BuyingTime Daily - December 22, 2025
Tariffs bite, trust tech rises, Titan goes haute, Omega clocks TGL, Cartier flexes in the UK, and a thinking collector’s Nautilus anchors the auction watchlist.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Here’s your Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe for December 22, 2025 — a day that neatly captured where the watch world is headed, and where it’s still trying to clean up its messes.
The secondary market continues its long march toward adulthood with platforms like Collected.io aiming to bring fintech-style structure to pre-owned watches. Built by Fog City Vintage founder Tim Bender, the service swaps commissions for flat dealer fees and focuses on contracts, disclosure, and workflow discipline. The most interesting piece is the upcoming Ledger feature, which promises a Carfax-like history for watches. If it works, it could quietly change how trust is earned in a market that’s historically relied on vibes, DMs, and crossed fingers.
Meanwhile, Swiss export data delivered a gut punch. Shipments to the U.S. fell more than 52 percent in November after tariffs briefly jumped to 39 percent, even though they’ve since eased back to 15 percent. ROLEX, PATEK PHILIPPE, and CARTIER remain resilient at the top end, but the middle is feeling the pain. As exports grow in markets like the UK, UAE, and Canada, the numbers reinforce a simple reality: global demand is shifting, and the U.S. is no longer carrying the load by default.
From India came one of the more interesting ambition plays of the year. TITAN’s Jalsa is a limited, hand-crafted tourbillon aimed squarely at wealthy domestic collectors, blending haute horology with Indian artistic identity. It’s a signal that as India’s luxury market matures, its biggest watchmaker wants to be part of the global conversation, not just a regional one.
On the branding front, OMEGA landed as Official Timekeeper of the TGL golf league, embedding itself in a faster, more media-driven version of the sport just as the league’s second season kicks off. With ambassadors Rory McIlroy and Wyndham Clark already involved, it’s a tidy alignment of precision, performance, and modern spectacle.
At the same time, CARTIER posted a quiet flex in the UK, topping £250 million in annual sales for the first time and growing profits faster than its parent group. Heavy investment in real estate and boutiques continues to pay off, and watches now account for roughly a quarter to a third of the brand’s business, firmly anchoring its momentum.
That boutique strategy isn’t unique. Across the industry, monobrand stores keep multiplying as watchmakers double down on tightly controlled brand worlds. It’s great for storytelling and atmosphere, less great for comparison shopping, and its long-term success will hinge on whether service and experience truly justify the narrower lens.
Creatively, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS offered a reminder that watchmaking doesn’t have to be purely technical to be serious. A look inside its ateliers showed how narrative, artistry, and mechanical experimentation coexist, producing watches that feel closer to wearable poetry than instruments.
Rounding out the day were reflections on world timers, standout watches of 2025, the enduring pull of the ROLEX Daytona Paul Newman Panda, and ongoing debates about what makes a modern watch “iconic.” If there was a unifying theme, it was maturity: markets stabilizing, collectors getting more selective, and brands realizing that trust, storytelling, and substance matter more than ever as 2026 approaches.
News Time
Swiss watch exports to USA plunge by 52%
Swiss watch exports to the United States fell by 52.3% in November after tariffs pushed import costs up by 39%, dealing a major blow to the market. Although the tariff rate has since been cut to 15%, overall U.S. sales are still down 2.1% year-to-date. Luxury leaders like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Cartier continue to see strong demand, but many other brands are losing ground. Meanwhile, exports to markets like the UK, UAE, and Canada are growing, underscoring a shift in global demand even as total Swiss exports decline in both value and volume.
How Collected Is Aiming to Bring Fintech-Level Trust to the Wild West of Pre-Owned Watches
Tim Bender, founder of Fog City Vintage, created Collected.io after seeing how unreliable many pre-owned watch transactions could be. Working with designer Zach Scott, he built a platform that uses contracts, structured workflows, and community features to bring transparency and security to both dealers and buyers. Instead of taking a cut of each sale, Collected charges dealers a flat access fee for automated tools like messaging, a community board, and a Vault to manage purchases. A forthcoming “Ledger” feature aims to standardize disclosures and create a Carfax-style record for each watch, pushing the secondary market toward more accountability and trust.
As India Gets Richer Its Biggest Watchmaker Titan Crafts The Nation’s Most Ambitious Watch Yet
Titan is moving upmarket with the Jalsa, a limited-edition haute horlogerie piece aimed at affluent Indian collectors. Made in 18-karat rose gold with a hand-painted marble dial by artist Shakir Ali, the watch highlights Indian cultural motifs and craftsmanship. It features a hand-wound tourbillon movement and a sapphire magnifying glass that draws attention to the dial’s intricate details. Priced around €45,000 and limited to 15 pieces, Jalsa signals Titan’s ambitions in the luxury segment as younger Indian buyers rediscover both mechanical and analog watches.
Omega Named Official Timekeeper Of TGL Golf League
Omega has been appointed Official Timekeeper of TGL, a new team golf league that emphasizes fast, modern play with a 40-second shot clock. The partnership spans multiple years and will see Omega timing integrated across broadcasts and digital content as the league’s second season begins on December 28, 2025. Omega clocks will also feature prominently at TGL’s SoFi Center in Palm Beach Gardens, enhancing the on-site experience. The collaboration is further anchored by Omega ambassadors Rory McIlroy and Wyndham Clark, who will compete in upcoming TGL matches broadcast in more than 150 countries.
Cartier UK sales top £250 million for the first time
Cartier’s UK business surpassed £250 million in annual sales for the first time, rising 11% to £251 million in the year ending March 2025. Operating profit grew even faster, up 25% to £15 million, outpacing the overall 5.5% growth of Richemont, Cartier’s parent group. The brand has been reinvesting heavily, purchasing prime Mayfair properties worth £159 million and generating additional income from these real estate assets. With watches estimated to contribute 25–30% of Cartier’s turnover, the category remains a significant and growing pillar of its UK business.
The Trend Continues: Monobrand Watch Boutiques Are On A Continuous Rise
Monobrand watch boutiques are proliferating as brands seek to immerse customers in carefully controlled environments that express their identity and values. Throughout 2025, many luxury watchmakers expanded or upgraded their boutique networks, even in a challenging market, with standouts like Cartier and Vacheron Constantin investing heavily in flagship locations. These spaces emphasize storytelling, brand heritage, and curated displays, but they can also limit a shopper’s ability to compare across brands. The model’s success ultimately depends on the quality of service and whether enthusiasts feel better served by a single-brand narrative or by multi-brand spaces with broader choice.
Feature Time
A glimpse into the Ateliers of Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels treats watchmaking as a form of poetic storytelling rather than a purely technical exercise, beginning each project with a narrative that guides the mechanics and aesthetics. This philosophy has produced creations like the Lady Arpels Heures Florales, where flowers open and close to tell the time, blending artistry with complex engineering. In the brand’s workshops, artisans and engineers are encouraged to experiment and draw inspiration from fields like botany and painting, and mistakes are seen as part of the creative process. Iconic pieces such as Midnight Planetarium and Pont des Amoureux embody this culture, turning watches into intimate, emotionally resonant jewelry.
The Best World Timer Watches We’ve Reviewed After a Decade of Testing
After a decade of wearing and testing world timers, the author highlights models chosen more for daily practicality and personality than for pure travel functionality. The Farer World Timer Roché II stands out for its solid build, strong legibility, and genuine go-anywhere capability, while the Christopher Ward C1 Worldglow mixes dressy styling with a dramatic luminous display. Rado’s Over-Pole brings nostalgic charm and comfort but sacrifices nighttime visibility, making it more of a character piece. The Nomos Zürich World Time, closer to a GMT in function, wins praise for its clean design and user-friendly local time adjustment, proving that elegance and usability can coexist.
Oracle Time Founder’s Favourite Watches of 2025
Reflecting on a relatively restrained year of acquisitions, the author shares a wishlist of five standout watches that captured their imagination in 2025. The EC Andersson Mytilus Bare Metal impresses with its ultra-thin case and bold orange bezel, while the echo/neutra Rivanera Piccolo MB combines titanium lightness with a dramatic Musou Black dial. Christopher Ward’s C1 Jump Hour earns a place for its clean design and inventive complication at a compelling value point. Rounding out the list, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 Beige and TAG Heuer Carrera Fragment are praised for their subtle, minimalist aesthetics that still feel deeply expressive on the wrist.
Romain Marietta of Zenith
Romain Marietta, Zenith’s Chief Product Officer, reflects on the brand’s 160-year legacy and its ongoing pursuit of innovation in movements like the El Primero and the award-winning G.F.J. Calibre 135. He explains how the El Primero, introduced in 1969, remains central to Zenith’s identity while being continually refined for modern expectations. The discussion also touches on the Calibre 135’s success at the 2025 GPHG Chronometry Prize, underscoring Zenith’s technical credibility. Looking ahead, Marietta hints at limited editions and collaborations that will further blend tradition and forward-thinking watchmaking.
Watchmaking In 2025: A Conversation With Wrist Check Pod At UBS House Of Craft
At UBS House of Craft, Wrist Check Pod’s Perri Dash and Rashawn Smith joined Hodinkee’s Tim Jeffreys and Mark Kauzlarich to discuss where watchmaking stands in 2025. The panel explored what makes a watch truly “iconic” today and whether modern models can achieve the same cultural resonance as past legends. They highlighted the growing importance of community, storytelling, and independent makers in shaping collectors’ tastes. A surprise appearance by Ben Clymer sparked a lively debate about which watches should have been included in the Icons of Time exhibition, underscoring how fluid and contested the idea of an “icon” has become.
Holiday Horology: Something Old, Something New, Something Special
This feature pairs three very different watches to capture the spirit of the holidays: one old, one new, and one especially rare. The Ralph Lauren American Western Watch Turquoise channels the romance of the American West with its richly engraved case and vivid stone dial. The Behrens × Vianney Halter KWH brings playful, almost sci-fi charm with its chain-driven hour display and design cues inspired by electric meters and retro video games. Finally, the vintage Rolex King Midas, with its asymmetric gold case and ultra-thin movement, stands out as an underrated grail that remains surprisingly overlooked in today’s market.
Why truly striking watch designs often come from those outside the industry
The article argues that some of the most arresting modern watch designs are created by outsiders, particularly industrial designers from fields like automotive design. Collaborations with talents such as Andrea Zagato allow brands to access fresh forms, proportions, and narratives that established watch design cultures often struggle to generate. As both the automotive and watch industries polarize between ultra-luxury and mass market, the pressure to stand out is pushing brands to look beyond familiar templates and conservative updates. By inviting external designers into the process, watchmakers can challenge entrenched habits, tell new stories, and create pieces that genuinely surprise collectors.
Collecting The Rolex Daytona Oyster Paul Newman Panda Dial
The Rolex Daytona with the Panda Paul Newman dial has become a blue-chip collectible, especially since Paul Newman’s own example shattered auction records in 2017. Collectors now obsess over fine distinctions between Mark 1, 1.5, 1.75, and 2 dials, with the reference 6263 often commanding a premium over the 6265 thanks to its acrylic bezel and stronger auction track record. Although the broader vintage Rolex market has cooled after a decade-long boom, the Panda Newman remains a focal point of high-end collecting. Its enduring allure suggests that, as tastes cycle and mature, these dials will continue to anchor serious vintage portfolios.
Fratello’s Top 5 Complicated Watches Of 2025 — Featuring Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Breguet, And More
Fratello’s 2025 shortlist of complicated watches opens with the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, packing an astonishing 41 complications into a wearable case. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar earns praise for its user-friendly caliber 7138, which makes living with a perpetual calendar far less intimidating. Breguet’s Expérimentale 1 showcases avant-garde tech with a 10Hz tourbillon and magnetic escapement, pushing chronometric performance. Rounding out the selection, the Gérald Genta Minute Repeater and Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 demonstrate how thinness, acoustics, and sculptural tourbillons can still surprise even jaded collectors.
Understanding Bell & Ross Watches
Bell & Ross began life collaborating with Sinn in the early 1990s before transitioning to its own Swiss-made watches and, eventually, its signature square case design. The BR 01 launched in 2005 cemented the brand’s cockpit-instrument aesthetic, and that DNA now runs through core families like the BR 03, BR X3, BR 05, and BR X5. While Bell & Ross does not produce its own movements, it experiments widely with materials, case constructions, and complications to keep the square format fresh. In recent years, the company has streamlined its lineup, focusing on a few strong pillars that offer sizes from 36mm to 42mm and appeal to both everyday wearers and collectors.
Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2025 — Nacho’s Picks From Nomos, Sinn, Tudor, And More
Nacho’s 2025 favorites reflect a year rich in characterful, enthusiast-focused releases. The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer leads the list for its blend of distinctive design, travel functionality, and everyday wearability. Other standouts include the Sinn 613 St UTC for its rugged versatility, the Doxa Sub 250T GMT for its sweet-spot proportions, and the Tudor Pelagos Ultra for its thoughtful evolution of an already beloved tool watch. An updated Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M, along with several honorable mentions, underscores how diverse and energetic the year felt for watch fans of all tastes.
The top 5 Omega watch releases of 2025, according to the numbers
Omega’s 2025 lineup generated strong buzz across several collections, and this ranking focuses on which models resonated most by the numbers. The Seamaster Railmaster returns with vintage cues and practical upgrades, while the fourth-generation Seamaster Planet Ocean rethinks the brand’s dive aesthetic with a smaller, sharper case. The Seamaster 300M Bronze Gold and Burgundy and the Aqua Terra 150M Turquoise add bolder color and material stories, broadening appeal beyond traditional tool-watch buyers. At the top sit new “Side of the Moon” Speedmaster variants, which manage to keep the line feeling iconic yet contemporary through carefully judged updates.
eBay Finds: Two Classic Seiko Dive Watches, a Stunning Vintage Movado, and the Strangest Timex We’ve Ever Seen
This edition of eBay Finds curates a small but varied group of vintage watches that illustrate different facets of collecting. A Seiko 6309-7049 diver anchors the selection with its honest, original condition and warmly aged lume, joined by a rare Seiko 62MAS 6217-8001 that represents the brand’s professional dive heritage. A 1950s Girard-Perregaux and a slim Bulova dress watch showcase mid-century elegance and clean movements. Rounding things out, a quirky Timex Auto Desk Wrist with its mountable case and a robust Movado M95 Super Sub Sea Diver Chronograph demonstrate how oddball concepts and high-spec chronographs can coexist in a single, compelling lineup.
Video: Stephen Forsey talks about the early Greubel Forsey watches :
In this video-focused feature, Stephen Forsey walks viewers through the formative years of Greubel Forsey from the brand’s farmhouse base in La Chaux‑de‑Fonds. He revisits landmark pieces such as Invention No. 1, the Double Tourbillon 30 Degrees, and Invention No. 3, realized as the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Incliné. The discussion highlights how these watches combined radical ideas about tourbillon architecture with painstaking hand-finishing. Viewers are invited to explore the full video on YouTube to better appreciate the technical ingenuity and aesthetic philosophy that have defined Greubel Forsey since 2004.
The Best on the Back, Seven More Watches with Drop-Dead Gorgeous Movements
This feature celebrates seven watches whose casebacks are as mesmerizing as their dials, placing movement beauty at center stage. Pieces like the Kallinich Claeys Einser Zentralsekunde Voyager and the Montblanc 1858 Split-Seconds Chronograph showcase richly finished German Silver bridges and complex rattrapante chronograph architecture. The Nicolas Delaloye Renaissance, Gérald Genta Minute Repeater, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Chronograph RD#5 demonstrate how traditional complications can be reimagined with modern finishing and layout. Raúl Pagès’ RP2 and the LVKV-02 GMR 6 by Louis Vuitton and Kari Voutilainen add independent flair, proving that some of the most memorable watch experiences begin when you flip the case over.
Best of 2025: Value Propositions Below US$10,000
This feature surveys the 2025 landscape of watches offering strong value under US$10,000, focusing on pieces that combine credible watchmaking with thoughtful design and finishing. It highlights how both mainstream brands and independents are competing more aggressively in this segment, often borrowing aesthetics and technical details from higher-end lines. The selections show that enthusiasts can now access interesting movements, refined cases, and distinctive dials without entering true luxury price territory. Together, these watches map out a maturing middle ground where considered, long-term purchases feel both attainable and rewarding.
The Latest Time
Breitling
Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 Malaysia Edition
This limited edition Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 celebrates Malaysia’s 68 years of independence and is restricted to just 68 pieces sold exclusively in Malaysia. It features a dark blue satiné soleil dial with Eastern Arabic numerals, 18k red gold indices, and a splash of yellow GMT text that references the national flag. Powered by the COSC-certified Caliber 32, it offers a dual time zone function, 42-hour power reserve, and 200 meters of water resistance, making it versatile for both travel and daily wear. The watch pairs a stainless steel case with Breitling’s Rouleaux bracelet for a modern yet classic look.
Franck Muller
Franck Muller Round Triple Mystery
The Franck Muller Round Triple Mystery is a high-jewelry complication that uses three rotating gem-set disks to indicate the hours, minutes, and seconds. Its 39mm case, available in 18k rose or white gold, is lavishly set with brilliant-cut or baguette-cut diamonds and colorful gemstones. Prices range from A$156,900 for the brilliant-cut bezel model up to A$272,400 for the baguette-cut diamond version, underlining its positioning as an exclusive piece for serious collectors. Merging feminine aesthetics with intricate mechanics, it stands out as a statement watch that emphasizes drama, craftsmanship, and luxury.
Girard-Perregaux
The Spectacular Pink Gold Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant Escapement
Girard-Perregaux’s Neo Constant Escapement in pink gold tackles the age-old challenge of delivering constant force from the mainspring by using a patented buckling-blade mechanism. Housed in a 45mm pink gold case, the openworked design showcases the COSC-certified, manually wound calibre GP09200 with twin escapement wheels and a striking purple silicium blade. The watch is limited and priced at CHF 128,000, reflecting both its technical ambition and its role as a halo piece in the collection. A more avant-garde version in composite carbon and silicium further demonstrates the brand’s willingness to experiment with both mechanics and materials.
Jacques Bianchi
The JB300 Poulpro — Jacques Bianchi’s Technical Dive Watch Evolves
The JB300 Poulpro refines Jacques Bianchi’s quirky octopus-dial diver into a more serious technical tool watch. Its Grade 5 titanium case delivers 300 meters of water resistance, impressive scratch resistance, and a lighter feel on the wrist, while oversized luminous markers and a matte stonewashed finish keep it functional and low-reflection under water. Powered by a Swiss automatic movement, the watch is limited to 300 pieces and priced at €1,079 before taxes, with deliveries planned from February 2026. The result is a straightforward, purpose-built diver that still carries the distinctive Poulpro personality.
Orient Star
The Orient Star M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase
The Orient Star M45 F7 Mechanical Moon Phase introduces three dial variants—white, navy blue, and a limited light blue—into the brand’s flagship moonphase line. Each watch features a moon phase display with date, power reserve indicator, and an open-heart aperture that reveals the automatic F7M42 movement with a 50-hour power reserve. Crafted in a 41mm 316L stainless-steel case, it balances Japanese craftsmanship with functional complications and nature-inspired aesthetics, especially in the deep blue “night sky” dials. Pricing is €1,799.99 for the white and navy versions and €1,899.99 for the limited light blue edition, each delivered with a high-quality leather strap.
Seiko
First Look: Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver GMT SPB534 Seashadow
The Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver GMT SPB534 Seashadow is a limited run of 500 pieces that updates the classic 300m diver template with a gold-toned bezel and glossy black dial. Its 42mm stainless-steel case with super-hard coating and ceramic bezel houses the calibre 6R54, a caller-GMT movement with a 72-hour power reserve and a date at 4:30. The watch comes on a three-link bracelet with a micro-adjust clasp, making it practical for both diving and daily wear. It will be available exclusively in select Seiko boutiques for EUR 1,900 or GBP 1,600, underscoring its appeal to collectors looking for a more distinctive Prospex GMT.
Simon Brette
Simon Brette Announces the Chronomètre Artisans Steel – His Most Bold Style Yet
The Chronomètre Artisans Steel is Simon Brette’s latest limited edition, capped at just 60 pieces and defined by a white-gold dial that shifts from deep green to vivid violet. Beneath the color-shifting surface lies a meticulously finished movement with a 72-hour power reserve, delivered with three interchangeable straps to adapt to different occasions. The watch leans into modern aesthetics while preserving the handcraft and detail that have made Brette’s earlier pieces cult favorites. Priced at CHF 81,000, it is already oversubscribed, signaling strong demand for future releases from the independent maker.
Voutilainen
The Voutilainen 28MPR, The Farewell Edition to the Exceptional Vingt-8 Series
The Voutilainen 28MPR marks the farewell to Kari Voutilainen’s foundational Vingt‑8 calibre, adding moonphase and power reserve displays to a newly proportioned 37.5mm case. Its salmon guilloché dial, applied gold numerals, blued hands, and blue Grand Feu enamel moonphase combine into an intensely refined, compact design. Inside, the in-house Calibre 28MPR uses a direct-impulse escapement for improved efficiency, has 246 components, and offers a 65-hour power reserve. Limited to 15 pieces per metal, it is priced at CHF 142,000 in steel or titanium and CHF 149,000 in platinum, underscoring its status as a final, highly collectible expression of the Vingt‑8 line.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Anders & Co.
This Affordable Stone Dial Watch Proves You Don’t Need a Luxury Budget
The Anders & Co. AC2 Volcán uses stone dials like turquoise and red agate to create visual impact without drifting into ultra-luxury territory. Its 37mm tonneau case and 5.6mm thickness focus on comfort and proportions, letting the texture of the dial remain the star. Powered by a slim Miyota 9T22 quartz movement, it keeps the profile sleek and the price accessible, landing between $628 and $716. The package is rounded out with an alligator-embossed strap that works well, even if a softer strap could elevate the wearing experience further.
Kiwame Tokyo
Kiwame Tokyo’s Iwao Is a Field Watch That Avoids Microbrand Gimmicks
The Kiwame Tokyo Iwao is a restrained 38mm field watch that favors utility and quiet detail over hype. Its dial combines a stone-like central texture, smooth satin ring, and diamond-cut markers, accented by heat-blued hands and a seconds hand tip that subtly references Asakusa’s Kaminarimon gate. Powered by the Miyota 9039 automatic movement and water resistant to 100 meters, it is built as a genuinely everyday piece. Priced at $690 and offered in Ginkai (silver) and Sumi (black) variants with Italian leather straps, it appeals to collectors who value measured design and purposeful choices over flashy limited editions.
Peacock
Peacock Black Hole Central Tourbillon Watch Review: Affordable Haute Horology From Historic Chinese Brand
The Peacock Black Hole Central Tourbillon brings an in-house central tourbillon complication into a surprisingly accessible price bracket. Its black titanium case and iridescent dial, inspired by the gravitational pull of black holes, give the watch a distinctive, modern presence on the wrist. Inside, the caliber PAX9611 delivers a substantial 120-hour power reserve and showcases Peacock’s manufacturing capabilities. At $3,999, it offers an alternative to far more expensive European tourbillons, pairing lightweight comfort and a sporty rubber strap with serious horological ambition.
Spinnaker
Spinnaker Croft 39 GMT Automatic Review: Vacation Vibes With Three Time Zones
The Spinnaker Croft 39 GMT Automatic is designed to feel like a holiday-ready daily wearer, with three-time-zone tracking and 150 meters of water resistance. The updated “Pacific Pulse” version leans into color, pairing a teal dial with orange and yellow accents while keeping the case at a compact, wearable 39mm. Powered by the Seiko NH34, it offers a 41-hour power reserve and simple operation for those who mostly live in one time zone but want occasional GMT functionality. Priced at $445 and delivered with both a bracelet and rubber strap, it balances value, versatility, and a relaxed, maritime character.
Comparing Time
Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Vs. Tudor Black Bay Pro
This comparison looks at two travel-ready GMT watches under €4,500: the Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer and the Tudor Black Bay Pro. The Tudor leans into a vintage tool-watch aesthetic, offering a COSC-certified movement, robust 200m water resistance, and the kind of familiarity that appeals to traditionalists. The Nomos counters with a more compact, comfortable case, playful dial colors, and a clever internal rotating bezel system for time zone changes that feels distinctly modern. In the end, the choice comes down to whether you prefer the Black Bay Pro’s rugged, classic character or the Club Sport Worldtimer’s colorful, design-driven take on travel timekeeping.
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Talking Time
No new episodes today
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Friday’s auction watch, the Breitling Bentley Mulliner Perpetual Calendar L.E. 48MM Silver Dial Leather Strap (J2936212)- was bid to $12,000 but did not meet its reserve of $16,000. - make an offer]
Patek Philippe Nautilus 40.5MM Silver Dial Steel Bracelet (5726/1A-010)
Auction Report: The Thinking Collector’s Nautilus
The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5726/1A-010 occupies a very particular—and increasingly interesting—corner of the Nautilus universe. While the headline models remain the time-only 5711 and the chronograph 5980, the 5726 has always been the connoisseur’s choice: sport-luxury packaging paired with real horological substance. This example, offered in very good condition but without box and papers, heads to auction tonight at 8:36 pm, making it a classic last-minute decision piece for collectors who value content over ceremony.
Introduced in 2010, the 5726 marked the first time Patek Philippe brought its annual calendar complication into the Nautilus line. That matters. The annual calendar is one of the brand’s most practical signatures, automatically accounting for months with 30 or 31 days and requiring adjustment just once a year. In the Nautilus, Patek integrated it cleanly, with three apertures along the top of the dial for day, date, and month, and a beautifully balanced moon-phase and 24-hour display at six o’clock. The result is a dial that looks complex but never crowded, retaining the calm symmetry that makes the Nautilus so enduring.
The 40.5mm stainless steel case wears exactly as you’d expect from a Nautilus of this era: thin, fluid, and far more elegant on the wrist than the dimensions suggest. The horizontally embossed silver dial shifts subtly between light grey and warm metallic tones depending on the angle, and the integrated steel bracelet remains one of the most comfortable and refined designs in modern watchmaking. Inside beats Patek’s self-winding Caliber 324 S QA LU 24H, visible through the sapphire caseback and finished to the brand’s uncompromising standards.
From a market perspective, the 5726/1A has always traded at a discount to the hype-driven Nautilus references, but that gap has narrowed as collectors mature and begin prioritizing complications and wearability over pure scarcity. In late 2025, full-set examples typically trade in the low- to mid-$70,000 range depending on condition. Watches without box and papers, like this one, generally transact closer to the high-$50,000s to mid-$60,000s, making them one of the more rational entry points into complicated Patek sports watches. As values stabilize after years of volatility, the 5726 increasingly looks less like a compromise and more like a smart long-term hold.
The absence of box and papers will matter to some buyers, but for others it represents an opportunity. The watch itself carries the history, the movement, and the design that define modern Patek Philippe, and the Nautilus annual calendar remains one of the most usable high-end complications ever put into steel. For collectors who want a Nautilus they can actually wear, appreciate, and justify, this is exactly the kind of listing worth watching closely as the clock ticks toward tonight’s close.
Current bid: $30,000