BuyingTime Daily - February 17, 2026
Rolex reigns, resale concentrates, microbrands flex, and pink-gold AP heads to auction. Today’s Watch Universe tracks power, polish, and pressure.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Buying Time’s Watch Universe for February 17, 2026 reads like a study in concentration, conviction, and a little bit of collector soul-searching. The secondary market story makes one thing abundantly clear: Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet continue to hoard the spotlight, accounting for more than half of resale transactions and reinforcing the idea that in watches, gravity pulls toward the crown. Certified pre-owned programs are quietly reshaping the battlefield, tightening brand control while reinforcing trust. Add in fresh data showing Rolex still towering over the industry with more than CHF 10 billion in sales, and you get a market that may be volatile at the edges but remains remarkably stable at the very top.
Retail signals are slightly more encouraging, with UK footfall declines easing and retail parks actually ticking upward. It’s not champagne-popping territory yet, but it does suggest the broader luxury environment may be stabilizing, even as exports above CHF 3,000 wobble and ultra-high-end watches above CHF 20,000 keep flexing. Meanwhile, vintage collectors have something to circle on the calendar: a rare “Paul Newman” Daytona heading to auction with a six-figure estimate, reinforcing that provenance and originality still move markets faster than hype cycles ever could.
On the feature front, independence continues to shine. Annelinde Dunselman’s Black Tulip shows how a former Jaeger-LeCoultre collaborator can pivot into highly personal, small-batch watchmaking with a 100-hour manual movement and real finishing chops. Susan Galvin’s journey from working with TAG Heuer and Omega to launching her own brand underscores the growing visibility of women in modern watchmaking. And if you’ve ever debated whether to pour your budget into one grail or spread it across a diverse lineup, today’s “quantity over quality” argument makes a compelling case for capping spend and letting variety do the heavy lifting.
New releases were plentiful and refreshingly diverse. Seiko made its once-hard-to-get JDM GMT widely available, giving collectors a $500 mechanical traveler without the import gymnastics. Beda’a added diamonds to its Angles Mecaline, pairing sparkle with a hand-wound ETA 7001. G-Shock teamed with Team Land Cruiser Toyota for a Dakar-inspired Mudmaster built like it expects to see actual dirt. Louis Moinet revived the historic Valjoux 88 in its Speed of Sound trilogy, blending heritage chronograph DNA with spectacle materials. Orient introduced its first no-date Bambino while refreshing date models, and Orient Star marked 75 years with a meteorite-dial limited edition. Sartory Billard delivered a symbolic Fire Horse edition just in time for Chinese New Year.
Reviews leaned into personality. Chopard showcased serious handcraft with straw marquetry in the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25. Gagà Laboratorio doubled down on flamboyant Italian flair, while Le Forban offered vintage French dive vibes with an unusual rubber “Dive Bund.” Momentum delivered affordable Hollywood-adjacent dive nostalgia, Venezianico proved artisanal guilloché still moves pre-orders at €4,500, and Xeric leaned into playful retrograde mechanics for collectors who like their time displays slightly sideways.
Comparisons highlighted how microbrands continue to punch above their weight in originality and specs, reinforcing that the middle of the market is far more interesting than the resale charts might suggest. And in cultural reflection, a rare wristwatch tied to the Italian-American Civil Rights League reminded us that sometimes a watch is less about horology and more about history.
On the video side, “The New Watch Manufacturer That’s Destroying The Swiss” explores how modern production and social media are challenging traditional prestige hierarchies. Podcast listeners can dig into Montblanc’s Minerva heritage on Scottish Watches or hear Audemars Piguet outline its future beyond the Royal Oak on SJX.
At auction, the Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin “Unfrogettable Green” failed to meet reserve at $4,200, but offers are still on the table. Meanwhile, tonight’s spotlight remains on the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 26420RO—43mm of pink gold and black ceramic bravado currently sitting at $20,000 as it heads toward a 7:00 PM close. Whether it finishes in rational territory or emotional territory will tell us as much about market psychology as any export chart.
In short, the market’s biggest names still dominate the balance sheet, but the creative energy is increasingly coming from the edges. And that tension is what keeps this universe interesting.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
Winners Take All: How a Handful of Brands Dominate the Secondary Market
The secondary market for luxury watches is growing, but the gains are heavily concentrated among a small group, led by Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet, which together account for more than half of transactions. The article explains that value retention is sharply uneven, with a few brands showing strong performance while others lag or decline, illustrating how competitive and volatile resale dynamics can be. It also points to certified pre-owned programs as a major shaping force, aiming to improve trust, verification, and brand control in the pre-owned channel. The concentration of value in a handful of models raises questions about long-term sustainability, while leaving room for shifts if tastes or market structure change.
Cautious Optimism For Retail As Footfall Decline Slows
UK retail footfall fell 0.6% year over year in January, a notable improvement from December’s 2.9% decline. High streets were still down, but retail parks posted a small increase, helping lift overall performance to the best level in five months. Retail leaders pointed to improving consumer confidence and promotion-driven spending as key supports, while stormy weather still disrupted shopping patterns. The takeaway is a fragile but potentially improving backdrop, with calls for government action to spur investment in retail spaces.
Rare Paul Newman Rolex Daytona could fetch £120,000 at upcoming Fellows auction
Fellows Auctioneers is offering a rare “Paul Newman” Rolex Daytona in its February 26 Watches Auction, with an estimate of roughly $109,000 to $164,000. The story traces the Daytona’s rise from its 1960s origins to its modern status as a collector icon, supercharged by the 2017 sale of Paul Newman’s own watch for $17.8 million. The auction also includes other notable vintage lots, including a Rolex GMT-Master “Pepsi,” a 1929 Rolex Prince, and a Heuer Monaco with documentation. The broader message is that provenance and originality continue to drive demand for historically meaningful vintage pieces.
The 10 Largest Watch Brands in 2025 - Rolex Still the Undisputed King
Despite a tougher environment of declining exports and a cautious outlook, Rolex remains the dominant force, with sales above CHF 10 billion, exceeding the combined sales of its next five competitors. The piece highlights a widening split in the market, where the strongest high-end brands sustain results while the broader luxury segment feels volume pressure. It notes a significant decline in exports for watches priced above CHF 3,000, even as ultra-luxury watches above CHF 20,000 expand. Rolex’s Certified Pre-Owned initiative is cited as one contributor to revenue strength, alongside deliberate production restraint that preserves scarcity.
How UK Watch Collectors Can Protect Collections From Inheritance Tax
UK watch collectors can face inheritance tax of up to 40%, which can force sales that break up carefully built collections if planning is not done in advance. The article outlines mechanisms like Conditional Exemption, which can defer tax when a collection is deemed nationally significant and is preserved in the UK with public access provisions. It also describes the Acceptance in Lieu route, where culturally important pieces can be transferred to the nation in place of tax. Beyond reducing tax pressure, these approaches can strengthen provenance and conservation through institutional partnerships and structured access.
Feature Time
One To Watch: Annelinde Dunselman And Her ‘Black Tulip’, A Dutch Debutante With A Difference
Annelinde Dunselman moved from social work into independent watchmaking and set up an atelier in Zwolle, drawing on experience with makers like Jaeger-LeCoultre and Grönefeld. Her debut piece, the Black Tulip, is built around understated elegance with a 38.5mm steel case and a multi-layer dial that mixes modern restraint with fine detail. The limited run of ten watches uses a manual-wind Calibre D202.5 with a 100-hour power reserve, underscoring her emphasis on meticulous finishing and a personal connection to each watch. The design also nods to Dutch cultural history through the black tulip reference, making the watch as much an artistic statement as a timekeeper.
Seiko Just Made Its Most In-Demand JDM GMT Way Easier to Buy
Seiko has expanded availability of the previously Japan-focused SSK059 by releasing it internationally, removing the import friction that helped fuel its demand. The watch pairs a compact, field-leaning 39.4mm profile with practical specs like 100m water resistance and the 4R34 GMT movement with a 41-hour power reserve. Its crisp white dial, applied numerals, and orange GMT hand aim for high legibility, while the overall look clearly echoes the Explorer II without chasing its price tier. The result is a widely accessible mechanical GMT positioned around the $500 mark, squarely targeting collectors who wanted the JDM favorite without the hassle.
Susan Galvin
Susan Galvin trained as a professional watchmaker, worked with major brands like TAG Heuer and Omega, and then launched Galvin Watches, beginning with the “Alku” collection funded via Kickstarter. Her work blends Finnish heritage and modern design, often using vivid color with classic forms to stand out from typical microbrand styling. A key differentiator is that she designs, assembles, and tests the watches herself, keeping hands-on quality control that is uncommon at this scale. The story also frames her career as an example of how women are building visible, lasting impact in a field that has historically been male-dominated.
The case for quantity over “quality”
This piece argues that, instead of concentrating spend into one luxury watch, collectors can build a broader, more interesting lineup by capping spend per watch and spreading the budget across categories. With a roughly $5,000-per-watch ceiling, it suggests adding variety through chronographs, GMTs, dive watches, and dress watches, often leaning on microbrands and independents for value. Specific recommendations are used to show how strong design and solid craftsmanship are available well below traditional luxury price points. The overall message encourages a personal, mix-and-match approach that prioritizes enjoyment and diversity over chasing a single “ultimate” purchase.
The Italian-American Civil Rights League: A Look Back at an Italian Legacy Through the Lens of a Wristwatch
The story looks at the Italian-American Civil Rights League, founded in 1970 to push back on negative portrayals of Italian-Americans, including a successful effort to change language in The Godfather script. Although the original organization faded after Joseph Colombo Sr. was shot, it was revived in 2023 with a focus on youth and community service. A rare IACRL wristwatch from the early 1970s becomes the lens for exploring this history, with surviving examples and documentation appearing scarce. The watch is presented less as an object of horological importance and more as a cultural artifact tied to a brief but consequential moment in community advocacy.
Editorial Time
Helvetus Straps: The Swiss Brand Redefining Luxury Watch Comfort
Helvetus positions watch straps as a core part of the luxury watch experience, designing model-specific straps that prioritize comfort and personalization rather than treating straps as simple accessories. Using high-quality rubber, the brand aims to let collectors shift a watch’s feel from formal to casual without compromising the watch’s overall character. Its LuxLine® approach introduces a two-tone aesthetic meant to match and reinforce a watch’s original design language. The straps are built for daily wear and exposure to the elements, backed by a lifetime warranty to emphasize durability and long-term comfort.
The Latest Time
Beda’a
Unveiling The Sparkling Beda’a Angles Mecaline Diamond Edition
Beda’a has introduced the Angles Mecaline Diamond Edition as the first diamond-set mechanical model in the Angles line, offered in Black and Warm Gray variants. The watch keeps the minimalist, marker-free dial approach with a sub-seconds register, but adds 1.1 carats of diamonds across the bezel and lugs and pairs the piece with alligator leather straps for a more overtly dressy feel. Inside is a hand-wound ETA 7001 with a 42-hour power reserve, balancing statement aesthetics with proven mechanics. Price is about $5,353 USD (before taxes).
G-Shock
G-SHOCK and Team Land Cruiser Toyota Pair Up for a Tough, Dakar Rally-Inspired Mudmaster
This Mudmaster GWG-B1000 is positioned as a Dakar Rally-inspired tool watch built around impact resistance and outdoor capability, with a carbon fiber-reinforced resin case and a black ion-plated look. The multi-colored, dashboard-like dial supports features geared to navigation and conditions, including GPS-related functions, altitude tracking, and weather monitoring, alongside app-based tools for routing and compass use. It is designed for visibility and longevity, with double-LED lighting and a rechargeable battery that can run up to 24 months in power-saving mode. Price is $970 USD.
Louis Moinet
Louis Moinet release three new Speed of Sound references
Louis Moinet has released three new limited-edition Speed of Sound references, each built around a modernized presentation of the historic Valjoux 88 and produced in extremely small numbers at three pieces per reference. The watches add contemporary touches like a reworked moonphase display and a dedicated scale for calculating distance via the speed of sound from events such as thunder. Materials and finishing lean into spectacle and craft, including grade 5 titanium, meteorite elements, and decorative techniques like engine-turning, plus engraved caseback details. The article does not list a price.
Orient
Orient Presents Its First No-Date Bambino and Fresh New Colours for the Date Models
Orient expands the Bambino line with its first no-date Bambino 38, emphasizing a more symmetrical, dress-forward dial in a 38.4mm steel case with a sapphire exhibition back. It introduces a new in-house automatic calibre (F6524) with a 40-hour power reserve, along with multiple dial colors including a limited-edition grey. Alongside the no-date version, Orient refreshes the classic date Bambino in a larger 40.5mm case with both traditional and gradient dial options, all aimed at keeping the collection affordable and easy to wear. Prices start at about $403 USD (EUR 340 converted) and run to about $439 USD for the gold-colored date model (EUR 370 converted).
Orient Star
Introducing: Orient Star M34 F8 Date Meteorite 75th Anniversary
Orient Star marks its 75th anniversary with the M34 F8 Date Meteorite Limited Edition, the brand’s first watch to use a meteorite dial, showcasing a naturally formed Widmanstätten pattern that makes each piece visually distinct. The design leans into a celestial theme while keeping practical elements like a power reserve indicator and date display, all within a 40mm steel case rated to 100 meters. Power comes from the in-house automatic calibre F8N64, running at 21,600 vph with a 60-hour reserve, and production is capped at 255 pieces. Price is about $3,856 USD (EUR 3,250 converted).
Sartory Billard
Sartory Billard SB04-E Year of the Fire Horse – Chinese New Year Edition
Sartory Billard’s SB04-E “Year of the Fire Horse” is presented as a Chinese New Year-themed limited edition with just 26 pieces, built to resonate as much through symbolism as through everyday utility. The focus is on the craft and the thematic design language tied to the Fire Horse motif, positioning it as a collector piece with cultural significance. The entry also connects the watch to a broader argument for building varied collections through microbrands and independents rather than concentrating spend in one mainstream luxury purchase. The article does not list a price.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Chopard
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 Straw Marquetry Edition
Chopard pairs serious mechanics with high craft in this L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 edition, offered in yellow or white gold. The dial is the centerpiece, using hand-laid rye straw marquetry in a honeycomb pattern that’s meant to highlight the “made by hand” side of the L.U.C identity. Time is displayed with a jumping hour at 6 o’clock for a more theatrical, less conventional readout. Inside is the hand-wound L.U.C 98.06-L with four stacked barrels that deliver an eight-day power reserve, finished to a high standard and housed in a 40mm case.
Gagà Laboratorio
Hands-On With The Extravagant Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Series
The Labormatic Series leans hard into bold Italian styling, using a sculpted 42mm case that wears with more comfort than its dramatic form suggests. Across the three variants, the time display stays unconventional, mixing traditional hands for minutes with either standard or scrolling digital hour indications depending on the model. Power comes from the La Joux-Perret G100, giving these watches a modern spec sheet with a 68-hour reserve, visible through a sapphire back. The review frames them as personality-first watches where the fun dial colors, rubber straps, and overall presence are the main draw.
Le Forban
The Le Forban Marseillaise With What Might Just Be A First – The ‘Dive Bund’
Le Forban’s Marseillaise is a compact, heritage-leaning diver in a 40.8mm brushed steel case with 250 meters of water resistance and the expected tool-watch features like a unidirectional bezel. The story’s hook is the unusual “Dive Bund” strap, a rubber Bund-style design that adds a distinctive vintage-military vibe, even if it is more style statement than practical dive solution. A sunburst dial in blue or black keeps the watch visually punchy while staying within classic dive-watch territory. The review emphasizes the combination of French dive-watch character and a price that stays under €1,000, plus the option to buy the strap separately.
Momentum
Momentum Sea Quartz 30 Review: An Affordable Dive Watch With Hollywood Roots
The Momentum Sea Quartz 30 is positioned as a modern, affordable diver with a nod to the Chronosport Sea Quartz 30 made famous on Tom Selleck’s wrist. It uses a 42mm stainless-steel case and a quartz movement to keep things simple, durable, and easy to live with, while still offering legit dive specs like 300 meters of water resistance. Design highlights include a matte black dial and paddle hands that prioritize legibility and a clean, purposeful look. Minor critiques include bezel grip and average lume, but overall it comes across as a strong value pick at $279.
Venezianico
Hands-On With The Impressive Venezianico Redentore Utopia II
Venezianico’s Redentore Utopia II continues the brand’s push upmarket, focusing on guilloché dials made by Atelier Renzetti and design cues tied directly to Venetian art and architecture. Two versions, Alpha and Beta, differ mainly in tone and texture, with finishes inspired by mosaics and the city’s darker structural palette. Both use a 38mm case and the proprietary V5001 caliber, presented as a step forward in finishing and performance with a 60-hour reserve. The write-up underscores how quickly the €4,500 pre-orders sold out, reinforcing the demand for this blend of artisanal dial work and modern execution.
Xeric
Xeric Timeline Retrograde Watch Review: Double The Retrograde, Double The Fun
The Xeric Timeline Retrograde Automatic stands out with a coaxial double-retrograde display inside a 38mm TV-shaped case, mixing vintage cues with a deliberately playful, mechanical presentation. The dial’s radial ridges, lume, and date window give it plenty of visual texture, though the review notes that quick time-reading can take an extra beat because of the minute scale layout. Power comes from a Miyota 9015 paired with Xeric’s X5.1 module, delivering a 42-hour reserve and the quirks that make the display work. At $1,199, it is framed as a relatively accessible way to add something genuinely different to a collection.
Comparing Time
The Best Microbrand Watches to Buy in February 2026
This piece compares a range of standout microbrand options available in February 2026, emphasizing how much originality and spec value smaller brands are delivering right now. It spotlights distinct design approaches, from the Héron Mirabel Firehorse with a thin agate stone dial and PVD gold case to the Sero Signature dress watch with multiple dial colors in a steel case. It also highlights more unconventional display concepts like the Mandetbrote Wandering Hour, plus architectural inspiration in the Lebond Attraction (Gaudí-influenced) and the crater-textured enamel dial of the Vitreum Lunar Exploder. Across the picks, the focus is on creativity, clear differentiation, and the practical specs that make these watches compelling alternatives to mainstream releases.
Watching Time - Videos
The New Watch Manufacturer That’s Destroying The Swiss
A new watch manufacturer is gaining attention by challenging traditional Swiss dominance with fresh design, aggressive pricing, and a marketing strategy built for a younger audience. The brand leans on modern production approaches and social media distribution to reach buyers who care more about style and accessibility than legacy luxury signaling. That shift in consumer preference is framed as a real competitive threat, pressuring established Swiss brands to evolve to stay relevant. The broader takeaway is that watch “prestige” is being renegotiated as newer players redefine value and desirability.
Talking Time - Podcasts
Scottish Watches Podcast #753 : We Unveil The Secrets of Watchmaking
This episode dives into Montblanc’s watchmaking through the lens of its Minerva heritage, focusing on what still sets the brand apart at the movement and finishing level. The conversation touches on the inverted Unveiled Secret chronograph and how the calibre is engineered and refined, alongside the role of traditional hand-finishing in Villeret. It also follows the collector path from more accessible models like the Geosphere into higher-complication Minerva pieces, highlighting why visible craftsmanship remains so compelling. Personal collector perspectives help frame how Montblanc has evolved while keeping the Minerva story central.
SJX Podcast: Audemars Piguet Thinks Beyond the Royal Oak
This episode breaks down several recent Audemars Piguet launches after an on-the-ground look at the brand’s Switzerland event. It covers new pieces ranging from the Neo Frame Jumping Hour and the 150 Heritage pocket watch to the updated Royal Oak Chronograph 38mm with a new in-house movement. The discussion also highlights AP’s latest open-worked perpetual calendar concept designed to fit both Code 11.59 and Royal Oak lines. A key theme is how AP is reorganizing internally, including the creation of a multi-disciplinary “Fab Lab” meant to accelerate experimentation and production innovation.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee.com
[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2025 Louis Erard X Konstantin Chaykin “Unfrogettable Green” L. E. 40MM Green Dial Leather Strap (85340AA01) - was bid to $4,200 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 43MM Black Dial Rubber Strap (26420RO.OO.A002CA.01)
Auction Report: Rose Gold, Black Ceramic, and Zero Apologies: The Royal Oak Offshore 26420RO
If you want a watch that whispers “discreet,” keep scrolling. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph ref. 26420RO.OO.A002CA.01 is the modern Offshore in its natural habitat: 43mm of 18-carat pink gold, topped with a black ceramic bezel, and built to look like it could survive both a yacht deck and a boardroom argument. The black “Méga Tapisserie” dial does the Offshore thing—big texture, big presence—while the rhodium-toned subdials keep it legible and the date at 3 o’clock keeps it practical enough to justify to yourself (and nobody else). It’s rated to 100 meters, because this watch is always ready for water… even if most of its owners are not.
The 26420 generation matters because it’s the Offshore after a thoughtful refresh: more ergonomic case work and, crucially, the quick-change interchangeable strap system. On this reference you get the black rubber strap with an AP pin buckle, and Audemars Piguet also pairs it with an additional black alligator strap—because sometimes you want your Offshore to look slightly less like it’s headed to a pit lane.
Under the hood, this line is powered by Audemars Piguet’s in-house Calibre 4401, a modern integrated chronograph with flyback capability and a 70-hour power reserve—exactly the kind of movement you want in a watch that’s basically the brand’s high-luxury action figure.
A little context, because the Offshore has always been about context. The Royal Oak Offshore debuted in 1993 as the original “Beast,” taking Gérald Genta’s Royal Oak language and turning the volume up until the dial text practically vibrated. Over time it became Audemars Piguet’s playground for materials, scale, and swagger—often simultaneously. This 26420-era Offshore is that same DNA, just executed with sharper engineering and less 1990s chaos.
Now, value. Retail/MSRP for this reference is commonly listed at $71,900 (pricing varies by market and timing, but that number is the anchor most dealers and trackers cite). On the secondary market, live listings for 26420RO.OO.A002CA.01 show a wide spread—roughly low-$50Ks on the aggressive end, with many examples clustered in the $60Ks–$70Ks, and some optimistic asks pushing into the $80Ks depending on year, condition, and who’s telling the story. Trackers that capture observed market prints have shown examples in the mid-$50Ks in prior periods, which is a useful reality check when someone tries to convince you “it’s basically trading at retail.”
Given your seller’s description—“very good condition,” and importantly, box and papers—this is the kind of Offshore that tends to attract serious bidders who want the full set and don’t want a project. The price that makes sense to chase depends on the auction’s energy, but in today’s market I’d generally expect bidding interest to get rational if it’s living in the mid-$50Ks to mid-$60Ks range, and to get progressively less rational as it approaches retail territory (unless the listing is exceptionally strong on provenance, recency, or completeness).
The auction ends at 7:00 PM (Tuesday, February 17, 2026), which means you’re heading into prime-time bidding—aka the window when someone decides this is the moment to “win” an Offshore rather than “buy” an Offshore. If you’re bidding, decide your ceiling before the last five minutes, because the Offshore has never been a collection built for restraint.
Current bid: $20,000