BuyingTime Daily - December 5, 2025
Polacheck’s opens a new Patek salon, Dubai Watch Week delivers sparks, New York auctions heat up, and fresh releases from Rado, Ressence, and Seiko light the way.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe — December 5, 2025
The watch world eased into Friday with the kind of eclectic mix only December can deliver. The headline belonged to Polacheck’s, the fourth-generation Calabasas jeweler that just opened a dedicated Patek Philippe showroom—an unambiguous signal that brick-and-mortar prestige retail is not just alive but thriving in certain zip codes. Surrounded by Rolex, Breitling, Cartier, and a century of family history, the new Patek salon feels like both a natural evolution and a quiet flex in a year when luxury retail has been anything but predictable.
Meanwhile, at Dubai Watch Week, WatchPro got into a spirited back-and-forth with Nico Leonard, all while trying to keep track of the fair’s parade of stories.
Today’s deep dive revisited Minerva’s second life under Montblanc after Richemont’s 2006 acquisition, reminding us that the tiny Villeret manufacture continues to punch above its weight. The blend of Minerva DNA with Montblanc modernity still hits, especially in pieces like the Villeret and Exo Tourbillon Chronograph. The newer 1858 Split Second Chronograph suggests this marriage has plenty of creative mileage left.
Auction season is revving up in New York, where Phillips, Sotheby’s, and Christie’s are ready to cap off 2025 with catalogs stuffed full of narrative bait. Phillips brings a Francis Ford Coppola prototype and serial-number-one Dufour pieces; Sotheby’s fields the Robert Olmsted collection; and Christie’s counters with unique Patek Philippe references and neon-bright Rolex Daytonas. Tariffs may be casting a long shadow over the market, but the end-of-year sales clearly didn’t get the memo.
Design also had its moment as Rado unveiled the DiaStar Original x Tej Chauhan in Miami. It combines Ceramos material wizardry with Chauhan’s emotive industrial approach, right down to a custom day-date font. It’s a fresh spin on a 1962 classic that manages to feel both tactile and futuristic. And in essay land, a thoughtful critique argued that regional editions using Eastern Arabic numerals need more cultural depth, pointing to Bulgari’s latest Octo Finissimo collaboration as a rare example that gets it right.
Collectors got a profile in Christian Lawrence, whose journey from Swatch beginnings to the Ulysse Nardin Freak and beyond reflects a bias toward complication and character over hype. His future sights: a steel sports Rolex, a gold dress watch, and the F.P. Journe Octa Lune as the distant grail.
Events kept the momentum going with TAG Heuer launching its Fragment-designed Carrera at Miami Art Basel—a minimalist, glassbox-inspired limited edition powered by the TH20-00. The guest list was as polished as the bracelet, naturally. Bonhams also previewed its New York sale with a spread ranging from a cloisonné-enamel Patek World Time to Rolex enamel dials and an Elvis-gifted Mathey-Tissot. If you like celebrity provenance with your catalog, this one’s for you.
New releases continued pouring in: Awake’s Kill Bill-themed Sơn Mài “Deadly Watch,” Bühlmann’s ultra-technical Decompression 02 diver, Done Watches’ anniversary chronograph, Louis Erard’s regulator collaboration, Pöhlmann-Bresan’s guilloché masterpiece with Jochen Benzinger, and two appearances from Ressence with the Marc Newson–designed Type 3 variations. Seiko checked in with a “Tranquil Teal” Prospex diver, while Temporal Works debuted its first models under Mark Cho’s new brand with tailoring-inspired dials and proportions.
Reviews brought thoughtful wrist time with Czapek’s digital-style Time Jumper, Panerai’s bronze Luminor Marina PAM01678, and a closer look at the new Ressence x Marc Newson Type 3 MN—each piece finding its own way to bend a familiar formula.
In auction news closer to home, Thursday’s Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet peaked at $6,000 without meeting reserve—translation: make an offer. And tomorrow, the spotlight turns to the Chronoswiss Opus Open Chronograph CH 7523 S, a mechanically exuberant skeleton chronograph that practically invented its own micro-category. Current bid sits at $2,500, with our full Auction Report—“Skeleton Pioneer On The Block”—laying out the case for why this 38mm machine-room-on-the-wrist deserves a closer look before Saturday’s 4:56 p.m. close.
It’s December, the calendar is crowded, and the watch universe is humming. Exactly how we like it. -Michael Wolf
News Time
Polacheck’s opens Patek Philippe showroom
Polacheck’s, a fourth-generation family jeweler in Calabasas, California, has opened a dedicated Patek Philippe showroom adjacent to its flagship multibrand store. Founded in 1921 and serving the San Fernando Valley since 1988, Polacheck’s already carries marquee names like Rolex, Breitling, and Cartier. The new space underscores the retailer’s long-standing commitment to craft and the enduring relationships it has cultivated over a century. Alongside the Patek salon, the store continues to showcase its own fine jewelry and brands such as Picchioti and Roberto Coin.
WatchPro spars with Nico Leonard at Dubai Watch Week
At Dubai Watch Week, WatchPro held a lively exchange with Nico Leonard while surveying the week’s biggest stories and launches. Highlights included Polacheck’s new Patek Philippe showroom, a Tiffany co‑signed Rolex headed to auction, and TAG Heuer’s Fragment collaboration at Miami Art Basel. New releases from Vacheron Constantin and Zenith added color to the fair, reflecting a broader push for creativity across the industry. The roundup also touched on brand initiatives, museum‑style exhibitions, and politics intersecting with luxury as Swiss lawmakers pressed for scrutiny of a Rolex gift to President Trump.
Feature Time
A Deep Dive Into Minerva In The Montblanc Era
Richemont’s 2006 acquisition of Minerva integrated the storied 1858 manufacture into Montblanc’s Movement and Innovation Excellence Center in Villeret. The focus remains on artisanal quality and exclusive, hand‑finished calibers that blend Minerva’s historic design language with Montblanc’s modern aesthetic. Flagship creations like the Villeret line and the Exo Tourbillon Chronograph exemplify this tradition‑meets‑innovation approach. Recent highlights, including the 1858 Split Second Chronograph, point to a promising future of expanded complications and thoughtful design.
Auctions: Previewing The Phillips, Sotheby’s, And Christie’s End-Of-Year New York Auctions
New York’s year‑end sales bring marquee catalogs from Phillips, Sotheby’s, and Christie’s, despite a 2025 market shaped by tariff headwinds. Phillips leads with a Francis Ford Coppola prototype and serial‑number‑one Dufour pieces, while Sotheby’s presents the historically rich Robert Olmsted collection. Christie’s counters with unique Patek Philippe references and vibrant Rolex Daytonas. The calendar promises record‑chasing lots and thematic auctions that underscore the market’s resilience and depth.
Design in motion with Rado and Tej Chauhan
Rado’s DiaStar Original x Tej Chauhan debuts during Miami Beach’s Untitled Art, fusing innovative materials with emotive industrial design. A gold‑tone PVD Ceramos bezel frames a sculptural matte black dial, while a custom day‑date font expresses Chauhan’s narrative approach. Beneath the design, an automatic movement with an 80‑hour power reserve ensures everyday practicality. The result honors the 1962 DiaStar’s legacy while inviting a personal, tactile connection to the object.
Essays: On Eastern Arabic Numerals And Why We Need More Regional Releases Like Bulgari’s Newest Octo Finissimo
This essay argues that many “regional” editions rely on superficial cues, such as Eastern Arabic numerals, without engaging meaningfully with local culture. It highlights the Middle East’s deep horological heritage and calls for designs that reflect genuine cultural narratives. Bulgari’s Mattar Bin Lahej collaboration is held up as a stronger model, integrating regional art and context into the Octo Finissimo. The piece urges brands to embrace thoughtful creativity to build authentic bonds with collectors.
Real Watch Collectors: Christian Lawrence
Christian Lawrence’s collecting journey began with a chronograph Swatch and grew into a passion for mechanical ingenuity. Acquiring the Ulysse Nardin Freak marked a turning point, as he prioritized unique complications over trends. Even sales he sometimes regrets, like a Submariner Bluesy, inform an eclectic, personal collection. Looking forward, he eyes a steel sports Rolex, a gold dress piece, and ultimately the F.P. Journe Octa Lune as a grail.
Event Time
TAG Heuer launches fragment collab Carrera at Miami Art Basel
TAG Heuer unveiled its third collaboration with fragment at Miami Art Basel, introducing a limited Carrera Chronograph that revives historic “glassbox” styling with a minimalist black opaline dial and light grey tachymeter bezel. Designed with Hiroshi Fujiwara, the 500‑piece edition balances vintage cues and modern restraint, powered by the in‑house TH20‑00 visible through a sapphire caseback. The launch, co‑hosted by Fujiwara and TAG Heuer CMO George Ciz, drew a celebrity crowd and underscored the partnership’s focus on precise, story‑driven details. The alternating polished and brushed bracelet completes the clean, cohesive look.
Tiffany co-signed Rolex and Elvis-gifted Mathey-Tissot headline Bonham’s New York auction
Bonhams’ New York Fine Watches: Icons and Masterpieces sale features 107 lots, headlined by a Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5131R‑001 with cloisonné enamel and a map of America, Asia, and Oceania. Highlights span vintage Patek world timers, enamel‑dial Rolexes, and a personalized Mathey‑Tissot gifted by Elvis Presley, alongside a single‑owner trove of over 30 notable Omegas. Standout pieces include a 1967 Omega Speedmaster “Ed White Soleil Dial,” rare Rolex cloisonné enamel watches, and a Tiffany‑stamped Datejust from circa 1979. Online bidding runs through December 9, with estimates that reflect the breadth and historical depth of the catalog.
The Latest Time
Awake
Awake Sơn Mài “The Deadly Watch”
Awake unveils a Kill Bill–inspired limited edition of 88 pieces with a smoky yellow dial and hand‑applied red “blood” splatters. The polished, pebble-like 39 mm case uses recycled 316L steel, and the LJP G101 automatic offers a 68‑hour power reserve. Details like sword‑evoking lumed hands and sapphire crystal reinforce the cinematic theme. Price: €1,650 plus tax.
Bühlmann
The Ultra-Technical Bühlmann Decompression 02 Dive Watch
Built for professional diving, the Decompression 02 integrates Albert Bühlmann’s decompression algorithm, 17 dive profiles, and a “fly‑no‑fly” indicator. A robust steel case with three crowns and a helium escape valve supports 575 m water resistance and a twin safety bezel for tracking dive time and stops. The SW‑300 movement delivers a minimum 50‑hour reserve. Limited to 575 pieces. Price: CHF 3,990.
DONE
Done Watches Mechanica Chrono Nine in Ten
Done marks its tenth anniversary with an openworked 40 mm chronograph featuring a sapphire dial and LJP L111 automatic movement. The design blends vintage‑chronograph cues with modern detailing, including a tachymeter scale and skeletonized date wheel. It offers 100 m water resistance and ships on FKM rubber or a bracelet. Pre‑order price: CHF 3,691.
Louis Erard
Le Régulateur, Reinvented Yet Again
Louis Erard teams with Worn & Wound on a 39 mm regulator with a layered, minimalist dial and elevated central minutes. Powering the watch is the Sellita SW266‑1 with regulator module, offering 38 hours of reserve and 50 m of water resistance. Limited to 99 pieces with initial availability at Windup Watch Shop. Price: US$4,990 excluding taxes.
Pöhlmann-Bresan
Indies Pöhlmann-Bresan Team up with Jochen Benzinger For a Superb Unique Piece
The German duo refines its Prestige model with Benzinger’s hand‑guilloché craft, adding an 18k white‑gold bezel and a silver dial with cobalt center and mother‑of‑pearl accents. A hand‑wound JU26‑01 movement with open bridges, stop‑seconds, and extensive hand‑finishing anchors the piece. The one‑off creation has already been allocated, emphasizing its singular artisanal appeal.
Ressence
Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson Edition Embraces Industrial Design
Ressence and Marc Newson present a greyscale Type 3 accented with high‑visibility yellow, evoking industrial signage. The ROCS display uses rotating discs within an oil‑filled chamber for remarkable visual depth, while an ETA 2824/2 base provides a 36‑hour reserve. Limited to 80 pieces in titanium with 10 m water resistance. Price: CHF 46,000.
Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson, A Meeting of Two Design Worlds - Read More >
Seiko
Seiko’s New Dive Watch Borrows a Page from the Brand’s High-End Sibling
This Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver’s “Save the Ocean” Limited Edition features a “Tranquil Teal” sunburst dial, matte gray bezel, and a new highly adjustable clasp. The 40 mm steel case offers 300 m water resistance and the Cal. 6R55 with a 3‑day reserve. Limited to 4,000 pieces, it blends elevated aesthetics with everyday dive functionality. Price: $1,400.
Temporal Works
Introducing Temporal Works, a New Brand from the Armoury’s Mark Cho
Series A debuts with a 37 mm monobloc steel case, fountain‑pen‑inspired hands, and dial options spanning oversized sector to the contemporary Fortune Dial. The Sellita SW210‑1 provides a 42‑hour reserve, paired with a Jean Rousseau leather strap and optional mesh bracelet. The design channels classic tailoring into a compact, elegant wristwatch. Price: $2,500.
Introducing the Temporal Works Series A - Read More >
Wearing Time - Reviews
Czapek & Cie
Czapek Time Jumper Hands-On: A Guilloché Guichet Watch For The Brand’s 10th Anniversary
Czapek’s Time Jumper celebrates the brand’s 10th anniversary with a design that fuses pocket watch tradition and futuristic styling. Its in‑house Calibre 10.01 features a jumping digital 24‑hour display and a minute disc, aided by a magnified window for crisp legibility. A “half‑hunter” lid, intricate guilloché, and a 40.5 mm case underscore the craftsmanship, while a blue rubber strap keeps it wearable. Limited to 100 pieces in steel (CHF 42,000) and 30 in gold (CHF 64,000), it blends artistry and functionality for collectors.
Panerai
Panerai Luminor Marina Bronze PAM01678
This 44 mm Luminor Marina Bronze pairs Panerai’s maritime heritage with a modern bronze case that will develop a unique patina over time. The gradient blue sandwich dial, luminous markers, and 500‑meter water resistance balance style with serious performance. Powered by the automatic Calibre P.980 with a three‑day power reserve, it arrives on blue calf leather with an additional blue rubber strap for the water. Finishing mixes brushed and polished surfaces to elevate the rugged aesthetic.
Ressence
Marc Newson Teams Up With Ressence For The Type 3 MN
This review explores the collaboration between Marc Newson and Ressence on the Type 3 MN, highlighting how the partnership shapes the watch’s design language. It focuses on the signature oil‑filled, disc‑based display and the way the interface enhances legibility and visual depth. The piece also looks at how materials, ergonomics, and dial graphics align with Ressence’s philosophy of functional minimalism. Together, these elements present a cohesive evolution of the Type 3 concept.
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Talking Time
No new episodes today
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee or Bezel
[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2023 Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet 44MM Skeleton Dial Leather Strap (97.9001.9004/80.R922)- was bid to $6,000 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
Chronoswiss Opus Open Chronograph 38MM Skeleton Dial Leather Strap (CH 7523 S)
Auction Report: Skeleton Pioneer On The Block: Chronoswiss Opus Open Chronograph CH 7523 S
If you like your chronographs with nothing to hide, the Chronoswiss Opus Open Chronograph (ref. CH 7523 S) is one of those watches that still stops you in your tracks. This example, offered in very good condition and sold watch-only (no box, no papers), brings the original Opus recipe into sharp focus: a compact 38mm stainless steel case, coin-edged bezel, oversized “onion” crown, and a fully skeletonized dial that leaves almost nothing to the imagination. Inside, a heavily reworked automatic chronograph caliber is on full display, framed by downturned lugs and a classic leather strap that keeps the aesthetics old-school and dressy. Functionally you get a tri-compax chronograph layout at 6, 9, and 12 o’clock plus a pointer-date at 3 o’clock, so this isn’t just a pretty movement doing nothing – it’s a legit everyday complication stack.
To appreciate what’s on the block here, you have to rewind to the mid-1990s. Chronoswiss, founded by Gerd-Rüdiger Lang in 1983 and now based in Lucerne, carved out its niche by going all-in on mechanical watchmaking at a time when quartz was still king. Onion crowns, coin-edged bezels, screwed strap bars and regulator dials became its calling card. In 1995, Lang introduced the Opus, which is widely credited as the first serially produced self-winding skeletonized chronograph – not a one-off haute horlogerie piece, but a regular production model you could actually order. The watch took home “Watch of the Year” honors from German magazine Armbanduhren in 1996 and set the template for the brand’s modern identity: transparency, engineering on display, and a willingness to show every lever and spring doing its thing.
Under the loupe, CH 7523 S is basically a greatest-hits package of that original Opus concept. The 38mm case size is very much of its era and wears smaller and more traditional than the 41–42mm Opus and Sirius Opus models Chronoswiss sells today. The movement, known as Caliber C.741S, starts life as a Valjoux 7750 but is heavily modified, then skeletonized and dressed up with hand-finished bridges and perlage before being cased. You still get the familiar 7750 chronograph architecture and robustness, but here every part is exposed front and back behind sapphire crystals. The pointer-date at 3 o’clock is a neat bit of period charm that also keeps the dial visually balanced; with the calendar scale arcing around that subdial, the watch looks more like a miniature engine or clockwork diagram than a typical sports chrono.
From a historical standpoint, this reference sits in a sweet spot. It is close enough to the 1995 launch generation to retain the “classic” Opus proportions and design language, but late enough that many examples, like the comps we see in the market, date from the 2000s and benefit from refinements in finishing and assembly. Gray & Sons, for instance, recently offered a 38mm Opus ref. CH 7523 on leather strap with box and papers, circa 2009, describing it as a fine pre-owned example. Dealer descriptions from Demesy and other retailers reinforce the core spec sheet: 38mm steel, automatic chronograph with date, skeleton dial, exhibition back – essentially the same configuration as the watch in this auction.
Value is where the Opus gets interesting. When it was in the catalog, the 38mm steel Opus on strap carried a “last known” retail price in the neighborhood of $12,800–$13,000, depending on exact reference and strap/bracelet configuration. Modern 41mm Opus chronographs now list around CHF 11,400 / USD 11,400, which gives you a sense that Chronoswiss still treats this as a flagship concept rather than an entry-level piece. On the secondary market, however, the vintage and neo-vintage Opus models consistently trade well below both historic and current retail. Aggregated listings for ref. CH 7523/CH 7523 S show asking prices starting in the low-$3,000s and running up toward just under $6,000 for steel, 38mm examples on strap or bracelet, with some ambitious outliers above that. A U.S. dealer recently had a CH7523S with box and papers around the $5,000 mark, while another CH 7523 Opus in 38mm sold via a pre-owned dealer at an asking price of $5,450.
Layer onto that the broader reality that Chronoswiss is a connoisseur’s brand rather than a hype engine. Production is relatively low, and while collectors respect the designs, auction results tend to land at the lower end of dealer price ranges rather than setting new records. That’s bad news if you bought an Opus at retail in 2005, but good news if you’re shopping now for a mechanically impressive, slightly eccentric chronograph without paying big-brand premiums.
So what do we do with this particular CH 7523 S? The upsides are clear: classic 38mm case, very good stated condition, and the most emblematic Chronoswiss design on the dial. This is basically the distilled DNA of the brand in one watch. The downside is the lack of box and papers, which matters for niche independent brands where originality and completeness help reassure future buyers. For a steel Opus in very good condition with full set, the recent market suggests a fair dealer or retail-style price in the roughly $4,500–$5,500 range, depending on freshness of service and cosmetic sharpness. Without box and papers, it’s reasonable to haircut that by 15–25%, which brings us into a comfort zone closer to the mid-$3,000s to low-$4,000s for a private-market auction result.
My take: if you’ve always liked the Opus idea but found modern skeleton chronographs either too large or too loud, this 38mm CH 7523 S is arguably the purest expression of the concept. It wears like a traditional mid-’90s dress chronograph but looks like a miniature machine room on the wrist. The fact that it was a genuine “first” in serially produced skeletonized automatic chronographs gives it more historical weight than many similarly priced oddball chronos from the era.
With the auction closing on Saturday, December 6, 2025 at 4:56 p.m. Eastern, there’s enough time to think strategy. Personally, I’d be happy if this hammered somewhere in the $3,200–$3,800 range before buyer’s premium; that feels like you’re paying a fair, slightly opportunistic price for a foundational independent-watchmaking design. Pushing up toward $4,200 all-in could still be justified if the photos and condition truly align with the “very good” description and the skeleton work looks crisp and clean. Beyond that, you’re drifting into territory where you might instead hold out for a more complete set or a particularly special dial variant. But if you want a historically important, conversation-starting chronograph from a genuinely independent brand, this Opus Open Chronograph is a serious piece to consider the moment that countdown clock hits the final minute.
Current bid: $2,500