BuyingTime Daily - February 16, 2026
Gold melts, markets mature, new APs drop, and a frog prince hits auction. Your Feb. 16 watch briefing—data, drama, and serious horology in one read.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe for February 16, 2026 reads like a study in extremes: gold bars in one hand, frog princes in the other, and a steady hum of new steel, bronze, titanium, and platinum in between. Let’s start with the macro pulse. As gold prices soar, some buyers are literally melting down vintage gold watches because the scrap value exceeds what the intact watch might fetch on the secondary market. That’s not hyperbole—that’s arithmetic. The unintended consequence is a shrinking pool of original vintage pieces, which may age about as well as any unsaved dive watch left in saltwater. At the same time, the EveryWatch report paints 2025 as less about speculative spikes and more about structural maturity: dealer-led pre-owned sales, stronger liquidity, and the rise of programs like Rolex Certified Pre-Owned. Translation: fewer fairy tales, more spreadsheets.
On a more somber note, Abdulmagied Ahmed Seddiqi, a pillar of UAE luxury retail and a key architect of Dubai’s watch ecosystem, has passed away. Under his leadership, the Seddiqi business grew into a retail force representing over 100 luxury brands, helping transform Dubai into a global watch capital. The next generation now carries that platform forward, but his influence on the region’s watch culture is firmly cemented.
Feature coverage ranges from playful to deeply technical. The Hodinkee Valentine’s gift picks remind us that watch enthusiasm spills into clothing, tools, and daily rituals, not just reference numbers. Omega has prepared for Milan Cortina 2026 with new timing systems, including a virtual photofinish for bobsleigh and computer-vision-assisted judging in figure skating and ski jumping, while also rolling out Olympic-themed limited editions. Meanwhile, a deep dive into British military watches traces the arc from naval chronometers to trench watches to standardized WWII tool pieces, underscoring how legibility and durability became the blueprint for modern sports watches. Casio adds a lighter note with origami-inspired G-SHOCK models that mimic washi paper texture around the bezel, complete with crane motifs and folding-diagram graphics.
Practical ownership gets attention too, from advice on cleaning and servicing to a full explainer on the springs that make mechanical watches tick—mainsprings, hairsprings, and the army of smaller springs that quietly power complications. AnOrdain’s bespoke strap service leans into artisanal detail, offering custom leather builds tailored to wrist measurements and aesthetic preferences. Editorially, the size debate continues, arguing that while smaller watches are trending, function should still dictate form. In Opinion, the definition of horology is broadened to include everything from traditional mechanical craft to modern smartwatches, suggesting that participation is more about curiosity and engagement than what sits on your wrist.
New releases are plentiful. Audemars Piguet updates the Royal Oak Chronograph 38mm with the new calibre 6401, refining the dial layout and adding an instantaneous date while holding the steel model at $43,000. Brellum introduces a limited Duobox 39 in ice-blue mother-of-pearl, COSC-certified and capped at 46 pieces. MeisterSinger toughens up its single-hand ethos with the DLC-coated Archao collection. Nivada Grenchen expands the F77 MKII into 15 references, including titanium “Open Heart” variants. Orient Star delivers classic restraint with the M45 F7 Small Second, while Sopwith leans into aviation lore with a full-lume limited edition incorporating steel from a WWII Focke-Wulf cockpit. Timex continues its retro run with the Q Continental Chronograph, keeping things accessible at well under $300.
Hands-on reviews elevate the technical ceiling. Bell & Ross re-enters the Bronze Age with a 300m-rated BR-03 Diver limited to 999 pieces. Ferdinand Berthoud showcases the Chronomètre FB 1RES.4, complete with remontoir d’égalité and fusee-and-chain, at a cool $217,000. Leica translates its camera DNA into the ZM 2 with a tactile push-crown system. Louis Vuitton refines the Escale Worldtime into a 40mm platinum case with a 62-hour movement and hand-painted flags. If you prefer comparisons, there’s no shortage: Rolex Datejust alternatives, natural stone dial standouts, Tudor versus Christopher Ward, Tudor versus Monta, and tuxedo-dial charm making a comeback.
Video coverage today is particularly lively, from speculation about a potential Rolex “Coke” GMT revival to debates over whether OMEGA still delivers value, whether hype watches have lost their shine, and whether iconic mechanical watches are ceding cultural ground to digital-first devices. There’s also a titanium Timex being positioned as a microbrand disruptor, and a deep dive into Vacheron Constantin’s astronomical masterpieces for those who like their complications celestial.
On the vintage-hunting front, eBay Finds highlights full sets from Angelus and Longines, plus a rare Seiko and a gold Omega Constellation that remind us that condition and completeness still move the needle. At auction, Friday’s Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Calendar stalled at $12,300 without meeting reserve, while tonight’s Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin “Unfrogettable Green” (limited to 178 pieces) is sitting at $3,900 as the clock winds down toward its 9:14pm ET close. In a market where some watches are being melted for bullion and others are trading on personality and scarcity, it’s hard to imagine a better mascot than a titanium frog prince regulator.
Gold is being weighed, springs are being dissected, tool watches are being compared, and collectors are being reminded—again—that markets evolve, but fascination with time does not.
-Michael Wolf
News Time
Amid Soaring Gold Prices, Some Buyers Are Melting Down Vintage Watches
With gold prices hitting record highs, more buyers and dealers are treating certain vintage gold watches as raw material rather than collectibles. In some cases, the melt value now exceeds what the same watch might fetch on the secondary market, which is accelerating liquidation. This creates concern for collectors because it can permanently shrink the supply of intact vintage pieces. At the same time, demand for high-gold-content watches remains steady, even as refineries get backed up by the volume of trade-ins.
Everywatch Report
The EveryWatch report frames 2025 as a structural shift in the secondary watch market, where liquidity and turnover efficiency mattered more than pure price appreciation. Total secondary-market sales were sizable, with dealer-led pre-owned transactions taking a larger share and signaling more professionalized price discovery. Independent makers performed strongly, and programs like Rolex Certified Pre-Owned grew rapidly, reinforcing a market that rewards transactional depth. Overall, the picture is of a steadier, more metrics-driven resale ecosystem that appears resilient despite outside pressures.
Seddiqi co-founder Abdulmagied Ahmed Seddiqi passes away
Abdulmagied Ahmed Seddiqi, a key figure in UAE luxury retail and the Seddiqi family business, has died, prompting wide acknowledgment of his impact on the region’s watch industry. During his leadership, the company expanded from a small trading operation into a major retail group representing over 100 luxury brands. The broader Seddiqi Holding portfolio grew to include services and property interests, while the family helped cement Dubai’s role as a global watch hub. The next generation continues to run the business and related initiatives, carrying forward the platform he helped build.
Feature Time
Here Is What’s New In Timekeeping For The Winter Olympic Games 2026
Omega is rolling out new timing systems for Milan Cortina 2026 that aim to make finishes and judging more precise and easier to verify. A major highlight is a bobsleigh virtual photofinish that uses sensors and antennas to translate split-second differences into clear visual comparisons. The Games will also use computer vision in events like figure skating and ski jumping to capture movement data that supports more accurate scoring. Alongside the tech, Omega is marking the event with limited-edition Olympic watches and a large on-site timing operation.
How British Military Watches Changed History
The story traces British military watch evolution from early naval chronometers used for coordination and navigation through the transition from pocket watches to wrist-worn “trench” designs in World War I. As warfare demanded speed and practicality, watches became simpler, tougher, and easier to read, with luminous dials and robust cases. World War II accelerated standardization with specification-driven models, including widely issued and now-collectible references. The piece closes by showing how later tool watches and even quartz options carried that military legacy forward, keeping reliability and clarity as the core requirements.
origami G-SHOCK watches by casio let users feel washi paper texture around bezel
Casio’s origami-inspired G-SHOCK designs translate traditional Japanese craft into a tactile, modern watch aesthetic. The bezel and band are molded to mimic the fibrous grain of washi paper, and dotted-line graphics echo folding-diagram guides used in origami. Small details reinforce the theme, including an LED backlight that reveals a crane motif and a caseback mark tied to longevity and peace. Even the packaging mirrors the look and feel of washi, extending the concept beyond the watch itself.
Taking Care of Your Watches
The piece lays out practical habits that keep watches running well, starting with smart storage solutions like boxes, winders, and travel rolls that protect and organize a collection. It highlights how basic tools, such as a spring bar tool, make strap changes safer and easier, improving the day-to-day ownership experience. Cleaning is positioned as routine maintenance, especially for straps and areas that collect grime, with options ranging from microfiber wipes to deeper cleaning methods. Regular servicing is emphasized as the long-term safeguard, since fresh lubrication and inspections prevent wear that can lead to bigger mechanical problems.
The ABCs of Time: Everything About The Springs Inside a Mechanical Watch
This overview explains how springs power and regulate mechanical watches, focusing first on the mainspring as the energy source and the hairspring as the key to timekeeping stability. It connects those fundamentals to historical developments that made portable timepieces possible and to later solutions that tried to smooth out changing torque. Beyond the headline components, it details the many smaller springs that enable functions like date changes, crown setting, and shock protection. As complications stack up, the number of specialized springs grows dramatically, underscoring how much of watchmaking complexity is literally “spring-loaded.”
AnOrdain’s Bespoke Strap Service
AnOrdain has launched a bespoke strap service that lets customers design a handcrafted leather strap down to the leather choice, stitching color, and edge finishing. Customers receive a sample kit to confirm materials and colors, then submit wrist measurements to ensure a precise fit. Each strap is made start-to-finish by a single artisan, emphasizing consistency and individual craftsmanship. The turnaround is roughly a month to six weeks, and the price reflects the labor-intensive, custom nature of the work.
Editors’ Picks: We Pick Watch-Related Valentine’s Gifts For Our Colleagues
The Hodinkee team set a $1,000 budget and picked watch-adjacent Valentine’s gifts tailored to one another’s tastes and day-to-day needs. The choices range from practical gear to playful items, showing how watch culture overlaps with clothing, tools, and experiences. Each selection is framed around knowing the recipient well, and the reactions help underscore why each gift felt personal. The piece leans into the fun of the exercise while still spotlighting thoughtful, horology-minded shopping.
Editorial Time
Does (Watch) Size Really Matter?
The piece looks at the watch world’s swing toward smaller case sizes, linking it to broader cultural tastes and celebrity influence, and noting how this has boosted interest in vintage-inspired designs like Cartier’s Tank. It argues that the “smaller is better” moment can overlook why larger watches exist in the first place, including legibility and toughness for tool-watch use cases like diving and aviation. The takeaway is that sizing should match function when needed, and personal preference the rest of the time. In other words, the best choice is the one that feels right on the wrist, regardless of trends.
Opinion Time
What does it mean to participate in horology?
This piece argues that “horology” is not limited to mechanical watchmaking, but broadly includes the science and art of measuring time and building instruments that indicate it. Under that definition, smartwatches like the Apple Watch still qualify because they measure and display time, even if they are primarily used as multi-function tech devices. It also draws a line between simply collecting watches and actively engaging with horology, suggesting that curiosity and learning about timekeeping matter more than ownership alone. The conclusion is intentionally inclusive: participation depends on intent, leaving room for traditional craftspeople, designers, and modern technology alike.
The Latest Time
Audemars Piguet
Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm
Audemars Piguet updates the Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm with a new calibre 6401 that improves performance, adds an instantaneous date, and delivers a longer power reserve, while keeping the familiar Royal Oak look. The dial layout has been refined so the sub-dials and date feel less cramped, improving everyday readability. A sapphire caseback is now included, adding visual interest and also reducing the amount of gold required on precious-metal versions. The steel version is priced at $43,000.
Brellum
Brellum Duobox 39 Ice Blue Mother-of-Pearl Chronometer
Brellum adds an ice-blue mother-of-pearl version of its Duobox 39 chronograph, pairing a compact steel case with a luminous, high-contrast tricompax layout. Inside is the COSC-certified BR-110 movement with a 60-hour power reserve, aimed at daily wear without sacrificing spec credibility. The release is limited to 46 pieces and comes with both a steel bracelet and an extra white leather strap for versatility. Price is listed as CHF 3,190 (about $4,140 USD) including taxes, or CHF 2,950 (about $3,830 USD) for export.
MeisterSinger
The New and Modern MeisterSinger Archao Collection
MeisterSinger’s Archao collection brings a tougher, more contemporary feel to the brand’s single-hand formula, led by a 43mm case with a matte black DLC coating. The dial design stays focused on easy, intuitive reading, and adds bright lume elements designed to stand out clearly in low light. The watches run on the Sellita SW200 automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve, and the overall styling is finished with robust leather straps and strong color options. Retail is EUR 2,390 (about $2,870 USD).
Nivada Grenchen
Nivada Grenchen F77 MKII Collection—15 New References
Nivada Grenchen expands the F77 MKII line with 15 references, keeping the recognizable integrated-bracelet sports-watch shape while improving wearability with better lug curvature and a 38mm case. A standout addition is the “Open Heart” titanium line with fractured dials that reveal the movement, offered in several striking materials and colors. Across the collection, the SOPROD M100BV movement provides a 42-hour power reserve, and the range is positioned to feel ambitious while staying accessible. Prices are already in USD, ranging from $1,160 up to $1,990, depending on configuration.
Orient Star
The Elegant Orient Star M45 F7 Small Second
Orient Star’s M45 F7 Small Second leans into classic dress-watch restraint with a 39mm steel case, a clean symmetrical dial, and a power reserve indicator paired with a small seconds subdial. The collection offers multiple dial colors, plus a limited-edition grey variant, all under a dual-curved sapphire crystal and with an exhibition caseback. Power comes from the in-house calibre F7H44 with over 50 hours of reserve and stated daily accuracy figures. Pricing is EUR 950(about $1,140 USD) for standard models and EUR 1,050 (about $1,260 USD) for the limited edition.
Sopwith
Sopwith Watch Company Aero Marquis Focke-Wulf Fw 190 Arctic Sea Full Lume Edition
Sopwith’s Aero Marquis “Arctic Sea” is a 55-piece limited edition built around a strong aviation story, using steel salvaged from a WWII Focke-Wulf Fw 190 cockpit armor plate. The full-lume display is designed to transform from a crisp daytime look into a bright, highly legible night-time presentation, while also adding GMT functionality via the Sellita 2893-A2 movement. A bronze unidirectional bezel and 200m water resistance reinforce the watch’s rugged, tool-forward intent. Price is listed at $4,900.
Timex
Timex Continues Its Retro Run With the Q Continental Chronograph Watch | Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex adds chronograph functionality to the Q Timex Continental line while keeping the retro case shape and the dial’s concentric-circle styling. The new versions lean harder into 1970s sport-watch cues with sub-dials and a rotating bezel, but still aim to stay practical and easy to wear. Multiple configurations let buyers choose between leather straps and integrated bracelets, keeping the range flexible without drifting away from the core design language. Pricing is listed at $229 (leather strap) or $259 (bracelet).
Wearing Time - Reviews
Bell & Ross
The Latest Bell & Ross BR-03 Diver to Enter the Bronze Age
Bell & Ross brings back the BR-03 Diver in a bold black-and-bronze configuration, limited to 999 pieces, pairing the brand’s square case with a glossy black dial and a black ceramic ring for contrast. The CuSn8 marine-grade bronze case is built to resist corrosion and will develop a distinctive patina over time. It’s a serious dive watch built to ISO 6425 specs with 300m water resistance, strong lume, and an automatic BR-CAL.302-1 movement offering a 54-hour power reserve. The watch comes with both a black rubber strap and a synthetic fabric strap, and it’s priced at $5,500.
Ferdinand Berthoud
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB-1RES.4 Watch Hands-On: A Particularly High-End Way To Celebrate One’s Love Of Horology
This hands-on look highlights Ferdinand Berthoud’s Chronomètre FB 1RES.4 as a deeply technical, limited-production piece, with just 38 examples planned. The movement emphasizes precision through a remontoir d’égalité that enables a dead-beat seconds display, along with a fusee-and-chain system designed to deliver constant force. The dial stays purposefully restrained, focusing on time with a power reserve indicator while letting the mechanics do the talking. Housed in ceramic-coated titanium, it blends modern toughness with high-end craft, and it’s priced at $217,000.
Leica
The Leica ZM 2 (and M-11 D)
Leica’s ZM 2 is presented as a passive GMT that translates the brand’s precision-engineering identity into a thoughtfully designed watch, despite Leica being best known for cameras. The watch combines a matte black dial with multiple indicators, including a second time zone and power reserve, and it uses a distinctive push-crown setting system meant to feel more deliberate and tactile. The review positions the ZM 2 as an object for enthusiasts who value experience and craftsmanship as much as pure specifications. Price is listed at $14,425.
Louis Vuitton
Upclose with the new Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime
Louis Vuitton’s Escale Worldtime refresh refines the concept into a more compact 40mm platinum case while improving legibility and overall mechanical maturity. The dial remains the visual centerpiece, with hand-painted flags in dozens of colors that represent world time zones, paired with a jumping hour disc designed for quick, intuitive reading. Inside, the new calibre LFT VO 12.01 brings a 62-hour power reserve and upgraded finishing, reinforcing the watch’s high-complication credentials. The piece is priced at EUR 95,000 or $94,500.
Comparing Time
Bring a Loupe: We Throw It Back To The Classics With An Omega, A Universal, And An Off-Beat Chronograph In the Return of ‘Bring a Loupe’
This installment blends personal nostalgia with a look at several standout vintage and classic watches, framing them through the lens of collecting for joy rather than investment value. It highlights pieces like an 18k gold Omega Constellation for craftsmanship and beauty, and a Seaboard Yacht Chronograph for its offbeat charm and throwback appeal. The article also spotlights more purpose-built selections like a titanium Sinn EZM1 and a Universal Genève Compax, mixing specs and market context with collector emotion. Overall, it’s a reminder that the best watches often carry stories and character that go beyond price tags.
Five Tuxedo-Dial Watches To Bring That 20th-Century Charm Back
Tuxedo dials are returning as a design trend, using high-contrast black-and-white layouts to evoke vintage elegance while staying highly legible. The piece shows how the look now spans dress watches and tool watches, reflecting a wider appreciation for balanced, clarity-first design. It points to examples that range from classic heritage-inspired takes to more modern interpretations, each using contrast in a slightly different way. The broader theme is that tuxedo dials deliver both emotional nostalgia and practical readability.
Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Datejust Alternatives In 2026
This roundup offers five alternatives to the Rolex Datejust for readers who want a similar “everyday luxury” role but with different brand positioning, features, or pricing. The list spans mainstream luxury and value options, emphasizing reliability, versatility, and strong design fundamentals over logo prestige. Several picks are framed around modern movement quality and a wide range of sizes and dial choices, making them easier to fit to personal taste. The article closes by reinforcing that the Datejust formula is widely available in spirit, even when the exact watch is not.
Hard Rock Horology With 6 of Today’s Finest Natural Stone Dial Watches
Natural stone dials are positioned as more than a fad, with multiple brands leaning into the material for both uniqueness and artistry. The article highlights six watches that use stones like tiger’s eye, lapis lazuli, pietersite, and onyx, showing the wide range of textures and color effects possible. It also underscores how these dials are often paired with serious movements and limited production, turning material choice into a luxury signal. The result is a spectrum of options that spans from comparatively accessible to truly high-end statement pieces.
Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT Vs. Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Extreme GMT
This head-to-head comparison weighs a premium tool GMT from Tudor against a lower-priced but feature-rich Christopher Ward challenger. The Tudor is framed around brand authority, titanium build quality, and a Master Chronometer-certified movement, while the Christopher Ward emphasizes versatility, comfort, and value. Much of the decision comes down to whether the Tudor’s movement pedigree and prestige justify the price gap versus a more affordable, highly wearable alternative. The piece encourages readers to judge the tradeoffs based on how the watch will actually be used.
Tudor Black Bay GMT vs Monta Skyquest: Swiss Giant Against Microbrand
This comparison contrasts Tudor’s heritage-driven Black Bay GMT with Monta’s modern, microbrand approach in the Skyquest GMT. The Tudor is presented as a robust, vintage-inspired travel tool with a strong in-house movement and a substantial presence on the wrist. The Monta counters with a slimmer, lighter, more comfort-first design that prioritizes clarity and everyday wearability while still delivering high-quality finishing. The conclusion is that Tudor wins on tradition and authority, while Monta makes a compelling case for a more practical daily GMT experience.
Watching Time - Videos
2 New IWCs aren’t for “watch people”(but I like them a lot)
This video argues that IWC’s two new releases are aimed less at traditional watch enthusiasts and more at people drawn to design, lifestyle, and brand feel. Even with that positioning, the host finds a lot to like, especially in the styling and the way the watches present on the wrist. The discussion frames them as accessories that happen to tell time, rather than objects built to win spec-sheet arguments. Overall, it’s an enthusiastic take that encourages open-mindedness about who a watch is “for.”
6 New Affordable Watches Just Dropped!
This video spotlights a fresh batch of budget-friendly releases, focusing on how much style and practicality can be packed into lower price points. The emphasis is on variety, with models meant to fit different tastes while staying accessible for everyday buyers. It presents the drop as a moment worth paying attention to for anyone building a collection without spending luxury money. The tone is upbeat and geared toward discovery rather than deep technical critique.
Don’t Buy A Lange & Sohne Until You Watch This (2026 Market Update)
This market-update video is a cautionary guide for anyone considering a Lange & Söhne purchase in 2026, stressing that timing and market conditions matter. It frames the brand’s watches as serious luxury buys where value, availability, and shifting demand can change the decision calculus. The host’s goal is to help viewers avoid making a purchase based on hype or outdated assumptions. It’s positioned as a practical “do your homework first” briefing before committing.
Everyone Thinks They Understand Rolex. They Don’t.
This video challenges common surface-level takes on Rolex by digging into what actually drives the brand’s appeal and influence. It points to the blend of history, culture, and execution that keeps Rolex at the center of the luxury watch conversation. The message is that many people focus only on status and scarcity while missing the deeper mechanics of why the brand remains so dominant. The result is a reframing meant to give viewers a more nuanced understanding of Rolex.
Four Married Men (For Now) Episode 7: Watch Makers We Would Love To Own One Day
In this episode, the hosts talk through watchmakers they aspire to own, using the conversation to highlight what makes certain brands and creators so compelling. The focus is on passion, storytelling, and the craft behind the watches rather than a strict buyer’s guide. It’s a relaxed, enthusiast-driven discussion that celebrates long-term “grail” thinking. The episode invites viewers to reflect on what they value most in watchmaking and why.
Georgia Benjamin’s 3-Watch Throw Down: Vintage Omega, Rolex Day-Date & Family Heirloom
Georgia Benjamin walks through a three-watch lineup that balances classic design, status, and personal meaning. The vintage Omega is framed around timeless styling and craft, while the Rolex Day-Date brings recognizable presence and everyday functionality. The heirloom adds emotional weight, turning the collection into a story about memory and continuity rather than just objects. The video emphasizes how a small collection can still cover a wide range of identity and purpose.
Has Rolex just Confirmed the Return of the “Coke” GMT? (Pepsi Discontinued)
This video reacts to speculation that Rolex may be bringing back the “Coke” GMT, especially in light of chatter around the “Pepsi” being discontinued. It captures the excitement that even the possibility of a bezel-color shift can generate in the Rolex ecosystem. The discussion leans into what such a move could mean for collectors, demand, and the broader market conversation. It’s very much a pulse-check on hype, signals, and what Rolex might do next.
Inside Vacheron Constantin’s Greatest Astronomical Masterpieces
This video is a tour through Vacheron Constantin’s most ambitious astronomical watches, focusing on how technical complexity and artistic finishing work together. It highlights displays like planetary indications and celestial charts as examples of watchmaking that goes beyond daily utility. The presentation frames these pieces as “mechanical art,” built to impress visually and intellectually. It’s an appreciation-focused look at the brand’s highest-end creative and engineering output.
Is OMEGA still... Worth it?
This video asks whether Omega still delivers strong value and relevance in a luxury market that keeps changing. It looks at the brand through practical lenses like satisfaction, resale considerations, and how the watches stack up against shifting consumer expectations. The tone invites viewers to separate brand mythology from real-world ownership experience. It ultimately encourages a thoughtful, case-by-case approach to deciding whether Omega makes sense today.
The time of iconic watches is ending
This video argues that the cultural dominance of traditional “icon” watches is fading as smartwatches and digital-first devices take over everyday wrist time. It frames the shift as one where convenience and connectivity increasingly beat heritage and symbolism for many buyers. The point is not that mechanical watches disappear, but that their role and meaning change in a more tech-centered world. It’s a reflective take on how horology fits into modern life.
This Full Titanium Timex Could be a Microbrand Watch Killer
This video positions a new full-titanium Timex as a serious value play that could compete with popular microbrand offerings. The focus is on the material choice and the promise of durability and lightness at a level that might undercut rivals. It frames the watch as a potential expectations-reset for what mainstream brands can deliver in the segment. The tone is “pay attention,” especially for buyers who like microbrand specs but want broader availability.
Which German BAUHAUS Brand Belongs in Your Collection?
This video surveys German Bauhaus-influenced watch brands and discusses what makes each one distinctive for a collection. It emphasizes design principles, restraint, and how Bauhaus aesthetics translate into everyday wear. Rather than pushing a single “best” answer, it guides viewers to match brands to personal taste and collection goals. The takeaway is that Bauhaus style is broad enough to support multiple interpretations, depending on what you value.
Why Hype Watches Stopped Impressing Me
This video reflects on how “hype watches” can lose their magic once scarcity narratives fade and market saturation increases. It argues that when too many releases chase the same attention cycle, exclusivity and emotional connection can erode. The discussion frames hype as something that often turns watches into fashion signals instead of craft objects. It ends as a re-centering on what’s genuinely impressive in watchmaking once the hype wears off.
Dealing Time
eBay Finds: Full Sets from Angelus and Longines, Plus a Rare Vintage Seiko
This installment of eBay Finds highlights a mix of vintage watches that stand out for originality, condition, and character. The selection includes a vintage Longines Admiral with a gold-filled case and original Milanese bracelet, plus a 1970s Omega Genève Dynamic with a distinctive bullseye dial and unusual strap setup. It also features a colorful Sandoz diver, a Citizen “Bullhead” chronograph with a classic panda-dial look, and a rare Seiko Unique with clean, understated styling. Rounding out the picks is an Angelus military chronograph offered with original boxes and papers, a detail that adds meaningful collector appeal.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee.com
[Friday’s auction watch, the 2024 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Calendar 49.4MM Silver Dial Leather Strap (Q3918420) - was bid to $12,300 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2025 Louis Erard X Konstantin Chaykin “Unfrogettable Green” L. E. 40MM Green Dial Leather Strap (85340AA01)
Auction Report: The Frog Prince of Regulator Watches (and 178 People Get to Kiss It)
The listing is for the 2025 Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin “Unfrogettable Green” (ref. 85340AA01, often shown as 85340AA01.BVA191), a 40mm titanium collaboration that takes the duo’s familiar “face” concept and gives it a new fairytale wrapper—literally, with a crown-shaped winding crown meant to read like a tiara perched on the frog’s head. The seller calls it new, and the presence of the box plus papers dated December 2025 supports the “fresh-to-market” story you’d expect for a modern limited run. This is one of 178 pieces worldwide for the green edition, paired with a corresponding purple variant in the same quantity. The auction ends tonight at 9:14pm ET (Monday, February 16, 2026).
On the spec sheet, the watch is more serious than the grin suggests. The case is Grade 5 titanium, 40mm in diameter, and commonly reported at 12.45mm thick, with sapphire crystal (anti-reflective) and 50m water resistance. The caseback is display, and the overall package is intentionally lightweight and wearable—this isn’t a novelty the size of a hockey puck, it’s a fairly civilized daily-wear footprint dressed up as a mischievous character watch. The dial layout riffs on the regulator tradition Louis Erard loves (separating indications rather than a standard three-hand stack), while Chaykin’s contribution is the anthropomorphic “face” language he’s become famous for in his independent work—this collaboration effectively distills that vibe into a more accessible, Swiss-made platform.
The “history” here is really the arc of a repeat partnership: Louis Erard has been building a niche by pairing classic complications (especially regulator displays) with high-concept collaborations, and Konstantin Chaykin has carved out a cult following by turning time displays into expressive characters. This “Unfrogettable” release is positioned as a new chapter because the case design was reworked and the crown is explicitly part of the storytelling, not just hardware. In other words, it’s not merely “same joke, different color”—it’s a deliberate refresh aimed at collectors who want something playful, recognizable across a room, and still credibly executed.
Value is the trickiest part because the market is thin and hype-sensitive. Contemporary coverage pegged pricing at CHF 4,500 at launch. In the retail/dealer world, you can already see significant dispersion: at least one U.S. jeweler listing shows $6,900, while marketplace listings (e.g., Chrono24) can run materially higher (one example shows $9,666 for a “like new & unworn” 2025 piece). That spread usually signals two things: first, availability is patchy (178 pieces will do that), and second, this is a watch whose clearing price depends heavily on who’s in the room—Chaykin devotees, Louis Erard collab collectors, and “I want the frog” impulse buyers don’t all bid the same way. Practically, for a new/full-set December 2025 example, the most defensible expectation is that bidding will try to anchor around the launch price, then drift upward based on scarcity and how badly someone wants this colorway now, rather than waiting out the market.
My read: if the watch stays in that “cult-collab” lane (strong demand, not too many flipping listings), it has a path to closing in the mid-to-upper band of the currently visible secondary asks; if attention rotates to the next collaboration-of-the-week, it can just as easily settle closer to “reasonable premium over launch,” especially since Louis Erard is still, fundamentally, a value-driven proposition relative to many independents. Either way, the condition and completeness here are exactly what you want for a modern limited edition: new, full set, clean paperwork, and a defined edition size that’s small enough to matter but large enough to actually trade.
If you’re bidding, the question to answer before you type a number is simple: are you paying for a watch, or are you paying for the character? Because the movement and titanium case justify “nice Swiss regulator collab,” but the premium—if there is one—belongs to the grin, the crown, and the fact that only 177 other people can wear the same punchline.
Current bid: $3,900