BuyingTime Daily - December 4, 2025
Marc Newson joins Ressence, Miami becomes the new watch capital, and buyers get real value from Rolex to indie makers. Today’s watch universe is packed.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
“Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe” for December 4, 2025 opens with a very design-forward mood. Industrial legend Marc Newson has landed at Ressence, reworking the Type 3 into the new Type 3 MN, where oil-filled discs, magnetic drive and his trademark soft minimalism turn the whole thing into a hyper-legible, refraction-free instrument that still looks like it rolled out of an art museum. Over in the world of participatory luxury, Maurice Lacroix and Label Noir are handing the configurator keys to the buyer, letting you co-design your watch online instead of just choosing “blue or black.” Meanwhile Rolex continues its slow, deliberate land grab in brick-and-mortar: a new monobrand boutique in Miami’s Design District now completes a golden triangle of U.S. flagships, and if you’re wondering why everyone is suddenly obsessed with Miami, the answer is simple—affluent global crowd, art-week energy, and boutique interiors that look more like galleries than jewelry stores. On the whimsical end of the spectrum, Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin dropped another “Unfrogettable” regulator with a literal frog face, and independent Voutilainen quietly did the most grown-up thing of all by appointing Angélique Singele as CEO so Kari can go back to doing what everyone actually wants him to do: make watches.
Geographically, the trade winds are shifting. While China cools and the U.S. feels a bit shaky, India is stepping into the spotlight as the next big hope for luxury watches, with Swiss exports climbing and a young, affluent audience treating mechanicals as serious status markers rather than just shiny accessories. Back in Europe, Patek Philippe’s Geneva Salon remains ground zero for the high-end pilgrimage, while Parmigiani Fleurier celebrates Michel Parmigiani’s birthday with La Ravenale, a one-off pocket watch that wraps a 1920s ultra-thin repeater in botanical engraving and marquetry. History buffs get a double serving: a deep dive into David Ramsey, clockmaker to King James and the first Master of the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers, and a modern recreation of John Harrison’s H1 marine timekeeper, complete with a dramatic model of HMS Centurion to remind you that getting longitude right once literally changed the world.
On the buying and collecting front, today’s stories are basically a friendly nudge to do your homework. There’s a guide to six key criteria to check before buying a watch in 2025—budget including service and insurance, movement type, water resistance, materials, authenticity, paperwork, comfort and legibility—paired with a timely survey of the 10 best Rolex watches now trading under retail. Explorer 40, Yacht-Master 40, GMT-Master II “Root Beer,” Deepsea “James Cameron,” Sea-Dweller 43 and others are suddenly looking less like speculative assets and more like, imagine this, well-priced watches. Max Verstappen’s collection tour reminds us that being a TAG Heuer ambassador with a few Patek Philippe pieces sprinkled in remains a pretty enviable setup, while an interview with Alexandre Ghotbi at Phillips lays out how provenance, condition and macro trends are currently steering the auction market. For complication lovers, a conversation around Vacheron Constantin’s creative history ends with a trio of Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thins that quietly reinforce why the brand still punches near the top of haute horlogerie.
New releases continue to arrive from every direction. Breitling is celebrating Singapore with a Premier B25 Datora Diamond Jubilee Edition, limited to 60 pieces in burgundy fumé. Cavasino debuts its FT60-S flying tourbillon as a tightly edited, high-finishing first act. H. Moser & Cie leans hard into the “less is more” ethos with the Streamliner Genesis 2 and its Vantablack dial, while Jaeger-LeCoultre shrinks the Master Control Classic down to 36 mm in a very wearable revival. Tool-watch cravings are nicely served by Ollech & Wajs with two reissued Vietnam-era military pieces, Poljot International with the Jaros open heart, and Seiko with fresh Presage Classic references plus a round-up of five 2025 highlights including that anniversary GMT diver. At the wilder end of the scale, Vanguart’s Black Hole Rose Gold 2025 turns joystick setting and a central flying tourbillon into pure sci-fi, and Zenith lights up the Defy Extreme “Chroma” duo in titanium and ceramic for those who think regular skeleton chronographs are just too shy.
In the “actually wearing watches” lane, today’s reviews span most of the modern enthusiast spectrum. AVI-8 goes full retro-gamer with the 1942 Pixel Limited Edition, essentially a Capcom throwback in pilot-watch clothing. Benrus revives the Ultra-Deep as a compact Super Compressor–style diver that leans into 1960s proportions, while Mozen’s GMT1 uses 3D printing to sculpt a lattice-like case that’s clever, if still a bit rough around the edges. At the higher end, Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante Arctic Rose quietly hides a very cool minute countdown complication under a chameleon dial, and Raymond Weil teams up with seconde/seconde/ for a dressy Toccata that jokes about cuff etiquette while staying thin enough to slide under one. Indie energy continues with Singapore’s Tristan Ho and his sold-out LOTH1, proving that a self-taught watchmaker with a modified ETA 6498 and strong finishing can still make waves in a world obsessed with big brands.
Around the periphery of the hobby, there’s plenty to watch even if you’re not currently buying. A round-up of favorite pieces from Dubai Watch Week 2025, a December news hit where Omega allegedly shocks everyone (we’re listening), a Rolex Submariner 2025 market update, and a pair of “impossible” Patek Philippe watches at Sotheby’s keep the content queue full. Specialists’ picks dig into a vintage Rolex Dato-Compax “Jean-Claude Killy,” and there’s long-form video on “the watches I actually kept” after reviewing hundreds. If you’re in New York, Simon Jeffs of Brooklands Watch Company will be lecturing at the Horological Society of New York on December 8, connecting early motor racing at Brooklands with modern timing and watch design—basically the Venn diagram of cars and watches meeting in Midtown.
Finally, a quick check-in on auctions. Yesterday’s B.R.M Chronograph Art Car V7-38-G “ART CAR” stalled at $1,800 on Grailzee and didn’t clear its reserve, so if you’re into motorsport-adjacent rainbow dials, this might be your cue to slide in with a post-auction offer. Tonight’s main event is the 2023 Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet (97.9001.9004/80.R922), a 44 mm sandblasted titanium, 1/100th-second El Primero carnival of purple currently sitting at a $4,300 bid with a full 2023 kit. Given that clean examples have been changing hands in the mid–$8,000s, anything in the $8,000–$9,000 band would be solid value for a high-complication halo piece at a little over half retail. Below that, it’s a steal; well into five figures, you’d better really want that ultraviolet energy on your wrist. Either way, as the gavel approaches tonight, it’s a good moment to ask yourself a very practical question: exactly how much purple do you want in your life?
News Time
Marc Newson rethinks the watch with Ressence
Industrial designer Marc Newson teams up with Ressence on the Type 3 MN, blending the brand’s oil-filled display technology with Newson’s minimalist, ergonomic design language. The watch emphasizes clarity and usability, pairing magnetically driven discs with a muted palette that nods to Newson’s earlier work. Limited to 80 pieces, it focuses on “instrument-like” simplicity and enhanced legibility through refraction-free optics.
Maurice Lacroix and Label Noir launch interactive watch design hub
Maurice Lacroix unveils a bespoke customization program with Label Noir that turns buyers into co-creators. Through an online design studio, customers can pick curated presets or fully personalize materials, finishes, and components. The initiative reframes luxury as an interactive, emotional design experience rather than a static upgrade path, aligning with a broader shift toward participatory design.
Rolex completes golden triangle of monobrand boutiques
Rolex opens a new boutique in Miami’s Design District, rounding out a “golden triangle” of flagship locations across key U.S. markets. The nearly 5,000-square-foot space merges the brand’s design codes with Miami’s Art Deco influences to deliver an immersive retail experience. It reflects Rolex’s strategy to anchor presence in prestigious locations with elevated service and hospitality.
A Pair That’s Unfrogettable: Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin Team Up Once Again
Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin’s “Unfrogettable” reimagines the regulator layout horizontally to form a whimsical frog motif. Playful details, textured surfaces, and vivid green or royal purple colorways bring fairy-tale character to life without sacrificing refinement. Limited to 178 pieces and priced at CHF 4,500, it pairs Japanese Kurozan leather with storytelling-driven design.
Voutilainen Appoints New CEO Angélique Singele
Independent watchmaker Voutilainen names Angélique Singele as CEO, a step in long-term succession planning. The move frees founder Kari Voutilainen to focus on creation, client relationships, and unique commissions while maintaining independence across the group. Singele, a trained watchmaker with experience at Rolex and Zenith, joined in 2020 and became COO before her promotion.
As China Retreats And The U.S. Wobbles, Is India The Next Great Hope For The Luxury Watch Market?
Amid headwinds in China and uncertainty in the U.S., India is emerging as a growth engine for luxury watches. Swiss exports to India are rising alongside a young, affluent cohort that views mechanical watches as status symbols. With the market projected to expand significantly by 2033, both international brands and domestic players are scaling to meet demand.
Luxury Swiss Unveils New Rolex Boutique in the Miami Design District
Luxury Swiss opens a 4,900-square-foot Rolex boutique in Miami with an exterior inspired by the Atlantic and interiors nodding to Art Deco. The space features private consultation areas, a hospitality bar, and an after-sales zone where clients can observe Rolex-trained artisans. The debut underscores a 30-year partnership and serves Miami’s growing collector community.
Here’s Why the World’s Top Watchmakers Are Flocking to Miami
Global watch brands are expanding in Miami, leveraging the city’s affluent, international audience and art-centric December calendar. New and renovated boutiques in the Design District emphasize immersive retail and cultural relevance. Participation in design and art fairs further positions watches as collectible art, blending craftsmanship with gallery-style storytelling.
Feature Time
Inside the watch collection of Max Verstappen
Max Verstappen’s watch collection underscores his status as a global sports icon and TAG Heuer ambassador, highlighted by special editions celebrating his championships. His pieces span advanced chronographs and limited runs tied to Oracle Red Bull Racing. Beyond TAG Heuer, he owns high-luxury timepieces like the Patek Philippe Aquanaut, reflecting a taste for refined mechanics and design. Together, these watches commemorate milestones from youngest Grand Prix winner to multi-title dominance.
The 10 Best Rolex Watches Now Under Retail (From a Rare Explorer 40 to a Meteorite-Dial GMT-Master II)
The Rolex market has shifted, with availability improving and certain models trading under retail. Standouts include the Explorer 40 for a larger classic presence and the blue-dial Yacht-Master 40 as an insider favorite. Collectors can also find value in the GMT-Master II “Root Beer,” Deepsea “James Cameron,” and Sea-Dweller 43, among others. It’s a favorable moment for buyers seeking quality pieces at fairer prices.
Luxury watches: 6 criteria to check before buying in 2025
A smart luxury watch purchase starts with a comprehensive budget that includes maintenance and insurance, guided by how and where the watch will be worn. Understanding movement types, water resistance, and materials helps match performance to lifestyle. Authenticity checks, condition, and paperwork safeguard value, while comfort and legibility matter for real-world wear. Staying informed about market dynamics supports better timing and future resale.
The Greatest Horologists Of Their Time: David Ramsey (c.1580–c.1660)
David Ramsey rose to prominence as Clockmaker to King James VI & I, marrying artistic beauty with advances in timekeeping. He crafted notable pieces like an astrological watch and helped professionalize British horology. As the first Master of the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers, he shaped standards and protected the craft. His patents and leadership left a lasting imprint on the history of time.
Parmigiani continues tradition of marking Michel Parmigiani’s birthday with an exquisite piece unique
Parmigiani Fleurier honors its founder’s birthday with La Ravenale, a pocket watch built around a restored ultra-thin minute repeater from the 1920s. Inspired by the Traveler’s Palm of Madagascar, hand-engraved bridges and marquetry reflect nature’s forms and Parmigiani’s restoration ethos. An 18ct white gold dial in sky blue ties the vintage movement to the brand’s modern aesthetic. The result is a singular work of horological art.
The 5 Seiko Watch Releases We Hope You Didn’t Miss in 2025
Seiko’s year featured standout launches spanning heritage and innovation. The Speedtimer “Motoring” nods to vintage racing, while the Alpinist SPB507 brings a beloved line back with upgrades. The Rotocall SMGG revisits retro digital charm, the Style60s refresh dials and details, and the SPB519J1 GMT Diver celebrates 60 years of Seiko dive watches. Each shows thoughtful design with real-world functionality.
A Historical Gem in Geneva: The Patek Philippe Salon
Patek Philippe’s Geneva Salon offers an immersive journey through the brand’s heritage and innovation. Curated displays and knowledgeable staff highlight craftsmanship and mechanical artistry. The experience blends luxury with education, enriching appreciation for details that define the maison’s identity. It’s a destination for both seasoned collectors and curious newcomers.
Interview With Alexandre Ghotbi From Phillips on The Auction Market
Alexandre Ghotbi discusses current auction dynamics, from macroeconomic influences to shifting collector tastes. He explains how authenticity, provenance, and condition shape outcomes and long-term value. Practical guidance helps bidders navigate opportunities and avoid pitfalls. The conversation captures both the excitement and complexity of today’s luxury auction scene.
Ben Clymer, Eddy Tonkin, And Alexander Schmiedt On Vacheron Constantin’s History Of Creative Complications
Vacheron Constantin’s year is capped by La Quête Du Temps, an astronomical clock with 23 complications and two instruments. A dialogue with collectors and Vacheron’s Americas president explores the brand’s century-spanning inventiveness. Highlights include landmark complicated pieces from the 20th century to now. The discussion closes with a trio of Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thins for the 270th anniversary.
Signaporean Indie Watchmaker Tristan Ho And His Loth1
Tristan Ho, a biomedical researcher turned watchmaker, founded LOTH to pursue independent craft in Singapore. His debut LOTH1, built on a modified ETA 6498, showcases hand finishing and inventive details, selling out quickly. Self-taught via online resources and community mentorship, Ho aims to create Singapore’s first in-house movement. His trajectory champions meaningful, small-scale horology over mass production.
The Clock that Changed the World and The Recreation of John Harrison’s H1
A modern recreation of John Harrison’s H1—commissioned by Pragnell and crafted by Bob Bray—honors the marine chronometer that solved the Longitude Problem. The piece reveals its intricate mechanics atop a model of HMS Centurion. Meticulous research and modern methods filled gaps left by sparse historical documentation. Limited commissions are planned following its gala debut.
Event Time
Simon Jeffs To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
Simon Jeffs, Founder of Brooklands Watch Company, will speak at HSNY on December 8, 2025, tracing the deep ties between speed and time measurement. He’ll explore Brooklands, the world’s first purpose-built motor racing circuit, where precise timing was central as early as 1907, highlighting figures like Percy Lambert and John Cobb. Jeffs will also discuss his modern connections to this legacy, including Sir Terence Conran’s design work and Brooklands’ mission to “give meaning to speed.” The lecture takes place at the General Society Library in Midtown Manhattan, with free tickets required.
The Latest Time
Breitling
Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 Diamond Jubilee Edition
Breitling marks Singapore’s 60th year of independence and its Raffles City flagship’s second anniversary with a 60-piece Premier B25 Datora in burgundy fumé. The COSC-certified Calibre B25 powers a triple calendar with moon phase in a 42 mm steel case on black alligator. Each piece is uniquely numbered and delivered with a commemorative burgundy passport sleeve. Retail is SGD 20,950.
Cavasino
Ensemble Debut: The Cavasino Inaugural Tourbillon FT60-S
Industry veteran Didier Cavasino debuts the FT60-S, a flying tourbillon limited to 50 pieces that fuses modern manufacturing with traditional finishing. The DCR-01 movement features meticulous hand work and a symmetrical layout under a compact case with 70-hour power reserve. A titanium subscription series sold out at CHF 77,000, with stainless steel priced at CHF 88,500, and precious metals to follow. The design language, inspired by a family history of precision scales, emphasizes minimalism and mechanical clarity.
H. Moser & Cie
Streamliner Genesis 2 – The Second Watch of Three in a Triptych from H. Moser & Cie.
Moser’s Streamliner Genesis 2 pairs an ergonomic 40 mm steel case and integrated bracelet with a Vantablack dial that absorbs 99.97% of light. Conceived as a physical counterpoint to the more virtual Genesis 1, it’s limited to 100 pieces and aimed at early supporters. The watch explores contemporary technology in haute horlogerie while retaining daily-wear practicality. Price is CHF 29,900 before taxes.
H. Moser & Cie Unveils The Streamliner Genesis 2 - Read More >
Jaeger-LeCoultre
The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Classic 36mm
Limited to 500 pieces, the 36 mm Master Control Classic revives a 1995 reference with a refined sunray silver dial and framed date. It runs the updated in-house Calibre 899 with 70-hour power reserve and JLC’s 1000-Hour Control certification. A brown ostrich strap complements the compact, balanced proportions for all-day wear. Price is EUR 8,950 or USD 8,950.
Ollech & Wajs
Ollech & Wajs Re-Issue Two Forgotten Vietnam-Era Military Watches
OW brings back the MK-102 (2nd Infantry Division DMZ Edition) and MV-82 (Vietnam Airborne Edition), each limited to 56 pieces and handmade in the Swiss Jura. Both share a 39.5 mm case, Soprod P024 automatic movement, and 300 m water resistance, with emblems honoring their historic units. The MK-102 features the Indian Head insignia, while the MV-82 bears the Parachutist Badge and Airborne phrases. Each is priced at CHF 1,496.
Poljot
Poljot-International Open Their Heart With Jaros Model
Poljot International’s Jaros Open Heart blends wave-pattern guilloché and a mother-of-pearl-framed aperture over the Seiko NH38 movement. The 42 mm steel case, sapphire crystal, and 5 ATM water resistance are paired with an embossed calfskin strap. Offered in four configurations, each variant is limited to 100 pieces. Pricing is 750 EUR or 799 EUR depending on the version.
Seiko
The Seiko Presage Classic Series
Seiko’s Presage Classic adds SPB525 with an ‘ai-iro’ indigo silk-inspired dial and date, and SPB527 with a sun-ray finish, open-heart balance, and 24-hour counter. Both 40 mm models use 6R-series automatics with 72-hour power reserve, super-hard coatings, and sapphire crystals. Seven-link steel bracelets blend brushed and polished surfaces for daily wear durability. SPB525 is USD 950 and SPB527 is USD 1,125.
Vanguart
Vanguart Introduce Black Hole Rose Gold 2025
Limited to eight pieces, the Black Hole Rose Gold 2025 uses a 45 mm rose-gold case with joystick time setting and a central flying tourbillon. Concentric rings deliver a digital-style time display over an in-house titanium movement (T-1701) with 42-hour power reserve and 775 components. Industrial textures and a power reserve indicator enhance the sci-fi aesthetic. Price is CHF 410,000.
Zenith
“Chroma” Release from Zenith Has Arrived
Zenith’s Defy Extreme Chroma returns in two 45 mm variants: microblasted black titanium and titanium with white ceramic, each limited to 100 pieces. The El Primero 9004 1/100th-second chronograph movement drives a colorful dial with high-frequency performance. Sets include multiple straps and a bracelet for versatile wear. Retail price is USD 20,600.
Rainbow-powered chronographs: Zenith unveils bold new Chroma duo - Read More >
Wearing Time - Reviews
AVI-8
AVI-8 Automatic 1942 Pixel Limited-Edition Watch Review: Retro Video Game Pilot-Style Fun
The AVI-8 Hawker Hurricane Clowes Automatic Capcom 1942 Pixel Limited Edition fuses vintage aviator cues with playful, pixelated dial art. A Japanese Seiko automatic movement powers a 46 mm brushed steel case with a date display rendered in a custom pixel font, plus luminous pixel hands and markers for strong legibility. Available in three colorways and limited to 200 pieces per variant, it balances whimsical design with everyday functionality. Price is $375.
Benrus
Hands-On With The Suprisingly Fresh And Invigorating Benrus Ultra-Deep
The Benrus Ultra-Deep revives the ref. 6089 with a compact 36.5 mm Super Compressor-style case and 666 ft water resistance, channeling classic dive-watch proportions. A richly detailed black dial with cathedral hands delivers vintage charm, while a modern screw-down execution ensures reliable daily wear. Inside, the automatic Soprod P024 provides dependable performance and a fun wrist experience. Price is $1,195.
Kollokium
Kollokium Projekt 02 - The Second Offering From The Radical Swiss Platform Is Another Watch That Defies Comparisons
Kollokium’s Projekt 02 is limited to 199 pieces and showcases a 67‑plate, multi‑layered dial inspired by neo‑brutalist and futuristic architecture. Its matte die‑cast 316L steel monobloc case pairs rugged presence with practical wearability, aided by a fully lumed dial and a fluorescent‑orange seconds hand. An unbranded La Joux‑Perret automatic movement delivers 68 hours of power reserve for easy daily use. Rapidly sold out at CHF 3,333, it cements Kollokium’s reputation for provocative, wearable design.
Mozen
A Hands-On Introduction To The New Mozen GMT1
Mozen’s GMT1 leverages 3D printing and CNC machining for a layered, architectural case with a rotating ring for the second time zone. The 40 mm stainless steel watch offers 100 m water resistance and is powered by the Seiko NH34, but GMT legibility can be compromised as the hands overlap the scale. Finishing is solid though some rough areas remain in the waffle-like structure, hinting at room for refinement. Price is $900 (pre-order).
Parmigiani Fleurier
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante Arctic Rose
The Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante Arctic Rose pairs a 40 mm steel case and platinum bezel with a dial that shifts from white to pink, depending on light. Its micro-rotor calibre PF052 adds a rattrapante minute hand for countdown timing, blending discreet complication with everyday versatility. Large teardrop lugs and an integrated bracelet underscore the “stealth wealth” aesthetic. Price is CHF 29,700, available from December 2025.
Raymond Weil
Hands-On With The Raymond Weil Toccata Heritage × Seconde/Seconde/ Limited Edition
This Toccata Heritage collaboration bridges formal dress-watch codes with casual style, featuring an anthracite dial that cheekily illustrates proper cuff coverage. The 32.5 × 37.7 mm case is just 6.95 mm thick, slips under a shirt cuff, and is paired with a manual RW4100 movement and black calfskin strap. Despite modest water resistance, it delivers a versatile look that resonates beyond strict formal wear. Price is €1,825.
Watching Time
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Asking what watches people are wearing in Miami - Street Interview Ep.102
Talking Time
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Wednesday’s auction watch, the B.R.M Chronograph Art Car V7-38-G “ART CAR” L.E. 38MM Multicolored Dial Leather Strap (V7-38-G-ART CAR) - was bid to $1,800 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2023 Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet 44MM Skeleton Dial Leather Strap (97.9001.9004/80.R922)
Auction Report: Purple Fever: Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet (97.9001.9004/80.R922)
The 2023 Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet is what happens when a very serious piece of high-frequency chronograph engineering decides to show up in full club lighting. This example, reference 97.9001.9004/80.R922, comes in very good condition with box, outer box, additional items and 2023 papers, which is about as complete a package as you can hope for on a fairly young Defy. The 44mm sandblasted titanium case and matching bezel keep the weight shockingly low for the size, while the exhibition case back shows off the El Primero 21 engine that made this whole Ultraviolet experiment worth doing in the first place.
On the wrist, the watch is all architecture and attitude. The skeleton dial with purple accents gives you the full mechanical theatre, with the three chronograph registers laid out at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock and that unmistakable violet-finished movement glowing underneath. Zenith launched the Ultraviolet concept in 2020 as the first chronograph to feature a violet movement, explicitly tying violet—the highest-frequency color in the visible spectrum—to its 1/100th-of-a-second, dual-escapement El Primero 21 calibre. One escapement runs the timekeeping side at 5 Hz, the other runs the chronograph at an outrageous 50 Hz, which is why the chrono seconds hand looks like it’s trying to escape orbit when you hit the pusher.
Original retail has hovered in the mid-teens; depending on source, MSRP is quoted around $14,000 to just under $15,800. The secondary market, however, has been far more welcoming for buyers than for sellers. WatchCharts pegs the current market value in roughly the mid–$8,000s for this reference, with a price guide showing a retail of about $15,800 and market estimates in the $8,500–$8,700 zone. We’ve also seen dealers and platforms listing examples from around $9,900 up into the low teens depending on year and condition, while a recent Grailzee sale in October 2025 saw a 2020 Ultraviolet with box and papers hammer at $8,500, which is a very useful real-world comp for this auction.
Given that backdrop, this 2023 example with a full kit and a purple leather strap in very good condition has a pretty clear value band. If you can land it in the $8,000–$9,000 neighborhood, you are effectively buying a halo-level, 1/100th-second, high-complication Zenith at a little over half of retail. Much below $8,000 and you’re into “opportunistic steal” territory; north of $10,000, you’re paying dealer-style money and should want either near-unworn condition or some added value like a transfer of factory warranty to feel great about it. Either way, this is not a fragile, safe-queen proposition—the titanium case, 100 meters of water resistance, and robust El Primero 21 architecture were built to be worn, not just stared at through a loupe.
In the broader Zenith story, the Defy 21 Ultraviolet has quietly become one of the more distinctive modern Defy variants: not limited, but visually loud enough and technically advanced enough that it stands out from the herd of generic skeleton chronographs. For collectors who like their tech visible and their color choices turned up past “conservative blue,” it scratches the same itch as a boutique-only Hublot or a wild independent, but with provenance, COSC-certified chronometry, and a long-running El Primero lineage behind it. As the gavel approaches at 9:18 pm on Thursday, December 4, 2025, this is the kind of lot where you decide, very honestly, how much purple you want in your life—and then bid accordingly.
Current bid: $4,300