BuyingTime Daily - December 24, 2025
No new releases, but plenty to chew on: year-end lists, iconic collectors, smart reviews, and holiday reflections as watchmaking winds down 2025.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe for December 24, 2025 lands with a distinctly holiday-eve rhythm: lots of reflection, plenty of year-end lists, and notably no brand-new watches debuting today. That absence is worth mentioning in itself, because it reinforces a theme that’s echoed across several of today’s stories—2025 was less about relentless novelty and more about refinement, wearability, and thoughtful design. On the review front, however, there was no shortage of wrist time, with hands-on coverage of purpose-built tool chronographs.
On the business side, Britain’s historic jeweler Pragnell crossed a meaningful milestone, topping £100 million in annual sales for the first time. While profits softened under the weight of higher operating costs, the shift toward a predominantly domestic customer base and the opening of its Embassy showroom underscore how traditional retailers are recalibrating in a post-Brexit, post-tourism world. The space doubles down on serious watchmaking credentials, spotlighting brands like ROLEX and PATEK PHILIPPE alongside independents and pre-owned inventory, signaling where luxury retail momentum continues to live.
The historical lens came sharply into focus with a deep dive into Henry Graves Jr., the patron saint of complicated collecting. His legendary PATEK PHILIPPE Supercomplication remains a reminder that personal obsession and technical ambition once pushed watchmaking into genuinely uncharted territory, long before “money no object” became a marketing category. Speaking of modern taste, Fratello’s best-of-2025 selections painted a broad and encouraging picture, with standouts from MING, PARMIGIANI FLEURIER, AQUASTAR, PANERAI, and ARNOLD & SON, suggesting that comfort, clarity, and personality mattered just as much as specs this year.
Brand versatility was on display in curated three-watch collections from TUDOR, while a survey of meteorite-dial watches reminded us that even literal pieces of outer space can be deployed tastefully by brands like ROLEX, OMEGA, BREITLING, and NORQAIN. Year-end recaps continued with dress watches, chronographs, and extravagant “money no object” pieces from houses including BREGUET, CHOPARD, VACHERON CONSTANTIN, AUDEMARS PIGUET, and TAG HEUER, reinforcing that traditional categories are evolving without abandoning their roots.
At the independent and emerging end, a thoughtful profile of Tokyo-based Quiet Club stood out for its refusal to chase volume or hype, while broader industry commentary questioned whether legacy brands can still rely purely on name recognition in an increasingly informed and selective market. Practical watchmaking also had its moment, with praise for integrated-bracelet watches that actually deliver from TISSOT, CHRISTOPHER WARD, and MAURICE LACROIX, and video content highlighting what collectors truly wore most this year rather than what sat in the safe.
Reviews rounded out the day with hands-on impressions of the unexpectedly elegant CASIO G-SHOCK G-STEEL, the heritage-driven PORSCHE DESIGN Chronograph 1. Together, they reinforced that there are many valid ways to think about utility, design, and fun in modern watchmaking.
There were no new watches released today, but there was plenty to read, watch, and reflect on—and that feels appropriate for December 24. The next issue of Buying Time will be out Monday, December 29th. Until then, wishing everyone a happy, safe, and relaxed holiday, with good company, good food, and maybe a favorite watch on the wrist or a favorite clock on the desk. -Michael Wolf
News Time
Sales for birthplace of Shakespeare jeweler top £100 million for first time
Pragnell, the Stratford-Upon-Avon jeweler, has reached record sales of £100.5 million for the 2024–25 financial year, making it the sixth largest jeweler in the UK. Revenue grew 6%, but operating profit fell 11% to £8 million as the company absorbed higher costs tied to an expanding retail footprint and changing market conditions. The business has pivoted from relying on international tourists to serving primarily domestic clients, with 86% of turnover now coming from UK customers following post-Brexit VAT changes. Its new showroom, The Embassy, strengthens Pragnell’s position in the luxury watch space by showcasing brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and key independents, alongside a growing pre-owned offering and additional retail units that deepen customer engagement.
Feature Time
Complicated Collectors: Henry Graves Jr.
Henry Graves Jr. was a legendary collector whose New York apartment at 834 Fifth Avenue housed some of the most important Patek Philippe timepieces ever made, including the famed Supercomplication. That watch featured an astronomical display tailored to the night sky above his Manhattan residence, underscoring his obsession with precision and artistry. After Graves passed away in 1953, his collection was dispersed, with the Supercomplication later achieving record auction prices and cementing its status as a horological icon. His story illustrates how personal taste, wealth, and watchmaking innovation can intersect to leave a lasting legacy.
Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2025 — Mike’s Picks From Ming, Parmigiani Fleurier, Aquastar, And More
This annual roundup highlights a diverse set of 2025 standouts, from the Ming 37.11 Odyssey with its distinctive Polymesh bracelet to the elegant Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF 36mm in Stone Blue. Toolish and dive-oriented pieces like the Aquastar Benthos Professional and Ollech & Wajs OW C-1000 Y make the list for their robustness and character. Panerai’s Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 marks a welcome return to simpler, more purposeful design, while the limited Arnold & Son Constant Force Tourbillon 11 represents the haute horlogerie end of the spectrum. Together, these choices paint 2025 as a year where comfort, wearability, and thoughtful design were just as important as specs and price.
We pick our three-watch Tudor collections for 2025
The Time+Tide team each assemble their ideal three-watch Tudor collections, revealing how one brand can cover everything from daily wear to weekend adventures. Jamie focuses on versatility with the Black Bay Pro as a go-anywhere GMT, the Pelagos Ultra for serious diving, and the champagne-dialled 1926 Luna for dressier occasions. Tom leans into heritage and utility with the Pelagos LHD, Pelagos FXD Chrono, and a “Polar” Black Bay Pro for social settings. Zach’s picks skew stylish and bold, pairing the compact Black Bay 54 with the colorful Black Bay Chrono “Pink” and the precious-metal Black Bay 58 Gold to show how Tudor can satisfy both practical and indulgent tastes.
The 6 Best Watches with Meteorite Dials of 2025
This piece surveys six standout watches that use genuine meteorite dials to bring literal pieces of space to the wrist. Models like the Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin 41 and Rolex Cosmograph Daytona leverage the natural Widmanstätten patterns for striking, one-of-a-kind aesthetics. Omega’s Speedmaster Moonphase and Norqain’s Independence Wild One pair their cosmic dials with designs rooted in space exploration and adventure. Formex’s Essence Space Ghost and the Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 co-designed with Erling Haaland round out the list, proving meteorite can work across dressy, sporty, and travel-ready platforms.
[Video] These Are The Most Worn Watches By The Fratello Team In 2025
In this holiday video recap, members of the Fratello team share the watches they actually wore most in 2025, revealing the emotional and practical reasons behind each choice. Nacho gravitates toward his Omega Seamaster Professional 300M, while Robert-Jan splits affection between a gold Speedmaster Apollo XI and a Rolex GMT-Master II. Daan’s Cartier Santos Galbée XL represents a more dressy staple, and other team members highlight everything from vintage Rolex pieces to an inherited IWC Mark XV and a well-loved Gallet chronograph. The segment doubles as both a year-end wrist-check and a warm seasonal greeting to viewers.
Meet Quiet Club, And The Debut Watch That Offers A New Way Of Thinking About Time
Quiet Club is a new Tokyo-based brand whose debut watch, Fading Hours, is designed by award-winning watchmaker Norifumi Seki and built around a thoughtful, minimalist concept of time. Instead of piling on complications, it features a purpose-built alarm mechanism and clean dial details, including Morse code markers and an ergonomic case that prioritizes comfort. The founders, drawing on backgrounds in automotive engineering and tech design, position the watch as a high-end object (around $85,000) produced at an extremely low volume of about ten pieces per year. Their aim is to blend Japanese craft, cross-continental collaboration, and contemplative design into a genuinely different kind of independent watch.
Can established titans of watchmaking still simply rely on brand power?
This discussion argues that big-name watch brands can no longer coast on reputation alone as younger, digitally savvy buyers prioritize craftsmanship, value, and authenticity over logos. Panelists at the FHH Watch Summit New York note that consumers now arrive better informed and less emotionally attached to traditional prestige, opening doors for newer brands with compelling products and pricing. Comfort and wearability increasingly trump pure aesthetics, while high prices and hard-to-get models push some clients toward approachable independents. Established houses face a choice: better align with modern expectations and transparency, or risk ceding ground to more agile competitors.
3 Integrated Bracelet Watches That Surprisingly Don’t Suck
This article highlights three integrated-bracelet watches that deliver strong everyday performance without the usual compromises. The Tissot PRX offers an affordable, robust package with a clean blue dial and comfortable case and bracelet, despite lume that weakens quickly. Christopher Ward’s The Twelve 36mm in titanium brings lightweight comfort and sharp finishing, though its quick-release system and dial legibility have minor quirks. Rounding out the trio, the Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic impresses with its bracelet and 200m water resistance, even if its movement feels basic relative to the rest of the watch.
Recap: The Best Dress Watches of 2025
Dress watches made a strong showing in 2025, led by pieces like the Breguet Souscription 2025, which nods to antique pocket watches while marking the brand’s 250th anniversary. Chopard’s L.U.C Quattro Mark IV and the Daniel Roth Extra-Plat in rose gold combine refined proportions with beautifully finished movements, while Laurent Ferrier’s Classic Origin Beige charms with its warm red gold and soft-toned dial. Patek Philippe’s Calatrava 6196P updates a classic with fresh detailing, and Rolex’s Perpetual 1908 introduces the Settimo bracelet to inject new energy into its dress line. Together, these watches show how traditional formal styles can evolve without losing their timeless character.
Recap: The Best Chronograph Watches of 2025
The best chronographs of 2025 span vintage-inspired charm and cutting-edge tech. Angelus’s Chronographe Télémètre stands out for its compact, historically styled package and high-grade movement, while Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Jumbo Chronograph RD#5 squeezes a serious chrono into the iconic Jumbo format. Breguet’s Type XX Chronograph 2075 brings a modern lens to an aviation classic, and Montblanc’s 1858 Split Second Chronograph dazzles with a rich burgundy dial and intricate split-second mechanics. TAG Heuer’s Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring adds experimental carbon hairspring technology, underlining how the complication continues to serve as a showcase for innovation.
Year in Review: the Best “Money No Object” Watches of 2025
This roundup surveys 2025’s most extravagant “money no object” watches, where price is secondary to mechanical ambition and artistry. Standouts include the Gérald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater and Chopard L.U.C. Grand Strike, both marrying complex chiming mechanisms with refined design. Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication pushes the limits of what can be packed into a wristwatch, while Breguet’s Experimentale 1 showcases a novel magnetic escapement concept. Ferdinand Berthoud’s Naissance d’une Montre 3, painstakingly hand-built with a fusée-and-chain system, anchors the list as a testament to traditional craft, with even a tongue‑in‑cheek Swatch release reminding readers of the year’s broader pricing debates.
The Latest Time
No new watches today.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Casio
Casio G-Shock G-STEEL GSTB1000D Review: Can A G-Shock Be Elegant?
The Casio G-Shock G-STEEL GSTB1000D pushes the brand toward a more refined aesthetic while preserving its hallmark toughness. A thin bezel and a case made from carbon fiber–reinforced resin and stainless steel give it a sleeker profile, yet it still offers 200 meters of water resistance, Tough Solar charging, and Bluetooth connectivity. Priced at $440, it sits in the mid-tier of the G-Shock range and competes favorably with full-metal models, thanks to its solid stainless steel bracelet and tapered, dressier look. Multiple dial color options and the user-friendly Module 5748 make it a versatile choice for both casual and more formal settings.
Porsche Design
Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Review: The Watch Designed By The Creator Of The Porsche 911
The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 traces its roots back to 1972, when Ferdinand Alexander Porsche created it as a functional companion to the 911 sports car. The modern All Black Edition uses a titanium case and bracelet with a black titanium carbide coating, combining durability, comfort, and a high-contrast dial for excellent legibility. Inside, the in-house WERK 01.140 movement delivers robust chronograph performance with a 48-hour power reserve, even if it lacks features like a flyback function or extended power reserve found in some rivals. At $9,650, it targets enthusiasts who value the watch’s design heritage, automotive connection, and tool-first philosophy over purely luxury positioning.
Watching Time
The Fratello Team’s Most-Worn Watches Of 2025
I Found 5 Watch Complications That Shouldn’t Be Possible
GREY MARKET Best of 2025 Compilation!
Balling on a Budget: The Cheapest Tourbillon That Actually Doesn’t Suck
This is the First Affordable Watch Brand to do This with a Tourbillon
Talking Time
SJX Podcast: Best of 2025 – Independent Watchmaking
Episode 21 of the SJX Podcast discusses the state of independent watchmaking in 2025, highlighting the trend of fewer genuinely new releases than anticipated. Many established brands chose to focus on variations of existing models instead of introducing bold innovations. However, the few standout pieces, such as Urban Jürgensen’s remarkable relaunch led by Kari Voutilainen and two exceptional time-only watches, demonstrate that originality still has a place in a crowded market. Additionally, the episode explores noteworthy calendar watches from brands like Greubel Forsey, Konstantin Chaykin, and Berneron, emphasizing their significance in an otherwise conservative year for the industry. Listeners can access the episode on major platforms like Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube, providing insights into the evolving landscape of independent horology.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Tuesday’s auction watch, the Rare Blancpain Le Brassus GMT Platinum L.E. 42MM Silver Dial Leather Strap (4276-3442A-55B)- was bid to $11,200 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2025 Rolex Submariner Date Desk Clock 80MM Quartz Black Dial (909010LN)
Auction Report Title: The Office-Dweller Flex — 2025 Rolex Submariner Date Desk Clock Ref. 909010LN
If you’ve ever looked at your wrist and thought, “This Submariner is great, but what if it were the size of a cinnamon roll and lived on my desk,” Rolex has you covered. The Submariner Date Desk Clock (ref. 909010LN) takes the modern Sub aesthetic—black dial, Cyclops date, black ceramic bezel—and scales it up to an 80mm, countertop-ready statement piece that’s equal parts timekeeper and conversation starter. It’s a real catalog item with an official reference number, and Rolex lists the U.S. retail price at $10,270.
This example is represented by the seller as new and comes as a full, collector-friendly set: inner and outer boxes, the special silver-toned inner box, additional items, and papers dated November 12, 2025. That matters here because these desk clocks have quickly become allocation-adjacent objects, and “full set” is already doing heavy lifting in resale pricing. These pieces are sold through authorized Rolex monobrand points of sale, which helps explain why secondary-market buyers are paying up for immediate gratification.
On the technical side, this isn’t just a novelty shell. The clock is powered by a Rolex quartz caliber and features a purpose-built case construction with thoughtful access to the movement module and a digital calendar display adjusted via crown and correctors. As with most things Rolex, it’s unapologetically over-engineered for something that could have been far simpler—and that’s precisely the point.
Now to value. Retail sits at $10,270, but early market behavior has been decisive. Public results and private sales have clustered well above MSRP, with examples trading in the high teens and occasionally pushing into the low $20,000 range depending on completeness and venue. A new, full-set piece with late-2025 papers is exactly what bidders are chasing, and timing matters: the auction ends at 10:10 pm on Wednesday, December 24, 2025, which puts this squarely in last-minute holiday territory.
That’s what makes this lot particularly interesting. For the Rolex diehard in your life—the collector who already has the Sub, the GMT, and the Daytona but still wants something unexpected—this desk clock might be the most on-brand Christmas present imaginable. It’s unmistakably Rolex, wildly unnecessary, and guaranteed to dominate whatever desk, credenza, or bookcase it lands on. In other words, it’s not just a clock; it’s a holiday flex wrapped in green.
Current bid: $6,666