BuyingTime Daily - December 19, 2025
Indies take center stage, Chrono24 links dealers worldwide, Aston Martin goes wrist-born, and 2025’s best complications remind us why watches still matter.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Here’s your December 19, 2025 edition of Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe.
Louis Vuitton put a strong spotlight on independent watchmaking this week by revealing the finalists and jury for its second Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. Chaired by Carole Forestier-Kasapi of TAG Heuer, the jury will narrow the field to one winner next March in Paris, where five finalists will present their projects at the Fondation Louis Vuitton. With a €150,000 grant and a year of mentorship on the line, the prize is quickly becoming one of the most meaningful platforms for independents looking to move from passion project to sustainable practice.
On the business side, Chrono24 tightened its grip on the U.S. market by becoming the exclusive online marketplace sponsor of the International Watch & Jewelry Guild. By plugging into a global dealer network nearly 9,000 members strong, the move signals a deeper blending of traditional dealer ecosystems and online liquidity, reinforcing the idea that the secondary market’s future will be built collaboratively rather than competitively.
Brand extension was also in the air as Aston Martin, via Timex Group, rolled out its first Watches and Jewelry Collection. Drawing heavily from the marque’s automotive DNA, the lineup leans into titanium, carbon fiber, and performance-driven design, with the TRG Automatic acting as the hero piece. It’s another reminder that lifestyle storytelling remains a powerful gateway into watch ownership, even when the movement comes from Japan rather than Switzerland.
Price perception took center stage in Corder’s latest column, which argues that Swiss watches may not be getting as expensive as collectors think. While export averages have risen dramatically over two decades, closer inspection shows that many mainstream references from brands like Rolex and TAG Heuer have seen only modest increases. The real sticker shock, it seems, comes from halo pieces and complicated outliers that skew the narrative while quietly elevating brand prestige.
At the high end, Chopard stunned with its L.U.C Grand Strike, a sonnerie masterpiece developed over more than 11,000 hours and protected by ten patents. Its sapphire crystal gong system delivers a remarkably pure chime, turning acoustic innovation into the star of the show. Meanwhile, year-end reflections highlighted a strong 2025 for complications and independents alike, from Vacheron Constantin’s mind-bending Solaria to the quiet confidence of time-only pieces from makers like F.P. Journe and Urban Jürgensen.
Wrapping things up, the broader industry conversation pointed toward a more global, colorful, and collector-led future. British independents leaned into playful creativity, China was framed as “in transition” rather than retreat, and sub-$5,000 watches proved that originality and value still coexist. As 2025 winds down, the message is clear: the watch world is diversifying, loosening up, and finding new ways to stay interesting—without losing its mechanical soul. -Michael Wolf
News Time
From road to wrist: Aston Martin unveils first watch and jewelry collection
Aston Martin has launched its first Watches and Jewelry Collection in collaboration with Timex Group, extending the brand’s design language from cars to wearable luxury. The collection is split into ‘Timeless’ pieces inspired by vintage aesthetics and ‘Icon’ models that showcase contemporary performance-driven design. Materials such as titanium and carbon fiber echo the construction and interiors of Aston Martin vehicles, creating a strong visual and tactile connection to the brand’s automotive roots. The flagship TRG Automatic features a skeleton dial, Japanese automatic movement, and titanium tonneau case, accompanied by a matching TRG Bangle in polished steel with carbon fiber inserts.
Finalists and jury revealed for Louis Vuitton’s Watch Prize for Independent Creatives
Louis Vuitton has announced the finalists and jury for the second edition of its Watch Prize for Independent Creatives, drawing strong interest from independent watchmakers worldwide. From a large pool of applicants, 20 semi-finalists were evaluated by a committee of 65 experts based on design, creativity, innovation, craftsmanship, and technical complexity. The jury is chaired by Carole Forestier-Kasapi of TAG Heuer and includes other prominent industry figures. Five finalists, including Daizoh Makihara Watchcraft, Fam Al Hut, Hazemann & Monnin, Bernhard Lederer, and Quiet Club, will present their projects on March 24, 2026, at the Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris, with the winner receiving a €150,000 grant and a year of mentorship.
Chrono24 plugs into 8,900-strong global dealer network
Chrono24 has become the exclusive online marketplace sponsor of the International Watch & Jewelry Guild (IWJG), which represents American watch and jewelry dealers. The partnership connects Chrono24’s digital platform with a network of nearly 9,000 members across 77 countries, broadening access to high-quality inventory and a global audience of buyers. This move supports Chrono24’s expansion in the United States, one of its key markets, and deepens ties between online and traditional dealer communities. The collaboration is expected to enhance trust, visibility, and liquidity in the secondary luxury watch market.
CORDER’S COLUMN: Are Swiss watches too expensive?
Swiss watch exports over the past two decades show a substantial rise in average prices, from CHF 469 in 2005 to CHF 1,618 in 2024, even as volumes decline. This suggests a deliberate strategy of producing fewer watches at higher prices, playing into the luxury market’s appetite for exclusivity and the Veblen effect, where higher prices can actually increase desirability. Yet closer analysis reveals that average price increases for many brands are more modest than commonly believed: Rolex’s average prices have risen only about 10% over five years, and TAG Heuer has even seen declines. The perception of steep price hikes is often driven by rare, complicated pieces and headline-grabbing models, which elevate brand prestige while mass-produced references see only incremental adjustments.
Feature Time
Exclusive Video: The Beautiful Music of Chopard’s New L.U.C Grand Strike
Chopard’s L.U.C Grand Strike is the brand’s most technically ambitious chiming watch to date, integrating minute repeater, petite sonnerie, and grand sonnerie functions in a single timepiece. Developed over more than 11,000 hours and protected by 10 patents, it pushes acoustic innovation as much as mechanical complexity. Its monobloc sapphire crystal gong system replaces traditional metal gongs, significantly reducing interference and producing a clearer, purer chime often described as the “Sound of Eternity.” The watch stands as both a demonstration of cutting-edge horology and an invitation to experience its remarkable sound in person.
Fratello Talks: The Forces Redefining The Watch Industry’s Future
As 2025 closes, the watch industry is being reshaped by new geographic power centers, shifting consumer expectations, and more interactive platforms. Chinese and Indian brands are moving beyond imitation into original design, while India’s growing middle class promises both a major consumer base and a future manufacturing hub. At the same time, events like Dubai Watch Week foster direct dialogue between collectors and brand leaders, contrasting with the more formal Swiss fairs. Collectors increasingly value closer relationships, transparency, and personalization, driving a more global, experience-focused, and customer-led watch industry.
The Chinese Market, An Insider’s View with Chow Tai Fook, China’s Leading Company
Despite declining exports and softer numbers, the Chinese watch market is described as “in transition” rather than weak by Chow Tai Fook, a dominant player in the sector. After years of rapid expansion and market saturation, consumers are now more selective, prioritizing quality, value, and meaningful purchases over volume. Secondary-market price normalization and over-supply have hurt some brands, while the strongest names and most compelling products remain resilient. Looking ahead, rising interest in Chinese watchmaking and the blending of local cultural identity with global luxury trends suggest a new phase of growth and creativity for the region.
Colour & creativity is British watchmaking’s secret weapon
British watchmaking is carving out a distinct identity by embracing bold colors, playful themes, and personal storytelling rather than conservative, formulaic designs. At events such as the British Watch Weekender, independent brands like Studio Underdog, Farer, Isotope, and Beaucroft showcased watches inspired by everything from food and drink to intricate decorative crafts like straw marquetry. These pieces reject a bland “middle ground,” instead targeting specific enthusiasts who value individuality and character. Crucially, this creativity is paired with solid engineering and build quality, positioning British makers as innovators who create future classics rather than short-lived novelties.
Best of 2025: Complications
The year 2025 marked a high point for complicated watchmaking, with several brands unveiling pieces that stretch both technical limits and imagination. Vacheron Constantin’s Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, with 41 complications and advanced astronomical indications, exemplifies how extreme complexity can still be made wearable. Other highlights include A. Lange & Söhne’s Minute Repeater Perpetual and Blancpain’s Grande Double Sonnerie, which combine intricate mechanics with refined aesthetics. Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph introduced a novel energy-management system, underscoring the industry’s drive to pair traditional haute horlogerie with cutting-edge engineering.
Best of 2025: Independent Watchmaking
Independent watchmaking in 2025 was defined less by quantity and more by depth, with a small number of standout releases that emphasized craft, storytelling, and originality. Urban Jürgensen’s UJ-1 Tourbillon signaled a powerful revival for the brand, marrying Kari Voutilainen’s influence with pocket-watch-inspired elegance. Pieces like Petermann Bédat’s Reference 1825 and Raúl Pagès’ RP2 reaffirmed the enduring appeal of time-only watches that prioritize movement architecture, finishing, and proportion over spectacle. From Ferdinand Berthoud’s Naissance d’une Montre 3 to Greubel Forsey’s evolved perpetual calendars and Konstantin Chaykin’s whimsical creations, the independents showed that true innovation often resides in restrained, thoughtfully executed projects rather than constant novelty.
Year in Review: the Best Watches Under $5,000 of 2025
In a year marked by rising prices, 2025 still delivered a compelling crop of sub-$5,000 watches that balanced originality, quality, and value. Standouts included the anOrdain Model 2 Porcelain with its deep black porcelain dial, the Beda’a Eclipse II jump hour with its unconventional display, and the echo/neutra Rivanera Piccolo, which modernizes classic tool-watch cues. The Fears Arnos added a refined, design-driven choice to the mix, while Longines’ Ultra-Chron Carbon brought high-beat performance and contemporary materials from a mainstream brand at an accessible level. Together, these releases show that thoughtful design and strong watchmaking are still available to enthusiasts without entering full luxury pricing.
In-Depth: A Look Back At 20 Years Of The F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain
The F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain, launched in 2005, has evolved into an icon by prioritizing precision and purity over complication. Inspired by 19th-century marine chronometers, it introduced a new case format and the Calibre 1304, whose twin barrels and clever architecture ensure stable energy delivery and a 56-hour power reserve. Over two decades, the model has spawned celebrated variants, from the Chronomètre Bleu to boutique editions that each explore different aesthetic directions while preserving the underlying movement concept. Often described as an “entry-level” Journe, it nonetheless embodies the brand’s core values of clarity, mechanical integrity, and long-term relevance, explaining its enduring status among collectors.
The Latest Time
Monochrome
The MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription 4 Seconde Morte
The MONOCHROME Montre de Souscription 4 Seconde Morte is a limited-edition collaboration with Habring² that pairs an Art Deco design with a deadbeat seconds complication, causing the seconds hand to jump in precise one-second steps. Housed in a brushed stainless steel case with a glossy black dial, it features Roman numerals, diamond-shaped markers, and a distinctive “water level” indicator for added character. Only 33 individually numbered pieces will be produced, offered as subscription watches with a three-year warranty and free insured international shipping. Priced at EUR 6,000 before taxes (approximately $7,030 USD), it emphasizes in-house and locally sourced components that highlight independent watchmaking craft.
Seiko
The Spring Drive-Powered Seiko Prospex LX GMT U.S. Special Edition SNR058
The Seiko Prospex LX GMT U.S. Special Edition SNR058 takes inspiration from the North America Nebula, using a gradient dial that fades from rich brown to deep black beneath a rose-gold bezel with a black and brown sapphire insert. A rose-tone GMT hand, power reserve indicator, and LumiBrite-treated hands and markers enhance both legibility and functionality, while the Spring Drive movement delivers outstanding accuracy of ±1 second per day and a 72-hour power reserve. Its 44.8mm titanium case keeps the watch robust yet relatively light, paired with a super-clear sapphire crystal and 100 meters of water resistance. The Seiko Prospex LX GMT U.S. Special Edition is priced at $6,600 USD, offering a blend of high-end finishing and serious travel-ready performance.
Zeitwinkel
Zeitwinkel Updates Its Classic 082° Central Second Watch
Zeitwinkel’s updated 082° Central Second retains the core character of the original while refining the case, dial, and overall ergonomics. Offered in 39mm and 42.5mm stainless steel with a mix of brushed and polished surfaces, it features a layered dial with a patterned central plate, applied indices, and minute track options in galvanised Silver or Black Or. Inside is the in-house automatic calibre ZW0102 with a 72-hour power reserve and detailed hand-finishing, visible through the sapphire caseback. Made to order, the Zeitwinkel 082° is priced at CHF 16,107 including VAT (about $19,540 USD) or CHF 14,900 excluding VAT (about $18,080 USD), and can be paired with either a hand-sewn calfskin strap or a caoutchouc rubber strap on a folding clasp.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Anders & Co.
Anders & Co AC2 Volcán
This review explores how the luxury watch industry is struggling to adapt to a rapidly changing consumer landscape. Key challenges include building stronger brands, democratizing luxury, and creating more welcoming retail experiences that resonate with younger, digitally fatigued buyers. Millennials and Gen Z are especially drawn to craftsmanship and traditional manufacturing, often preferring the secondary market as a more approachable entry point. While some brands lean on sustainability messaging, experts argue that it is not yet a decisive purchase driver, and that real progress lies in modernizing engagement while preserving heritage and handcraft.
Circula
Circula ProSea Watch Review: A Manta Ray-Inspired Dial With A Hardened Steel Case
The Circula ProSea is a 40mm hardened steel dive watch distinguished by a dial texture inspired by the skin of a manta ray, giving it a bold, ocean-themed personality. Its sandblasted case with a recessed mid-section and large applied markers offers both visual interest and strong legibility, enhanced further by dual-color lume. Powered by the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, it delivers at least 38 hours of power reserve and runs within a respectable -5/+7 seconds per day. Priced at €1,090 on a strap and €1,290 on a bracelet, the ProSea blends unique aesthetics with robust specifications, reflecting Circula’s evolution under third-generation owner Cornelius Huber.
Kiwame Tokyo
Hands-On With The Refined Kiwame Tokyo Iwao Ginkai And Sumi
Kiwame Tokyo’s Iwao Ginkai and Sumi are compact 38mm field watches that update the brand’s classic formula with refined finishing and dial work. The Ginkai features a silver dial with a rock-textured center, while the Sumi opts for a stealthier black dial; both use applied Arabic numerals and a luminous minute track for practical legibility. Inside, the Miyota 9039 automatic movement provides a dependable power reserve of at least 42 hours. Paired with high-quality black leather straps and priced at €690, these models offer strong value against more expensive dress and field watches, and will be available from December 25th via the brand’s website.
Rado
Has The Rado Captain Cook 39mm Watch Finally Hit The Sizing Sweet Spot?
The Rado Captain Cook 39mm strikes a balance between the smaller 37mm and larger 42mm versions, offering a stainless steel case that is 39mm wide and 12mm thick for versatile wear. Its polished case, ceramic-bezel insert, and 300-meter water resistance create a vintage-inspired yet capable dive watch, highlighted by a teal blue dial that shifts tone with the light. A distinctive date display with red numerals on a metallic silver background adds character, while the seven-link bracelet reinforces the 1960s aesthetic. Powered by the R763 automatic movement with an 80-hour power reserve and slower beat rate, the Captain Cook 39mm is priced at $2,650 USD for enthusiasts who want classic charm coupled with modern performance.
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Talking Time
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Thursday’s auction watch, 2018 Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph 40.5MM Black Dial Steel Bracelet (5960/1A-010)- was bid to $44,300 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
Breitling Bentley Mulliner Perpetual Calendar L.E. 48MM Silver Dial Leather Strap (J2936212)
Auction Report: Breitling’s Bentley-Era Excess, In Perpetual Calendar Form
The Breitling Bentley Mulliner Perpetual Calendar (ref. J2936212) is a reminder of a very specific moment in modern watchmaking, when excess was not only tolerated but celebrated. Produced during the height of Breitling’s partnership with Bentley, this reference blends grand complication, precious metal, and unapologetic scale into a watch that was never meant to whisper. Limited to just 50 pieces worldwide, it was designed to sit at the very top of the Bentley collection, both technically and visually.
Housed in an imposing 48mm white gold case, the watch carries Breitling’s signature slide rule bezel—an aviation calling card—reimagined here in precious metal. The silver dial is dense but carefully structured, integrating a full perpetual calendar with chronograph functions. Subdials at 6, 9, and 12 o’clock display the calendar indications, while a moon phase aperture at 3 o’clock adds a traditional flourish that contrasts nicely with the muscular case architecture. Luminous hands and markers help with legibility, though this is clearly a watch meant to impress before it informs. The brown leather strap and pin buckle soften the overall presentation slightly, but there is no disguising the sheer presence of the piece on the wrist.
Under the hood, the watch is powered by a high-grade automatic chronograph movement with a perpetual calendar module, reflecting Breitling’s ambition during this era to compete directly in the realm of ultra-complicated luxury watches. The Bentley Mulliner line represented the brand at its most experimental, merging automotive-inspired design cues with complications rarely seen in Breitling’s traditional pilot-focused catalog. While tastes have shifted toward smaller, cleaner watches in recent years, these Bentley-era pieces have begun to attract renewed interest precisely because they are so emblematic of their time.
From a market perspective, the Bentley Mulliner Perpetual Calendar occupies a narrow but intriguing niche. When new, examples like this carried retail prices well into six figures, driven by the white gold case, low production numbers, and complication stack. On today’s secondary market, comparable pieces typically trade in the mid–$40,000 to $65,000 range depending on condition, completeness, and timing, with the ultra-low production run of 50 helping to support values. Condition matters here, and the seller’s representation of the watch as being in good condition, with box and papers (albeit undated), places it solidly in the middle of the expected range rather than at a premium.
With the auction ending tonight at 9:22 pm, this watch is best suited for a collector who appreciates bold design, mechanical ambition, and the distinctly maximalist chapter of Breitling’s history with Bentley. It is not a subtle perpetual calendar, nor is it trying to be. Instead, it stands as a rare and lavish artifact from an era when bigger, heavier, and more complicated was exactly the point.
Current bid: $12,000