BuyingTime Daily - December 3, 2025
Christie’s blockbuster Rolex highlights, Dubai Watch Week energy, big UK retail shifts, and fresh releases from Vacheron, Hermès, Zenith, and more—today’s watch universe in motion.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe — December 3, 2025
Christie’s is gearing up for its December 9 “Important Watches” sale in New York, and the preview alone feels like a cinematic trailer for horology’s greatest hits. A trio of Rolex Daytona “Beach” models in 18k white gold—yes, the ones with the vivid dials and diamond-set bezels—headline the spectacle, although Christie’s is politely declining to provide estimates. Non-diamond versions hover around $50,000, so the diamond trio will almost certainly bring out the deep pockets. The sale rounds out with a unique tourbillon carriage clock, a rare Patek Philippe pocket watch, and an MB&F HM6 Sapphire Vision limited to ten pieces. Add entries from Cartier and Audemars Piguet, plus online sales running through December 17, and Christie’s is essentially staging a month-long December watch festival.
Across the UK, Boodles posted a 19% jump in sales to £125 million, but the celebratory mood was muted by a 25% slide in operating profit. The usual villains—tourist tax, sluggish retail climate—are present, but Patek Philippe continues to anchor nearly one-third of the brand’s sales, with no cuts to allocations on the horizon. David M Robinson also saw modest top-line growth, up 3% to £60.4 million, yet rising operating costs and heavy showroom investments continue to pressure profitability. The UK luxury scene remains caught in its familiar balancing act: strong brand demand, weak policy environment.
Dubai Watch Week celebrated its 10th anniversary with an energy that suggested the fair has officially graduated to global must-attend status. Major presences from Rolex, Tudor, and Audemars Piguet blended with independents in a setting so photogenic that Leica got involved—literally—hosting panels and capturing both watches and cityscapes through the SL3. Meanwhile, Fratello offered a look back at the best watches of 2025, with standouts from Vacheron Constantin, IWC, Angelus, Louis Vuitton, and Berneron. The takeaway is that 2025 is shaping up as a return to elegance and craftsmanship rather than bombast. A companion piece reflected on the watch hobby itself—a gentle reminder that collecting is as much about community as calibres.
Insight pieces this week revisit the myth-making behind Rolex, which spent a century polishing its identity around precision and achievement while tying itself to sports, exploration, and cultural milestones. That deliberate consistency is why a Rolex still feels like a Rolex even as the world shifts. In the heritage-versus-heritage showdown between the TAG Heuer Carrera ‘Glassbox’ and the Zenith El Primero A384, the consensus tilts toward Zenith’s more faithful revival—soul still counts, apparently. And the latest recap of Audemars Piguet’s RD lineage underscores that innovation doesn’t always require theatrics; sometimes thinner, quieter, and more precise is the real flex. A historical note closes the loop by revisiting the quartz crisis and how brands like Blancpain, under Jacques Piguet and Jean-Claude Biver, chose craftsmanship over capitulation, helping set the stage for the mechanical renaissance.
In new releases, Baltic expands its Prismic Stone line with four natural stone dials, launching today with prices from €1,300. Bernhard Lederer unveils the Inverto Titanium 39mm, a masterclass in inverted architecture and constant-force logic. Christopher Ward teams with Studio Underd0g on a 100-piece pocket watch for the Alliance; G-Shock drops a Poison Dart Frog–themed Frogman; and Hermès presents a restrained, beautifully executed perpetual calendar that might be its best Slim d’Hermès yet. L’Atelier Bernard arrives with a six-piece debut known as “The Owl,” Sartory Billard returns with a dial showcase limited to 25 pieces, TAG Heuer rekindles its fragment collaboration with a ghosted-out Carrera, Vacheron Constantin expands the Traditionnelle QP Ultra-Thin to classic 36.5mm proportions, and Zenith returns with two new Defy Extreme Chroma editions.
Reviews this week spotlight Berneron’s Quantième Annuel—a technically fascinating annual calendar priced like a perpetual—and Louis Vuitton’s new Escale malachite and turquoise stone-dial watches, which take the material to a sculptural level. Panerai’s new Bronzo rounds out the trio, delivering classic tool-watch credibility in a patina-hungry bronze case and a matte blue dial.
On the auction front, Tuesday’s Patek Philippe 5205G-010 failed to meet its reserve at $28,000, meaning a post-auction offer may still snag it. Today’s pick is the B.R.M Chronograph Art Car V7-38-G “ART CAR,” a 100-piece technicolor burst of motorsport eccentricity. Compact at 38mm and unmistakably loud, it’s pure Bernard Richards energy—an enthusiast’s toy more than an investment. Current bid: $1,000, with tonight’s 6:12 pm cutoff approaching fast.
That’s the universe for today—full of color, craft, and the occasional Poison Dart Frog. - Michael Wolf
News Time
Fan-favourite Rolex Models To Hit Christie’s ‘Important Watches’ Sale
Christie’s ‘Important Watches’ auction in New York on December 9 will showcase standout rarities, including a trio of Rolex Daytona “Beach” models in 18K white gold with baguette diamond bezels and vivid dials. Estimates for the diamond-set pieces were not disclosed, though non-diamond versions often reach around $50,000. Highlights also include a unique tourbillon carriage clock (estimated $200,000–$400,000), a rare Patek Philippe pocket watch ($100,000–$200,000), and an MB&F HM6 Sapphire Vision limited to 10 pieces ($150,000–$350,000). Additional works from Patek Philippe, Cartier, and Audemars Piguet round out a sale supported by concurrent online auctions through December 17.
Boodles Sales Jump To £125 Million But Profit Slides
Boodles’ sales rose 19% to £125 million in its first year under joint managing directors Jody Wainwright and James Amos, supported by strong performance across 10 UK and Ireland boutiques. Despite the top-line growth, operating profit fell 25% to £13 million amid a tough UK retail climate and the impact of the Tourist Tax. The leadership transition marks a new chapter for the sixth-generation family business as it balances expansion with profitability. Patek Philippe remains a key partner, contributing about one-third of sales, with assurances of no further retail reductions and an expanded Manchester boutique underway.
David M Robinson Sales Tick Up To £60 Million
David M Robinson posted a 3% sales increase to £60.4 million for the year ending March 2025, even as retail conditions remained challenging. Operating profit declined 4% to £5 million, well below the 2021–22 peak, as heavy showroom investments raised rents and depreciation. The outlook cites lingering pressures from the lack of tax-free shopping for tourists, dampening the UK’s luxury appeal. Rising business rates and national insurance costs add further uncertainty for the sector.
Feature Time
Dubai Watch Week Highlights Through The Lens
Dubai Watch Week marked its 10th anniversary with a vibrant mix of luxury and independent brands in a dramatic setting near the Burj Khalifa. Major names like Rolex, Tudor, and Audemars Piguet appeared alongside smaller makers, underscoring the fair’s growing influence. Panels, including a Leica-hosted discussion on time and photography, added depth to the program. Captures with the Leica SL3 highlighted standout timepieces and Dubai’s striking architecture.
Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2025 — Thomas’s Picks From Berneron, Louis Vuitton, Angelus, And More
This feature highlights five standout watches of 2025, reflecting a trend toward elegance and high watchmaking. Picks include notable pieces from Vacheron Constantin, IWC, Angelus, Louis Vuitton, and Berneron. Each watch is celebrated for distinctive design, technical execution, and craftsmanship that set it apart in a competitive year. Together, they map a landscape where refinement and thoughtful engineering lead the way.
Fratello On Air: Giving Thanks To The Watch Hobby
An appreciation-focused installment that reflects on what makes watch collecting meaningful beyond references and specs. The discussion emphasizes community, shared experiences, and the personal stories that connect enthusiasts to their watches. It’s a reminder that the hobby thrives on curiosity, generosity, and learning from one another. A timely pause to celebrate the joy of horology at year’s end.
Insight: Shaping the Rolex Identity with a Century of Strategic Positioning
Rolex deliberately built a coherent identity around precision, achievement, and reliability, starting from the early 1900s with a name crafted for global recognition and chronometer certifications to prove accuracy. Over decades, the brand aligned with sports, exploration, and cultural events, using sponsorships to reinforce its image. Postwar, icons like the Datejust, Submariner, and GMT‑Master cemented an institutional presence. In the 21st century, Rolex has focused on legacy management, adapting to new cultural spaces while maintaining consistent messaging and design language.
TAG Heuer Carrera ‘Glassbox’ vs Zenith El Primero A384: Which Heritage Revival Got It Right?
The Carrera ‘Glassbox’ brings modern polish in a compact 39mm format with the reliable TH20 movement, yet its dial finishing can feel inconsistent. Zenith’s El Primero A384 Revival embraces 1969 authenticity with tactile charm and robust construction that resonates with collectors seeking a true vintage spirit. Where the Carrera appeals to newer enthusiasts, the A384’s depth and character make it feel special with every wind. Ultimately, the Zenith’s fidelity to heritage justifies its higher price for those prioritizing authenticity.
The tradition of the RD#
Audemars Piguet’s RD Concept lineage showcases a blend of traditional craft and modern engineering breakthroughs. From the RD#1 Supersonnerie’s acoustic innovations to the record‑thin RD#2 perpetual calendar and the ultra‑thin tourbillon chronograph RD#5, each step advances performance and wearability. The series traces roots back to milestones like the first minute‑repeater wristwatch and the Royal Oak, evolving toward ever more ergonomic complexity. The result is a portfolio that elevates functionality, comfort, and aesthetic coherence in equal measure.
Watch men
In 1984, as quartz watches devastated Switzerland’s mechanical industry, Jacques Piguet and Jean‑Claude Biver chose to revive Blancpain by refocusing on handmade luxury. Their strategy emphasized craftsmanship and emotion over utility, carving space in a market flooded with cheaper, reliable quartz products. Alongside the rise of Swatch, which married affordability with Swiss quality, the industry regained momentum and global appeal. Today’s multibillion‑dollar Swiss watch sector shows that the quartz crisis was a turning point, not an end.
The Latest Time
Baltic
Introducing: The Baltic Prismic Stone Enters the Permanent Collection With New Patterns
Baltic adds four natural stone dials — Pietersite, Pink Albite, Bloodstone, and Dumortierite — to its permanent Prismic Stone series, each unique thanks to thousand-year-old stone. A slim 36mm stainless steel and titanium case pairs with the La Joux‑Perret D100 automatic movement offering a 50-hour power reserve, visible through a sapphire caseback. Quick-release options include Italian calf leather or a brushed mesh bracelet for easy swapping. Pricing ranges from €1,300 to €1,510, with deliveries beginning December 3, 2025.
Bernhard Lederer
Where Mechanics and Elegance Unite: Bernhard Lederer’s New Inverto Titanium 39mm
The Inverto Titanium 39mm showcases inverted architecture and a featherweight titanium build that hugs the wrist while revealing its mechanical soul. Inside, calibre 9019 brings a double constant‑force remontoir and dual detent escapement for a remarkably consistent power flow. The hand‑polished concave case and near‑total in‑house production underline artisanal intent. Priced at CHF 152,000, this limited edition blends transparency, precision, and modern elegance.
Christopher Ward
Christopher Ward x Studio Underd0g The Alliance 02
A collaboration pocket watch limited to 100 pieces, The Alliance 02 combines Christopher Ward’s Light‑catcher design language with Studio Underd0g’s luminous, multi‑layered dial. The in‑house hand‑wound CW‑001 calibre delivers a massive 120‑hour power reserve, housed in a 44mm stainless steel case with an oversized crown. A braided leather strap and playful gradient lume emphasize both function and flair. Priced at £2,995, it is available exclusively to Alliance members, with proceeds supporting British watchmaking.
G-Shock
Even for G-Shock, This Bold New Dive Watch Touts an Unusually Ultralight, Ultra-Tough Build
The Frogman GW‑8200TPF‑1JR channels the Poison Dart Frog with vivid green striping on a black base and a resin‑wrapped titanium case that keeps weight down while boosting toughness. A 200‑meter rating, Tough Solar movement, diving functions, and a moon‑phase display make it a capable tool. An integrated water level indicator and eco‑conscious materials add utility and sustainability. Priced around $607, it lands in December 2025.
Hermes
Elegant Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Is The Art Of Restraint
Crafted in rose gold, the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel pairs an ultra‑thin profile with a perpetual calendar, presenting Philippe Apeloig’s distinctive typography on a galvanic brown dial. Aventurine moon phase, second time zone, month, date, and leap year sit in a harmonious, legible layout. The ultra‑thin self‑winding H1950 calibre provides a 48‑hour reserve, handling irregular months and leap years automatically. A Havana alligator strap completes a restrained and refined execution.
L’Atelier Bernard
The Owl is an Ambitious Debut from L’Atelier Bernard
“The Owl” blends a duplex escapement and inverted movement with bold, symmetrical barrels to create a kinetic sculpture on the wrist. Its dial‑less presentation amplifies rich finishing contrasts, while a slow‑beat 1.5 Hz balance sets a contemplative tempo. Limited to six pieces, all sold, it prioritizes artisanal expression as much as timekeeping. Priced at CHF 150,000 before taxes, with a 45‑hour power reserve.
Sartory Billard
Sartory-Billard Elevates Dial Artistry With The SB04-E Exquisite Blue
Limited to 25 pieces with Exquisite Timepieces, the SB04‑E pairs a dramatic blue gradient guilloché center with a contrasting white guilloché section for crisp balance. Polished, diamond‑cut numerals and BGW9‑filled hand‑finished hands add depth and legibility. A La Joux‑Perret automatic movement offers a 68‑hour reserve and 100 meters of water resistance. The package includes both a metal bracelet and white rubber strap with quick‑change fittings.
TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x fragment Limited Edition
Returning to a five‑year‑dormant partnership, fragment design and TAG Heuer deliver a 500‑piece Carrera with a black opaline dial, subtle branding, and a clever tachymeter twist. A blackened center link on the bracelet mirrors the dial’s mood, while the exhibition back reveals the TH20‑00 with an 80‑hour reserve. The aesthetic leans “ghost‑like,” enhancing legibility without losing the Carrera’s DNA. Priced at CHF 8,150, with availability beginning December 2025.
Vacheron Constantin
The 36mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
Vacheron introduces 36.5mm, gem‑free versions of the Traditionnelle QP in white or pink gold, widening appeal with classic proportions. Calibre 1120 QP keeps the profile razor‑thin at just 4.05mm while handling perpetual calendar logic with grace. A silver‑toned opaline dial ensures legibility across sub‑dials, all sealed with the Hallmark of Geneva. Priced at $100,000, it reads as a future heirloom piece.
Vacheron Constantin’s New Traditionelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra Thin - Read More >
Zenith
The New Zenith Defy Extreme Chroma Editions
Two 100‑piece Defy Extreme Chroma variants arrive with a 45mm titanium‑ceramic mix, one microblasted and dark, the other bright with a white ceramic bezel. The El Primero 9004 measures to 1/100th of a second with a 50‑hour reserve, shown through an openworked dial with rainbow‑varnished markers and hands. Three interchangeable straps encourage versatility. Priced at CHF 19,900, EUR 21,600, or USD 20,600.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Berneron
Berneron Quantième Annuel – the world’s best annual calendar or a confused newcomer in a cooling market segment?
Berneron’s Quantième Annuel is a technically ambitious annual calendar with a hand-wound calibre 595 that combines a jumping hour and a retrograde date, enabling five instant-switch indicators. The case mixes platinum and 904L steel to balance luxury and durability, while the design blends traditional and novel elements. Entering a cooling segment where perpetual calendars are currently favored, the watch faces a tough market backdrop. At CHF 120,000, it competes directly with heavyweights like Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne, raising tough value questions.
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton Escale Stone Dial Watches Review: Taking Stone To The Next Level
The Escale Malachite and Escale Turquoise elevate the stone-dial trend with casebands carved from single pieces of malachite or turquoise. A 40mm platinum case, clean dial layout, and white gold hands keep the focus on the stones while maintaining legibility and elegance. An in-house automatic microrotor movement delivers chronometer-certified precision, proving these pieces are more than aesthetic showpieces. Limited to 30 pieces each and priced at €65,500, they showcase meticulous stone selection and contemporary luxury craft.
Panerai
Panerai Luminor Marina ‘Bronzo’ PAM01678
Panerai’s 44mm bronze Luminor Marina Bronzo is built to develop a distinctive patina, pairing a matte blue dial with beige Super-LumiNova for high legibility. The clean, no-date layout underscores a classic tool-watch character, backed by 500 meters of water resistance and a robust automatic movement. Inside, the P.980 calibre offers a 72-hour power reserve and improved shock resistance, with calf leather and rubber straps for versatility. At $17,500, it is a compelling, capability-driven entry in the Bronzo line for both collectors and newcomers.
The Panerai Luminor Marina Bronzo PAM01678 - Read More >
Watching Time
Ben Clymer & Experts Decode Vacheron Constantin’s Innovation Strategy
NEW Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle - SECRET Release?!
The Hottest New Watches You Can Buy Right Now!
Preserving 160 Years of Zenith Watchmaking Excellence with Laurence Bodenmann
Cartier’s Elite Take On The Sports Watch - Cartier Santos De Cartier Medium
Talking Time
Superlative: Precision and Heritage with Felix Wallner of Hanhart Watches
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Tuesday’s auction watch, the 2012 Discontinued Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 40MM Black/Grey Dial Leather Strap (5205G-010) - was bid to $28,000 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
B.R.M Chronograph Art Car V7-38-G “ART CAR” L.E. 38MM Multicolored Dial Leather Strap (V7-38-G-ART CAR)
Auction Report: B.R.M V7-38-G “Art Car” – A 100-Piece Technicolor Track Toy
The B.R.M Chronograph Art Car V7-38-G “ART CAR” Limited Edition is one of those pieces you simply can’t mistake for anything else. Released as a run of just 100 watches worldwide, it represents founder Bernard Richards’ unapologetically niche vision: motorsport-inspired mechanical toys for grown-ups who want their wrist to feel like a pit lane. This particular example comes in very good condition, with the box included but no papers, and as always with B.R.M, the personality is working overtime.
Launched as part of B.R.M’s Art Car series—an homage to the wild paint-splashed race cars made famous by artists and manufacturers across endurance racing—the V7-38-G extends the brand’s already eccentric DNA into full technicolor. The 38mm steel case is compact by B.R.M standards, giving it an unexpectedly wearable footprint. The rotating bezel is served with rainbow accents, a cue that prepares the eye for the dial’s explosion of color: multicolored Arabic numerals, “Automobile”-style hands shaped like miniature parts off a race car, and a 60-minute scale integrated into the chapter ring. A date window at 6 o’clock gives the design just enough practicality to pretend this is still a watch for everyday use. The leather strap, black with multicolored stitching, finishes the theme without losing the race-garage grit that makes B.R.M feel like its own subculture.
Historically, B.R.M has always catered to an enthusiast who loves racing more than refinement. The company hand-machines many components in France and builds watches with an intentionally raw industrial aesthetic. Their Art Car limited editions tend to sell out among brand loyalists because they’re collectible not in the classic horological sense but in the “this is absolutely unlike anything else” sense. Earlier V-series chronographs typically retail around $4,500–$7,000 depending on materials and edition size. Art Car models—especially those capped at 100 units—tend to trade on the secondary market in the $3,500–$5,500 range depending on condition and completeness. The absence of papers here puts it toward the lower-middle of that band, though the included box and the model’s vibrant cult appeal help buoy interest.
As for this auction, ending tonight at 6:12 pm, the watch sits at the intersection of novelty, rarity, and B.R.M’s motorsport-obsessed identity. If you’re the type who wants a chronograph that looks like it drove through a paint fight at Le Mans—and you appreciate the handcrafted charm behind B.R.M’s deliberately polarizing style—this Art Car edition checks every box. If, however, you prefer your limited editions to have broad collectability or traditional value retention, this is more of a passion play than an investment strategy.
Either way, the V7-38-G “ART CAR” remains a bold reminder that not every watch is meant to whisper. Some are built to skid across the wrist at full throttle, tires smoking, colors flying.
Current bid: $1,000