BuyingTime Daily - December 29, 2025
Tariffs, a weaker dollar, and rising Swiss watch prices collide in our 2025 wrap-up—plus Tudor restraint, indie brilliance, sleeper hits, and year-end reviews.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe for December 29, 2025 closes out the year with a clear through-line: U.S. watch buyers are still paying the bill for tariffs and a weaker dollar, and Swiss watches are the receipt. Between elevated import duties and currency pressure during the Trump administration, year-over-year pricing on Swiss watches has moved decisively higher, turning what should have been modest annual increases into sticker shock across the board. Even as tariffs have eased from their peak, the cumulative damage is already baked in, leaving American collectors absorbing the cost of policy misfires one bezel click at a time.
Against that backdrop, TUDOR’s decision to limit 2026 U.S. price increases to roughly 4–8% stands out as a rare gesture of restraint. With more than 90% of its catalog clustered near the low end of that range, the brand is clearly trying to stay tethered to its core audience while other makers, including ROLEX, are expected to push closer to 7% on average. It’s a reminder that pricing strategy is now as much about optics as economics, especially in a market already fatigued by inflation and currency drag.
The secondary market continues to surge, fueled by collectors looking past boutiques to discover what watches are really worth once tariffs, margins, and marketing fall away. That growth has brought energy and new buyers into the fold, but it has also sharpened the importance of trust, condition clarity, and education—particularly as prices for historically important pieces keep climbing. In a tariff-distorted retail environment, the secondary market increasingly feels like the truth serum.
Creativity, meanwhile, remains alive and well at the high end. The finalists for the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives showcase just how far independents are pushing design and mechanics, while year-end reviews of sleeper watches, travel watches, pilot watches, dive watches, and vintage-inspired releases underline how deep 2025’s bench really was. From under-the-radar standouts like the ZENITH G.F.J. and NAOYA HIIDA’S hand-engraved perpetual calendar to accessible hits from CITIZEN and SEIKO, value and originality are still there if you know where to look.
Color and character had a moment too, with purple dials breaking out across brands from CHRONOSWISS to H. MOSER & CIE., while the weird and wonderful end of the spectrum proved that watch design can still have a sense of humor—even when tariffs don’t. Editorial reflections on haute horlogerie from GREUBEL FORSEY, deep dives into legends like the Valjoux 7750, and nostalgia-tinged histories such as Ruhla’s space-age chapter rounded out a year that rewarded curiosity over hype.
On the review front, new and notable watches kept wrists busy right up to year-end. Highlights included MAURICE LACROIX’s latest Label Noir collaboration, BLANCPAIN’s pink Fifty Fathoms that quietly challenged old assumptions, a return to aviation roots with BREGUET’s Type XX, everyday practicality from CITIZEN’s Nighthawk, refinement from the IWC Mark XX, and high complication bravado from PANERAI’s Luminor Perpetual Calendar. Together they reinforced the idea that, even as prices rise, substance still matters.
The takeaway as 2025 closes is simple: Swiss watches are more expensive in the U.S. not because they suddenly got better, but because policy and currency choices made them so. Collectors have adapted by becoming savvier, more selective, and more willing to look beyond the obvious. If there’s a silver lining, it’s that a tougher economic backdrop has refocused attention on design, mechanics, and long-term value—exactly where watch enthusiasm belongs. -Michael Wolf
News Time
Tudor limits 2026 price rises to 4-8%
Tudor plans to cap its 2026 U.S. price increases between 4% and 8%, keeping most steel models—over 90% of its catalog—closer to a 4.5% bump. More complex and precious-metal pieces, such as the gold Black Bay 58 on a gold bracelet, will see steeper jumps, with that model rising 7.9% to $39,400, while the carbon Black Bay Chrono moves 6% higher to $8,425. This approach suggests Tudor is trying to remain relatively accessible to core, middle‑class buyers even as costs rise. By contrast, Rolex is expected to raise prices by around 7% on average in the U.S., underscoring Tudor’s more conservative stance after several inflation- and tariff-driven hikes this year.
The secondary market is surging in growth, but is there still room to grow?
The secondary watch market has seen strong expansion as collectors chase high-demand models and historically important pieces beyond traditional retail channels. This growth is reshaping perceptions of value, revealing what watches are truly worth once they leave the boutique. At the same time, it is drawing in a new generation of enthusiasts who learn through auctions and specialist dealers. However, questions of authenticity, transparency, and consistent condition language remain, making trusted sellers and better education more important than ever.
Announced: The Finalists For The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize For Independent Creatives 2025–2026
The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives 2025–2026 has narrowed a global field of entries to 20 semifinalists and now five standout finalists. These watches are judged on design, technical innovation, craftsmanship, and creativity, with pieces like Daizoh Makihara’s petal-driven “Beauties of Nature” and Xinyan Dai’s compact bi-axis tourbillon “Möbius” showing how far independents can push the format. Other finalists, including Hazemann & Monnin, Bernhard Lederer, and Quiet Club, illustrate a spectrum from reimagined school watches to cutting-edge racing-inspired chronometry. The winner will receive a €150,000 grant and a year of hands-on mentorship, underlining that the prize is meant to support real development rather than just offer prestige.
Kari Voutilainen Steps Back at Urban Jürgensen
After four years steering the relaunch of Urban Jürgensen, Kari Voutilainen is stepping away from daily executive duties, leaving Alex Rosenfield as sole CEO. Voutilainen will remain deeply involved as a shareholder, board member, and senior strategic advisor, shifting focus from administration back toward watchmaking and product development. His history with the brand stretches back to its 1980s renaissance, and he was instrumental in its recent acquisition and repositioning. With UJ’s 2025 launch delivered and watches now reaching collectors, this transition is framed as a natural evolution that keeps Voutilainen’s design influence in place while empowering a dedicated management team to carry the brand forward.
Feature Time
A Time for Violet: The 6 Best Purple Watches of 2025
In 2025, purple emerged as a standout color in watch design, signaling creativity, luxury, and a bit of daring flair. Brands from Chronoswiss to H. Moser & Cie. embraced violet tones, pairing intricate mechanics with bold enamel or skeletonized dials. More experimental pieces like MB&F’s HM8 Mark 2 and Glashütte Original’s Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date “Plasma” show how purple can be both playful and refined. Together, these six watches demonstrate how a once-unusual color has become a serious canvas for modern horology.
Year in Review: the “Sleeper” Watches of 2025
This roundup highlights “sleeper” watches—pieces with exceptional design, movements, or finishing that remain under the radar of mainstream coverage. Examples include the Zenith G.F.J., whose intricate looks and platinum bracelet belie its lack of hype, and the Naoya Hida NH Type 6A with its beautifully hand‑engraved perpetual calendar. The Cornell Lozier raises questions about the future of American watchmaking with a design that recalls vintage Patek while standing on its own merits. More accessible entries like the Citizen Promaster Navihawk 40 show how compelling, wearable tool watches can still fly below enthusiast consciousness despite offering real value and personality.
Merry Christmas: Reflections on a Year in Horology
Christmas 2025 is framed as a rare pause that mirrors the reflective nature of serious watch collecting. The piece looks back on a year marked by milestones such as Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary and Greubel Forsey’s continued pursuit of extreme craftsmanship. Rather than focusing on hype, it celebrates collectors who prioritize innovation, finishing, and honest passion over speculation. The result is a reminder that both the holidays and horology are best enjoyed slowly, with appreciation for the details that endure.
Recap: The Best Pilot and Military Watches of 2025
Pilot and military watches remain popular in 2025 thanks to their legibility, robustness, and deep ties to aviation and military history. Highlights include the Bremont Altitude MB Meteor Stealth Grey with its meteorite dial, and IWC’s Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Miramar with a colorway inspired by real TOPGUN instructors. Longines, Panerai, and Tudor add their own takes, blending archival design cues with modern materials and specs. Collectively, these watches show how the genre can stay faithful to its roots while still evolving for contemporary wrists.
From the Editor: Greubel Forsey, the Watchmaking Atelier That Redefined Modern Haute Horlogerie
Greubel Forsey is profiled as a modern benchmark for high watchmaking, producing around 100 pieces a year with obsessive attention to detail. The article traces the brand’s 30 original calibres and innovations like the Double Tourbillon 30° and Nano Foudroyante, which push mechanical performance and finishing into rarefied territory. It also explores how the brand questions industry norms, from entering the sports-watch space to promoting sustainability and traditional handcraft via projects like “Naissance d’une Montre.” The portrait is of an atelier that treats each watch as a research project in both physics and artistry.
Team aBlogtoWatch’s Picks: The Weirdest Watches Of 2025
This feature gathers some of 2025’s strangest and most conversation-starting watches. On the haute end, pieces like the Hublot MP-17 MECA-10 Arsham Splash and Vacheron Constantin’s La Quête du Temps blend wild case shapes, sapphire constructions, and elaborate complications. More playful entries include Casio’s first mechanical Edifice EFK100 Automatic and the Y2K-flavored G-Shock GAV01A-8A, alongside a tongue-in-cheek Swatch What If…Tariffs? that riffs on the year’s trade news. Together they show how far designers are willing to stretch form and concept when they’re given permission to get weird.
Year in Review: the Best Travel Watches of 2025
Travel watches in 2025 span everything from affordable GMTs to sophisticated worldtimers, reflecting a renewed desire to explore after years of restricted movement. The Traska Venturer GMT and Dennison ALD Dual Time bring practical dual‑zone functionality to accessible price points, while Sinn and Nomos offer tougher and more refined options for frequent flyers. At the higher end, Ming’s 29.01 Midnight allows tracking of 24 time zones without sacrificing sleek design. Across the board, these watches combine technical utility with a romantic idea of motion and distance that digital screens can’t fully replace.
Fratello’s Top 5 Small-Brand Watches Of 2025 — Featuring Echo/Neutra, Laventure, Berneron, And More
Fratello spotlights five standout watches from small independent brands that punched above their weight in 2025. Echo/Neutra’s Rivanera Piccolo impresses with its titanium case and capable automatic movement, while Laventure’s Marine Type 3 stands out for its layered dial and strong wrist presence. Beda’a’s Angles Mecaline, Berneron’s Quantième Annuel, and the Dennison ALD Dual Time each add their own twist, from refined calendar work to playful dual‑time layouts. An honorable mention for Straum’s Jan Mayen limited edition reinforces just how much creative energy is coming from smaller ateliers right now.
Recap: The Best Dive Watches of 2025
Dive watches remain a cornerstone of many collections, and 2025 delivered a wide spectrum of noteworthy releases. Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms Automatic 38mm distills the brand’s heritage into a more wearable size, while Certina’s DS Action Diver offers serious specs at a relatively attainable price. Omega’s latest Seamaster Planet Ocean refresh and Seiko’s Prospex Marinemaster SLA081 push deeper into professional territory, joined by Tudor’s Pelagos Ultra with its advanced clasp and modern build. Together they show how the genre now serves everyone from saturation divers to desk divers who just love the aesthetic.
Long Live the Watch Nerds
Marking Revolution’s 20th anniversary, this piece argues for a return to knowledge-driven watch enthusiasm over speculation and influencer‑driven hype. It reflects on how watches went from niche obsession to lifestyle accessory, then calls for renewed focus on haute horlogerie and genuine craftsmanship. Brands like Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet are held up as examples of technical and artistic ambition that reward deep study. The article celebrates a community of collectors who care less about flipping and more about understanding what sits under the dial.
Recap: The Best Vintage-Inspired Watches of 2025
Vintage inspiration remained one of 2025’s richest veins, with brands revisiting iconic designs while updating movements and materials. Cartier’s Tank à Guichets Privé reinterprets a 1928 jumping‑hour classic, while Chronoswiss’s Neo Digiteur and Longines’ Ultra‑Chron Classic breathe new life into mid‑century digital and high‑beat designs. Omega’s Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 and Vacheron Constantin’s Historiques 222 in steel channel 1960s–70s sports watch energy in thoroughly modern packages. Zenith’s G.F.J. Calibre 135 crowns the trend with a limited run that honors one of the great chronometer movements of the 20th century.
A Legacy to be Proud of: A History of the Valjoux 7750
This article traces the Valjoux 7750 from its 1970s birth amid the quartz crisis to its status as one of the most important automatic chronograph calibres ever made. Designed by Edmond Capt’s team to be economical to produce, it used clever cam switching and modular thinking to survive an era hostile to mechanical movements. Revived in the 1980s, it went on to power chronographs from Breitling, IWC, and countless others, becoming a workhorse that enabled many brands to offer serious complications at accessible prices. Even as in‑house calibres proliferate and ETA supplies shrink, the 7750’s influence and reputation endure.
Ruhla: The East German Watch Brand That Went to Space
Ruhla’s story begins in a Soviet‑influenced corner of East Germany, where the brand became known for simple, mass‑produced movements like the minimalist Caliber 24. At its height in the 1960s, the factory employed thousands and exported large volumes of affordable watches beyond the GDR. The brand’s cult status was cemented when cosmonaut Sigmund Jähn carried four Ruhla watches into space in 1978 as part of the Interkosmos program. Though the marque later faded, its 2023 revival with a replica of that space‑flown watch reconnects a forgotten chapter of horology with its cosmic moment.
Year in Review: Predictions for 2026
Looking ahead, the piece forecasts that independent brands will continue to flourish, especially with elegant time‑only watches featuring finely decorated movements. There is also an expectation that larger brands will respond with their own minimalist offerings at varying price points. Major anniversaries, including 100 years of the Rolex Oyster and 50 years of the Nautilus, are poised to shape the narrative and product launches of 2026. Meanwhile, increasingly sophisticated Chinese watchmakers are expected to compete more directly, provided they can match strong technical execution with compelling storytelling.
Fratello Talks: Horological Highlights Of 2025
In this season‑ending podcast episode, the Fratello team reviews the standout watches and stories that defined 2025. Hosts RJ, Daan, and Nacho revisit favorites like the Rolex GMT‑Master II and Echo/Neutra’s Rivanera Piccolo while discussing technical milestones such as Breguet’s Experimentale 1 with its magnetic escapement. They also touch on macro themes, including how tariffs and economic headwinds shaped the market over the year. The conversation doubles as both a recap and a warm send‑off, inviting listeners to savor the year’s achievements before turning to 2026.
Insiders & Collectors On the 50 Watches They Loved In 2025 (From Rare Rolexes to the Tissot RockWatch)
This feature gathers voices from across the collecting world to share the watches that meant the most to them in 2025. Picks range from high horology, such as Patek Philippe ref. 1518 and Breguet Tradition pieces, to more accessible but emotionally charged models like the Tissot RockWatch and Rolex Lady‑Datejust. Many collectors emphasize how personal history, milestones, and aesthetics matter just as much as rarity or price. The article underscores that collecting is ultimately about the stories and connections that watches create, not just the references themselves.
Casual Wear: Close-Up with the Citizen “Tsuyosa” Collection
Citizen’s Tsuyosa line is profiled as a breakout hit that delivers integrated‑bracelet style at an entry‑level mechanical price point. With its 40 mm case, colorful dials, and 1970s‑inspired silhouette, it offers a versatile look that feels more expensive than its ~$450 tag. Inside, the Miyota 8210 provides reliable automatic performance and a 40‑hour power reserve, reinforcing the watch’s everyday practicality. Minor quibbles aside, the collection is presented as a strong gateway into mechanical watches for newcomers and a fun, low‑risk addition for seasoned collectors.
Cronografo Capitale: Close-up with the Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph
The Octo Roma Chronograph extends Bulgari’s architectural Octo language into a robust, 100‑meter‑rated sports chronograph. Powered by the in‑house Caliber BVL 399, it offers central chronograph seconds plus 30‑minute and 12‑hour counters, all set against a refreshed hobnail dial that improves legibility. The case retains the collection’s mix of circular and octagonal geometry, with integrated pushers that preserve the clean profile. Thanks to interchangeable bracelet and rubber strap options, it can move from dressy to casual with ease, positioning it as a potential commercial cornerstone in Bulgari’s lineup.
The most interesting Omega watch of 2025, that hasn’t actually released... yet
This piece dives into the hype around a teased Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph tied to the James Bond universe. Seen briefly in the trailer for an upcoming Bond video game, the watch appears to feature red “Seamaster” text, bronze‑gold accents, and a titanium case with ceramic pushers. Fans speculate it could blend elements from past America’s Cup and Bond editions into something new. Until Omega officially reveals it, the model exists in a liminal space between screen and reality, fueling speculation about what the next Bond‑adjacent Seamaster will look like.
A Year on the Wrist – the best watches we’ve seen in 2025, including Grand Seiko, TAG Heuer, Leica and more
This year‑end roundup surveys 2025’s most memorable watches across a broad spectrum of brands and price points. Standouts include high‑end pieces like the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Daymatic Honeygold and Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Quest of Time, alongside inventive releases from Grand Seiko, TAG Heuer, and others. The article also highlights playful collaborations such as G‑Shock x Crocs and character‑driven limited editions that capture pop‑culture moments. Overall, it paints 2025 as a year where technical sophistication, design experimentation, and fun all coexisted on the wrist.
The three Seiko releases of 2025 that actually mattered
Focusing on substance over sheer volume, this article singles out three Seiko releases that best captured the brand’s strengths in 2025. The Marinemaster Professional SLA081 is praised for its titanium build, textured dial, and serious dive credentials anchored by the 8L45 movement. The “Kranz Junior” Seiko 5 Sports SRPL91/SRPL93 revives a historically significant design tied to Apollo 13’s Gene Kranz, modernized with upgraded specs. Finally, the Prospex Speedtimer SPB513 brings a dual‑crown layout and inner timing bezel, showing how Seiko can reinterpret its own archives in fresh, functional ways.
Fair & Square: 5 Squarish Watches to Know
Square and cushion‑shaped watches are showcased here as compelling alternatives to traditional round cases. The TAG Heuer Monaco leads with its motorsport pedigree and modern skeletonized dial, while Mondaine’s Cushion Collection adapts its iconic railway aesthetic into softened geometries. Vacheron Constantin’s Historiques American 1921 remains the archetypal driver’s watch, angled for easy reading at the wheel, and Bell & Ross’s BR 03-92 Diver proves that the square form can still meet dive standards. Rounding out the list, the Apple Watch Ultra 2 shows how a contemporary “squarish” smartwatch can be both rugged and highly connected.
My Watch Market Predictions for 2026
The author reflects on a difficult 2025 but finds reasons for optimism heading into 2026, especially after U.S. tariffs on watches were cut from 39% to 15%. That policy shift has re‑energized retailers and buyers, making high‑end pieces feel more attainable again. Looking forward, the forecast calls for a more stable U.S. market, even as geopolitics may limit growth in other regions. Collectors are expected to lean into comfort, authenticity, and narrative, favoring brands that tell strong stories over purely speculative plays.
Meet the GQ 2025 Watch Collector of the Year, Who Finally Found the Perfect “Paul Newman” Daytona
GQ’s 2025 Watch Collector of the Year, Lex Borrero, is profiled as both a serious enthusiast and community builder through projects like the Miami Watch Club. His collecting journey traces a path from youth fascination with G‑Shock and Jacob & Co. to a deeper engagement with brands such as Audemars Piguet, Cartier, and vintage Rolex. The culmination is his acquisition of a Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytona that aligns perfectly with his personal taste and story. Alongside Borrero, the feature salutes other influential collectors who use their knowledge and passion to bring more people into the fold.
Event Time
Watches, Wine, And Letting Taste Lead: Sommelier Jhonel Faelnar With TanTan Wang At UBS House Of Craft
The final UBS House of Craft session brought together sommelier Jhonel Faelnar and TanTan Wang for a conversation that bridged the worlds of wine and watches. Faelnar emphasized that true collecting is a personal journey, centered on meaningful individual bottles rather than the size of a cellar. He argued that taste develops through lived experiences and emotional connections, not just technical knowledge or status. The discussion highlighted shared values of patience, nuance, and craftsmanship, offering a thoughtful close to the series.
The Latest Time
Maurice Lacroix
Introducing the Latest Collaboration Between Maurice Lacroix and Label Noir
The Maurice Lacroix Label Noir Aikon Manufacture Skeleton is a bold 45mm black DLC-coated stainless steel watch that puts its skeletonized ML234 automatic movement on full display. Its translucent black varnished dial and vivid turquoise accents create strong visual contrast, while 100 meters of water resistance keeps it practical for everyday wear. A limited edition of just 100 pieces, it is priced at $8,500 USD, and comes with both a gray leather strap and a turquoise rubber option to shift between subtle and statement looks. As the third collaboration between Maurice Lacroix and Label Noir, it continues their streak of colorful, design-forward limited editions aimed at collectors who enjoy daring aesthetics.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Blancpain
Hands-On With Blancpain’s Pink Fifty Fathoms “For Women”
The pink Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique ref. 5007 12B44R NAFA takes the serious dive-watch formula and applies a playful pink mother-of-pearl dial without compromising performance. At 38 mm, with a titanium case and 300 meters of water resistance, it remains every bit a capable tool watch backed by an in-house automatic movement. The design leans into individuality and color while preserving excellent legibility under water. It also challenges outdated gender labeling in watch design, treating pink as an expression of personality rather than a limiting category.
Breguet
Maiden Flight: Spotlight on Breguet Type XX
This review traces the Breguet Type XX back to its 1950s roots, when it was built to strict French Air Force specifications for military pilots. Modern versions like the Type XX Chronographe Ref. 2067 and Type 20 Chronographe Ref. 2057 preserve the essential DNA—high legibility, flyback capability, and robustness—while adding refined finishing and upgraded movements. The latest calibres use silicon components for improved durability and precision, along with generous power reserves. The result is a contemporary pilot’s chronograph that honors its aviation heritage while feeling fully up to date for both military-inspired and civilian use.
Citizen
Citizen Nighthawk Review: The Affordable GMT I Bought Twice
The blacked‑out JDM Citizen Nighthawk stands out as a bold, budget‑friendly GMT with a strong wrist presence thanks to its 42.5 mm black ion‑plated case. Its busy but well‑organized dial, E6B slide rule bezel, and 200 meters of water resistance make it a highly functional tool watch despite the use of a flat mineral crystal. Inside, the solar‑powered Eco‑Drive B877 movement delivers reliable quartz accuracy and long autonomy between light exposures. At $488 USD, it offers distinctive style and capability that can win over collectors even on a second encounter.
IWC
The Iconic Pilot: A Watch Test of the IWC Mark XX
The IWC Mark XX updates the brand’s classic pilot’s watch formula with a 40 mm case, rhodium‑plated hands, and a clean white date disk for optimal legibility. Powered by the Caliber 32111 with an impressive 120‑hour power reserve, it adds modern tech and a quick‑change strap system to a very traditional design. Water resistance is bumped up to 100 meters, enhancing its usefulness as an everyday watch. Priced at $5,250 USD, the Mark XX offers a compelling mix of historical lineage, practical specs, and contemporary refinement.
Panerai
Hands On: Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar PAM01575
The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575 pairs a 44 mm Platinumtech case and military‑inspired styling with a highly sophisticated P.4100 perpetual calendar movement. Its dial layout is intentionally restrained, prioritizing clarity and ease of reading over showing off every function on the front. The movement, hidden beneath a sapphire dial, delivers twin barrels, a micro‑rotor for automatic winding, a GMT hand, and a 72‑hour power reserve, all adjustable via the crown. At $75,000 USD, it is a statement piece that blends Panerai’s tool‑watch roots with high complications aimed at serious collectors.
Comparing Time
Sunday Morning Showdown: A Look Back At Our Favorite Battles Of 2025
This retrospective revisits 49 Sunday Morning Showdowns from 2025, highlighting the most memorable head‑to‑head battles between enthusiast‑favorite watches. Standout clashes include the Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite versus the Jaeger‑LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar, where JLC won decisively, and a rare tie between the Mido Multifort 8 Two Crowns and Baltic Aquascaphe Dual‑Crown. Other results saw the Speedmaster Moonwatch defeat the Rolex Daytona and the Grand Seiko Kiri best the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 “Lavender.” The piece celebrates the spirited debates in the comments and invites readers to suggest fresh matchups for 2026.
Can Orient Outdo Omega? Affordable Dive Watch vs Luxury Dive Watch
This comparison pits the Orient Mako II against the Omega Seamaster 300M to explore how a budget dive watch stacks up against a luxury icon. The Mako II, priced around $140–$240, focuses on straightforward robustness with its in‑house F6922 movement, sunburst dial, and comfortable everyday wearability. The Seamaster 300M, at roughly $5,600–$5,900, counters with METAS‑certified precision, high‑end finishing, and advanced engineering aimed at enthusiasts who value refinement and prestige. While the Omega is superior technically, the article argues that the Mako II delivers outstanding value and a satisfying ownership experience for buyers who prioritize practicality over status.
Watching Time
HUGE Rolex & Tudor Price Increases in 2026
Luxury Watches have been in DECLINE: Is Luxury Watch Quality Getting WORSE?
2025 Watch industry Roundup: Best, Worst & Tariffs
Will Watch Brands Lower Prices? Best Value Independent Watchmakers? Q&A
Georges Kern on Reviving Universal Genève, Quiet Luxury and Modern Watchmaking
THE BEST WATCHES OF 2025! (plus a couple of surprising disappointments)
Talking Time
SJX Podcast: Best of 2025 – Complications
Episode 22 of the SJX Podcast reviews the notable complicated watches from 2025, highlighting major releases from brands like Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Lange, Blancpain, and Chopard. Key highlights include Lange's black enamel minute repeater perpetual calendar, Blancpain's Grande Double Sonnerie, and Audemars Piguet's RD#5 perpetual calendar, marking significant anniversaries and innovative designs in the watch industry.
The Business of Watches Podcast: Audemars Piguet CEO Ilaria Resta Drives Double-Digit Sales Increase For Brand's 150th Anniversary Year
Ilaria Resta, CEO of Audemars Piguet, successfully increased sales by 12% during the brand's 150th anniversary year despite industry challenges such as U.S. tariffs and high gold prices. The podcast discusses notable product releases, production management, and strategies to attract the next generation of clients.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Last Thursday’s auction watch, the 2025 Rolex Submariner Date Desk Clock 80MM Quartz Black Dial (909010LN)- was bid to $13,400 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2018 Vacheron Constantin Overseas “Panda” 42.5MM Black Dial Steel Bracelet (5500V/110A-B481)
Auction Report: Auction Report Title: The “Other” Panda That’s Actually a Killer Deal — Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph 5500V/110A-B481
If you’ve been living through the never-ending “integrated steel sports watch” era (and who hasn’t), the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph has always been the connoisseur’s answer to the obvious choices. This 2018 Overseas “Panda” (ref. 5500V/110A-B481) lands right in that sweet spot: modern proportions, genuinely high-end finishing, real-world water resistance, and a chronograph movement that’s built like it means it. In this listing the seller calls it very good condition and, importantly, it’s a proper full set with inner/outer boxes, extras, and papers dated 2018—exactly the kind of completeness that matters when you eventually decide you’re “just thinning the collection,” not selling.
The watch itself is the Overseas formula at full volume: a 42.5mm steel case and bracelet with that signature bezel architecture that reads instantly as Vacheron Constantin without trying too hard. The dial is the main event here—black with three ivory chronograph subdials that give it the panda look (yes, even if it’s technically an “inverse panda” to some people who own too many opinions). Legibility is excellent thanks to luminous hands and markers, a practical 60-minute scale around the edge, and a date tucked between 4 and 5 o’clock so it doesn’t bulldoze the symmetry. The case is rated to 150 meters, which is the polite way of saying you can wear it like an actual sports watch instead of treating it like a nervous museum object.
Under the hood is Vacheron Constantin’s in-house caliber 5200, a modern automatic chronograph built around a column wheel with a vertical clutch—aka the “do it right” architecture for smooth starts and serious use. It runs at 4Hz and is designed with twin barrels and a power reserve in the low-50-hour range, which is a nice reminder that this watch is more than a pretty dial and a bracelet. Some coverage also notes anti-magnetic protection via a soft-iron casing ring—one of those hidden practical upgrades that you’ll never brag about but will quietly appreciate.
Now the part everyone pretends not to care about until they care about it: value. WatchCharts currently pegs the pre-owned “market price” for the 5500V/110A-B481 at about $24,416 (as of December 27, 2025), with a market range that roughly spans the low-$20Ks into the mid-$20Ks depending on condition and set completeness. On Chrono24, live listings for this reference are scattered from the low-to-mid $20Ks up into the $30Ks, which usually tells you two things: (1) the market is real, and (2) some sellers are pricing their optimism. With a 2018 full set in very good condition, you’re shopping closer to the “real number” than the “wish number,” and that’s exactly where you want to be heading into the closing bell.
Bottom line: this Overseas Chronograph is what you buy when you want the integrated-bracelet look and status, but you also want a movement and finishing that can stare down the category leaders without blinking. If the bidding stays near the current market neighborhood, it’s a smart purchase; if it runs well past the mid-$20Ks, you’ll want to remind yourself that there are always more Overseas out there—and far fewer good deals.
The auction ends tonight at 10:26pm (Monday, December 29, 2025), so set your max, pour something calming, and try not to “win” by overpaying out of sheer late-night adrenaline.
Current bid: $13,521