BuyingTime Daily - February 10, 2026
Price cuts, brand shakeups, and standout new releases collide as the watch world recalibrates—plus fresh reviews, sharp opinions, and what everyone’s wearing now.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Today’s edition of Buying Time leans into the joyful chaos of modern watchmaking, starting with STUDIO UNDERD0G officially planting its flag on British soil. The brand’s new facility, charmingly dubbed the D0ghouse, marks a big moment for a company that has grown from a one-person passion project into a serious producer of 14,000 watches a year. Taking control of its own workshop opens the door to better scalability and deeper craftsmanship, and the promise of public visits beginning in May makes this one of the more watch-nerd-friendly expansion stories we’ve seen in a while.
Cultural watch spotting continued to dominate the headlines thanks to Super Bowl LX, where football took a back seat to wrists. ROLEX, PATEK PHILIPPE, AUDEMARS PIGUET, and even SEIKO all made appearances, with Bad Bunny once again proving he understands how to turn a Royal Oak into a halftime accessory and Travis Scott reminding everyone that personal style still beats pure luxury signaling. The broader Super Bowl roundup reinforced how watches now live comfortably at the intersection of sports, celebrity, and pop culture, rather than in a velvet-lined display case.
On the business side, Georges Kern offered a candid look at his evolving House of Brands strategy, touching BREITLING, GALLET, and UNIVERSAL GENÈVE in a wide-ranging conversation that balanced realism with optimism. Elsewhere, a deep dive into bracelet design reminded us that choices like Oyster, Jubilee, Milanese, and Beads of Rice matter just as much as the watch head itself, while a historical feature on ARNOLD & SON traced the brand’s journey from marine chronometers to modern constant-force tourbillons with a satisfying sense of continuity.
New releases kept the momentum going. CITIZEN leaned into celestial theatrics with its Attesa Shades of Red tied to the upcoming lunar eclipse, while MING made a bold move with the 56.00 Starfield, its first integrated-bracelet sports watch and one of the most visually arresting designs of the day. PRAESIDUS, TISSOT, URWERK, and VENEZIANICO rounded out a busy launch slate that spanned everything from accessible field watches to ceramic-clad horological experiments.
Reviews covered serious ground as well, with hands-on impressions of the ALPINA Alpiner Extreme Solarmetre, the technically refreshed AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked, the daily-wear ambitions of the MB&F LM101 EVO, and a reassessment of the quartz-powered OMEGA Seamaster 2541 as an underrated Bond-era classic. Add in eco-conscious gift ideas ahead of Valentine’s Day and early details on Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, and it’s clear the calendar is already filling fast.
For viewing and listening, today’s videos range from a close look at the MING Uni 37.09 dive watch to a sweeping roundup of new releases from AUDEMARS PIGUET, BREITLING, IWC, and CHRISTOPHER WARD, plus a hard-nosed exposé on questionable authorized dealer behavior. The Scottish Watches podcast adds depth with a thoughtful conversation around Bark & Jack’s latest collaboration. Finally, the auction report zooms in on the GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL Senator Cosmopolite, a complicated world traveler currently sitting at a surprisingly low bid, making it one of those listings that’s either a gift or a temptation, depending on your self-control.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
Studio Underd0g Establishes The D0ghouse, Its New British Watchmaking Facility
Studio Underd0g has established a new British watchmaking facility called The D0ghouse, marking a significant milestone in its growth from a one-man operation to a thriving enterprise producing over 14,000 watches annually. The acquisition of the Horologium workshop, now renamed The D0ghouse, allows for greater control over production processes and scalability to meet increasing demand. Visitors will have the opportunity to experience the assembly of watches firsthand when the facility opens in May 2026, with priority registration available for attendees of British Watchmakers’ Day.
Watch Spotting: The Watches Of Super Bowl LX
The Super Bowl LX showcased not only thrilling football but also an impressive array of watches spotted among players and celebrities. The Seattle Seahawks triumphed over the New England Patriots in a game defined by strong defense and cultural moments. Notable timepieces included New England Patriots head coach Mike Vrabel’s white gold Rolex Yacht-Master II and former NFL player Larry Fitzgerald’s luxurious Patek Philippe. The halftime show featured Bad Bunny donning a new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in yellow gold, highlighting the blend of sports and pop culture.
Feature Time
“Collectors Are Helping Me Avoid Mistakes” — A Talk With Georges Kern On The House Of Brands
Georges Kern discusses the revival of his House of Brands, which includes Gallet, Breitling, and Universal Genève, during a challenging economic climate marked by inflation and declining consumer confidence. Despite these difficulties, Kern remains optimistic, highlighting significant innovations and partnerships, such as the NFL deal, that are set to boost the brands’ visibility and sales. The conversation reveals the strategic approach Kern is taking to avoid past mistakes and ensure the success of these brands, with an advisory board of collectors aiding in decision-making. Kern aims to create a distinct identity for Universal Genève, steering clear of traditional tropes, and instead embracing innovative strategies that promise to surprise the market in 2026.
Difference in Bracelet Types
The summary explores various types of watch bracelets, emphasizing their significance beyond mere functionality. It discusses the Oyster and Jubilee bracelets, both associated with Rolex, highlighting the Oyster’s sporty aesthetic and the Jubilee’s elegance and comfort. The Milanese mesh bracelet is noted for its versatility and comfort, while the Beads of Rice design combines practicality with classic elegance. Different bracelet types cater to various preferences and styles, demonstrating that there is no wrong choice when selecting a bracelet for a watch.
Arnold & Son: From Marine Chronometers to Constant-Force Tourbillons
Arnold & Son, a historic English watchmaker founded by John Arnold over 250 years ago, has made a remarkable resurgence since its revival in 1995. The brand is known for its in-house movements and adventurous designs that honor its rich heritage in precision timekeeping and marine chronometers. Arnold & Son continues to innovate with creations like the Constant Force Tourbillon and the Time Pyramid, blending historical significance with modern aesthetics. The legacy of John Arnold is further highlighted by his contributions to horology, particularly in the development of marine chronometers that became crucial for navigation during the Age of Exploration.
8 watches we spotted at the Super Bowl LX 2026
The Super Bowl LX showcased not only an exciting game but also a stunning display of watches worn by celebrities. Bad Bunny stole the spotlight with his Audemars Piguet Royal Oak featuring a malachite dial, while Jalen Hurts sported a classic Rolex Datejust that perfectly complemented his status as a “Super Bowl Legend.” Travis Scott made a statement with a vintage Seiko Calculator, highlighting a trend towards personal style over luxury, and Jay-Z impressed with a Patek Philippe Celestial Grand Complications that features an intricate sky chart. These timepieces not only reflected the personal styles of their wearers but also emphasized the intersection of sports and high fashion at one of the year’s biggest sporting events.
Opinion Time
According to Ariel: Luxury Watch Brands Should Widely Embrace Controlled Discounting
Luxury watch brand managers often view discounting as detrimental to their prestige, believing it undermines the luxury perception of their products. However, this entrenched mindset may overlook the potential benefits of controlled discounting—a strategy where discounts are built into the pricing structure. The resistance to discounting in the luxury watch sector is rooted in a culture that equates discounts with failure and a lack of desirability. The reality remains that consumers are more likely to purchase when they perceive value, which can be enhanced through controlled price discounting, ultimately suggesting that a more flexible pricing strategy could benefit both brands and their customers in the long run.
Perspective: Watch Partnership Number Four—Breitling Joins Aston Martin’s Failed Relationships
Breitling has recently been announced as Aston Martin’s new Official Watch Partner, marking the fourth such collaboration in a short span. Previous partnerships with Girard-Perregaux, Richard Mille, and Jaeger-LeCoultre all ended after relatively brief periods, raising questions about the sustainability of Aston Martin’s watch partnerships. The current partnership encompasses both Aston Martin’s Formula One team and their road cars, with Breitling branding prominently featured. Despite the impressive craftsmanship and marketing hype, there remains skepticism about whether this partnership will last beyond the typical five-year cycle, continuing a pattern of fleeting collaborations rather than enduring alliances.
The Latest Time
Citizen
Citizen Launch Attesa Shades of Red Ahead of Total Lunar Eclipse
Citizen has launched the limited edition “Attesa Shades of Red” series in celebration of the upcoming total lunar eclipse. The first model, the Worldtimer CC4077-71Z, features a dark red color inspired by the blood moon and a satellite-controlled quartz movement for exceptional accuracy, priced at approximately $2,025 and limited to 1,800 pieces. The second model, the Moonphase BY1005-73Z, is more thematically aligned with the eclipse, showcasing a moonphase subdial with a blood moon motif, priced at approximately $1,264 and limited to 2,200 pieces. Both models are made from lightweight Super Titanium and come with impressive specifications, including water resistance up to 100m and various functions like a perpetual calendar and power reserve indicator.
Ming
Introducing: Ming Debuts Its Integrated Bracelet Design With The 56.00 ‘Starfield’
Ming has introduced its new watch, the 56.00 ‘Starfield’, featuring an integrated bracelet design that enhances comfort and aesthetic appeal. This limited edition timepiece, with only 20 pieces available, showcases a polished 316L stainless steel case, a sapphire dial with a unique mosaic pattern, and innovative features like a tool-free link removal system and a micro-adjustment clasp. The watch’s striking design is complemented by a luminescent effect that creates a captivating star-like animation. Priced at approximately $21,840, it represents Ming’s commitment to innovative watchmaking and material research, positioning the brand as a leader in both style and functionality in the luxury watch market.
Introducing the Ming 56.00 Starfield, the Brand’s First Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch - Read More >
Praesidus
The Praesidus Jungle Field Automatic 38mm
The Praesidus Jungle Field Automatic 38mm is a modern interpretation of the military-inspired GG-W-113 US military specification, originally designed in 1967. This watch features a 38mm sandblasted 316L stainless steel case, designed to be lightweight and functional, with a double-domed sapphire crystal and a water resistance of 100 meters. It is powered by a Miyota 9039 automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve, emphasizing reliability and simplicity, making it ideal for field conditions. Retailing at $550, the Jungle Field Automatic aims to provide a practical and straightforward option for watch enthusiasts.
Tissot
Tissot PRC 100 Solar model expansion
Tissot has expanded its PRC 100 Solar collection with two new models, introducing an ice blue dial version in a 39mm all steel format and a two-tone option available in both 39mm and 34mm sizes. The pricing for the all steel model starts at approximately $510, while the two-tone variant is priced at approximately $555. These new editions maintain all features of the original models, including solar technology that harnesses both natural and artificial light for energy, ensuring the watches remain charged and functional even in low-light environments. With a quartz movement that boasts impressive power retention of up to 14 months in complete darkness, the watches are designed for durability and reliability.
Urwerk
Urwerk’s Reimagines Entry-Level UR-100V in Ceramic
Urwerk has unveiled the UR-100V “LightSpeed” Ceramic, a new iteration of its entry-level model, which features a unique ceramic composite made from fibreglass and carbon fibre. This material provides enhanced strength and a textured surface, making the watch both durable and visually appealing. The watch is powered by the UR 12.02 movement and features a double-layered case structure, with a titanium inner case nested within the ceramic composite outer shell. Limited to just 50 pieces, the UR-100V “LightSpeed” Ceramic is offered at a price of approximately $75,040, making it a unique addition to any watch collection.
Venezianico
Venezianico Release Redentore Arlecchino Carnival Limited Edition
The Venezianico Redentore Arlecchino Carnival Limited Edition is a wristwatch inspired by the iconic character Arlecchino from Italy’s commedia dell’arte, a theatrical form known for its stock characters and vibrant performances. Featuring a harlequin check style dial crafted from polished steel and colorful cold enamel, this watch embodies the chaos and vibrancy associated with the Venice carnival. Housed in a stainless steel case measuring 38mm in diameter, it is powered by the Miyota 9039 automatic movement and includes a solid caseback depicting Arlecchino. Limited to just 400 pieces, the watch is priced at approximately $1,045 and combines artistry with functionality.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Alpina
Alpina Alpiner Extreme Solarmetre
The Alpina Alpiner Extreme Solarmetre is a rugged solar-powered watch designed for adventurers. It features a well-thought-out dial that allows ample light to power its solar cells while maintaining a textured design available in multiple colors. The solar movement, AL-140 calibre, provides an impressive power reserve of 10 months, and it can recharge quickly with minimal light exposure, ensuring reliability in various conditions. Designed to be a dependable companion for outdoor activities, the Alpiner Extreme Solarmetre combines functionality with style, making it an excellent choice for those seeking a robust timepiece that can withstand the rigors of adventure.
Audemars Piguet
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked showcases a refined update on the iconic timepiece, debuting with a new calibre that allows for easy individual adjustments of calendar indications directly through the crown. This skeletonized version, crafted in titanium with palladium and rose gold accents, enhances the aesthetic appeal while revealing the intricate mechanisms usually hidden in traditional perpetual calendars. The innovative movement includes over 200 inward angles, a notable improvement over earlier versions, and introduces a unique assembly system that aids in precision. Overall, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked represents a blend of tradition and modernity, appealing to both collectors and enthusiasts alike.
MB&F
The MB&F LM101 EVO, The Compact Legacy Machine designed as a Daily Driver
The MB&F LM101 EVO is a refined version of the Legacy Machine collection, designed to be a practical daily wear watch while retaining the brand’s distinctive character. Unveiled for MB&F’s 20th anniversary, this model features a titanium case that enhances comfort and durability, along with a robust water-resistant rating and a screw-down crown. The LM101 EVO boasts a manually wound in-house movement that includes significant upgrades such as a 60-hour power reserve and a double hairspring for improved performance. With a price of CHF 62,000 and produced in limited quantities, the LM101 EVO represents a blend of luxury and practicality, appealing to those who appreciate MB&F’s innovative approach to horology.
Omega
Omega Seamaster 2541 Review: The Overlooked James Bond Dive Watch
The Omega Seamaster 2541 is often overlooked as a “Bond watch,” yet it offers a unique blend of nostalgia and practicality. With its quartz movement and 41mm case size, it provides a comfortable wearing experience, especially for those who prefer lighter timepieces. Despite being a quartz model, the Caliber 1438 movement has proven to be exceptionally reliable, keeping time better than many mechanical watches. Collectors often have divided opinions on quartz Seamasters, but this model stands out by offering practicality without compromising on design integrity, making it a solid choice for anyone seeking a dependable diver watch with cultural significance.
Read More >
Comparing Time
We Heart The Planet: An Eco-Conscious Valentine’s Day Gift Guide
The gift guide presents a curated selection of eco-conscious Valentine’s Day gifts, emphasizing the importance of love for both partners and the planet. It features various categories, including items for animal lovers, moon gazers, flower children, star gazers, and tree huggers, with notable products including G-SHOCK watches inspired by Galápagos wildlife, vintage watches from La Lune that encourage intergenerational gifting, and sustainable beauty products from CHANEL. The guide also highlights Tentree, a Canadian activewear brand that plants a tree for every item sold, along with luxury items like the Montblanc StarWalker fountain pen. This thoughtful approach to gifting encourages a deeper connection to the Earth while celebrating relationships.
Watches and Wonders 2026
Watches and Wonders Geneva will take place from April 14 to 20, 2026, featuring an expanded program that includes 11 new brands and a series of city-wide events designed to engage both industry professionals and the general public in the world of watchmaking. Organizers expect attendance from over 6,000 retailers, 1,600 international journalists, and approximately 15,000 invited guests, building on last year’s impressive turnout of nearly 55,000 visitors from 125 nationalities. A notable highlight for 2026 is the collaboration with the Montreux Jazz Festival, which will curate evening programming at a new venue, while the Watchmaking Village will provide workshops and career sessions. The redesigned LAB will focus on innovation and emerging technologies, featuring around 15 start-up projects, and online ticket sales opened on February 10, 2026.
Watching Time - Videos
Perfect Contemporary Dive Watch for Small to Medium Sized Wrists | MING Uni 37.09
The MING Uni 37.09 is highlighted as the perfect contemporary dive watch tailored for individuals with small to medium-sized wrists. It emphasizes a blend of functionality and style, making it an attractive option for watch enthusiasts. The design caters to those who appreciate a sophisticated timepiece that remains practical for underwater activities, showcasing features that ensure durability and reliability in various conditions. In addition to its aesthetic appeal, the MING Uni 37.09 is engineered to provide comfort and ease of wear.
NEW Christopher Ward X Bark & Jack: It’s Nearly Perfect
The video showcases a collaboration between two brands, Christopher Ward and Bark & Jack. It promises to deliver insights into a timepiece that is positioned as nearly flawless, likely highlighting its design, features, and overall appeal to watch enthusiasts. The presentation aims to emphasize the craftsmanship and innovative aspects of the watch, potentially providing a detailed look at specifications and functionalities that justify its near-perfect classification. The anticipation surrounding this release reflects the growing interest in luxury watches and collaborations within the industry.
Exposing How Corrupt Authorised Dealers Scam Watch Customers
The focus is on the alarming practices of authorized dealers who exploit customers looking to purchase watches. Many buyers fall victim to scams that compromise their trust and financial investment, as these dealers engage in dishonest tactics to inflate prices, misrepresent product availability, and pressure customers into hasty decisions. The video aims to shed light on these corrupt behaviors, providing viewers with insights and guidance on how to navigate the watch purchasing landscape more safely. By exposing these deceptive strategies, it encourages potential buyers to remain vigilant and informed to avoid being exploited by unscrupulous dealers.
Over 24 New Watches from Audemars Piguet, Breitling, IWC, Christopher Ward, and A Spicy News Rant!
A comprehensive overview of the latest offerings from prestigious watch brands such as Audemars Piguet, Breitling, IWC, and Christopher Ward is presented, highlighting over 24 new models. The discussion promises to explore the unique features and designs of these timepieces, catering to both enthusiasts and potential buyers. In addition to the watch reviews, a lively commentary segment is included, providing insights into current industry trends and news that may excite watch collectors. This engaging rant aims to inform viewers while also sparking discussions about the evolving landscape of luxury watches.
Talking Time - Podcasts
Scottish Watches Podcast #751 : Bark and Jack’s Adrian Barker Explains The Reasons Behind His Green Fifteen Limited Edition Watch - Scottish Watches
In the latest episode of the Scottish Watches Podcast, Adrian Barker from Bark & Jack discusses his collaboration with Christopher Ward to create the Green Fifteen limited edition watch. The conversation delves into various topics including creativity, content burnout, and the challenges of building a brand outside traditional platforms like YouTube. Adrian shares insights from the eighteen-month journey of designing the Green Fifteen, highlighting the intricate decisions regarding aesthetics, functionality, and reactions from the watch community. The Green Fifteen features a unique matte black dial with circular markers, a solid case back, and incorporates a Bark & Jack logo that is only visible under UV light.
Listen Now >
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee.com
[Monday’s auction watch, the 2025 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona “Baby LeMans” 40MM Black Dial White Gold Oyster Bracelet (126509) - was bid to $47,000 but did not meet its reserve. The watch has a list price of $54,400. - make an offer]
2024 Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite 44MM Silver Dial Textile Strap (1-89-02-01-05-61)
Auction Report: The World Traveler’s “Serious Person” Watch — Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite 1-89-02-01-05-61
If you’ve ever looked at a GMT watch and thought, “Cute, but what about the other 34 time zones I actually don’t visit?” the Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite was built for exactly that kind of ambition. This is the brand’s high-function travel flagship: a big 44mm rose gold case, a grained silver dial that’s doing a lot of work, and the signature Cosmopolite party trick—two time zones shown at once, with a time zone ring that covers 35 world time zones and color-codes the oddball half-hour and three-quarter-hour offsets. Glashütte Original also bakes in DST/STD logic so you’re not guessing whether a city is on summer time, and it rounds out the “I fly for a living (or cosplay it)” toolkit with Panorama Date and a power reserve display.
A quick bit of context helps explain why this model exists at all. The Senator Cosmopolite was conceived as a more complete answer to real-world travel than the typical two-click GMT: not just “another hour hand,” but a system that acknowledges how messy global time actually is (hello, 30- and 45-minute offsets) while keeping the dial legible enough to use. The underlying movement family is Glashütte Original’s in-house Calibre 89-02, a purpose-built travel caliber designed around the world-time/DST architecture and a long reserve (commonly cited at 72 hours in coverage of the model).
The seller’s description lines up with how these tend to trade: “very good condition,” full kit (box, extras, papers), and sized to an 8-inch wrist, which matters because this watch wears every bit of its 44mm. On the secondary market, the reference number shows a wide spread in asking prices, but the key takeaway is that the market for this specific rose-gold configuration is meaningfully below the published retail. Multiple US retail listings put the watch at $44,100 at retail, which is the number that tends to get cited as “new retail” for the 1-89-02-01-05-61.
Now for the part that actually determines what you should do before the hammer: what will someone realistically pay. On Chrono24, the same reference appears with pricing that ranges from the mid-$20Ks into the high-$30Ks depending on seller, location, and whether the listing is positioned as unworn/complete/certified. Importantly, there are visible listings around $23,500–$24,000 on the low end for this exact reference, while other asks cluster far higher. EveryWatch snapshots for this reference show “for sale” price points bouncing around the high-$20Ks/low-$30Ks and also into the upper-$30Ks, which reinforces that the ask spread is big and you don’t want to anchor on the highest numbers just because they exist. Even eBay listings for the same reference (often with papers dated 2024) tend to emphasize the $44,100 retail while floating their own pricing expectations, which is useful mainly as a reminder that sellers love retail numbers and buyers love transaction numbers.
Given the condition described (very good, not described as unworn), and assuming this is a standard full-set 2024 example without unusual provenance, the most defensible “fair” target range typically lives closer to the lower-to-mid part of the visible market than the top: think roughly the mid-$20Ks to low-$30Ks as the zone where the watch starts to make sense versus simply buying the cheapest reputable listing outright. The reason is straightforward: the watch’s retail is high, the model is niche (complicated travel watches are a smaller pool than sports Rolex, etc.), and buyers will demand a discount for size, precious-metal wear sensitivity, and servicing uncertainty. If the auction price pushes into the mid-$30Ks, you’re basically paying “retail-adjacent” money for a watch whose secondary liquidity generally doesn’t reward that optimism.
The auction ends late this afternoon at 5:40pm ET on Tuesday, February 10, 2026, which means you’re bidding into a weekday close—usually a good time for disciplined buyers, and a dangerous time for anyone who starts thinking in sunk-cost narratives. If you want the Cosmopolite because you actually travel and love the engineering, this is the sort of watch where buying pre-owned is the rational move. If you want it because it’s rose gold and complicated and you feel like “complicated rose gold” should automatically go up forever, this is where I gently recommend you pivot to a spreadsheet hobby instead.
Current bid: $9,800