BuyingTime Daily - December 16, 2025
Big retail dreams, strong auctions, bold collaborations, and standout new releases—from gem-set icons to tool-watch classics—today’s watch world in motion.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe for December 16, 2025 drifts comfortably between big retail ambition, strong auction results, and a wide spectrum of new releases that range from deeply serious to joyfully expressive.
In retail news, Weston Jewelers is thinking very big, unveiling plans for a 30,500-square-foot flagship in Fort Lauderdale that would rank among the largest luxury watch and jewelry showrooms in the U.S. The late-2027 project blends private rooms, open salons, a rooftop café, and even boat access, underscoring how physical retail—especially when paired with brands like Rolex, Cartier, and Omega—is evolving into a full-scale experience rather than just a place to buy a watch.
At auction, Bonhams’ London Fine Watches sale confirmed that collectors are still eager to raise paddles for quality. A platinum Kari Voutilainen KV20i Inversé led the sale well above estimate, while a Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Advanced Research followed close behind, reinforcing the ongoing strength of independents alongside blue-chip names when the curation is right.
On the creative side, collaboration and resilience were the themes of the day. The Schaefer & Companions Solune Dune watches leaned hard into art and texture with straw marquetry and desert-inspired tones, while Orion founder Nick Harris shared a candid, grounding story about building a brand through illness, fire, and recalibrated priorities—an honest reminder that watchmaking is still, at its core, human.
New releases spanned almost every corner of the market. Beda’a blended Gulf design language with Swiss mechanics in its Eclipse Qatar Limited Edition, Doxa delivered a fully lumed SUB 250T GMT with a conservation angle, and Formex paired ceramic and meteorite in its Dark Matter edition. At the high end, Hublot marked 20 years of the Big Bang with vividly painted Meca-10 Street Art pieces, while Vacheron Constantin went all-in on gemstones with a dazzling, gem-set Overseas.
Rounding things out, hands-on reviews reminded us why familiar names endure. Citizen’s NY0040 proved it’s more than a budget diver cliché, Omega sharpened the Planet Ocean into something closer to a luxury daily wearer, Petermann Bédat showed what modern haute horlogerie looks like when done quietly well, and TAG Heuer’s Fragment-signed Carrera demonstrated that minimalism still sells when the proportions and execution are right.
All told, it was a day that neatly captured the watch world in 2025: ambitious, diverse, occasionally extravagant, and still anchored by craftsmanship and stories that matter.
News Time
Weston Jewelers’ world: the making of one of the US’ biggest watch showrooms
Weston Jewelers is expanding from its Fort Lauderdale roots to build one of the largest luxury watch and jewelry showrooms in the United States. The family-led retailer plans a 30,500-plus square foot space with retail areas, corporate offices, and a rooftop café, targeting a late‑2027 opening. The design aims for an intimate, inviting customer experience with private rooms and open spaces, and even a jetty for boat access. Positioned in the fast‑growing Las Olas area, the project is meant to serve both local clientele and tourists while deepening ties with brands such as Rolex, Cartier, and Omega.
All the standout models at Bonhams London Fine Watches sale
Bonhams’ London Fine Watches sale delivered strong results across top marques, underscoring brisk demand for rare and collectible pieces. A platinum Kari Voutilainen KV20i Inversé led the pack at £343,300, well above estimate, while a Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Advanced Research achieved £317,900. The lineup highlighted both the strength of independents and the continued allure of established luxury brands. According to Bonhams’ Global Head of Watches, the curated selection showcased technical innovation and design that resonated with bidders.
Feature Time
Time Machines: Creating A Collaboration Watch With The Schaefer And Companions Solune Dune
This collaboration channels the colors and textures of desert landscapes into two art-forward watches. The Solune Dune Grand Art uses full straw marquetry in abstract hues, while the Médaillon pairs a textured champagne gold dial with a framed central artwork. Both models are driven by the Top Grade ETA 2892‑A2 automatic, balancing artistic expression with practical reliability. The result is a design‑led duo that merges craft, culture, and everyday wearability.
Orion Watches Founder Nick Harris on Growing His Brand Through Adversity
Orion founder Nick Harris recounts his path from repairing a family heirloom to building a watch brand, while facing a rare medical condition and a devastating workshop fire. These challenges shifted his perspective, leading him to prioritize health, kindness, and acceptance of imperfection in creative work. He highlights the importance of collaboration and support to keep Orion moving forward. Harris’s story is one of resilience, refocusing on meaningful progress over perfection.
Event Time
A Festive Evening with Christopher Ward at New Mayfair Showroom
Christopher Ward hosted the final Oracle Time Members Event of the year at its new London showroom, with guests enjoying British sparkling wine and conversations with CEO Mike France about a strong year. Attendees handled the sold‑out Alliance 02 pocket watch ahead of its sale while indulging in seasonal treats like mince pies. Author Ken Kessler signed copies of his book Compendium, celebrating its successful second run. A surprise preview of a January release capped the evening, underscoring the value of membership perks like exclusive events, brand discounts, and a print magazine subscription.
The Latest Time
Beda’a
Beda’a Introduce Eclipse Qatar Limited Edition Celebrating Gulf Watchmaking
Beda’a’s Eclipse Qatar Limited Edition blends Middle Eastern aesthetics with Swiss mechanics in a compact 37 mm stainless steel case and a layered dial featuring a maroon minute hand and Eastern Arabic numerals. A peripheral minute track and the central “celestial shield” disc create an eclipse-like visual effect. It’s powered by the Sellita SW300 with a 56-hour power reserve and 30 m water resistance. Price: approximately $3,351 (CHF 2,700).
Doxa
The Full-Lumed Doxa SUB 250T GMT Great White Topper Edition
Limited to 100 pieces, this 40 mm cushion-case SUB 250T GMT in stainless steel features a full-lume dial, blue lacquered hands, and a GMT function powered by a Sellita automatic movement. Water resistance is 250 m and it ships with a beads-of-rice bracelet plus a navy rubber strap. The white-and-blue palette nods to Northern California’s Great White Sharks, and a portion of proceeds supports the Greater Farallones Association. Price: $2,990.
Formex
Formex Essence Ceramica Dark Matter
Limited to 100 pieces, the Essence Ceramica Dark Matter pairs a lightweight black ceramic case with a dark-nickel–treated Muonionalusta meteorite dial. The 41 mm watch uses the COSC-certified Soprod Newton P09 automatic with a 44-hour power reserve and includes a sapphire display back. It offers 100 m water resistance and a micro‑adjustable black ceramic bracelet for precise fit. Price: $4,920.
Hublot
Hublot Wraps Up The 20th Anniversary Of The Big Bang With The Meca-10 Street Art Editions
Hublot celebrates 20 years of the Big Bang with four vivid Meca‑10 Street Art editions, each limited to 10 pieces and cased in hand‑painted composite concrete. The openworked dials reveal the in‑house HUB1201 with a remarkable 10‑day power reserve. Bold colorways named “Magic City,” “Vice,” “Big Water,” and “Sunshine” channel street‑art energy while showcasing Hublot’s technical prowess. Price: $57,500.
Lebois Co.
New Dials for Lebois & Co, with the Heritage Chronograph Linéaire
This 39 mm Heritage Chronograph Linéaire revisits a 1950s aesthetic with champagne‑silver or deep blue dials, gold‑toned Arabic numerals, and blued syringe hands. A column‑wheel, hand‑wound La Joux‑Perret calibre LC‑450 beats at 28,800 vph with a 60‑hour power reserve, beneath a double‑domed sapphire crystal and 50 m water resistance. Early access opened December 15, with deliveries expected Spring 2026. Price: approximately $3,878 (EUR 3,300).
Seiko
The Seiko Astron SSH187 And SSJ039 — Two Galaxy-Inspired GPS Solar Limited Editions
Seiko’s Astron SSH187 (43.3 mm titanium) and SSJ039 (41.2 mm) feature dark turquoise “galaxy” dials with swirling star patterns and glittering detail. Both retain Astron’s GPS Solar tech for satellite time sync, perpetual calendar, and power‑saving functionality, with calibres 5X83 (SSH187) and 3X62 (SSJ039). Black scratch‑resistant coatings enhance durability while preserving legibility. Price: approximately $3,525 (EUR 3,000) for SSH187 and $2,938 (EUR 2,500) for SSJ039.
Vacheron Constantin
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding 35mm Gets A Full Gem-Set Touch
This limited Overseas in 18k pink or white gold (35 mm) dazzles with 1,430 baguette and brilliant‑cut diamonds, including a bezel set with 60 baguette stones and a dial paved with 314 diamonds. Powered by the automatic calibre 1088/1 with a 40‑hour power reserve, it maintains 50 m water resistance and includes three interchangeable strap options, including a diamond‑set bracelet. Price: approximately $327,695 (CHF 264,000).
Zenith
A New Twist on the Ocean Inspired Dive Watch LE from Zenith and Topper
The Defy Extreme Diver Topper Edition uses a 42.5 mm titanium case with a textured blue dial evoking the ocean, but the magic appears in the dark: speckled lume mimics bioluminescence. Inside is the El Primero 3620 with a no‑date layout to keep the design clean. Limited to 50 pieces, it includes a titanium bracelet, a rubber strap, and a fabric pass‑through strap. Price: $12,300.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Citizen
Citizen NY0040 Review: It’s Not A Seiko SKX Alternative. It’s Something Better.
The NY0040 stands on its own as an ISO-rated tool watch used by professional divers, including Italy’s COMSUBIN unit. Its left-side crown, compact feel, and robust construction emphasize practical diving utility over trends. A reliable Miyota automatic movement, legible minimalist dial, solid lume, and easy strap changes round out its everyday versatility. It’s a capable diver that merges real-world function with approachable style.
Omega
Hands-On: The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean For 2025
The fourth‑generation Planet Ocean arrives with a sharper design, premium finishes, and advanced materials, repositioning the line closer to luxury while retaining 600 m water resistance and the Master Chronometer 8912 movement. A polished ceramic bezel and more squared silhouette modernize the aesthetic, while dropping the helium valve signals broader wearability. Pricing between $8,600 and $9,500 places it squarely against the Submariner. Omega aims for a lifestyle icon that could be the brand’s next big-screen hero.
Petermann Bedat
Petermann Bédat Reference 1825
The Reference 1825 showcases Haute Horlogerie at its finest, with a translucent green Grand Feu dial, classical proportions, and details inspired by vintage pocket watches. A 38 mm by 10.15 mm case houses the hand‑wound calibre 233 featuring a 56‑hour reserve, variable‑inertia balance, and meticulous finishing in German silver with solid gold gears. Ergonomics and refinement meet long‑term durability in this limited‑production piece. Priced at CHF 75,000 excluding VAT, it’s a coveted expression of art and engineering.
TAG Heuer
Hands-On: The Sleek TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Fragment Limited Edition
This 39 mm Glassbox Carrera distills functional minimalism with a matte black opaline dial, three recessed registers, and subtle Fragment cues. The in‑house Calibre TH20‑00 delivers an 80‑hour reserve, visible through a sapphire back bearing the Fragment emblem. A seven‑row beads‑of‑rice bracelet complements the dark, restrained aesthetic. Limited to 500 pieces and priced at CHF 8,150 or EUR 9,000, it’s an elevated, modern collaboration.
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Talking Time
No new episodes today
Buying Time for Less
The Ultimate Holiday Flash Sale is Here! Score Up to 20% Off Straps
This year-end flash sale offers up to 20% off select watches and straps as part of an inventory clear-out ahead of the new year. Quantities are limited and won’t be restocked, so shoppers are encouraged to act fast on these “last chance” items. To help with last-minute gifting, expedited shipping will be available on December 19 for eligible domestic and international orders. Returns for December purchases are extended to four weeks, giving recipients extra time after the holidays for exchanges or refunds under standard guidelines.
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2021 Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Memovox L.E. 40MM Blue Dial Leather Strap (Q410848J- was bid to $6,600 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph 40.5MM Grey Dial Leather Strap (5960P-001)
Auction Report: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph 40.5MM Grey Dial Leather Strap (Ref. 5960P-001)
If you like your Patek Philippe complicated but not precious, the Patek Philippe Ref. 5960P-001 is one of the best “grown-up flex” references of the last two decades. The seller describes this example as being in very good condition and includes the inner and outer boxes plus additional items—exactly the sort of packaging that matters on a platinum complicated Patek, where completeness can do real work in the final minutes of bidding.
The 5960P-001 matters because it represents a turning point: it’s built around Patek Philippe’s first in-house, integrated, self-winding chronograph movement, the Caliber CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H, combining a flyback chronograph with an annual calendar, power reserve, and a 24-hour/day-night indication. The vertical clutch and column wheel architecture are the headline here, and Patek’s clever design choice—using the central chronograph hand as a “sweep seconds” if you want it—explains why the dial feels so clean for a watch doing so much.
Visually, the platinum case gives the watch real physical presence, while the grey dial keeps it sober and formal. The signature layout is what collectors call the “monocounter” at six o’clock: a single subdial that consolidates elapsed minutes and hours for the chronograph, leaving the top of the dial to arc the annual calendar apertures for day, date, and month. It’s an unusual display that becomes surprisingly intuitive once you’ve worn it for a week—like learning the controls in a new car and then wondering why everyone else still uses knobs from 1997.
Value snapshot and what the market is “saying” right now
In today’s secondary market, the 5960P-001 tends to trade in a broad band depending on condition, completeness, and recent service history. WatchCharts’ pre-owned estimate for the 5960P (platinum) was about $54,508 as of December 14, 2025, which is a useful “gravity” number for where typical transactions cluster. Live listings often run higher, with Chrono24 examples commonly appearing around the low-to-mid $50Ks up into the $70Ks+, especially for full sets and sharper condition. Auction results can be punchier still when two bidders decide they both “need” the same watch: Phillips sold a 5960P-001 (year noted as 2008) for $84,420 in New York in 2021.
Translation: the 5960P-001 isn’t a one-number watch. It’s a “range” watch. If your auction example presents clean, with strong case definition, a tidy dial, and full accessories, it has a believable path to outperforming the more conservative index-style estimates. If condition is merely “honest” and the set is incomplete, it can settle closer to the middle of the pack.
The history: why this reference has aged well
The 5960P-001 debuted in the mid-2000s and ran as the original platinum/grey-dial expression for several years (commonly cited as 2006–2013 for the 5960P-001), which places it right in the sweet spot of “modern Patek” that still feels mechanically serious and aesthetically restrained. It’s also a watch that was initially under-appreciated by parts of the market—too big for the ultra-traditionalists, too complicated for the steel-sports crowd—and that’s exactly why it’s become more interesting over time. Once a model is no longer the obvious choice, it’s free to become the smart one.
Auction timing note
The auction ends tonight at 9:08 pm (Tuesday, December 16, 2025).
Current bid: $14,444