Formula 1 season pairs grid shakeups and new regulations with an expanding set of watch partnerships that act as visible extensions of team and driver identity. Aston Martin’s link-up with Breitling is highlighted via the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43, while Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS continues with IWC, including a Pilot’s Watch 41 Chronograph seen on George Russell. Red Bull stays with TAG Heuer, with Max Verstappen wearing a higher-end Carrera Chronograph and rookie Isack Hadjar in a Formula 1 Chronograph. The roundup also notes ongoing Richard Mille partnerships with McLaren and Ferrari, plus teams like Audi and Cadillac that have not yet formalized a watch partner.
Inside Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Collectibles Capsule: How the Brand Is Redefining Vintage Watch Curation
This piece explains why “Heritage Director” has become a more central role at major watch brands as the vintage and pre-owned market keeps accelerating. At Jaeger-LeCoultre, Matthieu Sauret’s shift into the heritage role is framed as a catalyst for The Collectibles program, which curates small, theme-based capsules of significant vintage models. The latest capsule focuses on early Reverso history, featuring eight standout examples from 1931 to 1937, including rare dial variations and a two-tone edition. The article positions the program as both preservation and product strategy, using documented history to shape future storytelling and releases.
The Internet’s Favorite Affordable Dress Watch Just Got a Big Update
Orient refreshes the Bambino lineup with updates that keep the watch accessible while tightening the design and improving everyday usability. A key addition is a 38mm automatic no-date model designed around a cleaner, more symmetrical dial with Roman numerals and baton markers, powered by the in-house Calibre F6524 with hacking seconds and a 40-hour power reserve. The broader update also expands dial colors, including a limited-edition grey, and continues the 40.5mm Bambino Date range with new gradient looks. Notably, Orient adds Eastern Arabic numerals for the first time, plus quick-release straps for easier customization, while keeping prices in the same affordable band.
Time in Full Gallop: Year of the Fire Horse 2026 Watches As Seen Through 5 Horological Visions
Using the 2026 Year of the Fire Horse as a lens, the article groups watch releases into five “visions” that range from high craft and mechanical prestige to sports-luxury, accessible collector options, and fashion-forward statements. Across the selections, the horse motif is treated as a symbol of energy and independence, interpreted through different design languages and levels of complexity. Vacheron Constantin anchors the high-art end, while TAG Heuer and Hublot deliver bolder, modern takes on the theme. The piece also points to brands like Longines and Oris making zodiac-driven designs more approachable, before ending with luxury expressions from Bvlgari and Dior that blend horology and fashion.
Editorial Time
When Fire Meets Horse—The Best Watches for the Rarest Year in the Chinese Zodiac
The Year of the Fire Horse in 2026 is framed as a once-every-60-years zodiac moment associated with vitality, courage, elegance, and energy. The piece spotlights luxury watchmakers releasing special editions that interpret the Fire Horse theme through artisanal craft, including Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art “Year of the Horse” with a sculptural gold horse on an enamel dial and Arnold & Son’s Perpetual Moon featuring a red gold stallion against aventurine. It also highlights more elaborate creations like Girard-Perregaux’s La Esmeralda Tourbillon and Louis Moinet’s Tourbillon Puzzle Fire Horse for collectors drawn to rarity and symbolism. For a more attainable option, Panerai’s Radiomir “Chinafornia” is noted for blending Chinese numerals with a modern design, alongside horse-adjacent artistic pieces from Hermès.
Opinion Time
CORDER’S COLUMN: The Centre Cannot Hold
The Swiss watch industry is shifting fast, with Rolex strengthening its lead by growing share in the CHF 3,000+ segment even while producing fewer watches. The piece argues that privately owned brands like Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Richard Mille are thriving by adapting more effectively than large public groups. In contrast, conglomerates such as LVMH and Swatch Group are portrayed as losing momentum, with several marquee brands facing softer sales and heavier discounting in the secondary market. Cartier and Vacheron Constantin are positioned as notable exceptions, but the overall warning is that many legacy brands risk slipping further without stronger product energy and marketing engagement.
Event Time
Happenings: The Horological Society Of New York To Hold Classes In Washington, D.C., Atlanta, and Chicago
The Horological Society of New York is taking its hands-on watch education on the road with weekend classes in Washington, D.C., Atlanta, and Chicago. Each stop offers half-day sessions led by professional watchmakers, where participants learn how mechanical movements work by handling and studying the components directly. The classes condense material typically taught over multiple evening sessions in New York into an immersive weekend format. Enrollment is open now, with hosting partners including Tiny Jewel Box, the Atlanta Watch Society, and Oak & Oscar.
London Watch Week Announces Return For Second Year
London Watch Week will return June 2 to June 6, 2026 for its second year, aiming to bring brands, independents, retailers, collectors, and enthusiasts together across multiple London venues. Organizers are positioning it as a citywide program with exhibitions, panels, masterclasses, and product launches, with the full schedule and participating brands to be announced. The article points to last year’s inaugural event as proof of concept, including collaborations with auction houses and brand-hosted evenings. A particular highlight from the first edition was a vintage showcase featuring rare pre-owned pieces curated by respected specialists.
The Latest Time
Girard-Perregaux
Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition—Celebrating the Year of the Horse
Girard-Perregaux marks the Year of the Horse with a La Esmeralda Tourbillon limited edition that leans heavily into the maison’s 19th-century heritage and handcraft. The watch comes in a 43 mm pink gold case with extensive engraving inspired by the historic 1889 La Esmeralda pocket watch and its Three Gold Bridges architecture. A bold Grand Feu red enamel dial, made with layered guilloché techniques, underscores the celebratory theme, while the GP09600 movement includes a discreet white-gold micro-rotor and references the brand’s early tourbillon innovations. The result is positioned as both a functional timepiece and a narrative art object in the La Esmeralda lineage.
Horage
The New Horage Molokini GMT Diver Collection
Horage introduces the Molokini GMT Diver, a compact 38 mm dive watch in 904L steel built around the brand’s in-house K2 micro-rotor calibre with a 72-hour power reserve. Beyond the core dive spec, it adds true traveller GMT functionality, a vertical big date at 6 o’clock, and small indicators for power reserve plus day and night. It is offered in three dial colors and arrives with a steel bracelet and an extra fabric strap for flexibility. Pricing is listed at CHF 6,490 (about $8,417) with a pre-order price of CHF 5,990 (about $7,768).
Orient Star
Orient Star Marks 75 Years with the M34 F8 Skeleton
Orient Star celebrates its 75th anniversary with a limited-edition M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding that combines a manually wound skeletonized movement with a distinctive laser-engraved meteorite-style pattern. The watch is presented in a blackened steel case and bracelet, and it emphasizes technical upgrades like a silicon escape wheel alongside detailed finishing. It also delivers a 70-hour power reserve in a wearable 39 mm size, with accents like diamond-cut hands and a power reserve indicator. The price is listed at $3,250, with production limited to 430 pieces.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Daniel Roth
Hands On: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton Rose Gold
The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton in rose gold signals a fresh direction for the revived brand, leaning into a more openworked, execution-first design rather than repeating earlier models. It pairs a refined double-ellipse case with an impressively slim profile at 6.9 mm, keeping the watch elegant despite the visual complexity of the skeletonized display. The movement is crafted in 18k rose gold and emphasizes meticulous finishing and detail, reinforcing the piece’s high-end intent. With manual winding and a 65-hour power reserve, it blends modern wearability with traditional watchmaking values.
Leica
The Leica ZM 1 and ZM 2, How They Came to Be and What They Are
Leica’s ZM 1 and ZM 2 are presented as a natural extension of the company’s legacy in precision engineering, with roots traced back to Ernst Leitz I’s early watchmaking training. The watches focus on restrained, highly legible dial design and robust steel cases that subtly echo Leica camera cues. Their movements were developed with horologist Reinhard Meis, emphasizing purposeful features and careful construction rather than novelty for its own sake. The ZM 2 adds practical travel functionality with a second time zone, while both models aim at collectors who value Leica’s aesthetic and mechanical credibility.
Panerai
Panerai Luminor Venticinque PAM02025
This limited-edition Luminor Venticinque celebrates 25 years of the Paneristi community with a brushed black Brunito steel case and a matte blue fumé sandwich dial designed for depth and clarity. It uses the manual-wind Calibre P.6000 with a 72-hour power reserve and delivers serious tool-watch credibility with 300 meters of water resistance. The review emphasizes how the crown-guard system and overall ergonomics make the bold 44 mm case more comfortable as an everyday wear option than many expect. Strap options, including a calf leather strap and an alternate blue rubber strap, help it bridge sporty and casual-luxury use.
Rijke & Co.
The Limited-Edition De Rijke & Co. Capri Watch Brings Space-Age Smoothness To The Classic Rectangular Form
The Capri rethinks the rectangular dress watch with a wraparound, mid-century-futurist silhouette that visually minimizes the case’s midsection and highlights the sculpted sapphire crystal. Its minimalist black aventurine dial drops indices entirely, letting the shimmering surface act as the main design statement. Inside is a hand-wound La Joux-Perret D100 with a 50-hour power reserve, keeping the mechanical story clean and traditional. The review frames it as a distinctive, modern entrant in the rectangular dress category, produced in a small run across dial variations.
Comparing Time
Best dive watches
This comparison rounds up dive watches across a wide range of budgets, emphasizing why the category remains popular for both real-world utility and everyday wear. It highlights accessible, high-function picks like Citizen’s Promaster Diver Eco-Drive and the Seiko SKX’s enduring appeal, alongside heritage-driven options such as the Doxa SUB 300T. On the luxury side, it calls out heavyweights including the Tudor Black Bay 58, Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, and Rolex Submariner for their mix of performance and brand equity. The list also nods to newer directions like lightweight construction and sustainability with models such as the Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR].
Watching Time - Videos
Grand Seiko review – not by a YouTuber, but by an actual watchmaker
This video approaches Grand Seiko from a watchmaker’s perspective, focusing on craftsmanship and the small technical details that are easy to miss in a typical enthusiast review. It emphasizes precision, build quality, and the brand’s manufacturing standards as the core reasons Grand Seiko stands out in the luxury space. Alongside the mechanics, it also discusses how the design choices support both legibility and everyday usability. The goal is to give a deeper, more trade-informed view of what makes the watch compelling.
Major Update in Swiss Watchmaking | Everything to Know About the NEW COSC Excellence Chronometer
This video breaks down what’s changing with the new COSC “Excellence Chronometer” and why it matters for modern Swiss watchmaking. It explains the standards and precision expectations behind COSC certification, positioning the new designation as a notable tightening of what brands must prove. It also places the update in context, showing how manufacturers are trying to preserve traditional credibility while meeting modern consumer expectations. Overall, it is presented as a practical explainer for enthusiasts who want to understand the industry significance, not just the headline.
Omega Is In BIG Trouble - YouTube - Andrew Morgan Watches | The Talking Hands
This video argues that Omega is facing meaningful pressure that could affect its standing in the luxury watch market if left unaddressed. It frames the situation around shifting brand perception and the competitive environment, suggesting that the challenges are both strategic and market-driven. The discussion broadens beyond a single product line to consider what the brand’s next moves may need to be. It is meant to spark debate among enthusiasts about Omega’s trajectory and positioning.
Report: Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Seeks to Buy the Watch Brand from Richemont – Openwork Episode 68
This episode covers a report that Jaeger-LeCoultre’s CEO is exploring an acquisition that would take the brand out of Richemont’s ownership. It frames the potential buyout as part of a broader luxury-industry trend toward tighter control of brand identity, operations, and long-term strategy. The video also considers what this could mean for product direction and competitive positioning in high-end watchmaking. It is presented as a developing story with significant implications, depending on how negotiations unfold.
Seiko SSB477, SSB479 & SSB481: Vintage chronograph style for under $500
This video highlights three Seiko chronographs positioned as an affordable way to get a vintage-inspired look without sacrificing everyday practicality. It focuses on design cues that give these watches their retro appeal, paired with chronograph functionality suited to regular wear. The reliable quartz movements are emphasized as a value choice for accurate, low-maintenance ownership. Overall, the models are framed as strong sub-$500 options for anyone wanting classic styling with modern convenience.
These Affordable Watches Should NOT Be This Cheap!
This video is a value-focused roundup of budget watches that the creator believes offer more quality and design than their prices suggest. It positions the selections as “hidden gems” that borrow cues and features often associated with more expensive timepieces. The emphasis is on helping viewers spot strong buys without trading away aesthetics or functionality. The overall message is that smart picks in the lower price tiers can meaningfully elevate a collection.
This Watch Is All Style, No Logic - And I LOVE It!
This video spotlights a watch chosen primarily for design impact rather than strict practicality. It frames the piece as a statement accessory, with bold styling meant to be noticed and talked about. The commentary leans into the idea that emotional appeal and individuality can be as important as traditional “spec sheet” logic. It ultimately celebrates the watch as a fun, expressive object that prioritizes personality over convention.
Talking Time - Podcasts
Fratello On Air: Taking Our Time Machine Back To 2016
In this episode, the hosts look back at 2016 as a pivotal year in watches and culture, when social media was still early and Baselworld remained a major stage for brands. They revisit standout moments and personal memories from that period, including travel anecdotes and what they were wearing at the time. The conversation also highlights notable 2016 watch releases and market headlines, including record-setting auction results and the era’s bigger, bolder design trends. The episode closes by inviting listeners to share their own 2016 watch memories, reinforcing the community aspect of the hobby.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com
[Tuesday’s auction watch on grailzee.com, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 43MM Black Dial Rubber Strap (26420RO.OO.A002CA.01) - was bid to $30,000 but did not meet its reserve of $47,850. - make an offer]
1994 Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Skeleton Chronograph 38 Yellow Gold / Skeletonized / Bracelet (47100/236J-3)
Auction Report: The “Iceberg” You Can Wear: A 1994 Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Skeleton Chronograph (Ref. 47100/236J-3)
Up for grabs is a seriously neo-vintage piece of Vacheron Constantin bravado: the Patrimony Skeleton Chronograph in 18k yellow gold with the integrated braided gold bracelet, reference 47100/236J-3, dated 1994, and offered with box and papers. This is one of those watches that doesn’t just “show the movement”—it practically puts the entire chronograph thesis on display, with an openworked dial that leans angular and architectural rather than the usual floral skeleton treatment. Collectors commonly nickname this family the “Iceberg,” because the cutouts and geometry look like fractured ice more than romantic scrollwork.
The bones of the watch are the real story. Inside is caliber 1140SQ, a fully skeletonized, hand-wound, column-wheel chronograph built on the Nouvelle/Lemania 2310 ébauche—one of the most respected chronograph architectures of the 20th century, also famously used (in various forms) by other top-tier maisons. The integrated-bracelet versions are especially compelling because they turn what could be a delicate showpiece into something that feels like a jewelry-object you can actually live with—at least as much as you ever “live with” a yellow-gold skeleton chronograph.
Historically, ref. 47100 matters because it sits in that early-1990s window when Vacheron Constantin was proving it could go toe-to-toe in traditional high watchmaking while still experimenting with design language. The ref. 47100 launched around 1991 (alongside the closely related 47102), and production is widely described as very limited—often cited as fewer than 100 examples total across metals and configurations (yellow gold/platinum; strap/bracelet). That scarcity, plus the movement finishing and the distinct “Iceberg” look, is why these tend to stop knowledgeable people mid-scroll.
On condition, the listing notes a watch that has been worn and may have been serviced and/or polished. The good news is the important visual elements present well: dial, hands, and crystal are described as excellent, which is what you want for a skeleton watch where the entire point is visual clarity. The case and bezel show hairline scratches throughout, consistent with careful wear on polished yellow gold. The bracelet shows minor signs of wear and is missing links, with sizing described as fitting up to a 7-inch wrist—a practical detail that absolutely matters on integrated precious-metal bracelets, because sourcing correct links can be slow and expensive. (The presence of box and papers helps, both for collector confidence and long-term liquidity.)
Value is always the tricky part with watches like this because the market is thin and pricing can swing based on bracelet completeness, recent service documentation, and how sharp the skeletonization and case lines remain after any polishing. As a reality check on the current landscape, at least one dealer listing for the same reference sits around $74,990, while another marketplace auction detail has shown a figure around $82,820 for a comparable configuration. Meanwhile, a specialist dealer example (yellow gold, though not necessarily bracelet-identical in every case) has been shown sold-out around $46,000, underscoring how much the specifics drive price—bracelet, completeness, condition, and who is selling it. In plain English: expect the “real” clearing range to be broad, and the buyer who has been hunting an “Iceberg” with bracelet and paperwork may be willing to pay up if this checks their boxes.
The auction ends at today at 4:50pm est (Wednesday, February 18, 2026). If you’re watching this one into the close, the two biggest bid variables are (1) whether the missing bracelet links deter the most detail-obsessed buyers and (2) whether multiple collectors decide, simultaneously, that “fewer than 100 made” plus Lemania-based skeleton chrono is exactly the kind of problem they want. Either way, this is not a generic vintage gold chronograph—it’s a high-finishing, low-production statement piece from a period that collectors have been steadily re-rating upward.
Current bid: $6,200