BuyingTime Daily - December 18, 2025
New boutiques, bold retail exclusives, vintage icons, Dubai Watch Week highlights, and a look at how brands must evolve to win younger collectors.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe — December 18, 2025
Vacheron Constantin continues to double down on experiential retail with two new U.S. boutiques that lean hard into local flavor. Atlanta’s Phipps Plaza location riffs on the city’s soul-music legacy with studio-inspired textures and a proper VIP lounge, while Palm Beach’s Worth Avenue outpost goes full coastal chic with sand tones and ocean blues. Both stores reinforce the brand’s long view of the American market, blending heritage, customization, and a sense that buying a watch should feel more like entering a private club than a transaction.
Retail exclusives are also having a moment, with Breitling rolling out a blue-and-black Superocean Heritage B31 made just for Bucherer. The colorway is new, the specs are familiar, and the $6,500 price stays grounded, which is notable in an era when Bucherer’s ownership by Rolex has made some brands skittish about special editions. Meanwhile, the UK jewelry world may be headed for a soap-opera revival as Gerald Ratner attempts to buy back H. Samuel and Ernest Jones, arguing that local stewardship can fix what U.S. ownership couldn’t—an audacious comeback bid given his infamous early-’90s exit.
On the brand-building front, Bulova teams up with Stetson for a surprisingly coherent mash-up of American heritage, launching automatic watches that lean into Western iconography without veering into novelty. At the other end of the spectrum, an NYU Stern professor warns that luxury watchmaking still struggles with younger buyers, citing outdated imagery, pricing friction, and retail experiences that haven’t caught up to how Millennials and Gen Z actually shop—fueling the steady migration toward the secondary market.
Vintage lovers get a reminder of mid-century brilliance with the Lord Elgin “Chevron” jump hour, while Dubai Watch Week 2025 underscores just how global watch culture has become, mixing rare Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and poetic Van Cleef & Arpels creations with serious crowds and serious enthusiasm. History also had its say at Sotheby’s, where Admiral Lord Nelson’s ornate Victory Watch sold below estimate, proving that even great stories don’t always guarantee great prices.
Looking ahead, Patek Philippe confirms Milan as the next stop for its Watch Art Grand Exhibition in October 2026, promising over 500 watches and live artisan demonstrations—free, but very much in demand. New releases keep rolling in too, from Alterum’s modernist Worldtimer to high horology fireworks from Armin Strom and Girard-Perregaux, plus space-tested bravado from Fortis, engraved artistry from James Lamb, a Lunar New Year tribute from Longines, and an enthusiast-friendly dive watch from Sher. It’s a lot to keep up with, but that’s the point—December is ending with the watch world very much wide awake. - Michael Wolf
News Time
Vacheron Constantin Opens Boutiques In Atlanta and Palm Beach
Vacheron Constantin has expanded its U.S. footprint with new boutiques in Atlanta and Palm Beach, continuing a retail legacy in the country that dates back to 1832. The Atlanta store in Phipps Plaza is designed to echo the city’s soul music heritage, with acoustic-inspired wall treatments and a VIP lounge that recalls recording studios. In Palm Beach, the Worth Avenue boutique mixes Swiss watchmaking elegance with a relaxed coastal aesthetic using sand-toned flooring and ocean-blue accents. Both locations offer the full collection, exclusive pieces, and customization areas, emphasizing immersive brand experiences tailored to local culture.
Breitling makes a blue and black Superocean Heritage for Bucherer
Breitling has created an exclusive Superocean Heritage B31 Automatic 42 for Bucherer, featuring a deep blue dial paired with a black ceramic bezel, a color combination not found in Breitling’s core collection. The watch uses a slim 42mm steel case and Breitling’s Caliber B31 automatic movement, maintaining the same technical specifications and $6,500 price as comparable standard models. This collaboration stands out in the context of Bucherer’s ownership by Rolex, which has made brands more cautious about producing retailer exclusives. Despite industry unease, Bucherer’s extensive network of over 100 multibrand showrooms still makes such partnerships highly attractive.
Gerald Ratner agitates to buy Ernest Jones and H Samuel
Gerald Ratner is attempting to buy back the UK operations of Signet Jewelers, including the H. Samuel and Ernest Jones chains, more than three decades after losing control of the business. He argues that the U.S.-based management has neglected the UK division in favor of its larger American operations, leading to underperformance, revenue decline, and operating losses. Ratner claims to have secured financial backing and is urging shareholders to sell the UK arm to his investment group, saying they can better respond to local market needs. If successful, it would mark a dramatic return for Ratner, whose infamous 1991 “total crap” remark about his own products once forced his resignation.
Two Legendary American Brands, Bulova And Stetson, Partner Up
Bulova and Stetson have joined forces to launch a new collection of men’s automatic watches that celebrates their shared American heritage and craftsmanship. Timed to Bulova’s 150th anniversary, the collaboration revisits family ties dating back to 1930 and honors their philanthropic work through the Bulova Stetson Fund. The debut models, The Bison and The Longhorn, translate Western iconography into watch design, with sculptural bison and longhorn motifs on the dials. Priced at $750, the stainless-steel watches pair classic mechanics with distinctive leather straps, reinforcing the brands’ long-standing connection to American style and frontier culture.
Feature Time
NYU Stern professor believes “brand building, democratisation, and retail experience” are key bottlenecks for luxury watches
A marketing professor from NYU Stern argues that luxury watch brands are struggling to connect with younger consumers because of outdated imagery, pricing, and retail experiences. The discussion highlights how Millennials and Gen Z value craftsmanship but are often priced out, pushing many towards the secondary market and more affordable pieces under $2,000. While some brands experiment with sustainability and new materials, high costs and limited accessibility can further alienate potential buyers. The industry is urged to modernize brand building and customer relationships while preserving heritage and horological know-how.
The Lord Elgin “Chevron” Direct Read 7775 Jump Hour: Mid-Century Watch Design at Its Peak
The Lord Elgin Direct Read 7775, nicknamed the Chevron, represents mid-century watch design at its finest, debuting in 1957 with a distinctive jumping hour display and bold chevron motif. Its 31.5mm case houses Elgin’s 21-jewel 719 manual movement, valued for both reliability and beauty. Collectors prize the watch for its blend of functionality and sculptural aesthetics, though finding well-preserved examples can be difficult due to wear on the gold plating and disc aging. Despite those challenges, a clean Chevron is regarded as a luxurious, historically important centerpiece for fans of mid-century modern style.
Photo Report: Inside The Watch Spotting and Exhibitions At Dubai Watch Week 2025, Part 2 (100+ Photos)
This photo report captures the energy of Dubai Watch Week 2025, one of the region’s biggest horological gatherings with nearly 50,000 attendees. It highlights standout watches on display and on wrists, from rare Rolex and Audemars Piguet pieces to creative independents, alongside a detour to the Icons of Porsche event that underscores the overlap between car and watch culture. A major focus is the Audemars Piguet 150th-anniversary exhibition, which combines archival pieces, a replica of the founders’ contract, and an elaborate brand family tree. Van Cleef & Arpels’ poetic complications and jewelry creations also feature prominently, reinforcing the event as a celebration of both technical watchmaking and artistic expression.
The Watch Nelson Left Behind
The Victory Watch, made by James McCabe and gifted to Admiral Lord Nelson by officers of HMS Victory, recently sold at Sotheby’s for £152,400, below its low estimate. Unlike battle-ready instruments, this ornate timepiece—with its musical mechanism and decorative flourishes—was intended for Nelson’s domestic life in his final weeks at home. The watch represents a quieter, more intimate side of his story, contrasting sharply with his wartime image. Its sale underlines both the fascination and difficulty of valuing artifacts that sit at the intersection of personal history, national heritage, and high-end horology.
Event Time
News: The Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition is Coming to Milan in 2026
Patek Philippe is bringing its Grand Exhibition of Watch Art to Milan from October 2 to 18, 2026, marking the seventh edition of this major showcase. Held at the renovated CityOval, the exhibition will present over 500 timepieces, including current models, rare handcrafts, and historic pieces from the Patek Philippe Museum. Visitors will be able to see live demonstrations from artisans and master watchmakers, offering a close look at both traditional techniques and complex movements. Admission is free, though advance reservations are recommended when bookings open on April 14, 2026, to manage the expected high demand.
The Latest Time
Alterum
Alterum Worldtimer Horizon: In Design We Trust
The Alterum Worldtimer Horizon is a limited edition of 100 pieces that applies strict modernist principles to watch design, replacing conventional hands with four concentric rings for time display. Its clean white dial, vapor-blasted stainless steel case, and architectural inspiration from icons like the Guggenheim Museum and Apple Park emphasize clarity and simplicity. A Sellita automatic movement delivers reliable performance behind the experimental display, while the highlighted “Singapore” city ring nods to the Revolution collaboration. Priced at CHF 2,850 (approximately $3,135), it positions itself as a statement of design-led world-time watchmaking.
Armin Strom
The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Salmon
The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Salmon is a 41mm stainless steel limited edition of just 25 pieces, distinguished by its hand-guilloché salmon-colored mainplate. Powered by the ASB19 caliber with a micro-rotor and constant-force mechanism, it delivers a stable 72-hour power reserve and showcases Armin Strom’s focus on chronometric performance. The openworked architecture and meticulous hand-finishing reveal the movement from nearly every angle, blending contemporary mechanics with traditional craftsmanship. Launched to coincide with the festive season, it is priced at CHF 27,500 (approximately $30,250), firmly placing it in the realm of modern haute horlogerie.
Fortis
The Fortis Stratoliner S-41 Blasts Off in New Colours
Fortis expands its Stratoliner S-41 Chronograph line with four new models that lean into the brand’s space-tested tool-watch identity. Standouts include the Reentry Edition, with a titanium dial treated to evoke the heat and color of atmospheric re-entry, and the Gravity Black, which pairs a dark DLC-coated case with a textured “stardust” dial. All versions use the space-tested Werk 17 automatic chronograph movement, offer 200 meters of water resistance, and are built for serious utility as well as spectacle. Pricing ranges from EUR 5,150 to EUR 8,450 (approximately $5,560 to $9,130), underlining their position as premium, technically focused chronographs.
Girard-Perregaux
The Girard-Perregaux Bridges Cosmos Returns as a Unique Piece
The Girard-Perregaux Bridges Cosmos returns as a one-off unique piece that reimagines the original 2019 complication with new materials and refreshed aesthetics. It combines a one-minute tourbillon with two rotating globes that display sidereal and civil time, visually linking Earth and sky under a tall sapphire box crystal. A titanium crownless case, Tahitian mother-of-pearl and blue aventurine dial elements, and luminous titanium globes underscore the celestial theme. Pricing for this unique piece is on request, but earlier limited editions of the Bridges Cosmos were around EUR 400,000 (approximately $432,000), reflecting its ultra-high-end positioning.
James Lamb
James Lamb Introduces the Linea Editions, with Hand Engraved Titanium Dials and a New Argentium Silver Case
James Lamb’s Linea Editions build on the Origin series with a more sculptural Argentium silver case, more pronounced lugs, and richly hand-engraved titanium dials. Three designs—Mitsuba, Altair, and Regent—are executed by engraver Joanne Ryall, each drawing on different cultural and geometric motifs and accented with gold inlays. The manually wound Sellita movement keeps the technical side traditional, while an engraved and enamel-filled caseback reinforces the artisanal character. Production is tightly limited to 15–20 pieces per year, with each watch priced at 23,000 euros (approximately $24,840), squarely targeting collectors of handmade independents.
Longines
The Longines Master Collection for the 2026 Year of the Horse
The Longines Master Collection Moonphase for the 2026 Year of the Horse is a 42mm stainless steel limited edition celebrating the Chinese Lunar New Year. Its red sunray-brushed gradient dial, golden moon phase display, and rotor engraved with Peon Xu’s Galloping Horse blend cultural symbolism with classic dress-watch styling. Inside is the automatic calibre L899.5 with a 72-hour power reserve and 30 meters of water resistance, paired with a black alligator strap and steel triple-folding clasp. The watch is limited to 2,026 pieces and priced at EUR 3,100 / CHF 2,650 / USD 3,400, corresponding to roughly $3,350 (EUR price) and $2,900 (CHF price) at current rates.
Sher
Sher goes grown up, and brings along That Watch Podcast for a limited edition Dive Watch for enthusiasts
Sher’s collaboration with That Watch Podcast results in a 41mm limited edition dive watch that marks the brand’s move into more “grown-up” territory. The watch features a 316L stainless steel case, 200 meters of water resistance, a matte ceramic bezel, and a textured fumé blue dial that balances tool-watch specs with enthusiast detailing. Inside is the Miyota 9039 automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve, delivered on a steel Y-link bracelet and an additional military-style fabric strap. Limited to 300 pieces, it is available for pre-order at £795 (approximately $1,010), with deliveries slated for May 2026.
Wearing Time - Reviews
A. Lange & Söhne
Hands-On With The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds
The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds is a limited edition piece that combines an 18K white gold case with a warm 18K rose gold dial for a quietly luxurious presence on the wrist. Its technical centerpiece is a jumping seconds mechanism paired with a constant-force escapement and zero-reset function, delivering highly precise timekeeping in a 39.9mm by 10.6mm case. A triangular regulator-style layout keeps the dial visually engaging yet legible, emphasizing pure time display without extra complications. The watch showcases German high watchmaking at its most refined, focusing on understatement, proportions, and finishing rather than overt flash.
Patek Philippe
Hands-On: The Reference 5308G ‘Quad Comp’ – Patek Philippe’s Modern Vision Of High Complication Watchmaking
Patek Philippe’s Reference 5308G “Quad Comp” is a contemporary high-complication watch that combines a split-second chronograph, instantaneous perpetual calendar, and minute repeater in a 42mm white gold case. Its microrotor movement, composed of 799 parts and 67 jewels, reflects a modular design and includes innovations like an anti-backlash wheel to enhance reliability and performance. Visually, the watch embraces a modern aesthetic with an ice-blue dial, bold blue hands, and updated typefaces, signaling a shift toward a younger, more design-forward clientele. Priced at $1,452,990, it stands as one of the most technically and visually ambitious chronographs in the Patek Philippe collection.
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Talking Time
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Wednesday’s auction watch, the A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 41MM Black Dial Leather Strap (117.028)- was bid to $18,500 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2018 Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph 40.5MM Black Dial Steel Bracelet (5960/1A-010)
Auction Report: Patek Philippe’s Steel Statement — The 5960/1A-010 Annual Calendar Chronograph
The 2018 Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph 5960/1A-010 occupies a very particular—and increasingly nostalgic—place in modern Patek history. Introduced as one of the brand’s most assertive steel complications, the 5960 was never about quiet discretion. It was Patek testing how far it could push a complicated, sport-leaning watch without abandoning its classical DNA, and in steel on bracelet, the message landed loud and clear.
This example, offered in very good condition and complete with inner and outer boxes, additional accessories, and papers dated 2018, represents the final years of the reference before its discontinuation. The 40.5mm stainless steel case wears confidently but not excessively, aided by Patek’s typically refined proportions and the absence of crown guards or aggressive case sculpting. The smooth bezel keeps the watch visually clean, allowing the dial architecture to do the talking.
The black dial is where the 5960/1A-010 truly distinguishes itself. It balances a surprising amount of information without feeling cluttered, anchored by the large monocounter chronograph at six o’clock that integrates both 60-minute and 12-hour totalizers. Above it sits the day, date, and month apertures of the annual calendar, a complication Patek Philippe famously introduced in 1996 to bridge the gap between simple calendars and full perpetuals. At twelve o’clock, the power reserve indicator adds a subtle technical flourish while reinforcing the watch’s instrument-like personality. Luminous hands and hour markers lend the piece genuine low-light usability, something not always guaranteed in complicated Pateks.
Inside beats the self-winding caliber CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H, a movement that was quietly groundbreaking for the brand. It combined a modern vertical clutch chronograph architecture with the annual calendar module, delivering smoother chronograph engagement and improved durability compared to older horizontal-clutch designs. This was very much Patek Philippe embracing contemporary engineering while maintaining its finishing standards, even if much of that finishing remains hidden behind the solid caseback on steel bracelet versions.
The integrated stainless steel bracelet, secured by a fold clasp, completes the watch’s distinctly modern profile. Unlike many Pateks that feel transformed when removed from leather, the 5960/1A-010 feels purpose-built for steel, leaning closer to a luxury sports chronograph than a traditional dress complication. That positioning is exactly why the reference has aged so well in collector circles.
From a market perspective, the 5960/1A-010 has enjoyed renewed attention since its discontinuation. Once viewed as a slightly unconventional Patek, it is now increasingly appreciated as one of the brand’s most wearable high-complication steel watches of the past two decades. Current market values typically trade in the mid-$50,000 to low-$60,000 range depending on condition, completeness, and timing, with strong, full-set examples like this one sitting toward the upper end. Compared to perpetual calendars or grand complications, it remains relatively accessible, which only adds to its appeal.
With the auction closing tonight at 9:34 pm on Thursday, December 18, 2025, this 5960/1A-010 represents a compelling opportunity to acquire a modern Patek Philippe that blends technical ambition, everyday usability, and a distinctly post-millennial design language. It is not a quiet watch, and that is precisely the point.
Current bid: $18,000