BuyingTime Daily - December 8, 2026
Streaming horology, Rolex price hikes, rare independents, standout new releases, and a serious A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk auction—January 8 covers the full watch spectrum.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
January 8 delivers a broad, energetic snapshot of where watch culture is heading in 2026, balancing media, market moves, serious collecting philosophy, and a flood of genuinely interesting watches. The debut of the “Man of the Hour” documentary series brings independent watchmaking to a mainstream streaming audience, putting human stories behind the craft and reinforcing how much personality and narrative now matter alongside mechanics. At the other end of the spectrum, Rolex’s nearly 6 percent price hike sets the tone for another year of upward pressure at the top of the market, reminding collectors that scarcity, precious metal costs, and brand gravity continue to dictate pricing realities whether buyers like it or not.
On the high-complication front, Andersen Genève’s new rattrapante world timer is a reminder that artisanal watchmaking is alive and unapologetically exclusive, while the broader editorial and feature coverage makes a clear case for why independents are increasingly central to serious collections. From thoughtful reflections on curating with intention in 2026 to deeper arguments for owning at least one truly independent piece, the day’s features underline a shift away from hype chasing and toward meaning, relationships, and long-term satisfaction. Industry voices from TAG Heuer and Breitling reinforce that even large brands are leaning harder into engineering, innovation, and differentiation as luxury buyers become more selective.
New and reviewed watches span nearly every tier and taste, from Bulova’s Lunar New Year debut and Credor’s exquisite porcelain-dial Goldfeather to Sartory Billard’s icy winter fantasy and Seiko’s refined enamel-dial Presage. On the review side, highlights include Breguet’s celestial anniversary tourbillon, Moritz Grossmann’s deeply traditional perpetual calendar, a lightweight carbon-bracelet update from Luminox, and a playful yet capable revival from Zenith. All of it feeds into a larger trend story pointing toward smaller cases, smarter design, and watches that wear comfortably while still telling a compelling story.
The day wraps with a strong auction note, spotlighting the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk in pink gold, a modern mechanical digital icon that continues to feel intellectually serious and emotionally satisfying, especially if bidding remains disciplined. As a whole, today’s universe reinforces that 2026 is shaping up to be less about excess and more about clarity, craft, and choosing watches that genuinely earn their place on the wrist.
–Michael Wolf
News Time
Man of the Hour Discovery+ documentary series debuts in USA
“Man of the Hour,” an eight-part documentary series on Discovery+, follows independent watchmakers and explores the artistry and innovation behind modern horology. Hosted by Wei Koh, founder of Revolution magazine, it profiles maisons such as F.P. Journe, Chopard, and Louis Vuitton, with each episode centered on a different watchmaker’s story. The show aims to reveal the human side of contemporary watchmaking and why these creators matter to the broader culture of mechanical watches. A companion “After Hours” podcast will provide deeper conversations with featured watchmakers, and a second season is already in pre-production with plans to include more major Swiss brands.
New Year, Higher Prices: Rolex Hikes Watch Prices By Nearly 6%
Yet we found one more Rolex price hike story: Rolex has implemented a price increase of nearly 6% for 2026, extending its long-running habit of annual hikes that typically land between 3% and 4%. Rising gold costs play a major role, with models like the yellow gold Daytona jumping from €42,800 to €51,600, and staples such as the Submariner and Oyster Perpetual also seeing meaningful increases. These moves are part of Rolex’s broader strategy to reinforce scarcity, exclusivity, and perceived value in a still-robust luxury watch market. While some buyers may balk, many enthusiasts accept the adjustment as part of the cost of owning a status-defining Rolex.
Andersen Genève’s World Time Gains a Split Seconds Upgrade
Andersen Genève’s new Rattrapante Mondiale fuses a hand-crafted Cottier-style world time complication with the Venus 179 split-seconds chronograph movement. The watch uses a compact two-level world time display and a left-handed case design, delivering both technical intrigue and a distinctive wrist presence. Its solid 18k white gold dial with dark blue enamel markings nods to mid-century high watchmaking, while the 38.8 mm diameter and sub‑12 mm thickness keep the profile elegant for such a complex piece. Limited to just eight examples and priced at CHF 184,000, it targets collectors who prize artisanal finishing and rare, mechanically dense complications.
Feature Time
Inside the Watch Box: Collecting Goals for 2026
Over the past year, the focus of collecting has shifted toward independent watch brands and away from predictable mainstream releases. Discovering pieces from makers like Ming and Otsuka Lotec has expanded the collection, but also brought some guilt over impulse buys and trend-following. Building relationships with the people behind these independents has become as important as acquiring the watches themselves. Looking ahead to 2026, the goal is to curate more intentionally, even if it means selling some current pieces to favor a smaller, more timeless collection.
Why Every Serious Watch Collector Needs an Independent in 2026
In 2026, independent watchmakers offer one of the most compelling opportunities for serious collectors, especially as mainstream luxury prices and scarcity continue to climb. Brands like Greubel Forsey, F.P. Journe, De Bethune, and Ferdinand Berthoud deliver low-production, high-craftsmanship pieces that can match or surpass the “Holy Trinity” in finishing and technical innovation. Younger collectors are increasingly drawn to these independents for their authenticity and engineering substance rather than just brand heritage. While liquidity can be thinner, those focused on personal enjoyment rather than flipping can access world-class horology at relatively better value.
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What Even Is A Watch Anyway? Asks split watches
Ed Margulies of Split Watches questions what a watch should be in an age dominated by smartphones and smartwatches. He argues that mechanical watches have evolved into carriers of memories, stories, and personal identity rather than mere time-telling tools. Split Watches leans into that idea with contemporary materials and a distinctive automatic chronograph meant to spark reflection and conversation. Each watch sold also funds an hour of therapy for children via the Anna Freud charity, weaving mental health advocacy directly into the brand’s mission.
How a Timeless Piece Completes A Collection
A mid‑century Swiss gold watch, from makers like Omega or Patek Philippe, can serve as the quiet cornerstone of a collection. These pieces bring proportion, finishing, and understated elegance that flatter tailored clothing without shouting for attention. Choosing the right example means weighing case size, originality, condition, and provenance, along with a strap that suits the wearer’s lifestyle. When thoughtfully selected, a vintage gold watch becomes a long-term companion that completes a wardrobe and tells a story beyond trends.
THE BIG INTERVIEW: TAG Heuer CEO Antoine Pin
TAG Heuer CEO Antoine Pin outlines a strategy that leans heavily into innovation and technology rather than resting on heritage alone. He highlights the TH-LAB research center as a showcase for the brand’s capabilities in advanced materials, movement design, and manufacturing techniques. Models such as the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1 are positioned as proof that TAG Heuer can play at the highest end of technical watchmaking. In a tougher luxury market, Pin argues that inspiring, engineering-led products are essential to keep TAG Heuer relevant and desirable.
Smaller, Stranger, Smarter: Watch Trend Predictions For 2026
Watch trends for 2026 point toward more compact, versatile, and inventive designs. Case sizes are expected to gravitate toward the 36–38 mm range as wearers prioritize comfort and proportion. Jewelry watches and multi‑wear concepts will push pieces to double as accessories that shift easily between contexts, while new materials and shock-resistant constructions will extend durability and performance. At the same time, a neo‑vintage wave fueled by key anniversaries will keep collectors interested in designs that echo the past while integrating modern tech.
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Georges Kern answers tough Breitling questions in Dubai
Breitling CEO Georges Kern uses his Dubai Watch Week interview to reaffirm the brand’s aviation roots while defending a broader, bolder vision. He points to lines like the Navitimer, Classic AVI, and Avenger as proof that pilot DNA remains intact, even as Breitling expands its design language and price structure. Kern also reveals a multi‑brand strategy, including the launch of Gallet for entry‑luxury buyers and a repositioned Universal Genève for a different clientele. With higher average prices and ambitious growth targets, he invites skeptics to visit Breitling boutiques and judge the brand’s evolution firsthand.
Editorial Time
Prices, Volumes, And Passion: The Business Of Watches In 2025 And What To Expect In 2026
The watch industry endured its toughest year in a decade in 2025, pressured by geopolitics, currency swings, and more cautious consumer behavior. Brands responded with sharp price increases to protect margins, even as mainstream makers confronted “luxury fatigue” and a saturated release calendar. Top names like Rolex and Audemars Piguet remained resilient, while the secondary market began stabilizing after earlier declines and auctions continued to prove demand for rare, exceptional pieces. Heading into 2026, the sector must balance heritage with fresh ideas, target younger buyers, and tap new markets such as emerging economies to sustain growth.
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Cartier Makes The Case for Titanium
The Cartier Santos story starts with Alberto Santos-Dumont, whose need to read the time in flight sparked one of the first true pilot’s watches and, later, the iconic Santos de Cartier. The 1978 steel-and-gold Santos crystallized this heritage into a modern luxury object, with its integrated bracelet and screws becoming a design signature of an entire era. Today’s titanium Santos builds on that legacy by trading heft for lightness and a matte, contemporary finish while preserving the recognizably Cartier case and bracelet geometry. New executions, including a black dial with luminous markers, show how the design can evolve materially and functionally without losing its historic character.
The Next Frontier: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller introduces a sculptural integrated-case design and the new caliber 7135, a high‑beat 5 Hz movement featuring the energy‑efficient Dynapulse escapement and backed by 32 patents. With its honeycomb dial, polished bezel, and transparent caseback, the watch bridges Rolex’s classic aesthetic with a far more technical, contemporary presentation. Positioned between the Datejust and Day‑Date, it is meant to answer modern tastes for integrated bracelets and everyday luxury while preserving Rolex’s core design codes. A waterproof Oyster case, Flat Jubilee bracelet, and 66‑hour power reserve complete a package that signals where Rolex wants to push its technical and stylistic frontier next.
The Latest Time
Bulova
Bulova Prances Into Chinese New Year With First-Ever Lunar Watch
Bulova’s first Lunar watch, the Year of the Horse Super Seville, celebrates Chinese New Year 2026 with a vivid red and gold dial depicting a rearing horse as a symbol of vitality and perseverance. The gold-tone stainless steel case, coin-edge bezel, and three-row bracelet lean into a retro, Seville-style aesthetic, while the limited run of 888 pieces nods to good fortune. Inside, Bulova’s Precisionist movement delivers high accuracy and a smooth sweeping seconds hand that mimics mechanical motion. The watch is priced at $895 USD, blending cultural storytelling, technical refinement, and strong value for collectors.
Credor
New: Credor Goldfeather Imari Nabeshima Porcelain Dial Limited :
Credor’s Goldfeather Imari Nabeshima Porcelain Dial Limited Edition pairs a slim stainless steel case with a dial crafted by the famed Hataman Touen kiln. The porcelain dial transitions from translucent white at the center to deep cobalt blue at the edge, decorated with feather motifs that showcase high-end Japanese artistry. Beneath the surface, the ultra‑thin Caliber 6890 mechanical movement, only 1.98mm thick, reflects Credor’s focus on refined engineering and dress-watch elegance. Limited to 60 pieces and priced at €15,000 (about $17,500 USD), it is positioned as a rare fusion of traditional craft and modern haute horlogerie.
Sartory Billard
This Wintry Watch’s Iced-Over Dial Gives Grand Seiko a Run for Its Money
The Sartory Billard SB04-E Winter Edition 2026 stands out with a three-dimensional snowflake dial that fades from ice blue to snow white, finished in clear lacquer to evoke a frozen lake. Super‑LumiNova indices and diamond‑cut alpha hands maintain excellent legibility against the textured, frosty backdrop. The 39.5mm stainless steel case, 100 meters of water resistance, and familiar SB04-E architecture keep it practical despite the artistic execution. Limited to 26 pieces, it is priced at €3,100 (about $3,620 USD) on a white rubber strap and €3,500 (about $4,090 USD) on a steel bracelet, making it a highly collectible niche release.
Seiko
The New Tonneau-Shaped Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB537 with Enamel Dial
The Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB537 introduces a tonneau-shaped case that blends vintage charm with modern wrist presence, measuring 46mm by 35.9mm with a dual‑curved sapphire crystal. Its enamel dial, produced under master artisan supervision, features Roman numerals, a railway minute track, and blued hands for a formal, dressy look. Powered by the in‑house 6R5H movement, it offers a 72‑hour power reserve and a 24‑hour sub‑dial, paired with a five‑row stainless steel bracelet to complete the refined package. Scheduled for February 2026, it is priced at €1,650 (about $1,930 USD), positioning it as a relatively accessible entry into artisanal enamel dial work.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Breguet
A Closer Look at the Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255
The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 marks the brand’s 250th anniversary with its first flying tourbillon, visually suspended over a blue aventurine enamel dial that evokes a starry night sky. Its 38mm 18k gold case, fluted caseband, and hand‑guilloché details showcase Breguet’s classical design language, while the manually wound movement delivers a 50‑hour power reserve. The architecture hides much of the movement beneath beautifully decorated bridges, emphasizing both mystery and craftsmanship on the wrist. Limited to just 50 pieces and priced at CHF 190,000, it is positioned as an exclusive expression of Breguet’s historical ties to astronomy and high complications.
Luminox
The Luminox Navy SEAL 3500 Series Gets A Carbonox Bracelet
The latest Luminox Navy SEAL 3500 update swaps the traditional strap for a lightweight three‑link Carbonox bracelet, keeping the watch’s tactical 45mm Carbonox case and 200‑meter water resistance intact. Carbonox construction keeps the total weight to just 93 grams, while tritium gas‑filled tubes ensure constant low‑light visibility for mission‑ready legibility. The overall design remains unapologetically tool‑like, with a matte black finish and simple clasp that favors practicality over luxury flourishes. Priced at $675 USD for the watch (and $63 USD for the standalone bracelet), it offers an accessible entry into modern carbon‑case field watches.
Moritz Grossmann
Hands-On: Experiencing the Moritz Grossmann Perpetual Calendar
The Moritz Grossmann Perpetual Calendar is a classically proportioned 41mm dress watch offered in rose gold or platinum, with a richly detailed dial that integrates a distinctive date display and a refined moon phase. Its fluted crown, recessed correctors, and carefully layered textures underscore the brand’s obsessive attention to traditional German finishing. Inside, the hand‑wound calibre 101.13 combines a perpetual calendar module with immaculate decoration, from hand‑engraved elements to elaborate striping and anglage. Priced at EUR 83,000 in rose gold and EUR 91,800 in platinum, it targets collectors who value both calendar complexity and Glashütte‑style craftsmanship at the very top tier.
Temporal Works
Hands-On: The Temporal Works Series A
The Temporal Works Series A, created by Mark Cho and Elliot Hammer, channels the elegance of the vintage Patek Philippe ref. 565 into a 37mm dress watch made with high‑grade Japanese manufacturing. Its polished, curved case frames sector and lacquered red “Fortune” dials that lean into mid‑century aesthetics while remaining distinctly modern on the wrist. Power comes from a Sellita SW210‑1 D4 manual‑wind movement with a 42‑hour power reserve and tasteful finishing, including Côtes de Genève. Priced at $2,500 with a Jean Rousseau calf leather strap and an optional Staib mesh bracelet, the Series A offers thoughtful design and strong execution at an approachable enthusiast price.
Zenith
The Zenith Defy Revival keeps the summer vibes going
The Zenith Defy Revival reinterprets a 1969 diver in a compact 37mm steel case, but adds punch with a vivid orange bezel and dial contrasted by matte black elements. Beneath the playful colors is an Elite 670 automatic movement offering a 50‑hour power reserve and robust 600‑meter water resistance, lending real tool‑watch credibility. On the wrist, it feels both subtle in size and loud in personality, drawing comments and curiosity thanks to its unapologetically retro aesthetic. Priced at £7,000, it aims at collectors who want serious specs wrapped in a bold, early‑’70s design statement.
Comparing Time
Top Watch Nerd Watches We’ve Reviewed: Cult Picks You Rarely Hear About
This comparison gathers a group of under‑the‑radar watches that tend to be beloved by deep‑diving enthusiasts rather than mainstream buyers. Pieces like the Citizen Ana‑Digi Temp and “Baby” Dreadnought PRS‑52 highlight quirky functionality, rugged builds, and distinctive aesthetics that reward more obsessive collectors. The CWC Mellor 72 and Baltic MR01 bring military‑inspired practicality and charming vintage‑style design into the mix, while the Mondaine Stop2Go and titanium Halios Seaforth show how playful details and lightweight comfort can stand out on the wrist. Together, they illustrate how thoughtful design, characterful movements, and strong user experience can make “nerd watches” as compelling as headline luxury releases.
Watching Time
Breitling CEO Georges Kern answers the tough questions
In this video, Breitling CEO Georges Kern tackles direct questions about the brand’s direction, relevance, and position in a crowded luxury watch market. He explains how Breitling balances its aviation heritage with contemporary design and marketing, and why innovation and storytelling are central to the brand’s current strategy. Kern also discusses how the company engages with new generations of enthusiasts while maintaining credibility with long-time collectors. The interview offers an unusually transparent look at how a major Swiss brand is thinking about its future.
These Next-Level Watches Just Dropped!
This launch video teases a new collection of watches designed with bold styling and modern, lifestyle‑oriented features. Rather than diving deep into specs, the piece focuses on mood, energy, and how these watches are meant to stand out in everyday wear. The release, tied to January 8, 2026, is framed as a step up for viewers who want something more distinctive than a basic daily beater. It’s a hype‑driven introduction that sets the stage for more detailed coverage to come.
Asking what watches people are wearing in Miami - Ep.113 Street Interview
This street interview episode roams Miami to ask people what watches they are wearing and why they chose them. The conversations surface a wide mix of pieces, from fashion watches to serious mechanicals, highlighting how personal taste, lifestyle, and budget shape wrist choices. Along the way, you get snapshots of Miami’s culture and style, with watches serving as a lens into people’s identities. It’s informal, visual, and trend‑spotting all at once.
What To Know Before You Buy IWC
This video breaks down the key considerations before purchasing an IWC, starting with the brand’s history and reputation for precise engineering and clean design. It walks through major model families and typical use cases, helping viewers match their preferences in size, style, and complications to the right line. The presenter also emphasizes doing due diligence on authenticity, warranties, and after‑sales service so buyers avoid common pitfalls. It’s framed as a practical primer for anyone contemplating their first—or next—IWC.
Talking Time
Hairspring
This episode looks back at the 2025 auction season, calling out standout wins, disappointments, and some watches the hosts wish they had managed to buy. Erik and Max walk through “value buys,” surprising hammer prices, and problem pieces they would avoid, giving context for how the market behaved across the year. They also highlight notable chronographs in a recurring “Only Wrist” segment, tying specific references to broader collecting themes. The result is a compact market recap that helps listeners understand where enthusiasm and money really flowed in 2025.
Listen Now >
The Business of Watches Podcast: Horologer Ming Executives Ming Thein And Praneeth Rajsingh Talk Design, Manufacturing, Pricing, And More
On this episode of The Business of Watches, Ming Thein and Praneeth Rajsingh dive into how Horologer Ming approaches design, engineering, and the hard financial realities of being a small independent brand. They explain the development of their titanium, 3D‑printed Polymesh bracelet, outlining what it takes to bring unconventional hardware into production. The conversation also covers funding models, an upcoming more value‑oriented sub‑brand, and lessons from Dubai Watch Week. Along the way, they touch on CAD, the Alternative Horological Alliance, and the broader pressures shaping modern watchmaking.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Wednesday’s auction watch, the Louis Moinet Mecanograph New York L.E. 45MM Artwork Dial Leather Strap (LM-31.20.NY)- was bid to only $6,250 but did not meet its reserve. The watch has a list price of $29,900 - make an offer]
2023 A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk 41.9MM Black Dial Aftermarket Leather Strap (142.031)
Auction Report: 2023 A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk “Black Dial” Ref. 142.031 — Mechanical Digital, Modern Lange, and a Lot of Wrist Presence
If you want the idea of a digital watch but you also want it to be unapologetically mechanical (and unapologetically German), the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is still the category killer. This listing is for the pink-gold, black-dial Zeitwerk ref. 142.031 (41.9mm) with papers dated September 9, 2023, described by the seller as very good condition and fitted on an aftermarket leather strap. The auction ends Thursday, January 8, 2026 at 10:36 PM.
The 142.031 is part of the “new generation” Zeitwerk—still instantly recognizable by its digitally jumping hours and minutes, but engineered to be more wearable and more practical than the earliest versions. A. Lange & Söhne notes the update includes a refined manufacture movement and a 72-hour power reserve, a meaningful improvement for a watch that performs a very energy-intensive minute jump every sixty seconds. Independent reference sources attribute this generation to the manufacture calibre L043.5 (manual wind), again with 72 hours of reserve. The case is 750 pink gold, and the “black” dial is actually crafted from solid silver treated to achieve that deep, light-absorbing look that makes the jumping numerals read like a high-end instrument panel rather than a novelty.
The reason the Zeitwerk matters—beyond the visuals—is the mechanism that makes the digital display credible in a high watchmaking sense. The instantaneous jump of two large discs (minutes) plus the hour disc requires the watch to store and release energy in controlled bursts, and that’s where the Zeitwerk’s remontoir / constant-force architecture becomes the star of the show. Phillips’ collector guide explains how the one-minute remontoir meters energy so the discs can jump precisely without the amplitude roller-coaster that would otherwise come with a big once-per-minute energy dump. A. Lange & Söhne similarly frames the Zeitwerk as a mechanically driven digital-display watch built around constant-force principles intended to keep delivery consistent across the wind state. Put differently: this isn’t “digital” as a vibe; it’s digital as a mechanical problem solved with a very Lange answer.
On the wrist, the 142.031 has a reputation for feeling more nuanced than photos suggest. The case is modern Lange—substantial, finely contoured, and dense in precious metal—while the dial is almost architectural, with that central time bridge and the crisp “windows” for the numerals. Hodinkee’s hands-on review of the ref. 142.031 leans into the fact that the newest generation doesn’t shout about its changes, but it wears and behaves like a thoughtfully iterated instrument rather than a reboot. If you’re shopping this watch at auction, that’s a good sign: it means the value proposition is not dependent on hype cycles or a one-season design trick.
On value, Zeitwerk pricing tends to cluster based on generation, metal, and completeness of set. Public asking prices for the 142.031 commonly appear around the mid-$80,000s to low-$110,000s USD range depending on condition, location, and whether it’s a full set; Chrono24 listings and aggregates show multiple examples in roughly that band. Broader market tracking for the Zeitwerk line also suggests the family generally trades in the high five figures to low six figures depending on variant. Auction outcomes can, of course, land below dealer asks—especially if the listing is missing original strap hardware, deployant, or if service history is unclear—so the “right” bid is usually less about a single magic number and more about whether the watch is complete, crisp, and recently checked.
A few practical notes given this specific listing: the aftermarket strap is not a deal-breaker (many collectors rotate straps anyway), but it does slightly shift the “completeness” conversation—particularly if the original A. Lange & Söhne strap and buckle/deployant are absent, because replacing OEM accessories can be expensive and annoyingly slow. Papers dated September 9, 2023 are a meaningful positive, and “very good” condition is encouraging, but this is the kind of watch where you want clear photos (or a clear condition report) of the crystal, case flanks, and the dial furniture—because any mishap around the digital apertures or alignment is more consequential than a tiny mark on a typical three-hander. If you can confirm strong, crisp minute jumps; clean pusher/crown action; and no evidence of moisture or dial disturbance, you’re looking at one of the most conceptually important modern watches A. Lange & Söhne makes, in what many consider its most dramatic (and most legible) configuration.
Net-net: the 142.031 is “serious” in the way collectors mean it—innovative, not gimmicky; complicated, not fussy; visually bold, yet unmistakably Lange. If the bidding stays rational, this is exactly the kind of modern high horology purchase that still feels defensible the morning after the auction ends.
Current bid: $30,000