BuyingTime Daily - February 13, 2026
Rolex trims output but gains share, COSC tightens standards, AP refines its Code 11.59—plus bold new releases and sharp industry shifts shaping 2026.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Buying Time yesterday read like a case study in controlled scarcity, rising standards, and a watch market that refuses to slow down—even when gold and currency headwinds say it probably should. The headline is Rolex, which, according to Swiss bank Vontobel, trimmed production for a second straight year in 2025 while still increasing market share, particularly above CHF 3,000. In other words, fewer watches, more power. The report frames this as strategy, not struggle, with pricing discipline and the growing Certified Pre-Owned program—now estimated around CHF 500 million—cementing the Crown’s grip on both primary and secondary channels. In a year where theft hit a record £1.7 billion globally and one watch was reported lost or stolen roughly every hour, Rolex also remains the most targeted brand, underscoring both desirability and risk in equal measure.
On the standards front, COSC unveiled its new Excellence Chronometer certification, tightening tolerances to -2/+4 seconds per day and adding magnetic resistance testing up to 200 Gauss along with power-reserve verification. It’s not METAS-level brutalism, but it’s a clear signal that chronometry is once again a competitive sport. Meanwhile, Audemars Piguet continues leaning into hospitality as strategy, relocating its London AP House to a multi-story townhouse on Clifford Street designed to feel more private club than boutique. Museum-grade vintage pieces, gourmet meals, curated storytelling—everything except, notably, a certified pre-owned lounge to match the current market moment. In ambassador news, Hublot tapped BTS star Jung Kook as global face of the brand, tying his global reach to the Big Bang Original Unico and reinforcing the brand’s long-running “fusion” ethos.
Feature coverage today swings between physical immersion and philosophical inclusion. A. Lange & Söhne opened a flagship on Old Bond Street, doubling down on the idea that haute horlogerie is best understood in person, with movement displays and tactile education taking center stage. The “inclusive exclusive” conversation continues as well, arguing that appreciation—not just acquisition—should anchor the hobby, with institutions like the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie pushing education as the gateway drug. Windup Watch Fair’s return to Dallas March 13–15 reinforces that grassroots accessibility theme, with over 40 brands, Texas-based makers in a dedicated roundup section, and the kind of hands-on atmosphere that no algorithm can replicate.
New releases were anything but sleepy. Armin Strom flexed technical muscle with the Dual Time GMT Resonance in rose gold, limited to 50 pieces at CHF 115,000, pairing twin time displays with the brand’s signature resonance architecture. Baltic closed its MR line with a 100-piece Moissanite Final Edition that leans tuxedo chic at approachable pricing, while Bremont added stealth to its Terra Nova Jumping Hour in black DLC with a snapping-hour complication and 56-hour reserve. Grand Seiko introduced its smallest high-end quartz models yet in 33mm Heritage references powered by the new 9F51 calibre, proving quartz still has teeth. Henri Grandjean & Cie returned from historical slumber with a triple-axis tourbillon “Magician” priced well into six figures, while MING debuted its first integrated bracelet on the 56.00 Starfield, limited to just 20 pieces. Add ceramic color theory from Rado, spacefaring nostalgia from Raketa, a guilloché-driven independent statement from J.N. Shapiro, and a bold Asia-Pacific exclusive from Franck Muller, and the release calendar feels anything but cautious.
On the review side, Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 38mm gets the refinement narrative treatment, framed as a more proportionally resolved evolution that finally stands on its own, while TAG Heuer revisits maritime heritage with the Carrera Chronograph Seafarer and its tide indicator complication, blending retro design cues with modern movement architecture. Video coverage ranges from first-luxury-watch primers and collector archetypes to wait-list skepticism and the latest speculation around the Rolex “Pepsi” GMT, plus a practical breakdown of what “Swiss Made” actually means in a globally sourced industry.
At auction, Thursday’s Panerai Luminor Quaranta BiTempo bid to $4,869 but failed to meet reserve, suggesting buyers remain disciplined even in softer segments. The spotlight tonight is on the 2024 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Calendar, currently sitting at $9,550 with the hammer falling at 9:24 pm. It’s a reminder that while production trims, chronometer standards, celebrity ambassadors, and integrated bracelets dominate headlines, the secondary market still delivers the daily reality check.
Scarcity is strategic, standards are tightening, and the hobby continues to stretch from six-figure resonance experiments to quartz purity in 33 millimeters. The watch universe keeps expanding—sometimes flipping over to show a different face, but always ticking forward.
-Michael Wolf
News Time
Rolex Trimmed Production In 2025 According To Swiss Bank Vontobel
A Vontobel report says Rolex cut production for a second straight year in 2025, yet still increased its market share, especially among watches priced above CHF 3,000. The report frames this as a deliberate strategy focused on scarcity and pricing power rather than maximizing unit volume, while other top brands also remain resilient in a pressured market. It also highlights Rolex’s Certified Pre-Owned program as a growing pillar, estimated around CHF 500 million in value. Rising gold prices and currency strength are flagged as broader headwinds for the Swiss industry, with more detail expected from upcoming industry analysis.
Read More >
The COSC Releases Excellence Chronometer, its New, Stricter Standard in Chronometry
COSC has introduced the Excellence Chronometer, a tightened chronometry standard meant to modernize and strengthen its certification relevance. The updated process adds criteria such as magnetic resistance testing (up to 200 Gauss), power-reserve verification, and checks intended to better reflect real-world wear. Accuracy tolerance is improved to a daily rate of -2/+4 seconds, which is stricter than before but still not as demanding as some competing standards. Pilot testing is slated to begin in March 2026, with full rollout expected in October 2026.
First Review: Audemars Piguet’s newest AP House
Audemars Piguet has moved its London AP House into a renovated four-story townhouse on Clifford Street, replacing the previous single-floor lounge. The new space is designed to feel more like a private club than a retail store, with hospitality-forward areas, storytelling rooms, and museum-grade vintage pieces on display. The goal is a more immersive, relationship-driven experience for collectors, complete with premium drinks and gourmet meals. One notable omission mentioned is the lack of a certified pre-owned area, which could have complemented the concept.
Hublot names BTS star Jung Kook as global ambassador
Hublot has announced Jung Kook as its new global brand ambassador, positioning the partnership around shared themes of originality and innovation. The announcement emphasizes Hublot’s history of “fusion” thinking and ties that spirit to Jung Kook’s cultural reach and creative output. Jung Kook highlights a personal connection to Hublot through the 2022 FIFA World Cup, where the brand served as official timekeeper, linking the idea of time to performance and music. Hublot points to the Big Bang Original Unico (launched January 2026) as the key model representing this collaboration.
Luxury watch theft value hits record £1.7bn
Luxury watch theft reached an estimated $2.15 billion in 2025, with roughly one watch reported lost or stolen every hour according to The Watch Register. The database has expanded to 114,000 recorded timepieces, and online serial-number checks rose 29% year over year, suggesting stronger adoption of verification tools across the trade. Rolex remains the most targeted brand, appearing frequently in both checks and theft reports. The report also notes a meaningful rise in successful identifications of stolen or lost watches, pointing to the impact of shared data in disrupting illicit resale.
Feature Time
A. Lange & Söhne boutique London
A. Lange & Söhne has opened a flagship boutique on Old Bond Street in London, creating a dedicated space for people interested in haute horlogerie. The feature argues that luxury watches are best understood in person, since craftsmanship and finishing details do not translate fully through online shopping. Inside, visitors can explore brand history, view disassembled movements, and learn about complications in a setting designed to feel modern but refined. The boutique is positioned as both a retail destination and an educational experience that reinforces the value of hands-on discovery.
Inclusive Exclusive Watchmaking — What’s It All About?
This piece makes the case for “inclusive exclusive” watchmaking, where the emphasis shifts from owning expensive watches to understanding and appreciating the craft behind them. It notes that soaring prices can push curious newcomers away, even when the artistry and stories are what make the hobby compelling. Organizations and brands, including the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, are highlighted for education-driven efforts meant to broaden access and inspire future enthusiasts. The end goal is a wider community that values watchmaking like a cultural pursuit, not just a purchase.
The Inherent Significance of the Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto
The database entry for this item does not include a Long Summary for February 13, 2026, so I cannot produce a 3–4 sentence summary “from the long summary” as requested.
Event Time
Windup Watch Fair Returns to Dallas for the Second Year in a Row
Windup Watch Fair is coming back to Dallas for a second straight year, expanding into a three-day weekend running March 13 to 15, 2026. Hosted at the Hickory Street Annex, the event will feature more than 40 watch brands, with sponsors including Christopher Ward, Junghans, and Oris. The fair is positioned as a hands-on, community-focused weekend where attendees can see new releases, handle popular models, and meet brand representatives. A dedicated “Texas Roundup” section will spotlight Texas-based brands, alongside food trucks, activations, and experiences like whisky tastings and live art, with free admission for all.
The Latest Time
Armin Strom
Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Rose Gold
This limited edition travel watch (50 pieces) pairs Armin Strom’s resonance concept with an 18k rose-gold case in a compact 39mm profile. It uses twin crowns to set two time zones independently and offers 50m water resistance, while the two black-gold time displays are warmed up with rose-gold details. Inside is the hand-wound in-house calibre ARF22, running two independent gear trains that synchronize through resonance, with a 42-hour power reserve. Price is listed at CHF 115,000 (about $148,350).
Baltic
The Baltic MR Moissanite Final Edition
Baltic is closing out its MR collection with a 100-piece “Final Edition” that leans into a tuxedo-style dress watch format. The 36mm steel case gets a baguette-cut moissanite bezel, and buyers can choose between a Breguet-numeral “Classic” dial or a more technical double-sector “Roulette” layout. Both versions use an ultra-thin Hangzhou calibre 5000 automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve. Pricing is listed at €1,100 on strap (about $1,309) or €1,160 on bracelet (about $1,379), before tax.
Bremont
The Bremont Terra Nova 38 Jumping Hour Stealth Black
This model brings a jumping-hour display into a rugged, military-leaning design with a fully black DLC-coated 38mm steel case. The dial is covered by a protective layer with three apertures for hours, minutes, and running seconds, emphasizing utility and legibility. Bremont’s proprietary calibre BC634 is designed to snap the hour forward in under a tenth of a second and provides a 56-hour power reserve. Pricing is €5,900 on bracelet (about $7,029) or €5,450 on leather (about $6,487).
Read More >
Delbana
A Quartet of New Dial Colours for the Delbana Rotonda
Delbana updates the Rotonda with four new monochromatic dial colors (mocha, purple, black, and blue) while keeping the distinctive central “rotunda” motif. The refreshed look adds larger luminous Arabic numerals and simplified markers, paired with retro syringe-style hands and a red-tipped seconds hand. The 40mm steel case is topped by sapphire, rated to 50m water resistance, and powered by the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement. Pricing is CHF 870 on bracelet (about $1,122) or CHF 770 on leather (about $993).
Franck Muller
Franck Muller Vanguard Sport Asia Pacific Exclusive
Franck Muller’s Asia Pacific Exclusive version of the Vanguard Sport swaps in a brushed dial with a sun guilloché finish for a different texture and depth than the standard model. The watch keeps the line’s bold, sporty character with prominent raised numerals and a polished steel case meant to work as an everyday luxury piece. It runs on the MVD 2536-SCDT automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve and decorative finishing. The listed price is SGD 16,600 (about $13,086).
Grand Seiko
Grand Seiko’s Smallest High-End Quartz Models Yet
Grand Seiko introduced two 33mm Heritage Collection quartz models, the “Snowflake” SBGX359 and “Skyflake” SBGX361, built around the new cal. 9F51. The smaller case size is achieved without stepping down to a lesser movement family, keeping the technical strengths associated with the 9F line. Design details include textured dials and Grand Seiko’s signature thick, sharply finished hands, plus sapphire and practical water resistance. Price is listed at $3,200, with availability starting April 2026.
Henri Grandjean & Cie
The Henri Grandjean & Cie Magician Watch Showcases A Mysterious Triple-Axis Tourbillon
Henri Grandjean & Cie returns after more than a century with the Magician, centered around a dramatic triple-axis tourbillon intended to appear as if it floats in space. The 45mm watch is offered in multiple configurations, including titanium and precious-metal cases, some with extensive engraving or gem-setting. Power comes from an in-house hand-wound movement with 218 components, running at 21,600 vph with about 42 hours of reserve, while the three tourbillon cages rotate at different speeds for visual effect. Pricing is listed at CHF 350,000 for titanium (about $451,500) and from CHF 380,000 for gold (about $490,200).
J.N. Shapiro
J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure Davidson & Licht Edition
This is a three-piece limited edition created to mark Davidson & Licht’s 110th anniversary, built around J.N. Shapiro’s hand-guilloché “Infinity Weave” dial. The design adds a rose-gold chapter ring and a display back to showcase the La Joux-Perret Caliber F200 movement. The entry positions it as a highly collectible chance to buy into a rising independent watchmaker with strong retailer support. The listed price is $27,000 per watch.
Ming Watches
MING 56.00 Starfield
The 56.00 Starfield debuts MING’s first integrated bracelet, designed for comfort and featuring a toolless adjustment system tied to two pending patents. A Vaucher-based automatic calibre powers the watch, and the 40mm steel case is rated to 100m water resistance for genuine everyday use. The dial is a laser-etched sapphire design paired with blued dauphine hands, and the caseback reveals a custom lumed rotor. Limited to 20 pieces, it is priced at CHF 19,500 (about $25,155).
Read More >
Rado
The Rado True Round × Les Couleurs Le Corbusier Special Editions
Rado’s trio of special editions uses Le Corbusier’s 63-shade color system to connect each watch to a specific architectural landmark. The cases are rendered in high-tech ceramic, with dial textures and tones chosen to echo the materials and mood of the referenced buildings. Inside is the automatic R763 movement with an 80-hour power reserve, plus 50m water resistance for practical wear. Each model is priced at €2,750 (about $3,277) and comes in a commemorative presentation box.
Raketa
Raketa Baikonur Celebrates 65 Years of Human Space Travel
Raketa marks dual 65th anniversaries with the Baikonur, presented as a tool watch built with astronaut use in mind. The 42mm steel case is rated to 200m and uses a dual-crown layout to operate an internal bezel that includes compass and dual-time functionality. It also uses a 24-hour primary display to better align with spaceflight timekeeping realities, and the movement is designed to protect the winding system in challenging conditions. The listed pre-order price is €2,400 (about $2,851).
Wearing Time - Reviews
Audemars Piguet
Hands On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 38 mm | SJX Watches
The Code 11.59 in 38mm is presented as a more refined, better-proportioned evolution of the collection, aiming to stand on its own rather than living in the Royal Oak’s shadow. The review highlights improved wearability, slimmer straps, and richly textured embossed dials that push it further into modern dress-watch territory while still feeling slightly sporty. Power comes from the Vaucher-derived calibre 5900 with a 60-hour reserve, along with sapphire crystal and 30m water resistance. The price listed is $37,700, positioning it as a serious luxury alternative for buyers who want AP craftsmanship in a less obvious silhouette.
TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer
This review frames the Carrera Chronograph Seafarer as a contemporary revival of a historic maritime chronograph, combining retro styling with modern specs and an updated Calibre TH20-04 movement. The champagne opaline dial uses a classic three-register layout, including a tide indicator that nods directly to the original Seafarer’s purpose. A 42mm steel case, domed sapphire crystal, and 100m water resistance keep it practical, while the pushers are described as easy to use. It is offered on a steel bracelet with an additional beige sports strap, with pricing listed at £7,450.
Watching Time - Videos
10 PERFECT First Luxury Watches for New Collectors
This video walks new collectors through choosing a first luxury watch with less stress and fewer expensive mistakes. It frames the decision around practical criteria like build quality, brand track record, and long-term satisfaction, rather than hype. By presenting a curated list of ten options, it gives viewers concrete starting points and context for what makes each watch a strong “entry” piece. The overall aim is to help beginners feel confident navigating a market that can be overwhelming at first.
GQ Editor’s WATCH DROP Picks | Drop #264
GQ’s WATCH DROP episode highlights a curated set of current picks, with an emphasis on style, wearability, and what feels relevant right now. It presents watches as part of a broader personal style toolkit, not just a collector hobby, and focuses on pieces that balance design with everyday function. The format is meant to be quick and accessible, offering guidance for both enthusiasts and casual viewers. It serves as a trend snapshot that helps viewers see what is getting attention in the watch world this week.
Inside Audemars Piguet’s AP Social Club 2026
This video offers a behind-the-scenes look at Audemars Piguet’s AP Social Club and the kind of community experiences the brand is building around its collectors. It combines interviews with brand figures and event footage to underline how AP connects heritage, craftsmanship, and modern culture. The story leans heavily on the idea that luxury watch ownership is also about belonging and shared enthusiasm, not only the product itself. The result is a polished look at how AP reinforces brand identity through exclusive access and storytelling.
ON TIME: Why Serious Watch Collectors Refuse Wait Lists
This video explains why many experienced collectors avoid wait lists, arguing that the buying experience matters almost as much as the watch itself. It frames wait lists as a friction point that can undercut enjoyment, spontaneity, and the sense of fairness that some collectors want in the hobby. It also emphasizes relationship-based buying, where collectors prefer direct rapport with dealers or boutiques over formalized queues. The broader takeaway is that skipping wait lists reflects collector values around access, authenticity, and community.
Rolex Pepsi DISCONTINUED! - BUY NOW?
This video discusses the reported discontinuation of the Rolex “Pepsi” and what that could mean for demand, availability, and pricing. It frames the moment as a potential inflection point where remaining inventory could become more sought after, especially among collectors who value the model’s iconic design. The video also positions the decision as part watch enthusiasm and part market timing, weighing whether “buy now” makes sense. It ultimately focuses on how discontinuations can change both sentiment and resale dynamics for popular references.
The 9 Watch Collectors You Will Meet In This Hobby
This video maps out common watch-collector archetypes, showing how different motivations shape collections and purchasing behavior. It ranges from technically driven enthusiasts to social collectors and minimalists who keep a tight, intentional lineup. By using these “types,” it helps viewers recognize patterns in the community and possibly identify where they fit. The tone is observational and community-focused, emphasizing that there is no single correct way to enjoy the hobby.
This is one of the Most Overlooked Luxury Dive Watches
This video spotlights a luxury dive watch it believes does not get enough attention, focusing on durability, functionality, and overall execution. It argues that the watch holds its own as a serious tool diver while still offering the finishing and presence luxury buyers expect. The discussion also leans into versatility, presenting it as something that can work both underwater and as an everyday style piece. The goal is to make the case that it is a stronger value or a more interesting choice than more obvious, over-discussed alternatives.
Why Your $5,000 Watch Isn’t 100% Swiss Made
This video breaks down what “Swiss Made” can and cannot mean in practice, especially at higher price points. It explains how global supply chains and internationally sourced components can still fit within legal labeling rules. The discussion is meant to sharpen viewers’ understanding of authenticity, value, and marketing claims in the industry. The takeaway is a more realistic view of how modern watch manufacturing works behind the prestige language.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee.com
[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2023 Panerai Luminor Quaranta BiTempo 40MM White Dial Rubber Strap (PAM01367) - was bid to $4,869 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2024 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Calendar 49.4MM Silver Dial Leather Strap (Q3918420)
Auction Report: The Two-Faced Calendar: A Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso That Actually Earns the Flip
The watch on offer is a 2024 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Calendar (ref. Q3918420) on leather, represented by the seller as being in very good condition and delivered as a proper full set: inner/outer boxes, additional items, and papers dated February 3, 2024. The auction ends tonight at 9:24 (Friday, February 13, 2026).
If you’re going to buy a Reverso in 2026, this is one of the cleaner ways to do it because it leans into what makes the model special instead of treating the flipping case like a party trick you use once and then forget. The Q3918420 is the modern “large” Tribute format at 49.4 × 29.9 mm and about 10.9 mm thick, in stainless steel, with 30 m water resistance—translation: elegant, wearable, and not remotely interested in your lap-swim ambitions.
On the “front” (recto), you get a restrained, classical Reverso dial in silvered grey with a complete calendar layout and moonphase—day, date, month, and moonphase are all there without turning the watch into a cluttered infographic. On the flip side (verso), the personality changes: a deep blue sunray dial with a second time zone and a day/night indicator, so the Duoface complication is doing real work, not just giving you a different color to stare at. The movement is Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 853, manual winding, which is exactly what you want in a Reverso—thin, traditional, and built for this case architecture.
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s broader “Reverso origin story” matters here because it explains why this design keeps surviving trend cycles. The Reverso was created in 1931, originally as a practical solution for polo players who wanted to protect the crystal by flipping the case over; that functional gimmick became a defining design language—gadroons, rectangular geometry, Art Deco restraint—that still reads as distinctive today. In more recent history, this specific steel Duoface Calendar configuration (including Q3918420) was part of a 2022 refresh of the Tribute Duoface Calendar line, updating the dials and overall aesthetic while keeping the core concept intact.
Now the money part. On Jaeger-LeCoultre’s U.S. site, the Reverso Tribute Duoface Calendar in steel is currently listed at US$19,000 (excluding taxes). On the secondary market, WatchCharts pegs the model’s market price at about $13,912 as of February 10, 2026, with an older “retail price” snapshot shown around $17,100 (Dec 2022)—useful mainly as context for how the model has moved over time. Recent public auction comp data aggregated by EveryWatch shows realized prices for Q3918420 varying meaningfully by venue and specifics (condition, completeness, timing), with examples in 2025 around the high single digits to low teens. Taken together, a full-set, “very good” 2024 example like this usually wants to live in a realistic hammer neighborhood around the low-to-mid teens, with upside if the listing photos show crisp case lines, clean dial furniture, and straps that aren’t cooked.
What I’d be looking at closely before bidding is boring-but-expensive stuff: the sharpness of the Reverso case edges and gadroons (over-polishing is the silent killer of value on these), the alignment and cleanliness of the calendar apertures/discs, and whether the flip mechanism feels tight and confident. The papers dated February 3, 2024 are a meaningful plus for buyer confidence and resale liquidity, and the “two straps included” detail is part of how this reference is positioned—many examples ship with a second strap, often tied to the Casa Fagliano collaboration vibe that fits the Reverso’s sporty heritage without making it look like a “sports watch.”
Bottom line: this is a Reverso that does the Reverso thing properly—two dials with two different jobs, a calendar side that stays elegant, a travel side that stays useful, and a mechanical format that feels correct for the case. If the condition really is “very good” in the photos (and not “very good for something that spent a year auditioning for door-handle duty”), it’s a credible target for someone who wants high horology flavor without paying precious-metal tariffs in either dollars or wrist presence.
Current bid: $9,550