BuyingTime Daily - February 11, 2026
AP’s new London House, fresh indie releases, deep-dive reviews from Timex to Louis Vuitton, must-watch videos, and a hype-heavy Nautilus auction—all in one issue.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Today’s watch news leans heavily into experience, storytelling, and a healthy mix of the attainable and the utterly unattainable. Audemars Piguet leads the day with a first look at its new London AP House, trading traditional retail theater for something closer to a private club experience. Set inside a restored 18th-century townhouse, the space is all about hospitality, conversation, and slowing the buying process down—less glass case urgency, more long-game relationship building. It’s a reminder that at the very top end, how you sell the watch may now matter almost as much as the watch itself.
On the more accessible end of the spectrum, Bulova celebrates a decade of its Curv platform with a handsome 10th Anniversary Edition that leans into warm tones and everyday wearability, while still showcasing the brand’s high-frequency quartz party trick. There’s also an insightful profile of Bangalore Watch Company, where co-founder Nirupesh B. Joshi explains how a modern Indian narrative—rooted in aviation, space, and local manufacturing—has helped the brand quietly become one of the more interesting growth stories in independent watchmaking. Meanwhile, a deeply personal piece on choosing an Omega Speedmaster with the Calibre 321 reinforces a familiar truth: sometimes the “right” watch isn’t about specs or hype, but about the one that keeps pulling you back.
New releases span just about every price and personality. Alpina teams up with Label Noir for a snow-dialed Alpiner Manufacture that looks far more bespoke than its limited run of 130 pieces might suggest. Astor+Banks rethinks the field watch with the Terra Scout, proving that legibility and originality don’t have to be mutually exclusive, while Hamilton dives headfirst into gaming culture with two Resident Evil–themed limited editions that feel more thoughtful than a simple logo slap. Looking ahead, British Watchmakers’ Day 2026 is shaping up to be a limited-edition feeding frenzy, with dozens of UK brands planning ultra-small runs that will likely sell out faster than you can say “queue.”
Reviews today cover serious horology and everyday fun in equal measure. Louis Vuitton dominates the high end with an updated Escale Worldtime and the jaw-dropping LVDB-03 collaboration with De Bethune, complete with a Symphatique clock and a price tag that firmly lives in fantasy-watch territory. At the other end, Nivada Grenchen delivers a faithful and charming Antarctic GMT reissue, while Timex reminds everyone—twice—that affordability and personality are still very much alive with the MK1 Automatic and the delightfully odd Q Timex Red Vega 1978 Reissue. Unimatic rounds things out with a subtle but clever evolution of its Modello Cinque, leaning into dimensional lume and compact proportions.
On the video front, there’s plenty to watch, from a head-to-head look at Louis Vuitton’s latest travel watches to a deep dive into Bovet’s mechanical philosophy with Pascal Raffy. Value hunters will appreciate a roundup of the best watches under $1,000, while vintage fans get a peek inside a private Miami collector gathering. Design lovers can geek out over enamel dials, Christopher Ward’s Green Fifteen, and more speculation around the fate of the Rolex Pepsi GMT.
Finally, today’s auction spotlight lands squarely on the hype end of the pool with a rose-gold Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980/1R-001 currently sitting at $140,000. With its discontinued status, full-set appeal, and chronograph credentials, it’s the kind of watch that reminds you auctions are equal parts research exercise and nerve test—especially with the clock ticking toward tonight’s close.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
First Review: Audemars Piguet’s New AP House For London
Audemars Piguet has opened a new AP House in London, relocating from New Bond Street to a stunning 18th-century neo-classical townhouse on Clifford Street. The new space, which underwent an 18-month renovation, emphasizes hospitality and a luxurious experience rather than traditional retail, with designer seating, premium beverages, and a serene atmosphere that resembles an exclusive private members’ club. The layout features distinct areas for storytelling, product displays, and consultations, all designed to enhance customer engagement and loyalty. The new AP House redefines the luxury watch shopping experience, blending modern retail strategies with a classic sense of exclusivity.
Feature Time
Bulova Celebrates a Decade of Grading on the Curv
Bulova celebrates ten years of its innovative Curv watch design, which introduced a wrist-conforming case that made sophisticated horology accessible to a broader audience. The recent release of the Curv 10th Anniversary Edition features a chocolate-brown dial and a 41mm steel case, showcasing Bulova’s precision 262kHz quartz movement with a translucent chocolate overlay that adds visual complexity. The new model emphasizes both style and functionality with its sleek design, tapered bracelet links, and a quick-swap strap system for easy customization. Priced at $1,450, the Curv 10th Anniversary Edition reflects Bulova’s commitment to blending cutting-edge design with accessibility in luxury watches.
Nirupesh B. Joshi, Co-Founder of Bangalore Watch Company, One of India’s Fastest-Growing Watch Brands
Nirupesh B. Joshi, co-founder of Bangalore Watch Company, highlights the brand’s unique position in the global watch market, emphasizing its modern Indian narrative and commitment to quality. With backgrounds in tech consulting, Joshi and his partner approached watchmaking with fresh perspectives, developing a diverse product line that reflects modern themes such as India’s space program and aviation. The brand has successfully localized much of its supply chain while maintaining international relationships, with 35% of its business coming from overseas markets like the US, UAE, and Singapore. Their flagship boutique in Bangalore will serve as a hub for customer interaction and community events, further solidifying their brand identity in the watchmaking landscape.
Why My First Speedmaster Had To Be The Calibre 321
After over five years with the Fratello team, the decision to finally acquire a Speedmaster was significant, with the myriad of options making the choice daunting. Throughout the journey, various models were considered, but the Calibre 321 stood out after a memorable encounter at a Speedy Tuesday event in Hong Kong, with its design, movement, and emotional connection solidifying its status as the ideal choice. The transition to ownership involved part-exchanging a previous Rolex Explorer II, and the Calibre 321 has quickly integrated into the collection with its unique features like the sapphire crystal, ceramic bezel, and striking aesthetics of the Omega 321 movement. The experience emphasizes the importance of taking time to find the right watch that aligns with personal preferences and fits seamlessly into one’s collection.
Event Time
Five Watches I’m Looking Forward to Seeing at British Watchmakers’ Day 2026
British Watchmakers’ Day 2026 is set to be an exciting event in London, showcasing 48 UK-based brands, with a focus on exclusive limited edition watch releases. This year, 26 brands will unveil limited editions, each restricted to a maximum of 50 pieces, ensuring their uniqueness for attendees. Anticipated highlights include the Christopher Ward C1 Loco 7326, featuring a refined design and a Union Jack engraved dial, and the William Wood Great Fire of London Watch, which pays homage to the city’s history with its Big Ben-inspired design and a collector’s coin embedded in the caseback. Other noteworthy timepieces include the Apiar Gen1.1 Underground, inspired by the London Underground map, and Schofield’s Skeptico, which explores abstract design and incorporates unconventional materials.
The Latest Time
Alpina
Alpina x Label Noir Alpiner Manufacture Date Special Edition
The Alpina x Label Noir Alpiner Manufacture Date Special Edition is a limited edition watch designed in collaboration with the Geneva-based customization studio Label Noir, featuring a snow-white dial and a striking hammered stainless steel case. This unique piece, limited to just 130 pieces, utilizes a manufacture calibre that boasts a 72-hour power reserve and an intricate dial texture that evokes the appearance of freshly fallen snow. Equipped with a 41.5mm case, the watch showcases a sophisticated aesthetic with a practical pointer date display, Super-LumiNova hands, and is water-resistant up to 50 meters. The retail price is set at approximately $4,065 USD.
Astor+Banks
This Affordable Field Watch Reimagines Legibility With a Bold New Dial
Astor and Banks has launched the Terra Scout, an automatic field watch that diverges from traditional military designs while maintaining functionality, featuring unique design elements like blunted dauphine hands, a hybrid dial construction, and an integrated date indicator. The watch is available in four references with sandblasted and coated steel cases, equipped with Super-LumiNova for visibility and a La Joux-Perret G100 automatic movement that boasts a 68-hour power reserve. Currently available at a launch price of $875 for three of the references, with the limited edition Desert Sand model offered at $975. This release signifies a confident evolution for the brand, showcasing thoughtful design and innovation.
Hamilton
Hamilton Enters the World of Resident Evil Requiem with Two Limited Editions
Hamilton has ventured into the realm of video games with the launch of two limited edition watches inspired by the characters from “Resident Evil Requiem,” both limited to 2,000 pieces and set to launch alongside the game on February 27, 2026. The first model, the Khaki Field Auto Chrono designed for Leon S. Kennedy, features a tactical black PVD-coated stainless steel case with sniper scope-like crown and bullet cartridge-inspired chronograph pushers, powered by Hamilton’s automatic chronograph calibre H-21 with a 60-hour power reserve, retailing at approximately $2,099 USD. The second model, the American Classic Pan Europ reflecting FBI analyst Grace Ashcroft, showcases a more restrained design with gold accents on a black PVD-coated case, powered by the H-30 calibre with an 80-hour power reserve, priced at approximately $1,357 USD. These watches embody the essence of their respective characters and enhance Hamilton’s legacy as a watchmaker that bridges the gap between cinema and gaming.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Louis Vuitton
Hands On: Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime
The Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime has undergone significant revisions, enhancing its legibility and incorporating an in-house movement with a sleeker aesthetic, improved functionality with a minutes hand and jumping hours display, and a refined case that enhances comfort and sophistication. The updated design retains the charm of the original model while presenting numerous improvements, with optimized dimensions for a more comfortable fit and an updated dial that provides better readability with an innovative cities disc. The LFT VO12.01 movement inside offers robust performance with a 62-hour power reserve, showcasing high horology craftsmanship. Despite its high price point of over $90,000, the watch is positioned as a valuable offering in the luxury market, especially given its platinum construction and artisanal hand-painted dial.
Louis Vuitton
Hands-on Review: the new Louis Vuitton x De Bethune LVDB-03
The new Louis Vuitton x De Bethune LVDB-03 watch is a limited edition timepiece retailing at approximately $412,500 USD, with only ten pieces available, as part of a collaboration that reinterprets the historical concept of the Symphatique mechanism originally conceived by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1795. The LVDB-03 features a titanium case with a striking blue finish and a dial adorned with gold accents, utilizing a manual-winding movement with complex functionalities such as a second time zone and a day/night indicator. The watch is accompanied by an impressive Symphatique clock that acts as a master timekeeper, capable of synchronizing and winding the watch automatically, showcasing the craftsmanship of De Bethune with a manual-winding movement featuring an eleven-day power reserve. Both items are presented in custom-designed trunks, emphasizing their exclusivity and luxury while reflecting Louis Vuitton’s commitment to haute horlogerie.
Nivada Grenchen
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT Black Review
The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT Black is a modern re-issue of a vintage model, meticulously designed to combine historical charm with contemporary horological technology, retaining the original dimensions of 36mm in diameter while incorporating modern features like a top-hat acrylic crystal and a Swiss-made Soprod C125 caliber movement. The unique design elements include a striking black and red checkered GMT hand and a black and yellow inner-rotating bezel, which adds to its vintage aesthetic while ensuring practicality for today’s users. This timepiece appeals visually and demonstrates functionality with features such as a water-resistant case and an easy-to-read dial with luminous markers. The Antarctic GMT Black showcases Nivada Grenchen’s commitment to preserving the integrity of their original designs while delivering a reliable and stylish watch suitable for both collectors and casual wearers alike.
Timex
The Faithful and Affordable Timex MK1 Automatic
The Timex MK1 Automatic is a modern and affordable military-inspired field watch that revives Timex’s mechanical watch production after a long hiatus, featuring a 40mm stainless steel case, a vintage-style acrylic crystal, and a Miyota 8215 automatic movement. The watch is designed for comfort and practicality, equipped with a clear dial featuring oversized Arabic numerals and a water resistance of 50 meters. Retailing for approximately $309 USD, the Timex MK1 Automatic offers exceptional value for its fit and finish, alongside features typically found in more expensive watches. With its compelling design and reliable performance, it stands as a worthy competitor to other mechanical field watches, making it an excellent choice for anyone seeking a robust and stylish daily timepiece.
Timex
Timex Unearths a Forgotten Cinematic Cult Classic with the Q Timex Red Vega 1978 Reissue
Timex has reissued the Q Timex Red Vega 1978, a watch that pays homage to a cult classic from cinematic history, featuring a striking nebula-patterned dial in a vibrant red hue housed in a 38mm brushed and polished stainless-steel case. It retains the unique multifaceted acrylic crystal reminiscent of the original 1978 model and comes with a black leather strap honoring the historical styling that John Travolta wore in Pulp Fiction. The reissue includes thoughtful details such as the day/date window with a stainless-steel surround, reflecting the design of the 1978 model. Retailing at $209, the Timex Red Vega Reissue combines striking aesthetics with Hollywood legacy, making it an attractive option for both collectors and casual wearers alike.
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Unimatic
Hands-On: The Unimatic Modello Cinque U5S-BL Offers A Subtle New Twist Of Dimensionality
The Unimatic Modello Cinque U5S-BL introduces a fresh twist with its innovative “UNILIGHT” three-dimensional luminous markers, enhancing the depth of the dial compared to previous models, with a compact 36mm case and a unique 22mm lug width designed for smaller wrists while maintaining appeal for larger wearers. The deep black dial contrasts beautifully with the solid luminous blocks and metallic silver outlines, creating an attractive aesthetic. The U5S-BL comes with an automatic movement and is priced at $1,390, featuring two strap options: an olive drab NATO strap and a black leather strap. The watch’s design has proven popular, with the 300-piece steel version selling out shortly after its release, highlighting the enduring appeal of Unimatic’s distinct style.
Watching Time - Videos
New Louis Vuitton Escale Twin Zone & Escale Worldtime: Which would you pick?
The video explores two new luxury watch models from Louis Vuitton: the Escale Twin Zone and the Escale Worldtime, showcasing stunning craftsmanship and innovative features designed to appeal to watch enthusiasts and luxury consumers alike. The Escale Twin Zone allows users to track time in two different zones simultaneously, making it ideal for travelers, while the Escale Worldtime displays multiple time zones at a glance, perfect for those who frequently communicate across borders. Viewers are invited to consider their preferences between the two models, weighing the practicality and unique functionalities of each. This comparison highlights the technical aspects and reflects on the lifestyle and status associated with owning a luxury watch from Louis Vuitton.
Inside the Mind of Pascal Raffy: How Bovet Creates Mechanical Poetry
The video explores the intricate world of Bovet, a luxury watchmaker known for its artistic and mechanical craftsmanship, delving into the philosophy and creative vision of Pascal Raffy, the driving force behind Bovet, who emphasizes the importance of blending artistry with horological precision. Through a captivating visual journey, the video showcases the meticulous processes involved in the creation of Bovet watches, from design to execution, where each piece tells a unique story and reflects the brand’s commitment to excellence. The craftsmanship is emphasized as a labor of love, with intricate details and innovative features illustrating how Bovet continues to push the boundaries of traditional watchmaking while maintaining its heritage and artistic integrity.
Top 20 Best Watches Under $1,000 (That Should Cost WAY More!)
The video showcases an impressive selection of affordable timepieces that offer exceptional quality and style, focusing on how these watches, despite being priced under $1,000, rival luxury models that typically come with a much higher price tag. The content emphasizes the craftsmanship, durability, and aesthetic appeal of each featured watch, highlighting their value for money. Viewers can expect a curated list that not only informs but also inspires potential watch buyers to consider these hidden gems in the world of horology, proving that affordability does not have to compromise quality or design.
Inside A Private Vintage Watch Collector Gathering In Miami!
A private gathering of vintage watch collectors took place in Miami, showcasing a remarkable array of timepieces that reflect the passion and dedication of enthusiasts in the horology community. Attendees, including both seasoned collectors and newcomers, shared their knowledge and experiences, fostering a sense of camaraderie and appreciation for the intricate craftsmanship of vintage watches. The event served as a platform for networking, where collectors discussed their favorite pieces, trends in the market, and the stories behind their most cherished watches. The atmosphere was vibrant, filled with excitement as individuals displayed their collections and engaged in lively conversations, highlighting the unique charm and allure of vintage timepieces.
Are ENAMEL Dials The Next BIG THING in Watches
Enamel dials are emerging as a significant trend in the watch industry, captivating enthusiasts and collectors alike with their unique aesthetic appeal characterized by vibrant colors and intricate designs, offering a refreshing alternative to traditional materials. As watchmakers explore innovative techniques in enamel craftsmanship, the durability and depth of these dials enhance the overall value and desirability of timepieces. The growing interest in enamel dials reflects a broader movement towards artisanal and handcrafted elements in luxury watches, with brands increasingly prioritizing heritage and craftsmanship. As such, they are likely to become a staple in future watch collections, appealing to those who appreciate both functionality and artistry in their horological investments.
Behind the Design - Christopher Ward Green Fifteen
The video explores the intricate design process of the Green Fifteen watch by Christopher Ward, delving into the creative vision and technical expertise required to produce a timepiece that stands out in both functionality and aesthetics. The narrative highlights the commitment to quality and innovation that defines the brand, showcasing how each element of the watch contributes to its overall appeal. Viewers are given a behind-the-scenes look at the meticulous attention to detail that goes into the production process, emphasizing the blend of modern technology and traditional watchmaking techniques. This exploration celebrates not only the final product but also the journey of bringing such a sophisticated watch to life.
Rolex Pepsi GMT to be Discontinued this Year CONFIRMED!? | BLRO Removed from Rolex Bucherer Website
The Rolex Pepsi GMT, known for its iconic design and functionality, is rumored to be discontinued this year, as confirmed by its removal from the Rolex Bucherer website, sparking significant discussion among watch enthusiasts and collectors. The BLRO model has long been a favorite due to its distinctive blue and red bezel and dual-timezone feature. The news has raised concerns about the future availability and value of the Rolex Pepsi GMT, with many speculating on the potential implications for collectors and the secondary market, as limited availability often drives demand and increases prices.
These Game-Changing Watches Just Dropped!
A new lineup of game-changing watches has just been released, promising to elevate both functionality and style by incorporating cutting-edge technology and innovative designs that make them stand out in the competitive watch market. With features that cater to various lifestyles, from fitness enthusiasts to fashion-forward individuals, this collection aims to meet diverse needs while offering aesthetic appeal. The watches showcase the latest advancements in horology while emphasizing durability and user-friendliness, with a focus on enhancing everyday experiences. These watches are set to become essential accessories for anyone looking to combine practicality with modern design.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee.com
[Tuesday;s auction watch, the 2024 Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite 44MM Silver Dial Textile Strap (1-89-02-01-05-61) - was bid to $14,003 but did not meet its reserve price of $23,500. - make an offer]
2023 Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph 40.5MM Black Dial Rose Gold Bracelet (5980/1R-001)
Auction Report: The Rose-Gold Nautilus Flex (And Yes, It’s the Chronograph)
If you’re shopping in the deep end of the hype pool, the 2023 Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980/1R-001 is basically a canonical reference: 40.5mm of rose gold, an integrated bracelet that broadcasts “I meant to do this,” and the Nautilus chronograph layout with the signature monocounter at 6 o’clock and the date at 3. This specific configuration on bracelet was unveiled back in 2013, when Patek Philippe decided the Nautilus chronograph should stop pretending to be subtle.
A quick terminology correction that matters for listings: the 5980/1R-001 is the Nautilus Flyback Chronograph (not the “Travel Time Chronograph”). The Travel Time Chronograph Nautilus is the 5990 family, which adds the dual-time system. The 5980’s engine is Patek’s self-winding CH 28-520 C, featuring a flyback chronograph with vertical clutch, the stacked 60-minute/12-hour totalizer at 6, and a stated power reserve of roughly 45–55 hours.
On collectability, this is helped by timing: the rose-gold 5980 line was discontinued (with the chronograph concept continuing in other metals/variations afterward). That discontinuation dynamic is a big reason prices have stayed stubbornly elevated relative to retail. For a reality check on value today, WatchCharts pegs the 5980/1R market price around $197K as of February 9, 2026, with the last listed retail around $108,820 (as of January 2024). Asking prices in the wild tend to cluster roughly in the high-$100Ks to low-$200Ks depending on year, condition, and completeness, and you’ll see plenty of listings hovering around the ~$200K mark.
Your seller calls it “very good condition” and notes box and papers, which is the baseline collectors want on a modern Patek sports reference—though “full set” extras, recent service history, and whether it has the newer clasp style can still move the needle. With box/papers and no red flags, a reasonable expectation for where bidders may try to land is broadly mid-to-high $100Ks into the low $200Ks, with stronger results if condition is genuinely crisp and the listing presentation inspires confidence.
The auction ends tonight at 10:52pm on Wednesday, February 11, 2026. If you’re bidding, that’s a gift—use the extra runway to confirm the reference details, verify the bracelet/clasp condition (stretch matters), and make sure the paperwork matches the watch exactly.
Current bid: $140,000